Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the defects in the prior art and provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns.
A manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns comprises the following weaving process:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7-9 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 50-70 ℃ for drying for 15-25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 340-360;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 80-100 ℃ for 3-5 minutes, stacking 5-15 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: 13-15 steam filatures of 30/35D are blended and refined and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 20-40 times during refining to enable the silk body to be loose into wool, bottom weft is twisted, refined, dyed, wound, doubled, shaken and plated with gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 2-4 groups of weft yarns and a group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the warp yarns and the weft yarns to interweave and display patterns when the pattern is weaved;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
Further, the brocade weaving machine is a large-flower building wood weaving machine.
Further, the gold and silver wires are divided into nine-nine gold, nine-eight gold, nine-two gold and pure silver according to different gold contents.
Furthermore, the gold card is a traditional gold card and silver foil which are adhered on the lining paper, the gold card and the silver foil are cut into strips of a certain scale after being smoked, and the strips are arranged in the belly of the knife and are brought into the opening of the warp yarn by the knife when being woven.
Furthermore, the small weft bobbins with different colors can be replaced according to the colors of the patterns when the patterns are weaved, and the used colors are about 20-30.
Furthermore, the patterns are woven by adopting the process technique of digging the patterns and making up colors by using a small weft bobbin shuttle.
Furthermore, the colors of the patterns used by the small weft bobbin shuttle can reach more than twenty, the same weft has more than ten patterns with different colors woven by colorful patterns and wefts, and the patterns are woven by using 3-5 interhalo color matching methods, namely, the colors are divided into a plurality of layers from deep to light to be faded, so that the patterns are changed from deep to light.
The transparent yarns and the brocade are added for weaving together, the skein tissues and the makeup flower tissues are simultaneously shown on the fabric, the solid makeup flower is formed, the woven patterns are natural and vivid, if the patterns are generated generally, the texture and the three-dimensional effect which are rich in layers cannot be achieved by other brocade, the transparent yarns are woven together and are woven according to the condition, and the embroidered patterns on the fabric cannot be influenced.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further illustrated with reference to the following specific examples.
Example one
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 50 ℃ for drying for 15 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 340;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 80 ℃ for 3 minutes, stacking 5 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: 13 steam filatures of 30/35D are blended and refined firstly and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 20 times during refining to enable the silk body to be loose into wool, and bottom weft is processed through skeining → refining → dyeing → winding → doubling → shaking weft and then loading gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric formed by interweaving 2 groups of wefts and one group of warps is used, and the warp is used as the pattern warp and the pattern weft for interweaving and displaying patterns during pattern weaving instead of using the pattern warp;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
Example two
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 8 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 60 ℃ for drying for 15-25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 350;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water at 90 ℃ for 4 minutes, stacking 10 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: firstly, carrying out doubling and refining by using 14 factory silks of 30/35D, then dyeing, carrying out hammering for 30 times during the refining to loosen the silk body into wool, carrying out bottom weft through skeining → refining → dyeing → winding → doubling → shaking weft, and then carrying out piece gold loading;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 3 groups of weft yarns and one group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the pattern yarns and are interwoven with the pattern yarns to form the colorful fabric without using the pattern yarns when in pattern weaving;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
EXAMPLE III
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 9 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 70 ℃ for drying for 25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 360;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 100 ℃ for 5 minutes, stacking 15 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: firstly, 15 factory silks of 30/35D are blended and refined and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 40 times during refining to loosen the silk body into wool, and bottom weft yarns are twisted, refined → dyed → spooled → doubled → shaken and then plated with gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 4 groups of weft yarns and one group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the pattern yarns to interweave with the pattern yarns instead of the pattern yarns when the pattern yarns are weaved;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
The pattern of the makeup flower fabric is tested through the makeup flower brocade woven by the embodiment:
examples
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Example 1
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Example 2
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Example 3
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Sichuan brocade
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Song Jin
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Color(s)
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Natural moistening
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Natural moistening
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Natural moistening
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Over-bright color
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Over-bright color
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Texture of
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Rich in layers
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Rich in layers
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Rich in layers
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Single texture
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Single texture
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Stereoscopic effect
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Alive and lively showing
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Animated character
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Vivid image
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Single board of death
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Single board of death
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Hand feeling
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Heavy and soft
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Heavy and soft
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Heavy and soft
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Softness
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Softness
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Presence or absence of static electricity
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Is free of
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Is free of
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Is free of
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Is provided with
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Is provided with |
The transparent yarns and the brocade are added for weaving together, the skein tissues and the makeup flower tissues are simultaneously shown on the fabric, the solid makeup flower is formed, the woven patterns are natural and vivid, if the patterns are generated generally, the texture and the three-dimensional effect which are rich in layers cannot be achieved by other brocade, the transparent yarns are woven together and are woven according to the condition, and the embroidered patterns on the fabric cannot be influenced.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.