CN1826126A - Plant extract with prebiotic activity - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to plant extracts that have a prebiotic effect on the skin, topical cosmetic and pharmaceutical compositions containing said plant extracts, and the use of said plant extracts and compositions, especially for treating the skin.

Description

Plant extract with prebiotic activity

Theme of the present invention is the plant extract that skin is had preceding life influence, comprises the topical cosmetic and the medical composition of described plant extract, and the purposes of described plant extract and compositions.

Dermatitis by for good and all on skin deleterious antibacterial for example Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) caused, but violent under given conditions propagation for example causes " unclean skin " or acne.Therefore, in this case, we are primarily aimed at and classify as pathogenic microorganism (antibacterial and fungus).

Inherent bacillary skin flora also is made up of other bacteroidal kinds of destroying but continuing to grow that do not produce, and stops dangerous antibacterial, therefore plays important protective effect.Among these, main is for example staphylococcus epidermidis (S.epidermidis) of coagulase negative staphylococcus.Usually, term " saprophytic bacteria " also is used to the optimum skin microorganism wished.Yet, also has undesirable skin microorganism, do not think the skin microorganism that belongs to " saprophytic bacteria " according to the classification of reality, may wish that as being categorized as " pathogenic " antibacterial in addition therefore the difference between the difference between " hope " and " undesirable " and " saprophytic bacteria " and " pathogen " is inconsistent.Particularly, it should be noted that also for example the antibacterial of benign skin-friendly can become pathogen by too intensive propagation.Therefore the composition that depends on microorganism skin flora as the division bacteria of pathogen.

Nonselective antibacterial is used in for example commercial cosmetics to suppress and prevents those of acne, not only kills undesirable skin microorganism but also kills the skin microorganism of hope, and therefore having upset biobalance causes various undesirable results.

Therefore need a kind of growth and/or survival that suppresses undesirable skin flora antibacterial selectively, relatively, promote at the growth that applies the skin flora antibacterial of wishing in the territory, dermatotome and/or the reagent of survival.Such material is also referred to as " prebiotic ".

The sign of the prebiotic influence of material mainly is limited to enteral.Therefore, promote the use of the coliform growth substance of hope to be described in the various publications.Particularly Ahn et al. (1990) Microbial Ecology in Health and Disease 3, and 223-229 has also described the use ginseng extract and has been used for this purpose.

Up to the present, the only report that is used for skin is that oligosaccharide has prebiotic influence (Solabia Group, the advocacy leaflet about BioEcolia  of France), because it can be used for preferred saprophytic bacteria antibacterial selectively.The there shows the oligosaccharide of use, compare with the growth phase of staphylococcus aureus (Staphylococcus aureus), and with the growth phase of Corynebacterium xerose (Corynebakterium xerosis) relatively, can promote the growth of Micrococcus kristinae (Micrococcus kristinae).

And, mixture according to EP 1050300 report farnesol and xylitol can be used as prebiotic material, because this mixture works to staphylococcus aureus (S.aureus) selectively, therefore can increase the propagation (S.epidermidis) of the staphylococcus epidermidis of competition.

The objective of the invention is to find other to skin or in the skin flora, have the material of prebiotic activity.

Surprisingly, find that at present plant extract has prebiotic influence to skin, therefore can be advantageously used in treatment skin.

According to the present invention, " prebiotic influence " is interpreted as that the meaning is growth and/or survival with respect to disagreeableness skin microorganism of undesirable particularly skin or germ group, can promote the skin microorganism of the particularly skin-friendly of wishing or germ group's growth and/or survival.This can advantageously act on by active substance wishes the skin microbial growth, do not realize and directly do not influence undesirable skin microbial growth, and suppress undesirable skin microbial growth by active substance, and directly influence wish that the skin microbial growth realizes.Yet in a kind of particularly preferred and surprising especially embodiment, described active substance advantageously acts on wishes that skin microbial growth, skin microorganism suppress undesirable skin microbial growth simultaneously according to the present invention.

According to the present invention, term " skin " is interpreted as that the meaning is a preferred skin itself, Ren Lei skin particularly, with mucosa and cutaneous appendage, they comprise outside of belly epithelial layer and the sebaceous gland and the sweat gland of living cells, particularly hair follicle, Rhizoma Imperatae, ball top, nail matrix (lectulus) in this scope.

Therefore, the objective of the invention is in partial cosmetics skin treatment agent, use plant extract with prebiotic activity, mainly skin there is origin of life active plant extract in the past, wish the skin microbial growth with enhancement, describedly wish that the skin microorganism is preferably benign and/or avirulence and/or skin-friendly and/or saprophytic skin microorganism and/or coagulase negative staphylococcus, staphylococcus epidermidis particularly, staphylococcus haemolyticus (S.hominis), Staphylococcus warneri (S.warneri), staphylococcus saprophyticus (S.saprophyticus), staphylococcus xylosus (S.xylosus), Staphylococcus capitis (S.capitis) or staphylococcus haemolyticus (S.simulans), preferred especially staphylococcus epidermidis or Staphylococcus warneri, and/or the bacillus of skin-friendly, particularly Bacillus licheniformis.

Therefore, the object of the invention is in addition in partial cosmetics skin treatment agent, use plant extract with prebiotic activity, the main plant extract that skin is had prebiotic activity, to suppress undesirable skin microbial growth, described undesirable skin microorganism is preferably the disagreeableness antibacterial of skin and/or pathogenic microorganism and/or coagulase-positive staphylococci, staphylococcus aureus particularly, perhaps be selected from Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium acnes), Candida albicans (Candida albicans), malassezia furfur (Malassezia furfur), some kind of corynebacterium (Corynebacterium spp.) or some kind of Peptostreptococcus (Peprostreptococcusspp.) are mainly Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium acnes).

In particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, described prebiotic activity plant extract is a kind of coagulase negative staphylococcus of promoting, particularly staphylococcus epidermidis or Staphylococcus warneri growth, and/or promote particularly Bacillus licheniformis (Bacilluslicheniformis) growth of skin-friendly antibacterial, suppress the extract of Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium acnes) growth simultaneously.

Advantageously, the present invention has the plant extract of prebiotic activity to be suitable for recovering to skin or the microbial balance of stable skin flora natural health.

Another object of the present invention is to use the plant extract of prebiotic activity in partial cosmetics skin treatment agent, the main plant extract that prebiotic activity is arranged for skin, be used for the treatment of unsound, dry or oily skin, and be used for the treatment of the fungal skin infections or the dandruff, treat acne especially.Described treatment is preventative, as the application that is used for other.

Another object of the present invention is cosmetics or the Pharmaceutical composition that comprises plant extract with prebiotic activity, mainly skin is had prebiotic activity, the preferably partial skin treatment agent of wherein said cosmetics or Pharmaceutical composition.

The plant extract of described prebiotic activity is preferably based on composition total weight, and the content in compositions is 0.01-20wt%, preferred especially 0.05-10wt%, special 0.1-5wt%, especially 0.5-2wt%.

The plant extract of prebiotic activity of the present invention is the coniferous tree extract preferably, the extract of the particularly extract of Pinaceae (Pinacae), or Sapindaceae (Sapindaceae), Araliaceae (Araliaceae), Labiatae (Lamiaceae), Saxifragaceae (Saxifragaceae) or its mixture.

The special preferably extract of some kind of Picea of described plant extract.The extract of special European spruce (synonym Norway spruce, PiceameyeriRehd. Et Wils.) or white spruce (Norway spruce), the extract of Pinus kind, special Lapland pine extract, Paullinia (plan) is planted the extract of (Guarana), the extract of special Paullinia (plan) Guarana (cubana), the extract of Panax's kind, special Radix Ginseng (Radix Ginseng), the extract of lamium kind, special Herba Lamii albi (white Urtica), currant belongs to plants, the extract of special black Semen sojae atricolor (Ribes nigrum L.), perhaps its mixture.

Any method that the plant extract of described prebiotic activity can be known by those of ordinary skills is used any plant tissue and any extractant manufacturing.Therefore, described plant extract for example can extract from the separate living tissue of whole plants, flower, leaf, seed, root and/or plant.

Be used to prepare the extractant of enumerating plant extract and for example can be water, alcohol with and composition thereof.Typical alcohol be lower alcohol such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, but particularly polyhydroxy-alcohol is such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butanediol, can be separately as extractant and with the mixture of water as extractant.Therefore, be 1 based on for example water/propylene glycol ratio: 10-10: 1 plant extract proves suitable especially.Described extraction is for example undertaken by steam distillation.Optional, can also carry out dry extraction.

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the extract of the extract of described Sapindaceae, particularly Guarana is the dry extract of seed.

Especially from the extract of Pinaceae, extract of the present invention is preferably from needle or bark for the coniferae extract.For the extract of Norway spruce or European spruce, water/propylene glycol extraction thing is preferred, and for the white clouds shirt, water/ethanol extraction is preferred.

Described Araliaceae is Radix Ginseng extract root extract preferably particularly.

Described Labiatae, particularly white Urtica extract be water/propylene glycol extraction thing preferably.

Described Saxifragaceae, particularly Ribes nigrum L. extract preferably mainly are the water/propylene glycol extraction things from blade.

According to the present invention, there is the plant extract of prebiotic activity can purified form and use with the form of dilution to skin.When they used with dilute form, they generally included the active substance of about 2-80wt%, and solvent is to be used to prepare their extractant or the mixture of extractant.The extractant that depends on selection is preferably stablized plant extract by adding solubilizing agent.Appropriate solubilizing agent for example is the ethoxylated product of optionally hydrogenated plant and animal oil.Preferred solubilizing agent is the C that comprises the ethoxylation of 4-50 ethylene oxide unit(s) _8-22Fatty acid single, two and triglyceride, for example castor oil hydrogenated of ethoxylation, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, ermine oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylin, polyoxyethylene glycol caprin, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut oil fat acid glyceride.

Cosmetics of the present invention or Pharmaceutical composition can be the appearance forrns of any hope, for example soap, washing liquid, spray, oils and fats, gel, Emulsion, cleanout fluid or cleansing emulsion, deodorizer, antiperspirant, ointment, hair conditioner or shampoo, in that it can also be contained in any description or other appearance forrns, for example also can be in first-aid dressing, particularly in gel reservoir first-aid dressing or substrate first-aid dressing.

The application region can be the skin of health any part, particularly the skin on Mian Bu skin, scalp, hands and the foot, skin and vaginal mucosa under tucking in.

Cosmetics of the present invention or Pharmaceutical composition can also comprise other composition.In a preferred embodiment, it comprises at least a following material.It can also comprise the hope compositions that following material is any.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises at least a vitamin, rovitamin or the previtamin thing that is selected from vitamin B group, the perhaps derivant of their derivant and 2-furanone.

Described vitamin B group or compound vitamin B particularly including:

Vitamin B1, popular name thiamine, chemical name 3-[4 '-amino-2 '-methyl-5 '-pyrimidine radicals)-methyl]-5-(2-ethoxy)-4-methyl thiazole chloride.Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably based on total composition and adds 0.05-1wt%.

Vitamin B2, popular name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribosyl)-benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H)-diketone.In its free state, riboflavin for example is milk surum; Other are examined horizontal plain derivant and can separate from antibacterial and yeast.The stereoisomer that is suitable for riboflavin of the present invention equally is lyxoflavin (lyoxoflavine), can separate from fish flour or liver, has D-arabinose group rather than D-ribosyl.The amount that adds riboflavin or its derivant is preferably 0.05-1wt% based on total composition.

Vitamin B ₃Chemical compound nicotinic acid and nicotiamide (nicotinamide) are usually included under this title.According to the present invention, preferred nicotiamide, based on total composition, nicotiamide accounts for 0.05-1wt% in the present composition.

Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid and pantothenol).The preferred pantothenol that adds.The available pantothenol derivant of the present invention especially ester of pantothenol and the cation of ether and pantothenol is derived.In the other preferred implementation of the present invention, except that pantothenic acid or pantothenol, perhaps replace pantothenic acid or pantothenol, can also add the derivant of 2-furanone with general formula (I).

Preferred 2-furanone derivatives is those: wherein said substituent R ¹To R ⁶Independently of one another, represent hydrogen atom, hydroxyl, methyl, methoxyl group, aminomethyl, methylol, saturated or single or diunsaturated straight chain or side chain C ₂-C ₄Hydrocarbyl group, saturated or single or diunsaturated straight chain or side chain list, two or trihydroxy C ₂-C ₄Hydrocarbyl group, perhaps saturated or single or diunsaturated straight chain or side chain list, two or triamido C ₂-C ₄Hydrocarbyl group.Particularly preferred derivant is commercially available material equally: dihydro-3-hydroxyl-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H)-furanone, popular name pantolactone (Merck), 4-methylol-gamma-butyrolacton (Merck), 3,3-dimethyl-2-hydroxyl-gamma-butyrolacton (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxyl group-2-furanone (Merck) wherein clearly comprises all stereoisomers.According to the present invention, 2-furanone derivatives very preferably is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxyl-4, a 4-dimethyl-2 (3H)-furanone), wherein in general formula (I), and R ¹Representation hydroxy, R ²Represent hydrogen atom, R ³And R ⁴Represent methylidene, R ⁵And R ⁶Represent hydrogen atom.Described stereoisomer (R)-pantolactone is obtained by the pantothenic acid degraded.

Reagent of the present invention preferably includes, and based on total composition, total amount is described vitamin B5 type of enumerating and the 2-furanone derivatives chemical compound of 0.05-10wt%.Total amount is that 0.1-5wt% is particularly preferred.

Vitamin B6 is interpreted as not to be meant pure material, but the 5-that knows methylol-2-picoline-3-alcohol, popular name are the derivant of pyridoxol, pyridoxamine and 2-methyl-3-hydroxy-4-formyl-5-hydroxymethylpyridine..Preferably include the vitamin B6, particularly 0.001-0.01wt% of 0.0001-1.0wt% according to compositions of the present invention.

Vitamin B7 (biotin) is called biotin equally.Biotin be (3aS, 4S, 6aR)-2-oxygenate six hydrogen thienol[3,4-d]-imidazoles-4-valeric acid.Preferably include the biotin, particularly 0.001-0.01wt% of 0.0001-1.0wt% according to compositions of the present invention.

According to the present invention, pantothenol, pantolactone, nicotiamide and biotin are quite particularly preferred.

Another object of the present invention is cosmetics or the medicinal skin treatment agent that comprises prebiotic plant extract and in addition at least a other plant extract.Described other plant extract for example can be by extracting whole plant, perhaps equally only flower and/or blade and/or seed and/or the preparation of other parts by extracting plant.According to the present invention, preferred other plant extract mainly is from the i.e. extract from separable plant tissue of separate living tissue, and the extract of specified plant, such as green tea, Hamamelis virginiana, Flos Chrysanthemi, Flos Inulae, Herba Violae Hortensis, Radix Paeoniae, Aloe, Aesculus chinensis Bunge, salvia, Willow bark, Cortex cinnamomi japonici (Ramulus Cinnamomi), Flos Chrysanthemi, oak bark, small British nettle, hop, Radix Arctii, Herba Equiseti Arvinsis, Fructus Crataegi, Flos Tiliae, Semen Armeniacae Amarum, sandalwood, juniper, Cortex cocois radicis, Fructus Averrhoae Carambolae, Punica granatum L., tilia, Fructus Mangifera Indicae, Fructus Pruni, Semen Tritici aestivi, Fructus Melo, orange, grapefruit, American Avocado Tree, Herba Rosmarini Officinalis, birch, the Zelkova schneideriana Hand.-Mazz. branch, Radix Malvae sylvestris, garment or robe made of feathers grass, leafy Millefolium, wild thyme, Herba thymi vulgaris, Herba melissae axillaris, restharrow, Althaea officinalis L. (Althaea), Radix Malvae sylvestris (Radix Malvae sylvestris) violet, coltsfoot, the Herba Potentillae Chinensis of crawling, Rhizoma Zingiberis Recens and Rhizoma Dioscoreae esculentae.Algae extract also can advantageously add.The algae extract that the present invention uses derives from green algae, Brown algae, red algae or cyanophyceae (cyano bacteria).The algae that is used to extract can be natural origin and obtain from the method for biotechnology, and when needing their naturalness of modification.By in being rich in the raw material of selecting nutrient, breeding or cultivate to described organism modification.Preferred algae extract derives from Sargassum, cyanophyceae, chlorella pine Trentepohlia (Codium tomentosum) and Brown algae fucus vesiculosus (Fucusvesiculosus).A kind of particularly preferred algae extract derives from the cyanophyceae of the spirulina kind of cultivating in the magniferous culture medium of richness.

Particularly preferred in addition plant extract is from those of spirulina, green tea, Aloe, separate living tissue, Hamamelis virginiana, Fructus Pruni, Flos Inulae, Punica granatum L., Rhizoma Dioscoreae esculentae, tilia, Fructus Mangifera Indicae, Fructus Averrhoae Carambolae, gherkin, Radix Malvae sylvestris, Althaea officinalis L. and violet.Reagent of the present invention can comprise that also the mixture of several particularly two kinds of different plant extracts is as other plant extract.

The extractant that is used to prepare the other plant extract of enumerating can be to be used to prepare those of plant extract with prebiotic activity, for example water, alcohol and their mixture.Typical preferred alcohol be lower alcohol such as ethanol and isopropyl alcohol, but particularly polyhydroxy-alcohol is such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butanediol, can be separately as extractant and and the mixture of water as extractant.Based on ratio 1: 10-10: the plant extract of water/propylene glycol of 1 proves suitable especially.According to the present invention, steam distillation is preferred extraction process.Yet described extraction can be used as to do to extract to be carried out.

According to the present invention, described plant extract can be pure and use with the form of dilution.When they used with dilute form, they generally included the active substance of about 2-80wt%, and solvent is to be used to prepare their extractant or the mixture of extractant.The extractant that depends on selection is preferably stablized plant extract by adding solubilizing agent.Appropriate solubilizing agent for example is the ethoxylated product of optionally hydrogenated plant and animal oil.Preferred solubilizing agent is the C that comprises the ethoxylation of 4-50 ethylene oxide unit _8-22Fatty acid single, two and triglyceride, for example castor oil hydrogenated of ethoxylation, olive oil ethoxylate, almond oil ethoxylate, ermine oil ethoxylate, polyoxyethylene glycol caprylin, polyoxyethylene glycol caprin, polyoxyethylene glycerol monolaurate and polyoxyethylene glycol coconut oil fat acid glyceride.

In addition, also preferably in plant extract with prebiotic activity, add several, the mixture of two kinds of different plant extracts particularly.

About the available plant extract of the present invention, we refer in addition by GermanCosmetic, Toiletry, Perfumery and Detergent Association e.V. (IKW), the extract of listing in the table of 44 pages of beginnings of the Guidelines for the Declaration of Ingredients inCosmetics (Leitfadens zurInhaltsstoffdeklarationkosmetischerMittel) third edition that Frankfurt publishes.

Another object of the present invention is a life plant extract before comprising, cosmetics or medicinal skin treatment agent with at least a MMP-1 inhibiting substances, described inhibiting substances is selected from light cracking enzyme and/or T4 endonuclease V, PG, precocene, 6-hydroxyl-7-methoxyl group-2, the 2-dimethyl-(2H)-1-.alpha.-5:6-benzopyran, 3,4-dihydro-6-hydroxyl-7-methoxyl group-2, the 2-dimethyl-(2H)-1-.alpha.-5:6-benzopyran (can obtain with commodity Lipochroman 6 ) and their mixture from Lipotec SA.Precocene is usually the chromene derivative in plant, is known hormone (TheMerckIndex, 12 ^ThEdition, Merck﹠amp; Co.1996).The MMP-1 inhibitory action of described these materials is described among the DE 100116016A1 of German Offenlegungsschrift.They each based on total composition, preferred addition is 0.1-5wt%, more preferably 0.5-2wt%.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, skin treatment agent of the present invention comprises at least a C in addition _2-18The retinol of carboxylic acid (retinol1) ester.Preferred retinol ester is retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate, and retinyl palmitate is particularly preferred.Described each retinol ester is based on total composition, and addition is 0.1-5wt%, preferred 0.5-2wt%.

In other preferred implementation, skin treatment agent of the present invention when conduct contains Emulsion or surfactant solution use, mainly as detergent, comprises that at least a surfactant is as emulsifying agent or dispersant especially.Emulsifying agent works at boundary and forms water or the stable adsorption layer of oil, prevents dispersive droplet congregating, therefore stablizes described Emulsion.Therefore, emulsifying agent, similarly surfactant is made up of hydrophobic and hydrophilic molecular moiety.Hydrophilic emulsifying agent is preferably formed O/W emulsion, and hydrophobic emulsifying agent is preferably formed W/O emulsion.Stable W/O emulsion is not disclosed among the DE19816665A1 and DE19801593A1 of Offenlegungsschriften under having the hydrophilic emulsifying agent situation.Emulsion is interpreted as and is meant a kind of liquid dispersion with the drop form in other liquid, utilizes the surfactant energy to supply with stable boundary is provided.The trickle degree of dispersive material, continuous phase separately and Emulsion is depended in the selection of this emulsifying surfactant or emulsifying agent.

The available typical emulsifying agent of the present invention is:

-4-30 mole oxirane and/or 0-5 mole expoxy propane are in straight chain C ₈-C ₂₂-aliphatic alcohol, C ₁₂-C ₂₂-fatty acid and C ₈-C ₁₅Addition product on the-alkyl phenol,

-1-30 moles of ethylene oxide is at C ₃-C ₆Polyol is the C of the addition product on the glycerol particularly ₁₂-C ₂₂Fatty acid list and diester,

-oxirane and polyglycerine addition product on methyl glucosamine fatty acid ester, fatty acid alkanol amides and fatty acid glucamide,

-C ₈-C ₂₂Alkyl list and oligomeric glucoside and their ethoxylated homologs, wherein the oligomerization degree is 1.1-5,1.2-2.0 particularly, preferred glucose be as sugared component,

The mixture of-alkyl (oligomeric) glucosides and aliphatic alcohol, commodity Montanov  68 for example,

The addition product of-5-60 moles of ethylene oxide on Oleum Ricini and castor oil hydrogenated,

-comprise the polyhydric alcohol and the C of 3-6 carbon atom ₈-C ₂₂The partial ester of fatty acid,

-sterin (sterol).Sterin is interpreted as and is meant steroid to have hydroxyl on the 3rd carbon atom of steroid skeleton, can separate from animal tissue's (zoosterol) and Vegetable oil lipoprotein (phytosterol).The example of zoosterol is cholesterol and lanosterol.The example of suitable phytosterol is cupreol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol.Sterin, so-called kryptosterol is separated from fungus and yeast equally.

-phospholipid, main is glucose-phospholipid, from for example egg yolk or plant seed (for example Semen sojae atricolor), obtain as lecithin or phosphatidylcholine,

-sugar and sugar alcohol be such as the fatty acid ester of Sorbitol,

-polyglycerine and polyglycerine derivant, preferred polyglyceryl-2-two polyhydric stearates (commodity Dehymuls  PGPH) and polyglyceryl-3-diisopstearate (commodity Lameform  TGI),

-straight chain and side chain C ₈-C ₃₀Fatty acid and their sodium, potassium, ammonium, calcium, magnesium and zinc salt.

Compositions of the present invention preferably includes based on total composition 0.1-25wt%, the emulsifying agent of special 0.5-15wt%.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, comprise at least a HLB value and be 8 and following nonionic emulsifier (according to R mpp-LexikonChemie (Eds.:J.Falbe, M.Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), the definition of HLB among the page 1764).The suitable emulsifying agent of the type typical case is that general formula is R ¹-O-R ²Chemical compound, R wherein ¹Be linear primary alkyl, uncle's alkenyl or uncle's acyl group with 20-30 carbon atom, R ²Be hydrogen, and general formula-(C _nH _2nO) _xThe chemical compound of-H, x=1 or 2 wherein, n=2-4 perhaps has the polyhydroxy alkyl of 4-6 carbon atom and 2-5 hydroxyl.A particularly preferred general formula R ¹-O-R ²Emulsifying agent be docosyl or erucyl derivant, wherein R ¹Expression has linear primary alkyl, uncle's alkenyl or uncle's acyl group of 22 carbon atoms.

The HLB value of preferred in addition suitable emulsifying agent be 8 and below, be 1 or 2 moles of ethylene oxide or expoxy propane at behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, the perhaps addition compound product on mountain Yu's acid or sinapic acid equally.C ₁₆-C ₃₀Fatty acid and polyhydric alcohol are suitable and preferred such as the monoesters of tetramethylolmethane, trimethylolpropane, diglycerol, Sorbitol, glucose or methyl glucoside equally.The example of these products is Sorbitol list behenate or tetramethylolmethane list eruciate (monoerucate).

In in addition similar particularly preferred embodiment, comprise at least a ionic emulsifying agent that is selected from anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and cationic emulsifier.The preferred anionic surfactants surfactant is that alkyl sulfate, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate and the ether carboxylic acid that has in 10-18 C atom and the molecule up to 12 ethylene glycol ether groups arranged in the alkyl, the sulfo-succinic acid list and the dialkyl that have the 8-18C atom in the alkyl, has the sulfo-succinic acid monoalkyl multi-hydroxy ethyl ester that has 8-18 C atom in 1-6 oxygen ethylidene and the alkyl, the condensation substance of monoglyceride sulfate, alkyl and alkenyl ether phosphate and protein and fatty acid.Zwitterionic emulsifying agent in molecule, have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one-COO--,-SO3-.Suitable especially amphion emulsifying agent is so-called betanin; such as N-alkyl-N; N-Dimethyl Ammonium glycinate; N-acyl amino propyl group-N; N-Dimethyl Ammonium glycinate and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazole quinoline; each contains 8～18 carbon atoms in alkyl or in the acyl group, and cocoyl aminoethyl hydroxyethyl-carboxymethyl glycinate.

Amphoteric emulsifying agent is except C ₈-C ₂₄Outside alkyl or the acyl group, in molecule, also comprise at least one free amino group and at least one COOH or SO ₃The H group, and can the form inner salt.The example of suitable amphoteric emulsifier is N-alkyl glycine, N-alkyl aminopropionic acid, N-alkyl amino butanoic acid, N-alkyl imino dipropionic acid, N-ethoxy-N-alkyl amino propyl group glycine, N-alkyl taurine, N-alkyl sarcosine, 2-alkyl aminopropionic acid and p dialkylaminobenzoic acid, and each has about 8-24 carbon atom in alkyl.

The content of described ionic emulsifying agent is 0.01-5wt% based on total compositions, and preferred 0.05-3wt% is preferably 0.1-1wt% especially.

In addition, compositions of the present invention can comprise foaming, non-ionic, zwitterionic, anionic and cationic surfactant.

Examples of nonionic surfactants is:

General formula is R ¹CO-(OCH ₂CHR ²) xOR ³The alkoxylated fatty acid Arrcostab, R wherein ¹CO representative has the straight chain of 6-22 carbon atom or side chain, saturated and/or unsaturated acyl group, R ²Represent hydrogen or methyl, R ³Representative has the straight chain or the branched alkyl of 1-4 carbon atom, and x represents 1-20,

-oxirane adds to the addition compound product of fatty acid alkanol amides and aliphatic amine,

-fatty acid N-alkyl glucose amide,

-C ₈-C ₂₂Alkylamine-N-oxide,

-corresponding general formula R O-(Z) _xAlkyl polyglycoside, wherein R represents C ₈-C ₁₆Alkyl, Z are represented sugar, and x represents the quantity of sugar unit.The alkyl polyglycoside that the present invention uses can comprise the alkyl R of definition simply.Yet these chemical compounds are from natural fat and oil or mineral oil manufacturing usually.In either case, the alkyl R of existence is as being equivalent to the mixture of starting compound or the chemical compound of each preparation.Alkyl polyglycoside is particularly preferred, and wherein R is C basically ₈-and C ₁₀-alkyl is C basically ₁₂-and C ₁₄-alkyl is C basically ₈-two C ₁₆-alkyl is C basically ₁₂-two C ₁₆-alkyl.

Any list or oligosaccharide can be used as sugared construction unit Z and add.Usually the sugar and corresponding oligosaccharide, for example glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and the sucrose that add 5 or 6 carbon atoms.Preferred sugared construction unit is glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.The available alkyl polyglycoside of the present invention comprises average 1.1-5, preferred 1.1-2.0, preferred especially 1.1-1.8 sugar unit.The present invention can also use the alkoxylate homologue of the alkylpolyglycosides of enumerating.The every on an average unit of these homologues can comprise and reaches 10 oxirane and/or propylene oxide units.

Zwitterionic surfactant is defined as and comprises at least a quaternary ammonium group and at least a-COO in its molecule ^(-)Perhaps-SO ₃ ^(-)Those surfactants of group.Suitable especially zwitterionic surfactant is so-called betanin; such as N-alkyl-N; N-Dimethyl Ammonium glycinate; cocoyl alkyl dimethyl ammonium glycinate for example, N-acyl amino propyl group-N, N-Dimethyl Ammonium glycinate; cocoyl aminopropyl Dimethyl Ammonium glycinate for example; with 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl imidazole quinoline, each alkyl or acyl group contain 8～18 carbon atoms, and cocoyl amino-ethyl hydroxyethyl-carboxymethyl glycinate.Preferred zwitterionic surfactant is a fatty acid amide derivant, and the name of knowing is called the cocamido propyl betaine of INCI.

Suitable anion surfactant is the whole anionic surface active substances that are suitable for human body in the preparation of the present invention.They are characterised in that the water soluble anion group, for example carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and contain the lipophilic alkyl of about 8-30 carbon atom.In addition, this molecule may comprise ethylene glycol or Polyethylene Glycol ether group, ester, ether, amide groups and oh group.Suitable foaming anion surfactant example is, each anion surfactant is single, the two and three alkanol ammonium salt forms that contain 2-4 carbon atom with sodium, potassium and ammonium salt and triacontanol group,

-general formula is the acyl glutamate of (II),

R wherein ¹CO represents 6-22 carbon atom and has a straight chain or a chain acyl of 0,1,2 or 3 two key; X represents hydrogen, alkali/or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanol ammonium or glucose ammonium; for example derive from the fatty acid of 6-22, preferred 12-18 carbon atom, such as C _12/14-or C _12/18-fatty acid distribution of coconut oil, lauric acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid and/or stearic acyl glutamate, special N-cocoyl sodium and N-stearoyl-L-sodium glutamate,

Two or tricarboxylic ester that the hydroxyl of-general formula (III) replaces,

Wherein X=H or-CH ₂The COOR group, Y=H or-OH, if X=-CH ₂COOR is Y=H so, R, R ¹And R ²Represent the cation of hydrogen atom, alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, ammonium group, ammonium organic base independently of one another or be derived from 1-6 the unitary (C of monosaccharide that have that is selected from etherificate ₆-C ₁₈)-alkyl polysaccharide, and/or have the etherificate aliphatic series (C of 2-16 hydroxyl ₆-C ₁₆The polyhydroxylated organic compound group Z of)-hydroxyalkyl polyhydric alcohol, condition is R, R ¹And R ²At least one be group Z,

The ester of the sulfo-succinic acid of-general formula (IV),

-

R wherein ¹And R ²Represent the cation of hydrogen atom, alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, ammonium group, ammonium organic base independently of one another or be derived from the (C that is selected from etherificate with 1-6 monosaccharide unit ₆-C ₁₈)-alkyl polysaccharide, and/or have the etherificate aliphatic series (C of 2-16 hydroxyl ₆-C ₁₆The polyhydroxylated organic compound group Z of)-hydroxyalkyl polyhydric alcohol, condition is a radicals R ¹Perhaps R ²At least one is group Z,

-in alkyl, contain the sulfo-succinic acid list and the dialkyl of 8～24 carbon atoms and contain the sulfo-succinic acid monoalkyl polyoxy ethyl ester that contains 8～24 carbon atoms in 1～6 oxygen ethyl and the alkyl,

The esters of-tartaric acid and citric acid and alcohol, their representatives oxirane of about 2～15 molecules and/or addition product of expoxy propane on aliphatic alcohol with 8～22 carbon atoms.

The straight chain of-8-30 carbon atom and branched chain fatty acid (soap),

-general formula R-O-(CH ₂-CH ₂O) _x-CH ₂The ether carboxylic acid of-COOH, wherein R is the straight chained alkyl with 8-30 carbon atom, and x=0 or 1 to 16,

-have the straight chain of the two keys of 6-22 carbon atom and 0,1,2 or 3 or an acyl sarcosinates of a chain acyl,

-have the straight chain of the two keys of 6-22 carbon atom and 0,1,2 or 3 or an acyl taurine salt of a chain acyl,

-have the straight chain of the two keys of 6-22 carbon atom and 0,1,2 or 3 or an acyl-hydroxyethyl sulfonate of a chain acyl,

The straight chain paraffin sulfonate of-8-24 carbon atom,

Straight chain alpha-the ethylenic sulfonate of-8-24 carbon atom,

The alpha-sulfo fatty acid methyl ester of the fatty acid of-8-30 carbon atom,

-general formula is R-O (CH ₂-CH ₂O) _z-SO ₃The alkyl sulfate of X and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfate, the R straight chained alkyl of 8-30 carbon atom, preferred especially 8-18 carbon atom preferably wherein, z=0 or 1-12, preferred especially 3, X be sodium, potassium, magnesium, zinc, ammonium ion or triacontanol group single alkanol with 2-4 carbon atom-, dialkanol-or three alkanol ammonium ions, wherein more preferred example is the cocoyl ether zinc sulfate of ethoxylation degree z=3

-according to the mixture of the surface-active hydroxy sulfonate of DE-A-37 25 030,

-according to Sulfated hydroxyalkyl polyethylene and/or the hydroxy alkylidene propylene glycol of DE-A-37 23 354,

-according to the sulfonation unsaturated fatty acid that contains the two keys of 8-24 carbon atom and 1～6 of DE-A-39 26 344,

The alkyl of-Tong formula V and/or alkenyl ether phosphate,

R wherein ¹The preferred aliphatic hydrocarbon groups of representing 8-30 carbon atom, R ²Represent hydrogen, (CH ₂CH ₂O) _nR ¹Group or X, n are 1-10, and X represents hydrogen, alkali or alkaline-earth metal or NR ³R ⁴R ⁵R ⁶, R wherein ³-R ⁶The C that represents independently of one another ₁-C ₄Hydrocarbyl group,

-general formula is R ⁷CO (AlkO) _nSO ₃The sulphation fatty acid alkylene glycol ester of M,

R wherein ⁷CO represents 6-22 carbon atom straight chain or side chain, saturated and/or unsaturated aliphatic acyl group, and Alk represents CH ₂CH ₂, CHCH ₃CH ₂And/or CH ₂CHCH ₃, n is 0.5-5, M representative those cationes as describing among the DE-OS197 36 906.5,

The monoglyceride sulfate of-general formula (VI) and single acid glycerol ether-ether sulfate,

-

-

-R wherein ⁸CO represents a straight chain or a chain acyl of 6-22 carbon atom, and the summation of x, y and z is 0 or represents 1-30, preferred 2-10, and x represents alkali or alkaline-earth metal.In the context of the present invention, the exemplary of suitable single acid glycerol (ether) ester sulfate is lauric acid monoglyceride, cocoa powder fatty acid monoglyceride, Palmic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adduct, with the product of the chlorosulfonic acid of sulfur trioxide or sodium-salt form.The preferred monoglyceride sulfate that adds general formula (VI), wherein R ⁸CO represents the straight chain acyl group of 8-18 carbon atom.

In other preferred implementation, cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises the mineral light stabilizer of at least a organic or mineral or modification.Described light stabilizer is at room temperature to be liquid or crystalline solid, and the energy that can absorb ultraviolet radiation and obtain with the emission of long-wave radiation form is for example as warm.Those of ordinary skills can distinguish UVA filter and UVB filter.Usually, UV-A and UV-B filter can also add as mixture.According to the present invention, preferably add the mixture of filter.

Organic UV-filter that the present invention of UV-filter uses is selected from dibenzoyl methane, cinnamate, diphenylacrylate ester, benzophenone, Camphora, p-aminobenzoate, o-aminobenzoa, salicylate, benzimidazole, symmetric or asymmetric replacement 1,3,5-triazine, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4-diaryl butadiene carboxylate and-carboxylic acid amide, three ring (5.2.1.0) decane ketone, benzyl malonic acid ester and described any mixture of enumerating component.The described organic UV-filter of UV-filter can be the molten or water soluble of oil.According to the present invention, the molten UV-filter of particularly preferred oil is 1-(4-tert-butyl phenyl)-3-(4 '-anisyl) propane-1,3-diketone (Parsol  1789), 1-phenyl-3-(4 '-isopropyl phenyl)-propane-1, the 3-diketone, 3-(4 '-the methyl benzal)-D, L-Camphora, 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, 4-(dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl group ester, 4-(dimethylamino)-benzoic acid amyl group ester, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxy cinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano group-3,3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester (octocrylene), salicylic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-isopropyl benzyl ester, heliophan (3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl Salicylate), 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group-4 '-the methyldiphenyl ketone, 2,2 '-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, 4-methoxybenzyl propylmalonic acid (benzmalonic) two-2-ethyl hexyl ester, 2,4,6-triphen amido-(right-carbonyl-2 '-ethyl-1 '-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine (octyl triazone), dioctyl butyramide triazinone (Uvasorb  HEB) and described any mixture of enumerating component.

The UV-filter of preferred water soluble be 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali-, alkaline earth-, ammonium-, alkylammonium-, alkanol ammonium-and glucose ammonium salt; The sulfonic acid of benzophenone, preferred 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxy benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salt; The sulfonic acid of 3-benzylidene camphor, example are 4-(the bornenyl methyl of 2-oxygen-3-) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5-(2-oxygen-3-is bornenyl) sulfonic acid and their salt.

Some oily molten UV-filters can be as the solvent or the solubilizing agent of other UV-filters.Therefore, for example can in various UV-B filters, add UV-filtering agent 1-(4-tert-butyl phenyl)-3-(4 '-anisyl) propane-1, the solution of 3-diketone (for example Parsol  1789).I is in other preferred embodiment, therefore compositions of the present invention comprises, with be selected from 4-methoxy cinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, 2-cyano group-3,3-phenyl-cinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, salicylic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester and 3,3, at least a bonded 1-of the UV-B filter of 5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (4-tert-butyl phenyl)-3-(4 '-anisyl) propane-1, the 3-diketone.In these compositionss, UV-B filter and 1-(4-tert-butyl phenyl)-3-(4 '-anisyl) propane-1, the weight ratio of 3-diketone is 1: 1-10: 1, preferred 2: 1-8: 1, mol ratio correspondingly is 0.3-3.8, between the preferred 0.7-3.0.

Preferred inorganic light stabilizer pigment of the present invention is fine dispersion or colloidal dispersion metal-oxide and slaine, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, ferrum oxide, aluminium oxide, ceria, zirconium oxide, silicate (Talcum) and barium sulfate.Here, the average diameter of described particle is preferably the 5-50 nanometer less than 100 nanometers, 15-30 nanometer especially, so-called nano dye.They can be spherical, yet can use particles oval or other forms equally.Described pigment equally can surface treatment, i.e. hydrophiling or hydrophobization.Exemplary is the titanium dioxide of coating, such as TitandioxidT805 (Degussa) or Eusolex  T2000 (Merck).The hydrophobic coating agent preferably includes tri-alkoxy octyl group silane or dimethicone.Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are particularly preferred.

In addition, skin treatment agent of the present invention comprises that at least a protein hydrolysate or its derivant prove particularly advantageous.According to the present invention, the protein hydrolysate of described adding can be plant-derived and from animal.The animal protein hydrolyzate for example is elastin laminin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolyzate, and the form of all right their salt exists.According to the present invention, the protein hydrolysate of plant origin for example Semen sojae atricolor, Semen Tritici aestivi, Semen Armeniacae Amarum, Semen Pisi sativi, Rhizoma Solani tuber osi and rice protein hydrolyzate is preferred.Corresponding commodity for example are DiaMin  (Diamalt), Gluadin  (Cognis), Lexein  (Inolex) and Crotein  (Croda).

Except described protein hydrolysate, at first can add the ispol that obtains in other mode, secondly can add independent aminoacid and the compatible salt of their physiology equally.Preferred amino acids of the present invention comprises glycine, serine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine, glutamine, pyroglutamic acid, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, tyrosine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine and described amino acid whose zinc salt and the acid-addition salts enumerated.

Equally, can add the derivant of protein hydrolysate, for example with their fatty acid condensation product form.Described corresponding goods for example is Lamepon  (Cognis), Gluadin  (Cognis), Lexein  (Inolex), Crolastin  or Crotein  (Croda).

According to the present invention, the cationic protein hydrolyzate is available equally, and the base material of wherein said protein hydrolysate can derive from the protein hydrolysate in animal, plant, marine organisms form or biotechnology source.The cationic protein hydrolyzate is preferred, and the molecular weight of its basic protein content is 100-25000 dalton, preferred 250-5000 dalton.And the cationic protein hydrolyzate is understood to include quaternized aminoacid and their mixture.And described cationic protein hydrolyzate can also further be derived.The exemplary of cationic protein hydrolyzate of the present invention and derivant is a commercially available product and at " InternationalCosmeticIngredientDictionaryandHandbook ", (seventhedition1997, TheCosmetic, Toiletry, andFragranceAssociation110117thStreet, N.W., Suite300, Washington, those that enumerate in DC20036-4702): cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolytic collagen, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl caseinhydrolysate, stearic diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolytic collagen, stearic diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolysis hair keratin, lauryl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolysis of keratin, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolysis rice protein, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed-silk cocoyl, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolysing soybean protein, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocoyl diimmonium hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, hydroxypropyl arginine lauryl/myristyl ether HCl, hydroxypropyl three imonium gels.Described cationic protein hydrolyzate and derivant based on plant is quite particularly preferred.

The present composition comprises that based on total composition content be the protein hydrolysate of 0.01-10wt% and their derivant, perhaps aminoacid and their derivant.The preferred 0.1-5wt% of its content, preferred especially 0.1-3wt%.

In addition, skin treatment agent of the present invention comprises at least a single, oligomeric or polysaccharide, and perhaps its derivant proves particularly advantageous.

According to the present invention, suitable monosaccharide for example is glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, trehalose and rhamnose deoxysaccharide and amino sugar are such as glycosamine or galactosamine.Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and trehalose are preferred, and glucose is particularly preferred.

According to the present invention, suitable oligosaccharide is by two to ten monosaccharide units, and for example sucrose, lactose or trehalose are formed.Sucrose is particularly preferred oligosaccharide.Use and comprise that mainly the Mel of dextrose plus saccharose is particularly preferred equally.

According to the present invention, suitable polysaccharide is by forming more than ten monosaccharide units.Preferred polysaccharide is based on the unitary starch of alpha-D-glucose and starch decomposition products such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrin.According to the present invention, chemistry and/or heat modification starch for example hydroxypropyl starch phosphate ester, the two starch esters of dihydroxypropyl phosphoric acid or commodity DryFlo  are particularly advantageous.Dextran and their derivant, for example dextran sulfate is preferred equally.Non-ionic cellulose derivative, such as methylcellulose, hydroxy propyl cellulose or hydroxyethyl-cellulose, and cationic cellulose derivative, for example commodity Celquat  and Polymer JR , with preferred Celquat  H 100, (400 (Polyquaternium-10) and Polyquaternium-24 are preferred equally for Celquat  L 200 and Polymer JR.Preferred in addition example is from the unitary polysaccharide of trehalose, for example commodity Fucogel .Based on the acetyl derivative that takes off of amino sugar unitary polysaccharide, particularly chitin and they, chitosan and mucopolysaccharide are particularly preferred.Preferred mucopolysaccharide comprises hyaluronic acid and its derivant according to the present invention, for example hyaluronate sodium or dimethyl-silicon alkanol hyaluronic acid ester, and chrondroitin and its derivant, for example chondroitin sulfate.

In a particularly advantageous embodiment, skin treatment agent of the present invention comprise be selected from can be that cation, anion, amphion or non-ionic film forming, Emulsion natural and synthetic polymer are stable, thickening or adhesive polymer at least a.

Cationic according to the present invention, anionic and non-ionic polyalcohol is preferred.

The preferred cation polymer comprises the polysiloxanes with quaternary groups, commodity Q2-7224 (Dow Corning) for example, Dow Corning  929 Emulsion (having poly dimethyl silica amine), SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker) and Abil -Quat3270 and 3272 (Th.Goldschmidt).

Can support active substance active function of the present invention, the preferred anionic surfactants polymer comprises carbonyl hydrochlorate and/or sulfonate groups, and for example acrylic acid, methacrylic acid .beta.-methylacrylic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid are as monomer.Herein, acidic-group can be all or part of can sodium, potassium, ammonium, list or triethanol ammonium exist.Preferred monomer is 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid and acrylic acid.Quite particularly preferred anionic polymer comprises 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid as unique monomer or comonomer, and wherein said sulfonic group can completely or partially exist with salt.In this embodiment, preferably use the copolymer of at least a anionic monomer and at least a non-ionic monomer.About described anionic monomer, referring to above-mentioned material.Preferred non-ionic monomer is acrylamide, Methacrylamide, acrylate, methacrylate, vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl Ether and vinyl esters.The preferred anionic surfactants copolymer is an acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymer, particularly has the monomeric polyacrylamide copolymer of the sulfonic group of comprising.Particularly preferred anionic copolymer is made up of 70-55 mole % acrylamide and 30-45 mole %2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid, and wherein said sulfonic group can completely or partially exist with sodium, potassium, ammonium, list or tri ethanol ammonium salt.This copolymer can also be crosslinked, and wherein said preferred cross-linking agents comprises that the polyene unsaturated compound is such as tetraene propoxyl group ethane, allyl sucrose, pi-allyl tetramethylolmethane and methylene-bisacrylamide.Such polymer is included in the commodity Sepigel  305 of SEPPIC company.In the context of the present invention's instruction, use this chemical compound to be proved to be particularly advantageous.Sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers is proved to be effective especially equally according to the present invention, and described copolymer commerce turns to the complex with 2-Methylpentadecane and polysorbate80, and commodity are called Simulgel  600.

Particularly preferred in addition anionic homopolymer and copolymer are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acid.Herein, preferred cross-linking agents is the allyl ether of tetramethylolmethane, sucrose and propylene.Commodity Carbopol  is the example of such chemical compound, and a particularly preferred anionic copolymer comprises the unsaturated of 80-98%, the optional C that replaces _3-6Carboxylic acid or its anhydride, and the optional saturated C that replaces of 2-20% _10-30The monomer of the acrylate of carboxylic acid, wherein said copolymer can carry out crosslinked with above-mentioned cross-linking agent.The commodity of described correspondence are Pemulen , Carbopol  type 954,980,1342 and ETD2020 (B.F.Goodrich).

Suitable non-ionic polyalcohol for example be can be partly-hydrolysed polyvinyl alcohol, for example commodity Mowiol , and vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl ester copolymer, and polyvinyl pyrrolidone for example sell with trade name Luviskol  (BASF).

In the other preferred implementation of the present invention, the effect of reagent of the present invention can further be optimized by means of fat.The example of suitable fat is:

-vegetable oil is such as the liquid part of Oleum helianthi, olive oil, Oleum Glycines, Oleum Brassicae campestris, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, Fructus Persicae kernel oil and described Oleum Cocois.

-saxol, isoparaffinic oil and synthetic hydrocarbon, for example 1,3-two-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexane extraction (Cetiol ^S) or poly decene,

-have altogether two-just alkyl ether, for example two-n-octyl ether (Cetiol of 12-36, special 12-24 carbon atom ^OE), the positive decyl ethers of n-hexyl n-octyl ether and n-octyl.

-fatty acid, particularly straight chain and/or side chain, saturated and/or unsaturated C _8-30-fatty acid.C _10-22-fatty acid is preferred.Example has isostearic acid and different Palmic acid, such as the fatty acid of selling with trade name Edenor .The other exemplary of this type of fatty acid is caproic acid, sad, 2 ethyl hexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, different tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gaducene acid, mountain Yu's acid, sinapic acid and their industrial mixtures.Usually, be particularly preferred from Oleum Cocois and palmitic fatty acid part; It is especially preferred to add stearic acid.

-aliphatic alcohol particularly has saturated, single or polyunsaturated, the side chain or the straight-chain fatty alcohol of 6-30, preferred 10-22, preferred quite especially 12-22 carbon atom.In scope of the present invention, suitable examples is decanol, capryl alcohol, matsutake alcohol, lanolin alcohol, decenol, octadienol, Pherocon CM, decadinene alcohol, oleyl alcohol, suitable 22 carbon-13-enol, ricinoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, iso stearyl alcohol, hexadecanol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol, capryl alcohol, decanoin alcohol, inferior oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and Guerbet alcohol, 2-Ethylhexyl Alcohol for example, listed only is illustration rather than restriction.

-ester oil promptly contains C _2-30The C of-aliphatic alcohol _6-30The ester of-fatty acid.The fatty-acid monoester that contains 2-24 carbon atom alcohol is preferred.Above-mentioned material can be as the pure and mild acid constituents of ester oil.According to the present invention, preferred especially isopropyl myristate, different n-nonanoic acid C _16-18-Arrcostab, 2-ethylhexyl cetylate, stearic acid ethyl hexyl ester, cetyl oleate, tricaprylin, coconut oil fat alcohol nor-leucine ester (caprinate)/-caprylate, n-butyl stearate, erucic acid oil alkene ester, isopropyl palmitate, oleic oil alkene ester, lauric acid hexyl ester, adipic acid-di-n butyl ester, myristic acid myristin, different n-nonanoic acid spermaceti aliphatic alcohol (cetearyl) ester and oleic acid decyl ester.

-hydroxy carboxylic acid Arrcostab, wherein hydroxyacetic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or the citric acid of esterification are preferred fully, and ethylene lactic acid, hydroxymalonic acid., D-gluconic acid, saccharic acid, glactaric acid or glucuronic acid (glucoronic acid) be suitable, particularly preferably is C _12-C15The ester of aliphatic alcohol, Enichem for example, the commodity Cosmacol  of AugustaIndustriale,

-dicarboxylic ester, such as adipic acid-di-n butyl ester, adipic acid two (2-ethylhexyl) ester, succinic acid two-(2-ethylhexyl) ester, acetic acid two-three isodecyl esters, and diol ester, such as two oleic acid glycol esters, two-different ficocerylic acid glycol ester, propylene glycol two (2-ethylhexanoate), two-isostearic acid propylene glycol ester, two n-nonanoic acid propylene glycol esters, two isostearic acid butanediol esters, two sad DOPCP

Symmetric, the asymmetrical or cyclic ester of-aliphatic alcohol and carbon dioxide, for example carbonic acid glyceride, carbonic acid two sufferings (dicaprylyl) ester (Cetiol  CC),

-glycerol and saturated and/or unsaturated straight chain and/or branched chain fatty acid single, two and tri-fatty acid ester, Monomuls  90-O18 for example, Monomuls  90-L12 or Cutina  MD,

-wax, particularly insect wax, such as Cera Flava and Radix Et Rhizoma Rhei Cera Flava, vegetable wax is such as candelilla wax and Brazil wax, fruit wax, ceresine, microwax, ceresin, paraffin, saturated and optional hydroxylated C _16-30The triglyceride of fatty acid, such as the triglyceride (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydration Oleum Ricini) of hydrogenated oil and fat, three mountain Yu acid glycerol base esters, glyceryl three (12-hydroxy stearic acid ester), fatty acid and glycol (for example Syncrowachs ) or contain 2-6 the synthetic complete ester of carbon atom polyhydric alcohol, optional hydroxylated C _2-4Carboxylic acid and lanolin alcohol and C _12-18The ester of aliphatic alcohol, C _10-30The cholesterol ester of fatty acid or lanosterol ester, ethoxylation C _12-20The fatty acid diol ester contains C _12-22Acyl group and C _2-4The fatty acid monoalkylol amide of triacontanol group, synthetic fatty acid aliphatic alcohol ester, for example stearic acid stearyl ester or cetin, and the fatty acid of natural origin and synthetic C _20-40The ester type waxes of aliphatic alcohol (the INCI name is called C20-40Alkyl Stearate),

-polysiloxane compound, be selected from decamethylcyclopentaandoxane, decamethyl ring six siloxanes and siloxane polymer, can be optional crosslinked, the polydialkysiloxane of polydialkysiloxane, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane, ethoxylation for example, the INCI name of preferred described material is called DimethiconeCopolyol (the poly-dimethicone that contains polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chain), and comprises the polydialkysiloxane of amine and/or hydroxyl.

In all cases, based on composition total weight, described fat content is 0.1-50wt%, preferred 0.1-20wt%, preferred especially 0.1-15wt%.

In the other preferred implementation of the present invention, skin treatment agent comprises at least a alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds or α-keto-carboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt.Suitable alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds or α-keto-carboxylic acid are selected from lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, the 2-hydroxybutyric acid, 2, the 3-dihydroxypropionic acid, the 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, the 2-hydroxycaproic acid, 2-hydroxyl enanthic acid, the 2-Hydroxycaprylic acid, the 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyl lauric acid, 2-hydroxyl ten tetra-carbonics, the acid of 2-hydroxy-16 carbon, 2-hydroxyl 18 carbonic acid, mandelic acid, the 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, mesotartaric acid, tartaric acid, glucosaccharic acid, galactosaccharic acid, aldaric acid, gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl succinic acid, gluconic acid, acetone acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid.The described ester of enumerating acid is selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, butyl, amyl group, amyl group, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl group, decyl, dodecyl and cetyl ester.Described alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds or α-keto-carboxylic acid or their derivant, each content based on total composition is 0.1-10wt%, preferred 0.5-5wt%.

Can be included in interior typical other active substance, auxiliary agent and the additive of reagent of the present invention is:

-from vitamin, rovitamin and the previtamin thing of A, C, E and F family, particularly 3, the two dehydroretinols (dehydroretinol) of 4-, β-phylloerythrin (provitamin of retinol1), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), reach the ester of Palmic acid, the glucosides or the phosphate ester of ascorbic acid, tocopherol particularly alpha-tocopherol with and ester, for example acetas, nicotinate, phosphate ester and succinate; In addition, vitaminF is interpreted as essential fatty acid, particularly linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid;

-allantoin,

-bisabolol,

-antioxidant; for example imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and their derivant; peptide is such as D; the L-carnosine; the D-carnosine; L-carnosine and their derivant (for example anserine); chlorogenic acid and their derivant; liponic acid and their derivant (for example dihydro liponic acid); aurothioglucose; propylthiouracil and other mercaptan (sulfur oxygen cyclase protein (thioredoxine) for example; glutathion; cysteine; cystine; cystamine and their glycosyl-; positive acetyl group-; methyl-; ethyl-; propyl group-; amyl group-; butyl-; lauryl-; palmityl-; oleyl-; γ-Ya oil base-; cholesteryl-and glyceride); and their salt; dilauryl thiodipropionate; distearyl thiodipropionate; thio-2 acid and its derivant (ester; ether; peptide; lipoid; nucleotide; nucleoside and salt); and the sulfo group oxime compound of very small compatible dosage (for example pmol to μ mol/kg) (fourth thionine sulfo group oxime (buthioninesulfoximine) for example; homocysteine sulfo group oxime; fourth thionine sulfone; penta-; oneself-; thionine in heptan (thionine) sulfo group oxime); (α-hydrogen-oxygen the fat for example of (metal)-chelate in addition; Palmic acid; phytic acid; lactotransferrin); humic acid; gallic acid; bile extract; bilirubin; biliverdin; ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA); EGTA ethylene glycol bistetraacetic acid (EGTA) and its derivant; the derivant of unsaturated fatty acid and they (gamma-Linolenic acid for example; linoleic acid; oleic acid); folic acid and its derivant; ubiquinone and pantothenol and their derivant; the resin of Benzoinum coniferyl benzoate; rutinic acid and its derivant; alpha-glycosyl rutin (glycosylrutine); anisic acid; the furfurylidene glucitol; carnosine; butylated hydroxytoluene; the butylhydroxy anethole; the nordihydroguajac resinic acid; nordihydroguajaret acid; THBP 2,4,5 trihydroxybutyrophenone; uric acid and its derivant; catalase; superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivant (ZnO for example; ZnSO ₄), selenium and its derivant (for example selenium methionine), the derivant of the derivant of stilbene and they (for example stilbene oxide, trans stilbene oxide) and suitable these active substances as antioxidant (salt, ester, ether, sugar, nucleotide, nucleoside, peptide and lipoid).

-ceramide and false vitalility be through amide,

-triterpene, particularly triterpene acid ratio such as ursolic acid, rosmarinic acid, belulinic acid Betulinic acid, boswellic acid and bryonolic acid,

-monomeric catechuic acid, particularly catechuic acid, epicatechin, leucoanthocyanidin, catechuic acid polymer (catechuic acid-tannic acid) and tannic acid,

-thickening agent, example gel, the gluey agar-agar of plant, guar gum, alginate, xanthane glue, arabic gum, karaya, carob pod fruit powder, natural and synthesis of clay, such as Bentonite, Strese Hofmann's hectorite., montorillonite clay or LAPONITE , complete synthetic hydrocolloid is such as polyvinyl alcohol, and fatty acid calcium, magnesium or zinc

-plant glucoside,

-structural agent is such as maleic acid and lactic acid,

-dimethyl isosorbite,

-A-, β-and γ-cyclodextrin, be used in particular for stablizing retinol,

-solvent, swelling and penetrating agent, such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dihydroxypropane single-ether, glycerol, diethylene glycol, carbonate, bicarbonate, guanidine, urea and primary, the second month in a season and uncle's phosphate,

-aromatic oil makes painted pigment of reagent and coloring agent,

-PH regulator, α-and beta-hydroxycarboxylic acids for example,

-chelating agen, for example EDTA, NTA, Beta-alanine acetoacetic acid and phosphonic acids,

-opacifier, such as emulsion, styrene/PVP and styrene/acrylamide copolymer,

-pearling agent, for example glycol monomethyl and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,

-foaming agent is such as propane/butane mix, N ₂O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂And air and

In a preferred embodiment, skin treatment agent of the present invention exists with following form: liquid, solid, oil-in-water emulsion, water-in-oil emulsion, polynary emulsion, micro emulsion, PIT-emulsion, pik woods (Pickering) emulsion, hydrogel, fat gel, list or multi-phase solution, foam, powder, and perhaps with at least a mixture that is suitable for medicinal sticky polymers.Described reagent can also exist by anhydrous state, for example is oil or face cream.Be this purpose, carrier can be mixture plant or animal oil, mineral oil, artificial oil or described oil.

In a special embodiment of reagent of the present invention, described reagent exists with micro emulsion.In the context of the invention, micro emulsion is interpreted as referring to thermodynamically stable micro emulsion and so-called " PIT " emulsion.These emulsion are the ternary systems that contain water, oil and emulsifying agent, at room temperature exist with oil-in-water emulsion.Once heating, these systems form micro emulsion in specific range of temperatures (being called as phase inversion temperature or " PIT "), change Water-In-Oil (W/O) emulsion into through further heating again.Form O/W emulsion again with postcooling, however described emulsion equally at room temperature with below mean diameter 400 nanometers, the micro emulsion or the fine dispersion emulsion of special 100-300 nanometer exists.According to the present invention, preferred such mean diameter little or " PIT " emulsion is about 200 nanometers.The detailed description of " PIT emulsion " is for example seen publication Angew.Chem.97,655-669 (1985).

The antiperspirant effective ingredient can be included in the embodiment of the present invention as antiperspirant.According to the present invention, the astringent of water soluble or protein condenses metallic salt are suitable as the antiperspirant effective ingredient, particularly any mixture of the inorganic or organic salt of aluminum, zirconium, zinc and titanium and these salt.According to the present invention, water-soluble is interpreted as in 20 ℃ of every 100g solution and dissolves the active substance of 4g at least.Available Alumen (KAl (the SO that is typically of the present invention ₄) ₂12H ₂O), aluminum sulfate, aluctyl., Sodium aluminum chlorohydroxy lactate., chloro hydroxyl allantoinate aluminum, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminum phenolsulfonate, chloro hydrated alumina zirconium, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, hydration zirconium chloride, aluminum-zirconium-chloro hydration-glycine-complex and the aluminum chloride of alkalescence and the complex of propylene glycol or Polyethylene Glycol.The effective ingredient of described liquid preparation preferably includes astringent aluminum salt, particularly aluminium chlorohydrate and/or aluminum-zirconium chemical compound.Aluminium chlorohydrate, for example commodity turn to the powder type MicroDry  Ultrafine of Reheis, perhaps activated form Reach  501 or Reach  103, and the aqueous solution form Locron  L of clariant or the Chlorhydrol  of Reheis.The sesquialter chloro hydrated alumina of Reheis provider product Reach  301 by name.Equally, according to the present invention advantageously, it is particularly advantageous using aluminum-zirconium three or t four chlorohydrex-glycine complexes, and for example Reheis is commercial with trade name Rezal  36G.

The content of antiperspirant active substance is 0.01-40wt% based on the amount of active substance in the total composition in the compositions of the present invention, and preferred 2-30wt% is in particular 5-25wt%.

The deodorizer effective ingredient comprises in embodiments of the present invention as deodorizer.According to the present invention, suitable deodorization effective ingredient is essence, antimicrobial, antibacterial or antibacterial inhibitor, enzyme inhibitor, antioxidant and stink adsorbent.

Suitable antimicrobial medicament, antibacterial or bacteriostatic material be C particularly ₁-C ₄Alkanol, C ₂-C ₄Linear paraffin glycol, organohalogen compound, organohalogen compounds, quaternary ammonium compound, a series of plant extract and zinc compound.

In other preferred implementation, compositions of the present invention comprises the polyhydric alcohol of at least a water soluble, is selected from glycol, triol, senior polyhydroxy-alcohol and the Polyethylene Glycol of water soluble.Suitable glycol comprises C ₂-C ₁₂-glycol, particularly 1,2-propylene glycol, butanediol be such as 1,2-butanediol, 1,3 butylene glycol and 1,4-butanediol, pentanediol be pentane-1 for example, 2-glycol, and hexanediol hexane-1 for example, 6-glycol.In addition, glycerol and industrial be the oligomerization glycerol mixture of 1.5-10 from condensation degree, such as the industrial diglycerol mixture that contains the 40-50wt% diglycerol, perhaps triglycerin is preferred suitable, hexane-1 in addition, 2,6-triol and mean molecule quantity are the daltonian Polyethylene Glycol of 100-1000 (PEG), and for example PEG-400, PEG-600 or PEG-1000 also are suitable.Suitable in addition senior polyhydroxy-alcohol is C ₄-, C ₅-and C ₆-monosaccharide and corresponding sugar alcohol, for example mannitol or Sorbitol.

Compositions of the present invention comprises that in all cases based on total composition, content is the polyhydric alcohol of 1-50wt%, preferred 1-15wt% and preferred especially 1-5wt% water soluble.

Following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention and do not limit the present invention in any way.

Embodiment

Embodiment 1: plant extract is to the influence of Staphylococcus warneri (Staphylococcuswarneri) and Propionibacterium (Propionibacteriumacnes)

Optical density (OD) OD (620 nanometer) is the cultivation bacterium in 0.05 the LB medium, the Staphylococcus warneri and the Propionibacterium inoculation of cultivating with the liquid introduction.Parallel with tester (not adding cell or extract), cultivate bacterium each adds 1% plant extracts for 2 kinds, be recorded in growth in 30 hours by measuring OD.After 30 hours, the antibacterial that definite cultivation that adds extract is come out is distinguished with the OD of corresponding tester (do not contain the adding extract, be adjusted to the value that does not have cell).Black Semen sojae atricolor and Lapland pine (Epica , Rahn (Deutschland)) mixed extract, white spruce, guarana bubble woods rattan (guarana), Radix Ginseng (Radix Ginseng), lamium album (white Urtica) and black Semen sojae atricolor (Ribes nigrum L.) have the influence that promotes growth, corresponding inhibition Propionibacterium to Staphylococcus warneri.Described extract is from RahnCompany (Germany).

Table 1: various plant extracts are to the growth effect (OD later at 30 hours and tester is poor) of Staphylococcus warneri and Propionibacterium

	Guarana	Black Semen sojae atricolor/Lapland pine	Radix Ginseng	The white Urtica	The black Semen sojae atricolor/	White spruce
							Staphylococcus warneri	0.41	0.22	0.48	0.01	0.13	0.04
Propionibacterium	-0.04	-0.07	-0.02	-0.001	-0.02	-0.05

Example of formulations

Each refers to wt% content described data.

Composition	Filmated protective skin cream, O/W Emulsion [wt.%]
		Cetiol OE	7.0
Cetiol V	7.0

Lanette 22	7.0
		Lanette E	0.18
BaysilonlM350	0.5
		Vitamin E-acetas	1.0
Retinyl palmitate	1.0
		The D-pantothenol	1.0
Preceding life plant extract	1.0
		Glycerol	5.0
Formalin (37%)	0.08
		Water	Be added to 100

Composition	Embodiment 3.1:O/W-PIT-Emulsion [wt.%]	Embodiment 3.2:W/O-Emulsion [wt.%]
			Cetiol OE	7.5	7.0
Cetiol V	7.5	7.0
			Lanette O	4.0	-
Palmic acid glyceryl ester	2.2	-
			Eumulgin B2	2.1	-
BaysilonlM350	0.5	-
			Vitamin E-acetas	1.0	-
Retinyl palmitate	1.0	1.0
			Biotin	0.005	-
Dihydro-3-hydroxyl-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H)-furanone (pantolactone)	1.0	1.0
			Algae extract SPHM3002	-	1.0
Preceding life plant extract	1.0	1.0
			Glycerol	5.0	5.0
MgSO 4·H 2O	-	0.7
			Formalin (37%)	0.08	0.08
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

Composition	Embodiment 3.3: lipoprotein-protective skin cream	Embodiment 3.4: glycolipid-protective skin cream	Embodiment 3.5:
				Montanov 202	-	-	4.0
Ji oil	3.0	-	-
				Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil	-	3.0	-

Myritol PC	3.5	3.5	-
				Myritol 331	-	-	3.0
Myritol 318	-	-	2.0
				Cetiol MM	-	2.5	-
Cetiol B	-	-	7.0
				Cetiol SB45	-	-	0.5
Lanette 22	3.0	-	-
				Cutina GMS-V	3.0	4.0	2.0
Lanette O	3.0	2.0	1.0
				Edenor IPS	6.0	6.0	-
Cosmacol PLG	-	3.0	-
				BaysilonlM350	1.0	1.0	0.5
Eusolex 6300	0.6	0.6	3.0
				Parsol 1789	0.1	0.1	2.0
Controx KS	0.05	0.05	0.05
				The PHB-propyl ester	0.2	-	0.2
Preceding life plant extract	1.0	1.0	1.0
				Pantothenol	1.0	1.0	1.0
Herbasol The Radix Malvae sylvestris distillation	-	1.0	-
				Herbasol Herba Rosmarini Officinalis extract	-	-	1.0
DryFlo Plus	-	3.0	-
				1.6-hexanediol	-	6.0	-
Dipropylene glycol	-	5.0	-
				Glycerol	5.0	-	-
DSC-HN	-	5.0	-
				V-protein liquid	9.0	-	-
Tioveil -AQ-N	2.0	-	-
				Citric acid	0.1	-	-
Sepigel 305	3.0	0.4	-
				Methocel E4M	-	-	0.2
Herbasol The green tea distillation	-	1.0	-
				Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

Composition	Embodiment 3.6: gentle cleansing gel
		Eumulgin HRE40	0.6
Eucarol AGE-ET	2.0
		1.2-propylene glycol	10.0

Preceding life plant extract	1.0
		Bisabolol	0.1
The D-pantothenol	0.5
		The PHB-propyl ester	0.1
The PHB-methyl ester	0.2
		Carbopol ETD2020(0.5％)	50.0
Water	Be added to 100

Composition	Embodiment 3.7 substrate ointment:	Embodiment 3.8 substrate ointment:
			DURO-TAK 	76	76
Preceding life plant extract	1.0	1.0
			Ultrasome TM	-	0.1
Pantothenol	2	-
			Dihydro-3-hydroxyl-4.4-dimethyl-2 (3H)-furanone (pantolactone)	-	2
Herbasol The Althaea officinalis L. distillation	1	-
			Herbasol The green tea distillation	-	1
Aloe gel	1	1
			Tioveil -AQ-N	2	-
Eusolex OCR	1	-
			Single oleic acid propylene glycol ester	5	5
Controx KS	0.05	0.05
			Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

The composition of active reservoir	Embodiment 3.9 reservoir ointment:	Embodiment 3.10 reservoir ointment:
			Preceding life plant extract	1.0	1.0
Ultrasome TM	-	0.1
			Pantothenol	1.0	-
Pantolactone	-	1.0
			Bisabolol	1.0	1.0
Herbasol The Althaea officinalis L. distillation	-	1.0
			Ethanol	40	40
Mowiol 18-88	8.0	8.0
			Luviskol K80	5.0	5.0
Controx KS	0.05	0.05
			Brij -35	2.0	2.0
Cremophor CO-40	0.5	0.5
			Glycerol	5.0	5.0
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

4. oil-in-water emulsion

4.1. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				Flos Carthami	3.00	3.00	3.00
The caprylic/capric triglyceride	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Cocos nucifera oil glyceride	2.00	2.00	2.00
Behenyl alcohol	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Tristerin	2.00	2.00	2.00
The spermaceti aliphatic alcohol	1.00	1.00	1.00
				The stearic acid isopropyl esters	4.00	4.00	4.00
Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin	2.00	2.00	2.00
				Dimethicone	1.00	1.00	1.00
Hydrogenated palm glyceride citrate	0.05	0.05	0.05
				Propyl parabene	0.20	0.20	0.20
D5/poly dimethyl silanol	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Octenyl amber acid-starch aluminum	1.00	1.00	1.00
TiO 2	0.50	0.50	0.50
				Hexanediol	6.00	3.00

Propylene glycol	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Glycerol	5.00	3.00	3.00
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.20	0.20	0.20
				The sodium carbomer	0.40	0.40	0.40
Dimethyl-silicon alkanol hyaluronate	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Algae extract	1.00
Preceding life plant extract	0.5	0.8	1.2
				Essence	0.10	0.10	0.10
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

4.2. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				Different n-nonanoic acid spermaceti aliphatic alcohol ester	4.00	4.00	4.00
Mineral oil	6.00	6.00	6.00
				Tristerin/spermaceti aliphatic alcohol/cetyl palmitate/cocos nucifera oil glyceride	2.00	2.00	2.00
Palmic acid/stearic acid	1.50	1.50	1.50
				Ceteareth-30	1.00	1.00	1.00
Dimethicone	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Tocopherol acetas	0.50	0.50	0.50
Propyl parabene	0.30	0.30	0.30
				Semen pruni armeniacae oil	2.00	2.00	2.00
Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer	0.27	0.27	0.27
				Glycerol	5.00	3.00	3.00
Lactic acid	0.26	0.26	0.26
				Propylene glycol	5.00	5.00	5.00
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.30	0.30	0.30
				Phenoxyethanol	0.90	0.90	0.90
Pantothenol	0.50
				The palmate Thallus Laminariae (Thallus Eckloniae) extract	1.00
Sodium chloride	0.05	0.05	0.05
				Polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/(lauryl polyoxyethylene (7) ether) Laureth-7	0.50	0.50	0.50
Silk protein	0.25	0.25	0.25

Xanthane glue	0.20	0.20	0.20
				Preceding life plant extract	0.6	0.8	1.0
Essence	0.30	0.30	0.30
				Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

4.3. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				Hydrolecithin	0.50	0.50	0.50
The stearic acid isopropyl esters	4.00	4.00	4.00
				Dibutyl adipate	2.00	2.00	2.00
Tocopherol acetas	0.50	0.50	0.50
				Tristerin	1.00	1.00	1.00
Behenyl alcohol	2.00	2.00	2.00
				Dimethicone	0.50	0.50	0.50
Propyl parabene	0.20	0.20	0.20
				Cyclohexyl methyl siloxanes/dimethicone cross linked polymer	1.00	1.00	1.00
Glycerol	4.50	3.00	3.00
				Hexanediol	6.00	3.00
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.20	0.20	0.20
				The sodium carbomer	0.30	0.30	0.30
Dimethyl silanol hyaluronate	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Algae extract	1.00
Plankton extractions	0.20	0.20	0.20
				The former alkanol of dimethyl methoxy primary colours	0.01	0.01	0.01
Propylene glycol	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Palmityl penta peptide-3	3.00
The palmityl oligopeptide		2.00
				Palmityl tetrapeptide-1		1.00
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers/melissane/polysorbate60	1.50	1.50	1.50
				TiO 2	0.50	0.50
Preceding life plant extract	0.5	0.9	1.3
				Essence	0.35	0.35	0.35
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

4.4. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3	4	5
						Spermaceti aliphatic alcohol/spermaceti aliphatic alcohol glucosides	5.00	5.00	5.00	5.00	5.00
The caprylic/capric triglyceride	5.00	5.00	5.00	5.00	5.00
						Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
Cocos nucifera oil glyceride	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
						The spermaceti aliphatic alcohol	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
Tristerin	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
						Dimethicone	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
Tocopherol acetas	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
						Hydrogenated palm glyceride citrate	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25	0.25
Polysilicone-15		4.00	4.00
						Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid		2.00	2.00	2.00
Phenyl bisbenzimidazole tetrasulfonic acid disodium				1.00
						Octocrylene				5.00
4-ar-methoxy-benzylidene Camphora	2.00
						Butyl-methoxy dibenzoyl methylmethane	1.00	1.80	1.80
Propyl parabene	0.20	0.20	0.20	0.20	0.20
						The sodium carbomer	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
Hexanediol	6.00	6.00	3.00	6.00
						Talcum	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50	0.50
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.20	0.20	0.20	0.20	0.20
						Glycerol	4.50	4.50	3.00	4.50	3.00
The sour aluminum starch of octenyl amber	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
						Hydrolecithin	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00	1.00
The Fagus sylvatica extract	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
						Hydrolysing soybean protein	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
Dimethyl-silicon alkanol hyaluronate	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00	2.00
						Trisodium NTA	0.10	0.10	0.10	0.10	0.10
Phenoxyethanol	0.40	0.40	0.40	0.40	0.40
						Hydrolyzed wheat protein	3.00	3.00	3.00	3.00	3.00
Preceding life plant extract	0.8	1.2	1.0	1.0	1.2
						Essence	0.40	0.40	0.40	0.40	0.40
Water	Be added to 100		Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

4.5. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				C14-22 alcohol/C12-20 alkyl polyglucoside	3.00	3.00	3.00
Dibutyl adipate	6.00	6.00	6.00
				The caprylic/capric triglyceride	3.00	3.00	3.00
The spermaceti aliphatic alcohol	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Tristerin	0.50	0.50	0.50
Dimethicone	0.50	0.50	0.50
				Propyl parabene	0.20	0.20	0.20
D5/poly dimethyl silanol	1.50	1.50	1.50
				Glycerol	5.00	5.00	5.00
Sorbitol	3.00	3.00	3.00
				Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.20	0.20	0.20
The sour aluminum starch of octenyl amber	0.50	0.50	0.50
				The sodium carbomer	0.10	0.10	0.10
Dimethyl-silicon alkanol hyaluronate	2.00	2.00	2.00
				The LaminataDigitata extract	0.50	0.50	0.50
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers/melissane/polysorbate60	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Preceding life plant extract	0.4	0.8	1.2
Essence	0.20	0.20	0.20
				Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

5. water in oil emulsion

	1	2	3
				Polyglyceryl-3 diisopstearate	3.0	3.0	3.0
PEG-45/ dodecyl glycol copolymer	0.5	0.5	0.5
				Microwax	3.0	3.0	3.0
Two-two many acyl groups of glycerol adipate esters-2	1.0	1.0	1.0
				Paraffin oil	8.0	8.0	8.0
Vaseline	2.0	2.0	2.0
				Vitamin E-acetas	2.0	2.0	2.0
Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.3	0.3	0.3
				Propyl parabene	0.3	0.3	0.3

The isostearic acid isopropyl esters	8.0	8.0	8.0
				Glycerol	5.0	3.0	3.0
Magnesium sulfate	0.5	0.5	0.5
				Plant extract	0.8	1.2	1.5
Lactic acid 80%	0.560	0.560	0.560
				Algae extract	1.0
Pantothenol	0.5	1.0	0.5
				The Flos Inulae flower extract	0.3
Propylene glycol	0.5
				Essence	0.2	0.2	0.2
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

6. cleaning formulation

6.1. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				Dipropylene glycol	10.00	10.00	10.00
The chlorhexidine digluconate	1.00	1.00	1.00
				Poloxamer-184	3.00	3.00	3.00
Pantothenol	0.50	0.50	0.50
				The chitosan glycolate	3.00	3.00	3.00
PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated/tridecyl polyoxyethylene (9) ether (Trideceth-9)/propylene glycol	0.50	0.50	0.50
				Chlorella extract	0.50	0.50	0.50
Preceding life plant extract	0.4	0.8	1.2
				Essence	0.20	0.20	0.20
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

6.2. serial embodiment:

	1	2	3
				Carbomer	1.40	1.40	1.40
Sorbitol	2.10	2.10	2.10
				Sodium benzoate	0.40	0.40	0.40
Plantacare APG 1200G	7.50	7.50	7.50
				Cocamido propyl betaine	3.40	3.40	3.40
Month silica-based polyoxyethylene ether sulfo-succinic acid disodium	5.00	5.00	5.00
				PEG-7 glyceryl cocos nucifera oil ester	0.50	0.50	0.50
Cocos nucifera oil glucosides/olein	5.00	5.00	5.00
				Hydrogenated palm glyceride citrate	0.05	0.05	0.05
Sodium PCA	1.60	1.60
				Pantolactone	1.00	1.00
Four sodium edtas	0.25	0.25	0.25
				Sodium lactate	1.80
Pantothenol	0.50	0.50	0.50
				Preceding life plant extract	0.8	1.2	1.6
Essence	0.40	0.40	0.40
				Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

7. polysiloxanes bag aqueous emulsion

	1	2	3
				Dimethicone	2.50	2.50	2.50
The cyclohexyl methyl siloxanes	25.00	25.00	25.00
				Cetyl contains the poly-dimethicone of polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene side chain	2.00	2.00	2.00
Sodium chloride	2.00	2.00	2.00
				Essence	0.30	0.30	0.30
The chlorhexidine digluconate	0.20	0.20	0.20
				Preceding life plant extract	0.4	0.8	1.2
Water	Be added to 100	Be added to 100	Be added to 100

The raw material that uses:

Title	INCI
		AlgaeextraktSPHM3002	Water, algae (Linne)
Aloe Vera Gel (Provital SA): 0.85-1.55wt.% is at the propylene glycol/water active substance of the second month in a season	Aloe Barbadensis Miller (Linne)
		BaysilonlM350	Dimethione/dimethicone
Brij -35	Month silica-based polyoxyethylene ether-23
		Carbopol ETD2020(0.5％)	Acrylate/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer
Eumulgin B2	16/polyoxyethylene octadecanol-20
		Cetiol B	Dibutyl adipate
Cetiol MM	Myristic acid myristyl ester
		Cetiol SB45	Butyrospermum (Linne)
Controx KS：	Tocopherol, hydrogenated palm glyceride citrate
		Cosmacol PLG	Citric acid three-C12-13 Arrcostab
Cremophor CO-40	The PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated
		Cutina GMS(C16-18-Fattyacidmono-di- glyceride	Tristerin
Cetiol V	The oleic acid decyl ester
		Cetiol OE	Two caprylyl ethers
DryFlo Plus	The sour aluminum starch of octenyl amber
		DSC-HN(exExsymol)	Dimethyl-silicon alkanol hyaluronate
DURO- TAK (NationalStarchandChemical)：ca.50％Ac rylate- CopolymerinBenzine/Ethylacetate/Methanol/E thanol	Acrylate copolymer
		Eucarol AGE- ETUP(30％activesubstanceinwater)	Cocos nucifera oil polyglucose sodium tartrate
Eumulgin HRE40	The PEG-40 castor oil hydrogenated
		Eusolex 6300	4 methyl benzylidene camphor
Eusolex OCR：	Octocrylene
		Herbasol Distillateofmarshmallow(Cosmetoch em)	Water, alcohol, denat, Radix althaeae roseae white mitcham peppermint (Altheaofficinalis)
Herbasol distillateofGreenTea	Water, tea (Camelliasinensis) extract
		Herbasol distillatemallow(Cosmetochem)	Water, SD alcohol 39-C, Radix Malvae sylvestris (Linne)

Herbasol ExtractRosemary	Water, propylene glycol, Herba Rosmarini Officinalis
		Edenor IPS	The stearic acid isopropyl esters
Lanette E	The spermaceti sodium alkyl sulfate
		Lanette O	The spermaceti aliphatic alcohol
Lanette 22	Behenyl alcohol
		Lifidrem PPST-GHK-4(Coletica)：Peaprotein- Extract/C 16-18fattyacidcondensate	Semen Pisi sativi extract (Semen Pisi sativi (Linne)), sodium stearate, sodium chloride
Methocel E4M	Hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose
		Montanov 202	Arachidic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, arachidic alcohol glucosides
Myritol 318	The caprylic/capric triglyceride
		Myritol 331	Cocos nucifera oil glyceride
Myritol PC	Two sad propylene glycol ester/dicaprates
		Eveningprimroseoil	Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae (Linne)
Parsol 1789	PAROSOL 1789
		pHB-Propylester	Propyl parabene
Photosome TM	Plankton extractions and lecithin
		Mowiol 18-88	Polyvinyl alcohol, partly-hydrolysed
Luviskol K80	Polyvinyl pyrrolidone
		Sepigel 305	Polyacrylamide, C13-14 isoparaffin, (lauryl polyoxyethylene (7) ether) Laureth-7
Tioveil -AQ- N(Uniqema)：Titaniumdioxidedispersion	CI77891 (titanium dioxide), aluminium oxide, silicon dioxide, sodium polyacrylate
		Ultrasome TM	The micrococcus lysate
V-ProteinliquidCOS152/22A(Cosmetochem)	Water, propylene glycol, hydrolysis pea protein (Semen Pisi sativi)
		VitaminE-acetate	Tocopherol acetas

Claims (28)

1. the plant extract that skin is had preceding life influence, the purposes in the topical cosmetic skin treatment compositions of the skin growth of microorganism that promotes to wish.

2. according to the purposes of claim 1, wherein saidly wish that the skin microorganism is saprophytic skin microorganism.

3. according to the purposes of claim 1, wherein saidly wish that the skin microorganism is a coagulase negative staphylococcus.

4. according to the purposes of claim 3, wherein said coagulase negative staphylococcus is staphylococcus epidermidis (S.epidermidis) or Staphylococcus warneri (S.warneri).

5. according to each purposes of claim 1-4, the skin microorganism of wherein said hope is the bacillus of skin-friendly.

6. according to the purposes of claim 5, the bacillus of wherein said skin-friendly is Bacillus licheniformis (Bacillus licheniformis).

7. according to each purposes of claim 1-6, the wherein said plant extract that skin is had a preceding life influence suppresses undesirable skin microbial growth simultaneously.

8. the plant extract that skin is had preceding life influence, the purposes in the topical cosmetic skin treatment compositions that suppresses undesirable skin growth of microorganism.

9. according to the purposes of claim 7 or 8, wherein said undesirable microorganism is a pathogenic microorganism.

10. according to each purposes of claim 7-9, wherein said undesirable microorganism is a coagulase-positive staphylococci.

11. according to each purposes of claim 7-9, wherein said undesirable microorganism is Propionibacterium (Propionibacterium acnes).

12., be used for the treatment of unsound, exsiccant or greasy skin according to each purposes of claim 1-11.

13. the purposes according to claim 12 is used for the treatment of acne.

14., be used to handle the dermatophytes or the treatment dandruff according to each purposes of claim 1-11.

15. skin is had the plant extract topical cosmetic that life is treated before preparation is used for skin of preceding life influence or the purposes of medical composition.

16. according to the purposes of claim 15, the growth of wherein passing through the antibacterial of the described hope of promotion realizes preceding life influence.

17., wherein realize preceding life influence by suppressing undesirable bacterial growth according to the purposes of claim 15.

18. according to each purposes of claim 1-17, wherein said plant extract is the extract of coniferae, the extract of particularly Pinaceae (Pinacae), or Sapindaceae (Sapindaceae), Araliaceae (Araliaceae), Labiatae (Lamiaceae), Saxifragaceae (Saxifragaceae) or its mixture.

19. according to the purposes of claim 18, wherein said plant extract is the extract of Picea kind (Picea spp.), Pinus kind (Pinus sp.), Paullinia (plan) kind (Paullinia sp.), Panax's kind (Panax sp.), lamium kind (Lamium sp.), currant genus kind of (Ribes sp.) or its mixture.

20. according to each purposes of claim 1-19, wherein said skin treating is preventative.

21. according to each purposes of claim 1-20, wherein based on described composition total weight, the content of described plant extract is 0.01-20wt%.

22. one kind comprises cosmetics or the medical composition that skin is had the plant extract of preceding life influence.

23. according to the cosmetics or the medical composition of claim 22, wherein said compositions is partial skin treatment agent.

24. according to the cosmetics or the medical composition of claim 22 or 23, wherein said plant extract is the extract of coniferae, particularly Pinaceae, or the extract of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Labiatae, Saxifragaceae or its mixture.

25. according to the cosmetics or the medical composition of claim 24, wherein said plant extract is Picea kind, Pinus kind, Paullinia (plan) kind, Panax's kind, lamium kind, the currant genus is planted or the extract of its mixture.

26. according to each cosmetics or medical composition of claim 22-25, wherein said compositions comprises at least a other material, is selected from following at least a:

The sun-proof filter of-organic and inorganic, modified inorganic,

The vitamin of-vitamin B group, rovitamin or previtamin thing, the derivant of perhaps their derivant, and 2-furanone, pantothenol, pantolactone, nicotiamide and biotin,

-other plant extract,

-MMP-1-inhibiting substances,

-retinol (retinol1) and C _2-18The ester of carboxylic acid.

27. according to each cosmetics or medical composition of claim 22-26, wherein said compositions comprises at least a other material, described material is selected from following at least one group:

-as the surfactant of emulsifying agent or dispersant,

-aminoacid, their zinc salt and their acid-addition salts,

-film forming and/or Emulsion stable and/or thickening and/or sticky polymers,

-fat, surfactant, antiperspirant and polyhydric alcohol,

The sun-proof filter of mineral of-organic, mineral, modification,

-protein hydrolysate and their derivant,

-single, oligomeric and polysaccharide and their derivant,

-alpha-hydroxy carboxylic acid compounds and α-keto-carboxylic acid and their ester, lactone or salt.

28. according to each cosmetics or medical composition of claim 22-27, wherein said compositions is included in soap, washing liquid, Emulsion, spray, protective skin cream, shampoo or the ointment.