EP4442152A1 - Support for a timepiece or piece of jewellery comprising the support and a decorative insert - Google Patents

Abstract

Support (20) for a timepiece or piece of jewelry, the timepiece or piece of jewelry comprising the support (20) and a decorative insert (10) set on the support (20), the support (20) comprising: - a front face (22), - a rear face (23), - at least one through housing (21) provided to receive the decorative insert (10), comprising: - a display opening (211) provided on the front face (22) to make the decorative insert (10) visible to an observer, - an insertion opening (212) provided on the rear face (23) to introduce the decorative insert (10) into the through housing (21), - a bearing surface (24) provided to position the decorative insert (10), characterized in that the support (20) comprises a portion to be set (25) intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert (10) positioned against the bearing surface (24), to make a setting of the decorative insert (10).

Description

Technical field of the invention

The present invention relates generally to watchmaking or jewelry, and in particular the present invention relates to supports for watchmaking or jewelry pieces and intended to receive a decorative element such as a decorative insert, a precious, semi-precious, fine stone, a gem or any other decorative piece added. Such a support may be called a bezel and the decorative element may be set on the support.

State of the art

In the prior art of timepieces or jewelry, we know for example the document US1092587A which discloses a support with a tab to fold over a pavilion of a gem to be set. On the other hand, this system can have drawbacks, such as hiding the pavilion, which can affect the brilliance. It can also be noted that the tab to fold must not have an elastic return, otherwise the gem could be poorly set and move. It is therefore necessary to choose a very ductile material with the lowest possible elastic deformation. It can also be noted that the manufacturing process requires starting from a sheet, which can limit the shapes of the support.

Disclosure of the invention

An aim of the present invention is to address the drawbacks of the prior art mentioned above and in particular, first of all, to propose a support for a decorative insert which is easy to manufacture, and/or which affects the shine of the decorative insert as little as possible, and/or which ensures optimum repeatability of the position and orientation of the decorative insert within the support, and/or which ensures high quality crimping, i.e. with a robust and/or aesthetic fixing of the decorative insert on the support.

• une face avant, agencée pour être visible pour un utilisateur,
• une face arrière,
• au moins un logement traversant agencé entre la face avant et la face arrière et prévu pour recevoir et/ou centrer l'insert décoratif, comprenant :
  • une ouverture d'exposition prévue ou agencée ou débouchant sur la face avant pour rendre l'insert décoratif visible à l'observateur,
  • une ouverture d'insertion prévue ou agencée ou débouchant sur la face arrière pour introduire l'insert décoratif dans le logement traversant,
  • une portée prévue pour positionner l'insert décoratif dans le logement traversant,

caractérisé en ce que le support comprend une portion à sertir, de préférence depuis la face arrière, et prévue pour être déformée plastiquement sur l'insert décoratif positionné contre la portée, pour réaliser un serti de l'insert décoratif.For this, a first aspect of the invention relates to a support for a timepiece or piece of jewelry comprising the support and a decorative insert, such as a gem, set on the support, the support comprising:

• a front face, arranged to be visible to a user,
• a back side,
• at least one through housing arranged between the front face and the rear face and intended to receive and/or center the decorative insert, comprising:
  • a display opening provided or arranged or opening onto the front face to make the decorative insert visible to the observer,
  • an insertion opening provided or arranged or opening on the rear face to introduce the decorative insert into the through housing,
  • a scope provided for positioning the decorative insert in the through housing,

characterized in that the support comprises a portion to be crimped, preferably from the rear face, and intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert positioned against the bearing surface, to produce a crimping of the decorative insert.

The portion to be crimped is intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert, i.e. irreversibly, so that the fixing of the decorative insert on the support is reliable and robust: there is no risk of relative movements between the support and the decorative insert. It can also be noted that the portion to be crimped is arranged on the side of the rear face, so that the user will not see it, and the appearance of the front face is independent of the portion to be crimped and the crimping carried out, which offers great freedom of designs and/or decorations.

According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may be arranged between the exposure opening and the insertion opening. According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may be arranged between the exposure opening and the insertion opening. realization, the portion to be crimped can be arranged on the periphery or around the bearing surface and/or the decorative insert.

According to one embodiment, the support may comprise a support surface arranged on the side of the rear face and intended to provide end-of-crimping support to a crimping tool intended to deform the portion to be crimped on the decorative insert. The support surface may thus serve as a crimping end-of-stroke stop, which makes it possible to better control the forces applied to the decorative insert. Indeed, at the end of the stroke, it is the support itself which directly absorbs the forces applied by the crimping tool, via the support surface, and these forces do not pass through the decorative insert. Such an implementation also makes it possible to properly guarantee the dimension chains, by reducing geometric dispersions, since the support surface and the portion to be crimped are provided on a single and unique part, namely the support.

According to one embodiment, the support surface can be arranged to be hidden from the user. Typically, since the portion to be crimped is accessible from the rear face, the support surface is advantageously designed to be invisible to the user. In particular, it is understood that the crimping tool does not come into contact with the front face. The latter therefore does not undergo any deformation or matting.

According to one embodiment, the support surface can be arranged on the periphery of the portion to be crimped, and preferably around the portion to be crimped.

According to one embodiment, the portion to be crimped may comprise a lip comprising a central face, preferably cylindrical, and an external face, preferably conical or frustoconical, adjacent to the bearing surface.

According to one embodiment, the support surface can be arranged on the rear face.

In one embodiment, the front face may include a decorated surface intended to be visible to the user and may include a decorative finish or decorative termination such as a surface coating, or diamond plating, or polishing, or engraving. The decorated surface is thus located opposite the insertion opening and the portion to be crimped, the decorated surface is not exposed to the crimping tool, and specific terminations may be provided and/or the appearance of the decorated surface may be ensured not to be affected by the crimping of the portion to be crimped. In any event, once crimping has been performed, it is not necessary to provide a termination operation on the front face.

• la surface d'appui peut présenter une première surface projetée,
• la face avant (c'est-à-dire la surface décorée) peut présenter une deuxième surface projetée,

et l'aire de la deuxième surface projetée peut être supérieure à l'aire de la première surface projetée, de préférence l'aire de la deuxième surface projetée peut être supérieure à 150% de la valeur de l'aire de la première surface projetée, et de préférence l'aire de la deuxième surface projetée peut être supérieure à 200% de la valeur de l'aire de la première surface projetée. Selon la mise en oeuvre ci-dessus, la surface décorée peut être notablement plus grande que la surface d'appui, si bien que les pressions de contact ou de Hertz (en fin de course de sertissage, entre d'une part l'outil de sertissage et la surface d'appui et d'autre part entre la surface décorée et un posage) seront les plus fortes du côté de la surface d'appui. En conséquence, un éventuel marquage provoqué par un effort de sertissage aura lieu du côté de la surface d'appui, et la surface décorée restera non marquée.According to one embodiment, in a crimping direction and in a plane normal to the crimping direction:

• the support surface may have a first projected surface,
• the front face (i.e. the decorated surface) may have a second projected surface,

and the area of the second projected surface may be greater than the area of the first projected surface, preferably the area of the second projected surface may be greater than 150% of the value of the area of the first projected surface, and preferably the area of the second projected surface may be greater than 200% of the value of the area of the first projected surface. According to the above implementation, the decorated surface may be significantly larger than the bearing surface, so that the contact or Hertz pressures (at the end of the crimping stroke, between on the one hand the crimping tool and the bearing surface and on the other hand between the decorated surface and a fixture) will be the highest on the bearing surface side. Consequently, any marking caused by a crimping force will take place on the bearing surface side, and the decorated surface will remain unmarked.

According to one embodiment, the setting of the decorative insert may be a closed setting. Such a setting completely surrounds the decorative insert with a lip or a thin thickness of material, without hiding or concealing any the rear part of the decorative insert (e.g. the pavilion of a gem) is significantly affected, so that the shine is little affected.

According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may comprise a lip arranged at the periphery of the bearing surface and intended to be folded down in whole or in part on the decorative insert. Such a folding lip allows a simple crimping method with a simple crimping tool.

According to one embodiment, the lip may comprise recesses or notches. Such an implementation provides great freedom of design and/or manufacturing. The crimping forces can be reduced.

According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may comprise a plurality of deformable petal-shaped portions, arranged on the periphery of the bearing surface and designed to be folded over the decorative insert. The crimping forces may be reduced.

According to one embodiment, once folded over the decorative insert, at least two adjacent deformable portions (e.g. petals) of the plurality of deformable portions may be at least partially joined. The appearance at the end of crimping is of high quality.

According to one embodiment, the portion to be crimped may comprise at least a portion of the side wall of the through-housing to be pushed back and/or sheared by the crimping tool. In such a case, the crimping tool may shear and/or incise material of the through-housing to press it and/or fold it over the decorative insert.

According to one embodiment, the decorative insert may comprise a rear undercut portion intended to be arranged on the rear face side, and the crimping portion may be intended to be crimped against the rear undercut portion.

According to one embodiment, the support may comprise at least one centering surface provided for centering the decorative insert on the opening. display. Such a centering surface improves the perceived quality by providing precise positioning between the support (its decorated surface, its external periphery) and the decorative insert (the crown or table of a cut gem).

According to one embodiment, the decorative insert may comprise a flank, for example cylindrical, such as a foliate or a roundel, and the centering surface may be provided to receive the flank.

According to one embodiment, the crimping portion may be arranged between the bearing surface and the insertion opening and/or the rear face.

According to one embodiment, the bearing surface may comprise a contact surface with the decorative insert which is continuous. The contact surface may be flat or even conical or truncated. A shape complementary to that of the decorative insert may be provided in order to have surface contact between the support and the decorative insert, in order to avoid any concentration of stresses on the decorative insert.

According to one embodiment, the span may comprise a contact surface with the decorative insert which is discontinuous. Slots or clearances may be provided, for example to free the decorative insert from the support in order to maximize the passage of light, visibility or even exposure of the decorative insert.

• au moins un support selon le premier aspect, et
• au moins un insert décoratif agencé dans le logement traversant contre la portée, la portion à sertir étant sertie ou rabattue sur l'insert décoratif.

A second aspect of the invention may relate to a timepiece or piece of jewelry, comprising:

• at least one support according to the first aspect, and
• at least one decorative insert arranged in the through housing against the bearing surface, the portion to be crimped being crimped or folded over the decorative insert.

• se munir d'un support selon le premier aspect,
• optionnellement, poser la face avant du support sur un posage de sertissage, étant entendu que la face avant peut être enrobée ou protégée par une pièce ou un enrobage intermédiaire,
• introduire un insert décoratif dans le logement traversant par l'ouverture d'insertion,
• déformer plastiquement la portion à sertir contre l'insert décoratif.

A third aspect of the invention may relate to a method of manufacturing a timepiece or piece of jewelry, comprising the following steps:

• provide a support according to the first aspect,
• optionally, place the front face of the support on a crimping fixture, it being understood that the front face can be coated or protected by an intermediate part or coating,
• insert a decorative insert into the through-housing through the insertion opening,
• plastically deform the portion to be crimped against the decorative insert.

According to one embodiment, the step of plastically deforming the portion to be crimped may be performed by introducing a crimping tool into the through-housing through the insertion opening, the crimping tool possibly comprising a crimping interface provided to come into contact with the portion to be crimped and to plastically deform the portion to be crimped.

According to one embodiment, the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped can end with a mechanical stop of the crimping tool on the support.

According to one embodiment, the crimping tool may comprise a contact interface intended to cooperate with the decorative insert, and the manufacturing method may comprise a step consisting of positioning the decorative insert relative to the support with the contact interface, at least before or during the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped. Typically, the contact interface may be floating relative to a working portion (the crimping interface) of the tool intended to fold down the portion to be crimped. Thus, the contact interface may come into contact with the decorative element before the rest of the crimping tool in order to properly center the decorative element, and the contact interface may then slide relative to the rest of the crimping tool, during the crimping operation.

According to one embodiment, the contact interface may be provided to grip the decorative insert, the manufacturing method comprising a step of gripping the decorative insert by the crimping tool, and the step of inserting the decorative insert into the through-housing may be performed by the crimping tool. It is even possible to provide to position the decorative insert on the contact interface, by holding it in place for example by suction, to then insert it into the support automatically.

According to one embodiment, the manufacturing method may comprise a step of relative movement between the contact interface and the crimping interface, at least during the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped.

According to one embodiment, the crimping tool can follow a linear movement, preferably coaxial with an axial direction of the through housing.

According to one embodiment, the step of deforming the portion to be crimped can be carried out in a single action and/or a single movement of the crimping tool.

According to one embodiment, the crimping interface may include recesses, clearances or portions out of reach of the portion to be crimped, and the step of plastically deforming the portion to be crimped may effect, along the portion to be crimped, a heterogeneous or discontinuous deformation of the portion to be crimped.

• un posage de sertissage, prévu pour recevoir le support selon le premier aspect,
• un outil de sertissage comprenant :
  • une interface de sertissage prévue pour entrer en contact avec la portion à sertir du support selon le premier aspect et pour déformer plastiquement la portion à sertir,
  • une interface de contact, mobile par rapport à l'interface de sertissage et prévue pour recevoir et maintenir l'insert décoratif sur l'outil de sertissage avant une opération de sertissage,
  dans lequel l'outil de sertissage comprend un dégagement interne prévu pour éviter tout contact direct entre l'interface de sertissage de l'outil de sertissage et l'insert décoratif.

A fourth aspect of the invention may relate to a crimping tool, provided for implementing the manufacturing method according to the third aspect, comprising:

• a crimping installation, intended to receive the support according to the first aspect,
• a crimping tool comprising:
  • a crimping interface provided to contact the crimping portion of the support according to the first aspect and to plastically deform the crimping portion,
  • a contact interface, movable relative to the crimping interface and intended to receive and hold the decorative insert on the crimping tool prior to a crimping operation,
  wherein the crimping tool includes an internal clearance provided to prevent direct contact between the crimping interface of the crimping tool and the decorative insert.

According to one embodiment, the crimping tool may comprise a contact interface provided to cooperate with the decorative insert and position the latter relative to the support at least during the plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped, and in which the contact interface may be movable, for example sliding, relative to the crimping interface.

Description of figures

• [fig. 1] représente une vue en coupe d'un support selon la présente invention ;
• [fig. 2] représente une vue de côté d'un insert décoratif pouvant être reçu dans le support de la figure 1 ;
• [fig. 3] représente l'insert décoratif de la figure 2 reçu dans le support de la figure 1 ;
• [fig. 4] représente l'ensemble de la figure 3 positionné dans un outillage de sertissage, avant une opération de sertissage pour fixer l'insert décoratif de la figure 2 reçu dans le support de la figure 1 ;
• [fig. 5] représente l'ensemble de la figure 3 positionné dans l'outillage de sertissage après une opération de sertissage ;
• [fig. 6] représente l'ensemble de la figure 3 après l'opération de sertissage ;
• [fig. 7] représente une vue en perspective de devant de l'ensemble de la figure 3 après l'opération de sertissage ;
• [fig. 8] représente une vue en perspective de derrière de l'ensemble de la figure 3 après l'opération de sertissage.

Other features and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent upon reading the following detailed description of an embodiment of the invention given as a non-limiting example and illustrated by the appended drawings, in which:

• [ fig. 1 ] represents a sectional view of a support according to the present invention;
• [ fig. 2 ] represents a side view of a decorative insert that can be received in the support of the figure 1 ;
• [ fig. 3 ] represents the decorative insert of the figure 2 received in the support of the figure 1 ;
• [ fig. 4 ] represents the whole of the figure 3 positioned in a crimping tool, prior to a crimping operation to secure the decorative insert of the figure 2 received in the support of the figure 1 ;
• [ fig. 5 ] represents the whole of the figure 3 positioned in the crimping tool after a crimping operation;
• [ fig. 6 ] represents the whole of the figure 3 after the crimping operation;
• [ fig. 7 ] represents a perspective view from the front of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation;
• [ fig. 8 ] represents a perspective view from behind of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation.

Detailed description of an embodiment

The present invention provides a support 20 ( figure 1 ) designed to receive a decorative insert 10 ( figure 2 ), in order to form a decorative assembly that can be integrated into a timepiece or piece of jewelry. The decorative insert 10 is preferably a gem 10 or a cut precious stone 10 that can be of any shape. The support 20 can be a setting, a bezel, a dial, a case middle, a metal bracelet link or any other jewelry or watch component capable of receiving a stone. The support 20 is preferably made of a ductile material such as gold, platinum, brass or steel. figure 1 represents a sectional view of a support 20 provided for receiving and fixing a decorative insert 10 shown figure 2 .

• une face avant 22, agencée pour être visible pour un utilisateur,
• une face arrière 23, agencée à l'opposé de la face avant 22,
• un logement traversant 21 agencé entre la face avant 22 et la face arrière 23 et prévu pour recevoir et centrer l'insert décoratif 10 dans le support 20, comprenant :
  • une ouverture d'exposition 211 prévue sur la face avant 22 pour rendre l'insert décoratif 10 visible à l'observateur,
  • une ouverture d'insertion 212 prévue sur la face arrière 23 pour introduire l'insert décoratif 10 dans le logement traversant 21,
  • une portée 24 prévue pour positionner l'insert décoratif 10 dans le logement traversant 21,
• une portion à sertir 25, accessible pour un outil de sertissage depuis la face arrière 23 via un dégagement 27 et prévue pour être déformée plastiquement sur l'insert décoratif 10 positionné contre la portée 24, pour réaliser un serti de l'insert décoratif 10
• une portion externe 28, notamment cylindrique, prévue du côté de la face arrière 23,
• une portée 29 jouxtant la portion externe 28 pour définir une butée axiale d'assemblage du support 20 sur une pièce d'horlogerie ou de joaillerie.

Support 20 of the figure 1 includes in particular:

• a front face 22, arranged to be visible to a user,
• a rear face 23, arranged opposite the front face 22,
• a through housing 21 arranged between the front face 22 and the rear face 23 and provided to receive and center the decorative insert 10 in the support 20, comprising:
  • an exhibition opening 211 provided on the front face 22 to make the decorative insert 10 visible to the observer,
  • an insertion opening 212 provided on the rear face 23 for introducing the decorative insert 10 into the through housing 21,
  • a range 24 provided for positioning the decorative insert 10 in the through housing 21,
• a crimping portion 25, accessible for a crimping tool from the rear face 23 via a clearance 27 and intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert 10 positioned against the bearing surface 24, to produce a crimping of decorative insert 10
• an external portion 28, in particular cylindrical, provided on the side of the rear face 23,
• a span 29 adjoining the external portion 28 to define an axial stop for assembling the support 20 on a timepiece or jewelry piece.

It may be provided that the front face 22, intended to be visible to an observer or a user, is provided with a decorative finish, such as a polish (a mirror polish), decorative engravings, decorative chamfers or rays constituting a sunburst. There is no limitation as to the geometric definition of the front face 22 forming the visible portion of the support 20. Preferably, the front face 22 adopts a geometry comprising, for example, chamfers or facets making it possible to highlight the decorative insert 10. The finish or finish of the front face 22 may advantageously be in particular a diamond finish, a black polish or a mirror polish. Finishes or finishes such as a satin finish, a sunburst, a snail finish, a guilloche finish or any other watchmaking finish may also be applied independently to the different surfaces of the front face 22. In addition, markings or engravings, for example made by laser, may also be applied thereto. Colored deposits can also be applied such as ink, enamel, ceramic or luminescent material.

The rear face 23 may be intended to be hidden from the observer or the end user, but the opposite is possible, i.e. the rear face 23 may be left visible.

The span 24 is therefore arranged between the display opening 211 and the insertion opening 212, and has a conical or truncated surface, to properly center the decorative insert 10. The span 24 has an opening with a diameter D2, which is the smallest passage diameter of the through housing 21.

The crimping portion 25 overhangs the bearing surface 24 on the side of the insertion opening 212, and forms in this example a lip having a cylindrical central recess and a conical or truncated external face which opens onto a bearing surface 26 (in other words, the crimping lip or at least its external surface is adjacent to the bearing surface 26). The bearing surface 26 forms the bottom of the clearance 27. The clearance 27 opens directly onto the rear face 23, and can provide a passage for a crimping tool as will be described below. As shown in figure 1 , the crimping portion 25 has a cross section which decreases towards its free end.

It is possible to provide at the level of the bearing surface 24 and/or at the level of the portion to be crimped 25 shapes or counter-shapes to angularly orient the decorative insert 10. In particular, if the bare decorative insert 10 has, when viewed from above, a non-circular size, silhouette or shape (oval, pear-shaped, baguette-shaped, polygonal size, shape or silhouette, etc.), then the bearing surface 24 and/or the portion to be crimped can have a suitable receiving counter-shape to guarantee precise and reliable angular orientation.

The support 20 has a central axis A2, which here forms an axis of symmetry of the through housing 21.

There figure 2 represents a side view of the decorative insert 10 which can be received in the support 20 of the figure 1 . The decorative insert 10 may be a gemstone that includes a crown 12 defined by the lower portion (with reference to the figure 2 ) of the stone and a culet 13 defined by the upper part (with reference to the figure 2 ). The two parts are separated by a sheet 11 of diameter D1 and which defines the outline or peripheral edge of the stone. In addition, the stone comprises a table 14 defined by the wide lower facet of the stone, at the center of the crown 12. The decorative insert 10 finally has an axis A1 passing through its center and perpendicular to the table 14.

There figure 3 represents the decorative insert 10 of the figure 2 received in support 20 of the figure 1 . Within the decorative assembly thus presented, the crown 12 is the front or visible part of the decorative insert 10, and the cylinder head 13 is the rear or hidden part of the decorative insert 10.

The decorative insert 10 is intended to be placed within the support 20 in order to form an aesthetic and high-quality decorative assembly. More particularly, the decorative insert 10 is intended to be placed within the through-housing 21 by being inserted from the rear of the support 20, in a direction substantially coaxial with the axis A2 of the support 20. The axis A2 is longitudinal to the through-housing 21 and passes through the center of the latter.

The through housing 21 is machined so as to fit the sheet 11 of the decorative insert 10 and allow optimal positioning of the latter. In addition, the bearing surface 24 is provided with an opening with a dimension D2 smaller than the dimension, in particular the diameter D1, of the sheet 11, to properly retain the decorative insert 10.

The bearing surface 24 of the through housing 21 is designed to cooperate or fit with the crown 12, so as to define an axial stop and precise positioning of the decorative insert 10. More particularly, the bearing surface 24 is defined so as to position the table 14 along the axis A2 with great precision, and to orient the table 14 so that the axis A1 of the decorative insert 10 and the axis A2 of the support 20 are as perfectly coaxial as possible.

The opening defined by the span 24 is provided so as to reveal the table 14 and a major portion of the crown 12 on the visible side of the decorative assembly. Indeed, only a small portion located on the outer periphery of the crown 12 is, preferably, intended to cooperate with the span 24, to leave the largest possible part of the decorative insert 10 visible.

It may be noted that the decorative insert 10 may be mounted and crimped into the support 20 “in the other direction” relative to the representation of the figure 3 . Indeed, it can be provided that the cylinder head 13 of the decorative insert 10 is positioned against the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be crimped 25 would fit the crown 12. Consequently, it would therefore be the cylinder head 13 which would be on the visible side of the decorative assembly.

The support 20 comprises a crimping portion 25 arranged on the rear side of the support 20, intended to provide the crimping function of the decorative insert 10. The figure 4 represents the whole of the figure 3 positioned in a crimping tool, before a crimping operation to fix the decorative insert 10 of the figure 2 received in support 20 of the figure 1 .

The crimping tool essentially comprises a fixture 110 which receives the support 20 (with the decorative insert 10 placed in the support 20), and a crimping tool 120, opposite the portion to be crimped 25 of the support 20.

The mounting 110 may comprise a bore 111 for properly centering the support 20, and a base surface 112 which receives the front face 22 of the support 20. A recess or a step may be provided on the base surface 112 opposite the table 14, to avoid any interference. Optionally, it may be provided that the base surface 112 perfectly matches the front face 22.

The crimping tool 120 has a punch shape with a hollowed-out cylinder 121 with a crimping interface 125, an internal clearance 127 into which a through passage 128 opens. The crimping interface 125 is directly opposite the portion to be crimped 25, and ends with a terminal surface 126 (itself opposite the bearing surface 26 of the support 20), at the lower level of the crimping tool 120.

The decorative ensemble of the figure 4 is ready to be crimped, and for this purpose, the crimping tool 120 can perform an axial movement downwards to go into an end-of-stroke position, or end of crimping as shown in figure 5 . On the figure 5 , it can be noted that the crimping tool 120 during its downward movement came into contact with the portion to be crimped 25, so that the crimping interface 125 folded down the portion to be crimped. 25 against the decorative insert 10. In detail, the portion to be crimped 25 is folded over a peripheral part of the cylinder head 13, so that a closed crimping of the decorative insert 10 is carried out from the rear of the support 20.

It may be noted that the internal clearance 127 and the through passage 128 of the crimping tool 120 prevent any interference with the decorative insert 10. It may also be noted that the terminal surface 126 of the crimping tool 120 is likely to be in contact with the support surface 26, so that the deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 is well controlled, and that any untimely crimping force passes directly from the crimping tool 120 to the support 20, and not via the decorative insert 10, which preserves the latter.

It may also be noted that the front face 22 in contact with the fitting 110 has a much larger contact area than the bearing surface 26, and/or that the cross section of the portion to be crimped 25 is plastically deformed. As a result of this large contact area of the front face 22 in contact with the fitting 110, the front face 22 does not undergo any irreversible deformation, nor any marks related to the crimping: the visible appearance of the support 20 and its perceived quality are not affected by the crimping.

The closed setting provides excellent mechanical hold of the stone within the support 20. In addition, this type of setting only covers the perimeter of the pavilion 13, thus allowing a maximum amount of light to pass through and thus maximizing the brilliance of a transparent stone.

At the level of the support of the crimping interface 125 on the portion to be crimped 25, the crimping interface 125 and/or the portion to be crimped 25 advantageously have a conical or truncated shape or, more generally, a cross section with an inclined plane. Advantageously, this conformation means that the axial force applied to the crimping tool 120 generates a deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 with a mainly radial component relative to the axes A1, A2, so as to fit the yoke 13 and crimp the decorative insert 10 on the support 20.

Thus, the axial force applied to the crimping tool 120 is not directly transmitted to the decorative insert 10, but is converted into an essentially radial deformation of the lip. In other words, the force applied to the crimping tool 120 is not directly transmitted to the decorative insert 10 with a component mainly normal to the latter, and it does not generate a mainly axial force on the decorative insert 10. This advantageously makes it possible to avoid damaging or moving the decorative insert 10 or even generating an unwanted deformation of the support 20, or more particularly, of the bearing surface 24.

The fact that the circumference of the portion to be crimped 25 is simultaneously deformed makes it possible to guarantee optimal centering or self-centering of the decorative insert 10 during crimping. In addition, this fact makes it possible to avoid skewing and to guarantee optimal coaxiality between the axis A1 of the decorative insert 10 and the axis A2 of the support 20.

The crimping tool 120 comprises an outer portion 121 which adjoins the crimping interface 125 from the outside. The dimensions of the outer portion 121 are provided so as to allow the insertion of the crimping tool 120 into the clearance 27 of the support 20.

The crimping tool 120 is preferably assembled on a bracket allowing it to be guided axially. The crimping tool 120 can be servo-controlled in position and/or force, and be automatic, semi-automatic or manually operated by a user.

It is expected that the crimping is carried out in a single action of the crimping tool 120, or in a single axial movement of the crimping tool 120 against the portion to be crimped 25. Alternatively, the action allowing the shaping of the portion to be crimped 25 may comprise a succession of axial movements and stops, and may or may not comprise back-and-forth movements of the crimping tool 120. In this respect, it may be noted that this movement of the crimping tool 120 in the support 20 may be used to provide automatic insertion of the decorative insert 10 into the support. Indeed, a contact or gripping interface can be provided on the crimping tool 120 (movable relative to the crimping interface 125) which can receive and hold the decorative insert 10 on the crimping tool 120 in the rest position. During the movement of the crimping tool 120 towards the support 20, the decorative insert 10 is transported towards the bearing surface 24 and positioned against the latter, and the portion to be crimped 25 is then deformed.

An axial stop and/or the control of the crimping tool 120 advantageously make it possible to limit the axial movement of the latter during crimping and to prevent excessive deformation of the portion to be crimped 25 and/or of the bearing surface 24 which could in particular degrade the positioning or the holding of the decorative insert 10 within the through housing 21.

The support 20 or at least the different parts of the support 20 intended to position, orient and hold the stone are designed so as to be able to be machined with high-precision manufacturing means allowing mass production such as milling or turning. More particularly, it is provided that at least the through housing 21, the bearing surface 24, the opening defined by the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be set 25 are machined with said manufacturing means. Consequently, it is advantageously possible to orient and position the table 14 along the axis A2 in a precise and repeatable manner.

Furthermore, thanks to the setting of the decorative insert 10 from the rear and to the bearing surface 24, it is possible to reduce the chain of dimensions between the table 14 and the front face 22 to a minimum of dimensions, which further makes it possible to limit the dispersion or the standard deviation on in particular the positioning of the precious stone along the axis A2.

The accuracy and repeatability offered by the disclosed solution are particularly advantageous when multiple decorative inserts 10 and/or decorative assemblies are assembled side by side, as the solution allows to have all of the tables 14 positioned substantially at the same height and to have all of them substantially oriented along the same plane with great precision and/or low dispersion. This results in a reflection and shimmering in unison of all of the decorative inserts 10, as if all of the tables 14 had come from the same stone.

The solution presented therefore allows crimping on the rear or hidden side of the decorative assembly. Consequently, the aesthetics or the termination of the visible side of the decorative assembly is advantageously not dependent on the quality of the implementation of the crimping. Indeed, the solution proposed here makes it possible to dissociate the crimping function which is carried out on the rear side of the decorative assembly, from the aesthetic function which is carried out on the front or visible side of the latter.

In addition, the solution makes it possible to simplify the crimping while guaranteeing high mechanical strength or resistance, precise orientation and positioning of the decorative insert 10 within the through-housing 21 of the support 20.

• Disposer d'un support 20 avec la face avant 22 posée ou maintenue contre un posage 110.
• Insérer un insert décoratif 10 dans le logement traversant 21 par l'ouverture d'insertion 212 du support 20, de façon que la couronne 12 soit en appui contre la portée 24.
• Déplacer l'outil de sertissage 120 coaxialement à l'axe A2 jusqu'à ce qu'il soit en contact avec la portion à sertir 25.
• Sertir l'insert décoratif 10 sur le support 20 en appliquant à l'outil de sertissage 120 une force suffisante qui permet de rabattre la portion à sertir 25 contre la culasse 13. Comme décrit précédemment, cette étape peut comprendre une succession de déplacements axiaux et d'arrêts, et peut ou non comprendre des allers-retours.
• Arrêter l'application de la force dès qu'elle a atteint une valeur de consigne et/ou dès que le déplacement de l'outil de sertissage 120 a atteint une valeur de consigne et/ou dès que l'outil de sertissage 120 est en butée contre la surface d'appui 26 du support 20.
• Mettre hors de portée l'outil de sertissage 120 de l'ensemble décoratif.

In reference to the Figures 4 and 5 , crimping may include the following steps:

• Have a support 20 with the front face 22 placed or held against a support 110.
• Insert a decorative insert 10 into the through housing 21 through the insertion opening 212 of the support 20, so that the crown 12 rests against the bearing surface 24.
• Move the crimping tool 120 coaxially with the axis A2 until it is in contact with the portion to be crimped 25.
• Crimp the decorative insert 10 onto the support 20 by applying sufficient force to the crimping tool 120 to fold the portion to be crimped 25 against the cylinder head 13. As described above, this step may include a succession of axial movements and stops, and may or may not include back-and-forth movements.
• Stop the application of the force as soon as it has reached a set value and/or as soon as the movement of the crimping tool 120 has reached a set value and/or as soon as the crimping tool 120 is in abutment against the support surface 26 of the support 20.
• Place the crimping tool 120 out of reach of the decorative assembly.

There figure 6 represents the whole of the figure 3 after the crimping operation of the figure 5 . It can be noted that the portion to be crimped 25 is well folded over the peripheral part of the cylinder head 13, with the table 14 perfectly aligned with the front face 22 of the support 20.

There figure 7 represents a perspective view from the front of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation, to clearly show that the support 20 leaves a large part of the decorative insert 10 visible. It can be noted that the front face 22, having a large contact area with the installation 110 of the figure 4 or 5 , is free of marks.

There figure 8 represents a perspective view from behind of the entire figure 3 after the crimping operation, to clearly show the portion to be crimped 26 folded all around the decorative insert 10, thus forming a closed crimping.

Once the setting is made, the user who would look at the decorative assembly from the front face 22, as shown in the figure 7 , could consider that the decorative insert 10 is fixed on the support 20 by a closed setting or a mass setting made from the front face 22. The latter having an appearance which is not altered by the setting, the notion of perceived quality is very high.

Industrial application

A support and/or a decorative assembly according to the present invention, and its manufacture, are capable of industrial application.

It will be understood that various modifications and/or improvements obvious to those skilled in the art may be made to the various embodiments of the invention described in the present description without departing from the scope of the invention.

In particular, it can be noted that the span 24 is provided so as to benefit from support over the entire circumference or the periphery of the decorative insert 10. However, the span 24 could also have portions without support, so as to have portions of partial support on the periphery of the decorative insert 10.

Preferably, the closed setting is provided over the entire circumference or the periphery of the decorative insert 10. However, the portion to be set 25 could comprise portions without a lip, so as to obtain a partially closed setting or a closed setting only on certain portions of the periphery of the stone. Alternatively or in addition, deformable portions to be set may be provided, for example in the form of petals.

The crimping interface 125 of the crimping tool 120 could include recesses, clearances, or out-of-reach portions of the crimping portion 25, such that the crimping interface 125 can fold back only certain portions of the crimping portion 25 and obtain a partially closed crimp or a closed crimp only on certain portions of the perimeter of the decorative insert 10.

The support 20 may not include a machined setting portion 25. Therefore, the decorative insert 10 could be set to the support 20 by a material upset by work hardening around the stone or by a lip sheared by the setting tool 120 during setting.

The internal clearance 127 of the crimping tool 120 could participate in the positioning of the decorative insert 10 during crimping, by guiding it by contact with the yoke 13. The guidance by the yoke could comprise an additional means, for example a guide means or a contact interface having a degree of freedom in the axial direction relative to the crimping tool 120.

The internal clearance 127 could take up and match the geometry of the cylinder head 13 so as to angularly orient the decorative insert 10 during crimping.

The angular orientation of the decorative insert 10 opposite the support 20 could be controlled or assisted by a vision means. In the case where an angular orientation is to be guaranteed between the support 20 and the decorative insert 10, the bearing surface 24 or the portion to be crimped 25 can be used to guarantee the angular orientation of the decorative insert 10, for example by providing a counterform at the bearing surface 24 or the portion to be crimped 25 which matches an external contour of the decorative insert 10.

The decorative insert 10 could be housed or carried by the crimping tool 120 so that, during crimping, the latter can insert the decorative insert 10 into the through-housing 21 of the support 20 and crimp it in a single action. To do this, the crimping tool 120 could comprise a means for gripping or holding the decorative insert 10.

The crimping could be carried out by a relative movement of the crimping tool 120 opposite the support 20 or vice versa from top to bottom or from bottom to top. During this relative movement, the decorative insert 10 can be carried and placed within the support 20 by the crimping tool 120 during crimping.

Of course, a support 20 could comprise several housings 21 to be able to accommodate several decorative inserts 10. We can also note the case where the decorative insert 10 is set “upside down”. In other words, the yoke 13 of the decorative insert 10 would be positioned against the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be set 25 would fit the crown 12. Consequently, it would therefore be the yoke 13 which would be on the visible side of the decorative assembly.

It is also possible to plan to manufacture the decorative assembly with a process that provides for positioning of the support by a coating or temporary overmolding. For example, it is possible to plan to machine several supports 20 in the same metal plate, starting at the level of the front face 22 and the accessible parts of the through-housing 21. Once the front faces have been formed and exposed, they can be embedded in a synthetic material which forms a coating or a protective envelope around the support blanks 20. Then, the rear face 23 as well as the remainder of the through-housing 21 (in particular the bearing surface 24 and the portion to be crimped 25) can be machined. Machining the rear face 23 may require turning the plate over to gain access to it. Since the front face is still embedded in the synthetic material, crimping can be carried out from the rear face, using the synthetic material as a support, which further reduces the risks of inadvertent marking of the front face 22 (the latter being embedded and protected by the synthetic material). Once crimping has been carried out, the synthetic material can be removed (by dissolving for example) and the finished supports 20 released.

Claims (18)

Support (20) for a timepiece or piece of jewelry, the timepiece or piece of jewelry comprising the support (20) and a decorative insert (10), such as a gem, set on the support (20), the support (20) comprising: - a front face (22), arranged to be visible to a user, - a rear face (23), - at least one through housing (21) arranged between the front face (22) and the rear face (23) and intended to receive the decorative insert (10), comprising: - a display opening (211) provided on the front face (22) to make the decorative insert (10) visible to the observer, - an insertion opening (212) provided on the rear face (23) for introducing the decorative insert (10) into the through housing (21), - a span (24) provided for positioning the decorative insert (10) in the through housing (21), characterized in that the support (20) comprises a crimping portion (25) intended to be plastically deformed on the decorative insert (10) positioned against the bearing surface (24), to produce a crimping of the decorative insert (10). Support (20) according to claim 1, comprising a support surface (26) arranged on the side of the rear face (23) and provided to provide end-of-crimping support to a crimping tool (120) provided to deform the portion to be crimped (25) on the decorative insert (10). Support (20) according to claim 2, in which the bearing surface (26) is arranged on the periphery of the portion to be crimped (25), and preferably around the portion to be crimped (25). Support (20) according to one of claims 2 or 3, in which the portion to be crimped (25) comprises a lip comprising a central face, preferably cylindrical, and an external face, preferably conical or frustoconical, adjacent to the support surface (26). A support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the front face (22) comprises a decorated surface intended to be visible to the user and comprising a decorative finish or decorative termination such as a surface coating, or diamond plating, or polishing, or engraving. Support (20) according to claim 5 in its dependency on one of claims 2 to 4, in which, in a crimping direction and in a plane normal to the crimping direction: - the support surface (26) has a first projected surface, - the front face (22) has a second projected surface, and wherein the area of the second projected surface is greater than the area of the first projected surface, preferably the area of the second projected surface is greater than 150% of the value of the area of the first projected surface, and preferably the area of the second projected surface is greater than 200% of the value of the area of the first projected surface. Support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 6, in which the setting of the decorative insert (10) is a closed setting. Support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the portion to be crimped (25) comprises a lip arranged on the periphery of the bearing surface (24), and preferably around the bearing surface 24, and designed to be folded down in whole or in part onto the decorative insert (10). Support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the portion to be crimped (25) comprises at least one side wall portion of the through housing (21) to be pushed back and/or sheared by the crimping tool (120). Support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 9, in which the bearing surface (24) comprises a contact surface with the decorative insert (10) which is continuous. Support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 10, in which the bearing surface (24) comprises a discontinuous contact surface with the decorative insert (10). Timepiece or jewelry piece, comprising: - at least one support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 11 and - at least one decorative insert (10) arranged in the through housing (21) against the bearing surface (24), the portion to be crimped (25) being crimped onto the decorative insert (10). Method of manufacturing a timepiece or piece of jewelry, comprising the following steps: - provide a support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 11, - insert a decorative insert (10) into the through-housing (21) through the insertion opening (212), - plastically deform the portion to be crimped (25) against the decorative insert (10). Manufacturing method according to claim 13, wherein the step of plastically deforming the portion to be crimped (25) is carried out in a single action and/or a single movement, by introducing a crimping tool (120) into the through-housing (21) via the insertion opening (212), the crimping tool (120) comprising a crimping interface (125) provided to come into contact with the portion to be crimped (25) and to plastically and preferably simultaneously deform the periphery of the portion to be crimped (25). Manufacturing method according to claim 14, in which the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped (25) ends with a mechanical stop of the crimping tool (120) on the support (20). Manufacturing method according to one of claims 14 or 15, the crimping tool (120) comprising a contact interface intended to cooperate with the decorative insert (10), and in which the manufacturing method comprises a step consisting of positioning the decorative insert (10) relative to the support (20) with the contact interface, at least before or during the step of plastic deformation of the portion to be crimped (25). Manufacturing method according to one of claims 13 to 16, in which the crimping tool (120) follows a linear movement, preferably coaxial with an axial direction of the through housing (21). Crimping tool, intended to implement the manufacturing method of one of claims 13 to 17, comprising: - a crimping fixture (110), designed to receive the support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 11, - a crimping tool (120) comprising: - a crimping interface (125) provided to come into contact with the portion to be crimped (25) of the support (20) according to one of claims 1 to 11 and to plastically deform the portion to be crimped (25), - a contact interface, movable relative to the crimping interface (125) and designed to receive and hold the decorative insert (10) on the crimping tool before a crimping operation, wherein the crimping tool (120) includes an internal clearance (127) provided to prevent direct contact between the crimping interface (125) of the crimping tool (120) and the decorative insert (10).

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