CN103585096B - A kind of face of living essence and preparation method thereof that compacts - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention discloses an emulsion type revitalizing firming essence. Based on the antioxidant network system, the product adds active ingredients such as polysaccharide firming agent, oat β-glucan, hyaluronic acid, etc., and is compounded with red Sedum, Ganoderma and other Chinese herbal extracts have strong antioxidant, instant tightening and long-lasting moisturizing effects, and have a good repair effect on skin barrier damage. With continuous use of this essence, wrinkles will become significantly lighter and the skin will become smooth, firm, soft and white.

Description

A kind of revitalizing and firming essence and preparation method thereof

technical field

The present invention mainly relates to a revitalizing and firming essence, in particular to a revitalizing and firming essence and a preparation method thereof.

Background technique

In the mid-1950s, Harman established the free radical theory of aging, which believed that aging was caused by the harmful attack of free radicals (mainly oxygen free radicals) on cellular components. Free radicals refer to molecules, atoms or ions with unpaired electrons, which have active chemical properties and are easy to react with other nearby molecules. In most reactions, free radicals are prone to chain reactions: one free radical generates another free radical, and unpaired electrons are transferred from one molecule to another; when two free radicals meet and combine to form an electron pair , this chain reaction will end. Free radicals are the product of normal metabolism of the human body. Under normal physiological conditions, free radicals in the human body are in a dynamic balance of continuous production and elimination. A small amount of free radicals in the human body not only poses no threat to the human body, but can also help transmit energy that maintains vitality, eliminate inflammation, and decompose toxic substances. If the number of free radicals in the human body accumulates too much, it will cause lipid peroxidation, damage the cell structure, affect the normal metabolism of the human body, cause diseases, and accelerate the aging process of the human body.

Under normal circumstances, organisms have a complete set of antioxidant defense systems for eliminating free radicals in the body. They can directly eliminate free radicals or indirectly prevent further oxidation reactions to reduce the generation of more toxic free radicals and mid product. However, with the increase of age, the ability of the body to produce free radical scavengers, that is, antioxidants, gradually decreases, thereby weakening the defense ability against free radical damage, making the body tissues and organs easily damaged, accelerating the aging of the body, and triggering a series of diseases. In order to prevent the occurrence of such phenomena, antioxidants can be supplemented artificially, so as to achieve the purpose of preventing diseases and delaying aging.

Commonly used antioxidants include enzymatic antioxidants such as superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GSHP), coenzymes (CoQ ₁₀ ), etc., as well as non-enzyme antioxidants Antioxidants such as vitamin A (VA), vitamin C (VC), vitamin E (VE), β-carotene, α-lipoic acid (LA), glutathione (GSH), zinc, selenium and other substances. It can also be extracted and separated from plants or Chinese herbal medicines to obtain biologically active substances with the effect of scavenging free radicals, such as flavonoids, triterpenoids, curcuminoids, anthraquinones, polysaccharides, saponins and compounds containing phenolic hydroxyl structures, etc. , this kind of substance fully exerts the biological effect of antioxidant or free radical scavenger, thereby playing the role of protecting the body.

Antioxidant components often have antioxidative synergistic effects. Most theories believe that multiple antioxidants can repair and regenerate each other to form a redox cycle system, so that the antioxidant activity is significantly stronger than that of a single antioxidant. Based on this, scholars such as Dr. Lest Paker, a famous professor at the University of California, Berkeley, and the chairman of the International Free Radical Society, proposed free radical scavenger chain reaction and antioxidant network technology. They are clearly and clearly compared to the latest modern anti-aging model. It is considered revolutionary in the field of biomedicine and anti-aging. In this theory, there are two representative theories that deserve special attention: one is the antioxidant system or antioxidant network; the other is the antioxidant complex chain reaction or antioxidant complex chain.

In this antioxidant system, VC, VE, CoQ ₁₀ , LA and GSH are proposed as the essence and core of antioxidant network technology. The main reasons are: First, the body itself cannot produce VC and VE, and must be obtained from food. Second, although the body can produce CoQ ₁₀ , LA, and GSH by itself, their levels in the body decrease significantly with age. Third, these five antioxidants all have broad-spectrum and high-efficiency free radical scavenging capabilities, and they can complement and synergize with each other. Fourth, each of the five antioxidants has its own unique effect that is different from other antioxidants. Fifth, there are interactions between these five antioxidants in the body, and they can regenerate each other, so that each other enters the recycling, thereby forming a network, which greatly enhances the function of antioxidants. This network is the main line of defense against free radical-mediated toxic damage in organisms, and ultimately plays a special role in improving the body's disease resistance and delaying aging.

The antioxidant network system is an important umbrella to prevent premature aging and shortened lifespan of organisms. They work together to significantly improve the biological activity of each other, and can synergize to help organisms scavenge free radicals to maintain good antioxidant capacity. Balanced state. Reaction formulas (1)-(10) illustrate the principle that the five antioxidants in this antioxidant network system complement each other and synergistically scavenge free radicals. (1) In the formula, LOO is a lipoperoxy radical.

LOO·+VE→LOOH+VE·(1)

LOO+VC→LOOH+VC (2)

VE·+VC→VE+VC·(3)

VC·+VE→VC+VE·(4)

VE·+GSH→VE+GSSG(5)

VC+GSH→VC+GSSG(6)

GSSG+CoQ ₁₀ H ₂ →2GSH+CoQ ₁₀ (7)

LA+VC →VC+LA (8)

LA+VE·→VE+LA·(9)

LA·+H·→LA(10)

These 5 antioxidants can also be used in combination with other antioxidants, such as SOD, natural plant extracts, epidermal growth factor (EGF), natural hormones, skin moisturizers, skin nutrients and skin sunscreens, etc. , in order to play a positive role and complementary advantages, so that anti-aging cosmetics can play a more significant effect.

China is the birthplace of Chinese herbal medicine, and the application of Chinese herbal medicine in health care and beauty has a history of more than 3,000 years. Chinese herbal medicine extracts are used in cosmetics for moisturizing, whitening, sun protection, anti-oxidation, anti-aging, improving skin immunity, and improving skin health. At present, there are many cosmetics with Chinese herbal extracts added in the market, but there are few reports on the combination of Chinese herbal extracts and antioxidant network system applied to cosmetics.

Essence is the best in skin care products. Compared with lotion and cream cosmetics, it has exquisite ingredients, powerful efficacy and remarkable effect, and can play the role of "soothing the inside and soothing the outside". On the one hand, try to replenish the nutrients and moisture needed by the skin, strengthen the natural resistance of the skin, resist the aggression of the external environment, and restore the skin to normal as soon as possible; on the other hand, stimulate and accelerate the repair and renewal of cells, making the skin brighter and firmer . Essence contains the highest concentration of active ingredients among all cosmetics, and its texture is generally relatively thin, so it can be easily transmitted into the deep layer of the skin, better absorbed by the skin, and achieve twice the result with half the effort. The present invention screens the matrix formula based on the emulsification theory of cosmetics, uses the anti-oxidation network system theory and the Chinese medicine compatibility theory to guide the compounding of active ingredients, adds various antioxidants, skin moisturizers, Chinese herbal medicine extracts and other active ingredients, and develops Essence with strong antioxidant, moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, and firming effects; at the same time, the sensory and physical and chemical indicators, moisture retention, and antioxidant properties of the essence were tested, and the repair effect of skin barrier damage and long-term trial results Evaluate the effect.

Contents of the invention

The object of the present invention is to provide a kind of skin-rejuvenating and firming essence and a preparation method thereof.

The present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions:

A kind of revitalizing and firming essence, the formula of said revitalizing and firming essence is:

A preparation method of a revitalizing and firming essence, comprising the following steps:

Put the above phases A and B in a water bath at 75-80°C and stir for 25-30 minutes to dissolve the solids; add phase C to phase A, and add phase B while stirring; quickly stir for 25-30 minutes and then cool down When cooling to 40-45°C, add phase D, phase E, and phase F respectively and stir until uniform; stop stirring when the temperature drops to 30-35°C, and discharge the material to obtain the active and firming essence.

The invention relates to a preparation method of a revitalizing and firming essence. During the preparation process, in order to keep the total amount of finished products at 100 g, an appropriate amount of distilled water can be added while cooling.

The advantages of the present invention are:

The antioxidant network system is used in the formula, and a variety of other antioxidants are added to exert the synergistic effect of antioxidant; polysaccharide firming agent and various moisturizing agents are added to make the product have instant lifting, firming and long-lasting effects Moisturizing effect; the emulsified matrix formula is selected as the carrier to facilitate the dissolution of various water-soluble and fat-soluble active ingredients; some active ingredients use nanoemulsion and microcapsule technology, which is not only conducive to the transmission of active ingredients and skin absorption, but also increases the product quality. The stability; the formula does not contain alcohol, fragrance, parabens, mild and non-irritating.

The vitamin C ethyl ether in the formula of the present invention is a vitamin C derivative that does not affect biological activity and does not change color in the true sense. After entering the skin, it is decomposed by enzymes to play the role of VC; it can effectively inhibit the synthesis of melanocytes and prevent It can also improve skin luster, restore skin cell activity, promote collagen formation, and prevent skin aging. Vitamin E acetate is a stable derivative of VE, which breaks down into VE after penetrating into the skin, thereby producing antioxidant activity and protecting the skin from free radical damage; it can also promote skin metabolism, improve skin elasticity, and prevent pigmentation Wait. Glutathione not only has antioxidant properties, but also can affect skin cell tyrosinase activity, inhibit melanin production, and prevent skin pigmentation. Vitamin A palmitate has anti-aging, anti-cancer and other effects. Resveratrol can scavenge free radicals, resist oxidation, anti-aging, inhibit the activity of intracellular tyrosinase, and prevent the formation of melanin. Alpha Lipoic Acid has strong antioxidant properties, is both water-soluble and fat-soluble, and is easily absorbed by the skin. It has outstanding effects on dark circles, wrinkles and spots, and can also improve dull skin and refine pores. Coenzyme Q ₁₀ can effectively scavenge free radicals, prevent skin aging, promote skin metabolism, reduce wrinkles, and have anti-pigmentation effects. The nanoemulsion of coenzyme Q10 and lipoic acid is selected to be added in the formula, which has small particle size, good skin affinity and a closed effect on the skin, which can effectively promote the penetration of active components on the skin and improve the absorption of active substances.

Niacinamide (vitamin B ₃ ) can effectively inhibit the production of melanocytes and whiten the skin. Panthenol, also known as provitamin B ₅ , is a deeply penetrating moisturizer that can stimulate the growth of epithelial cells, promote wound healing, and play an anti-inflammatory role. Oat β-glucan has many functions such as moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, promoting wound healing, repairing sun damage, reducing scars, anti-allergy and anti-inflammation. Sodium hyaluronate is known as the most ideal moisturizer, it can keep moisturizing for a long time, make the skin soft and smooth; it can also promote the absorption of other active ingredients and nutrients, improve the nutrition metabolism of the skin, and provide the skin with collagen and elastic fibers. Synthetic provides a favorable environment to reduce the signs of aging wrinkles and prevent aging. Polysaccharide Firming Agent has an instant smoothing and lifting effect, making the skin sculpted and firmed.

Ganoderma lucidum, ginseng, astragalus, angelica, and rhodiola belong to tonic Chinese medicines. Ganoderma lucidum nourishes the spleen and qi, ginseng nourishes the spleen and lung, astragalus nourishes qi and solidifies the surface, angelica promotes blood and blood, and rhodiola promotes blood to stop bleeding. According to the compatibility theory of traditional Chinese medicine, the compatibility of Ganoderma lucidum with ginseng, astragalus, and angelica has the effect of increasing qi and nourishing blood. Added as active ingredients in cosmetics, they also have different effects: Ganoderma lucidum and ginseng extracts have various effects such as anti-oxidation, delaying skin aging, and improving skin immunity; Astragalus extract can promote the synthesis of collagen and improve skin. Elasticity; Angelica extract can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and has a certain whitening effect; Rhodiola rosea extract has strong antioxidant properties and can resist the damage of various free radicals to the skin.

The sensory and physical and chemical indicators of the essence of the present invention are all in line with the standard requirements of my country's emollient lotion industry. It has multiple functions such as anti-oxidation, moisturizing, firming, and depigmentation. It has a good repair effect on skin barrier damage. With the essence, wrinkles are obviously lightened, and the skin becomes moist, firm, fair and tender.

Description of drawings

Figure 1 is a graph showing the relationship between the moisture absorption rate and time of the Vitality Firming Essence;

Figure 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the number of people and time for each index to return to the level before the injury;

Fig. 3 is a statistical chart of the skin trial effect of the revitalizing and firming essence;

Figure 4 is a comparison of skin conditions before and after product trial, a is before trial, b is after trial.

detailed description

Example 1

A kind of revitalizing and firming essence, the formula of said revitalizing and firming essence is:

A preparation method of a revitalizing and firming essence, comprising the following steps:

Put the above phases A and B in a water bath at 75-80°C and stir for 25-30 minutes to dissolve the solids; add phase C to phase A, and add phase B while stirring; quickly stir for 25-30 minutes and then cool down When cooling to 40-45°C, add phase D, phase E, and phase F respectively and stir until uniform; stop stirring when the temperature drops to 30-35°C, and discharge the material to obtain the active and firming essence.

Performance Testing

Sensory performance evaluation

Take the Vitality Firming Essence at room temperature and under direct sunlight to visually observe whether the particles are fine and whether the color is uniform; use the sense of smell to identify whether the smell is pure.

pH test

Weigh 3.0g of the sample of Vitality Firming Essence, put it into a small beaker filled with 30mL of water, and heat to dissolve at 40°C. Measure the pH value of the essence water solution with a calibrated pH meter.

centrifuge experiment

Put the sample of Vitality Firming Essence into a 10mL centrifuge tube, centrifuge at 3000r/min for 30min, and observe whether there is stratification.

Heat resistance and cold resistance test

Place the samples of the Revitalizing Firming Essence in a constant temperature oven at 40°C and in the freezer of a refrigerator at -10°C for 24 hours, then take them out, and observe whether there is stratification, precipitation or water out after returning to room temperature.

Antioxidant Test

Weigh 1.00g of Vitality Firming Essence, dissolve it in distilled water and transfer it to a 10mL volumetric flask to constant volume. This was used as the original solution for dilution to prepare a sample solution with a mass concentration of 2.00×10 ^-3 g/mL for antioxidant test.

(1) Scavenging rate for DPPH free radicals

Take the above sample solution and 3 mL of DPPH·dehydrated ethanol solution with a concentration of 2.00×10 ^-4 mol/L and add them into the same stoppered test tube, shake well, place in the dark for 30 min, and use UV-Vis spectrophotometry Measure the absorbance A _i1 of the mixed solution at 517nm, and measure the absorbance A ₀₁ of 3mL of each extractant mixed with 3mLDPPH solution and the absorbance A _j1 of 3mL sample solution mixed with 3mL absolute ethanol at the same time, and calculate the clearance rate according to the formula P1 _:

P ₁ ＝[1－(A _i1 －A _j1 )/A ₀₁ ]×100%

(2) The scavenging rate of OH free radicals

Take 2mL of the salicylic acid solution, FeSO ₄ solution and diluted sample solution with a concentration of 1.00×10 ^-2 mol/L and add them into the same stoppered test tube, then add 2mL of the substance with a concentration of 8.80×10 ^{- 2} mol/L H ₂ O ₂ solution, start the reaction after shaking well, react in 37°C water bath for 30min, measure the absorbance A _i2 at 510nm; measure the absorbance A _j2 with 2mL distilled water instead of salicylic acid solution; use 2mL distilled water The absorbance A ₀₂ is measured instead of the sample solution. Calculate the clearance rate P ₂ according to the formula:

P ₂ =[1－(A _i2 －A _j2 )/A ₀₂ ]×100%

(3) The scavenging rate of O ₂ ^̊ free radicals

Take 5 mL of Tris-HCl buffer solution with a pH of 8.2 in a stoppered test tube, preheat it in a water bath at 25°C for 20 minutes, then add 2 mL of sample solution and 0.5 mL of the substance in sequence, the concentration of which is 5.00×10 ^-3 mol/L Triphenol hydrochloric acid solution, shake immediately, react in 25 ℃ water bath for 4min, immediately measure its absorbance A _i3 at 320nm; use 0.5mL of 1.00×10 ^-2 mol/L HCl solution instead of pyrogallol hydrochloric acid solution, measure Absorbance A _j3 ; use 2mL of distilled water instead of the above different sample solutions to measure the absorbance A ₀₃ . Calculate the clearance rate P ₃ according to the formula:

P ₃ =[1－(A _i3 －A _j3 )/A ₀₃ ]×100%

Moisture Absorption Test

Weigh 5.00g of Vitality Firming Essence, put it in a weighing bottle with a diameter of 4cm, place it in an environment with a relative humidity of 43% and 75% at room temperature for 8 hours, weigh and record the weight of each sample every 1 hour Changes, calculate the moisture absorption rate.

Among them, m _n is the mass of the sample after being placed for n hours, g; m ₀ is the mass of the sample to be tested before being placed, in g.

skin test

(1) Repair effect test on skin barrier damage

Select 20 people as testers and divide them into 2 groups equally. Take the 3×3cm ² inside of the arm as the trial site, wash it, and test it with a skin tester. After the test, wipe it with 50% ethanol solution for 5 minutes. The first group of testers put the sample in the room for 20 minutes, then tested it with a skin tester, and then tested it every 1 hour to observe the trial effect. The second group of testers wiped with 50% ethanol solution without any treatment, and tested once every 1 hour to observe the natural repair effect.

(2) Long-term skin test

20 people were selected as testers, with an average age of 35 years old. They tried the Revitalizing Firming Essence on their faces. They used it once a day in the morning and evening for 42 days. They tested it with a skin tester every other week to observe the trial effect.

Test Results

Measurement results of sensory and physical and chemical indicators

Antioxidant

The scavenging rates of DPPH·, ·OH and ·O ₂ ^̊ three free radicals of the active and firming essence were 60.4%, 81.3%, and 70.3% respectively at a mass concentration of 2.00×10 ^-3 g/mL, indicating that the active Yan Firming Essence has strong antioxidant properties;

Moisturizing properties of the Revitalizing Serum

Figure 1 is a graph showing the relationship between moisturizing rate and time when the relative humidity is 43% and 75% respectively at room temperature. It can be seen that at room temperature, when the relative humidity is 75%, the moisture absorption rate of the Vitalizing Essence drops slowly, and it is only -0.43% after 8 hours; when the relative humidity is 43%, the moisture absorption rate of the Vitalizing Essence is relatively low. When the relative humidity is 75%, it drops quickly, but it is only -0.61%. It can be seen that the moisturizing effect of the revitalizing and firming essence is better.

Repair effect test on skin barrier damage

Ethanol can partially dissolve the lipid components of the stratum corneum, destroy the original structure, and cause damage to the barrier function, mainly manifested as a decrease in skin oil, moisture, elasticity, and collagen content. Figure 2 is a graph showing the relationship between the number of people and time for each index to return to the pre-injury level after the first group of subjects applied the Vitality Firming Essence to the damaged area. After smearing, the oil content of 6 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury, and the oil content of all the subjects returned to the normal level before the injury after 1 hour; the moisture content of 7 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury after smearing, After 2 hours, the water content of all subjects returned to the normal level before the injury; after smearing, the skin elasticity of 3 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury, and after 8 hours, the skin elasticity of 7 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury; After that, the collagen content of 4 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury, and the collagen content of 6 subjects returned to the normal level before the injury 8 hours later. The second group of subjects recovered naturally, and after 8 hours, 7, 4, 2, and 2 people recovered their oil content, water content, elasticity, and collagen content to the level before the injury. It can be seen that after applying the Revitalizing Essence, the damaged skin has been repaired. The oil and water content of all subjects can return to the normal level before the injury in a short period of time, and the skin elasticity and collagen content have recovered. They are all above 6 people, which is significantly higher than the natural repair effect, which shows that the repair effect of the revitalizing and firming essence on the skin barrier damage is more significant.

long-term skin test

With age, the moisture content, elasticity, and collagen fiber content of human skin will continue to decline, and the lack of water will destroy the water-oil balance of the skin, causing the skin to secrete more oil, and the pigment content will increase with age. Growth, sunlight exposure, etc., will also gradually increase. Test the moisture, oil, elasticity, collagen and pigment content in the skin of the test subjects before and after trying the Revitalizing Essence. The number of days of trial is taken as the abscissa, and the number of people with changes in various skin indicators is drawn as the ordinate. It can be seen from Figure 3 that after the 20 test subjects tried the Vitality Firming Essence, the number of people with changes in each index. With the prolongation of the trial days, the number of subjects whose moisture, elasticity, and collagen content increased gradually increased. After 42 days, the number of subjects who had improved these three indicators were 18, 12, and 14 respectively; while the oil and pigment contents increased with the trial days. After 42 days, the number of these two indicators decreased by 17 and 10 respectively compared with before the trial. 70% of the test subjects responded that they could obviously feel the skin changes in the first week of the trial. After 42 days of continuous trial, 85% of the subjects could see obvious changes in the skin. Figure 4 is a comparison chart of the skin condition of a 44-year-old subject with dry skin before and after 42 days of trial. It can be seen that after 42 days of trial, the skin texture has become significantly lighter, and the skin has become white and bright. The test results show that after continuous trial of the Vitality Firming Essence, the wrinkles are obviously lightened, and the skin becomes hydrated, fair, soft and elastic.

Claims (3)

1. the face of the living essence that compacts, is characterized in that the compact formula of essence of described face alive is:

2. the face alive as claimed in claim 1 preparation method for essence of compacting, is characterized in that comprisingFollowing steps:

Above-mentioned A phase and B are placed in respectively to 75-80 DEG C of water-bath mutually and stir 25-30min, make decorating film moltenSeparate; C is added to A phase, while stirring B is added to; After rapid stirring 25-30min, lower the temperature; ColdBut, during to 40-45 DEG C, respectively D phase, E phase and F are added to and are stirred to evenly; Temperature is down to 30-35 DEG CIn time, stops stirring, and discharging, obtains the described face alive essence that compacts.

3. a kind of face of living according to claim 2 preparation method of essence of compacting, is characterized in thatIn preparation process, for making manufactured goods total amount remain 100g, cooling time, can add appropriate distilled water.