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EP1257253A2 - Preparations cosmetiques contenant des extraits vegetaux - Google Patents

Preparations cosmetiques contenant des extraits vegetaux

Info

Publication number
EP1257253A2
EP1257253A2 EP01907540A EP01907540A EP1257253A2 EP 1257253 A2 EP1257253 A2 EP 1257253A2 EP 01907540 A EP01907540 A EP 01907540A EP 01907540 A EP01907540 A EP 01907540A EP 1257253 A2 EP1257253 A2 EP 1257253A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
plant
acid
extracts
extract
mourera fluviatilis
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP01907540A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gilles Pauly
Philippe Moser
Olga Freis
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
BASF Health and Care Products France SAS
Original Assignee
Cognis France SAS
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cognis France SAS filed Critical Cognis France SAS
Publication of EP1257253A2 publication Critical patent/EP1257253A2/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A61P17/16—Emollients or protectives, e.g. against radiation
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P29/00—Non-central analgesic, antipyretic or antiinflammatory agents, e.g. antirheumatic agents; Non-steroidal antiinflammatory drugs [NSAID]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P39/00—General protective or antinoxious agents
    • A61P39/06—Free radical scavengers or antioxidants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P43/00—Drugs for specific purposes, not provided for in groups A61P1/00-A61P41/00
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to preparations containing special plant extracts and the use of these plant extracts in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, for example for skin treatment.
  • Plant extracts have been used in many different cultures for medical as well as for cosmetic purposes for many years. New plants are extracted again and again and the extracts are examined for their cosmetic effects in order to find other plants with a new or changed spectrum of activity. Many plants, the benefits of which were not yet known, and which were considered to be exotic and insignificant, are widely used today, among others, in cosmetics.
  • Cosmetic preparations are available to the consumer in a variety of combinations today. Not only is it expected that these cosmetics have a certain nourishing effect or remedy a certain deficiency, but more and more often products are required that have several properties at the same time and thus show an improved range of services.
  • substances that both positively influence the technical properties of the cosmetic product such as storage stability, light stability and formulability, and at the same time represent active ingredients that have nourishing, moisturizing, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory and / or light-protective properties for the skin and / or hair convey. Good skin tolerance and the use of natural products by the customer are particularly important.
  • the object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which meet the requirements for cosmetic formulations, such as storage stability and skin tolerance, and additionally improved moisture-regulating, nourishing and protective properties for human skin and / or hair have.
  • Another task has been to obtain plant extracts from plants that were previously unknown for cosmetic use and to make their ingredients usable as active ingredients in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • the invention relates to extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • plant means both whole plants and parts of plants (leaves, flowers, roots) and mixtures thereof.
  • the extracts to be used according to the invention are obtained from plants of the Podostemaceae family and are extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • This plant is a filament family, which mainly occur in tropical, fast-flowing watercourses and waterfalls.
  • the plant is native to North-South America and French Guyana where it is also called "Coumarou salad”.
  • the plant has racemous inflorescences, the so-called inflorescences with double-coated bracts. These inflorescences contain 14 - 40 dust bags.
  • the extracts to be used according to the invention are produced by customary methods of extracting plants or parts of plants.
  • suitable conventional extraction methods such as maceration, remaceration, digestion, movement maceration, vortex extraction, ultrasound extraction, countercurrent extraction, percolation, repercolation, evacolation (extraction under reduced pressure), diacolation and solid-liquid extraction under continuous reflux , which is carried out in a Soxhlet extractor, which is familiar to a person skilled in the art and in principle all can be used, is exemplary of Hager's Handbook of Pharmaceutical Practice, (5th Edition, Vol. 2, pp. 1026-1030, Springer Verlag, Berlin- Heidelberg-New York 1991).
  • Fresh plants or parts of plants can be used as the starting material, but usually dried plants and / or parts of plants are used, which can be mechanically comminuted before extraction. All grinding methods known to the person skilled in the art are suitable here, for example crushing with a mortar.
  • Organic solvents water (distilled or non-distilled, preferably hot water at a temperature above 80 ° C.) or mixtures of organic solvents and water, in particular low molecular weight alcohols, esters, hydrocarbons, ketones or halogen-containing hydrocarbons, can preferably be used as solvents for carrying out the extractions with more or less high water contents. Extraction with water, methanol, ethanol, pentane, hexane, heptane, acetone, propylene glycols, polyethylene glycols, ethyl acetate, dichloromethane, trichloromethane and mixtures thereof is particularly preferred.
  • the extraction is usually carried out at 20 to 100 ° C, preferably at 30 to 90 ° C, in particular at 60 to 85 ° C.
  • the extraction takes place under an inert gas atmosphere to avoid oxidation of the ingredients of the extract.
  • the extraction times are set by the person skilled in the art depending on the starting material, the extraction process, the extraction temperature, the ratio of solvent to raw material, etc.
  • the crude extracts obtained can be subjected to further customary steps, such as purification, concentration and / or decolorization. If desired, the extracts produced in this way can, for example, be subjected to a selective separation of individual undesirable ingredients.
  • the extraction can be carried out to any desired degree of extraction, but is usually carried out until exhaustion.
  • the present invention includes the knowledge that the extraction conditions and the yields of the final extracts can be selected depending on the desired field of use. If desired, the extracts can then be subjected to spray drying or freeze drying, for example.
  • the invention furthermore relates to cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which contain an extract of the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • Cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations based on the Mourera fluviatilis plant show surprisingly good nourishing and protective properties for skin and hair, against stress and environmental influences, and at the same time good skin tolerance. Furthermore, the preparations obtained in this way are good moisture-regulating moisturizers for the skin. The preparations obtained in this way are furthermore distinguished by a high antioxidative capacity, which on the one hand protects the skin from inflammatory reactions and against oxidative skin aging processes, and on the other hand the cosmetic ones Protected against oxidative degradation (spoilage). In addition, the products obtained in this way are suitable for counteracting the damage to human fibroblasts and keratinocytes by UV radiation and can therefore be used as a sunscreen in cosmetics.
  • the amount of plant extracts used in the preparations mentioned depends on the concentration of the individual ingredients and on the manner in which the extracts are used. In general, 0.01 to 25 parts by weight 0 / ", in particular 0.03 to 10, and especially 0.1 to 5 wt .-% of the plant extract - réelle on the final cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical compositions employed, with the proviso that the amounts stated add up to 100% by weight with further auxiliaries and additives and with water.
  • the total proportion of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50, preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the final preparation of the cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations.
  • the preparations can be produced by customary cold or hot processes; the phase inversion temperature method is preferably used.
  • the extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant according to the invention generally contain ingredients from the group consisting of, saponins, flavone derivatives, sterols, triterpenes, xanthone derivatives and / or carotenoids. These are composed differently depending on the selected starting material and the selected extraction method.
  • saponins are understood to be those saponins which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant. In particular, it is a group of glycosides that form colloidal, soap-like solutions in water.
  • the saponins are divided into steroid saponins and triterpene saponins according to the type of their aglycones, the sapogenins.
  • flavone derivatives are to be understood as those which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • they are substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 2-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, where hydrogenation may already be present in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation in the 4- Position may already exist, and substitution products are understood to mean the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxyl or methoxy groups.
  • This definition therefore includes flavans, flavan-3-oles (catechins), flavan-3,4-diols (leucoanthocyanidins), flavones, flavonols and flavanones in the conventional sense.
  • sterols are to be understood as steroids which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • they are steroids that only have a hydroxyl group at C-3, but otherwise no functional group, that is to say formally alcohols.
  • triterpenes are understood to mean those triterpenes which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • the triterpenes according to the invention can be formally understood as polymerization products of the hydrocarbon isoprene.
  • the triterpenes (C30) are formed from three isoprene residues. Different polycyclic ring systems for the possible triterpenes can be derived from different folding options of the three isoprene residues.
  • the cyclization preferably gives 6 rings, in addition to most tetra- (e.g. cucurbitacins) and some pentacyclic (e.g. Lupane) triterpenes 5-rings. Since the 6-rings are in the form of armchairs and tubs, the 5-rings can be flat or angled, many different scaffolds are possible.
  • xanthone derivatives are to be understood as those which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant. These are derivatives of dibenzo-gamma-pyrone.
  • the xanthone derivatives are referred to synonymously as 9-xanthenone derivatives.
  • the xanthone derivatives according to the invention are preferably 6-deoxyjacareubin and / or trapezium xanthone.
  • the 9-xanthenones can furthermore preferably be present as hydroxy- and / or methoxy-substituted xanthenones, such as, for example, gentian acid.
  • the majority of the derivatives of the xanthones are light yellow in color and have a light blue fluorescence.
  • carotenoids are to be understood as those which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant.
  • they are substances that are chemically considered 11 to 12 times unsaturated tetraterpenes with a basic structure with 9 conjugated Double bonds, 8 methyl branches (including the possible ring structures) and a ß-ionon ring structure at one end of the molecule, while they differ in the structure of the other end of the molecule.
  • Typical carotenoids are, for example, ⁇ -carotene or provitamin A, ⁇ -carotene, lutein, cryptoxanthin, zeaxanthin and lycopene.
  • the extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant contain minerals in the form of salts of the alkali or alkaline earth metals.
  • the predominant metals are sodium, potassium or calcium.
  • the alkali or alkaline earth metals occur in the form of their salts, but predominantly in the form of their halides, oxides or hydroxides, phosphates, carbonates, sulfates or nitrates.
  • the present invention includes the finding that particularly effective cosmetic agents are obtained by the interaction of the ingredients of the plant extracts, in particular the abovementioned.
  • Care products for the purposes of the invention are care products for skin and hair. These care products include, among other things, cleaning and building effects as well as moisture-regulating and UV light protection properties.
  • the extracts according to the invention can be used in all cosmetic products. Examples of cosmetic products are described in their formulations in Table 7 to Table 15.
  • the aim of hair care is to maintain the natural state of freshly regrown hair for as long as possible or to restore it if it is damaged.
  • Characteristics of natural healthy hair are silky shine, low porosity, resilient yet soft fullness and a pleasantly smooth feeling (good "grip").
  • the care products according to the invention have a smoothing effect on the hair, they improve combability, reduce the electrostatic charge and improve the feel and shine.
  • the preparations according to the invention show an excellent skin-care effect with high skin tolerance at the same time. In addition, they show good stability, in particular against oxidative decomposition of the products.
  • moisture-regulating humectants are to be understood as skin care products which serve to regulate the moisture of the skin. This corresponds in the sense of the invention the definition of a moisturizer. It is substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations the property of reducing the moisture release of the stratum corneum (horny layer) after application and distribution on the skin surface.
  • the humectants according to the invention contain extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant. Additional humectants, for example, may be present as further humectants in combination with the plant extract, such as:
  • Polyglycerol fatty acid esters based on fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms e.g. Tetraglyceryl monooleate, triglyceryl diisostearate;
  • Another object of the invention is the use of the extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant in sunscreens.
  • Sunscreens or UV light protection factors in the sense of the invention are light protection agents which are useful for protecting human skin against the damaging effects of direct and indirect radiation from the sun.
  • the sun's ultraviolet radiation responsible for tanning the skin is divided into the sections UV-C (wavelengths 200-280 nm), UV-B (280-315 nm) and the like.
  • UV-A (315 ⁇ 100 nm).
  • UV-B The pigmentation of normal skin under the influence of solar radiation, i.e. H. the formation of melanins is UV-B u.
  • UV-A causes different. Irradiation with UV-A rays ("long-wave UV") results in the darkening of the melanin bodies already present in the epidermis, without any harmful effects being recognizable. This is different with the so-called “short-wave UV” (UV-B) , This causes the development of so-called late pigment through the formation of new melanin grains.
  • UV-B short-wave UV
  • the skin is exposed to unfiltered radiation, which - depending on the duration of exposure - leads to the formation of reddened skin (erythema), skin inflammation (sunburn) and the like. can even cause blisters.
  • Extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant are used as UV absorbers or light filters, which convert the UV radiation into harmless heat. These can also be present in combination with other sunscreens or UV light protection factors.
  • UV light protection factors are, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) present at room temperature which are capable of blocking ultraviolet rays absorb and release the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat.
  • UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:
  • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate;
  • esters of cinnamic acid preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isoamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene);
  • esters of salicylic acid preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester;
  • benzophenone preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;
  • esters of benzalmalonic acid preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate
  • Triazine derivatives e.g. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy) -1, 3,5-triazine and octyl triazone as described in EP 0818450 A1 or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ® HEB);
  • Propane-1,3-dione e.g. 1 - (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione;
  • UVA filters '-methoxydibenzoyl-methane
  • 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1, 3-dione and enamine compounds as described for example in DE 19712033 A1 (BASF).
  • the UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.
  • insoluble light protection pigments namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose.
  • suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof.
  • Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts.
  • the oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions.
  • the particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferred have between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs from the spherical shape in some other way.
  • the pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized.
  • Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides such as titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or dimethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the overview by P.Finkel in S ⁇ FW Journal 122, 543 (1996) and Perfumery and Cosmetics 3 (1999), page 11ff.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant in agents against damage to fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes by UVA radiation and / or UVB radiation and as anti-inflammatory additives.
  • MDA malonic aldehyde
  • the extracts of the plant Mourera fluviatilis according to the invention significantly reduce the level of MDA in human fibroblasts which is induced by UVA rays and thus show a high capacity to reduce the harmful effects of oxidative stress on the skin.
  • UVB rays trigger inflammation by activating an enzyme, namely phospholipase A2 or PLA2.
  • This inflammation is triggered by the removal of arachidonic acid from the phospholipids of the plasma membrane by the phospholipase.
  • the level of release of the cytoplasmic enzyme LDH (lactate dehydrogenase) in human keratinocytes serves as a marker for cell damage.
  • the extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant according to the invention reduce the effect of UVB radiation on the number of keratinocytes and on the content of released LDH.
  • the extracts therefore show the ability to reduce the damage to cell membranes caused by UVB radiation.
  • extracts according to the invention as anti-inflammatory additives is in principle possible for all cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations which are used for inflammation of the skin and thus in skin care.
  • the inflammation of the skin can have a variety of causes.
  • Another object of the invention is the use of extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant as antioxidants or radical scavengers.
  • Antioxidants for the purposes of the invention are oxidation inhibitors which can be isolated from the Mourera fluviatilis plant. Antioxidants are able to inhibit or prevent the undesirable changes in the substances to be protected caused by the effects of oxygen and other oxidative processes. The effect of the antioxidants is mostly that they act as a radical scavenger for the free radicals that occur during autoxidation.
  • antioxidants In addition to using extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant as antioxidants, other known antioxidants can also be used.
  • further typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, alanine, arginine, serine, threonine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D.
  • -Camosin L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene, lutein) or their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose , Propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g.
  • thioredoxin glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, ⁇ -linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g.
  • buthioninsulfoximines homo cysteine sulfoximine, butioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to ⁇ mol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. ⁇ -hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), ⁇ -hydroxy acids (e.g.
  • Citric acid lactic acid, malic acid
  • humic acid bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, boldin, boldo extract, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives
  • unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives e.g. ⁇ -linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid
  • folic acid and their derivatives Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives
  • vitamin C and derivatives e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate
  • tocopherols and derivatives e.g.
  • vitamin E acetate
  • vitamin A and derivatives vitamin A palmitate
  • coniferyl benzoate of benzoin Rutinic acid and its derivatives, ⁇ -glycosylrutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, camosin, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, Trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives (e.g. ZnO, ZnS0 4 ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g.
  • the UV light protection factors or antioxidants can be added in amounts of 0.01 to 25, preferably 0.03 to 10 and in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on the total amount in the preparations.
  • the extracts according to the invention can be used in cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations, such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, sunscreens, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments can be used.
  • cosmetic and / or pharmaceutical preparations such as hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels, lotions, sunscreens, alcoholic and aqueous / alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax / fat masses, stick preparations, powders or ointments can be used.
  • These preparations can furthermore contain, as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants, oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active substances, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, Antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, insect repellents, self-tanners, tyrosine inhibitors (depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives, perfume oils, dyes and the like.
  • mild surfactants oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency agents, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic active substances, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, Antiperspirants, antidandruff
  • Auxiliaries and additives with surface activity may contain anionic, nonionic, cationic and / or amphoteric or amphoteric surfactants, the proportion of which is usually about 1 to 70, preferably 5 to 50 and in particular 10 to 30% by weight .
  • anionic surfactants are soaps, alkyl benzene sulfonates, alkane sulfonates, olefin sulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, ⁇ -methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, fatty acid ether sulfates, hydroxymischog sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sulfate, hydroxymischogether sulfate sul
  • anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • Typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylated triglycerides, mixed ethers or mixed formals, optionally partially oxidized alk (en) yl oligoglycosides or especially glucoramide acid vegetable derivatives, fatty acid glucoronic acid protein derivatives, and fatty acid glucoramides Wheat base), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters, sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides.
  • nonionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, they can have a conventional, but preferably a narrow, homolog distribution.
  • cationic surfactants are quaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example, dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines. Both The surfactants mentioned are exclusively known compounds.
  • Typical examples of particularly suitable mild, ie particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and / or protein fatty acid condensates, preferably based on wheat proteins.
  • Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ⁇ -C ⁇ fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-Ci3 carboxylic acids with linear come, for example, as oil bodies C6-C22 fatty alcohols, such as Myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, tribehenate stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, Stearylbe-, Stearyleruc
  • esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of Ci8-C38 alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C6-C22 fatty alcohols cf.
  • dioctyl malates esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ⁇ -CiQ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ⁇ -Ci ⁇ fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C2-C12 dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C6-C22 fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates, esters of Be nzo acid
  • Finsolv® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, e.g. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types etc.
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons e.g. such as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • Suitable emulsifiers are nonionic surfactants from at least one of the following groups: > Adducts of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear fatty alcohols with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms, with alkylphenols with 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and Alkylamines with 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;
  • Partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight 400 to 5000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside) and polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) / or unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or hydroxycarboxylic acids with 3 to 18 carbon atoms and their adducts with 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide;
  • Block copolymers e.g. Polyethylene glycol 30 dipolyhydroxystearate;
  • Polymer emulsifiers e.g. Pemulen types (TR-1, TR-2) from Goodrich;
  • adducts of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or with castor oil are known, commercially available products. These are mixtures of homologs whose average degree of alkoxylation is the ratio of the amounts of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide and substrate, with which the addition reaction is carried out.
  • Ci2 / i8 fatty acid monoesters and diesters of adducts of ethylene oxide with glycerol are known from DE 2024051 PS as refatting agents for cosmetic preparations.
  • Alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides their preparation and their use are known from the prior art. They are produced in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols with 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • glycoside residue both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar residue is glycosidically bonded to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides with a degree of oligomerization of up to preferably about 8 are suitable.
  • the degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean value which is based on a homolog distribution customary for such technical products.
  • Suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid diglyceride hydroxy, isostearic acid, Isostearinklarediglycerid, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, Ricinolklaremoglycerid, Ricinolklarediglycerid, Linolklaremonoglycerid, linoleic acid diglyceride, LinolenTalkremonoglycerid, Linolenchurediglycerid, Erucaklaklamonoglycerid, erucic acid diglyceride, rid Weinchuremonoglycerid, Weinklarediglycerid, Citronenklamonoglycerid, Citronendiglyce-, Malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and their technical mixtures, which may still contain minor amounts of triglyceride from the manufacturing process. Addition products of 1 to 30, preferably 5 to
  • polyglycerol esters are polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearates (Dehymuls® PGPH), polyglycerol-3-diisostearates (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4 isostearates (Isolan® Gl 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleates, diisostearoyl polyglyearylate-3 (Isolan® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care® 450), Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Bellina®), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010 / 90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane® NL) , Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (Cremophor® GS 32) and Polyglyceryl Polyricinoleate (Admul® WOL 1403) Polyglyceryl Dimerate Is
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylolpropane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, taig fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like which are optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants can also be used as emulsifiers.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds that contain at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and one sulfonate group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut acylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylm -hydroxyethylimidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or Acyl group and the coconut acylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate
  • Suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic surfactants.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ⁇ / i ⁇ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -S ⁇ 3H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each with about 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and Ci2 / i8-acylsarcosine.
  • cationic surfactants are also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the ester quat type, preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine ester salts, being particularly preferred.
  • Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. Solid or liquid vegetable or animal products, which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids, come as waxes, among others. natural waxes, e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, microfax waxes chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), e.g.
  • natural waxes e.g. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japanese wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax,
  • Montanester waxes Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as Polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question.
  • fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives.
  • lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the art as phosphatidylcholines (PC) and follow the general formula II.
  • R typically represents linear aliphatic hydrocarbon radicals with 15 to 17 carbon atoms and up to 4 cis double bonds.
  • lecithins include the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids, and derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3- represent phosphoric acids.
  • phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats.
  • sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.
  • Pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; Fatty acid alkanolamides, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms
  • Suitable consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred.
  • Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates , (e.g.
  • Substances such as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides can be used as superfatting agents, the latter simultaneously serving as foam stabilizers.
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as e.g. Magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate are used.
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example, Luviquat® (BASF) Condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as, for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine® / Sandoz
  • Anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers include, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / isobomylacrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, non-crosslinked acrylamide acrylamide and polyethylenethacrylate acrylamide and non-crosslinked acrylamide / polyacrylamide acrylamide and non-crosslinked acrylamide and with polyesters, non-crosslinked acrylamide and polyammonyl acrylate, with non-crosslinked acrylamide acrylamide and polyamides Copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyr
  • Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones and amino-, fatty acid-, alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can be both liquid and resinous at room temperature.
  • Simethicones which are mixtures of dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates, are also suitable.
  • a detailed overview of suitable volatile silicones can also be found by Todd et al. in Cosm.Toil. 91, 27 (1976).
  • Biogenic active substances are, for example, tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, deoxyribonucleic acid, retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts and vitamin complexes.
  • Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or eliminate body odors.
  • Body odors arise from the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, whereby unpleasant smelling breakdown products are formed. Accordingly, deodorants contain active ingredients which act as germ-inhibiting agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers or odor maskers.
  • germ-inhibiting agents such as.
  • Esterase inhibitors are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen® CAT, Henkel KGaA, Düsseldorf / FRG).
  • the substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor.
  • esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester and zinc glycinate.
  • dicarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic
  • Suitable odor absorbers are substances that absorb odor-forming compounds and can retain them to a large extent. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components and thus also reduce their speed of propagation. It is important that perfumes must remain unaffected. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain, for example, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as, for example, the main component. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. Fragrance agents or perfume oils act as odor maskers, which, in addition to their function as odor maskers, give the deodorants their respective fragrance.
  • Perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches as well as resins and balms. Animal raw materials, such as civet and castoreum, are also suitable. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether
  • the aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal
  • the ketones include, for example, the jonones and methylcedryl ketone
  • the alcohols are anethole, citronellellone Eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams.
  • fragrance oils also low Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavender oil.
  • Antiperspirants reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor.
  • Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients: astringent active ingredients,
  • non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.
  • Salts of aluminum, zirconium or zinc are particularly suitable as astringent antiperspirant active ingredients.
  • suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are e.g. Aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with propylene glycol-1, 2nd Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds, for. B. with amino acids such as glycine.
  • customary oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries can be present in smaller amounts in antiperspirants.
  • Such oil soluble aids can e.g. his:
  • Usual water-soluble additives are, for example, preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusters, for example buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, for example water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as, for example, xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.
  • Common film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and similar compounds.
  • Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (IH) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (Climbazole), Ketoconazol®, (4-acetyl-1 - ⁇ - 4- [2- (2.4- dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1, 3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ piperazine, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal, sulfur polyethyleneglycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinole polyhexoxate Sulfur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undexylene acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate sodium salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminum pyrithione and magnesium pyri
  • Montmorillonites, clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types can serve as swelling agents for aqueous phases. Further suitable polymers or swelling agents can be found in the overview by R. Lochhead in Cosm.Toil. 108, 95 (1993).
  • Possible insect repellents are N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate
  • Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner.
  • Arbutin, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) can be used as tyrosine inhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used in depigmenting agents.
  • Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior.
  • Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • Alkylene glycols such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons;
  • Methyl compounds such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms such as sorbitol or mannitol,
  • Aminosugars such as glucamine; > Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Ordinance.
  • Perfume oils include mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), Needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g.
  • the ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes e.g.
  • the linear alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, ⁇ -isomethyl ionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance.
  • Essential oils of lower volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • perfume oils e.g. Sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, ⁇ -hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, ß-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilllate, irot
  • the dyes which can be used are those substances which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as compiled, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Dyes” by the Dye Commission of the German Research Foundation, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81-106. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the overall preparation.
  • Another object of the invention is a method for producing an extract of the plant Mourera fluviatilis in which solvents or mixtures of these solvents are used to extract the plant, which are selected from the group formed by distilled or undistilled water, low molecular weight alcohols, Esters or hydrocarbons.
  • Example 1 300 g of dried Mourera fluviatilis plants were roughly crushed in a mortar, then transferred to a glass reactor and poured with 3 liters of distilled water. The infusion was heated between 80 and 85 ° C and extracted with stirring over a period of 1 h at this temperature. The mixture was then cooled to 20 ° C. and centrifuged for 15 minutes at a speed of 5000 g.
  • the supernatant colloidal liquid was separated from the residue by filtration on depth filters with an average porosity of 0.450 ⁇ m (from the company Seitz, Bordeaux France), 1.7 1 extract being obtained, which had a dry residue of 2.4% by weight ,
  • the brown colored extract was spray-dried at a starting temperature of 185 ° C and a final temperature of 80 C C.
  • the yield of dry product was 13.5% by weight, based on the dry weight of plants used.
  • Example 3 Example 1 was repeated, but the extraction was carried out with 3 1 80% by weight aqueous methanol. The extraction was carried out with stirring for 1 h at boiling temperature under reflux and the extract was further processed as described. The filtration was carried out as described in Example 1. The alcohol was then first removed at 45 ° C. under reduced pressure and then the green-brown residue was spray-dried as described. The yield of dry product was 15.9% by weight, based on the dry weight of plants used.
  • Example 4 Example 1 was repeated, but the extraction was carried out with 3 l 96% by weight aqueous ethanol. The extraction was carried out with stirring for 1 h at boiling temperature under reflux and the extract was further processed as described. The filtration was carried out as described in Example 1. Then the alcohol was first removed at 45 ° C. under reduced pressure and then the green residue was dried at 50 ° C. The yield of dry product was 4.9% by weight, based on the dry weight of plants used.
  • Example 5 260 g of the dried residue from Example 4 were transferred to a glass reactor and 2.6 l of distilled water were added. The infusion was further treated as described in Example 1. The brown colored extract was spray dried at an initial temperature of 185 ° C and a final temperature of 80 ° C. The yield of dry product was 12.5% by weight, based on the dry weight of the dried residue used.
  • the suitability of the extracts against oxidative stress was examined in a first series of tests.
  • the extracts according to Examples 1 to 5 were each used in concentrations of 0% w / v (weight per volume); 0.03% w / v and 0.1% w / v.
  • the hydroxylation of salicylic acid by hydroxyl radicals was examined as a reference system. This reaction can be examined photometrically since the hydroxylation product of salicylic acid is reddish in color.
  • the influence of the extracts on the formation of the hydoxysal icylic acid at an optical density of 490 nm was measured. The measurement results are summarized in Table 1; the degree of hydroxysalicylic acid formation is given in% absolute.
  • xanthine oxidase was chosen as the test system.
  • the enzyme causes the conversion of purine bases, such as, for example, adenine or guanine into uronic acid, the oxygen radicals formed as an intermediate being able to be detected by luminescence and reacted quantitatively by reaction with luminol.
  • the luminescence yield is reduced in the presence of substances with radical-trapping properties.
  • Example 7 Cell protection action against UVA on human fibroblasts grown in vitro
  • UVA rays penetrate into the dermis, where they lead to oxidation stress, which is demonstrated by lipoperoxidation of the cytoplasmic membranes.
  • the lipoperoxides are broken down to malonaldehyde, which will crosslink many biological molecules such as proteins and nucleic bases (enzyme inhibition or mutagenesis).
  • the culture medium was replaced by saline solution (physiological NaCl solution) and the fibroblasts were irradiated with a UVA dose (365 nm, 15 J / cm 2 ; Tubes: MAZDA FLUOR TFWN40).
  • the MDA level (malonaldialdehyde level) in the supernatant sodium chloride solution was determined quantitatively by reaction with thiobarbituric acid.
  • Example 8 Cell protection action against UVB on human keratinocytes grown in vitro
  • UVB rays trigger inflammation (erythema, edema) by activating an enzyme, namely phospholipase A2 or PLA2, which removes arachidonic acid from the phospholipids of the plasma membrane.
  • PGE2 the prostaglandins E2
  • LDH lactate dehydrogenase
  • a defined medium which contains fetal calf serum, was inoculated with the keratinocytes and the plant extract (diluted with saline solution) was added 72 hours after the inoculation.
  • the keratinocytes were then irradiated with a UVB dose (30 mJ / cm 2 - tubes: DUKE FL40E).
  • LDH content in the supernatant was determined.
  • the content of LDH- (lactate dehydrogenase) was determined by means of an enzyme reaction (kit used to investigate the LDH content by the company Röche).
  • the number of adherent keratinocytes is determined (after trypsin treatment) with a particle counter.
  • the strands of hair thus prepared were held in the solution with the respective test substance for 3 minutes and then rinsed out for 1 minute. After rinsing, the strands of hair were combed and their wet combability was tested. The tresses were dried at room temperature. The sensory tests were carried out on dry hair 24 hours after treatment with the extracts.
  • the table shows the results of sensory tests on wet and dry hair.
  • the sensory properties can be read in comparison to standardized strands of hair. The higher the number given, the better the assessment of the respective sensory property.
  • the horny layer (the stratum corneum) is found in the epidermis of human skin.
  • the stratum corneum is a dielectric medium with little electrical conduction.
  • the water content leads to increased dielectric conductivity and the determination of the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum can thus serve as a measure of the degree of moisture in human skin.
  • the increase in the dielectric conductivity of the stratum corneum reflects an increased level of moisture in the human skin.
  • hydrogel (Hydrogel LS from Laboratoire Serobi Liste LS) served as a placebo without the preparation described, that is to say without a plant extract.
  • the moisture-regulating activity of the preparation described above was determined as a percentage increase in the conductivity compared to the placebo treatment.
  • a dose-dependent moisture-regulating activity can be seen from the results.
  • Example 11 Example formulations of cosmetic compositions with extracts of the plants Mourera fluviatilis
  • the extracts of the Mourera fluviatilis plant obtained according to Examples 1 to 5 were used in the following formulations K1 to K21 and 1 to 40 according to the invention. Unless explicitly stated otherwise, each extract according to Examples 1 to 5 can be used.
  • the cosmetic compositions produced in this way showed very good skin-care properties and, at the same time, good skin tolerance compared to the comparison formulations V1, V2 and V3.
  • the agents according to the invention prove to be stable against oxidative decomposition.
  • Glycerin (86% by weight) 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0
  • Extracts from Mourera fluviatilis (Example 1-4) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 •
  • Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
  • Mourera fluviatilis extract 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 -
  • Glycerin (86% by weight) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0
  • Deoxyribonucleic acid molecular weight approx. 70000, purity (determined by spectrophotometric measurement of the absorption at 260 nm and 280 nm): at least 1, 7.
  • Cosmetic preparations conditioner water, preservative ad 100% by weight
  • Cosmetic preparations conditioner (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)
  • Table 12 Cosmetic preparations shampoo (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)
  • Table 14 Cosmetic preparations bubble bath (water, preservative ad 100 wt .-%)
  • Table 15 Cosmetic preparations (water, preservative ad 100% by weight)

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des extraits de Mourera fluviatilis ainsi que des préparations cosmétiques et/ou pharmaceutiques contenant un extrait de Mourera fluviatilis.
EP01907540A 2000-02-25 2001-02-16 Preparations cosmetiques contenant des extraits vegetaux Withdrawn EP1257253A2 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0002425 2000-02-25
FR0002425A FR2805464B1 (fr) 2000-02-25 2000-02-25 Preparations cosmetiques contenant des extraits de la plante mourera fluviatilis
PCT/EP2001/001725 WO2001062223A2 (fr) 2000-02-25 2001-02-16 Preparations cosmetiques contenant des extraits vegetaux

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EP1257253A2 true EP1257253A2 (fr) 2002-11-20

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US (1) US20030129150A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP1257253A2 (fr)
JP (1) JP2003524650A (fr)
KR (1) KR20030005206A (fr)
CN (1) CN1404387A (fr)
AU (1) AU2001235480A1 (fr)
BR (1) BR0108564A (fr)
FR (1) FR2805464B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2001062223A2 (fr)

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FR2834210B1 (fr) * 2002-01-03 2004-02-27 Clarins Lab Composition cosmetique pour lutter contre le vieillissement cutane
FR2834211B1 (fr) * 2002-01-03 2004-06-04 Clarins Lab Composition cosmetique pour lutter contre le vieillissement cutane
KR20040020092A (ko) * 2002-08-29 2004-03-09 주식회사 엘지생활건강 피부 보습용 조성물 및 이를 포함하는 화장료
US20070190019A1 (en) * 2003-06-23 2007-08-16 Chunfeng Guo Compositions and methods for topical administration
CA2553690C (fr) 2004-01-22 2016-05-24 Sung Lan Hsia Formulations topiques de coenzyme q10 et procedes d'utilisation
US7311896B2 (en) * 2004-02-05 2007-12-25 Mmi Corporation Natural sunscreen compositions and processes for producing the same
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Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
KR20030005206A (ko) 2003-01-17
FR2805464B1 (fr) 2003-02-14
US20030129150A1 (en) 2003-07-10
WO2001062223A3 (fr) 2001-12-27
WO2001062223A2 (fr) 2001-08-30
JP2003524650A (ja) 2003-08-19
BR0108564A (pt) 2002-12-03
FR2805464A1 (fr) 2001-08-31
CN1404387A (zh) 2003-03-19
AU2001235480A1 (en) 2001-09-03

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