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CN114000244A - Manufacturing process of industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns - Google Patents

Manufacturing process of industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns Download PDF

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Publication number
CN114000244A
CN114000244A CN202111436923.8A CN202111436923A CN114000244A CN 114000244 A CN114000244 A CN 114000244A CN 202111436923 A CN202111436923 A CN 202111436923A CN 114000244 A CN114000244 A CN 114000244A
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patterns
weft
woven
transparent
pattern
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CN114000244B (en
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谢凌龙
林威
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Xiamen Zaodai Network Technology Co ltd
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Xiamen Zaodai Network Technology Co ltd
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D03D15/235Cashmere or silk
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/547Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads with optical functions other than colour, e.g. comprising light-emitting fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/60Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the warp or weft elements other than yarns or threads
    • D03D15/67Metal wires

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种彩色图案与透明纱共织的工业云锦妆花制作工艺,包括以下织造工艺:S1:蚕丝制备:通过练丝、染色、络丝、加捻和并丝对蚕丝进行制备,制备得到蚕丝备用;S2:透明纱制备:将准备好的透明纱线在抗静电剂浸泡7‑9秒,再将浸泡过后的透明纱放置于50‑70℃的烘干箱内烘干15‑25分钟,透明纱熟条依次经过粗纱工艺以及细纱工艺制得所需透明纱线,本发明通过加入了透明纱与云锦共同织造,使绞纱组织和妆花组织同时出现在织物面料上,形成实地妆花,织成的花纹润色自然,生动逼真,如若生成一般,这种富有层次的质感和立体效果是其它纬锦无法达到的。The invention discloses an industrial cloud brocade makeup production process in which color patterns and transparent yarns are co-woven, including the following weaving processes: S1: silk preparation: silk is prepared by refining, dyeing, winding, twisting and doubling the silk, The silk is prepared for use; S2: transparent yarn preparation: soak the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7-9 seconds, and then place the soaked transparent yarn in a drying box at 50-70°C for 15- In 25 minutes, the transparent yarn sliver is successively passed through the roving process and the spun yarn process to obtain the required transparent yarn. In the present invention, the transparent yarn and the cloud brocade are added to weave together, so that the hank structure and the makeup structure appear on the fabric at the same time, forming a Makeup on the ground, the woven pattern is natural and vivid. If it is generated, this rich texture and three-dimensional effect cannot be achieved by other weft brocades.

Description

Manufacturing process of industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of weaving, in particular to a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns.
Background
The manual weaving technique of Nanjing brocade wood machine-made flower, the local traditional technique of Nanjing City of Jiangsu province, and one of the national non-material cultural heritage.
The manual weaving process of the Nanjing brocade wood machine makeup flower is complicated, and more than ten steps of assembling and drawing out, blocking, drawing out edges, finding out broken ends, connecting joints, drawing out the flower, shaking the weft, practicing the shuttle, throwing the shuttle, digging the flower and passing the tube, making up the color and matching the flower, weaving and beating up are carried out.
The cosmetic flower is the most difficult and complex variety of the brocade weaving process. In the weaving method, various color velvet weft tubes wound with different colors are used for weaving the pattern on the fabric into a local pattern-cutting disk, and the color matching is extremely free, so that the pattern on the fabric obtains vivid and beautiful artistic effect.
However, the existing brocade makeup flowers are basically manufactured by using assembling and drawing, blocking, drawing edges, finding and breaking ends, connecting, drawing flowers, shaking weft, training shuttle, throwing shuttle, digging flower tube, making up flower color matching and weaving and beating-up, but the brocade makeup flowers are not well woven with transparent yarns to form the brocade makeup flowers.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to solve the defects in the prior art and provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns.
A manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns comprises the following weaving process:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7-9 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 50-70 ℃ for drying for 15-25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 340-360;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 80-100 ℃ for 3-5 minutes, stacking 5-15 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: 13-15 steam filatures of 30/35D are blended and refined and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 20-40 times during refining to enable the silk body to be loose into wool, bottom weft is twisted, refined, dyed, wound, doubled, shaken and plated with gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 2-4 groups of weft yarns and a group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the warp yarns and the weft yarns to interweave and display patterns when the pattern is weaved;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
Further, the brocade weaving machine is a large-flower building wood weaving machine.
Further, the gold and silver wires are divided into nine-nine gold, nine-eight gold, nine-two gold and pure silver according to different gold contents.
Furthermore, the gold card is a traditional gold card and silver foil which are adhered on the lining paper, the gold card and the silver foil are cut into strips of a certain scale after being smoked, and the strips are arranged in the belly of the knife and are brought into the opening of the warp yarn by the knife when being woven.
Furthermore, the small weft bobbins with different colors can be replaced according to the colors of the patterns when the patterns are weaved, and the used colors are about 20-30.
Furthermore, the patterns are woven by adopting the process technique of digging the patterns and making up colors by using a small weft bobbin shuttle.
Furthermore, the colors of the patterns used by the small weft bobbin shuttle can reach more than twenty, the same weft has more than ten patterns with different colors woven by colorful patterns and wefts, and the patterns are woven by using 3-5 interhalo color matching methods, namely, the colors are divided into a plurality of layers from deep to light to be faded, so that the patterns are changed from deep to light.
The transparent yarns and the brocade are added for weaving together, the skein tissues and the makeup flower tissues are simultaneously shown on the fabric, the solid makeup flower is formed, the woven patterns are natural and vivid, if the patterns are generated generally, the texture and the three-dimensional effect which are rich in layers cannot be achieved by other brocade, the transparent yarns are woven together and are woven according to the condition, and the embroidered patterns on the fabric cannot be influenced.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be further illustrated with reference to the following specific examples.
Example one
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 50 ℃ for drying for 15 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 340;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 80 ℃ for 3 minutes, stacking 5 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: 13 steam filatures of 30/35D are blended and refined firstly and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 20 times during refining to enable the silk body to be loose into wool, and bottom weft is processed through skeining → refining → dyeing → winding → doubling → shaking weft and then loading gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric formed by interweaving 2 groups of wefts and one group of warps is used, and the warp is used as the pattern warp and the pattern weft for interweaving and displaying patterns during pattern weaving instead of using the pattern warp;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
Example two
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 8 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 60 ℃ for drying for 15-25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 350;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water at 90 ℃ for 4 minutes, stacking 10 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: firstly, carrying out doubling and refining by using 14 factory silks of 30/35D, then dyeing, carrying out hammering for 30 times during the refining to loosen the silk body into wool, carrying out bottom weft through skeining → refining → dyeing → winding → doubling → shaking weft, and then carrying out piece gold loading;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 3 groups of weft yarns and one group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the pattern yarns and are interwoven with the pattern yarns to form the colorful fabric without using the pattern yarns when in pattern weaving;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
EXAMPLE III
The invention provides a manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns, which comprises the following steps:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 9 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 70 ℃ for drying for 25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 360;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 100 ℃ for 5 minutes, stacking 15 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: firstly, 15 factory silks of 30/35D are blended and refined and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 40 times during refining to loosen the silk body into wool, and bottom weft yarns are twisted, refined → dyed → spooled → doubled → shaken and then plated with gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 4 groups of weft yarns and one group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the pattern yarns to interweave with the pattern yarns instead of the pattern yarns when the pattern yarns are weaved;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
The pattern of the makeup flower fabric is tested through the makeup flower brocade woven by the embodiment:
examples Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Sichuan brocade Song Jin
Color(s) Natural moistening Natural moistening Natural moistening Over-bright color Over-bright color
Texture of Rich in layers Rich in layers Rich in layers Single texture Single texture
Stereoscopic effect Alive and lively showing Animated character Vivid image Single board of death Single board of death
Hand feeling Heavy and soft Heavy and soft Heavy and soft Softness Softness
Presence or absence of static electricity Is free of Is free of Is free of Is provided with Is provided with
The transparent yarns and the brocade are added for weaving together, the skein tissues and the makeup flower tissues are simultaneously shown on the fabric, the solid makeup flower is formed, the woven patterns are natural and vivid, if the patterns are generated generally, the texture and the three-dimensional effect which are rich in layers cannot be achieved by other brocade, the transparent yarns are woven together and are woven according to the condition, and the embroidered patterns on the fabric cannot be influenced.
The above description is only for the preferred embodiment of the present invention, but the scope of the present invention is not limited thereto, and any person skilled in the art should be considered to be within the technical scope of the present invention, and the technical solutions and the inventive concepts thereof according to the present invention should be equivalent or changed within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (7)

1. A manufacturing process of an industrial brocade makeup flower co-woven by colorful patterns and transparent yarns is characterized by comprising the following weaving process:
s1: silk preparation: preparing silk by silk-refining, dyeing, silk winding, twisting and silk doubling, and preparing the silk for later use;
s2: preparing a transparent yarn: soaking the prepared transparent yarn in an antistatic agent for 7-9 seconds, then placing the soaked transparent yarn in a drying oven at 50-70 ℃ for drying for 15-25 minutes, and sequentially carrying out a roving process and a spun yarn process on the drawn sliver of the transparent yarn to obtain the required transparent yarn, wherein the dry weight of the roving is 6.02g/10m, and the roving twist coefficient is 55; the drawing multiple of the spun yarn is 35, and the twist coefficient is 340-360;
s3: preparation of the metallic yarns: preparing carrier paper of gold foil, scalding the carrier paper with water of 80-100 ℃ for 3-5 minutes, stacking 5-15 pieces of the scalded paper layer by layer in order, pressing out water by using a stone strip, beating by using a wooden hammer, and weaving into seven-ply paper and two-ply paper, wherein the seven-ply paper is used for round gold threads, and the two-ply paper is used for flat gold threads;
s4: preparing in a warp direction: skein → bobbin winding → single filament twisting → doubling → secondary twisting → flying back → refining → dyeing → winding → warping;
s5: weft preparation: 13-15 steam filatures of 30/35D are blended and refined and then dyed, hammering is carried out for 20-40 times during refining to enable the silk body to be loose into wool, bottom weft is twisted, refined, dyed, wound, doubled, shaken and plated with gold;
s6: dyeing: dyeing by a plant dyeing process;
s7: besides weaving patterns by adopting a technological method of shuttle passing and shuttle changing in sections, simultaneously using small weft pipes shuttles wound with different colors of knitting wool to carry out pattern digging and color making on the patterns on the fabric by using a shuttle digging machine for local weft returning after passing and breaking of weft, and matching with a pressure barrier, thus weaving the on-site make-up colored yarn with unique texture;
s8: the colorful fabric is formed by interweaving 2-4 groups of weft yarns and a group of warp yarns, and the warp yarns are used as the warp yarns and the weft yarns to interweave and display patterns when the pattern is weaved;
s9: when the pattern is woven on the front surface, the pattern weft and the ground warp are interwoven to weave patterns, when the pattern is not woven, the pattern weft sinks on the back surface of the fabric to be not interwoven, so that the back surface of the pattern making-up fabric and the part without the pattern are both provided with long and short floating line type lines;
s10: the technique of vignetting and degaussing from dark to light and the technique of alternate white and gold color edge crossing are adopted to make the flower.
2. The process for making industrial brocade makeup patterns co-woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns according to claim 1, wherein a weaving machine adopted by the brocade is a large-pattern building weaving machine.
3. The process for manufacturing industrial brocade makeup patterns co-woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns according to claim 1, wherein the gold and silver threads are divided into nine-nine gold, nine-eight gold, nine-two gold and pure silver according to different gold contents.
4. The process for making industrial brocade makeup patterns co-woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns as claimed in claim 1, wherein the gold-containing pieces are traditional gold-containing pieces and silver foils which are adhered to lining paper, and are cut into strips of a certain scale after being smoked, and the strips are arranged in a knife belly and are brought into a warp opening by a knife when being woven.
5. The process for making industrial brocade makeup and patterns co-woven by colored patterns and transparent yarns according to claim 1, wherein the colors of the small weft bobbins with different colors can be changed according to the colors of the patterns during the pattern weaving, and the colors are about 20 to 30.
6. The process for making industrial brocade makeup color by co-weaving colorful patterns and transparent yarns according to claim 1, wherein the patterns are woven by adopting the process skill of picking the pattern with small picks of weft tubes.
7. The process for making industrial brocade makeup patterns by co-weaving color patterns and transparent yarns according to claim 6, wherein twenty or more colors of patterns are used by small weft bobbins, the same weft has patterns with different colors woven by more than ten color patterns, and the patterns are woven by using a 3-5 interhalo color matching method, namely, the colors are divided into several layers for fading, so that the patterns are changed from dark to light.
CN202111436923.8A 2021-11-30 2021-11-30 A production process of industrial cloud brocade makeup flowers co-woven with colorful patterns and transparent yarn Expired - Fee Related CN114000244B (en)

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JP2012142201A (en) * 2010-12-29 2012-07-26 Panasonic Corp Light emitting device
CN105755646A (en) * 2016-05-17 2016-07-13 南京云锦研究所有限公司 Nanjing brocade sesame yarn weaving method
CN212771164U (en) * 2020-05-27 2021-03-23 东阳市英杰金银线有限公司 Anti-oxidation metallic yarn of antifriction broken string
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