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EP1791517B1 - Preparation, en particulier preparation cosmetique, son procede de production et son utilisation - Google Patents

Preparation, en particulier preparation cosmetique, son procede de production et son utilisation Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1791517B1
EP1791517B1 EP05789519A EP05789519A EP1791517B1 EP 1791517 B1 EP1791517 B1 EP 1791517B1 EP 05789519 A EP05789519 A EP 05789519A EP 05789519 A EP05789519 A EP 05789519A EP 1791517 B1 EP1791517 B1 EP 1791517B1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
preparation according
preparation
previous
ester
phase
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Not-in-force
Application number
EP05789519A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP1791517A1 (fr
Inventor
Susanne Emig
Sonja Engelhardt
Sabine Hargrave
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from DE200420014644 external-priority patent/DE202004014644U1/de
Priority claimed from DE202004017760U external-priority patent/DE202004017760U1/de
Priority claimed from DE102005020583.6A external-priority patent/DE102005020583B4/de
Application filed by Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH and Co KG filed Critical Schwan Stabilo Cosmetics GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP1791517A1 publication Critical patent/EP1791517A1/fr
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP1791517B1 publication Critical patent/EP1791517B1/fr
Not-in-force legal-status Critical Current
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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a preparation in the form of an emulsion having a lipophilic outer phase and a hydrophilic inner phase, in particular a cosmetic preparation, as well as their preparation and use.
  • Emulsion-type preparations are used in many fields, in particular in the field of cosmetics and food chemistry.
  • Emulsions are heterogeneous systems of two phases, which are not or not indefinitely miscible with each other, with an inner phase is distributed in small particle form in the other outer phase.
  • the outer phase which contains the inner phase in the form of fine to very fine droplets, is called a continuous phase and determines the basic character of the emulsion.
  • Emulsions in which water forms the inner phase have advantageous properties. Under Others microbiological problems tend not to occur in this type of emulsions.
  • lipids such as oils or fats, or silicones used.
  • the silicone may be volatile or nonvolatile and may be a silicone oil, silicone resin, silicone gel or silicone copolymers.
  • Oily emulsions commonly used in the cosmetics field so-called W / O emulsions, often have the disadvantage that the outer lipophilic phase leaves a greasy or sticky feeling after application to the skin, which is perceived as unpleasant. Even with the use of silicones as the outer phase, this unpleasant effect can occur. Moreover, using such emulsions in the eye area has the disadvantage that the oil or silicone phase migrates into the eye or conjunctival sac causing oily fog on the lens and unpleasant irritation.
  • a disadvantage of the known preparations is that they are easily transferred from the skin or the lips to which they were applied as intended, to other surfaces, for example on cups, glasses, textiles or other skin areas. This can leave traces in the form of a colored imprint or a grease film. So such products have insufficient adhesion to the ground, which means that lip and cheek rouge, make-up, eye shadow and sunscreen must be regularly re-applied. Since oily components usually spread very well on the skin and lips, the pigments migrate from the original place of application together with small amounts of the oil phase in the Feinlimtelung
  • silicone oils in these preparations of the previously known type could improve adhesion and durability, the silicone oils caused deleterious effects on sensitive users when applied close to the eyes. If even minimal amounts of silicone oils, in particular non-volatile silicone oils or other silicone polymers from the known from the prior art, pin-shaped products in the eye or the conjunctival sac, they may lead to an oily fog on the lens and to unpleasant irritation, a so-called . "wind burn effect" lead.
  • emulsions containing particulate or finely divided ingredients such as pigments or effect substances.
  • the particles can destabilize the emulsion and settle, resulting in an aesthetically unsatisfactory biphasic composition.
  • the object of the invention was therefore to provide a preparation, in particular a cosmetic preparation which does not have the disadvantages of the prior art products, and which is present as a supple paste. Another object was to provide a preparation which remains stable for a long time and in which the phases do not separate, even if particulate ingredients are included.
  • the object of the invention was furthermore to provide a storage-stable composition which does not separate into phases even after prolonged storage at different temperatures in different climatic zones.
  • the preparation should be applied well and adhere to the applied place and after drying neither to migrate into the environment nor transferred to other surfaces.
  • Another object of the invention was to provide a preparation which is free of animal-derived substances produced, ie containing only ingredients from plants and / or mineral and / or synthetic materials.
  • the preparation according to the invention is in the form of an emulsion having a lipophilic outer phase and a hydrophilic inner phase, wherein the outer phase is an at least bivalent ester component, a volatile silicone, an emulsifier, a particulate phase and optionally a humectant and other ingredients customary in cosmetics contains, and the inner phase contains an aqueous medium and optionally in cosmetics usual hydrophilic additives.
  • the ester component has a melting point in the range of 40 to 200 ° C.
  • a preparation as claimed does not show the disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, it stays longer. Stable, adheres perfectly to the applied location, is smudge-proof and practically does not transfer to other surfaces, such as cups, glasses, textiles or other skin areas. It also leaves no traces in the form of a colored imprint or a grease film. Since it contains no oily ingredients that spread on the skin and lips, the pigments do not migrate away from the job site in the Feinlimtelung the skin. Therefore, excellent optical results are achieved with the preparation according to the invention.
  • the preparation has a pronounced structural viscosity and can therefore be applied lightly and smoothly and in different layer thicknesses so that smooth and soft transitions to the untreated skin can be made after application. In contrast to known silicone-containing compositions, it does not dry out the skin and does not create an exciting feeling.
  • the preparation of the invention migrates after drying neither on the skin nor in the lip wrinkles. Despite the content of silicones it does not stretch and
  • the preparation according to the invention is present as an emulsion in the form of a supple paste and is suitable for cosmetic applications, in particular in the field of decorative cosmetics, for dyeing and beautifying the skin, the lips and the eyelids.
  • cosmetic applications in particular in the field of decorative cosmetics, for dyeing and beautifying the skin, the lips and the eyelids.
  • Examples include lip and cheek blush, make-up, concealer, eye shadow, lipstick or lip rouge fixative, pestle base for skin care or sunscreen.
  • the advantageous properties are achieved by combining selected ingredients.
  • the ingredients listed in claim 1 and explained in more detail below contribute the good properties.
  • the use of fatty or oily ingredients, especially those derived from the animal can be dispensed with.
  • the proportion of non-volatile silicones is reduced so much that their adverse properties do not come to fruition.
  • the preparation according to the invention in the form of an emulsion has an inner and an outer phase.
  • the inner or disperse phase is aqueous and consists of an aqueous medium in which the hydrophilic constituents are dispersed and / or optionally dissolved.
  • the outer phase contains at least one multivalent ester component, at least one volatile silicone and at least one particulate phase.
  • the preparation additionally contains at least one emulsifier and, if appropriate, may additionally contain other additives customary in cosmetics.
  • the essential constituents of the preparation according to the invention ensure that a stable emulsion is formed.
  • the preparation according to the invention contains a waxy ester component in combination with a volatile silicone which provides the structure, at least one emulsifier which stabilizes the emulsion and an aqueous medium as the dispersed phase.
  • a humectant and at least one finely divided solid phase are included.
  • the aqueous medium consists of water and / or aqueous or water-miscible solvents.
  • the aqueous medium may be e.g. a water-alcohol mixture, wherein the alcohol is preferably ethanol or isopropanol.
  • the aqueous medium is water.
  • the outer phase contains as a constituent essential to the invention a polyvalent ester component, which contributes to the structure formation and is used as a waxy constituent.
  • polyvalent is understood to mean at least dihydric esters.
  • such compounds are defined as multivalent ester components, which consists of polyhydric (at least dihydric) alcohols having in each case at least two acid residues, polybasic (at least divalent) acids and in each case at least two alcohol radicals or polyhydric alcohols and polybasic acids are constructed, wherein the chain length of the alcohol-derived radicals and of the acid-derived radicals C 2 to C 60 , preferably C 4 to C 60 , particularly preferably C 20 to C 60 .
  • the ester component should, inter alia, assume the function of a wax in the preparation and therefore preferably has a melting point in the range between 40 and 200 ° C, preferably from 55 to 125 ° C.
  • the sum of the carbon atoms of alcohol and carboxylic acid residues should be in a range of 35 to 150, preferably 40 to 100.
  • Both the alcohol radical and the carboxylic acid radical can have a saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon moiety and optionally also have further substituents in the form of functional groups, such as hydroxyl, carboxyl, amino, acid amide, ester groups and the like ,
  • the polyvalent ester component preferably contains at least one compound of the formula I: wherein R is a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, W, X, Y and Z are each independently -C (O) O-, -OC (O) -, -O-, -NR 5 2 or -NC (O) -, and each of R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 each independently represents a linear or branched long-chain hydrocarbon, preferably having 8 to 36, more preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • esters in particular fatty acid esters of pentaerythritol, such as e.g. Pentaterythrityl tetramyristate, tristearate, tetrastearate, triisostearate, tetraisostearate, tri (12-hydroxy) stearate, tetra (12-hydroxy) stearate, tribehenate, tetrabehenate, tetra (ethylhexyldodecanoate), trierucate, tetraerucate, tetramelissinate and the like become.
  • pentaerythritol such as e.g. Pentaterythrityl tetramyristate, tristearate, tetrastearate, triisostearate, tetraisostearate, tri (12-hydroxy) stearate, tetra (12-hydroxy) stearate, tribehenate, tetrabehenate, tetra (eth
  • ester component it is also possible to use at least one vegetable wax, preferably a mixture of vegetable waxes, in particular a mixture of candelilla wax and carnauba wax. Mixtures of the ester component of the invention and waxes are possible on the premise that undesirable interactions between the individual components should be minimized.
  • the ester components are used in an amount necessary to achieve the desired "zero viscosity" according to the desired application.
  • the zero viscosity and complex viscosity can be measured with an Anton Paar MCR-301 rheometer (plate / plate measuring system, plates both sandblasted, plate diameter 25 mm, gap width 1000 ⁇ m, shear rate at the zero viscosity 0.00005 s -1 , temperature 298, 15 K; Software Rheoplus / 32 V6.23).
  • the amount used is in a range between 0.5 and 20 wt .-%, preferably in a range between 2 and 12 wt .-%.
  • Ester components in particular the esters derived from pentaerythritol - possibly due to the three-dimensional structure derived from the tetrahedral model - are very well suited for gelling volatile silicone oils, such as cyclomethicones or short-chain dimethylpolysiloxanes, and in this way form structures which facilitate the application of the preparation according to the invention.
  • a wax is added to the preparation according to the invention, it is preferably a wax having a dropping point of between 50 and 200 ° C., in particular between 60 and 150 ° C., very particularly preferably between 75 and 120 ° C.
  • This additional wax component contains at least one alcohol residue of a chain length between C 2 and C 60 and a carboxylic acid residue with a chain length between C 4 and C 60 .
  • Both the alcohol radical and the carboxylic acid radical can have a saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated straight-chain or branched-chain hydrocarbon moiety and optionally also have further substituents in the form of functional groups, such as hydroxyl, carboxyl, amino, acid amide, ester groups and the like ,
  • the wax, if used, is used in such proportion that the desired zero viscosity is achieved.
  • the second essential component of the preparation according to the invention is a volatile silicone oil.
  • volatile silicone oil is meant herein a silicone compound that is liquid at room temperature and, when applied to the skin, i. at a temperature between 30 and 38 ° C, slowly evaporated.
  • the volatile silicone has a vapor pressure in the range of 0.1 to 20 kPa at 25 ° C, preferably 0.2 to 10 kPa, and more preferably 0.5 to 5 kPa.
  • a preparation in particular a cosmetic preparation in the form of an emulsion
  • volatile silicone oils as the only liquid lipid component.
  • Suitable are short-chain and cyclic dimethylsiloxanes. Examples of these are cyclomethicones such as hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane or short-chain dimethicones such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane or mixtures thereof, the amount used being between 5 and 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation, preferably between 15 and 45% by weight,
  • Non-volatile silicone oils in a small amount, e.g. as defoamer and emulsifying aids.
  • the amount of non-volatile silicone oils is below 5 wt .-%, preferably below 1.5 wt.%.
  • the combination according to the invention makes it possible to stably integrate in the preparation a solid phase which is e.g. may consist of finely divided fillers, colorants and / or effect materials.
  • the aforesaid solid or particulate phase consists of particulate ingredients which dissolve neither in the hydrophobic nor in the hydrophilic phase.
  • the particulate phase may be selected from, for example, fillers such as talc, kaolin, starch and modified starch, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon), nylon powder, boron nitride, insoluble metal soaps such as Mg stearate, Ca stearate, Sr stearate, Zn stearate Effect materials, such as tinsel, glitter, fluorescent and phosphorescent particles, and in particular of inorganic or organic pigments or mixtures of these substances.
  • fillers such as talc, kaolin, starch and modified starch, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon), nylon powder, boron nitride, insoluble metal soaps such as Mg stearate, Ca stearate, Sr stearate, Zn stearate Effect materials, such
  • pigments are: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxides, Chromium oxide, hydrated chromium oxide, ultramarine, Berlin blue (Ferric Blue), mica, pearlescing agents such as titanium dioxide coated mica, colored; coated with titanium dioxide and metal oxides mica, bismuth oxychloride, coated bismuth oxychloride, platelet-shaped metal powder of aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, silver, gold, and laking organic colorants with aluminum, barium, zirconium, calcium or strontium. This list is only an example and not exhaustive.
  • nanopigments having an average particle size of between 5 and 50 nm, which have a transparent effect on the skin and no longer color it.
  • examples include silicon dioxide, titanium dioxide, cerium oxide, aluminum oxide, zirconium oxide and zinc oxide.
  • lacquers of organic dyes are used as colorants. It has been found that the combination of organic dye laking with the emulsion according to the invention causes the dyes not to bleed, but to be retained in the structure produced.
  • a preparation which contains pearlescent pigments and platelet-shaped metal powders.
  • At least one emulsifier is used to form the emulsions of the invention. It is also possible to use a mixture of emulsifiers. Preference is given to using an emulsifier suitable for W / S emulsions or a combination of a W / S and a W / O emulsifier.
  • the emulsifiers known to the person skilled in the art may be added. Preferably, a nonionic emulsifier is used.
  • Preferred emulsifiers are those selected, for example, from sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan laurate, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, PEG-5 soya sterol, soya sterol, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 isostearate, polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate or cetyl PEG / PPG Dimethicones, such as Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone. Plant sterols, such as soyasterols are in this case preferably used as auxiliary emulsifiers.
  • phosphate esters are also suitable as emulsifiers for the preparation of the preparation according to the invention, such as e.g. Trioleyl phosphate, trioleth-8-phosphate or trilaureth-4-phosphate.
  • emulsifiers are in the range between 0.5 and 10 wt .-%, preferably between 1.5 and 6 wt .-%.
  • inorganic salts or (almost insoluble in water) salts of fatty acids may optionally be added to the water phase, such as magnesium sulfate, sodium sulfate, sodium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium stearate or magnesium myristate.
  • the latter two have to be thoroughly dispersed in the water phase before the emulsion is formed - but they can preferably also be added to the solid phase.
  • the abovementioned salts are used in amounts of from 0.05 to 3% by weight, but preferably from 0.3 to 2% by weight, in the aqueous phase.
  • the preparation according to the invention may also contain at least one humectant, such as e.g. Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, glucose, fructose, sucrose, carbamide (urea), lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid (PCA) or the salts of said acids or mixtures thereof Be added substances.
  • humectant such as e.g. Propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol, glucose, fructose, sucrose, carbamide (urea), lactic acid, citric acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid
  • silica amorphous silica
  • bentonites hectorites, montmorillonites or the like
  • montmorillonites or the like
  • preparation according to the invention in cosmetics may contain customary additives such as preservatives, antioxidants, fragrances, vitamins, sunscreen filters and the like in the quantities customary for these substances.
  • the preparation according to the invention is characterized in that the viscosity changes only insignificantly during a longer storage time.
  • a particular advantage of the preparation according to the invention is that specific heavier ingredients, e.g. do not settle particulate materials such as pigments and effect substances after a long time.
  • a preparation in particular a cosmetic preparation can be made available exclusively derived from plants and / or mineral and / or contains synthetic ingredients, but is completely free of substances derived from the animal.
  • compositions can be obtained whose complex viscosity is in the range from 800 to 6,000 Pa.s and whose zero viscosity is between 200,000 and 1,200,000 Pa.s (shear rate at the zero viscosity of 0.00005 s -1 temperature 298.15 K; Measuring system plate / plate, plates both sandblasted, plate diameter 25 mm, gap width 1.000 ⁇ m, measuring device MCR-301, Anton pair, software Rheoplus / 32 V6.23).
  • the above-mentioned preparations according to the invention because of their excellent durability and hiding power in conjunction with the very good application properties quite well as camouflage for laminating age spots or rosacea, concealers and the like., Further sunscreen products with different sun protection factors (SPF), to so-called.
  • the said nanopigments are preferably present in a particle size of 5 to 50 nm and can be selected from titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, cerium oxide or aluminum oxide. They are preferably used in amounts of from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably in amounts of from 5 to 10% by weight.
  • the preparation can also be prepared without the addition of colorants and possibly contain so-called cosmetic active ingredients. It then finds use as
  • Fixative which is applied over a lipstick or a Lippenrouge. Contains this uncoloured bonnet sunscreen, it can be used as lip protection and care.
  • the skin of the lips unlike the skin of the body, contains no pigmentation.
  • Suitable oil-soluble light filter substances which provide good protection in the UV-A and UV-B range are known in sufficient numbers to those skilled in the relevant art and are described by the respective national or regional legislation e.g. in the EU, in Japan and in the U.S.A. - in Germany, for example, by Annex 7 to ⁇ 3b of the Cosmetics Regulation and should therefore not be listed comprehensively here. For this reason, only the isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate as UV-B filter and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor as UV-A filter are mentioned as examples.
  • the preparation according to the invention is in the form of a soft, supple paste which can be applied and distributed easily and uniformly. Due to its water content in the inner (disperse) phase, it creates a pleasant cooling effect when applied to the skin in combination with the volatile silicone oils. It can be removed again from the skin in the user's known manner - by suitable make-up removing means or cloths or by washing with fine soap or suitable mild surfactant preparations. It can be filled in a known manner in suitable containers, such as bottles, possibly with spatula, crucible or tubes and removed from the user again. However, it can also, because of the improved hygienic conditions associated therewith, be introduced into suitable application devices, so-called donor mechanisms, and applied therefrom. For the order of small quantities, such as those required for the application in the lip or eye area, offer applicators, as for example US 6,238,117 or off US 6,309,128 are known, as they allow a very nice fine dosage.
  • the preparation according to the invention can be prepared by dissolving or dispersing the hydrophobic constituents in the hydrophobic phase, dissolving the hydrophilic constituents in the aqueous phase or emulsifier is added to either or both of the two phases and then the composition is emulsified using shear force.
  • the emulsion of the invention is prepared by first dispersing the particulate phase in the volatile silicone separately from which the ester component is melted and the hydrophobic ingredients are added and the aqueous phase is heated in a separate batch to the temperature of the ester component and the hydrophilic ones Ingredients are added. Subsequently, all three approaches are brought together, homogenized and then cooled, preferably the emulsion is moved. Once the emulsion has reached about body temperature, the temperature-sensitive ingredients, such as perfumes, may be added. Finally, the ready-made preparation is packed.
  • the preparation is carried out by presenting the pigments with the silicone oil very intensively in a suitable homogenizer with Ankerrühnrverk and Zahnkranzhomogenisator and dispersed intensively by means of homogenizer Thereafter, the tetrabehenyl tetrabehenate is added together with the emulsifier and melted at about 70-80 ° C.
  • the parabens, phenoxyethanol, ascorbyl palmitate and tocopherol are added to the melt.
  • the glycerol and sodium chloride were dissolved in the water and then the water phase heated to about 70 ° C. The water phase is then sucked into the homogenizing machine with good stirring.
  • the batch is thoroughly homogenized and then cooled with good stirring. At about 45 ° C is briefly homogenized again, then further cooled with stirring to about 38 ° C. At this temperature, Fragrance (the fragrance mixture) is added and briefly homogenized again. The batch is then vented by applying maximum vacuum and stirred until reaching about 25 ° C. Then it is discharged and filled into suitable storage containers. This gives a preparation in the form of a light brown, very shiny, waterproof, supple paste having a zero viscosity of 853,000 Pas.
  • Example 2 cream eye shadow, cooling (non-transfer) hexamethyldisiloxane 25,500 Pentaerythrityl Tetrabehenate 4,600 Sorbitan sesquioleate 3,800 1.3-butanediol 3,500 Titanated Mica (CI 77019, 77891) 15,500 Ultramarine Blue (CI 77013) 5,800 Chromium Hydroxide Green (CI 77289) 1,200 Black Iron Oxide (CI 77499) 0,800 tocopherol 0,500 Fragrance 0,150 methylparaben 0,200 Propylparaben 0,150 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,100 Magnesium sulphates 0,700 Aqua 37,500
  • the preparation is carried out analogously to the procedure described in Example 1.
  • care must be taken that the pearl pigment, as known to those skilled in the art, is not exposed to excessive shear forces for too long. This gives a greenish-blue, waterproof, supple paste with a pronounced cooling effect, which can be applied well to the eyelids.
  • the above formulation has a zero viscosity of 451,000 Pas.
  • Experience has shown that the use of other pigment combinations in other quantities may also give slightly different viscosity values.
  • Example 3 Lip rouge (cooling, waterproof) hexamethyldisiloxane 23,500 Pentaerythrityl tetraerucate 5,200 Trioleyl phosphates 4,100 1.3-butylene glycol 3,500 Magnesium sulphates 1,000 methylparaben 0,200 Propylparaben 0,100 phenoxyethanol 0,500 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,100 tocopherol 0,300 Fragrance 0,150 Titanated Mica (CI No. 77019, 77891) 1,500 Titanium dioxides (CI No. 77891) 2,800 Red Iron Oxide (CI No. 77491) 2,200 FD & C Yellow No. 5 AI Lake (CI 19140: 1) 0,800 FD & C Red No. 3 AI Lake (CI 45430: 1) 0,700 Aqua 43.350
  • the preparation is analogous to the procedure described above.
  • the result is a strong shiny, bright red preparation in the form of a water-resistant, smooth paste with a zero viscosity of 491,000 Pas, which is particularly well suited for the automatic applicator devices described above.
  • Example 5 Sunblocker for surfers (waterproof) hexamethyldisiloxane 24,000 phenyltrimethicones 0,800 Pentaerythrityl tetrabehenate 4,800 Pentaerythrityl tetra (12-hydroxy) stearates 1,000 Sorbitan sesquioleate 4,200 Iron Oxide Red (CI No. 77491) 3,200 Iron Oxide Yellow CI-No.
  • Example 6 Means for fixing lipstick and lip rouge (smudge-proof) decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 32,500 phenyltrimethicones 0,500 Pentaerythrityl tribehenates 6,200 Sorbitan sesquioleate 4,750 tocopherol 0,300 diglycerol 3,000 magnesium stearate 2,800 Fragrance 0,200 methylparaben 0,200 Propylparäben 0,150 Ascorbyl palmitate 0,100 Magnesium sulphates 0,600 Aqua 48,700
  • the preparation is carried out in analogy to the above examples - here we the magnesium stearate intensively dispersed in silicone oil - otherwise the procedure is as described in Example 1.
  • the result is a white cream-like preparation that leaves on the lips a transparent film with a pleasant cooling effect.
  • the formulation has a zero viscosity of 685,000 Pas.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une préparation, en particulier une préparation cosmétique sous forme d'une pâte malléable, se présentant en émulsion, et convenant pour des applications en cosmétique, en particulier dans le domaine de la cosmétique de décoration, pour la coloration et l'embellissement de la peau, des lèvres et des paupières. Elle peut également servir de fixateur pour rouge à lèvres, de soin pour les lèvres, de base pour les soins de la peau, et d'agent de protection solaire. Elle renferme un composant ester, un émulsifiant approprié, une huile aux silicones volatile, éventuellement, un agent humidifiant, une phase solide et de l'eau. Elle peut en outre contenir des additifs et adjuvants habituellement utilisés et autorisés en cosmétique. L'invention concerne en outre un procédé de production de ladite préparation.

Claims (42)

  1. Préparation sous la forme d'une émulsion présentant une phase externe lipophile et une phase interne hydrophile, dans laquelle la phase externe contient au moins un ester polyvalent, au moins une silicone volatile et éventuellement d'autres additifs lipophiles usuels en cosmétique, et la phase interne contient un milieu aqueux et éventuellement des additifs hydrophiles usuels en cosmétique, dans laquelle la préparation contient en outre un émulsifiant et une phase solide, dans laquelle l'ester polyvalent est composé d'alcools au moins divalents avec respectivement au moins deux radicaux acide, ou d'acides au moins divalents et de respectivement au moins deux radicaux alcool, ou d'alcools polyvalents et d'acides polyvalents, dans laquelle la longueur de chaîne de radicaux provenant de l'alcool est en C2 à C60, et la longueur de chaîne des radicaux provenant de l'acide est en C4 à C60, dans laquelle l'ester présente un point de fusion dans la gamme de 40 à 200 °C.
  2. Préparation, en particulier préparation cosmétique selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que l'ester polyvalent présente d'autres groupes fonctionnels sélectionnés parmi des groupes hydroxyle, carboxyle, amino, amide d'acide ou ester.
  3. Préparation selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que l'ester polyvalent est un composé de formule I:
    Figure imgb0004
     dans laquelle R est un radical hydrocarbure linéaire, ramifié ou cyclique comportant 1 à 8 atomes de carbone, W, X, Y et Z sont respectivement indépendamment les uns des autres -C(O)O-, -OC(O)-, -O-, -NR5 2 - NC(O)-, et chacun des radicaux R1, R2, R3, R4 et R5 représente indépendamment un radical hydrocarbure à chaîne longue linéaire ou ramifié.
  4. Préparation selon la revendication 3, caractérisée en ce que l'ester polyvalent est un composé de formule I dans laquelle W, X, Y et Z représentent respectivement un groupe ester, R représente C et au moins trois des radicaux R1, R2, R3 et R4 représentent respectivement indépendamment un radical alkyle en C6 à C24 et le quatrième radical est H ou représente un radical alkyle en C6 à C24.
  5. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que dans le composant ester, la somme des atomes de carbone des radicaux alcool et acide carboxylique est dans une gamme de 35 à 150.
  6. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'ester polyvalent est un ester de pentaérythritol.
  7. Préparation selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que l'ester de pentaérythritol est le tétramyristate, le tristéarate, le tétrastéarate, le triisostéarate, le tétraisostéarate, le tribéhénate, le tétrabéhénate, le tétra-(éthylhexyldodécanoate), le tri-(12-hydroxy)-stéarate, le tétra-(12-hydroxy)stéarate, le triérucate, le tétraérucate, le tétramélissinate de pentaérythritol, ou un mélange de ceux-ci.
  8. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient exclusivement des ingrédients pouvant être dérivés de plantes et/ou minéraux et/ou synthétiques et est en ce sens totalement exempte de substances qui dérivent d'animaux.
  9. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle présente en outre une cire présentant un point de goutte entre 50 et 200 °C, de préférence entre 60 et 150 °C, de façon particulièrement préférée entre 75 et 120°C.
  10. Préparation selon la revendication 7, caractérisée en ce que la cire présente tant au moins un radical alcool qu'au moins un radical acide carboxylique qui possède une fraction hydrocarbure linéaire ou ramifiée, saturée ou mono- ou polyinsaturée.
  11. Préparation selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce que la cire est un mélange de cire de candellila et de cire de carnauba.
  12. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'ester polyvalent est contenu dans une gamme de 0,5 à 20 % en poids, de préférence dans une gamme de 2 à 12 % en poids.
  13. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'huile de silicone volatile est sélectionnée parmi l'héxaméthylcyclotrisiloxane, l'octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthylcyclohexasiloxane, l'hexaméthyldisiloxane, l'octaméthyltrisiloxane, le décaméthyltétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthylpentasiloxane ou des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  14. Préparation selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce qu'est en outre contenue une huile de silicone non volatile dans une quantité inférieure à 5 % en poids.
  15. Préparation, en particulier préparation cosmétique selon la revendication 14, caractérisée en ce qu'il s'agit concernant l'huile de silicone d'une huile de silicone non volatile ou d'un mélange d'huiles de silicones non volatiles.
  16. Préparation selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce que la silicone non volatile est sélectionnée parmi des diméthylpolysiloxanes présentant différentes longueurs de chaîne et une viscosité différente ou des huiles de silicone arylées, comme des phényldiméthicones, des phényltriméthicones, des diphényldiméthicones ou des mélanges de celles-ci.
  17. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que l'émulsifiant est un émulsifiant eau/huile ou un mélange d'émulsifiant eau/huile et eau/silicone.
  18. Préparation selon la revendication 17, caractérisée en ce que l'émulsifiant est un émulsifiant eau/huile non ionogène.
  19. Préparation selon la revendication 18, caractérisée en ce que l'émulsifiant eau/huile non ionogène est sélectionné parmi le sesquioléate de sorbitane, le laurate de sorbitane, le stérol de soja, le soja-stérol de PEG-5, l'isostéarate de polyglycéryle 4, l'isostéarate de polyglycéryle-2-PEG-4, le sesquiisostéarate de polyglycéryle-2, la cétyl-PEG/PPG-diméthicone, le phosphate de trioléyle, le phosphate de trioleth-8, le phosphate de trilaureth-4 ou des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  20. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un agent de stabilisation.
  21. Préparation selon la revendication 20, caractérisé en ce que l'agent de stabilisation est un sel inorganique légèrement soluble dans l'eau.
  22. Préparation selon la revendication 21, caractérisé en ce que le sel inorganique légèrement soluble dans l'eau est sélectionné parmi le chlorure de sodium, le chlorure de potassium, le sulfate de sodium, le sulfate de magnésium ou des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  23. Préparation selon l'une des revendications 19 à 21, caractérisée en ce que l'agent de stabilisation est contenu dans la phase aqueuse dans une quantité de 0,05 à 3 % en poids, de préférence dans une quantité de 0,3 à 2 % en poids.
  24. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'un humectant est en outre contenu dans la phase aqueuse.
  25. Préparation selon la revendication 24, caractérisée en ce que l'humectant est sélectionné parmi le propylèneglycol, le dipropylèneglycol, le tripropylèneglycol, le butylèneglycol, la glycérine, la diglycérine, la triglycérine, le sorbitol, le mannitol, le xylitol, le glucose, le fructose, le saccharose, le carbamide (urée), l'acide lactique, l'acide citrique, l'acide pyrrolidonecarboxylique (PCA) ou des sels des acides cités, ou des mélanges des substances citées.
  26. Préparation selon l'une des revendications 24 ou 25, caractérisée en ce que l'humectant est contenu dans la phase aqueuse dans une quantité de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, de préférence dans une quantité de 1 à 3 % en poids.
  27. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que la phase solide présente des matières de charge, des substances d'effet et/ou des pigments inorganiques et/ou organiques ou leurs mélanges.
  28. Préparation selon la revendication 27, caractérisée en ce que la matière de charge est sélectionnée parmi le talc, le kaolin, l'amidon, l'amidon modifié, la poudre de polytétrafluoroéthylène, la poudre de nylon, le nitrure de bore, le stéarate de Mg, le stéarate de Ca, le stéarate de Sr, le stéarate de Zn ou leurs mélanges.
  29. Préparation selon la revendication 27 ou 28, caractérisée en ce que la phase solide est contenue dans des fractions en quantité dans une gamme de 0 à 40 % en poids, de préférence de 5 à 30 % en poids, de façon particulièrement préférée de 8 à 20 % en poids.
  30. Préparation selon la revendication 27, caractérisée en ce que le pigment inorganique est un nanopigment présentant une taille de particules de 5 à 50 nm, sélectionné parmi le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, l'oxyde de zirconium, l'oxyde de cérium, l'oxyde d'aluminium, le dioxyde de silicium ou leurs mélanges.
  31. Préparation selon la revendication 30, caractérisée en ce que le nanopigment est contenu dans une quantité de 2 à 20 % en poids, de préférence dans une quantité de 5 à 10 % en poids.
  32. Préparation selon l'une des revendications 30 à 31, caractérisée en ce que le nanopigment est combiné à des substances filtrant la lumière UVA et UVB solubles dans l'huile.
  33. Préparation selon la revendication 32, caractérisée en ce que les substances filtrant la lumière UVA et UVB solubles dans l'huile sont le 4-méthylbenzylidène-camphre et le p-méthoxycinnamate d'isoamyle.
  34. Préparation selon la revendication 27, caractérisée en ce que le pigment inorganique est le dioxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc, l'oxyde de fer, l'oxyde de chrome, l'oxyde de chrome hydraté, l'ultramarine, le bleu de Berlin (bleu ferrique), le mica, un mica enrobé de dioxyde de titane, un mica enrobé de dioxyde de titane et d'oxydes métalliques, l'oxychlorure de bismuth, l'oxychlorure de bismuth enrobé, une poudre métallique d'aluminium en paillettes, le laiton, le bronze, le cuivre, l'argent, l'or, ou des mélanges de ceux-ci.
  35. Préparation selon la revendication 27, caractérisée en ce que le pigment organique est présent sous la forme de formations de colorants organiques avec de l'aluminium, du baryum, du calcium, du strontium, du zirconium et leurs mélanges.
  36. Préparation, en particulier préparation cosmétique selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est appropriée dans le secteur de la cosmétique de maquillage pour soigner, colorer et embellir la peau, les lèvres et les paupières.
  37. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est un rouge à lèvres, un rouge à joues, du maquillage, des ombres à paupières, un produit correcteur ou un cache-cernes.
  38. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est un moyen pour stabiliser le baume à lèvres ou le rouge à lèvres, une base de soin un agent de soin de la peau ou un agent de protection solaire.
  39. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est une pâte souple sous la forme d'une émulsion eau-dans-silicone, présentant une viscosité complexe de 800 à 6 000 Pas et une viscosité à cisaillement nul de 200 000 à 1 200 000 Pas, de préférence de 400 000 à 900 000 Pas (vitesse de cisaillement pour la viscosité à cisaillement nul 0,00005 s-1, température 298,15 K).
  40. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce quelle est placée dans des flacons ou bouteilles, des pots et des tubes refermables.
  41. Préparation selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est placée dans un mécanisme distributeur refermable.
  42. Procédé de fabrication d'une préparation selon l'une des revendication 1 à 41, dans lequel la phase particulaire est d'abord dispersée dans la silicone volatile, séparément les composants ester sont fondus et les ingrédients hydrophobes sont ajoutés, dans une préparation séparée la phase aqueuse est chauffée à la température des composants ester et les ingrédients hydrophiles sont ajoutés, puis toutes les trois préparations sont réunies, homogénéisées puis refroidies, et éventuellement, dès que l'émulsion a atteint environ la température corporelle, les composants sensibles à la température, comme les substances odorantes, sont ajoutés.
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DE102005020583.6A DE102005020583B4 (de) 2004-09-06 2005-05-03 Zubereitung, insbesondere kosmetische Zubereitung sowie ihre Verwendung
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