CDF1321CM PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN MAKING AND

GRADING
(THEORY)
Class: B.Sc. Costume Design Semester: I Credits: 3 Hours per week: 4 hrs. Total hours: 60 hrs.
and Fashion
LOs LEARNING OBJECTIVES
To enable the students to
LO1 define the use of body measurement for pattern making
LO2 explain various methods and types of patterns
LO3 relate the dart manipulation and fitting for basic bodice
LO4 describe pattern alteration and grading
LO5 illustrate layouts for different patterns according to fabric design

COURSE CONTENT:
UNIT I: BODY MEASUREMENT​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ 12 hrs.
Body measurement – importance, preparing for measuring – lady’s measurements – boy’s and
men’s measurements – standardizing body measurements – importance – techniques used –
various standards used worldwide – relative length and girth measures in ladies and
gentlemen – preparation of fabric for cutting – importance of grain in cutting and construction –
steps in preparing the fabric for cutting.
UNIT II: PATTERN MAKING​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ 12 hrs.
Pattern Making – method of pattern making – drafting and draping – merits and demerits –
types of paper patterns – patterns for personal measurements and commercial patterns –
principles of pattern drafting – pattern details – steps in drafting basic bodice front and back
and sleeve.
UNIT III: DART MANIPULATION AND FITTING​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ 12 hrs.
Styles created by shifting of blouse darts – adding fullness to the bodice – converting darts to
seam and partial yokes and incorporating darts in to seams forming yokes – fitting – standards
of a good fit – steps in preparing a blouse for fitting – checking the fit of a blouse – solving
fitting problems in a blouse – fitting techniques – introduction to 3D body scanning in pattern
making and fitting.
UNIT IV: PATTERN ALTERATION​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ 12 hrs.
Pattern alteration – importance of altering patterns – general principles for pattern alteration –
 common pattern alteration in different garment for men and women – pattern grading –
definition – principles of pattern grading – types – manual – master grades – basic front – basic
back – basic sleeve – basic collar.
UNIT V: PATTERN LAYOUT​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​ 12 hrs.
Pattern Layout – definition – purpose – rules in layout – types of layouts – layout for length
wise striped designs – fabric with bold design – asymmetric designs – one way designs –
procedure for insufficient fabric – fabric cutting – transferring pattern marking – stay stitching –
ease stitching.
TEXTBOOK(S):
Helen Joseph, (2013). Pattern Making for Fashion Design, (5th ed.), Peason Educations, New
Delhi: Print.
Mary Mathews, (2015). Practical Clothing Construction Part I and Part – II, Chennai: Cosmic
Press. Print. Chapter: 1, 2,3,7 and 12
REFERENCE BOOK(S):
Juvekar M.B., (1982). Easy Cutting, Dadar: Commercial Tailors Corporation Pvt. Ltd., Print.
Mathews M., (1986). Practical Clothing, Chennai: Cosmic Press. Print.
Subramaniam T., (2009). Dress Making, Chennai: New Horizon Media Pvt. Ltd., Print.
Zarapkar K.R., (2012). Zarapker, System of Cutting, Mumbai: Navneet Publications Ltd., Print.
WEB RESOURCE(S):
Video(s):
Cen Hontomen. (2020, May 5) How to Make Basic Bodice Block × Pattern Drafting for
Beginners × Sewing Tutorial. Retrieved from https://youtu.be/Pn6264mJwWs. CC BY license.
Jenni Thorman. (2019, July 9) Dart Manipulation. Retrieved from
https://youtu.be/PAxhIbrZP_U. CC BY license.
COs COURSE OUTCOMES COGNITIVE LEVEL
On successful completion of the course, the student will be able to
CO1 relate body measurement to pattern making K1 Remember
CO2 interpret the pattern making technique K2 Understand
identify the fitting problems and develop styles using dart K2 Understand
CO3
manipulation
CO4 explain efficient alteration and grading techniques K2 Understand
CO5 develop layouts for different garments K3 Apply
MAPPING: COs cognitive level and mapping with PSOs
CDF1321CM PRINCIPLES OF PATTERN MAKING AND GRADING
PSO
CO
1 2 3 4 5
CO1 2 2 3 3 2
CO2 2 2 3 3 2
CO3 3 2 3 3 2
CO4 2 2 3 3 3
CO5 2 2 3 3 2
Strongly Correlated (3), Moderately Correlated (2), Weakly Correlated (1)