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EP0690708A1 - Composition cosmetique - Google Patents

Composition cosmetique

Info

Publication number
EP0690708A1
EP0690708A1 EP94901923A EP94901923A EP0690708A1 EP 0690708 A1 EP0690708 A1 EP 0690708A1 EP 94901923 A EP94901923 A EP 94901923A EP 94901923 A EP94901923 A EP 94901923A EP 0690708 A1 EP0690708 A1 EP 0690708A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
surfactant
cells
gas
gas cells
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
EP94901923A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Rodney David Bee
David Needham
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Unilever PLC
Unilever NV
Original Assignee
Unilever PLC
Unilever NV
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Unilever PLC, Unilever NV filed Critical Unilever PLC
Priority to EP94901923A priority Critical patent/EP0690708A1/fr
Publication of EP0690708A1 publication Critical patent/EP0690708A1/fr
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K9/00—Medicinal preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K9/10—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K9/12—Aerosols; Foams
    • A61K9/122—Foams; Dry foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q11/00—Preparations for care of the teeth, of the oral cavity or of dentures; Dentifrices, e.g. toothpastes; Mouth rinses
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair

Definitions

  • This invention relates to cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions, in particular aerated pastes, creams and lotions intended for topical application to the skin, hair, mucosae and teeth.
  • a problem encountered with many products, including cosmetic compositions, containing gas cells is the stability with time: this is because a gas cell dispersion comprising large cells is vulnerable to creaming separation of the dispersion into discrete layers of different gas phase volume, the larger cells in the high gas phase volume layer will coalesce through film rupture, while the smaller gas cells, say under 100 ⁇ m, are unstable with time, due to disproportionation in favour of larger cells and this is in particular true if the gas cells become finer.
  • US4,588,582 discloses modifying the appearance of toothpaste by incorporation therein of 10 to 20% of a gas in the form of discrete bubbles having a diameter in the range of from 10 to 30 microns to give stability.
  • EP 521 543 describes gas cells dispersed in a continuous liquid medium in a stable condition, ie having a stability in excess of two weeks, the gas cells having a measured d3,2 average diameter of less than 20 ⁇ m.
  • the boundary surface of each cell that is the surface separating the gas of each cell and the rest of the product, is preferably structured and comprises a multitude of adjacent domes. Specific stability is obtained if the great majority of the domes have hexagonal and some pentagonal outlines. Usually, some irregularities, for example higher polygons, are present amongst the domed structures. These polygons can be of very irregular shape.
  • the regular domed surface is absent and may then be smooth or buckled.
  • Gas cells of a good stability with respect to creaming and disproportionation are obtained when the cells have diameters in the range from 0.1 to 20 ⁇ m and more preferably from 0.5 to 3 ⁇ m. Diameter throughout this description and claims refers to a measured d3,2 (volume surface) average diameter.
  • liquid medium in this description and claims means any medium showing molecule mobility, ie including gels and viscous liquids.
  • a suitable method of preparing a multitude of gas cells in a liquid medium comprises whipping a liquid medium with a gas such that gas cells of the required dimension are formed while having a surface active agent contained in that liquid medium for stabilising the gas cells.
  • a gas such that gas cells of the required dimension are formed while having a surface active agent contained in that liquid medium for stabilising the gas cells.
  • sufficient shear should be exerted on the larger gas cells that initially are formed. Factors influencing this shear are the type of mixer or beater or whisk, the viscosity of the liquid medium and the temperature thereof.
  • a high shear, mixer such as a Kenwood Chef mixer, a colloid mill, an Oakes mixer, a cavity transfer mixer or a Silverson will be used.
  • a Kenwood Chef mixer By increasing the viscosity and/or lowering the temperature of the liquid medium the size reducing effect of the mixer on the gas cells is increased.
  • a Kenwood Chef mixer is used at room temperature a suitable dynamic viscosity of the liquid medium is preferably from 0.1 Pa.s to 20 Pa.s although the range of from 0.2 to 0.4 Pa.s is preferred.
  • this foam is then aged.
  • Stable gas, cells may then be separated from part of the liquid medium used for preparing the cells. Separation can be achieved by centrifuging or using a dialysis membrane after modifying the liquid phase of the gas cell suspension such as by dilution with a miscible fluid.
  • this gas cells ingredient in the compositions of the invention provides improved creaminess in texture, a whiter more opaque product and, dependent on components, enhanced fragrance, flavour, or improved skin or mouthfeel.
  • suspensions of gas cells prepared as described can be used to replace, or improve on, some of the attributes normally contributed by the oil/fat in cosmetic or pharmaceutical emulsions.
  • the invention provides a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition
  • a preformed gas cells ingredient comprising a surfactant, in which the gas cells have a d3,2 average particle size of less than 20 ⁇ m and a stability in excess of 2 weeks.
  • the invention is founded on the preparation of an ingredient comprising a large number of very stable gas cells of very small size. When such cells are present in bulk they will form about 10 8 to about 10 10 per ml. On incorporation of this ingredient into a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition, it is preferably distributed throughout the mass in the form of discrete cells so as to provide the benefits associated with their presence. However it must be expected that the cells are lilekly to form flocculates in the composition.
  • the stable gas cells whether present in discrete form or as flocculates, are distinguished from any gas cells of a larger size that may be present. The latter is not in the form of stable cells, but contributes most of the volume.
  • the gas cell number concentration in the composition will be above about 10 6 per ml, preferably above 10 7 per ml, with the number and size selected to provide the desired benefit.
  • the particle size of the gas cells is less than 20 ⁇ m, more preferred 0.1 to 10 ⁇ m, most preferred from 1 to 6 ⁇ m.
  • the gas cells ingredient for use in compositions of the invention have a stability in excess of 2 weeks. With this is meant that upon storage for 2 weeks at 4°C more than 90% by number of the gas cells in the composition still remain intact.
  • compositions, wherein the stability of the gas cells is more than 4 weeks, most preferably more than 8 weeks.
  • the gas cells ingredient can be prepared from a cosmetically acceptable surface active material suitable for the making of gas cells with structured surfaces, that is a surfactant whose head group does not carry a substantial charge, compared to that of an ionised anionic or cationic surfactant, and whose head group also occupies a similar surface area to that of the tail group, such that the tail group is capable of crystallising at the storage temperature of the composition.
  • the tail group of the surfactant is saturated and has a carbon chain of at least 14, preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, for products to be held at room temperature or slightly higher.
  • Suitable surfactants are nonionic or virtually so in character, for example mono-, di- or tri-long chain fatty acid esters of sucrose or distearoyl or dipalmitoyl phosphatidylcholine or mixtures thereof.
  • any suitable thickener may be present in the system while forming the stable gas cells.
  • suitable thickener materials are for example sugars, (hydroxy-alkyl) celluloses, hydrolysed starches and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions containing the gas cells in accordance to the invention it is desirable to prepare the gas cells in bulk separately and add these as an ingredient to the composition during or after its preparation.
  • a suitable method of pre-preparing the gas cells ingredient involves the preparation of an aqueous solution of the desired viscosity (for example by using a thickener material at a suitable level) and containing 0.1 to 20 wt% of surfactant (s).
  • surfactant s
  • the selection of the surfactant is critical to the subsequent stability of the gas cells. It is restricted to those providing the surface characteristics as described earlier.
  • Gas cells are mechanically incorporated into the aqueous solution and then comminuted by suitable agitation, preferably at high shear, until a system is formed wherein the average particle size of the gas cells is within the limits as herein before described.
  • gas cells according to the invention can if desired "be manufactured without the use of a separate component to contribute the principal part of the viscosity.
  • the cosmetic or pharmaceutical compositions of the invention into which the gas cells are incorporated, as a separate ingredient can be any composition which is suitable for topical application to the skin, hair, mucosae or the teeth.
  • the ingredients of such composition in addition to the gas cells will be those that are conventionally employed by manufacturers and formulations of cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions.
  • the gas cells can be employed to enhance delivery, during topical application, of active materials that can benefit the skin, hair, mucosae or teeth.
  • co-surfactants containing suitable lipid chains may be incorporated into the structured gas cell surface.
  • the co surfactant is molecularly dispersed within the interface.
  • the stable gas cells therefore provide a favourable vehicle both to hold and to deposit beneficial surface active species onto a surface.
  • beneficial surface active species such as ceramides may be included into and deposited from such structures.
  • the gas cells When the composition is in liquid or semi liquid form, the gas cells can be employed to enhance the appearance of the composition.
  • gas cells of the present invention scatter light very effectively. Consequently, a concentrated suspension for example, greater than 10 7 cells ml -1 when present in a suitable support medium can be used as a barrier to light radiation.
  • Such cells can be used to replace or augment organic sunscreens or solid inorganic pigments, such as ultra fine titanium dioxide, which are currently used in sunscreen creams and lotions.
  • the amount of gas cells that can usefully be incorporated into compositions in accordance with the invention, as a preformed gas cells ingredient is from 0.001 to 80%, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by volume of the composition.
  • aqueous solution was prepared containing 70% by wt of maltodextrin 63DE and 2% by wt of sucrose mono stearate ester. Using a Kenwood chef mixer this solution was whipped with air for l hour at speed 5. A thick creamy foam resulted.
  • This foam showed an air phase volume of 0.6 and the great majority of the gas cells had a diameter of the order of 2 ⁇ m and below. On standing for 40 days little visible change had occurred in these cells.
  • Electron microscopy photographs showed (see Figures 1 and 2) that the air cells had surfaces compartmentalised into domes, most of the domes having a hexagonal and some pentagonal outline. Few showed a differently polygonal outline: See in particular, Figure 2.
  • a representation showing part of a domed surface and made with the largest magnification factor is shown in Fig 3.
  • the foam as prepared could be diluted 1000 times with water resulting in a white milky liquid. The same result was obtained on 1000 times dilution with a 30% by wt aqueous maltodextrin 63DE solution. Though no longer suspended/dispersed in a thick viscous aqueous liquid the gas cells with diameters less than 5-10 ⁇ m remained in suspension, although with some creaming. This creaming could be reversed by simple stirring or swirling. No significant change took place over 20 days.
  • the gas cells could be concentrated again to a gas phase volume of 0.4 by centrifuging the diluted liquid in a centrifuge at a speed of 2500 rpm for 5 minutes.
  • the rate of concentration of the gas cells by centrifugation could be manipulated by varying the viscosity of the suspending phase and by the magnitude of the applied gravitational force.
  • the thick foam prepared by the method just described was diluted with distilled water to air phase volumes ⁇ of 0.1, 0.01 and 0.001 respectively. After standing for 14 days, gas cell size determinations were made both with a Coulter Counter (aperture size 70 ⁇ m) and a Malvern Zetasizer.
  • samples of each of the three amounts of diluted foams were taken after gently shaking and these samples were diluted with distilled water to a dilution suitable for the determination.
  • a blank gas cell size determination of distilled water resulted in a total background count from particulate impurities of 600.
  • An amount of the original foam was diluted with distilled water to an air phase volume of 0.05 and dialysed against distilled water overnight to reduce the maltodextrin in the liquid phase.
  • gas microcells had typical diameters in the range 1 to 10 ⁇ m.
  • the microcells could be seen to be freely mobile both in the flowing liquid on the microscope slide and to be moving under the influence of Brownian motion.
  • an increased proportion of gas microcells relative to larger cells could be formed.
  • the gas cell suspension After dilution to a viscosity which allowed removal of cells larger than the required size (in this case 20 ⁇ m) and separation by creaming, the gas cell suspension had a phase volume of gas of ⁇ 0.4 and contained in the region of 10 9 cells per ml. If required, excess surfactant could be removed by dialysis.
  • Gas microcells prepared in this way could be mixed with solutions containing a gelling or a viscosity imparting agent with appropriate yield strength properties to produce a suspension of known phase volume which is substantially stable to creaming of the cells. With suitable microbiological precautions the gas cell suspension remained unchanged over a period of many weeks.
  • Gas microcells have been prepared using a mixture of two types of surfactants having different head group sizes but the same or very similar saturated hydrophobic chains.
  • This experiment illustrates that microcells of substantial stability can be prepared by the addition of various amounts of co-surfactant(s) in which the characteristic surface dome features can be expanded such that the radius of the dome is modified to become more (or less) similar to that of the gas cell surface.
  • This can be illustrated by transmission electron micrograph ( Figure 4).
  • the sample was prepared by the procedure of Experiment 1 but from a composition of surfactants of sucrose ester (1.3 w/v) and stearic acid (0.07% w/v). In such microcells the regular pattern is disturbed. Whilst the cell surface remains curved and separated into domains, these are no longer regular.
  • PC phosphatidylcholine
  • a phase volume of typically 0.7 was obtained in the initial aeration step. After ageing for 24 hours the foam comprising microcells could be stripped of the larger cells by creaming.
  • Example 1 The invention is illustrated by Examples 1 and 2 which define skin cream compositions, each containing a preformed gas microcell suspension prepared as described in Experiment 1.
  • Example 1
  • This example illustrates an oil-in-water skin cream in accordance with the invention.
  • Alfol 16RD is cetyl alcohol
  • the suncare cream had the following formulation:
  • PARSOL 1789 is 4-(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4'- methoxydibenzoylmethane
  • PARSOL MCX is octyl methoxycinnamate

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Preparation (AREA)

Abstract

Composition cosmétique ou pharmaceutique à usage topique comportant des cellules gazeuses stables dont les dimensions moyennes des particules d3,2 sont inférieures à 20 νm.
EP94901923A 1992-12-02 1993-11-27 Composition cosmetique Withdrawn EP0690708A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP94901923A EP0690708A1 (fr) 1992-12-02 1993-11-27 Composition cosmetique

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP92311064 1992-12-02
EP92311064 1992-12-02
PCT/EP1993/003358 WO1994012145A2 (fr) 1992-12-02 1993-11-27 Composition cosmetique
EP94901923A EP0690708A1 (fr) 1992-12-02 1993-11-27 Composition cosmetique

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0690708A1 true EP0690708A1 (fr) 1996-01-10

Family

ID=8211569

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP94901923A Withdrawn EP0690708A1 (fr) 1992-12-02 1993-11-27 Composition cosmetique

Country Status (5)

Country Link
EP (1) EP0690708A1 (fr)
JP (1) JPH08503936A (fr)
AU (1) AU5629394A (fr)
CA (1) CA2150488A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO1994012145A2 (fr)

Families Citing this family (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3652549B2 (ja) * 1999-06-14 2005-05-25 株式会社コーセー 化粧料
WO2003082225A1 (fr) * 2002-03-28 2003-10-09 Hakuto Co., Ltd. Procede de stabilisation de mousse pour mousse cosmetique
CA2821061A1 (fr) 2010-12-28 2012-07-05 Unilever Plc Procede pour la production d'une emulsion
US9193852B2 (en) 2013-12-27 2015-11-24 L'oreal Stable aerated compositions

Family Cites Families (9)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE3141641A1 (de) * 1981-10-16 1983-04-28 Schering Ag, 1000 Berlin Und 4619 Bergkamen Ultraschall-kontrastmittel und dessen herstellung
GB8325954D0 (en) * 1983-09-28 1983-11-02 Unilever Plc Paste with entrained gas
US4684479A (en) * 1985-08-14 1987-08-04 Arrigo Joseph S D Surfactant mixtures, stable gas-in-liquid emulsions, and methods for the production of such emulsions from said mixtures
US5219538A (en) * 1987-03-13 1993-06-15 Micro-Pak, Inc. Gas and oxygen carrying lipid vesicles
DE3741201A1 (de) * 1987-12-02 1989-06-15 Schering Ag Ultraschallarbeitsverfahren und mittel zu dessen durchfuehrung
CH674804A5 (en) * 1988-02-05 1990-07-31 Battelle Memorial Institute Homogeneous stale cosmetic cream as light foam - contains dispersed fine bubbles of air or inert gas
IN172208B (fr) * 1990-04-02 1993-05-01 Sint Sa
WO1992005806A1 (fr) * 1990-10-05 1992-04-16 Sintetica S.A. Procede de preparation de suspensions stables pour microspheres creuses remplies de gaz et convenant a l'echographie par ultrasons
GB9111880D0 (en) * 1991-06-03 1991-07-24 Unilever Plc Forming minute gas cells in a liquid medium

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
See references of WO9412145A3 *

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CA2150488A1 (fr) 1994-06-09
JPH08503936A (ja) 1996-04-30
AU5629394A (en) 1994-06-22
WO1994012145A3 (fr) 1994-07-21
WO1994012145A2 (fr) 1994-06-09

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