EP0515733B1 - Trouser waistband - Google Patents
Trouser waistband Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0515733B1 EP0515733B1 EP91201244A EP91201244A EP0515733B1 EP 0515733 B1 EP0515733 B1 EP 0515733B1 EP 91201244 A EP91201244 A EP 91201244A EP 91201244 A EP91201244 A EP 91201244A EP 0515733 B1 EP0515733 B1 EP 0515733B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- stitching
- waistband
- lining
- trousers
- bias
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 5
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000014759 maintenance of location Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- YFXPPSKYMBTNAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N bensultap Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1S(=O)(=O)SCC(N(C)C)CSS(=O)(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 YFXPPSKYMBTNAV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 206010029216 Nervousness Diseases 0.000 description 3
- 230000002688 persistence Effects 0.000 description 2
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 2
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920002334 Spandex Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000001419 dependent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000012423 maintenance Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41F—GARMENT FASTENINGS; SUSPENDERS
- A41F9/00—Belts, girdles, or waistbands for trousers or skirts
- A41F9/02—Expansible or adjustable belts or girdles ; Adjustable fasteners comprising a track and a slide member
Definitions
- the invention relates to a pants belt of the so-called "English belt” type sewn into the upper part of stretch pants.
- the characteristics defined above combine to give the belt of the invention, at the same time, the attractive appearance of a traditional high-end belt, a remarkable longitudinal elasticity easily making it possible to gain a size for pants cut in a fabric of appropriate extensibility, and a persistence and nervousness ensuring a good maintenance and a return to the initial size whatever the duration of the port.
- the English belt shown by way of example in the figures is mounted on bi-stretch pants which can be seen partially at 1 in these figures.
- These pants are made in a classic way using a cotton, wool or polyester / wool fabric, incorporating a percentage of "elastane” which gives it stretch in both directions.
- These pants have pockets which have been shown diagrammatically on the right side at 2a in FIG. 3 and the reverse side at 2b in FIG. 2 (pocket bags).
- the English belt targeted by the invention comprises an elastic ribbon 3 which may in particular be constituted by a ribbon woven by means of an elastic yarn of gimped warp and a non-elastic weft yarn.
- the warp thread is in particular a gum thread covered by a polyester thread and mixed with a polyamide foam.
- the elastic tape 3 has a longitudinal elasticity between 50% and 200%, of the order of 100% in the above example.
- the external face of the elastic tape 3 (right side of the pants) is provided with a fabric band 4 called the external band, of the same nature as the pants.
- This external strip 4 overlaps the upper edge of the ribbon by a fold 4a which descends over a small fraction of the height of said ribbon.
- the legs of the pants 1 are previously sewn on the external strip 4 by an extensible seam in chain stitches 5 produced with a thread with a high percentage of extensibility.
- the internal face of the elastic ribbon 3 is covered with two strips of fabric, called upper lining 6 and lower lining 7.
- These bands are bias bands produced by weaving non-stretchable threads and bias cutting. In the example, these bands are cut at an angle in a chevron fabric and we can see the chevrons at 6a or 7a in Figure 2.
- the threads used to make these bias strips are for example 70% cotton threads, 30 % polyester; such strips have a longitudinal extensibility of between 15% and 30%, in particular of the order of 20%.
- the upper lining 6 and the lower lining 7, produced by means of said diagonal strips, are arranged to form two opposite folds which overlap as illustrated in FIG. 1; they are sewn on the elastic tape 3 by means of an extensible seam 8 called the middle seam, which crosses the ribbon and the overlapping edges of the linings, without affecting the external band 4.
- This seam 8 is a zig-zag stitching made with a wire with a high percentage of extensibility.
- the visible part of this middle seam can be provided with non-slip points such as 9 in order to limit the transverse sliding of the belt.
- the edge 6a of the upper lining 6 is advantageously folded (on the visible inner side) to perfect the aesthetics.
- the upper lining 6 is sewn at the top on the elastic tape 3 by an extensible upper seam 10, crossing the internal fold 4a of the external strip 4.
- This seam 6 is a seam produced in zigzag points by means of a thread with a high percentage of extensibility.
- the lower lining 7 has a floating part 7a which extends below the lower edge of the elastic tape.
- a low stretch seam 11 is produced at the chain stitching 5 (between pants 1 and external band 4) and fixes these elements on the elastic tape.
- This low seam 11 is preferably executed in knotted stitches by means of a thread with a high percentage of extensibility. As illustrated in FIG. 1, it can be made so as to pass through the lower lining 7 in order to stabilize the latter in the vicinity of the lower edge of the elastic tape 3. It is also possible in certain cases to leave the lining 7 completely floating , the seam 11 does not affect this lining.
- the floating part 7a of the lower lining is preferably linked to the pocket bags 2b by attachment points symbolized at 12 in FIGS. 1 and 2.
- Figure 4 illustrates the mounting of the English belt according to the invention on the pants 1.
- these elements are arranged flat and the edge of the band 4 is inserted between the ribbon 3 and the upper lining 6 until it locks against the center seam 8 of the belt.
- the upper seam 10 is then produced, then the band 4 and the pants 1 are folded down relative to the belt (arrow F).
- the lower seam 11 can then be executed, the points of attachment with the pocket bags then being produced.
- All the seams are executed by means of a thread with a high percentage of extensibility, for example polyester long fiber extensible thread, giving said seams a longitudinal extensibility of the order of 20%.
- the English belt according to the invention combines high aesthetic qualities, internal and external, allowing it to be worn on high-end pants, with remarkable qualities of elasticity, persistence and nervousness.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
- Medicines Containing Plant Substances (AREA)
- Massaging Devices (AREA)
- Addition Polymer Or Copolymer, Post-Treatments, Or Chemical Modifications (AREA)
Abstract
Description
L'invention concerne une ceinture de pantalon du type dite "ceinture anglaise" cousue en partie haute d'un pantalon extensible.The invention relates to a pants belt of the so-called "English belt" type sewn into the upper part of stretch pants.
Dans le but d'accroître leur confort, de nombreux pantalons sont réalisés en tissu extensible et ils doivent de préférence être dotés au niveau de la taille de ceinture extensible évitant un blocage qui leur ferait perdre leur qualité de confort. On connaît de nombreux types de ceintures anglaises extensibles ; ces ceintures comportent généralement un ruban élastique (type ruban de gomme) qui leur donne leur qualité d'extensibilité longitudinale (voir par exemple le brevet FR 2.196.130). Toutefois, ce ruban donne un aspect très inesthétique à la partie haute du pantalon ; pour accroître les qualités esthétiques, on a proposé d'envelopper le ruban élastique dans une gaine tubulaire qui le masque à la vue ; on pourra par exemple se reporter aux brevets suivants qui visent de telles ceintures : brevet FR 2.202.660, 2.355.470, brevets US 2.438.804, 3.761.966...In order to increase their comfort, many pants are made of stretch fabric and they should preferably be fitted at the waist with stretch belt to avoid blockage which would make them lose their quality of comfort. Many types of stretchy English belts are known; these belts generally include an elastic ribbon (rubber band type) which gives them their quality of longitudinal extensibility (see for example patent FR 2,196,130). However, this ribbon gives a very unsightly appearance to the upper part of the pants; to increase the aesthetic qualities, it has been proposed to wrap the elastic tape in a tubular sheath which masks it from view; we can for example refer to the following patents which relate to such belts: patent FR 2,202,660, 2,355,470, US patents 2,438,804, 3,761,966 ...
La présente invention se propose de perfectionner les ceintures existantes du type sus-évoqué. Elle vise à fournir une ceinture anglaise extensible qui associe les qualités suivantes :
- bonne élasticité de la ceinture, permettant de bénéficier pleinement des qualités d'extensibilité du pantalon,
- rémanence et nervosité satisfaisantes, assurant un maintien correct du pantalon,
- aspect traditionnel, haut de gamme, aussi bien du côté extérieur que du côté intérieur de la ceinture.
- good elasticity of the belt, making it possible to fully benefit from the stretch qualities of the pants,
- good afterglow and nervousness, ensuring proper support of the pants,
- traditional, high-end appearance, both on the outside and inside of the belt.
A cet effet, la ceinture anglaise de pantalon visée par l'invention, disposée en partie haute d'un pantalon extensible, est du type comprenant un ruban élastique, une bande de tissu, dite bande externe, de préférence de même nature que le pantalon, s'étendant sur la face externe du ruban et chevauchant le bord supérieur de celui-ci par un repli, une première couture extensible, dite couture basse, solidarisant la partie haute du pantalon, la bande externe et le ruban élastique ; selon la présente invention, ladite ceinture se caractérise en ce que :
- la face interne du ruban élastique est habillée de deux bandes de tissu, du type bande en biais, réalisées par tissage de fils non extensibles et découpe en biais conférant auxdites bandes une extensibilité longitudinale,
- ces bandes en biais, dites doublure supérieure et doublure inférieure, forment des replia en regard qui se recouvrent et sont cousues sur le ruban élastique par leurs bords de recouvrement au moyen d'une deuxième couture extensible, dite couture médiane, n'affectant pas la bande externe,
- la doublure supérieure est cousue en partie haute sur le ruban élastique par une troisième couture extensible, dite couture supérieure, traversant le repli interne de la bande externe,
- la doublure inférieure comporte une partie flottante s'étendant au-dessous du bord inférieur du ruban élastique.
- the internal face of the elastic ribbon is covered with two strips of fabric, of the bias strip type, produced by weaving non-stretchable threads and cutting at an angle giving said strips longitudinal stretch,
- these oblique bands, called upper lining and lower lining, form opposite folds which overlap and are sewn on the elastic tape by their overlapping edges by means of a second extensible seam, called median seam, not affecting the external tape,
- the upper lining is sewn at the top on the elastic tape by a third stretch seam, called the upper seam, crossing the internal fold of the external strip,
- the lower lining has a floating part extending below the lower edge of the elastic tape.
Les caractéristiques ci-dessus définies se combinent pour conférer à la ceinture de l'invention, à la fois, l'aspect attrayant d'une ceinture haut de gamme traditionnelle, une élasticité longitudinale remarquable permettant aisément de gagner une taille à un pantalon coupé dans un tissu d'extensibilité appropriée, et une rémanence et une nervosité assurant un bon maintien et un retour à la taille initiale quelle que soit la durée du port.The characteristics defined above combine to give the belt of the invention, at the same time, the attractive appearance of a traditional high-end belt, a remarkable longitudinal elasticity easily making it possible to gain a size for pants cut in a fabric of appropriate extensibility, and a persistence and nervousness ensuring a good maintenance and a return to the initial size whatever the duration of the port.
D'autres modes particuliers de réalisation selon l'invention sont indiqués dans les revendications dépendantes 2 à 6.Other particular embodiments according to the invention are indicated in dependent claims 2 to 6.
D'autres caractéristiques, buts et avantages de l'invention ressortiront de la description qui suit en référence aux dessins annexés qui en présentent un mode de réalisation ; sur ces dessins qui font partie intégrante de la présente description :
- la figure 1 est une vue schématique en coupe d'une ceinture conforme à l'invention (les épaisseurs ayant été exagérées pour rendre la figure plus claire),
- la figure 2 est une vue schématique du côté interne de la ceinture, une portion de la partie flottante ayant été relevée pour montrer le ruban élastique,
- la figure 3 est une vue schématique du côté externe de la ceinture, les coutures supérieure et médiane, non apparentes, étant dessinées en traits discontinus,
- la figure 4 illustre le procédé de montage de la ceinture en partie haute du pantalon.
- FIG. 1 is a schematic sectional view of a belt according to the invention (the thicknesses having been exaggerated to make the figure clearer),
- FIG. 2 is a schematic view of the internal side of the belt, a portion of the floating part having been raised to show the elastic ribbon,
- FIG. 3 is a schematic view of the external side of the belt, the upper and middle seams, not visible, being drawn in broken lines,
- Figure 4 illustrates the method of mounting the belt in the upper part of the pants.
La ceinture anglaise représentée à titre d'exemple aux figures est montée sur un pantalon bi-extensible que l'on aperçoit partiellement en 1 sur ces figures. Ce pantalon est fabriqué de façon classique au moyen d'un tissu coton, laine ou polyester/laine, intégrant un pourcentage "d'élastane" qui lui confère une extensibilité dans les deux sens. Ce pantalon comporte des poches qui ont été schématisées côté endroit en 2a à la figure 3 et côté envers en 2b à la figure 2 (sacs de poche).The English belt shown by way of example in the figures is mounted on bi-stretch pants which can be seen partially at 1 in these figures. These pants are made in a classic way using a cotton, wool or polyester / wool fabric, incorporating a percentage of "elastane" which gives it stretch in both directions. These pants have pockets which have been shown diagrammatically on the right side at 2a in FIG. 3 and the reverse side at 2b in FIG. 2 (pocket bags).
La ceinture anglaise visée par l'invention comprend un ruban élastique 3 qui peut en particulier être constitué par un ruban tissé au moyen d'un fil élastique de chaîne guipé et d'un fil de trame non élastique. Le fil de chaîne est notamment un fil de gomme guipé par un fil de polyester et mélangé avec une mousse polyamide. Le ruban élastique 3 présente une élasticité longitudinale comprise entre 50 % et 200 %, de l'ordre de 100 % en l'exemple précité.The English belt targeted by the invention comprises an
La face externe du ruban élastique 3 (côté endroit du pantalon) est pourvue d'une bande de tissu 4 dite bande externe, de même nature que le pantalon. Cette bande externe 4 chevauche le bord supérieur du ruban par un repli 4a qui redescend sur une petite fraction de la hauteur dudit ruban. Du côté endroit, les jambes du pantalon 1 sont préalablement cousues sur la bande externe 4 par une couture extensible en points de chaînette 5 réalisée avec un fil à fort pourcentage d'extensibilité.The external face of the elastic tape 3 (right side of the pants) is provided with a
La face interne du ruban élastique 3 est habillée de deux bandes de tissu, dites doublure supérieure 6 et doublure inférieure 7. Ces bandes sont des bandes en biais réalisées par tissage de fils non extensibles et découpe en biais. En l'exemple, ces bandes sont découpées en biais dans un tissu chevron et l'on aperçoit les chevrons en 6a ou 7a à la figure 2. Les fils utilisés pour réaliser ces bandes en biais sont par exemple des fils 70 % coton, 30 % polyester ; de telles bandes ont une extensibilité longitudinale comprise entre 15 % et 30 %, en particulier de l'ordre de 20 %.The internal face of the
La doublure supérieure 6 et la doublure inférieure 7, réalisées au moyen desdites bandes en biais, sont agencées pour former deux replis en regard qui se recouvrent comme l'illustre la figure 1 ; elles sont cousues sur le ruban élastique 3 au moyen d'une couture extensible 8 dite couture médiane, qui traverse le ruban et les bords de recouvrement des doublures, sans affecter la bande externe 4. Cette couture 8 est une couture en points zig-zag réalisée avec un fil à fort pourcentage d'extensibilité. Du côté interne, la partie apparente de cette couture médiane peut être dotée de points antidérapants tels que 9 en vue de limiter le glissement transversal de la ceinture. De plus, le bord 6a de la doublure supérieure 6 est avantageusement replié (du côté interne apparent) pour parfaire l'esthétique.The
La doublure supérieure 6 est cousue en partie haute sur le ruban élastique 3 par une couture supérieure extensible 10, traversant le repli interne 4a de la bande externe 4. Cette couture 6 est une couture réalisée en points zig-zag au moyen d'un fil à fort pourcentage d'extensibilité.The
La doublure inférieure 7 comporte une partie flottante 7a qui se prolonge au-dessous du bord inférieur du ruban élastique.The
Une couture basse extensible 11 est réalisée au niveau de la couture chaînette 5 (entre pantalon 1 et bande externe 4) et fixe ces éléments sur le ruban élastique. Cette couture basse 11 est de préférence exécutée en points noués au moyen d'un fil à fort pourcentage d'extensibilité. Comme l'illustre la figure 1, elle peut être réalisée de façon à traverser la doublure inférieure 7 afin de stabiliser celle-ci au voisinage du bord inférieur du ruban élastique 3. Il est également possible dans certains cas de laisser la doublure 7 complètement flottante, la couture 11 n'affectant pas cette doublure.A
En partie basse, la partie flottante 7a de la doublure inférieure est de préférence liée aux sacs de poche 2b par des points d'attache symbolisés en 12 aux figures 1 et 2.In the lower part, the
La figure 4 illustre le montage de la ceinture anglaise conforme à l'invention sur le pantalon 1. Après confection de la couture chaînette 5 solidarisant les jambes et la bande externe 4, ces éléments sont disposés à plat et le bord de la bande 4 est inséré entre le ruban 3 et la doublure supérieure 6 jusqu'à venir se bloquer contre la couture médiane 8 de la ceinture. La couture supérieure 10 est alors réalisée, puis la bande 4 et le pantalon 1 sont rabattus par rapport à la ceinture (flèche F). La couture inférieure 11 peut alors être exécutée, les points d'attache avec les sacs de poche étant ensuite réalisés.Figure 4 illustrates the mounting of the English belt according to the invention on the
Toutes les coutures sont exécutées au moyen d'un fil à fort pourcentage d'extensibilité, par exemple fil extensible polyester longue fibre, conférant auxdites coutures une extensibilité longitudinale de l'ordre de 20 %.All the seams are executed by means of a thread with a high percentage of extensibility, for example polyester long fiber extensible thread, giving said seams a longitudinal extensibility of the order of 20%.
La ceinture anglaise conforme à l'invention associe de hautes qualités d'esthétique, côté interne et externe, permettant de la monter sur des pantalons haut de gamme, à de remarquables qualités d'élasticité, de rémanence et de nervosité.The English belt according to the invention combines high aesthetic qualities, internal and external, allowing it to be worn on high-end pants, with remarkable qualities of elasticity, persistence and nervousness.
Claims (6)
- Trouser waistband of the English waistband type, sewn into the top of a pair of stretch trousers, comprising an elastic strip (3), a band of cloth, referred to as the external band (4), preferably of the same nature as the trousers, extending over the external face of the strip (3) and straddling the top edge of the latter by means of a fold (4a), a first set of stretchable stitching, referred to as the bottom stitching (11), fixing together the trousers (1), the external band (4) and the elastic strip (3),
characterised in that:- the internal face of the elastic strip (3) is covered with two bands of cloth, of the bias band type (6, 7), produced by weaving non-stretchable threads and cut on the bias, giving the said bands longitudinal stretchability,- these bias bands, referred to as the top lining (6) and bottom lining (7), form facing folds which overlap and are stitched onto the elastic strip (3) by their overlapping edges by means of a second set of stretchable stitching, referred to as the middle stitching (8), not affecting the external band (4),- the top lining (6) is sewn at the top onto the elastic strip (3) by a third set of stretchable stitching, referred to as the top stitching (10), passing through the internal fold (4a) of the external band,- the bottom lining (7) has a loose part (7a) extending below the bottom edge of the elastic strip (3). - Waistband according to Claim 1, characterised in that:- the elastic strip (3) is a strip woven by means of a lapped elastic thread for the warp and a non-elastic thread for the weft, giving it a longitudinal elasticity of between 50% and 200%,- the top (6) and bottom (7) linings are bands woven from cotton or polyester/cotton threads and cut on the bias, so as to give them a longitudinal stretchability of between 15% and 30%,- the bottom (11), middle (8) and top (10) sets of stitching are produced with a thread with a high stretch factor in zigzag stitches or lock-stitches.
- Waistband according to one of Claims 1 or 2,
characterised in that the trousers (1) are first sewn onto the external band (4) by means of stretchable stitching in chain stitches (5), the bottom stitching (11) being effected at the level of this chain stitching (5). - Waistband according to one of Claims 1, 2 or 3,
characterised in that the bottom stitching (11) is produced so as to pass through the bottom lining (7). - Waistband according to one of Claims 1, 2, 3 or 4,
disposed at the top of a pair of trousers with pockets, characterised in that the loose part of the bottom lining (7) is attached to the pocket linings (2b) by attachment stitches (12). - Waistband according to one of Claims 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5,
characterised in that the middle stitching (8) has non-slip stitches (9) on its visible internal part.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9004408A FR2660532B1 (en) | 1990-04-04 | 1990-04-04 | PANTS BELT. |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0515733A1 EP0515733A1 (en) | 1992-12-02 |
EP0515733B1 true EP0515733B1 (en) | 1995-11-22 |
Family
ID=9395493
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP91201244A Expired - Lifetime EP0515733B1 (en) | 1990-04-04 | 1991-05-27 | Trouser waistband |
Country Status (6)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US5168581A (en) |
EP (1) | EP0515733B1 (en) |
AT (1) | ATE130497T1 (en) |
DE (2) | DE515733T1 (en) |
ES (1) | ES2080884T3 (en) |
FR (1) | FR2660532B1 (en) |
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US4549317A (en) * | 1983-02-10 | 1985-10-29 | Ambrosio Anthony H D | Garment waistband construction |
GB2194428B (en) * | 1986-07-18 | 1990-11-07 | Graham H G & Son Ltd | Waistband assembly |
US4970728A (en) * | 1990-05-10 | 1990-11-20 | Ambrosio Anthony D | Garment waistband construction |
-
1990
- 1990-04-04 FR FR9004408A patent/FR2660532B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
1991
- 1991-05-27 AT AT91201244T patent/ATE130497T1/en not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1991-05-27 DE DE199191201244T patent/DE515733T1/en active Pending
- 1991-05-27 DE DE69114833T patent/DE69114833T2/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1991-05-27 EP EP91201244A patent/EP0515733B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1991-05-27 ES ES91201244T patent/ES2080884T3/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1991-05-30 US US07/706,928 patent/US5168581A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US5168581A (en) | 1992-12-08 |
FR2660532B1 (en) | 1993-12-03 |
FR2660532A1 (en) | 1991-10-11 |
DE69114833T2 (en) | 1996-07-11 |
ATE130497T1 (en) | 1995-12-15 |
DE69114833D1 (en) | 1996-01-04 |
DE515733T1 (en) | 1993-07-22 |
EP0515733A1 (en) | 1992-12-02 |
ES2080884T3 (en) | 1996-02-16 |
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