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CN117653580B - Herba Lophatheri extract, and its preparation method and application in cosmetics - Google Patents

Herba Lophatheri extract, and its preparation method and application in cosmetics Download PDF

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CN117653580B
CN117653580B CN202311530205.6A CN202311530205A CN117653580B CN 117653580 B CN117653580 B CN 117653580B CN 202311530205 A CN202311530205 A CN 202311530205A CN 117653580 B CN117653580 B CN 117653580B
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orchid
herba lophatheri
orchid extract
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CN117653580A (en
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高洁
李�杰
杨凤玺
朱根发
金建鹏
陆楚桥
魏永路
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Environmental Horticulture Institute of Guangdong Academy of Agricultural Sciences
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001Preparations for care of the lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D3/00Other compounding ingredients of detergent compositions covered in group C11D1/00
    • C11D3/48Medical, disinfecting agents, disinfecting, antibacterial, germicidal or antimicrobial compositions
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C11ANIMAL OR VEGETABLE OILS, FATS, FATTY SUBSTANCES OR WAXES; FATTY ACIDS THEREFROM; DETERGENTS; CANDLES
    • C11DDETERGENT COMPOSITIONS; USE OF SINGLE SUBSTANCES AS DETERGENTS; SOAP OR SOAP-MAKING; RESIN SOAPS; RECOVERY OF GLYCEROL
    • C11D9/00Compositions of detergents based essentially on soap
    • C11D9/04Compositions of detergents based essentially on soap containing compounding ingredients other than soaps
    • C11D9/22Organic compounds, e.g. vitamins
    • C11D9/38Products in which the composition is not well defined
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/52Stabilizers
    • A61K2800/522Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/82Preparation or application process involves sonication or ultrasonication
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/84Products or compounds obtained by lyophilisation, freeze-drying

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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Abstract

本发明公开一种竹叶兰提取物及其制备方法和在化妆品中的应用,属于中药领域。本发明获得的竹叶兰提取物中含有熊果苷、北升麻宁、异甘草素等参与酪氨酸酶抑制物质,以及山奈酚‑3‑O‑a‑L‑鼠李糖苷、木犀草素、山奈酚、绿原酸等参与抗氧化的物质。该竹叶兰提取物可对酪氨酸酶产生抑制作用,同时具有抗氧化能力和保湿能力,可作为美白、保湿、抗氧化功效化妆品原料,能有效达成美白、祛斑、预防黑色素沉淀、保湿、抗氧化等功效。现有技术中并未检测到竹叶兰提取物应用于化妆品的记载,对竹叶兰提取物在化妆品中的应用有助于增益竹叶兰提取物的应用范围及经济价值。

The present invention discloses a bamboo orchid extract, a preparation method thereof and an application thereof in cosmetics, and belongs to the field of traditional Chinese medicine. The bamboo orchid extract obtained by the present invention contains arbutin, beishengmanin, isoliquiritigenin and other substances involved in tyrosinase inhibition, as well as kaempferol-3-O-a-L-rhamnoside, luteolin, kaempferol, chlorogenic acid and other substances involved in anti-oxidation. The bamboo orchid extract can inhibit tyrosinase, and has antioxidant and moisturizing abilities, and can be used as a raw material for whitening, moisturizing and antioxidant cosmetics, and can effectively achieve whitening, freckle removal, prevention of melanin precipitation, moisturizing, anti-oxidation and other effects. No records of bamboo orchid extract being used in cosmetics have been detected in the prior art, and the application of bamboo orchid extract in cosmetics is helpful to increase the application scope and economic value of bamboo orchid extract.

Description

一种竹叶兰提取物及其制备方法和在化妆品中的应用A kind of bamboo leaf orchid extract and its preparation method and application in cosmetics

技术领域Technical Field

本发明属于中药领域,特别涉及一种竹叶兰提取物及其制备方法和在化妆品中的应用,具体涉及一种竹叶兰提取物及其制备方法和添加竹叶兰提取物的美白、抗氧化、保湿化妆品。The invention belongs to the field of traditional Chinese medicine, and particularly relates to a bamboo orchid extract and a preparation method thereof and application in cosmetics, specifically to a bamboo orchid extract and a preparation method thereof and whitening, anti-oxidation and moisturizing cosmetics added with the bamboo orchid extract.

背景技术Background Art

竹叶兰(Arundina graminifolia)为兰科竹叶兰属植物,又名草姜、山荸荠、百样解等,是一种地生草本。根据《中国植物志》记载,竹叶兰植株高40~80厘米花,果期主要为9~11月,但1~4月也有。竹叶兰广泛分布在热带及亚热带地区,如广东、云南、广西、海南、西藏等。在云南傣族地区竹叶兰是一种常用傣药,通常全株或者根茎入药,用于治疗食物中毒、毒蛇咬伤、疮疖肿毒等,具有调补气血、清火解毒等功效。近年来研究表明,竹叶兰中含有大量的茋类、黄酮类、酯类、苯丙素类等,除此之外还有甾醇、链烷烃、酚酸和三萜类物质。部分研究表明竹叶兰提取物具有抗氧化、抗脂质过氧化、抗肿瘤、抗肺纤维化、抗病毒及抗菌活性。Arundina graminifolia is a plant of the genus Arundina of the Orchidaceae family. It is also known as grass ginger, mountain water chestnut, and Baiyangjie. It is a terrestrial herb. According to the Flora of China, the plant height of Arundina graminifolia is 40 to 80 cm. The flowering and fruiting period is mainly from September to November, but there are also periods from January to April. Arundina graminifolia is widely distributed in tropical and subtropical areas, such as Guangdong, Yunnan, Guangxi, Hainan, Tibet, etc. In the Dai area of Yunnan, Arundina graminifolia is a commonly used Dai medicine. Usually the whole plant or rhizome is used as medicine to treat food poisoning, snake bites, sores, boils, and swellings. It has the effects of regulating qi and blood, clearing heat and detoxifying. Studies in recent years have shown that Arundina graminifolia contains a large amount of stilbenes, flavonoids, esters, phenylpropanoids, etc. In addition, there are sterols, alkanes, phenolic acids and triterpenes. Some studies have shown that Arundina graminifolia extracts have antioxidant, anti-lipid peroxidation, anti-tumor, anti-pulmonary fibrosis, anti-viral and antibacterial activities.

目前关于兰科植物提取物用于护肤品或化妆品的专利(例如美国专利US20110002968A1、中国发明专利CN107961195A以及CN107028846A)多见于使用蝴蝶兰、万代兰等气生兰类型,而关于竹叶兰等具有药用价值的地生兰科植物的护肤利用需要进一步的开发与利用。At present, patents on the use of orchid plant extracts in skin care products or cosmetics (such as U.S. Patent US20110002968A1, Chinese invention patents CN107961195A and CN107028846A) are mostly used in the use of aerial orchids such as Phalaenopsis and Vanda, while the skin care use of terrestrial orchids with medicinal value such as Bambusa in bamboo leaves needs further development and utilization.

发明内容Summary of the invention

为了克服现有技术的缺点与不足,本发明的目的在于提供一种竹叶兰提取物的制备方法。In order to overcome the shortcomings and deficiencies of the prior art, the object of the present invention is to provide a method for preparing a Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract.

本发明的另一目的在于提供通过是上述制备方法制备得到的竹叶兰提取物。该提取物具有抗氧化能力、酪氨酸酶抑制能力、保湿能力,达到提升护肤效果的目的。Another object of the present invention is to provide a Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract prepared by the above preparation method. The extract has antioxidant ability, tyrosinase inhibition ability, and moisturizing ability, thereby achieving the purpose of improving skin care effects.

本发明的再一目的在于提供上述竹叶兰提取物的应用。本发明获得的竹叶兰提取物适用于添加进各类化妆品中。Another object of the present invention is to provide an application of the above-mentioned Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract. The Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract obtained by the present invention is suitable for adding into various cosmetics.

本发明在进行竹叶兰提取物分析时发现其包含较多具有美白及抗氧化作用的重要代谢物,但现有技术中并未检测到竹叶兰提取物应用于化妆品的记载,对竹叶兰提取物在化妆品中的应用有助于增益竹叶兰提取物的应用范围及经济价值。When analyzing the bamboo orchid extract, the present invention found that it contained a large number of important metabolites with whitening and antioxidant effects, but there was no record of the use of bamboo orchid extract in cosmetics in the prior art. The use of bamboo orchid extract in cosmetics will help to increase the application scope and economic value of bamboo orchid extract.

本发明的目的通过下述技术方案实现:The purpose of the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:

一种竹叶兰提取物的制备方法,包括如下步骤:A method for preparing a bamboo leaf orchid extract comprises the following steps:

(1)预处理:将竹叶兰洗净,剪碎,烘干;将烘干后的竹叶兰粉碎,过筛得竹叶兰粉末;(1) Pretreatment: Wash the bamboo orchid, cut it into pieces, and dry it; crush the dried bamboo orchid, and sieve it to obtain bamboo orchid powder;

(2)处理:以1g竹叶兰粉末10~50mL乙醇水溶液溶剂为提取比例,浸泡;其中乙醇水溶液溶剂的体积分数为0~80%;浸泡结束后进行超声辅助提取,超声数次,每次持续一定时间;(2) Treatment: soaking the powder of Bamboo Leaf Orchid with 10-50 mL of ethanol aqueous solution as the extraction ratio; wherein the volume fraction of the ethanol aqueous solution solvent is 0-80%; after the soaking, ultrasonic assisted extraction is performed, and the ultrasonic wave is repeated several times, each time for a certain period of time;

(3)分离:步骤(2)所得提取液经过离心或过滤将料液分离,合并提取液;(3) separation: the extract obtained in step (2) is centrifuged or filtered to separate the feed and liquid, and the extracts are combined;

(4)浓缩及冷冻干燥:将步骤(3)所得的提取液经过旋转蒸发浓缩得提取液浓缩液;将浓缩液冷冻干燥,得到竹叶兰提取物。(4) Concentration and freeze-drying: The extract obtained in step (3) is concentrated by rotary evaporation to obtain an extract concentrate; the concentrate is freeze-dried to obtain a bamboo leaf orchid extract.

优选的,步骤(1)中,所述竹叶兰为竹叶兰全株。Preferably, in step (1), the Bamboo Cymbidium is the whole plant of Bamboo Cymbidium.

优选的,步骤(1)中,所述剪碎为剪碎至2~3cm;Preferably, in step (1), the cutting is cutting into pieces of 2 to 3 cm;

优选的,步骤(1)中,所述过筛为过60~100目筛;进一步为过60目筛;Preferably, in step (1), the sieving is through a 60-100 mesh sieve; further, through a 60 mesh sieve;

优选的,步骤(2)中,以1g竹叶兰粉末30~50mL乙醇水溶液溶剂为提取比例;进一步的,以1g竹叶兰粉末30~40mL乙醇水溶液溶剂为提取比例;再进一步的,以1g竹叶兰粉末40mL乙醇水溶液溶剂为提取比例。Preferably, in step (2), the extraction ratio is 1g of Bamboo Cymbidium powder: 30-50mL of ethanol-water solution solvent; further, the extraction ratio is 1g of Bamboo Cymbidium powder: 30-40mL of ethanol-water solution solvent; further, the extraction ratio is 1g of Bamboo Cymbidium powder: 40mL of ethanol-water solution solvent.

优选的,步骤(2)中,乙醇水溶液溶剂的体积分数为20~80%;进一步为40~80%;更进一步为60~80%;再进一步为80%;Preferably, in step (2), the volume fraction of the ethanol aqueous solution solvent is 20 to 80%; further 40 to 80%; further 60 to 80%; further 80%;

优选的,步骤(2)中,所述浸泡的时间为2~6h;进一步为2h。Preferably, in step (2), the soaking time is 2 to 6 hours; further, 2 hours.

优选的,步骤(2)中,所述的超声辅助提取的功率为160~400W;进一步为400W;Preferably, in step (2), the power of the ultrasonic-assisted extraction is 160 to 400 W; further 400 W;

优选的,步骤(2)中,超声数次为超声3次;Preferably, in step (2), the ultrasonication is performed 3 times;

优选的,步骤(2)中,每次持续一定时间为每次持续10~50min;进一步为30~50min;更进一步为40min。Preferably, in step (2), each time the certain period of time is 10 to 50 minutes; further 30 to 50 minutes; further 40 minutes.

优选的,步骤(4)中,所述冷冻干燥的时间为24~72h;进一步为48h。Preferably, in step (4), the freeze-drying time is 24 to 72 hours; further 48 hours.

一种竹叶兰提取物,通过上述制备方法制备得到。A bamboo orchid extract is prepared by the above preparation method.

本发明获得的竹叶兰提取物中含有熊果苷、北升麻宁、异甘草素等参与酪氨酸酶抑制物质,以及山奈酚-3-O-a-L-鼠李糖苷、木犀草素、山奈酚、绿原酸等参与抗氧化的物质。The bamboo orchid extract obtained by the invention contains arbutin, arbutin, isoliquiritigenin and other substances involved in tyrosinase inhibition, as well as kaempferol-3-O-a-L-rhamnoside, luteolin, kaempferol, chlorogenic acid and other substances involved in anti-oxidation.

所述竹叶兰提取物可对酪氨酸酶产生抑制作用,能有效达成美白、祛斑、预防黑色素沉淀等功效,同时具有保湿以及抗氧化的能力;The bamboo orchid extract can inhibit tyrosinase, effectively achieve the effects of whitening, removing spots, preventing melanin deposition, etc., and also has moisturizing and anti-oxidation capabilities;

一种竹叶兰提取物在制备化妆品中的应用。The invention discloses an application of a bamboo orchid extract in preparing cosmetics.

所述化妆品中含有上述竹叶兰提取物,在化妆品中的添加量为10~100mg/L。The cosmetic contains the above-mentioned bamboo orchid extract, and the added amount in the cosmetic is 10-100 mg/L.

所述化妆品为:水剂、乳液类、膏霜类、喷雾类、精华类、精油类、皂类、洗护类、彩妆类等。The cosmetics include: water-based lotions, emulsions, creams, sprays, essences, essential oils, soaps, cleansing products, makeup, etc.

进一步的,所述化妆品为爽肤水、唇膏或香皂。Furthermore, the cosmetic is toner, lipstick or soap.

一种竹叶兰化妆品,该竹叶兰化妆品含有上述竹叶兰提取物。A bamboo orchid cosmetic contains the bamboo orchid extract.

优选的,所述竹叶兰化妆品含有上述10~100mg/L的竹叶兰提取物。Preferably, the bamboo orchid cosmetic contains 10 to 100 mg/L of the bamboo orchid extract.

所述竹叶兰化妆品为:水剂、乳液类、膏霜类、喷雾类、精华类、精油类、皂类、洗护类、彩妆类等。The bamboo orchid cosmetics include: water-based lotions, emulsions, creams, sprays, essences, essential oils, soaps, cleansing and care products, and makeup products.

将竹叶兰提取物于化妆品原料混合得一竹叶兰化妆品。化妆品原料为一粉末状原料、一膏状原料、一液态原料,所添加的竹叶兰提取物为提取物粉末、提取物水溶液、提取物乙醇溶液。The bamboo orchid extract is mixed with cosmetic raw materials to obtain a bamboo orchid cosmetic. The cosmetic raw materials are a powder raw material, a paste raw material, and a liquid raw material. The bamboo orchid extract added is an extract powder, an extract aqueous solution, and an extract ethanol solution.

具体的,所述竹叶兰化妆品为竹叶兰爽肤水,含有上述10~100mg/L的竹叶兰提取物。Specifically, the bamboo orchid cosmetic is a bamboo orchid toner, which contains the above-mentioned 10-100 mg/L bamboo orchid extract.

具体的,所述竹叶兰化妆品为竹叶兰唇膏,含有上述10~100mg/L的竹叶兰提取物。Specifically, the bamboo orchid cosmetic is a bamboo orchid lipstick, which contains 10 to 100 mg/L of the bamboo orchid extract.

具体的,所述竹叶兰化妆品为竹叶兰香皂,含有上述10~100mg/L的竹叶兰提取物。Specifically, the bamboo orchid cosmetic is bamboo orchid soap, which contains the above-mentioned 10-100 mg/L bamboo orchid extract.

本发明相对于现有技术具有如下的优点及效果:Compared with the prior art, the present invention has the following advantages and effects:

本发明制备的竹叶兰提取物对酪氨酸酶具有抑制作用,同时具有抗氧化能力和保湿能力,可作为美白、保湿、抗氧化功效化妆品原料。在该竹叶兰提取物中检测到熊果苷、北升麻宁、异甘草素等参与酪氨酸酶抑制物质,以及山奈酚-3-O-a-L-鼠李糖苷、木犀草素、山奈酚、绿原酸等参与抗氧化的物质。The bamboo orchid extract prepared by the present invention has an inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, and has antioxidant and moisturizing abilities, and can be used as a raw material for cosmetics with whitening, moisturizing and antioxidant effects. Arbutin, arbutin, isoliquiritigenin and other substances involved in tyrosinase inhibition, as well as kaempferol-3-O-a-L-rhamnoside, luteolin, kaempferol, chlorogenic acid and other substances involved in antioxidant effects are detected in the bamboo orchid extract.

附图说明BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

图1是竹叶兰提取物的提取方法流程图。FIG. 1 is a flow chart of the extraction method of the Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract.

图2是竹叶兰提取物作为添加物制备竹叶兰化妆品的步骤图。FIG. 2 is a diagram showing the steps of preparing bamboo orchid cosmetics using bamboo orchid extract as an additive.

图3是实施例一步骤2中乙醇水溶液中不同乙醇浓度处理对竹叶兰提取物的功效能力的影响,不同小写字母代表不同处理间差异显著。FIG3 shows the effects of different ethanol concentrations in the ethanol aqueous solution on the efficacy of the Bamboo Herb extract in step 2 of Example 1. Different lowercase letters represent significant differences between different treatments.

图4是实施例一步骤2中不同料液比处理对竹叶兰提取物的功效能力的影响,不同小写字母代表不同处理间差异显著。FIG. 4 shows the effects of different solid-liquid ratios on the efficacy of the Bamboo Herb extract in step 2 of Example 1. Different lowercase letters represent significant differences between different treatments.

图5是实施例一步骤2中不同超声提取时间处理对竹叶兰提取物的功效能力的影响,不同小写字母代表不同处理间差异显著。FIG. 5 shows the effects of different ultrasonic extraction time treatments on the efficacy of the Bamboo Herb extract in step 2 of Example 1. Different lowercase letters represent significant differences between different treatments.

图6是实施例二中的竹叶兰提取物与对照提取物(水煎1h或水煎2h)之间功效能力的差异分析图;其中,不同大写字母表示不同提取方法所得提取物同一指标之间的差异显著,不同小写字母代表同一提取物不同指标之间的差异显著。Figure 6 is a graph showing the difference in efficacy between the Bamboo Herb extract and the control extract (decoction in water for 1 hour or 2 hours) in Example 2; wherein different capital letters indicate significant differences in the same index between extracts obtained by different extraction methods, and different lowercase letters indicate significant differences in different indexes of the same extract.

图7是添加实施例二中的竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水、唇膏及香皂的外观图;其中,A:竹叶兰爽肤水,B:基质爽肤水,C:竹叶兰香皂,D:基质香皂,E:竹叶兰唇膏,F:基质唇膏。Figure 7 is an appearance picture of the toner, lipstick and soap to which the bamboo orchid extract in Example 2 is added; wherein A: bamboo orchid toner, B: base toner, C: bamboo orchid soap, D: base soap, E: bamboo orchid lipstick, and F: base lipstick.

图8是添加实施例二中的竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水功效能力分析图;其中,不同大写字母表示不同爽肤水组同一功效指标之间差异显著,不同小写字母表示同一爽肤水组不同功效指标之间差异显著。Figure 8 is an analysis chart of the efficacy of toners with the addition of the Bambusa orchid extract in Example 2; wherein different capital letters indicate significant differences in the same efficacy index between different toner groups, and different lowercase letters indicate significant differences in different efficacy indexes in the same toner group.

图9是添加实施例二中的竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水及唇膏使用后对受试者皮肤的保湿能力分析图。FIG. 9 is an analysis chart of the moisturizing ability of the toner and lipstick to which the Bamboo Herb extract of Example 2 is added on the skin of the test subjects after use.

图10是添加实施例二中的竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水使用后受试者皮肤色素度相对变化率分析。FIG. 10 is an analysis of the relative change rate of skin pigmentation of subjects after using the toner containing the Bamboo Herb extract of Example 2.

具体实施方式DETAILED DESCRIPTION

下面结合实施例及附图对本发明作进一步详细的描述,但本发明的实施方式不限于此。The present invention is further described in detail below in conjunction with embodiments and drawings, but the embodiments of the present invention are not limited thereto.

本发明较佳实施例的竹叶兰提取物提取方法及适用于竹叶兰全株及各个部分(如根、叶、花等)的提取,添加竹叶兰提取物护肤品方法适用于爽肤水、面霜、唇膏、皂等。The method for extracting bamboo orchid extract of the preferred embodiment of the present invention is applicable to the extraction of the whole bamboo orchid plant and its various parts (such as roots, leaves, flowers, etc.), and the method for adding bamboo orchid extract to skin care products is applicable to toner, face cream, lipstick, soap, etc.

一般而言,竹叶兰中含有大量的黄酮、多酚类物质,具有较好的抗氧化能力,减少自由基的生成能够延缓衰老。同时竹叶兰的根茎中含有大量菲类物质,其中二氢菲具有较强的抗肿瘤能力。植物中的多糖、蛋白肽类物质对于皮肤的保湿效果尤为显著,部分酚酸、黄酮类物质可通过抑制酪氨酸酶减少黑色素的产生从而达到美白的效果。因此竹叶兰提取物具有较高的潜在药用及经济价值。此外,竹叶兰提取物没有特殊气味,适用于作为添加物。Generally speaking, bamboo orchid contains a large amount of flavonoids and polyphenols, which have good antioxidant capacity. Reducing the generation of free radicals can delay aging. At the same time, the rhizome of bamboo orchid contains a large amount of phenanthrene substances, among which dihydrophenanthrene has a strong anti-tumor ability. The polysaccharides and protein peptides in plants have a particularly significant moisturizing effect on the skin. Some phenolic acids and flavonoids can reduce the production of melanin by inhibiting tyrosinase, thereby achieving a whitening effect. Therefore, bamboo orchid extract has a high potential medicinal and economic value. In addition, bamboo orchid extract has no special smell and is suitable as an additive.

图1为竹叶兰提取物的提取方法流程图。FIG. 1 is a flow chart of the extraction method of the Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract.

1.预处理:将竹叶兰全株洗净、晾干,剪碎至2~3cm,平铺烘干。将烘干后的竹叶兰粉碎,过60目筛得竹叶兰粉末。1. Pretreatment: Wash and dry the whole plant of Bamboo Leaf Orchid, cut it into pieces of 2-3 cm, spread it flat and dry it. Crush the dried Bamboo Leaf Orchid and sieve it through 60 mesh to obtain Bamboo Leaf Orchid powder.

2.提取:承接上一步,取竹叶兰粉末加入乙醇水溶液溶剂,浸泡2h。其中乙醇水溶液溶剂的体积分数为0~80%,每克竹叶兰加入溶剂10~50mL。2. Extraction: Following the previous step, take the bamboo orchid powder and add ethanol aqueous solution solvent, soak for 2 hours. The volume fraction of ethanol aqueous solution solvent is 0-80%, and 10-50 mL of solvent is added for each gram of bamboo orchid.

浸泡结束后将其置于超声波仪器中进行超声辅助提取。超声3次,每次10~50min。所述的超声提取功率为160~400W。After soaking, the extract is placed in an ultrasonic instrument for ultrasonic-assisted extraction. The ultrasonic process is repeated 3 times, each time for 10 to 50 minutes. The ultrasonic extraction power is 160 to 400W.

3.分离:图1中分离步骤指,将上步所得提取液经过离心机或滤纸将料液分离,合并提取液。3. Separation: The separation step in Figure 1 refers to separating the extract obtained in the previous step by passing it through a centrifuge or filter paper to separate the feed liquid and combine the extracts.

4.浓缩:如图1所示,将上步所得的提取液经过旋转蒸发仪去除溶剂,浓缩得提取液浓缩液。4. Concentration: As shown in FIG1 , the extract obtained in the previous step is subjected to a rotary evaporator to remove the solvent and concentrate to obtain an extract concentrate.

5.冷冻干燥:将浓缩液冷冻干燥是指将提取液浓缩液冷冻成冰块,放置于冷冻干燥机24~72h,得到竹叶兰提取物。5. Freeze drying: Freeze drying the concentrate means freezing the extract concentrate into ice cubes and placing it in a freeze dryer for 24 to 72 hours to obtain the Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract.

根据上述步骤制得的较佳竹叶兰提取物可作为添加物制备竹叶兰化妆品,如图2所示,化妆品原料可为粉末状、膏状、液态,所添加的竹叶兰提取物为提取物粉末和/或提取物极性溶液(如乙醇)和/或提取物水溶液。The preferred bamboo orchid extract obtained according to the above steps can be used as an additive to prepare bamboo orchid cosmetics. As shown in Figure 2, the cosmetic raw materials can be in powder, paste, or liquid form, and the added bamboo orchid extract is extract powder and/or extract polar solution (such as ethanol) and/or extract aqueous solution.

实施例一Embodiment 1

1、随机设定竹叶兰提取物提取方法:将3g竹叶兰粉末加入到60mL 60%乙醇水溶液溶剂(水:乙醇=4:6)中(即料液比(g:mL)=1:20),静置浸泡2h。放入超声仪器中,以400W功率超声提取30min,离心取上清液。重复超声提取三次,合并提取液。旋转蒸发浓缩得到提取液浓缩液,将浓缩液冷冻干燥48h,得竹叶兰提取物。1. Randomly set the extraction method of bamboo leaf orchid extract: add 3g bamboo leaf orchid powder to 60mL 60% ethanol aqueous solution solvent (water: ethanol = 4: 6) (i.e., material-liquid ratio (g: mL) = 1: 20), and let it stand and soak for 2h. Put it into an ultrasonic instrument, extract it with 400W power for 30min, and centrifuge to get the supernatant. Repeat the ultrasonic extraction three times and combine the extracts. Concentrate the extract by rotary evaporation to obtain the extract concentrate, and freeze-dry the concentrate for 48h to obtain the bamboo leaf orchid extract.

2、以步骤1作为提取方法,揭示单因素处理:乙醇水溶液中不同乙醇浓度(0%、20%、40%、60%、80%)处理、不同料液比(1:10、1:20、1:30、1:40、1:50)处理、不同超声提取时间(10min、20min、30min、40min、50min)处理,对竹叶兰提取物的功效能力(酪氨酸酶抑制率、DPPH自由基清除率、ABTS+自由基清除率)的影响。2. Using step 1 as the extraction method, reveal the effects of single factor treatments: different ethanol concentrations in ethanol aqueous solution (0%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80%), different solid-liquid ratios (1:10, 1:20, 1:30, 1:40, 1:50), and different ultrasonic extraction times (10min, 20min, 30min, 40min, 50min) on the efficacy of bamboo orchid extract (tyrosinase inhibition rate, DPPH free radical scavenging rate, ABTS + free radical scavenging rate).

3、酪氨酸酶抑制率:配置浓度为1mg/mL待测样品液,在96孔板中依次加入磷酸缓冲液(pH6.8,用千分之一天秤分别称取8.95g NaH2PO4·2H2O和3.90g Na2HPO4·12H2O,将其加入500mL去离子水中,用玻璃棒搅拌均匀,得到PBS缓冲液)、待测样品液、酪氨酸酶液(150U/mL),混匀放置于37℃下活化反应10min后,加入L-酪氨酸溶液(0.3mg/mL),避光反应20min。使用酶标仪测定475nm波长下的各孔的吸光值,样品进行三次重复,具体添加量如表1所示。其中,熊果苷溶液的浓度为4mg/mL。3. Tyrosinase inhibition rate: Prepare a sample solution with a concentration of 1 mg/mL, add phosphate buffer (pH 6.8, weigh 8.95 g NaH 2 PO 4 ·2H 2 O and 3.90 g Na 2 HPO 4 ·12H 2 O with a 1/1000 scale, add them to 500 mL of deionized water, stir evenly with a glass rod to obtain PBS buffer), sample solution to be tested, tyrosinase solution (150 U/mL), mix well and place at 37°C for activation reaction for 10 min, then add L-tyrosine solution (0.3 mg/mL) and react for 20 min in the dark. Use an enzyme marker to measure the absorbance of each well at a wavelength of 475 nm. The sample is repeated three times, and the specific addition amount is shown in Table 1. Among them, the concentration of arbutin solution is 4 mg/mL.

表1 250μL实验体系Table 1 250μL experimental system

注:测吸光值时,“样品组”、“熊果苷组”、“空白组”分别以“样品对照组”、“熊果苷对照组”、“空白对照组”调零。Note: When measuring absorbance, the “sample group”, “arbutin group” and “blank group” were adjusted to zero using the “sample control group”, “arbutin control group” and “blank control group” respectively.

抑制率(%)=(A-B)/A×100%Inhibition rate (%) = (A-B)/A×100%

其中,A为空白组吸光值,B为待测样品组吸光值。Among them, A is the absorbance value of the blank group, and B is the absorbance value of the sample group to be tested.

4、DPPH自由基清除率:准备数个2mL离心管,加入0.5mg/mL待测样品溶液1mL,DPPH溶液(0.2mmol/L)1mL混合均匀,于37℃避光反应30min。用无水乙醇1mL与待测样品液1mL混合用于样品调零,用60%乙醇与DPPH溶液混合作为空白组。每个样品进行三次重复,于519nm波长处测定吸光度值。4. DPPH free radical scavenging rate: prepare several 2mL centrifuge tubes, add 1mL of 0.5mg/mL sample solution and 1mL of DPPH solution (0.2mmol/L) and mix well, and react at 37℃ in the dark for 30min. Mix 1mL of anhydrous ethanol with 1mL of sample solution for sample zero adjustment, and mix 60% ethanol with DPPH solution as blank group. Repeat three times for each sample, and measure the absorbance value at a wavelength of 519nm.

样品对DPPH自由基的清除率(%)=[1-A/A0]×100%The scavenging rate of the sample on DPPH free radicals (%) = [1-A/A0] × 100%

式中,A为待测样品组吸光度值;A0为空白组吸光度值。Where A is the absorbance value of the sample group to be tested; A0 is the absorbance value of the blank group.

5、ABTS+自由基清除率:取浓度为0.125mg/mL的待测样品液,将待测样品液与ABTS+溶液(2.6mmol/L)以体积比1:2的比例依次加入试管中,混合均匀避光放置6min后,于734nm波长处测定吸光度。以无水乙醇代替待测样品液为空白对照,每个浓度进行三次重复。ABTS+自由基清除率使用以下公式计算:5. ABTS + free radical scavenging rate: Take the sample solution with a concentration of 0.125 mg/mL, add the sample solution and ABTS + solution (2.6 mmol/L) into the test tube in a volume ratio of 1:2, mix well, place in the dark for 6 minutes, and measure the absorbance at a wavelength of 734 nm. Use anhydrous ethanol instead of the sample solution as a blank control, and repeat three times for each concentration. The ABTS + free radical scavenging rate is calculated using the following formula:

ABTS+自由基清除率(%)=(1-A1/A)×100%ABTS + free radical scavenging rate (%) = (1-A1/A) × 100%

A:空白对照的吸光度;A1:待测样品组的吸光度。A: absorbance of blank control; A1: absorbance of the sample group to be tested.

6、实验结果如图3~5所示。6. The experimental results are shown in Figures 3 to 5.

从图3可知,当乙醇浓度为0~80%之间时,随着乙醇浓度的增加,提取物酪氨酸酶抑制率逐渐升高,80%乙醇浓度下酪氨酸酶抑制率最高,达到了56.6%。随着提取液乙醇浓度的增高,提取物样品的DPPH自由基清除率逐渐增高,在乙醇浓度达到80%时清除率达到82.9%。同时随着乙醇浓度的增高,样品的ABTS+自由基清除率也逐渐增高,在80%时清除率最高达到了78.64%。综上所述,随着乙醇浓度的增加竹叶兰提取物的三个指标均呈现上升趋势,80%为乙醇浓度的最优选择。As shown in Figure 3, when the ethanol concentration is between 0 and 80%, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the extract gradually increases with the increase of ethanol concentration, and the tyrosinase inhibition rate is the highest at 80% ethanol concentration, reaching 56.6%. As the ethanol concentration of the extract increases, the DPPH free radical scavenging rate of the extract sample gradually increases, and the scavenging rate reaches 82.9% when the ethanol concentration reaches 80%. At the same time, as the ethanol concentration increases, the ABTS + free radical scavenging rate of the sample also gradually increases, and the scavenging rate reaches 78.64% at 80%. In summary, the three indicators of the bamboo leaf orchid extract show an upward trend with the increase of ethanol concentration, and 80% is the optimal choice for ethanol concentration.

从图4可知,在料液比单因素实验中发现,酪氨酸酶抑制率在1:40g/mL时达到峰值,并且到1:50g/mL开始下降。酪氨酸酶抑制率在料液比为1:40g/mL时达到68.3%。不同料液比下的DPPH自由基清除率在1:30g/mL前逐渐下降,超过1:30之后呈上升趋势,但各组之间差异不大;ABTS+自由基清除率分布在1:50时最高达到81.35%。料液比对于自由基清除率的影响差异并不大,而对于酪氨酸酶抑制率的影响较大。料液比较低时提取物无法完全析出,料液比过高会造成提取液浪费,故选用1:40g/mL作为最适料液比。As shown in Figure 4, in the single-factor experiment of the material-liquid ratio, it was found that the tyrosinase inhibition rate reached a peak at 1:40g/mL and began to decline at 1:50g/mL. The tyrosinase inhibition rate reached 68.3% at a material-liquid ratio of 1:40g/mL. The DPPH free radical scavenging rate under different material-liquid ratios gradually decreased before 1:30g/mL, and showed an upward trend after exceeding 1:30, but there was little difference between the groups; the ABTS + free radical scavenging rate reached a maximum of 81.35% at 1:50. The effect of the material-liquid ratio on the free radical scavenging rate is not much different, but the effect on the tyrosinase inhibition rate is greater. When the material-liquid ratio is low, the extract cannot be completely precipitated, and too high a material-liquid ratio will cause waste of the extract, so 1:40g/mL is selected as the optimal material-liquid ratio.

从图5可知,在超声时间单因素试验中,40min之前,随着超声时间的增加,提取物的酪氨酸酶抑制率逐渐增加,在40min时达到峰值,而后开始下降。DPPH自由基清除率和ABTS+自由基清除率的变化差异不大,因此选用40min作为最适超声时间。As shown in Figure 5, in the single-factor test of ultrasound time, before 40 minutes, as the ultrasound time increased, the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the extract gradually increased, reaching a peak at 40 minutes, and then began to decline. The changes in the DPPH free radical scavenging rate and the ABTS + free radical scavenging rate were not much different, so 40 minutes was selected as the optimal ultrasound time.

7、通过单因素实验确定竹叶兰提取物最佳工艺组合为:乙醇浓度80%、料液比1:40g/mL、超声时间40min、超声功率400W。7. Through single factor experiments, the optimal process combination for bamboo orchid extract was determined to be: ethanol concentration 80%, solid-liquid ratio 1:40g/mL, ultrasonic time 40min, and ultrasonic power 400W.

实施例二Embodiment 2

通过UPLC-MS/MS方法对竹叶兰提取物成分进行鉴定与相对定量分析。The components of Bamboo Spathiphyllum extract were identified and relatively quantitatively analyzed by UPLC-MS/MS method.

1、将3g竹叶兰粉末加入到120mL超纯水中,加热至沸腾开始计时,保持沸腾状态进行煎煮1h。旋转蒸发浓缩得到提取液浓缩液,将浓缩液冷冻干燥48h,得竹叶兰提取物。记为水煎1h组(简写:ZY1)。1. Add 3g of Bamboo Leaf Orchid powder to 120mL of ultrapure water, heat to boiling and start timing, keep boiling for 1h. Concentrate by rotary evaporation to obtain extract concentrate, freeze-dry the concentrate for 48h to obtain Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract. Recorded as 1h decoction group (abbreviation: ZY1).

2、将3g竹叶兰粉末加入到120mL超纯水中,加热至沸腾开始计时,保持沸腾状态进行煎煮2h。旋转蒸发浓缩得到提取液浓缩液,将浓缩液冷冻干燥48h,得竹叶兰提取物。记为水煎2h组(简写:ZY2)。2. Add 3g of Bamboo Leaf Orchid powder to 120mL of ultrapure water, heat to boiling and start timing, keep boiling for 2h. Concentrate by rotary evaporation to obtain extract concentrate, freeze-dry the concentrate for 48h to obtain Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract. Recorded as 2h decoction group (abbreviation: ZY2).

3、采用实施例一中竹叶兰提取物最佳工艺,将3g竹叶兰粉末加入到120mL 80%乙醇水溶液溶剂(水:乙醇=2:8)中(即料液比(g:mL)=1:40),静置浸泡2h。放入超声仪器中,以400W功率超声提取40min,离心取上清液。重复超声提取三次,合并提取液。旋转蒸发浓缩得到提取液浓缩液,将浓缩液冷冻干燥48h,得竹叶兰提取物。记为超声醇提法组(简写:ZY3)。3. Using the best process for the extract of Bamboo Leaf Orchid in Example 1, add 3g Bamboo Leaf Orchid powder to 120mL 80% ethanol aqueous solution solvent (water: ethanol = 2: 8) (i.e., solid-liquid ratio (g: mL) = 1: 40), and let it stand and soak for 2h. Put it into an ultrasonic instrument, extract it with 400W power for 40min, and centrifuge to take the supernatant. Repeat the ultrasonic extraction three times and combine the extracts. Concentrate the extract by rotary evaporation to obtain the extract concentrate, freeze-dry the concentrate for 48h to obtain the Bamboo Leaf Orchid extract. Recorded as ultrasonic alcohol extraction group (abbreviation: ZY3).

4、对竹叶兰不同提取方法得到的提取物进行DPPH自由基清除率、ABTS+自由基清除率、酪氨酸酶抑制率测定,结果如图6所示,可以看出水煎法随着提取时间的增加DPPH自由基清除率和ABTS+自由基清除率均有显著提高,但是酪氨酸酶抑制率分别为64.3%和65.7%,二者没有显著差异。而超声辅助醇提法的自由基清除率和酪氨酸酶抑制率相较于水煎法均有较大的提升,DPPH自由基清除率为89.8%,ABTS+自由基清除率84.9%,酪氨酸酶抑制率83.4%。结果表明,在水煎法提取过程中,竹叶兰的抗氧化活性随着时间增加而增强,而美白能力基本没有改变。竹叶兰超声辅助醇提法得到的提取物相较于水煎法得到的提取物具有更高的抗氧化活性和美白活性。以水提法1h和2h的竹叶兰提取物作为对照,采用UPLC-MS/MS方法对实施例一中竹叶兰提取物最佳工艺获得的竹叶兰提取物成分进行鉴定与相对定量分析。4. The extracts obtained by different extraction methods of Bamboo Leaf Orchid were tested for DPPH free radical scavenging rate, ABTS + free radical scavenging rate, and tyrosinase inhibition rate. The results are shown in Figure 6. It can be seen that the DPPH free radical scavenging rate and ABTS + free radical scavenging rate of the water decoction method increased significantly with the increase of extraction time, but the tyrosinase inhibition rates were 64.3% and 65.7%, respectively, and there was no significant difference between the two. The free radical scavenging rate and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the ultrasonic-assisted alcohol extraction method were greatly improved compared with the water decoction method, with a DPPH free radical scavenging rate of 89.8%, an ABTS + free radical scavenging rate of 84.9%, and a tyrosinase inhibition rate of 83.4%. The results showed that during the water decoction extraction process, the antioxidant activity of Bamboo Leaf Orchid increased with time, while the whitening ability remained basically unchanged. The extract obtained by ultrasonic-assisted alcohol extraction of Bamboo Leaf Orchid has higher antioxidant activity and whitening activity than the extract obtained by water decoction. The extracts of the bamboo leaf orchid extracted by water extraction for 1 hour and 2 hours were used as controls, and the UPLC-MS/MS method was used to identify and relatively quantitatively analyze the components of the bamboo leaf orchid extract obtained by the optimal process of the bamboo leaf orchid extract in Example 1.

5、UPLC-MS/MS方法5. UPLC-MS/MS method

(1)样品处理:将真空冷冻干燥样品粉末利用研磨仪在30Hz下粉碎1.5分钟至粉末状;称取100mg的粉末,溶解于1.0mL 70%甲醇提取液中;将样品每30分钟涡旋一次,每次持续30秒,共涡旋6次,样本置于4℃冰箱过夜;将样品以12000rpm转速离心10分钟后,吸取上清,用微孔滤膜(0.22μm pore size)过滤样品,并保存于进样瓶中,用于UPLC-MS/MS分析。(1) Sample processing: The vacuum freeze-dried sample powder was crushed into powder using a grinder at 30 Hz for 1.5 min; 100 mg of the powder was weighed and dissolved in 1.0 mL of 70% methanol extract; the sample was vortexed once every 30 min for 30 s each time, for a total of 6 times, and the sample was placed in a 4°C refrigerator overnight; the sample was centrifuged at 12,000 rpm for 10 min, the supernatant was aspirated, the sample was filtered with a microporous filter membrane (0.22 μm pore size), and stored in an injection bottle for UPLC-MS/MS analysis.

(2)色谱质谱采集条件(2) Chromatographic mass spectrometry acquisition conditions

数据采集仪器系统主要包括超高效液相色谱Ultra Performance LiquidChromatography,UPLC)(Shim-pack UFLC SHIMADZU CBM30A,https://www.shimadzu.com/)和串联质谱(Tandem mass spectrometry,MS/MS)(4500+,https://sciex.com/)。The data acquisition instrument system mainly includes ultra-high performance liquid chromatography (UPLC) (Shim-pack UFLC SHIMADZU CBM30A, https://www.shimadzu.com/) and tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS) ( 4500+, https://sciex.com/).

液相条件主要包括:色谱柱:Waters ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3 C18 1.8μm,2.1mm*100mm;流动相:A相为超纯水(0.1%的甲酸),B相为乙腈(0.1%的甲酸);洗脱梯度:0min水/乙腈(95:5V/V),10.0min为5:95V/V,11.0min为5:95V/V,11.1min为95:5V/V,15.0min为95:5V/V;流速0.4ml/min;柱温40℃;进样量2μl。The liquid phase conditions mainly include: chromatographic column: Waters ACQUITY UPLC HSS T3 C18 1.8μm, 2.1mm*100mm; mobile phase: phase A is ultrapure water (0.1% formic acid), phase B is acetonitrile (0.1% formic acid); elution gradient: 0min water/acetonitrile (95:5V/V), 10.0min is 5:95V/V, 11.0min is 5:95V/V, 11.1min is 95:5V/V, 15.0min is 95:5V/V; flow rate is 0.4ml/min; column temperature is 40℃; injection volume is 2μl.

质谱条件主要包括:电喷雾离子源(electrospray ionization,ESI)温度550℃,质谱电压5500V(positive),-4500V(negative),离子源气体I(GS I)55psi,气体II(GS II)60psi,气帘气(curtain gas,CUR)25psi,碰撞诱导电离(collision-activateddissociation,CAD)参数设置为高。在三重四极杆(Qtrap)中,每个离子对是根据优化的去簇电压(declustering potential,DP)和碰撞能(collision energy,CE)进行扫描检测。The mass spectrometry conditions mainly include: electrospray ionization (ESI) temperature 550°C, mass spectrometry voltage 5500V (positive), -4500V (negative), ion source gas I (GS I) 55psi, gas II (GS II) 60psi, curtain gas (CUR) 25psi, collision-activated dissociation (CAD) parameters set to high. In the triple quadrupole (Qtrap), each ion pair is scanned and detected according to the optimized declustering potential (DP) and collision energy (CE).

6、通过与本地代谢数据库与样本代谢物进行比对,本实验共鉴定出669个代谢物,正离子模式下共检测出400个代谢物,负离子模式下检测出269个代谢物。通过相关性分析得到了部分与功效指标高度相关的差异物质,如表2所示,这些物质在前人研究中已被证明具有抑菌、抑制酪氨酸酶以及抗氧化的功效。熊果苷、水杨酸、阿魏酸具有较高的护肤功效,近年来已经作为美白剂添加入护肤品中。异甘草素、柚皮素、紫铆素为醇提法提取物中出现的物质,并且与功效指标具有极高的正相关性。许多学者通过研究发现,甘草中的异甘草素和柚皮素等物质具有较好的酪氨酸酶抑制能力,能够抑制酪氨酸酶与底物结合从而达到减少黑色素形成的作用。黄芪苷、山奈酚、绿原酸、槲皮素是常见的植物提取物中具有抗氧化能力的黄酮类化合物,在竹叶兰的提取物中也检测出了这些物质,在醇提法提取物中这些物质的含量更高导致其具有更高的自由基清除能力。6. By comparing with the local metabolic database and sample metabolites, a total of 669 metabolites were identified in this experiment, 400 metabolites were detected in the positive ion mode, and 269 metabolites were detected in the negative ion mode. Through correlation analysis, some differential substances highly correlated with efficacy indicators were obtained, as shown in Table 2. These substances have been shown to have antibacterial, tyrosinase inhibition and antioxidant effects in previous studies. Arbutin, salicylic acid, and ferulic acid have high skin care effects and have been added to skin care products as whitening agents in recent years. Isoliquiritigenin, naringenin, and butein are substances that appear in alcohol extraction extracts and have a very high positive correlation with efficacy indicators. Many scholars have found through research that substances such as isoliquiritigenin and naringenin in licorice have good tyrosinase inhibition ability, which can inhibit the binding of tyrosinase to substrates and thus reduce the formation of melanin. Astragaloside, kaempferol, chlorogenic acid, and quercetin are common flavonoid compounds with antioxidant capacity in plant extracts. These substances have also been detected in the extracts of Bamboo Orchid. The content of these substances is higher in the alcohol extraction extract, resulting in higher free radical scavenging ability.

表2竹叶兰提取物中部分与功效指标高度相关的差异物质Table 2 Some differential substances in Bamboo Leaf Orchid extracts that are highly correlated with efficacy indicators

注:CAS为物质CAS号,ZY1表示水提法1h提取成分相对含量,ZY2表示水提法2h提取成分相对含量,ZY3表示最佳提取工艺提取的成分相对含量,cpd_ID为物质在KEGG数据库上的ID号。Note: CAS is the CAS number of the substance, ZY1 represents the relative content of the component extracted by water extraction for 1 hour, ZY2 represents the relative content of the component extracted by water extraction for 2 hours, ZY3 represents the relative content of the component extracted by the best extraction process, and cpd_ID represents the ID number of the substance in the KEGG database.

实施例三Embodiment 3

1、为进一步探寻竹叶兰提取物作为功效性护肤品原料的潜力,制备了添加竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水、唇膏、香皂,并对样品的质量进行评估,将其与未添加竹叶兰提取物的基质组相对照测定其抗氧化、美白、保湿和抗菌能力,判断加入竹叶兰提取物的护肤品是否具有较好的安全性和功效能力。以实施例一中最佳工艺获得的竹叶兰提取物用于后续实验。1. To further explore the potential of bamboo orchid extract as a raw material for functional skin care products, toner, lipstick, and soap with bamboo orchid extract were prepared, and the quality of the samples was evaluated. The antioxidant, whitening, moisturizing, and antibacterial abilities of the samples were measured by comparing them with the matrix group without bamboo orchid extract to determine whether the skin care products with bamboo orchid extract have good safety and efficacy. The bamboo orchid extract obtained by the optimal process in Example 1 was used for subsequent experiments.

其中,竹叶兰唇膏的制备:基质组配方选择以橄榄油、黄蜂蜡以3:1的比例称取放入清洗干净的烧杯中,将烧杯放入水浴锅中恒温70℃加热至黄蜂蜡融化,并搅拌均匀至无气泡。将所得油状物静置冷却至60℃左右,加入2%的维生素E以及竹叶兰提取物溶液(浓度为1mg/mL)1%v/v混匀;第一次灌装至模具的九分满处,一分钟后倒入剩余的油料,最后常温静置1小时左右成型,制得竹叶兰唇膏,如图7所示;其中,竹叶兰提取物在唇膏中的终浓度为1%w/w。Among them, the preparation of bamboo orchid lipstick: the matrix group formula is selected to weigh olive oil and yellow beeswax in a ratio of 3:1 and put them into a clean beaker, put the beaker into a water bath and heat it at a constant temperature of 70°C until the yellow beeswax melts, and stir it evenly until there are no bubbles. The resulting oil is allowed to stand and cool to about 60°C, and 2% vitamin E and bamboo orchid extract solution (concentration of 1 mg/mL) 1% v/v are added and mixed; the first filling is to 90% of the mold, and the remaining oil is poured in after one minute. Finally, it is allowed to stand at room temperature for about 1 hour to form, and the bamboo orchid lipstick is obtained, as shown in Figure 7; wherein, the final concentration of bamboo orchid extract in the lipstick is 1% w/w.

竹叶兰香皂的制备:根据纯天然手工皂的配方选择天然透明皂基、氨基酸起泡剂2%作为基底,首先将皂基倒入烧杯中,温度为80℃隔水加热,并缓慢搅拌增加融化速度直至彻底融化成液体取出。加入氨基酸起泡剂2%以及竹叶兰提取物溶液(浓度为1mg/mL)1%v/v,用刮刀慢慢搅匀,最后在温热状态下用刮刀挡住浮于上层得气泡将皂液缓慢倒入模具,等待1-2小时后脱模即可得到香皂成品,制得竹叶兰香皂,如图7所示;其中,竹叶兰提取物在香皂中的终浓度为10mg/L。Preparation of bamboo orchid soap: According to the formula of pure natural handmade soap, natural transparent soap base and 2% amino acid foaming agent are selected as the base. First, pour the soap base into a beaker, heat it at 80°C in water, and slowly stir to increase the melting speed until it is completely melted into liquid and taken out. Add 2% amino acid foaming agent and 1% v/v bamboo orchid extract solution (concentration of 1 mg/mL), stir slowly with a spatula, and finally use a spatula to block the bubbles floating on the upper layer in a warm state and slowly pour the soap solution into the mold. Wait for 1-2 hours and then demold to obtain the finished soap, and prepare bamboo orchid soap, as shown in Figure 7; wherein, the final concentration of bamboo orchid extract in the soap is 10 mg/L.

竹叶兰爽肤水的制备:准备去离子水、甘油、玻尿酸、维生素B3作为爽肤水基底原料,并调整爽肤水配方添加量为去离子水72%、甘油10%、玻尿酸6%、维生素B3 2%,竹叶兰提取物溶液(浓度为1mg/mL)10%。首先将甘油及去离子水按比例混匀,再依次添加玻尿酸、维生素B3及竹叶兰提取物溶液,充分摇匀至均质即可得到竹叶兰爽肤水,如图7所示;其中,竹叶兰提取物在爽肤水中的终浓度为100mg/L。Preparation of bamboo orchid toner: prepare deionized water, glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin B3 as toner base materials, and adjust the toner formula to include 72% deionized water, 10% glycerin, 6% hyaluronic acid, 2% vitamin B3 , and 10% bamboo orchid extract solution (concentration of 1 mg/mL). First, mix glycerin and deionized water in proportion, then add hyaluronic acid, vitamin B3 , and bamboo orchid extract solution in sequence, and shake thoroughly until homogeneous to obtain bamboo orchid toner, as shown in Figure 7; wherein, the final concentration of bamboo orchid extract in the toner is 100 mg/L.

2、竹叶兰提取物护肤品质量评估:2. Quality evaluation of skin care products containing Bamboo Orchid extract:

(1)感官评估:根据国标GB/T 26513-2011对竹叶兰唇膏、爽肤水、香皂的感官指标进行评估。观察添加竹叶兰提取物的护肤品的颜色、气味、形状,唇膏和香皂表面是否光滑,有无气孔及杂质等,爽肤水质地是否均匀。(1) Sensory evaluation: The sensory indicators of bamboo orchid lipstick, toner, and soap were evaluated according to the national standard GB/T 26513-2011. The color, smell, and shape of the skin care products containing bamboo orchid extract were observed; whether the surface of the lipstick and soap was smooth, whether there were pores and impurities, etc.; and whether the texture of the toner was uniform.

(2)耐寒试验:取2份护肤品(两只唇膏、2块香皂或2份爽肤水),一份作为对照置于常温,将实验护肤品取出,置于-10℃冰箱24h,取出待恢复室温后观察其形状是否弯曲或分层等现象,唇膏膏体或香皂皂体表面有无裂痕,涂抹使用感受是否有变化。(2) Cold resistance test: Take 2 skin care products (two lipsticks, 2 bars of soap or 2 toners), keep one as a control at room temperature, take out the experimental skin care product and place it in a -10℃ refrigerator for 24 hours. After taking it out and returning it to room temperature, observe whether its shape is bent or layered, whether there are cracks on the surface of the lipstick or soap, and whether the application experience changes.

(3)耐热试验:取两只唇膏、两块香皂或2份爽肤水,将膏体旋出、皂体或爽肤水分别放置于室温和45℃恒温箱中,24h后将恒温箱中的护肤品取出,待其恢复室温后,比较两只护肤品的形状,观察是否弯曲软化或分层等现象,嗅闻膏体是否有变质气味。(3) Heat resistance test: Take two lipsticks, two bars of soap or two portions of toner, twist out the lipstick, and place the soap or toner in a constant temperature box at room temperature and 45°C respectively. After 24 hours, take out the skin care products in the constant temperature box. After they return to room temperature, compare the shapes of the two skin care products to see if they are bent, softened or layered, and smell whether the lipstick has a spoiled odor.

(4)稳定性实验:取竹叶兰爽肤水置于离心管内,以转速3750rpm离心30min(相当于一年重力),观察其质地是否均匀,有无分层现象出现以评定爽肤水的稳定性。(4) Stability test: Place the bamboo orchid toner in a centrifuge tube and centrifuge it at 3750 rpm for 30 min (equivalent to one year's gravity). Observe whether its texture is uniform and whether there is any stratification to evaluate the stability of the toner.

3、对竹叶兰提取物护肤品质量进行评估的结果发现,由于竹叶兰提取物溶液(浓度为1mg/mL)呈黄绿色,随着加入量的增加护肤品颜色逐渐加深,加入量为20%v/v时各个护肤品呈深黄绿色,不符合感官需求且对稳定性有一定影响。综合考虑保证感官在合适的范围内,并且保证一定的功效能力故选择竹叶兰提取物溶液的加入量为1~10%作为最终配方。制得竹叶兰唇膏、香皂、爽肤水如图7所示。对制备的竹叶兰护肤品进行质量评价,结果如表3所示。相对于未添加竹叶兰提取物的对照组,添加竹叶兰提取物对于护肤品的质量未产生较大的影响。爽肤水中添加了竹叶兰提取物后,颜色由透明无色变为黄绿色,并略带淡淡的竹叶兰香气,对于爽肤水的肤感并无影响,pH值在人体皮肤接受的范围内不会造成皮肤刺激的问题。唇膏由于基质使用了黄蜂蜡,膏体在加入竹叶兰后颜色改变不明显,香皂呈现透明的淡黄色,均无特殊气味。三个竹叶兰护肤品在耐寒、耐热实验后均未出现变质或形态改变,说明加入竹叶兰提取物对于护肤品的性质没有影响。爽肤水作为油水混合的护肤品,在等同于一年的重力离心后未见明显的分层现象,说明其稳定性良好。另外,所有护肤品放置于室温下三个月后也未见油水分离或变质现象出现。3. The results of the evaluation of the quality of bamboo orchid extract skin care products showed that the bamboo orchid extract solution (concentration of 1 mg/mL) was yellow-green, and the color of the skin care products gradually deepened with the increase of the amount added. When the amount added was 20% v/v, each skin care product was dark yellow-green, which did not meet the sensory requirements and had a certain impact on stability. Comprehensive consideration was given to ensure that the sensory organs were within the appropriate range and to ensure a certain efficacy, so the amount of bamboo orchid extract solution added was 1-10% as the final formula. The prepared bamboo orchid lipstick, soap, and toner were shown in Figure 7. The quality of the prepared bamboo orchid skin care products was evaluated, and the results are shown in Table 3. Compared with the control group without bamboo orchid extract, the addition of bamboo orchid extract did not have a significant effect on the quality of the skin care products. After adding bamboo orchid extract to the toner, the color changed from transparent and colorless to yellow-green, with a slight bamboo orchid fragrance, which had no effect on the skin feel of the toner, and the pH value was within the range acceptable to human skin and would not cause skin irritation. Since the lipstick uses yellow beeswax as its base, the color of the paste does not change significantly after adding bamboo orchid. The soap is transparent light yellow and has no special smell. The three bamboo orchid skin care products did not deteriorate or change in shape after the cold and heat resistance tests, indicating that the addition of bamboo orchid extract has no effect on the properties of the skin care products. Toner, as a skin care product that is a mixture of oil and water, did not show obvious stratification after gravity centrifugation equivalent to one year, indicating that it has good stability. In addition, all skin care products did not show oil-water separation or deterioration after being placed at room temperature for three months.

表3竹叶兰护肤品进行质量评价Table 3 Quality evaluation of bamboo leaf orchid skin care products

4、采用实施例1中酪氨酸酶抑制率、DPPH自由基清除率、ABTS+自由基清除率的测试方法,对竹叶兰爽肤水酪氨酸酶抑制率、DPPH自由基清除率、ABTS+自由基清除率的指标进行检测。4. The tyrosinase inhibition rate, DPPH free radical scavenging rate, and ABTS + free radical scavenging rate test methods in Example 1 were used to test the tyrosinase inhibition rate, DPPH free radical scavenging rate, and ABTS + free radical scavenging rate of the bamboo orchid toner.

结果如图8所示,测定添加竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水的抗氧化能力及酪氨酸酶抑制率,以相同配方未添加竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水作为对照,添加竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水显著高于基质组。基质组由于添加了维生素B3等具有抗氧化能力的基质,也具有一定的抗氧化能力,但是相对于竹叶兰提取物爽肤水还是由明显差异。而两种爽肤水在酪氨酸酶抑制率上的表现也存在显著差异,但添加了竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水的酪氨酸酶抑制率也仅有33%左右。这可能是因为添加量较少,无法达到抑制酪氨酸酶的含量。综上所述,竹叶兰爽肤水保留了竹叶兰提取物的抗氧化能力和酪氨酸酶抑制能力。The results are shown in Figure 8. The antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibition rate of the toner with bamboo orchid extract were measured. The toner with the same formula but without bamboo orchid extract was used as a control. The toner with bamboo orchid extract was significantly higher than the matrix group. The matrix group also has a certain antioxidant capacity due to the addition of matrix with antioxidant capacity such as vitamin B3 , but there is still a significant difference compared with the bamboo orchid extract toner. There are also significant differences in the performance of the two toners in the tyrosinase inhibition rate, but the tyrosinase inhibition rate of the toner with bamboo orchid extract is only about 33%. This may be because the amount added is small and the content of tyrosinase inhibition cannot be reached. In summary, the bamboo orchid toner retains the antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibition ability of bamboo orchid extract.

5、对皮肤的保湿能力是护肤品最基本的指标,功能优良的爽肤水和唇膏应当对皮肤具有较好的保湿补水能力。为进一步探究竹叶兰护肤品对于人体皮肤保湿能力和美白能力,对使用竹叶兰护肤品后进行人体皮肤水分含量测定和色度测定。5. The ability to moisturize the skin is the most basic indicator of skin care products. Toners and lipsticks with excellent functions should have good moisturizing and hydrating abilities. In order to further explore the moisturizing and whitening abilities of bamboo orchid skin care products on human skin, the moisture content and colorimetry of human skin were measured after using bamboo orchid skin care products.

(1)皮肤水份含量测定:随机选择10位性别随机、年龄在18~35岁的志愿者进行测试,测试当天早上测试区域不能涂抹任何化妆品。首先志愿者用清水洗净手臂内侧区域,并标记出4cm×4cm的实验区,然后在温度为25℃左右、空气湿度约为60%的实验房间内静坐等待30min。在实验区域涂抹加入竹叶兰提取物的护肤品,以未加入竹叶兰提取物的相同基质护肤品作为阳性对照,未涂抹任何护肤品作为阴性对照,测试期间志愿者不得离开测试房间,且不进行饮食及剧烈活动。测试周期为3h,每间隔30min使用皮肤测试仪进行皮肤水分含量测定,每个区域重复测试三次取平均值。(1) Determination of skin moisture content: 10 volunteers of random gender and aged between 18 and 35 years old were randomly selected for the test. No cosmetics were allowed to be applied to the test area on the morning of the test. First, the volunteers washed the inner area of their arms with clean water and marked a 4cm×4cm experimental area. Then they sat quietly in the experimental room with a temperature of about 25°C and an air humidity of about 60% and waited for 30 minutes. Skin care products with bamboo orchid extract were applied to the experimental area. The same matrix skin care products without bamboo orchid extract were used as positive controls, and no skin care products were applied as negative controls. During the test, volunteers were not allowed to leave the test room, and they were not allowed to eat or engage in strenuous activities. The test cycle was 3 hours. The skin moisture content was measured using a skin tester every 30 minutes. The test was repeated three times for each area and the average value was taken.

(2)皮肤色素度测试:皮肤色素度使用皮肤分析仪进行测试,基于光谱吸收原理,测试时将探头垂直按压于皮肤表面,等待测试完成即可在查看受试者皮肤色数值(0-99)。数值越高,皮肤黑色素值越低。(2) Skin pigmentation test: Skin pigmentation is tested using a skin analyzer based on the principle of spectral absorption. During the test, the probe is pressed vertically on the skin surface. After the test is completed, the subject's skin color value (0-99) can be viewed. The higher the value, the lower the skin melanin value.

(3)随机选择5位志愿者,年龄为18~24岁之间。受试者在手臂内侧区域,并标记出4cm×4cm的实验区,每日早晚各涂抹一次,涂抹前清洗受试区域。涂抹后30min内不做剧烈运动以保证试样的吸收。测试志愿者使用0、7、14、21天时的皮肤色素度,重复三次取平均值。(3) Randomly select 5 volunteers aged between 18 and 24 years old. Mark a 4 cm × 4 cm test area on the inner arm area of the subject and apply the product once in the morning and evening every day. Wash the test area before application. Do not do strenuous exercise within 30 minutes after application to ensure the absorption of the sample. Test the skin pigmentation of the volunteers on days 0, 7, 14, and 21, and repeat three times to take the average value.

实验结果如图9所示,以使用前和使用后30、60、90、120、150、180min时相对变化率为指标,所有样品在测试期间均未对受试者皮肤造成刺激性影响,未见红肿过敏等现象。竹叶兰爽肤水与基质爽肤水在使用0-2h之内都呈现较好的补水能力,皮肤含水率在相较尚未使用之前有显著的提高,在第180min时使用竹叶兰爽肤水组相对变化率为22.2%,基质组为7.4%,相对未使用爽肤水的空白组使用爽肤水表现出了较好的保湿能力。在测试过程中,前160min内竹叶兰组的相对变化率较基质组变化较为缓慢,在180min时相对变化率仍然显著高于基质组;竹叶兰唇膏在使用120min时皮肤水分变化率为3.9%,高于基质组;说明添加竹叶兰的护肤品表现出了较好的补水保湿能力。The experimental results are shown in Figure 9. Taking the relative change rate before and after use at 30, 60, 90, 120, 150, and 180 minutes as an indicator, all samples did not cause irritation to the subjects' skin during the test period, and no redness, swelling, allergies, etc. were observed. Bamboo orchid toner and matrix toner both showed good hydration ability within 0-2 hours of use, and the skin moisture content was significantly improved compared to before use. At the 180th minute, the relative change rate of the bamboo orchid toner group was 22.2%, and that of the matrix group was 7.4%. Compared with the blank group that did not use toner, the toner showed good moisturizing ability. During the test, the relative change rate of the bamboo orchid group in the first 160 minutes changed more slowly than that of the matrix group, and at 180 minutes, the relative change rate was still significantly higher than that of the matrix group; the skin moisture change rate of the bamboo orchid lipstick was 3.9% after 120 minutes of use, which was higher than that of the matrix group; this shows that the skin care products added with bamboo orchid showed good hydration and moisturizing ability.

受试者连续使用竹叶兰爽肤水0、7、14、21、28天时测试皮肤色素度,计算其皮肤色素度相对变化率如图10所示。未添加竹叶兰提取物的基质爽肤水在使用7到28天内与初始值相比变化率较低,对比各阶段的皮肤色素度没有显著的差别,说明未添加竹叶兰的爽肤水不具有美白效果。而添加了竹叶兰提取物的爽肤水在使用14天到21天时皮肤色素度开始有显著的变化,28天时皮肤色素度相对未使用之前变化率达到了2.4%,在使用28天时皮肤色素度值相对于初始值出现了显著的变化,说明竹叶兰爽肤水具有一定的美白效果。The subjects used the bamboo orchid toner for 0, 7, 14, 21, and 28 days, and the relative change rate of the skin pigmentation was calculated as shown in Figure 10. The base toner without bamboo orchid extract had a lower change rate compared with the initial value during the 7-28 days of use, and there was no significant difference in the skin pigmentation at each stage, indicating that the toner without bamboo orchid extract did not have a whitening effect. The skin pigmentation of the toner with bamboo orchid extract began to change significantly from 14 to 21 days of use, and the change rate of skin pigmentation reached 2.4% on the 28th day relative to the previous use. The skin pigmentation value showed a significant change relative to the initial value on the 28th day of use, indicating that the bamboo orchid toner has a certain whitening effect.

上述实施例为本发明较佳的实施方式,但本发明的实施方式并不受上述实施例的限制,其他的任何未背离本发明的精神实质与原理下所作的改变、修饰、替代、组合、简化,均应为等效的置换方式,都包含在本发明的保护范围之内。The above embodiments are preferred implementation modes of the present invention, but the implementation modes of the present invention are not limited to the above embodiments. Any other changes, modifications, substitutions, combinations, and simplifications that do not deviate from the spirit and principles of the present invention should be equivalent replacement methods and are included in the protection scope of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. The application of the herba Lophatheri extract in preparing cosmetics is characterized in that: the herba Lophatheri extract has inhibiting effect on tyrosinase, and can effectively achieve effects of whitening, removing freckle and preventing melanin precipitation, and meanwhile has moisturizing capability;
the preparation method of the herba phyllanthi extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pretreatment: cleaning herba Lophatheri, cutting, and oven drying; pulverizing dried herba Lophatheri, and sieving to obtain herba Lophatheri powder;
(2) And (3) treatment: soaking the dried herba phyllanthi powder in 10-50 mL ethanol water solution solvent of 1 g; wherein the volume fraction of the ethanol aqueous solution solvent is 0-80%; carrying out ultrasonic auxiliary extraction after soaking, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for a plurality of times, wherein each time lasts for a certain time;
(3) Separating: separating the liquid extract obtained in the step (2) through centrifugation or filtration, and combining the liquid extracts;
(4) Concentrating and freeze drying: concentrating the extract obtained in the step (3) through rotary evaporation to obtain an extract concentrated solution; freeze drying the concentrated solution to obtain the herba Lophatheri extract.
2. The use according to claim 1, characterized in that:
in the step (2), the power of the ultrasonic auxiliary extraction is 160-400W;
in the step (2), the duration of each time is 10-50 min.
3. The use according to claim 2, characterized in that:
in the step (2), 1g of bamboo She Lanfen powder 30-50 mL of ethanol water solution solvent is taken as an extraction proportion;
In the step (2), the volume fraction of the ethanol aqueous solution solvent is 20-80%;
in the step (2), the duration of each time is 30-50 min.
4. A use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that:
In the step (1), the bamboo She Lanwei bamboo She Lanquan strain;
In the step (1), the shearing is carried out until the shearing is carried out to 2-3 cm;
In the step (1), the sieving is that a 60-100 mesh sieve is adopted;
In the step (2), the soaking time is 2-6 hours;
in the step (2), the ultrasonic frequency is 3 times;
in the step (4), the time of freeze drying is 24-72 h.
5. A use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that:
The cosmetic contains the herba Lophatheri extract, and the addition amount of the herba Lophatheri extract in the cosmetic is 10-100 mg/L.
6. A use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that:
the cosmetic comprises the following components: water, emulsion, cream, spray, essence, essential oil, soap, washing and caring or make-up.
7. The use according to claim 6, characterized in that:
the cosmetic is toner, lipstick or soap.
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