CN105755647B - The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn - Google Patents
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN105755647B CN105755647B CN201610327548.6A CN201610327548A CN105755647B CN 105755647 B CN105755647 B CN 105755647B CN 201610327548 A CN201610327548 A CN 201610327548A CN 105755647 B CN105755647 B CN 105755647B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 45
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 8
- 210000005069 ears Anatomy 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 241000218202 Coptis Species 0.000 claims abstract 4
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- 230000017260 vegetative to reproductive phase transition of meristem Effects 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims description 5
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Classifications
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, belong to Nanjing brocade weaving technology field, comprise the following steps：Step 1) raw material preparation；Step 2) Ridge tracing；Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet, including play ears or side handles of a utensil line, lead bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall flower, parquets, knot originally；Different ground portion decorative patterns and line portion are spent and is picked respectively in cross-stitch work part；Step 4) weaving, including drag flower, disk knit, beat up, take-up and let-off；It is that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drags colored mode and lift decorative pattern, respectively penetrate parallel, form ground portion for two through reeled yarn, dark line part is plain weave, jacquard weave and hedge cooperation are taken in adornment flower part, skill is knitted using swivel disk and is weaved；Step 5) arrange.The present invention possesses following advantage：Solve various problem of materials；Solve method for weaving and step；Produce the leno heald of specific dimensions；This difference of flower spends this with common decorative pattern, coordinates the operating method of Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill and leno heald, reaches the color latitude of weaving and gold thread.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to Nanjing brocade weaving technology field, and in particular to the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn.
Technical background
" adornment flower " is the most complicated kind of weaving process in Nanjing Cloud-pattern Brocade, be also most have Nanjing local characteristic with representative
The jacquard weave silk variety of property.Wooden machine adornment flower weaving process be in China 5,000 years silk weaving history, more than 3,000 years picture-weaving in silk history,
So far can not still be substituted by modern machines.
Diameter yarn is one of Nanjing brocade adornment flower yarn kind, and it weaves skill lost one-hundred-year history.Existing kind is hidden mostly
In the Forbidden City, major museums, the Forbidden City hides " clear bright eight bright cloud gold dragon adornment flower yarn list robes of yellow of Shunzi ", eight grain patterns on robe
The bright yellow of liner patchery twines a lotus line diameter yarn；Nanjing brocade museums " clear sapphire blue ground rivers and mountains all ages diameter yarn ".
Now, mainly with two through reeled yarn as ground, dark pattern portion potted flower is comprehensive and volt is comprehensive and ground weft interweaves, and decorative pattern is or not adornment flower yarn kind
It is apparent and easily loose.
The content of the invention
Goal of the invention：It is an object of the invention to provide the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, decorative pattern in the prior art is overcome
Unapparent and easily loose problem.
Technical scheme：For achieving the above object, the present invention is adopted the following technical scheme that：
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the following steps：
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive model of line, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column preparation, upper warp；Several, draw
It is fine, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end, and all organizine will be penetrated in hedge, hedge
Effect is to coordinate adornment flower to be weaved, silk point between formation；
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arranged including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring, grain pattern is drawn respectively；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line, leading bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, flower, parquets, knot sheet；Cross-stitch work part to different ground portion decorative patterns and
Spend and pick respectively in line portion；
Step 4) weaving
Knit, beat up including dragging flower, disk, take-up and let-off；It is that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drags colored mode and lift flower
Line, respectively penetrates parallel, forms ground portion for two through reeled yarn, and dark line part is plain weave, and jacquard weave and hedge cooperation are taken in adornment flower part,
Skill is knitted using swivel disk to weave；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
Step 2) in, dress make method for through and doup end first 1: 1 ground penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, doup end is penetrated in leno heald again；Leno heald
With spend it is comprehensive be merged into fine line, fine line sum is 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fibre line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, with complete
Into the opening of weaving pattern.
Step 3) in, line portion picks and is picked for conventional, and cross-stitch work knot this method in ground portion is：By design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion
Three times, every three of this bottom sediment of flower line is one group, and bottom sediment line can be used the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, is easy to differentiate the suitable of bottom sediment line
Sequence；Every group lined three row lattice are one group, and ground portion chooses first row lattice, have dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice are corresponded to
The leno heald of fine line.
Comprise the following steps：Step 1) raw material preparation, according to fabric thread count selection silk line；During Fabric Design
To consider that density is suitable, to reach the big effect to displaying figure when plain weave is knitted, and penetrating effect can be reached in doup end
Really；Through close at 30, using 2/30/33D silks；
Step 2) using spending the comprehensive and comprehensive combination of volt to spend this, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；Weaving uses wooden big dress circle
Loom, the distance batched before the dress circle and machine of loom is 1-1.2 meters；Spend it is comprehensive be divided into two groups and spend comprehensive, later group is one-to-one in order
Organizine is hung, previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by way of mutually twisting；The comprehensive two panels of comprehensive rear placement volt is spent, for weaving color latitude
The adornment flower skill of gold thread, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet change, the different and cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part will pick drafting department
Point, a part will pick leno heald part, using spending this and spending comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, the decorative pattern of a part be lifted
While ground a tissue part all lift, directly carry out beating of throwing a spear；And according to the woven difference in line portion of tissue, make figure
To be fabricated separately during case；By taking porter 16 as an example, broadwise 22, the artistic conception ratio of line portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part) is 32/22；And ground
The artistic conception in portion's (diameter yarn secretly spends part) compares 16/11；
Step 4) using woven mode by hand, especially when for ground portion doup end, part organizine is without complete for weaving
Lift or be connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element so that be clearly easy to weaving in organizine opening.
Step 2) in, dress make method for through and doup end first 1：1 ground penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, doup end is penetrated in leno heald again；Leno heald
With spend it is comprehensive be merged into fine line, fine line sum is 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fibre line number, fine line is originally connected with flower again, with complete
Into the opening of weaving pattern.
Step 3) in, line portion picks and is picked for conventional, and cross-stitch work knot this method in ground portion is：Secretly spend to be spent with line portion and originally adopt in ground portion
The same artistic conception ratio is taken, dark decorative pattern spends this bottom sediment line for one group of two row lattice, first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, secondary series lattice correspondence
Dark knurling section；The threeth row lattice cross-stitch work a kind of with respect to a method, is substituted using special crossing heald device on loom.
Step 1) the special crossing heald device of use (leno heald model, is made up of two groups of model subrack, is connected using bamboo chip,
Two groups of models link harness cord, and control organizine rises and falls to form the device of twisting), the weaving of ground portion doup end is completed, crossing heald device is mainly controlled
The twisting of organizine processed, spends comprehensive and lies prostrate rising and falling for comprehensive control organizine, and crossing heald device coordinates spends comprehensive weaving diameter yarn；Spend comprehensive rear placement volt
Comprehensive four, it is mainly used in weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, half
Comprehensive length needs to extend 3cm, total length to 57cm, and fixed harness cord needs to increase length, with the organizine of the non-twisting of control not by
Hoist, length is 18.5cm, doup coordinates fixed twine helad to play fixation, and fixed doup length is accordingly reduced, and length is
25.5cm, the leno heald opening that this size makes can make to reach 4cm, meet the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot sheet part, using crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section and color latitude of dark flower
Knurling section, and according to fabric knitting the need for, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and adornment flower portion during cross-stitch work
Divide (color latitude) cross-stitch work knot sheet routinely, dark flower every two latitude in part is chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue comes flowering, a latitude in combination
By crossing heald device control, another latitude when every two latitude of dark decorative pattern chooses one time, part is secretly spent for having by spending this by spending comprehensive control
Carry out even number (for the ground warp on fabric tissue) to choose and knit, there is no dark knurling section to carry out odd number (doup end on fabric) and choose and knit,
Weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave；
Step 3) weave using woven mode by hand, it is equally higher to weaving person's requirement, when for ground portion doup end, portion
Lease making silk does not lift or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element completely so that organizine is opened
The clear control needs for being easy to weaving, warp tension of mouth get hold of dynamics, while being beaten up to doup end tissue by thinking to grasp
The organizine that dark flower part does not twist is controlled, makes its flowering, lines full clear.
Beneficial effect：Compared with prior art, the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn of the invention, possesses following advantage：1)
Various problem of materials are solved, using conventional woven method, from high-quality silk, is dyeed using vegetable colour；2) solve to knit
Method and steps is made, how with spending comprehensive and leno heald to interweave with ground weft, the operation of loom device is used；3) specific dimensions are produced
Leno heald, difference with common two through reeled yarn loom leno heald, the opening of specific leno heald need to be one times of conventional leno heald；4)
This is picked flower, this difference of flower and common decorative pattern flower this comprehensive rocketed to carrying out tissue, it is necessary to coordinate to spend；5) Nanjing brocade adornment flower is coordinated
The operating method of skill and leno heald, reaches the color latitude of weaving and gold thread.
Brief description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is the structural representation of the first method for weaving loom；
Fig. 2 is the schematic diagram that the first method for weaving spends that comprehensive, leno heald and organizine link；
Fig. 3 is the cross-stitch work schematic diagram of the first method for weaving；
Fig. 4 is second structural representation of method for weaving loom；
Fig. 5 is second crossing heald device schematic diagram of method for weaving loom.
Specific embodiment
With reference to specific embodiment, the present invention is furture elucidated.
The weaving process of diameter yarn：Drawn respectively in artistic conception design process, according to process requirements, dark knurling section
Drawn respectively with adornment flower part.Cross-stitch work is carried out according to different tissues demand in cross-stitch work, is carried out not according to different method for weaving
Same cross-stitch work scheme.Leno heald or to spend comprehensive effect be to lift doup end, doup end interweaves with forming ground-tint mesh with parallel, and dark flower part passes through
Line is formed on the spot with parallel, and adornment flower part recycles the skill that adornment flower swivel disk is knitted, and coordinates volt comprehensive, color latitude (the Nanjing brocade adornment of weaving
Flower skill).Above two weaving mode, is that loom structure can be replaced with comprehensive difference, two ways is spent, and is all up weaving
Effect.
The method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the following steps：
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；The specification of organizine raw material is, it is necessary to according to the thread count of fabric
To determine, density is bigger, and organizine is thinner, otherwise thicker, to reach reeled yarn part Openworks shape on fabric, plain weave part shape on the spot；
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive model of line, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column preparation, upper warp；Several, draw
It is fine, pick up thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end, and all organizine will be penetrated in hedge (volt is comprehensive),
The effect of hedge is to coordinate adornment flower (color latitude) to be weaved, silk point between formation；
The first dress makes method：Ground warp and doup end first 1：1 ground penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, doup end is penetrated in leno heald again；Leno heald and flower
Comprehensive to be merged into fine line (fine line be used for link flower this), fine line sum is 1.5 times of organizine number, flower this with fibre line number, fine line again with
Flower is originally connected, to complete the opening of weaving pattern.
Second dress makes method：Doup end will be then penetrated in crossing heald device, and crossing heald device can be such that doup end normally lifts, and also may be used
Make doup end whole twistings, every colored harness cord (fine line) contains an organizine, and fine line is identical with organizine number, fine line and colored are connected and carry out
Jacquard Weaving is made.
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arranged including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring；Grain pattern is drawn to be needed to draw respectively, dark decorative pattern
The artistic conception of part and adornment flower part will draw respectively than difference.
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line (cotton thread makes, and for being through at bottom sediment line use, does parallel effect), leading bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, fall
Flower, parquets, knot are originally；Cross-stitch work part needs to spend different ground portion decorative patterns and line portion to pick respectively；(there is the portion of decorative pattern in line portion
Point) pick as routine is picked, and ground portion (part without dark flower) cross-stitch work knot originally takes special mode cross-stitch work.
The first ground portion cross-stitch work method：Three times of design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion, every three of this bottom sediment of flower line is one group, bottom sediment
Line can be used the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, be easy to differentiate the order of bottom sediment line；Every group lined three row lattice are one group, and ground portion chooses first
Row lattice, have dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice correspond to the leno heald of fine line；
Second ground portion's cross-stitch work method：Secretly spend and spend the ratio of the artistic conception as originally taking, dark decorative pattern to spend this bottom sediment with line portion in ground portion
Line is one group of two row lattice, and first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, the dark knurling section of secondary series lattice correspondence.A kind of with respect to a method
Three row lattice cross-stitch work, are substituted using special crossing heald device on loom；
Step 4) weaving
Knit, beat up including dragging flower, disk, take-up and let-off；It is that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drags colored mode and lift flower
Line, respectively penetrates parallel, forms ground portion for two through reeled yarn, and dark line part is plain weave, and jacquard weave and hedge cooperation are taken in adornment flower part,
Skill is knitted using swivel disk to weave；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
Embodiment 1
As Figure 1-3, the first method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the following steps：
Step 1) raw material preparation, it is necessary to the suitable silk line of thread count selection according to fabric.Will during Fabric Design
It is suitable in view of density, to reach the big effect to displaying figure when plain weave is knitted, and penetrating effect can be reached in doup end；
In experimental stage, through close at 30, using 2/30/33D silks.
Step 2) using spending the comprehensive and comprehensive combination of volt to spend this, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；Weaving uses wooden big dress circle
Loom, the distance batched before the dress circle and machine of loom is 1-1.2 meters；Spend it is comprehensive be divided into two groups and spend comprehensive, later group is one-to-one in order
Organizine is hung, previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by way of mutually twisting；The comprehensive two panels of comprehensive rear placement volt is spent, for weaving color latitude
The adornment flower skill of gold thread, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet change, the different and cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part will pick drafting department
Point, a part will pick leno heald part, using spending this and spending comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, the decorative pattern of a part be lifted
While ground a tissue part all lift, directly carry out beating of throwing a spear.And according to the woven difference in line portion of tissue, make figure
To be fabricated separately during case；By taking porter 16 as an example, broadwise 22, the artistic conception ratio of line portion (Nanjing brocade adornment flower skill part) is 32/22；And ground
The artistic conception in portion's (diameter yarn secretly spends part) compares 16/11；
Step 4) weaving using woven mode by hand, weaving person is required it is higher, especially when for ground portion doup end,
Part organizine does not lift or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element completely so that organizine
Opening is clear to be easy to weaving.
Embodiment 2
As illustrated in figures 4-5, second method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, comprises the following steps：
Step 1) the special crossing heald device of use (leno heald model, is made up of two groups of model subrack, is connected using bamboo chip,
Two groups of models link harness cord, and control organizine rises and falls to form the device of twisting), the weaving of ground portion doup end is completed, crossing heald device is mainly controlled
The twisting of organizine processed, spends comprehensive and lies prostrate rising and falling for comprehensive control organizine, and crossing heald device coordinates spends comprehensive weaving diameter yarn；Spend comprehensive rear placement volt
Comprehensive four, it is mainly used in weaving the adornment flower skill of color latitude gold thread, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, half
Comprehensive length needs to extend 3cm, total length to 57cm, and fixed harness cord needs to increase length, with the organizine of the non-twisting of control not by
Hoist, length is 18.5cm, doup coordinates fixed twine helad to play fixation, and fixed doup length is accordingly reduced, and length is
25.5cm.The leno heald opening that this size makes can make to reach 4cm, meet the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot sheet part, using crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section and color latitude of dark flower
Knurling section, and according to fabric knitting the need for, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and adornment flower portion during cross-stitch work
Divide (color latitude) cross-stitch work knot sheet routinely, dark flower every two latitude in part is chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue comes flowering, a latitude in combination
By crossing heald device control, another latitude when every two latitude of dark decorative pattern chooses one time, part is secretly spent for having by spending this by spending comprehensive control
Carry out even number (for the ground warp on fabric tissue) to choose and knit, there is no dark knurling section to carry out odd number (doup end on fabric) and choose and knit,
Weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave；
Step 3) weave using woven mode by hand, it is equally higher to weaving person's requirement, when for ground portion doup end, portion
Lease making silk does not lift or is connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element completely so that organizine is opened
The clear control needs for being easy to weaving, warp tension of mouth get hold of dynamics, while being beaten up to doup end tissue by thinking to grasp
The organizine that dark flower part does not twist is controlled, makes its flowering, lines full clear.
Claims (7)
1. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：
Step 1) raw material preparation
Organizine：Throwing, finishing, dyeing, rounding gold thread；
Dress is made：Installation, make crossing heald device, comprehensive model of line, Hua Zong, pass, lift, suspension column preparation, upper warp；Several, draw it is fine, pick up
Thin silk fabric, denting；The organizine of diameter yarn is divided into the first and second warps, i.e., pass through and doup end, and all organizine will be penetrated in hedge, and the effect of hedge is
Adornment flower is coordinated to be weaved, silk point between formation；
Step 2) Ridge tracing
Arranged including grain pattern, draw artistic conception, calculating, amplification, branch, colouring, grain pattern is drawn respectively；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet
Including playing ears or side handles of a utensil line, leading bottom sediment line, cross-stitch work, flower, parquets, knot sheet；Cross-stitch work part is to different ground portion decorative patterns and line portion
This is spent to pick respectively；
Step 4) weaving
Knit, beat up including dragging flower, disk, take-up and let-off；It is that leno heald makes warp mutual twisting during weaving, drags colored mode and lift decorative pattern,
Parallel is respectively penetrated, ground portion is formed for two through reeled yarn, dark line part is plain weave, adornment flower part is taken jacquard weave and hedge cooperation, adopted
Skill is knitted with swivel disk to weave；
Step 5) arrange
Unload goods, repair, it is whole scald, inspection, packaging, storage.
2. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Step 2) in, dress makes method and is
Ground through and doup end first 1: 1 ground penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, doup end is penetrated in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend it is comprehensive be merged into fine line, fine line sum is
1.5 times of organizine number, originally with fibre line number, fine line is originally connected flower with flower again, to complete the opening of weaving pattern.
3. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 2, it is characterised in that：Step 3) in, line portion pick for
Routine is picked, and cross-stitch work knot this method in ground portion is：It is one by three times of design paper grain pattern horizontal expansion, every three of this bottom sediment of flower line
Group, bottom sediment line can be used the line of three kinds of colors to carry out cross-stitch work, be easy to differentiate the order of bottom sediment line；Every group lined three row lattice are one group, ground
Portion chooses first row lattice, has dark flower part to choose secondary series lattice, and the 3rd row lattice correspond to the leno heald of fine line.
4. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：Step 1)
The preparation of raw material, the thread count selection silk line according to fabric；Through close at 30, using 2/30/33D silks；
Step 2) using spending the comprehensive and comprehensive combination of volt to spend this, complete the weaving in ground portion and flower portion；Weaving uses wooden big dress circle loom,
The distance batched before the dress circle and machine of loom is 1-1.2 meters；Spend it is comprehensive be divided into two groups and spend comprehensive, later group in order it is one-to-one hang through
Silk, previous group hangs the organizine of odd number group by way of mutually twisting；The comprehensive two panels of comprehensive rear placement volt is spent, for weaving color latitude gold thread
Adornment spends skill, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；
Step 3) cross-stitch work knot sheet change, the different and cross-stitch work to single pattern, a cross-stitch work part will pick pattern part, one
Part will pick leno heald part, using spending this and spending comprehensive link, while jacquard weave, while the decorative pattern of a part is lifted
Ground tissue part is all lifted, beating of throwing a spear directly is carried out；And according to the woven difference in line portion of tissue, will during pattern-making
It is fabricated separately；
Step 4) weaving using woven mode by hand, especially when for ground portion doup end, part organizine does not lift completely
Or be connected with other organizine it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element so that clearly it is easy to weaving in organizine opening.
5. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Step 2) in, dress makes method and is
Ground through and doup end first 1: 1 ground penetrate spend it is comprehensive in, doup end is penetrated in leno heald again；Leno heald and spend it is comprehensive be merged into fine line, fine line sum is
1.5 times of organizine number, originally with fibre line number, fine line is originally connected flower with flower again, to complete the opening of weaving pattern.
6. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 5, it is characterised in that：Step 3) in, line portion pick for
Routine is picked, and cross-stitch work knot this method in ground portion is：Secretly spend and spend the ratio of the artistic conception as originally taking, dark decorative pattern to spend this pin with line portion in ground portion
Sub-line is one group of two row lattice, and first row lattice correspondence is without flower part, the dark knurling section of secondary series lattice correspondence；It is a kind of with respect to a method
3rd row lattice cross-stitch work, is substituted using loom top doup device.
7. the method for weaving of Nanjing brocade diameter yarn according to claim 1, it is characterised in that：Comprise the following steps：Step 1)
Using special crossing heald device, the weaving of ground portion doup end is completed, the comprehensive and comprehensive control of volt is spent in the twisting of crossing heald device major control organizine
Organizine rises and falls, and crossing heald device coordinates spends comprehensive weaving diameter yarn；Spend comprehensive rear placement volt comprehensive four, be mainly used in weaving color latitude gold thread
Adornment flower skill, silk pressing and the floating length of control on color latitude；Special crossing heald device, the length of doup is needed to extend 3cm, and total length is arrived
57cm, fixed harness cord needs to increase length, is not hoisted with the organizine for controlling non-twisting, and length is 18.5cm, and doup coordinates solid
Comprehensive fixation of alignment, fixed doup length is accordingly reduced, and length is 25.5cm, and the leno heald opening that this size makes can be with
Make to reach 4cm, meet the weaving of the dark decorative pattern of diameter yarn；
Step 2) cross-stitch work knot sheet part, using crossing heald device, cross-stitch work is accomplished by picking the knurling section of dark flower and the flower of color latitude
Line part, and according to fabric knitting the need for, dark flower part and adornment flower part can be drawn simultaneously, and adornment flower part is pressed during cross-stitch work
Conventional cross-stitch work knot sheet, dark flower every two latitude in part is chosen once；Dark decorative pattern is that tissue carrys out flowering in combination, and a latitude is by crossing heald device
Control, another latitude when every two latitude of dark decorative pattern chooses one time, is chosen by spending this by spending comprehensive control for there is dark flower part to carry out even number
Knit, there is no dark knurling section to carry out odd number and choose to knit, weaved with reference to crossing heald device in jacquard weave；
Step 3) weaving using woven mode by hand, when for ground portion doup end, part organizine do not lift completely or with
Other organizine is connected it is necessary to the person of weaving by the comprehensive control of element so that weaving is clearly easy in organizine opening, to doup end group
The organizine that dark flower part does not twist is controlled while knitting beating, makes its flowering, lines full clear.
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| CN109881339B (en) * | 2019-04-18 | 2024-01-19 | 中原工学院 | Three-dimensional hank loom and hank weaving method thereof |
| CN113388943B (en) * | 2021-07-02 | 2023-03-31 | 浙江理工大学 | Lower opening mechanism and drafting method of fixed-twisting-group-free two-warp leno fabric |
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