MELROSE VEST
A sleeveless v-neck pullover
Featuring Julie Hoover Studio Blend No. 1 yarn
MELROSE VEST Page 2
PATTERN SPECS CONSTRUCTION NOTES
Sizes • Vest is worked flat in pieces from the bottom up and sewn
38½ (43, 47¼, 51¾, 56, 60¼, 64¾, 69)" / 98 (109, 120, 131.5, 142, together, using a circular needle to accommodate the large
153, 164.5, 175.5) cm finished chest circumference number of stitches. Neckband is worked flat from picked-up
stitches. Armbands are worked circularly from picked-up
40¾ (45, 49½, 53¾, 58¼, 62½, 67, 71¼)" / 103.5 (114.5, 125.5, 136.5, stitches.
148, 159, 170, 181) cm finished hip circumference
• A 1-stitch slipped selvedge is worked at each side edge, as
Model wearing size 43" / 109 cm with + 9" / 23 cm ease in chest shown in {brackets}. On RS rows, slip stitch knitwise with yarn
and + 9" / 23 cm ease in hips in back. On WS rows, slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front.
• For best results, use the Sloped Bind Off Method (see Special
Yarn
Techniques) for neckline and shoulder shaping.
Julie Hoover Studio Blend No. 1
50% baby cashmere, 50% baby yak
149.8 yards / 137 meters per 50 g skein
STITCH PATTERNS
6 (6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins
805 (895, 1005, 1045, 1180, 1195, 1335, 1385) yards / 736 (818, 919, 2x2 Flat Ribbing
956, 1079, 1093, 1221, 1266) meters (multiple of 4 stitches +2; 2-row repeat)
Sample photographed in color Marble Tweed Row 1 (RS): {Slip 1} (see Construction Notes), knit 1, *purl 2, knit 2;
repeat from * to end.
Gauge Row 2 (WS): {Slip 1}, purl 1, *knit 2, purl 2; repeat from * to end.
22 stitches and 31 rows = 4" / 10 cm in stockinette stitch with
Needle A, after blocking Repeat Rows 1 & 2 for pattern.
Needle A (Main Fabric) 2x2 Circular Ribbing
One 24" / 60 cm circular needle (multiple of 4 stitches; 1-round repeat)
US 5 / 3.75 mm or size needed to obtain gauge listed
Round 1 (RS): Knit 1, *purl 2, knit 2; repeat from * to last 3 stitches,
Needle B (for Ribbing) purl 2, knit 1.
One each 16" / 40 cm and 24" / 60 cm circular needles one size
Repeat Round 1 for pattern.
smaller than Needle A
US 4 / 3.5 mm
Needle C (for Neckband)
BACK
One 24" / 60 cm circular needle two sizes smaller than Needle A Using 24" / 60 cm Needle B, CO 114 (126, 138, 150, 162, 174,
US 3 / 3.25 mm 186, 198) stitches using the following method (or your preferred
method for 2x2 ribbing):
Other Materials Make a slipknot and place on needle (1 stitch cast on), CO 1 stitch
Waste yarn or stitch holder, spare 24" / 60 cm circular needle using Long-Tail Cast On, *CO 2 stitches using Long-Tail Purl Cast
(size US 0–1 / 2.0–2.25 mm), stitch marker, blunt tapestry needle, On (see Special Techniques), CO 2 stitches using Long-Tail Cast
blocking wires & T-pins (optional but recommended) On; repeat from * until required number of stitches have been
cast on. Do not join.
Skill Level
3 of 5 Hem Ribbing
Beginning and ending with a WS row, work in 2x2 Flat Ribbing
(see Stitch Patterns) until piece measures approximately 3" / 7.5
cm from CO edge (take measurement with fabric stretched to
schematic width).
Establish Main Fabric
Switch to Needle A.
Next Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit to end.
Next Row (WS): {Slip 1}, purl to end.
Work 2 rows even as established.
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MELROSE VEST Page 3
Shape Sides Right Shoulder
Side Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, k2tog, knit to last 5 With WS facing, return 29 (31, 32, 33, 34, 37, 39, 42) held Right
stitches, SSK, knit 3. (2 stitches decreased) Shoulder stitches to Needle A and rejoin yarn at neck edge.
Repeat the Side Decrease Row every 30th (30th, 30th, 32nd, 32nd, At the beginning of WS rows, BO 7 stitches once, then BO 5
32nd, 34th, 34th) row twice. stitches once, then BO 2 stitches twice, then BO 1 stitch once.
[108 (120, 132, 144, 156, 168, 180, 192) stitches remain] ** [12 (14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 22, 25) stitches remain]
Work even for 27 more rows, or until piece measures 14¾ (14¾, Next Row (RS): BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches, knit to end.
14¾, 15½, 15½, 15½, 16, 16)" / 37.5 (37.5, 37.5, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5,
Next Row (WS): BO 1 stitch, purl to end.
40.5) cm from CO edge, ending with a WS row.
Next Row: BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches, knit to end.
Shape Armholes [4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches remain]
After binding off stitches, re-establish the 1-stitch selvedge at edges.
Work 1 WS row even.
BO 6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14) stitches at the beginning of the next
two rows. BO remaining stitches knitwise from the RS.
[96 (104, 112, 120, 132, 144, 152, 164) stitches remain]
Armhole Double Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, [k2tog] twice,
knit to last 7 stitches, [SSK] twice, knit 3. (4 stitches decreased)
Repeat the Armhole Double Decrease Row every RS row 0 (1, 2,
2, 4, 4, 4, 4) more time(s).
[92 (96, 100, 108, 112, 124, 132, 144) stitches remain]
Work 1 WS row even.
Armhole Single Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, k2tog, knit to
last 5 stitches, SSK, knit 3. (2 stitches decreased)
Repeat the Armhole Single Decrease Row every RS row 5 (5, 5,
8, 8, 11, 11, 14) more times, then every 6th row 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4)
times.
[74 (78, 82, 84, 88, 94, 100, 106) stitches remain]
Work 25 (25, 25, 23, 23, 21, 23, 25) rows even, or until armhole
measures 7½ (7¾, 8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10½, 11½)" / 19 (19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 23,
24, 26.5, 29) cm, ending with a WS row.
Shape Neckline & Shoulders
Use the Sloped Bind Off method for best results.
Next Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 28 (30, 31, 32, 33, 36, 38, 41), then
transfer these 29 (31, 32, 33, 34, 37, 39, 42) stitches to waste yarn
or holder for Right Shoulder, BO next 16 (16, 18, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22)
stitches for neck, knit to end. [29 (31, 32, 33, 34, 37, 39, 42) stitches
remain for Left Shoulder]
Left Shoulder
Work 1 WS row even.
At the beginning of RS rows, BO 7 stitches once, then BO 5
stitches once, then BO 2 stitches twice, then BO 1 stitch once.
[12 (14, 15, 16, 17, 20, 22, 25) stitches remain]
Next Row (WS): BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches, purl to end.
Next Row (RS): BO 1 stitch, knit to end.
Next Row: BO 4 (4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches, purl to end.
[4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches remain]
Work 1 RS row even.
BO remaining stitches purlwise from the WS.
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MELROSE VEST Page 4
FRONT Continuing Neckline shaping, work 38 (38, 38, 36, 36, 34, 36, 38)
rows, or until armhole measures 9 (9¼, 9½, 10, 10½, 11, 12¼, 13¼)" /
Work as for BACK until **. 23 (23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 31, 33.5) cm, ending with a RS row.
Work even for 4 (4, 4, 6, 6, 8, 10, 12) more rows, or until piece [11 (13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 21, 24) stitches remain]
measures 12 (12, 12, 12¾, 12¾, 13, 13¾, 14)" / 30.5 (30.5, 30.5, 32.5,
32.5, 33, 35, 35.5) cm from CO edge, ending with a RS row. At the beginning of WS rows, BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches 1 (2,
1, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), then BO 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches 2 (1, 2, 1,
Braiding Row 1 (WS): Purl 46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88), knit 16, 1, 1, 1, 1) time(s).
purl to end.
[no stitches remain]
Braiding Row 2 (RS): Knit 46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88), k2tog-tbl,
[transfer 1 stitch from R needle back to L needle, YO, k2tog-tbl] 14 Left Shoulder
times, knit to end. (1 stitch decreased) Re-establish the 1-stitch selvedge at neck edge.
Braiding Row 3: Purl 46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88), [purl 1-tbl] 15 With WS facing, return 46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88) held Left
times, purl to end. Shoulder stitches to Needle A and rejoin yarn at neck edge.
[107 (119, 131, 143, 155, 167, 179, 191) stitches remain] Work 7 rows even.
Shape Neckline, Armholes, & Shoulders Left Neckline Single Decrease Row (RS): Work to last 5 stitches,
Neckline and Armhole shaping are worked at the same time: SSK, knit 3. (1 stitch decreased at neck edge)
Neckline shaping begins first, Armhole shaping begins and ends Repeat the Right Neckline Decrease Row every 6th row 5 (6, 5, 6,
before Neckline shaping is complete, and Shoulder shaping is 6, 7, 8, 11) more times, then every 4th row 12 (11, 13, 12, 13, 12, 12, 9)
worked last. Please read the following section through to the end times.
before beginning. Use the Sloped Bind Off method for best results.
AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 14¾ (14¾, 14¾, 15½,
Neckline Division Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 45 (51, 57, 63, 69, 75, 81, 15½, 15½, 16, 16)" / 37.5 (37.5, 37.5, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm
87) stitches, then transfer these 46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88) [19 (19, 19, 17, 17, 15, 13, 11) rows after Neckline Division Row], begin
stitches to waste yarn or stitch holder for Left Shoulder, BO next shaping armhole edge, as follows:
15 stitches for neck, knit to end. [46 (52, 58, 64, 70, 76, 82, 88)
Next Row (RS): BO 6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14) stitches, work to end.
stitches remain for Right Shoulder]
Work 1 WS row even.
Right Shoulder Left Armhole Double Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, [k2tog]
Re-establish the 1-stitch selvedge at neck edge. twice, work to end. (2 stitches decreased at armhole edge)
Work 7 rows even. Repeat the Left Armhole Double Decrease Row every RS row 0 (1,
Right Neckline Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, k2tog, work to 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4) time(s).
end. (1 stitch decreased at neck edge) Work 1 WS row even.
Repeat the Right Neckline Decrease Row every 6th row 5 (6, 5, 6, Left Armhole Single Decrease Row (RS): {Slip 1}, knit 2, k2tog, work
6, 7, 8, 11) more times, then every 4th row 12 (11, 13, 12, 13, 12, 12, 9) to end. (1 stitch decreased at armhole edge)
times.
Repeat the Left Armhole Single Decrease Row every RS row 5 (5,
AT THE SAME TIME, when piece measures 14¾ (14¾, 14¾, 15½, 5, 8, 8, 11, 11, 14) more times, then every 6th row 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4)
15½, 15½, 16, 16)" / 37.5 (37.5, 37.5, 39.5, 39.5, 39.5, 40.5, 40.5) cm times.
[20 (20, 20, 18, 18, 16, 14, 12) rows after Neckline Division Row],
begin shaping armhole edge, as follows: Continuing Neckline shaping, work 37 (37, 37, 33, 33, 31, 35, 37)
rows, or until armhole measures 9 (9¼, 9½, 10, 10½, 11, 12, 13)" /
Next Row (WS): BO 6 (8, 10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14) stitches, work to end. 23 (23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 30.5, 33) cm, ending with a WS row.
Right Armhole Double Decrease Row (RS): Work to last 7 stitches, [11 (13, 14, 15, 16, 19, 21, 24) stitches remain]
[SSK] twice, knit 3. (2 stitches decreased at armhole edge)
At the beginning of RS rows, BO 3 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 7, 8) stitches 1 (2, 1,
Repeat the Right Armhole Double Decrease Row every RS row 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) time(s), then BO 4 (5, 5, 5, 6, 7, 7, 8) stitches 2 (1, 2, 1, 1,
0 (1, 2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4) time(s). 1, 1, 1) time(s).
Work 1 WS rows even. [no stitches remain]
Right Armhole Single Decrease Row (RS): Work to last 5 stitches,
SSK, knit 3. (1 stitch decreased at armhole edge)
Repeat the Right Armhole Single Decrease Row every RS row
5 (5, 5, 8, 8, 11, 11, 14) more times, then every 6th row 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3,
4, 4) times.
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MELROSE VEST Page 5
FINISHING Armhole Bands
With 16" / 40 cm Needle B, RS facing, and beginning at underarm
Hand wash pieces using lukewarm water and a gentle fabric wash seam, pick up and knit 108 (116, 124, 132, 136, 144, 160, 168) stitches
with a neutral pH, allowing them to soak a minimum of 45 minutes. evenly around armhole edge. Place marker for BOR and join for
Do not rub, agitate, wring, or twist fabric. Rinse pieces well in working in the round.
lukewarm water. Keeping pieces compressed in shape, gently
remove excess water by rolling between two thick towels. Block Note: The number of stitches you pick up may vary slightly, just
pieces to measurements on schematic (blocking wires and T-pins be sure to pick up a multiple of 4.
are highly recommended to achieve best results). Allow pieces to Work in 2x2 Circular Ribbing until armhole band measures 1" / 2.5
dry thoroughly. cm from picked-up edge.
Loosely BO all stitches in pattern. Repeat instructions for second
Assembly armhole.
Sew shoulder seams using invisible method. Sew side seams
from hem to underarm using mattress stitch. (See Special Weave in all ends invisibly on WS of garment. Steam-block
Techniques for all methods mentioned.) neckband and armhole bands and all sewn edges to smooth
fabric and relax the seams, or wet-block entire garment again, if
desired.
Neckband
Using spare 24" / 60 cm circular needle (size US 0–1 / 2.0–2.25
mm), make a slipknot on needle. With RS facing, and beginning at
base of right neck (directly above final braiding row), pick up and
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
knit 67 (69, 70, 70, 73, 75, 78, 82) stitches along right neck, 58 (58, Long-Tail Purl Cast On
60, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64) stitches along back neck, and 67 (69, 70, Place both strands in left hand with working yarn looped over the
70, 73, 75, 78, 82) stitches along left neck. Using backward loop index finger and the tail looped over the thumb (held the same
method, CO 1 stitch onto end of needle. [194 (198, 202, 202, 210, way as for Long-Tail Cast On). *With needle in right hand, insert
214, 222, 230) stitches on needle] Do not join. needle into working yarn loop around index finger by going under
Switch to 24" / 60 cm Needle B. the side of the loop on the far side of the finger, then catch the
tail yarn loop over the thumb on the side in back of the thumb
Braiding Row 1 (WS): Knit to end. by bringing the needle under the strand. Pull the tail yarn loop
Braiding Row 2 (RS): YO, k2tog-tbl, *transfer stitch back to L through the working yarn loop, then release and tighten slightly.
needle, YO, k2tog-tbl; repeat from * to end. Repeat from * until desired number of stitches have been cast on.
Braiding Row 3: *Purl 1-tbl; repeat from * to end. Visit juliehoover.com/techniques for additional tutorial links
Next Row (RS): {Slip 1}, *purl 2, knit 2; repeat from * to last stitch, to the Long-Tail Purl Cast On, LLI, RLI, Sloped Bind Off, and
knit 1. recommended seaming methods.
Next Row (WS): {Slip 1}, *purl 2, knit 2; repeat from * to last stitch,
purl 1. ABBREVIATIONS
Continue ribbing as established until neckband measures 1¾" / BO: Bind Off
4.5 cm (take measurement with fabric slightly stretched).
CO: Cast On
On the next row, begin shaping back neckline as follows:
K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together
Work in pattern to shoulder seam with current Needle B, change
to Needle C and work 58 (58, 60, 60, 62, 62, 64, 64) back neck K2tog-tbl: Knit 2 stitches together through their back loops
stitches only, change to spare Needle B and work in pattern to LLI: Lift the L leg of the stitch 2 rows below the first stitch on the R
end. needle onto the L needle and knit it through the back loop
Continue ribbing using needle sizes as established until Purl 1-tbl: Purl stitch through the back loop
neckband measures 2¾" / 7 cm, ending with a WS row.
RLI: Lift the R leg of the stitch below the next stitch on the L
Loosely BO all stitches in pattern. needle onto the L needle and knit it
Sew selvedge edge of right neckband to the bind-off edge of RS: Right Side
center neckline so that the seam is hidden to the WS. Overlap left
neckband behind right neckband on the WS of garment and sew SSK: Slip 2 stitches knitwise, transfer stitches back to the L needle
selvedge edge to the previously sewn seam using whipstitch. in new orientation, then knit the stitches together through the
back loops
WS: Wrong Side
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MELROSE VEST Page 6
SCHEMATIC
9½ (9½, 9¾, 9¾, 10¼, 10¼, 10½, 10½)” 2 (2¼, 2½, 2¾, 3, 3½, 3¾, 4¼)”
24 (24, 25, 25, 26, 26, 26.5, 26.5) cm 5 (5.5, 6.5, 7, 7.5, 9, 9.5, 11) cm
back neck ¾" / 2 cm
1¾" / 4.5 cm
front neck 9 (9¼, 9½, 10, 10½, 11, 12¼, 13¼)”
12¾ (13, 13¼, 13½, 14, 14¼, 15, 15¾)" 23 (23.5, 24, 25.5, 26.5, 28, 31, 33.5) cm
32.5 (33, 33.5, 34.5, 35.5, 36, 38, 40) cm
11¾ (11¾, 11¾, 12½, 12½, 12½, 13, 13)”
2¾" 30 (30, 30, 32, 32, 32, 33, 33) cm
7 cm
3" / 7.5 cm
19¾ (21¾, 24, 26¼, 28¼, 30½, 32¾, 35)”
50 (55, 61, 66.5, 72, 77.5, 83, 89) cm
20¾ (23, 25, 27¼, 29½, 31¾, 33¾, 36)”
52.5 (58.5, 63.5, 69, 75, 80.5, 85.5, 91.5) cm
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MELROSE VEST Page 7
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