EP2953499B1 - Timepiece, and method for producing such a timepiece - Google Patents

Description

Technical area

The present invention relates to a timepiece, for example and without limitation a dial or an oscillating weight. The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a piece.

State of the art

Watches, especially luxury watches, made of metal, are often set with precious, semi-precious or synthetic stones.

Examples of precious stones include, for example, and without limitation diamond, sapphire, emerald and ruby. Examples of semi-precious stones include, for example and without limitation, spinel, amethyst, tourmaline, citrine and quartz.

Precious or semi-precious stones are often transparent.

Their table, that is to say the upper part of the stone, can have different shapes, for example it can be round, oval, square, heart-shaped, etc. These stones are cut in general so as to optimize their brilliance.

The ratio between the total width of the stone and its height is very important: for example a stone too flat or too thick causes a strong loss of brightness. The chosen ratio also depends on the type of stone, especially its refractive index of the material. However, all the aforementioned usual stones have a relationship between height and width from 65% to 80%. The height thus represents 65% to 80% of the width of the stone.

In this context a stone is defined as flat if the ratio between its height and width is less than 50%.

The use of flat stones, for example so-called Russian sizes, has been gradually removed from watchmaking for decades. Indeed the flat stones have glare defects, which are manifested in various ways and which generally involve a loss of gloss on an outer or inner part of the stone. One of these defects is named "fish eye".

To maximize the brilliance of watches and jewelery set, the dimensions of the stone in front view (that is to say the dimensions of the table) are maximized. As a result, due to the proportional constraint (65% to 80%), the thickness of the stone, and therefore its support, is greater. For this reason, in heavily set pieces available on the market, the stones are generally wider in timepieces such as the bracelet or the bezel, which have thickness constraints less severe than the dial.

Other watches, also available on the market, include flat gems, for example having a ratio between height and width of 40% to 45%. However, these stones have a much worse brilliance than non-flat stones.

Transparent stones called "colored" or colored, which can be precious, semi-precious, natural or synthetic, have the distinction of not returning the full spectrum of light, but only part of the spectrum in the visible field. Each colored stone thus has a characteristic spectrum of response to light stimulation.

Unlike stones that are not colored (or "colorless" stones), for which it is important to maximize the intensity and distribution of the bright return, so the gloss, for colored stones it is also important to maximize the color stone. As a rule, the more colored the stone, the more it is sought.

To have the most colorful stone possible, it is also important to maximize its height relative to its width. The colored stones therefore almost always have a classic size.

The setting of precious or semi-precious stones is historically made on the basis of precious metals such as gold, platinum or silver. It is also nowadays spilled on steel or brass, and sometimes done on titanium or aluminum.

It is common to apply titanium or aluminum after crimping to provide corrosion protection and maximize gloss.

In particular, titanium or aluminum supports are used to crimp pieces having conventional dimensions (ie stones which are not flat); the contrast in the brilliance of stones and the appearance of titanium or aluminum highlights the stones. Such titanium or aluminum supports have a significant thickness to accentuate the brilliance of the stones.

US2009229307 describes a timepiece, for example a watch case, comprising a support in titanium or aluminum with openings for receiving stones.

FR2855947 relates to a method of crimping in a metal element, for example titanium. A tool is applied to the surface of the metal piece to form a lip on the laminate of a stone. This lip helps to immobilize the stone in its hole. With the tool it is also possible to form impressions on the surface of the metal part, which may have facets. The imprints located adjacent to the stones allow to retain them, the other imprints have the function of returning the light.

EP2327323 relates to a decorative piece, for example a timepiece, comprising stones and a device for fixing the stones relative to each other, this fixing device comprising a single base for attaching the stones to each other. compared to others. The single base comprises at least two layers, the first of which may comprise titanium and / or aluminum.

FR2889423 relates to a removable jewel that can be used for the creation or modification of a final jewel, without the help of a jeweler. This jewel comprises a mobile device, consisting of a sleeve set with one or more stone (s) or pearl (s), and having an opening in which can be introduced a cap, which is provided with a spring. The bushing and the cap can be made of titanium or anodized aluminum.

WO2008102957 a decorative stone comprising a plurality of layers, including: an aluminum support layer (plating) formed on a rear surface of the stone body, a hot melt portion formed on a lower surface of the aluminum support layer, a coating layer formed on an upper surface of the stone body and which consists of a printing ink absorption fixing agent, a UV coating layer, and a paint layer.

JPS57101782 relates to a method of manufacturing a dial from a titanium plate.

WO9821630 relates to a wristwatch comprising a decorative ring that can be made of precious metal, stainless steel
but also anodized aluminum colored to give a distinctive sign to the entire wristwatch. This ring may include a diamond or ruby installed at positions of 3, 6, 9 and 12 hours.

EP2106716 relates to a portable object comprising at least one decorative transparent or semi-transparent element, having the shape and appearance of a gemstone, arranged and held on a support.

However, there is a need for finer timepieces, for example and without limitation dials, masses oscillating, needles, etc., set with colored stones, but in which the reduction of thickness of the stones is not detrimental to their coloring.

In other words, there is a need for a method of crimping thin pieces with colored stones.

In this context the term "thin" indicates a thickness of less than 1 mm, preferably less than 0.8 mm, for example 0.6 mm.

Brief summary of the invention

An object of the present invention is therefore to provide a timepiece free from at least some of the limitations of known parts.

Another object of the invention is to propose a timepiece set with colored stones and having a small thickness, in which the stones are as colorful as possible.

According to the invention, these objects are achieved in particular by means of a timepiece according to claim 1 and a timepiece manufacturing method according to claim 11.

• au moins une pierre transparente colorée,
• un support comprenant au moins une ouverture pour recevoir cette pierre.

The timepiece according to the invention comprises:

• at least one colored transparent stone,
• a support comprising at least one opening for receiving this stone.

The ratio between height and width of this stone may be less than about 50%, that is to say that the colored transparent stone is a flat stone. Advantageously, the support is made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum: in fact these metals have a good optical behavior because they do not reflect all the light.

Supports made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum are known. Their use in combination with flat stones is however unexpected, because flat stones are generally considered less beautiful, and have been removed from watchmaking for decades.

In particular, the use of transparent colored flat stones is surprising, because there is a persistent prejudice in watchmaking and jewelery that it would not be possible to obtain good coloring effects with flat stones.

All the more reason, the use of flat and colored stones in combination with a support in titanium or aluminum is totally unexpected, because even if the person skilled in the art envisaged such a combination, he would expect a priori to obtain a piece in which the flat stones are not very brilliant, suffer from defect in fish-eye, and a bad contrast with the support.

Unexpectedly, however, tests have shown that transparent colored flat stones in combination with a support made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum allow a significant coloration of the stones despite a reduced thickness because the color given to the support by the influence anodizing process the color of the flat stones, which can be strengthened and therefore improved.

The invention thus starts from the observation that the brilliance and coloring of a stone must be evaluated according to the support on which it is mounted. A stone considered very beautiful when isolated can lose its qualities on an unsuitable support; conversely, and As used in the invention, a stone considered of little value in insulation can be remarkable on a particular support.

The choice of a support in anodized aluminum or anodized titanium makes it possible to adapt the color and / or the reflectance of the support to the type of stone which one wishes to crimp, in order to obtain a very brilliant and / or very even when the stones used do not present these qualities alone.

Indeed, if at least a portion of the stones has the same color as that given to the support by the anodizing process, part of the light passes through the stone to the metal below and is then reflected. The coloration of these light rays is obtained by subtracting certain wavelengths through the colored stone, but also during the reflection on the metal. The coloration of the stone is reinforced by the support.

Therefore, one of the advantages of this invention is the obtaining of a significant coloration of colored transparent stones despite a reduced thickness of the support (less than 1 mm, preferably less than 0.8 mm, for example 0.6 mm).

In a preferred variant the surfaces defining the opening for receiving the colored transparent stone are also anodized. In another preferred embodiment, the crimping elements, for example claws or grains, are anodized or of the same color as the support.

Indeed, if the stone is of a first color, the support is of a second color chosen so as to reinforce this first color. In a preferred embodiment, this first color is equal to the second color.

In other words there is a synergy between the first and the second color to add the color of the support to that of transparent colored stones. If several stones are present in the support, this synergistic effect also makes it possible to improve the homogeneity of the coloration of the part.

Indeed, in the case where transparent colored stones, preferably round and of different diameters, are "snow-set", that is to say closely spaced between them and with unequal sizes, it is very difficult to homogenize the color of the stones, some being lighter or darker or of different coloring. The anodizing of the support makes it possible to add a coloring to the transparent colored stones and thus to improve the color homogeneity of the piece.

In another variant, it is also possible to achieve a shift or a voluntary relative opposition of the colors of the support with that of the colored transparent stone.

In another variant it is also possible to have several transparent stones of different colors and / or different colors of the support for these stones.

Another advantage of the invention is the possibility of using large stones in a reduced thickness environment, which would not be possible for a stone that is not flat. This advantage is also independent of the shape of the stone, which can be round or any other form, even complex (chopsticks, canopy etc.).

In a preferred embodiment the opening is through, that is to say, it completely through the support.

Through openings under each stone also give a part of transparency to the room. This is all the more the case that the colored through stones being flat, a part of the light coming from the end opposite to the table crosses the opening and thus illuminates the stones from behind.

Through openings under each stone also allow a "stained glass" effect of the room, which allows to keep a color as well when the light comes from front than from behind the crimped part.

Finally through openings under each stone allow a good homogeneity of the color of the support by anodization and cleaning of the treatment products after the coloring of the support.

In a preferred embodiment the timepiece according to the invention is constituted by a dial. In another variant it is constituted by an oscillating mass.

• réalisation dans un support d'au moins une ouverture,
• sertissage d'une pierre transparente colorée dans cette ouverture, cette pierre transparente colorée ayant un rapport entre hauteur et largeur inférieur à 50%,
• anodisation du support.

The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a timepiece comprising the following steps:

• production in a support of at least one opening,
• crimping a colored transparent stone in this opening, this colored transparent stone having a ratio between height and width less than 50%,
• anodizing the support.

Brief description of the figures

• La figure 1 illustre un exemple d'une vue par le dessus d'un mode de réalisation de la pièce selon l'invention.
• La figure 2 illustre un exemple d'une coupe d'un mode de réalisation de la pièce selon l'invention.
• La figure 3 illustre un exemple d'une coupe d'un mode de réalisation du support de la pièce selon l'invention.
• La figure 4 illustre un exemple d'une coupe d'un mode de réalisation de la pierre transparente colorée de la pièce selon l'invention.

Examples of implementation of the invention are indicated in the description illustrated by the appended figures in which:

• The figure 1 illustrates an example of a view from above of an embodiment of the part according to the invention.
• The figure 2 illustrates an example of a section of an embodiment of the part according to the invention.
• The figure 3 illustrates an example of a section of an embodiment of the support of the part according to the invention.
• The figure 4 illustrates an example of a section of an embodiment of the colored transparent stone of the part according to the invention.

Example (s) of embodiment (s) of the invention

In the following description given by way of example, reference will be made, for simplicity, to a dial. The invention however is not limited to such a room. The invention is also not limited to watchmaking, but also includes, for example, jewelery pieces.

The figure 1 illustrates an example of a view from above of a dial 1 according to the invention.

• au moins une pierre transparente colorée 10,
• un support 20 comprenant au moins une ouverture 200, visible sur la figure 2, pour recevoir cette pierre 10.

The timepiece 1 according to the invention comprises:

• at least one colored transparent stone 10,
• a support 20 comprising at least one opening 200, visible on the figure 2 , to receive this stone 10.

Advantageously, the ratio between the height h and the width L of the stone 10, as illustrated in FIG. figure 4 , is less than 50%, that is, the colored transparent stone is a flat stone. Advantageously, the support 20 is made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum. Anodizing is generally performed after crimping and polishing of part 1.

Transparent colored flat stones 10 in combination with a support made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum 20 allow a significant coloration of the stones 10 despite a thickness e of the support 20 (visible on the Fig. 3 ) reduced because the color given to the support 20 by the anodizing process influences the color of the flat stones 10, which is thus enhanced and therefore improved.

Indeed, if at least a portion of the stones 10 has the same color as that given to the support 20 by the anodizing process, part of the light passes through the stone to the metal below and is then reflected. The coloration of these light rays is thus obtained by subtraction of certain wavelengths through the colored stone 10, but also during the reflection on the metal of the support 20. The coloring of the stone 10 is thus reinforced by the support 20.

Therefore, one of the advantages of this invention is to obtain a significant coloration of the colored transparent stones 10 despite a reduced thickness of the support 20 (less than 1 mm, preferably less than 0.8 mm, for example 0.6 mm), or any case a reduced depth of the openings in which the stones are crimped.

The colored transparent stone 10, visible on the figure 4 , has a table 16, that is to say, an upper part of the stone, which can have different shapes, for example round, oval, square, heart-shaped, etc. The ratio between the height of the yoke 12 and that of the crown 14 depends on the type of size of the stone 10.

In a preferred variant, illustrated on the figure 3 , the surfaces 26, 27 and 28 side and the optional bottom of the opening 200 which receives the colored transparent stone are also anodized and colored. In a preferred variant, the crimping elements 300, visible on the figure 2 , for example claws or grains, are anodized and of the same color as the support 20.

Indeed, if the stone 10 is of a first color, the support 20 is of a second color chosen so as to reinforce this first color. In a preferred embodiment, this first color is equal to the second color. If several stones are present in the support, this synergistic effect also makes it possible to improve the homogeneity of the coloration of the workpiece 1.

In the example of the figure 1 , where the colored transparent stones 10 are round, of different diameters and "set snow", that is to say, closer together in them, it is very difficult to homogenize the color of the stones, some being lighter or more dark or of different colors. The difference in size of the stones in a snow setting thus produces different color impressions.

The anodization of the support 20 makes it possible to add coloring to the colored transparent stones 10 and thus to improve the color homogeneity of the part 1.

In the variant of the figure 2 the opening 200 is through, that is to say, it completely crosses the support 20. In this case, the stones have a height h substantially equal to the thickness e of the support 20, as visible on the figure 2 .

Through openings 200 under each stone allow the dyeing process to penetrate the surfaces 26, 27, 28 of the support 20 under the stones 10. They also make it possible to give a part of transparency to the piece 1. Through openings 200 under each stone 10 also allow a "stained glass" effect of the piece 1, which makes it possible to keep a color as well when the light comes from front than from behind the crimped part.

Finally through openings 200 allow a good homogeneity of the color of the support by anodization and cleaning of the treatment products after the coloring of the support.

Stones set in blind openings can however also be used.

Reference numbers used in the figures

1

Timepiece

10

Colorful transparent stone

12

Cylinder head

14

Crowned

16

Table

20

Support

26

First surface defining the opening

27

Second surface defining the opening

28

Third surface defining the opening

200

Opening

300

Crimping element

e

Thickness of the support

h

Height of colorful transparent stone

The

Width of the colored transparent stone

Claims (10)

1. A timepiece part (1) comprising:

   - at least one colored transparent stone (10); and

   - a mount (20) comprising at least one aperture (200) for receiving said colored transparent stone (10);

   - said mount (20) is made of anodized titanium or anodized aluminum said colored transparent stone (10) being a cut semiprecious or precious, natural or synthetic stone

   characterized in that

   - the ratio between the height (h) and width (L) of said colored transparent stone (10) is lower than 50%; and in that

   said aperture (200) is a through-aperture.
2. The part as claimed in claim 1, the surfaces (26, 27, 28) defining said aperture also being anodized.
3. The part as claimed in either one of claims 1 or 2, comprising setting elements (300) that are anodized or the same color as said mount (20).
4. The part as claimed in one of the preceding claims, said mount (20) having a thickness (e) smaller than 1 mm, preferably smaller than 0.8 mm, for example 0.6 mm.
5. The part as claimed in one of the preceding claims, said colored transparent stone (10) being a first color, said mount (20) being a second color chosen so as to reinforce said first color.
6. The part as claimed in the preceding claim, the first color being equal to the second color.
7. The timepiece part as claimed in one of claims 1 to 6, consisting of a dial.
8. The timepiece part as claimed in one of claims 1 to 6, consisting of an oscillating weight.
9. The part as claimed in one of the preceding claims, said colored transparent stone (10) comprising a table (16), said height (h) being the maximum dimension of said colored transparent stone (10) which is perpendicular to said table (16), said length (L) being the maximum dimension of said colored transparent stone (10) which is perpendicular to said height (h).
10. A method for manufacturing a timepiece part as claimed in one of claims 1 to 9, comprising the following steps:

    - producing in a mount (20) at least one through-aperture (200);

    - setting a colored transparent stone (10) into said through-aperture (200), said colored transparent stone (10) having a ratio between its height (h) and width (L) lower than 50%; and

    - anodizing said mount (20).

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