Chapter 1

Introduction to pattern development, manual

and computerized pattern development,
Marker making -Introduction, mini marker and
marker plan development, digitizer, plotter,
and scanner
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
Pattern

 In sewing and fashion design, A pattern is a

template from which part of a garment is
traced onto the fabric before being cut out
and assembled; patterns are usually made of
paper. Pattern Making is a blueprint for the
garment, on the basis of which the fabric is
cut.
 It is the technical drawing or drafting of a
garment.
Pattern development

 Pattern development is the process of

creating a blueprint of your garment.
 A pattern is used as a template to cut out
fabric that matches the required
specifications to sew a garment. It factors in
the type of fabric, the intended fit on the
wearer, and any trims that will be used. The
pattern is used to make 2D fabric sit properly
on a 3D body.
 IMPORTANCE OF PATTERN MAKING

 It makes sewing easy and faster

 It is economical in terms of fabric Saving.
 It helps to analyze the causes of mistakes during
sewing intelligently and proper correction before
cutting out.
 It gives accurate fit when done correctly.
 It helps one to design garments that are unique and
original.
 Old garments can be restyled and remodeled.
 Patterns can always be used again in future.
Methods of Pattern Making

Pattern making involves three methods-

 Drafting
 Draping
 Flat paper patternmaking
 Manual & Computerized Pattern
Making
The manual method of making patterns involves drafting each panel onto cardboard before
cutting by hand. Each of these panels is then placed over the material the garment will be
made from and cut again. The development of a garment comprises of different process.

Manual pattern cutting is the use of paper, pencil and a ruler, and digital is the use of a
computer software. Flat pattern cutting is drafted on to paper either from scratch using
specific measurements, or from a basic block. A digital pattern can be made in a few
ways.

Creating a flat pattern using CAD is the easiest and most advanced of all design
techniques once one become familiar with the system one is working with. Many new
design entrepreneurs use a computer to relieve some of the work required to develop a
new style.
Tools required for pattern making

The flat pattern is done on the flat, as the name implies. Pattern paper, a
French curve, a straight ruler, and a pencil are used to create manual flat
patterns. CAD software is used to create digital flat patterns. The drafting
methods for creating flat patterns are the same whether you do it digitally or
by hand.
Pattern Making Process
• Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel
product.
• Consider the design details.
• Select the materials (fabrication and trims)
• Construct the sample (prototype)
• Fit, revise and finalize the sample
• Create an apparel technical design pack
• Prepare pattern for mass production
Creating a Pattern

pattern making methods:

 Flat pattern
 Commercial patterns
 Drafting
 Reversed Engineered
 Draping
Flat pattern

 It is a design process in which basic blocks are

used to create a pattern for new styles. The
sloper is traced then set aside. The trace copy
is transferred into a new style using one or
more pattern techniques. E.g slash and
spred , adding fullness, pivoting etc
 A sloper is a pattern that has no seam
allowance or style lines. From the sloper a
myriad of garment styles can be generated.
 Flat pattern technique is a method of
manipulating the pattern while the pattern is
laid flat on the table. Pattern manipulation is
a common word applied to the act of slashing
and spreading or pivoting a pattern section to
alter its original shape.
Commercial patterns

 They are bought paper patterns that come in

an envelope with the style and measurement
at the back of the envelope. Standardizes
body measurements are used in the making
the patterns for different garments design
and offered for sale. They are normally made
by well-known and reliable firms. They came
in different style, sizes, and manufactures.
Information on instruction sheet

 Pattern marking and their meanings

 Layout and cutting out instructions
 Diagrams to guide one in sewing
 Suggested sewing techniques and their
instructions
 General sewing instructions
Information on packages/envelope

 Style of dress(front and back view)

 Brand name of pattern
 Pattern number or catalogue number
 Size of pattern
 Accessories
 Number of patterns pieces
 Suggesting fabrics to use
 Amount of fabrics needed for style
 Style number
 Standard measurments
 Description of the garment
Some of the brands for commercial
patterns
 Simplicity
 Butterick
 Style
 Mc calls
 Vogue
 Easy
 Burda
Advantages of commercial patterns

 It saves time and energy

 Patterns are available in different figures.
 Good patterns are accurate and therefore
good fitting is likely to be achieved.
 If the instructions are carefully followed a
satisfactory garment can be made.
 Pattern can be used by inexperienced
dressmakers.
 It can be used for commercial purpose.
Disadvantages of commercial
patterns
 They are expensive
 It cannot be used by those who cannot read
and write
 It cannot be used by those who cannot
understand instructions given over there.
 You may not get your desired style.
Drafting
 It is a design process that involves taking
measurements from the person’s body adding ease
to these measurements and then transferring it
onto paper by using ruler, scissors, tape measure,
tracing wheel etc
 When accurate measurements are used the pattern
fits very well. Instructions are followed step by step
in order to obtain the pattern. All pattern markings
are put on pattern to make the pieces meaningful.
Advantages drafting patterns

 It is economic in terms of fabric

 It increases ability to new things
 It can be kept for future use
 When done accurately the designer can
obtain a good fit.
Disadvantages drafting patterns

 It wastes time.
 It is difficult to work if one lacks the
techniques
Draping
 Draping is done by manually manipulating the fabric on a
dress form so that it looks the way you want. To get started,
you’ll need a dress form, fabric (this can be your actual fabric
or a less expensive fabric with similar weight and drape
qualities), pins, pattern paper, a French curve, and a straight
ruler. The fabric is wrapped around the form until it looks the
way that you want and then marked while still on the form.
The fabric is then removed and spread flat. Lines are cleaned
up using a French curve and ruler. The patterns are then
transferred from the fabric onto pattern paper. You would
then add seam allowance, notches or other necessary
markings, and true your patterns.
Advantages of draping

 One can design with the individual figure in

mind
 It is the most suitable way for draped styles
 It is easier to obtain a pattern in this form for
difficult figurs. Eg-slopping shoulder
 Draping is the easiest way to develop
pattern.
Disadvantages of draping

 It is very expensive
 It is not good for beginners
 It is slower than flat patterns
 Large paper is needed for obtaining the
pattern
 It cannot be used when the wearer is far
away.
Reverse Engineering a Pattern

 Itis taking pattern from an existing garment

or article. It is used when you want to repeat
the design. This is done by unpicking a dress
and then placing it on a fabric after ironing it
out andPatterns are created by
deconstructing an existing garment. It is
taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern
pieces are created.
Advantages of reverse engineering
pattern
 It is inexpensive as compared to draping
 Right style is obtained
 It saves time
 It is economical
 Old articles with interesting style can be
obtained
 Old garments are not wasted
Disadvantages of reverse engineering
pattern
 Pieces of the original or the existing garment
can be misplaced
 It is difficult to fix the parts to get the style
sometimes
Freehand cutting

 It is technique for individual’s body

measurements to cut garments/articles
directly on fabrics. This cutting process is
usually used by people with experience in
garment cutting for desired styles.
Selecting The Materials and Costing

 Once a design is created and the pattern is

engineered, the materials (fabrication and
trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail
when sourcing materials.) Other variables may
include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs
etc.
 Preliminary costing is completed to insure
profitability.
 Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design
details, and labor costs.
Construct the Sample

 Sample garments (prototypes) are created by

sample makers.
 Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of
sewing construction techniques.
 They work closely to insure fit and design
integrity.
 Fashion fabric is used to create a sample
garment.
FIT, REVISE, AND FINALIZE THE
PATTERN
 Use a mannequin or a live model to check the
fit and styling of the sample garment.
 Revise garment fit until it is correct.

Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com

Apparel Design Technical Pack
 The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are
created after the sample garment has been finalized.

 The tech packs are specific information about the

design and should include the following:

1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views.

Should include topstitching, pocket and button
placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem
and band widths, label placement etc.
Apparel Design Technical Pack
 2. Directions for any special fabric direction or
matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc.
 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or
standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and
color.
 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly
indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining
fabrics.
 5. Measurement details.
 6. Care Instructions for labeling
 7. Color details and season information
 Sample of an Apparel Design
Technical Pack
Date-
Season-
Designer-
Style #-
Technical Sketch-
Body Measurements include design and
construction details
Hardware and
Trim Care Label Information
Fabrication and
Color

Swatch of Fabrics Comments

Prepare Pattern For Mass Production

 Once a sample pattern has been approved for

size, costing, availability of materials, and
potential profit; it is used for production
samples and samples for sales promotion.
 The approved pattern is graded into smaller
and larger sizes usually by computer but can
be done by hand.
 Final fabric selections and trims are ordered
by suppliers.
 Computerized pattern development
 At most large manufacturers, patterns are made on a computer with computer-
aided design (CAD) systems, the pattern maker manipulating small graphic
patterns on the computer screen with a hand-held control device.

Pattern Making Software in 2022

 Adobe Textile Designer - Plugin for Photoshop.
 TUKAcad - Point-based system.
 FREE Wild Things - With design planning tool.
 PatternSmith - Wide range of templates.
 Inkscape - Vector drawing software.
 Modaris Quick Estimate - For 3D prototyping.
 Optitex - 2D and 3D patterns.
Advantages

 Speed
 Accuracy
 Data storage, security & management
 Backup
 Least fabric wastage.
 Low production cost.
 What is Marker
 Marker is a thin paper which contains all the necessary pattern
pieces for all sizes for a particular style of garments. It is
made just before cutting and its purpose is to minimize the
wastages. The width of the marker is equal to the width of the
fabric and it should not be greater than the width of the fabric,
i.e. fabric width is greater than or equal to marker width. The
pattern pieces should be placed very carefully in such a way
that it would minimize wastages. Different techniques are
used in marker making to minimize the wastages.
 A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern
pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one
spread.
What is Marker Making?

 Marker making is the process of determining a most

efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric
and distribution of sizes .Factories those don’t have
a CAD system perform this process manually.
 In manual marker making to make an efficient
marker one need time, skill and concentration.
Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD
systems which give accuracy, increase control over
variables and reduces the time required in making
markers.
What is Marker efficiency

 Marker efficiency is the measure of how

compact the arranged of patterns on a
marker is
 The formula to calculate marker efficiency
is :
Marker Efficiency = (Area of pattern pieces
on the marker)/( Total area of marker)*100
Techniques of Marker Making

A. Manual Method
The man performs it by himself using hands. If is
a conventional system that requires more time.
 1. Full size marker: Full size marker is made for
production purpose.
 2. Miniature type marker: Miniature type
marker is sometime made and its purposes are
to plan or schedule and learn or study i.e. for
planning and learning purposes.
Different Methods of Marker Making:

 Different Techniques of Marker Making:

 There are two different methods of marker making followed in
the apparel industry. Those are-
 (a) Manual method,
 (b) Computerized method.
 Both marker making techniques have discussed below:
 (a) Manual method:
 The manual method can be done in two ways:
 Marker planning with a full-size pattern,
 Marker with the minimized pattern.
1. Marker planning with the full-size pattern:
According to the standard measurement, all the patterns are in full dimension here. At first, all the hard patterns are placed on the
paper and then those patterns are marked by turning in various directions to reduce the fabric usages.
Here the tables, on which the markers are placed, arranged in a way so that they do not tilt. The vacuum system is arranged here
under the table for suction. This method is suitable for reducing the marker length.

2. Marker with the minimized pattern:

Here, full-sized patterns are reduced 1/5 part by a pantograph, and the patterns are made by hard paper or plastic sheet.
Marker is planned here with the small pattern pieces and after making, snaps are taken by using the camera. Planimeter is
used here to measure the covered area of the pattern lies in the marker. In the case of this method, marker efficiency is
determined by calculating the marker area and fabric area.
(b) Computerized method:
The computerized method can be performed in two ways:
1.Automatic marker making,
2.Interactive method.

The above two computerized marker making method has discussed in the below:
1. Automatic marker making:
It is the most efficient marker making system. Here, the computer makes the marker itself according to the command given
to the computer. Small pattern pieces are displayed on a computer screen but full size in computer memory. Though it is a
time-consuming method modern automatic marker-making system overcomes that problem of time and needs only two
minutes to make a marker.
2. Interactive method:
The interactive marker making method is a common process where the operator plans markers by connecting directly with
the system through a computer screen. Here, all the pattern pieces are displayed at the top of the screen in miniature form.
Those are dragged and draped to the pre-determined place by a data pen or tablet. It is less efficient and less time required
than the automatic marker making system.
B. Computerized marker making

This is the best method as it gives higher marker efficiency. In this

method, the pattern size, pattern pieces, grade rule, screening are
fed to the computer and set in the memory which produces maker
automatically. This method normally is a part of an integrated system
which includes:
 1. Digitizing system: In this system, the working patterns are
placed on to the digitizing board/table, then clicking according to
the pattern dimensions.
 2. Scanning system: Scanner is one kind of machine like photo
copier. The working patterns are placed on to the glass of the
scanner and then marker is made for a selected size.
Difference between manual and computerized method of
marker making

Manual method Computerized method

Suitable for small amount of production. Used for large scale of production.

Marker efficiency is lower. Marker efficiency is Higher

Initial investment is not high. Initial investment is Higher

It is usually a slower method. Quicker method

Production cost is high. Low

Fabric wastage is high. Low

Can not be copied as and when wish. Can be copied as and when desired.
Mini marker

 When a scaled down version of a marker is

printed on an A4 or A3 paper it is called a Mini
marker. Mini marker is used to analyze the
marker by production staff since not
everyone has access to CAD Systems and a
physical reference is convenient on
production floor.
Digitizer

 In Apparel garment industry pattern

digitizing is the process in which sewing
patterns made of paper, cardboard or plastic
get scanned into a computer CAD system to
preserve its original design and shape and for
further use and editing purposes.
Plotter

A plotter is a printer that interprets

commands from a computer to make line
drawings on paper with one or more
automated pens. Unlike a regular printer, a
plotter can draw continuous point-to-point
lines directly from vector graphic files or
commands.
 Scanner

 Body scanning provides one of the most

efficient tools for recording information of
the human body to support the development
of body worn products.
 Body scanning has the possibility to provide
data about the body that can better inform
the drafting of garment pattern blocks.