EP3141149B1 - Cosmetic applicator, method for obtaining an applicator, and associated applicator assembly - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to an applicator for cosmetic product, a method for obtaining an applicator for cosmetic product, as well as an associated applicator assembly.

An applicator for a known cosmetic product and a method for obtaining an applicator for a known cosmetic product are described in the documents. WO96 / 31143 and FR2895886 .

The mascara applicators can be molded by injection of plastic material, they are then commonly called "plastic brushes". They can also be obtained from fibrous elements held between the longitudinal parts of a twisted spindle; they are then commonly called "fiber brushes". The mascara applicators have a core, or central part, and pins extending radially around said core. The ends of said pins usually form envelopes in a direction of main longitudinal extension of said brush. The pins of the fiber brushes are commonly called "the fibers".

The plastic brushes of the prior art have distributions of pins around the core which allow the production of complex envelopes promoting makeup. Concerning the fiber brushes, such characteristics seem more difficult to obtain, unless recourse is had to operations for cutting the fibers along paths that are difficult to implement.

The invention proposes to produce an applicator provided with fibers which have advantageous characteristics in terms of make-up, while remaining relatively simple to obtain.

Thus the invention relates to an applicator for cosmetic product, comprising a core extending in a direction of main longitudinal extension, called main direction, said core comprising two metal strands twisted, said applicator further comprising a plurality of fibers retained on the core by said twisted strands.

According to the invention, said twisted strands form non-contiguous turns so as to accommodate said fibers, the number and / or nature of the fibers varying from one turn, called the first turn, to the other, called the second turn.

The applicator further comprises a plurality of first turns and a plurality of second turns along said main direction, said plurality of first turns comprises fibers of a first nature, hollow, and fibers of a second nature, full .

The invention therefore provides an applicator whose number and / or nature of the fibers which compose it vary. This has the advantage of offering various makeup effects along the main longitudinal extension direction of said applicator. Thus, the eyelashes of a user are therefore combed and charged effectively.

The use of an applicator provided with fibers also allows a higher density of fibers than with the pins of plastic brushes.

• ladite pluralité de secondes spires comprend uniquement des fibres d'une première nature, creuse,
• l'applicateur de l'invention présente une extrémité proximale se prolongeant par une zone dépourvue de fibre, et une extrémité distale, opposée à ladite extrémité proximale le long de la direction principale,
• ladite pluralité de premières spires définit, à partir de ladite extrémité proximale, une première zone le long de ladite direction principale,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de spires compris dans l'intervalle [8 ; 12], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 10 spires,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de fibres appartenant à l'intervalle [1100 ; 1500], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 1300 fibres,
• ladite première zone comprend un nombre de fibres de première nature, creuse, appartenant à l'intervalle [500 ; 700] et un nombre de fibres de seconde nature, pleine, appartenant à l'intervalle [600 ; 800], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 600 fibres creuses et un nombre de l'ordre de 700 fibres pleines,
• la pluralité de secondes spires est située entre ladite première zone et ladite extrémité distale, définissant ainsi une seconde zone le long de ladite direction principale,
• ladite seconde zone comprend un nombre de spires compris dans l'intervalle [3 ; 5], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 4 spires,
• ladite seconde zone comprend un nombre de fibres appartenant à l'intervalle [150 ; 250], notamment un nombre de l'ordre de 200 fibres,
• ladite première zone présente des spires écartées d'un premier pas, et ladite seconde zone présente des spires écartées d'un second pas, ledit premier pas étant supérieur audit second pas,
• l'applicateur forme une brosse.

According to different embodiments of the invention, which can be taken together or separately:

• said plurality of second turns comprises only fibers of a first nature, hollow,
• the applicator of the invention has a proximal end extending through a zone devoid of fiber, and a distal end, opposite to said proximal end along the main direction,
• said plurality of first turns defines, from said proximal end, a first zone along said main direction,
• said first zone comprises a number of turns included in the interval [8; 12], in particular a number of the order of 10 turns,
• said first zone comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [1100; 1500], in particular a number of the order of 1300 fibers,
• said first zone comprises a number of first nature fibers, hollow, belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of second nature fibers, full, belonging to the interval [600; 800], in particular a number on the order of 600 hollow fibers and a number on the order of 700 solid fibers,
• the plurality of second turns is located between said first zone and said distal end, thus defining a second zone along said main direction,
• said second zone comprises a number of turns included in the interval [3; 5], in particular a number of the order of 4 turns,
• said second zone comprises a number of fibers belonging to the interval [150; 250], in particular a number of the order of 200 fibers,
• said first zone has turns separated by a first step, and said second zone has turns separated by a second step, said first step being greater than said second step,
• the applicator forms a brush.

• une étape de répartition d'une pluralité de fibres entre deux brins métalliques, lesdits deux brins s'étendant selon une direction d'extension longitudinale principale, dite direction principale, la densité et/ou la nature des fibres réparties entre lesdits deux brins variant le long de ladite direction principale,
• une étape de torsion desdits deux brins de manière à former des spires non jointives le long de ladite direction principale de sorte à former une enveloppe sensiblement cylindrique à l'aide des extrémités libres desdites fibres, la force de torsion appliquée audit deux brins étant uniforme le long de ladite direction principale.

The invention also relates to a process for obtaining an applicator for cosmetic product, according to claim 1, comprising:

• a step of distributing a plurality of fibers between two metal strands, said two strands extending in a direction of main longitudinal extension, called main direction, the density and / or the nature of the fibers distributed between said two strands varying the along said main direction,
• a step of twisting said two strands so as to form non-contiguous turns along said main direction so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope using the free ends of said fibers, the twisting force applied to said two strands being uniform the along said main direction.

The applicator thus obtained has the advantage of comprising a complex distribution of fibers by calling upon operations which remain simple to implement.

• le procédé de fabrication selon l'invention comprend, en outre, une étape de découpe des extrémités libres desdites fibres de manière à former des creux au niveau de spires comprenant des fibres d'une première nature, creuse, et des sommets au niveau de spires comprenant des fibres d'une seconde nature, pleine,
• ladite découpe est réalisée à l'aide d'une fraise ondulée par rapport à une direction sensiblement parallèle à ladite direction principale,
• ladite découpe est à commande numérique.

According to different embodiments of the invention, which can be taken together or separately:

• the manufacturing method according to the invention further comprises a step of cutting the free ends of said fibers so as to form hollows at the level of turns comprising fibers of a first nature, hollow, and tops at the level of turns comprising fibers of a second nature, full,
• said cutting is carried out using a wavy cutter with respect to a direction substantially parallel to said main direction,
• said cutting is digitally controlled.

The invention also relates to an applicator assembly for cosmetic product, comprising a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and an applicator as described above, or an applicator obtained according to the method of the invention, adapted to be fixed on the container, so that said applicator is housed inside the reservoir.

The invention will be better understood, and other objects, details, characteristics and advantages thereof will appear more clearly during the detailed explanatory description which will follow, of at least one embodiment of the invention given in title of example purely illustrative and nonlimiting, with reference to the appended diagrammatic figure.

This figure, called figure 1 , schematically illustrates, in front view, an embodiment of an applicator according to the invention.

As illustrated in the figure 1 , the invention relates to an applicator 10 for cosmetic product, comprising a core 12 extending in a main longitudinal extension direction, called main direction and marked X. Here, the applicator 10 is shown with a straight core 12; however it could be provided with a curved core without departing from the scope of the invention.

Said core 12 comprises two twisted metal strands and a plurality of fibers retained on the core 12 by said twisted strands. Said metal strands will preferably be full and cylindrical so as not to disturb the distribution of the fibers on either side of the core 12 during the manufacture of the applicator 10.

According to the invention, said twisted strands form turns 14, 14 ′, 15 which are not contiguous so as to accommodate said fibers. The number and / or the nature of the fibers advantageously vary from one turn, called the first turn 14, 14 ′, to the other, called the second turn 15. The term “non-contiguous turns” means consecutive turns which do not enter not in contact with each other. Advantageously, the density of fibers housed by a said first turn 14, 14 ′ will, here, be less than the density of fibers housed by a said second turn 15.

On the other hand, the term "nature of fibers" means different fibers, in particular in terms of diameter, material, shape - hollow or solid - even color and / or extension; for example fibers of substantially straight radial extension and fibers having branches will be understood as being of different natures. So on the figure 1 , the turns 14, 14 ′, 15 house fibers of different natures, in particular by their shape - hollow or solid.

Varying the types of fibers along said main direction X makes it possible to provide different makeup effects for the user, without the user paying attention.

The applicator 10 of the invention will advantageously comprise a plurality of first turns 14, 14 'and a plurality of second turns 15 along said main direction X. In particular, said plurality of first turns 14, 14' will include fibers of a first nature, hollow, marked A on the figure 1 , and second nature fibers, full, marked B on the same figure 1 . More precisely, the turns marked 14 house hollow fibers A and the turns marked 14 ′, solid fibers B.

The term “hollow fibers” means fibers in the form of tubes, the hollow of which is randomly distributed with respect to the barycenter of the hollow fiber. Said hollow fibers are distributed randomly on either side of the core 12 during the manufacture of such an applicator 10; it is said that such hollow fibers abound on both sides of the core 12. This has the advantage of obtaining interesting makeup effects at the turns 14 which house hollow fibers A.

The “full fibers”, for their part, are regularly distributed on either side of the core 12 during the manufacture of such an applicator 10. This has the advantage of obtaining other makeup effects at the level 14 'turns that house solid fibers B.

By way of example, it will be advantageous to provide hollow fibers A with a diameter of the order of approximately 0.127 mm and solid fibers B with a diameter of the order of approximately 0.102 mm.

It should be noted that the applicator 10 of the invention has a proximal end 17 extending by a zone devoid of fiber 16, and a distal end 18, opposite to said proximal end 17 along the main direction X. The portion of the rod devoid of fibers 16 is also called sleeve 16. This sleeve 16 is advantageously intended for assembling said applicator 10 with a rod, itself linked to a means allowing the assembly to be manipulated by the user, by example a plug (assembly not shown here).

On the other hand, said plurality of first turns 14, 14 ′ defines, from said proximal end 17, a first zone Z1 along said main direction X. Said first zone Z1 will preferably extend over a length l ₁ between 18mm and 22mm, for example over a length l ₁ of the order of 20mm. Said first zone Z1 will also present a number of turns included in the interval [8; 12], in particular 10 turns.

By way of clarification, said first zone Z1 will include a number of fibers belonging to the interval [1100; 1500], in particular 1300 fibers, advantageously composed of a number of hollow fibers A belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of solid fibers B belonging to the interval [600; 800]. It should be noted that particularly advantageous makeup results have been observed with a so-called first zone Z1 comprising 600 hollow fibers A and 700 solid fibers B.

Said plurality of first turns 14, 14 'advantageously comprises a regular alternation of turns 14 housing hollow fibers A and of turns 14' housing solid fibers B. This contributes to the particularly advantageous makeup effects obtained along the main direction X of the applicator 10 of the invention.

The plurality of second turns 15 will be located between said first zone Z1 and said distal end 18, thus defining a second zone Z2 along said main direction X. Said second zone Z2 will preferably extend over a length l ₂ between 4mm and 8mm, for example over a length l ₂ of the order of 6mm. Said second zone Z2 will advantageously include a number of turns included in the interval [3; 5], in particular 4 turns.

By way of clarification, said second zone Z2 will include a number of fibers belonging to the interval [150; 250], in particular 200 fibers, composed entirely of hollow fibers. In other words, the plurality of second turns 15 house only hollow fibers. The hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will have a radial extension less than, or equal to, the radial extension of the other fibers forming the applicator 10; they are therefore more rigid; the distance between the main direction X and the free end of the fibers is called "radial extension".

By way of example, the envelope formed by the hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will have a frustoconical shape with a diameter d 2 in the vicinity of the distal end 18 substantially equal to 4.5 mm, for example. Said second zone Z2 thus has the advantage of being intended for precise makeup, for example for parts which are difficult for the user to access. In addition, said second zone Z2 will make it possible to avoid the presence of residue of cosmetic product at the end of applicator 10. In fact, the hollow fibers of said second zone Z2 will collect the cosmetic product, in particular in the case of mascara, rather than to let it agglomerate at the end of the applicator 10.

Said first zone Z1 will advantageously have turns 14, 14 'spaced apart by a first step p1 , and said second zone Z2 will advantageously have turns 15 spaced apart by a second step p2 , said first step p1 being greater than said second step p2 . In other words, the housings formed by the turns 14, 14 ′ for hollow and solid fibers of the first zone Z1 will be larger than the housings formed by the turns 15 of the second zone Z2. This has the advantage, for the first zone Z1, of being able to accommodate a higher density of fibers.

It should be noted that the applicator 10 of the invention will advantageously form a fiber brush.

The invention also relates to a method for the manufacture of an applicator for cosmetic product, in particular mascara, for example that which has just been described.

The method according to the invention comprises a step of distributing a plurality of fibers between the two strands mentioned above. Advantageously, the density and / or the nature of the fibers distributed between said two strands will vary along said main direction X. There follows a step of twisting said two strands so as to form the non-contiguous turns 14, 14 ′, 15 , in particular so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope using the free ends of said fibers. This substantially cylindrical envelope is an intermediate envelope in obtaining an applicator 10 such as that which has just been described above. She is not represented here.

It should be noted that the torsional force applied to said two strands is uniform along said main direction X. A single twisting step is therefore applied to the strands. In other words, the twist will form turns 14, 14 ', 15 which will have different p1 , p2 pitch depending on the density and / or the nature of the fibers which will be provided between them. In other words, the higher the density of fibers between said two strands, the higher the pitch between the turns obtained after twisting, this being that the torsional force applied to said two strands is uniform along said main direction X. In other words, a high density of fibers forms a high resistance to the uniform torsional force applied along said main direction X. In other words, said torsional force will have more difficulty bending the metal strands in the vicinity of a higher density of fibers than in the vicinity of a lower density of fibers. It is the same when the nature of the fibers distributed between the strands varies along the main direction X. The nature of the fibers can indeed, in the same way as the density, form a more or less high resistance to the torsional force. uniform applied to the strands along the main direction X.

The twisting step has the advantage of creating spaces between the tufts of fibers housed by turns 14, 14 'consecutive, said spaces being larger between turns 14, 14' housing high densities of fibers. The spaces thus created are particularly advantageous for forming zones of cosmetic product loading along the main direction X of the applicator 10 of the invention.

In order to accentuate this effect of loading zones, the manufacturing method according to the invention will further comprise a step of cutting the free ends of said fibers so as to form hollows at the turns 14 comprising the hollow fibers B, and vertices at the level of turns 14 ′ comprising the solid fibers A.

Said cutting will advantageously be carried out, at the level of said first zone Z1, using a wavy cutter, notably wavy relative to a direction substantially parallel to said main direction X (cutter not shown here).

Said cutting can also be provided with numerical control.

• au niveau desdits sommets, un diamètre dA compris entre 6,5mm et 8,5mm, par exemple un diamètre dA de l'ordre de 7,5mm, et
• au niveau desdits creux, un diamètre dB compris entre 4,5mm et 6mm, par exemple un diamètre dB de l'ordre de 5,5mm.

Particularly advantageous makeup effects will be obtained for an envelope formed by vertices and hollows, in particular in the form of a succession of washers along the main direction X, said washers having:

• at said vertices, a diameter dA of between 6.5mm and 8.5mm, for example a diameter dA of the order of 7.5mm, and
• at said recesses, a dB diameter between 4.5mm and 6mm, for example a dB diameter of the order of 5.5mm.

The invention also relates to an applicator assembly (not illustrated here) for cosmetic product, comprising a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and an applicator 10 as described above, or an applicator 10 obtained according to the method of the invention, adapted to be fixed on the container, so that said applicator is housed inside the tank.

It should also be noted that alternative embodiments are of course possible. In particular, it is also conceivable, in additional embodiments, that the applicator of the invention has a number of distinct zones, in terms of density and / or shape of fibers, which is greater than two zones, for example three to four separate areas.

Claims (13)

1. Applicator (10) for cosmetic product, comprising a core (12) extending according to a main longitudinal extension direction, called main direction (X), said core (12) comprising two twisted metal strands, said applicator (10) further comprising a plurality of fibres retained on the core (12) by said twisted strands, said applicator (10) being characterised by the fact that said twisted strands form non-joining spires (14, 14', 15) so as to house said fibres, the number and/or the nature of the fibres varying from one spire, called first spire (14, 14'), to the other, called second spire (15), the applicator comprising a plurality of first spires (14, 14') and a plurality of second spires (15) along said main direction (X), said plurality of first spires (14, 14') comprises fibres of a first hollow (A) nature, and fibres of a second solid (B) nature.
2. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said plurality of second spires (15) only comprises fibres of a first hollow nature.
3. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, presenting a proximal end (17) extending by a zone (16) devoid of fibres, and a distal end (18), opposite said proximal end (17) along the main direction (X), said plurality of first spires (14, 14') defining, from said proximal end (17), a first zone (Z1) along said main direction (X).
4. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of spires (14, 14') comprised in the interval [8; 12].
5. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 3 or 4, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of fibres belonging to the interval [1100; 1500].
6. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said first zone (Z1) comprises a number of fibres of the first hollow (A) nature, belonging to the interval [500; 700] and a number of fibres of the second solid (B) nature, belonging to the interval [600; 800].
7. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 3 to 6, wherein the plurality of second spires (15) is located between said first zone (Z1) and said distal end (18), thus defining a second zone (Z2) along said main direction (X).
8. Applicator (10) according to the preceding claim, wherein said second zone (Z2) comprises a number of spires (15) comprised in the interval [3; 5].
9. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 7 or 8, wherein said second zone (Z2) comprises a number of fibres belonging to the interval [150; 250].
10. Applicator (10) according to any one of claims 7 to 9, wherein said first zone (Z1) presents spires (14, 14') spaced apart from a first step (p1), and said second zone (Z2) presents spires (15) spaced apart from a second step (p2), said first step (p1) being greater than said second step (p2).
11. Method for obtaining an applicator (10) for cosmetic product according to claim 1, comprising:

    a) a step of distributing a plurality of fibres between two metal strands, said two strands extending according to a main longitudinal extension direction, called main direction (X), the density and/or the nature of the fibres distributed between said two strands varying along said main direction (X),

    b) a step of twisting said two strands so as to form non-joining spires (14, 14', 15) along said main direction so as to form a substantially cylindrical envelope using free ends of said fibres, the twisting force applied to said two strands being uniform along said main direction (X).
12. Manufacturing method according to the preceding claim, further comprising a step of cutting free ends of said fibres so as to form cavities at the level of spires (14) comprising fibres of a first hollow (A) nature, and peaks at the level of spires (14') comprising fibres of a second solid (B) nature.
13. Applicator assembly for cosmetic product, comprising:

    - a container comprising a body forming a reservoir intended to contain the cosmetic product, and

    - an applicator (10) according to any one of claims 1 to 10, adapted to be fixed onto the container, such that said applicator (10) is housed inside the reservoir.

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