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38 PPQ Autumn 2021

Pom Pom Quarterly Issue 38 features a variety of knitting patterns inspired by trees and nature, emphasizing themes of roots, branches, and ecosystems. The issue includes contributions from various editors, designers, and yarn companies, showcasing patterns like the Silvatica stole and Skyward pullover. Additionally, it highlights the importance of sustainability by using recycled materials for printing.

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100% found this document useful (2 votes)

2K views120 pages

38 PPQ Autumn 2021

Uploaded by

Barbara Hansen

We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.

Available Formats

Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

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N°. 38 • £12.

RO OT S
+
B R ANC H ES

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

Editors + Creative Directors: Sample Knitters:
Lydia Gluck + Meghan Fernandes Alison Hellyer (Saknes), Ingelin Sofie Addo (Soana),
Managing Editor: Juliet Jung (Overstory), Tanya Kirk (Skyward)
Amy Collins
Design + Layout: Yarn Support:
Bless Design Bouclelaine, Cosy Posy Yarn Co.,
De Rerum Natura, Hello Gavriella, Ito Yarn,
Photography:
Julie Asselin, Katia, Knitting For Olive,
Salsabil Morrison
Life in the Long Grass, Little Fox Yarn,
Publisher + Marketing Director:
Sandnes Garn, Urth Yarns
Belinda Johnson
UK Wholesale Manager + Community Liaison: Thank you to Phaedra Clothing for the
Sophie Heathscott garments styled throughout the shoot.
Features Editor:
Francesca Baldry For advertising and submission opportunities,
Production Coordinator + Retail Manager: email us at contact@pompommag.com
Alice Sleight
Social Media + Digital Content Coordinator: Stay in Touch:
Sofia Aatkar pompommag.com
Studio Managers: ravelry.com/groups/pom-pom
Anoushka Haroutounian + Gayle Taliaferro Gilner instagram.com/pompommag
Technical Editors: facebook.com/pompommag
Jemima Bicknell + Laura Chau
twitter.com/pompommag
Pattern Illustrations:
pinterest.com/pompommag
Lydia Gluck
Copy Editor:
Printed in the UK by Park Communications,
Annie Prime
an ISO 14001 certified printer, using vegetable oil
Consultant: based inks on 100% recycled FSC® certified paper.
Emi Ito
Models: Newsstand distribution by Pineapple Media
Araba Ackon + Nick Mitchell
Hair + Makeup: For pattern corrections, please visit
Ashley Kay pompommag.com/errata
Photoshoot Location:
Keswick Mill, Norwich

© 2021. Copyright Pom Pom Quarterly. To download, redeem via Ravelry at

All rights reserved. No part of this magazine may be ravel.me/pompom
copied or reproduced without written permission of Available from the advertised on-sale date at
the publisher. For personal use only. pompommag.com/ppq38

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

I S S U E 3 8 CO N T EN T S

06 38
S I LVAT I C A CRAFTING FROM
Moonstruck intarsia stole. THE ROOT(WORK)
Dawn Henderson enchants
10 your crafting.
SKYWARD
Forward-thinking + branch tips 44
cast a pullover spell. VILLAINS
IN THE SOIL
14 Tereza Pavlíková hunts
S TA RG ROV E microplastics in unexpected places,
Hat plus canopy of starlight including your yarn.
+ protective love.
50
16 CHARCOAL FROM
CLADONIA N AT U R A L M AT E R I A LS
Colourwork pullover ode to intrepid lichens. Caitlin Ffrench shows how
the forest floor yields charcoal + ink.
20
SAKNES 56
Root ballet cardigan takes centre stage. THE HEARTWOOD
Patterns are always at Pom Pom’s core.
26
BROCÉLIANDE 114
Headband of the enchanted forest. GINGER PUDDING
Fi Churchman’s recipe for
28 root-infused sweet milk curd.
ALSIA
Moss garden stillness in a pullover. 116
THE FOREST SPRITES
32 Consider our autumn designers
OVERSTORY your helpful guides!
Hat adorned with the forest’s own crown.
118
34 THE SAPLINGS
SOANA What will these autumn yarns
Foggy alpine cowl-neck pullover reverie. grow into?

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

LE T T ER FRO M T H E ED I TO RS

The lockdown days of 2020-2021 have been long, In the following pages, you’ll find cables that echo
while the years have been short, as they say. gnarled roots, twisted stitches that call to mind
Many of us have come to appreciate the things the delicate tips of bare branches, and colourwork
that keep us stable as well as those that keep us that interprets the living world on a tree’s trunk.
moving through this bizarre and painful time. You’ll also read how to make inks using materials
For us, trees were at the top of the list. Both found in the woods (or in your home!), and the
rooted and reaching, fixed and growing, steady ways in which our yarn choices can affect the very
yet ever-changing through the seasons, trees soil from which trees grow. We also dive into
offer both a literal and metaphorical grounding African American rootwork, a practice that uses
that can be shared by anyone who sees them, literal roots and other symbolic objects, twined
feels them, or breathes in the oxygen they release together with tradition and heritage.
into the air.
Speaking of our pages, in the past, we’ve used
Working by hand with yarn gives us a similar vegetable oil-based inks on paper made
grounding feeling, so we and our contributors from virgin fibre sourced from well-managed,
found ourselves looking to the trees. The patterns responsible, FSC certified forests. We are pleased
and stories in this issue reference roots, branches, to share that from this issue forward, Pom Pom
fungi, lichen, and the entire ecosystems that is printed on 100% recycled FSC certified paper.
make up our arboreal friends, particularly when That means more tree friends for all of us.
their leaves have fallen. Perhaps there’s something
to be said for shedding the bright burden of leafy With love,
summers and nestling down into the earthy Meghan + Lydia
roots of warm, woolly stitches. xxx

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA CAPTURES THE

FEELING OF THE FOREST
ON A FOGGY NIGHT

Denizens of the witching hour, meet your knitted soulmate.

Silvatica captures the feeling of the forest on a foggy night.
Starting with the roots of the trees, then working up the trunks
to moonlight peeking through the uppermost branches, all the
layers of the forest are celebrated in this garter stole. Mohair is
worked alongside ITO Urugami’s special wool and paper blend
to create a satisfying but still lightweight fabric that we love for
cooler weather. Contrasting mohair strands define forest shapes
with a technique similar to intarsia, its fluffy and luminous
fibres blending all the while for a misty, moonstruck effect.

For those whose lightleader is the sun, rather than the moon,
we cannot wait to see the daytime forest palettes you compose.
A fantastical forest of psychedelic colours would also be a
showstopper, or an evergreen forest enrobed in a thick blanket
of fresh snow. All the palettes of your favourite forest will work
here, in any climate and weather. Whatever you can dream,
you can make real here!

by Anna Husemann pattern on page 58

yarn ITO Urugami & ITO Sensai #SilvaticaStole

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

S K YWARD

SKYWARD IS AN ICONIC
AUTUMN PULLOVER

Daily routines can reveal profound teachings! This quarter’s issue

developed during lockdown walks to and fro, and the slow noticing
of how trees reach down into the earth while simultaneously
stretching up to the sun. For Yiğitcan, the bare branches of late
autumn offer a sense of promise and regeneration as they witness
the cycle of the seasons. Even beneath gloomy skies, trees’
seemingly dormant bare branches stand strong in preparation
for springtime leaf buds and sunny days to come.

Skyward is an iconic autumn pullover. Worked top down and in

the round, the yoke forms in a textured stitch pattern of interlaced
tree branches constructed using cable methods. The worsted-weight
yarns we chose are soft, round, and pleasingly squishy to create a
springy and substantial fabric for chilly wanderings and warm
evenings in. Make your own Skyward as a reminder that, even
when life feels slow and bare, we are preparing for the coming
phases of life.

by Yiğitcan Vatansever
yarn Urth Yarns Harvest (blue, shown here) pattern on page 66
De Rerum Natura Gilliat (burgundy, shown overleaf) #SkywardPullover

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

STARG ROVE

STARGROVE IS AN UNCOMMONLY
HEARTFELT HAT PATTERN

Some years ago, the women of Tyra’s family attended her uncle’s
wedding wearing outfits specially made of the same star-motif fabric.
The gesture demonstrated to all in attendance that they were
members of the groom’s family and in full support of the union.
This issue’s theme drew Tyra’s mind to the supportive power of
roots in all their forms, from her own family roots to the mottled
pink and brown roots of a tree.

Trees form family units in much the way people do. Stands or groves
of nearby trees interlink their roots below ground to balance one
another’s nutrient production, communicating via an underground
network of mycorrhizal fungi that live on their roots. When one
member of a stand or grove is struggling, other members divert
some of their own supply to keep the sick one going.

Stargrove is an uncommonly heartfelt hat pattern. It deftly combines

knitting and crochet, starting with knitted ribbing before moving
into a knitted mosaic technique for the body. The crown and decreases
are then worked upward in crochet to enclose the hat in a canopy
of star stitches, referencing the fabric worn by Tyra’s family members.
Enrobe yourself in loving protection.

by Tyra Smith pattern on page 72

yarn Hello Gavriella Worsted #StargroveHat

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

C LADONIA

CLADONIA IS CAT’S ODE TO LICHENS

AND THEIR POSITION BETWEEN THE
LIVING AND THE DEAD

Between the roots and branches of a tree, a whole cycle of life

plays out. Notice the lichens sprawling from branches to forest floor,
returning to the earth the leaves, branches, and accumulations that
would otherwise pile up as high as the trees themselves. Even as
lichens release nutrients back to the soil, these silent marvels are
filtering harmful substances from the air. They form from fungi and
algae to create tiny but resilient symbiotic creatures which can endure
everything from arctic cold to desert heat with lacy lines intact.

Cladonia is Cat’s ode to lichens and their position between the

living and the dead, their range of shapes and colours (lichens can
even be used for dyeing!). Worked top down and in the round with
smooth fingering-weight yarns, Cladonia harbours its own quiet
wonders. Short rows create a comfortable fit at the back neck and
can include colourwork if you wish, easing the transition to the yoke
of embedded lichen formations. Optional folded hems and cuffs let
you choose your favourite finishes, and a lettering chart is included
if you’d like to add a secret message to yourself along the hem.

The genus cladonia are the moss-like lichens. The next time you
see them, pause to say a word of thanks for all the work they do
in silence.

by Catherine Clark
yarn Life in the Long Grass Earth, Cosy Posy pattern on page 76
Yarn Co. Feather & Little Fox Yarn Vixen #CladoniaPullover

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES

SAKNES MEANS ‘ROOTS’

IN LATVIAN, ZANETE’S
MOTHER TONGUE

Look at roots for long enough and you’ll notice their balletic strength
and movement. They grow and stretch, sprawling horizontally to
weave around obstacles great and small in search of nourishment.
They are seemingly independent but trace back to a single tree,
coordinating their efforts with the other members of their company
in a choreography of wood and soil.

The cables skimming this cardigan’s front mimic the gnarled beauty
of roots sprawling across the surface of the soil and Saknes means
‘roots’ in Latvian, Zanete’s mother tongue. The design’s textures draw
on roots’ apparently random and chaotic activity, which is always
governed by an internal logic. We adore how the elegantly graduated
cable sequences are emphasised by the smooth and evenly dyed,
worsted-weight Merino yarn.

The construction moves top down, working the upper back first
with shoulder shaping by short rows and optional waist shaping
to let you customise the fit. Upper front pieces are worked from
picked-up stitches and shaped with increases. The fronts and
backs are joined beneath the arm and worked straight down.
Sleeves are picked up and worked down last. This construction
results in a nice amount of structure that sits well on the shoulders
while also being easy to adjust to your perfect length.

by Zanete Hussain pattern on page 84

yarn Knitting For Olive Heavy Merino #SaknesCardigan

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

OUR BROCÉLIANDE’S CLASSIC

VIBES MAKE ANY OUTFIT FEEL
EXTRA SPECIAL

The enchanted forest of medieval European legend gives this

headband its name. In the Arthurian tales, the likes of Morgan le Fay,
the Lady of the Lake, and Merlin knew Brocéliande well. Other stories
of the time describe it as a mysterious home for fairies and mythical
creatures, where magical occurrences were a matter of course.
The spot is commonly associated with a dense and massive forest
in Brittany that still exists today, albeit much diminished in size.

Our Brocéliande’s classic vibes make any outfit feel extra special.
The vintage-feeling waffle texture is constructed with simple slipped
stitches that are knit flat until the piece is just right for your head,
then the special knotlike closure is created by seaming the ends
together. The chainette and Merino fluff yarn we’ve chosen creates
an otherworldly halo effect, which you could recreate with a
similarly constructed yarn or with a smooth yarn held alongside
a strand of mohair or suri alpaca from your stash. If you aren’t
into having a halo, a smooth yarn would also work!

Enchanted forests are popular elements of folklore and fairy tales

around the globe. The shadowy and mysterious terrain hosts long
journeys into the self, where fears are confronted away from the
demands of everyday life, and profound transformations occur.
But what awaits you here and now, as you make your stitches?

by Audrey Borrego pattern on page 94

yarn Katia Concept Cotton-Merino #BroceliandeHeadband

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

ALSIA

M OS S ES A RE DEEPLY S YMB OLI C

OF PEACE AND STILLNESS

Old tree trunks enveloped in a thick carpet of emerald moss were

the inspiration for Alsia, especially the way the angular structure and
sharp lines of the trunk remain evident beneath the moss’ softening
textures. This crocheted pullover looks simple at first, then reveals
itself to be a symphony of structure and textures. To achieve this,
Alsia is worked flat and in pieces, then seamed and finished with its
distinctive standup neckline. The joined pieces offset one another’s
subtle differences in the directions of their rows and lines.

We’ve borrowed Alsia’s name from a moss known in California,

where Reed lives, and where moss can be a divisive subject among
gardeners. Some view it as an unsightly weed on a grass lawn but others
cultivate it slowly, encouraging it to flourish in full moss gardens.
Mosses are deeply symbolic of peace and stillness because they
absorb sounds and form slowly in calm and undisturbed environments
like ancient forests, where you can find trees blanketed from root to tips.

Whatever your aesthetic views, our tree friends are greatly helped by
verdant mosses, which protect and feed them. Mosses break down
forest substrata to release nutrients that trees can easily consume,
and mosses absorb plenty of water to regulate soil moisture. Plus they
safeguard the wellbeing of the roots by preventing soil erosion. In the
tree’s own ecosystem, those tiny mosses are star players. If a rolling
stone gathers no moss, we’re quite happy to sit still.

by Reed Keyes pattern on page 96

yarn Bouclelaine Ouessant #AlsiaPullover

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

OVE RS TORY

OVERSTORY’S MEDIUM WEIGHT MAKES IT

JUST RIGHT TO STASH IN YOUR POCKET OR
BAG WHEN AUTUMN DAYS BEGIN TO CREEP IN

Trees are sympathetic beings. Just as their roots actively respond

to one another, so do their branches. Crown shyness is the
phenomenon of treetops growing synergistically alongside their
neighbours’, leaving a narrow boundary of space between one
another’s branches. These gaps ensure that each tree’s branches can
move independently and don’t snap against one another in a storm,
but they also help to prevent the spread of harmful insects, encourage
one another to better photosynthesise, and let light down to the life
forms occupying the lower levels of the forest. Nature’s own social
distancing helps the residents of the forest community to survive
in close quarters and even to flourish!

The overstory is the top layer of the forest, made up of the green
crowns of the trees. Viewed from the side, the branches of the trees’
crowns appear to interlock, even as they leave space for one another.
The upward-reaching branches’ stacked appearance is reflected in
this hat’s cable pattern and elegantly defined in a crisp but soft
Merino and Targhee sportweight blend. Worked from the bottom
up in comforting ribbing and straightforward cables, we find projects
like this gratifying to make as they knit up over just a few evenings
and look so impressive.

Overstory’s medium weight makes it just right to stash in your

pocket or bag when autumn days begin to creep in. Or maybe this
could be a good one to make for a friend or neighbour who has helped
you get through the pandemic so far feeling whole. After all, where
would we be without supportive neighbours and loved ones leaving
us space to breathe?

by Heidi Kästner pattern on page 100

yarn Julie Asselin Journey Sport #OverstoryHat

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

WHERE MOST CABLE-KNITS ARE CRISP

AND DEFINED, SOANA MAKES A FEATURE
OF SOFTNESS AND DREAMINESS INSTEAD

Get ready to put your head in the clouds! Soana refers to the
northern Italian Alpine river valley where Denise lives, which is
also home to an important nature reserve. As with many Alpine
valleys, a characteristic fog becomes trapped between the mountains
and settles among the trees, its humidity combining with the rich
river valley soil to nourish a lush and ancient forest of chestnut,
beech, and pine trees.

Where most cable-knits are crisp and defined, Soana makes a

feature of softness and dreaminess instead. On full display in this
pullover are the atmospheric, swirling textures of fog among pine
boughs as trees cascade down the sides of the valley, recreated
here with a rippling field of wide brioche cables worked in a loose
and fluffy alpaca yarn.

Soana follows a standard top-down and in-the-round raglan-sleeve

construction for body and sleeves, then is finished with flat front
and back hems worked separately, and a cloudlike cowl neck.
With softness like this, you’ll want to bundle yourself up all through
the cold months and imagine an alternate treetop dream life.

by Denise Otter pattern on page 104

yarn Sandnes Garn Børstet Alpakka #SoanaPullover

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CR AF T I NG
FROM THE
ROOT(WOR K)

The practice of Hoodoo, also known as

African-American folk magic or ‘rootwork’,
has been present in my life since childhood,
even if it wasn’t always identified as such.
Little things, like specific recipes, accessories,
even perfumes were a part of the craft.
All these things that were very specific,
but perpetually unnoticeable to the uninitiated,
built the foundations of magick* as a regular
practice around me.

words by Dawn Henderson

illustration by Mckenzie Mullen

* Editors’ Note: Practitioners of rootwork use

‘magick’ to distinguish their work from the
popular magic associated with party tricks
and illusions. This form of magickal herbalism
is distinct from medicinal herbalism.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

IT’S NOT ABOUT
WHAT CAN BE DONE
TO SOMEONE ELSE,
BUT WHAT CAN BE
CREATED FOR ONESELF

Growing up in New Orleans, Louisiana, there were It’s ultimately the pursuit of whatever one would
always signs and showings of conjure throughout consider their personal liberation.
the city. Oftentimes it was only as a sales pitch.
Walking through the French Quarter you’re The practice of Hoodoo is believed to have been
likely to encounter a psychic, tarot reader, or established in the United States during the times of
metaphysical shop on every block. But also, within slavery and it focuses more on the actual crafting
our neighbourhoods and homes, the rituals and of magickal charms than on a particular system
traditions of previous generations were kept alive of beliefs. It’s a gorgeous combination of nature
and passed down to the next. Something as simple and spirit; many of the tools used involve plant
as a dish of greens wasn’t just a part of the Sunday materials as the foundation, but the sole focus isn’t
meal; it could be used as a petition for continued necessarily just physical healing, as with medicinal
prosperity throughout the year. The added herbalism. Those practising this powerful craft
ingredients and spices, even the order in which are often trying to summon a particular action,
they made their way into the pot, all held seemingly or trying to create specific changes that will have
superstitious, but more often magickal implications positive effects on their circumstances. Hoodoo
that could help usher in miraculous results. is an empowering practice that is all about
literally crafting the life you desire. Sadly though,
Hoodoo is regularly confused with the African through colonisation, misinformation and
religion of Vodoun and is often associated with misrepresentation, the practice is often mocked
stuffed dolls covered in stick pins or dramatic or vilified, and grossly misunderstood.
hexes. Its purpose is actually grounded in much
more relatable concerns. For most practitioners, As knitting and other handcrafts have continued to
the end goals are simply health, stability, love, grow into a prioritised practice in my life over the
and happiness. It’s not about what can be done to years, it was only natural that I began incorporating
someone else, but what can be created for oneself. one experience into the other. I began unconsciously

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

drawing intersections between these two crafts and
noticing different ways that they could be worked
together. It’s not always a blatant display, like a
handmade mojo bag (though that project is definitely
in my queue). Most times, it’s little actions that
are largely unnoticeable, but still valid in their
intentions and power. And at its core, that’s what
magick truly is.

A super simple way to introduce a little magick

into your handcrafts is by way of water. Water
is often one of the most powerful, and in many
places, most accessible magickal tools available.
For many crafters, water is generally used at some
part of the crafting process, whether in the
preparation, duration, or finishing. What could
happen if you replaced your normal tap water
with solar or lunar-charged water? What kind of
intentions would that introduce? A glass jar sat out
to capture the energy of the sun or the coolness
of the moon, and in turn used in your crafting
process would, no doubt, yield magickal results.
Sign me up for a sweater quantity of yarn dyed
in moon water!

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

Another idea that can be easily incorporated is
the practice of anointing. Whether you create your
MANY BELIEVE
own custom herbal oil blends or add a few drops THAT FABRIC
of essential oils to a carrier oil, this is another
simple way to infuse intention into your making O F C E R T A I N
process. A few drops of oil added to your most
treasured tools or added to your hands at the start COLOURS
of each crafting session, can be done to inspire a
focus on gratitude, peace, or comfort.
ARE MORE
POWERFUL
On a more practical level, consider actually crafting
physical items that are of importance to your IN CERTAIN
magickal traditions and customs*. I previously
mentioned hand-crafted mojo bags. In the Hoodoo
SITUATIONS
tradition, a mojo bag (or mojo hand, gris gris,
or bag of tricks) is simply just a small packet of
charged items that are carried as an amulet of sorts
for specific purposes. Many believe that fabric (or sometimes downright frightening) dreams,
of certain colours are more powerful in certain having a soft, lovingly crafted, intention-imbued
situations. Depending on the worker’s intentions, beanie to pull on at night is a welcome source of
they can be filled with anything from herbs to bones comfort and can help to settle a restless mind.
to magnets and are carried (inconspicuously) for As a result, we now have a growing collection of
issues ranging from health to wealth or anything in these charmed ‘sleeping caps’ in our home.
between. Could a handmade mojo bag add an extra
element of power to your spells? Or maybe prayer Hopefully, this has maybe encouraged you to
shawls are a sacred item to you? Would an altar consider for yourself the parallels between crafting
cloth be a cherished piece? Think about how a wardrobe and crafting magick and, what’s more,
much energy a piece could possess when crafted how energy and intention can (and maybe should?)
specifically with intentions for magickal use! be infused into handmaking. Maybe these little acts
can offer a deeper sense of connection to how our
In this realm of thought, one such project that I ancestors worked. Perhaps you’ll even be inspired
come back to time and time again is hats. And no, to create rituals of your own that can heighten the
not the multiple variations of witches’ or wizards’ sense of magick in your crafty endeavours. Maybe
caps. Usually, it’s just a basic beanie but it’s been knit a dyer will get to work on those moon-water-dyed
up for a very specific purpose. In Hoodoo tradition, skeins for me? Nevertheless, from my oil-anointed
donning a head covering is often done as an outward FOs to yours, Happy Making!
form of protection. Many practitioners wouldn’t
dare perform rituals or spells without covering their
heads and, in the past, special handkerchiefs or
* Editors’ Note: These suggestions are shared to inform an
doilies, often hand embroidered or crocheted, would
empowering personal practice and should not be used to
do the trick. In a more personal sense, when one is make products for sale, particularly if rootwork is not part
having trouble falling asleep or is awakened by vivid of your tradition.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
VI LL AINS
IN THE SOIL
What would you see if you zoomed in
on underground roots? Soil particles,
a few bugs, naturally.

But you might be surprised to see tiny

colourful fibres all tangled up in them
as well – these are microplastics.

words by Tereza Pavlíková

illustration by Anisa Noorassa
fieldwork photos by Tereza Pavlíková

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

The problem with microplastics – and plastics
in general – is that they are not biodegradable.
Instead of decomposing, they break down into
smaller and smaller particles with the help of
water, wind, biological processes, or light. This
means they are persistent and they accumulate,
polluting our global environment.

Some plastics are produced as microplastics to

be added, for example, to cosmetics and hygiene
products. The tiny beads in face scrubs are often
microplastics. They are also sometimes added
to toothpaste or shower gels, meaning a single
shower can release up to 100,000 microplastic
particles into the water system.
Washed up plastics on the beach, South Uist.
However, cosmetic products are only a minor
When I was little, I was fascinated by the tiny contributor to global microplastic pollution.
colourful fragments that I kept finding on the Most often, microplastics are shed from larger
beach. At the time they seemed like gems, but plastics. Industry is the biggest contributor but a
now I know that they were just glass, in other full one third of microplastics in the environment
words: rubbish. Just as I collected rainbow are generated in domestic washing machines.
rubbish as a child, plant roots collect them too;
they catch them, bind them, and don’t let Two thirds of textile fibres produced worldwide
them go. However, in this case, the rubbish is are synthetic, which is equivalent to 60 million
not the glass. So what are these tiny villains? metric tons annually. Just one synthetic garment
They are something I have been researching can shed up to 2,000 microplastics in one wash.
for the past two years. These eventually enter the rivers and oceans,
harming animals, plantlife and people alike.
Microplastics are plastic particles smaller than
5mm. They are barely visible to the naked eye, We are even breathing them in. Microplastics
but look through a microscope and you will transported on the wind have been found in
see all different shapes, sizes, and colours. remote areas of the French Pyrenees and the
The most common are microfibres (as seen Himalayas. When microplastics reach the land,
below) in blue, pink, or just translucent. they are easily incorporated into the soil.

0.5mm

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

A South Uist beach.

In summer 2019, I was researching this part We can also influence microplastic soil pollution
of the plastic cycle with my partner on the Isle of more directly. Over time, the black plastic foils
South Uist, Scotland, where we collected 13kg you might put on a garden bed to keep the soil warm
of soil samples. Back in the Czech Republic, and wet shed microplastics. Then microplastics
I analysed the soil for microplastic distribution. can enter the root system through the cracks and
be transferred to the edible parts of a plant: leaves,
The results were shocking. The most polluted seeds, fruits. One study that focused on sheep
sample had as much as 170,000 microfibres per excrement found 1,000 microplastic particles per
litre of soil! Sandy soils, sands, and loam differ kilo! As we eat plants and meat, it’s no surprise
greatly. A litre of coastline soil contains an average that microplastics have been found in all major
of 5,140 microplastic particles, whereas the average human organs.
in inland soil was 51,665 particles – ten times higher!
What can we do to help? We are knitters and
Why the difference? It has largely to do with roots, crocheters, so let’s return to the point about textile
vegetation, and soil texture. Wind can pick up fibres being one of the most significant pollutants.
microplastics much more easily from sand than It is true that our craft has less damaging impact
from soil, where microplastics are easily incorporated compared to the global textile industry, so it can
into soil particles and stay trapped among the roots. be tempting to argue that our stashes are irrelevant
The denser the vegetation, the more roots there are, by comparison. But I believe that each of us can
and the more protected the soil is from wind, so the contribute in our own way and every bit we do
microplastics become trapped further still. Beaches counts. Remember that one third of microplastics
have less vegetation than inland soils and sand has in the environment originate in domestic
less cohesion, so plastic particles that wash up washing machines.
don’t stay there for very long.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

woollen yarn. But the most common superwash
process removes the scales of wool fibre, then
coats the fibre in plastic. Because superwash
yarns have been treated with plastic, they also
release microplastics into the environment.

The superwash process prevents the yarn from

felting, so you can easily put it into the washing
machine. Think about which items you really
need to be able to machine wash regularly,
and which can be worn with occasional gentle
handwashing. Remember that wool has self-
-cleaning properties! There are alternatives
to standard superwash; bluesign® or GOTS
certification guarantees a more sustainable
The author collecting a soil sample, South Uist. superwash process has been used. Try looking
for these marks when a superwash yarn feels
My advice for knitters is simple: use more necessary for your project.
non-superwash natural fibres. Why?
I am not saying we should throw away all our
Synthetic fibres shed microplastics. I am not just superwash yarns. I have some in my stash because,
talking about 100% acrylic yarns; I also try to let’s face it, microplastics are not the only problem
avoid synthetic blends where possible and look in the world. While we do what we can with
for natural fibres like wool, alpaca, silk, and linen. our individual making and means, it’s equally
Natural fibres do tend to be pricier than synthetics important that those with more power do what
and that can make them feel less attainable but, they can. Maybe you can find time to encourage
with a little exploring, most communities offer your government representatives to advocate for
options at varying levels of expense. Wherever climate solutions that target microplastics in your
someone might be on the financial spectrum, community. My hope is that each of us does what
there are many creative ways to get and give we reasonably can to ensure that our hobby is
natural fibres. Local yarn shops often have helpful to our planet and our soil.
excellent natural fibre yarns at reasonable prices.
There might also be farm shops or mills nearby
with absolutely beautiful bargain options.
And thrift shops can sell whole skeins or pure
wool jumpers that can be unravelled for reuse.
Community resources are also vital, whether
you’re looking for yarn or looking to destash
so that others can use yarn you’ll never get to!
Local guilds and online groups often host yarn
swaps, as well as trade or giveaway platforms.
Some lucky towns have a Little Free Fibre Library
or a creative reuse organisation where donations
can include natural fibre yarns to take for free.
For people with more time on their hands,
establishing a fibre library is always an option.

As well as synthetic fibres, I try to avoid yarns

of superwash wool. Many people buy a luxurious
superwash in the belief that they’ve chosen a pure Plastic particle found in soil, South Uist.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
C H A R C O A L
F ROM
NAT URAL
M A T E R I A L S
words + images by Caitlin Ffrench

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

TO MAKE CHARCOAL
YOU WILL NEED:

- Dried plant materials

- A tin with a lid
- Garden shears if your plant materials
need to be trimmed down
- An outdoor fire

TO MAKE INK
YOU WILL NEED:

- Watercolour medium (liquid gum

arabic - this helps the pigment particles
suspend in the water)
- An amber bottle with a lid
- Water
- A glass slab and muller or pestle and
mortar to grind down the charred
plant materials
- A palette knife

All of these are available at a standard

art supply store or online.

Make your own artist’s supplies from natural

materials found around your home, neighbourhood,
or wider community. This technique can be used
to make charcoal from most dried plant materials
- give it a try with whatever you can find in your
landbase. I used grape vines, roses, and blackberry
brambles. The grape vines were old woody branches
that a friend trimmed off her vine at home, the
roses were a gift from my partner that I dried after
they were past their prime, and the blackberry
brambles are an invasive species in my landbase,
so a great material to harvest and use. The blackberry
bramble was super sharp, so I used a knife to
strip the thorns before bringing it home.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CHARCOAL INSTRUCTIONS

1. Be sure your plants are well dried. I like to leave 6. Carefully remove the tin from the fire and place
them in a cool spot for a few months. on a fireproof surface, like rock or soil. Be sure not
to place hot tins on dry grass or leaves that could
2. Fill your tin with your plants and close with the lid. catch fire.

3. Light a fire outside. 7. Keep the lid on until the tin has completely
cooled. If you take the lid off too early, you risk
4. Once the fire is hot, nestle the tin into the hot igniting the plants and turning your charcoal
coals. Do this with tongs and fireproof gloves for into ash.
full safety, but I have been known to use two
sticks as tongs. 8. Remove the charcoal from the tin and use it
to draw something magical.
5. Leave in fire and coals for at least 20 minutes.
If there is smoke coming out of the tin, your
materials are still charring. Once the smoke
stops, the tin should be ready to remove!

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

INK INSTRUCTIONS

Note: Wear a dust mask when handling powdered 6. Use your palette knife to drag the pigment
charcoal pigments. mixture back into the centre of the slab.

1. Follow instructions to make charcoal. 7. Repeat steps 5 and 6 until the charcoal is
ground as fine as you’d like.
2. Break your charcoal into small pieces and place
onto a glass slab or mortar. 8. Use the palette knife to scrape the pigment
mixture into your amber glass jar.
3. Add 5-10 drops of gum arabic medium.
9. Fill the remainder of the jar with water. (Or add
4. Add a tablespoon or so of water. as much water as you like. The more water you
add, the less concentrated the colour of your ink.)
5. Use your muller (or pestle if using a mortar)
to slowly mix the water and gum arabic into the 10. Use your ink with a dropper or paintbrush!
charcoal, making circular movements. Your
charcoal will slowly break into smaller pieces.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
THE PATTERNS

The yarns featured in this issue work brilliantly

for their respective patterns and we love them,
but they are not the only options! We frequently
substitute yarns when making patterns for
ourselves and encourage you to try other options,
especially yarns already in your stash. There can
be lots of reasons for using a different yarn to the
one listed in the pattern; some yarns aren’t easy to
obtain either because they are dyed or produced
in very small batches, or perhaps because they
aren’t local to you. Budget considerations are
also important as many yarns are not financially
accessible to every knitter who wants to make a
pattern. Substitutions can be daunting, but if you
keep the following two things in mind, you’ll be
on the right track:

- The ratio of yarn ball length to the weight of

the yarn. This means the number of metres/yards
to grams/ounces. If your yarn’s ratio is similar to
that of the yarn called for in the pattern, your yarn
will usually be the right thickness to get gauge.

- Yarn characteristics. Choose an alternative

with similar features to the yarn listed in the
pattern. Check if drapey fibres like silk or
alpaca are involved, or more structured wools.
Also check how the yarn is spun: springy and
smooth or inelastic and fuzzy. This will ensure
you’re working with something that will have
a similar drape or structure to the yarn used
in the original design.

We are now listing more specific yardage

requirements with our patterns to help you
decide exactly how much of an alternative
yarn you will need. If you have any doubts
when substituting, ask for help! We encourage
you to engage with the expertise of your local
yarn shop. You are also welcome to join our
forum on Ravelry, where other Pom knitters
and staff are always around to share ideas with.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

ABBREVIATIONS + TECHNIQUES

beg Beginning sk Skip (crochet)

BLO back loop only (crochet) sl st Slip stitch (crochet)
cast off Bind off sp Space (crochet)
cdd See “s2kpo” sl Slip
ch Chain (crochet) s2kpo Slip 2 stitches together knitwise, knit
dc Double crochet (UK: treble crochet) next stitch, pass slipped stitches over
dec Decrease sk2po Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit next 2 stitches
DPN(s) Double-pointed needle(s) together, pass slipped stitch over
FLO front loop only (crochet) skp Slip 1 stitch knitwise, k1, pass slipped
foll Follow(s)/Following stitch over
G st Garter stitch ssk Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time,
inc Increase knit together through the back loops
k Knit ssp Slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time,
kbf Knit into the back then into purl together through the back loops
the front of a stitch sssk Slip 3 stitches knitwise one at a time,
kfb Knit into the front and back knit together through the back loops
of a stitch sssp Slip 3 stitches knitwise one at a time,
kfbf Knit into the front, then back, purl together through the back loops
then front of a stitch SM Slip marker
k2tog Knit 2 stitches together st(s) Stitch(es)
k3tog Knit 3 stitches together St st Stocking stitch (stockinette): knit on
LH Left hand RS rows, purl on WS rows
M1 Work as M1L tbl Through the back loop
M1L(P) Make 1 Left; pick up strand between tog Together
the two needles from the front to wyib With yarn held in back of work
back with the tip of left needle, wyif With yarn held in front of work
knit (purl) into the back of this stitch w&t Wrap and turn: On RS rows, sl st from
M1R(P) Make 1 Right; pick up strand between left needle to right needle, move yarn
the two needles from back to front to front, sl st from right needle to left
with the tip of left needle, knit (purl) needle, move yarn to back, turn. On
into the front of this stitch WS rows, move yarn to back, sl st from
M1P Work as M1LP left needle to right needle, move yarn
patt Pattern (i.e. work in pattern) to front, sl st back to left needle, turn.
PM Place marker WS Wrong side of fabric
p Purl yo Yarn over needle and into
pbf Purl into the back then into the working position
front of a stitch
pfb Purl into the front and back of a stitch Pom Pom tutorials available for techniques in this issue:
prev Previous
p2tog Purl 2 stitches together - 3-Needle Cast-Off
p3tog Purl 3 stitches together video at pompommag.com/three-needle-bind-off
rem Remain(s)/Remaining - Grafting
rep Repeat video at pompommag.com/grafting
rev St st Reverse Stocking stitch (stockinette): - German Short Rows
purl on RS rows, knit on WS rows video at pompommag.com/german-short-rows
RH Right hand
RS Right side of fabric Other tutorials available at pompommag.com/tutorials
sc Single crochet (UK: double crochet) - Backwards Loop Cast-On
sc2tog Single crochet (UK: double crochet) - Cabling Without a Cable Needle
2 sts together - Long-Tail Cast-On
sc3tog Single crochet (UK: double crochet) - Tubular Cast-On and Cast-Off
3 sts together - Wrap & Turn 57

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

One size: 200cm / 79" long x 28cm / 11" wide

Araba’s height is 173cm / 5' 8".
Yarn: ITO Urugami (laceweight; 72% wool,
28% paper; 240m / 262yds per 40g skein)
Yarn A: Black (221); 4 skeins
AND
ITO Sensai (laceweight; 60% mohair, 40% silk;
240m / 262yds per 20g skein)
Yarn B: Camel (697); 1 skein
Yarn C: Mint (699); 1 skein
Yarn D: Olive (698); 1 skein
Yarn E: Cabbage (700); 1 skein
OR
Yarn A: approx. 955m / 1044yds of ribbon
laceweight yarn
Yarn B: approx. 124m / 136yds of mohair
laceweight yarn
Yarn C: approx. 103m /113yds of mohair
laceweight yarn
Yarn D: approx. 172m /188yds of mohair
laceweight yarn
Yarn E: approx. 129m /141yds of mohair
laceweight yarn
Gauge: 25 sts & 51 rows = 10cm / 4" over
Garter stitch on 3mm needles, after blocking.
Needles: 3mm / US 2.5 knitting needles
Always use a needle size that will result in the
correct gauge after blocking.
Notions: Locking stitch markers or scrap yarn
(optional)
Notes: Silvatica is worked flat in Garter stitch.
One continuous strand of yarn A is held
throughout, either alone or held together with
one strand of contrast mohair yarn B, C, D or E,
as indicated on the colourwork chart.

On some RS rows, the contrast mohair yarn will

need to be transported as indicated on the chart
in one of the following ways:
Weave yarn: *K1, move the contrast mohair
strand to the front, k1, move the contrast mohair
strand to the back; rep from * for required
number of sts.
Float yarn: Knit first stitch with both strands,
floating the contrast mohair strand along the
back, *lift the float onto the LH needle and knit
it together with the next st, k1; repeat to end of
“floated” section.

Always drop the contrast mohair strand to the

front of the work, ready for the next row.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

WS rows are not shown on the chart. Read RS

rows from right to left, then work the same row
from left to right for the subsequent WS row.
For a neat finish, slip the first st of every row
knitwise and knit the last st of every row tbl.
This action is not referred to/shown on the chart.

PATTERN BEGINS
NOTE: Please read the Pattern Notes before
beginning.

Using the long-tail method, cast on 70 sts as foll:

cast on 17 sts with one strand of yarn A, join yarn
B and, holding tog with yarn A, cast on 27 sts,
drop yarn B, working with one strand of yarn A,
cast on 26 sts. 70 sts
Next row (WS): With yarn A only, sl1 kwise, k25,
with one strand of yarn A and yarn B held tog,
k27, with yarn A only, k16, k1tbl.
Cast-on and first row count as rows 1-2 of chart A.
Beg with row 3 of Chart A, continue working from
chart as set, changing contrast mohair strand as
indicated. WS rows are not shown on the charts,
work them by reading chart row just completed
from left to right. You may find it helpful to place
a locking stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn
every 20 rows to keep track of your place in the
charts. When Chart A is complete, work through
Charts B-F. When Chart F is complete, cast off all
sts loosely.

FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measurements.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart A
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with
Knit with 11 sstra
tranndd ooff ya
yarn
rn A
A Knit
Knit with
with 11 sstra
tranndd ooff ya
yarn
rn AA Knit
Weavewith 1 s(s
yarn traeen dPaottern
f ya rnNotes)
A Weave yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
and 1 strand of yarn C held tog and
and 11 strand
strand ofof yarn
yarn CE held
held tog
tog and 1 strand of yarn E held tog
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Floa t yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes) Floa t yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
60 and 1 strand of yarn B held tog and 1 strand of yarn BD held heldtog
tog and 1 strand of yarn D held tog

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart B
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart C
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Weave yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
and 1 strand of yarn C held tog and 1 strand of yarn E held tog
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Floa t yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
62 and 1 strand of yarn B held tog and 1 strand of yarn D held tog

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart D
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart E
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Weave yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
and 1 strand of yarn C held tog and 1 strand of yarn E held tog
Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Knit with 1 s tra n d o f ya rn A Floa t yarn (s ee Pa ttern Notes)
64 and 1 strand of yarn B held tog and 1 strand of yarn D held tog

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SILVATICA
by Anna Husemann

Chart F
70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

Burgundy Version (shown on page 68):

De Rerum Natura Gilliat (worsted-weight; 100%
Merino wool; 250m / 273yds per 100g ball)
Shade: Merlot; 5 (5, 5, 6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8) balls OR
approx. 1031 (1118, 1206, 1324, 1378, 1506, 1643,
1746, 1856)m / 1127 (1222, 1319, 1448, 1507, 1647,
1796, 1909, 2030)yds of
worsted-weight yarn
Gauge: 19 sts & 28 rows = 10cm / 4" in reverse
St st, after blocking
Needles: 4.5mm / US 7 circular needle, 60-100cm
/ 24-40" length (depending on size worked) and
needles suitable for working small circumferences
in the round.
Note: Begin the yoke using needles suitable for
working small circumferences in the round, then
change to circular needles as the circumference
increases.
Always use a needle size that will result in the
correct gauge after blocking.
Notions: 4 stitch markers (including one unique
for beg of round), scrap yarn, cable needle, tapestry
needle
Notes: Skyward is worked in the round from the
top down, beginning with 1x2 Rib at the neck.
The yoke is worked in cable pattern with regular
increases, then the work is divided for the body
and sleeves. The remainder of body and the sleeves
are worked from the top down in reverse Stocking
stitch (purl every round on RS). The hem and
cuffs are finished with 1x1 Rib and cast off with
the Italian / tubular method.

Stitch Glossary:
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9) 1x2 Rib
Finished chest (fullest point) circumference: 85.5 Round 1: [P1, k1, p1] to end.
(94, 102.5, 111, 117.5, 128.5, 139, 153, 166.5)cm / Rep round 1 for pattern.
33¾ (37, 40½, 43¾, 46¼, 50½, 54¾, 60¼, 65¾)" –
to be worn with approx 7.5-18cm / 3-7" 1x1 Rib
positive ease. Round 1: [K1, p1] to end.
Nick’s height is 163cm / 5' 4" with a chest (fullest Rep round 1 for pattern.
point) circumference of 91cm / 36", and is shown
wearing the blue version in a size 3. 3-inc: (K1, p1, k1) into next st. 2 sts inc
Araba’s height is 173cm / 5' 8" with a chest (fullest
point) circumference of 112cm / 44", and is 1/1 LC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at front, k1,
shown wearing the burgundy version in a size 6 k1 from cable needle.
on page 68. 1/1 RC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at back, k1,
Blue Version (shown above and on page 69): k1 from cable needle.
Yarn: Urth Yarns Harvest (worsted-weight; 1/1 LPC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at front, p1,
100% Merino wool; 206m / 225yds per 100g skein) k1 from cable needle.
Shade: Indigo; 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins 1/1 RPC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at back, k1,
p1 from cable needle.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

German Short Rows: Round 45: P1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1 (2, 2,
Create DS: Bring yarn to front, slip the first stitch 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), k1, p1.
as if to purl, bring yarn over the needle to the back Round 46: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2,
of your work and pull tight (it will look like 2, 2, 2), k1, p1.
a double stitch = DS) Sizes 1, 2 & 5 ONLY:
Resolving Double Stitches: When you encounter Round 47: Rep round 46.
the DS on subsequent rows, work DS in pattern, Sizes 3, 4, 6, 7, 8 & 9 ONLY:
inserting needle through both legs of the DS and Round 47 (inc): P1, k1, p2, k1, pfb, k1, p2, k1, p1.
treating it as one stitch. 1 st inc
ALL sizes again:
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHART Rounds 48-52: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1 (1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2,
Round 1 (inc): P1, 3-inc, p1. 2 sts inc; 5 sts per rep 2, 2), k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), k1, p1.
Rounds 2-8: P1, k1, p1, k1, p1. Rounds 53-56: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1 (1, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2,
Round 9 (inc): P1, k1, pfb, k1, p1. 1 st inc 2, 2), k1, p3 (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4).
Rounds 10-16: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1. Rounds 57-58: P1, k1, p2, k1, p5 (6, 7, 7, 6, 7, 7,
Rounds 17 (inc): P1, k1, p2, 3-inc, p1. 2 sts inc 7, 7).
Rounds 18-20: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1. Sizes 1, 2, 3, 5 & 6 ONLY:
Round 21: P1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1. Round 59: Rep round 57.
Round 22: P2, k2, p2, k1, p1. Sizes 4, 7, 8 & 9 ONLY:
Round 23: P2, 1/1 RC, p2, k1, p1. Round 59 (inc): P1, k1, p2, k1, pfb, p6. 1 st inc
Round 24: Rep round 22. ALL sizes again:
Round 25: P1, 1/1 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p1, k1, p1. Round 60: P1, k1, p2, k1, p5 (6, 7, 8, 6, 7, 8, 8, 8).
Round 26: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1. Rounds 61-64: P4, k1, p5 (6, 7, 8, 6, 7, 8, 8, 8).
Size 1 ONLY: 10 (11, 12, 13, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts per rep
Round 27: Rep round 26.
Sizes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 & 9 ONLY: PATTERN BEGINS
Round 27 (inc): P1, k1, p2, k1, pfb, k1, p1. 1 st inc Using needles suitable for working small
ALL sizes again: circumferences in the round and the long-tail
Round 28: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), method, cast on 96 (96, 96, 96, 114, 114, 114,
k1, p1. 120, 126) sts. Join for working in the round.
Round 29: 1/1 RPC, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, PM to indicate beg of round.
2), 1/1 LPC. Note: Change to longer circular needles when
Round 30: K1, p3, k1, p2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3), k1. necessary.
Round 31: 1/1 LC, p3, k1, p2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3).
Round 32: Rep round 30. Set-up round: [P1, k1, p1] 8 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9)
Round 33: 1/1 LPC, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), times for right sleeve, PM, [p1, k1, p1] 8 (8, 8, 8,
1/1 RPC. 10, 10, 10, 11, 12) times for front, PM, [p1, k1,
Rounds 34-36: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, p1] 8 (8, 8, 8, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) times for left sleeve,
2), k1, p1. PM, [p1, k1, p1] to end for back.
Round 37 (inc): P1, k1, p2, 3-inc, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, Work a further 22 rounds in 1x2 Rib as set, slipping
2, 2, 2), k1, p1. 2 sts inc markers as you pass them.
Rounds 38-40: P1, k1, p2, k1, p1, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2,
2, 2, 2, 2), k1, p1. YOKE
Round 41: P1, 1/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p1, k1, p1 (2, 2, Working from chart or written instructions,
2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), k1, p1. begin working yoke as foll:
Round 42: P2, k2, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), Next round: Work round 1 of Chart 32 (32, 32,
k1, p1. 32, 38, 38, 38, 40, 42) times to end. 160 (160, 160,
Round 43: P2, 1/1 RC, p2, k1, p1 (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2), 160, 190, 190, 190, 200, 210) sts
k1, p1. Work rounds 2-30 of chart as set. 256 (288, 288,
Round 44: Rep round 42. 288, 342, 342, 342, 360, 378) sts

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

Next round: Remove beg of round marker, slip Rep Short rows 3-4 once more.
last st from RH needle to LH needle, replace Next row (RS): Create DS, p to beg of round.
marker, *work round 31 of chart to 1 st before Purl 4 (4, 6, 6, 6, 8, 8, 8, 10) rounds, resolving
marker, slip next st from LH needle to RH needle, rem DS as you pass them.
remove marker, slip st from RH needle back to
LH needle, work first 1/1 LC of chart and replace Divide body and sleeves
marker between these 2 sts; rep from * twice, Next round: Slip beg of round marker, place
work round 31 of chart to end, remove marker, next 80 (88, 96, 104, 99, 108, 117, 117, 117) sts
k1, replace marker for beg of round. on hold for sleeve, remove marker, p to marker,
Works rounds 32-64 of Chart as set. 320 (352, remove marker, place next 80 (88, 96, 104, 99,
384, 416, 418, 456, 494, 520, 546) sts 108, 117, 117, 117) sts on hold for sleeve, remove
Next round: Purl. marker, p to end. 160 (176, 192, 208, 220, 240,
Beg working short rows as foll: 260, 286, 312) sts
Short row 1 (RS): P to 10 (11, 12, 13, 11, 12, 13,
13, 13) sts before marker, turn work. BODY
Short row 2 (WS): Create DS, [k to marker, SM] Work straight in rev St st (purl every round) for
twice, k to 10 (11, 12, 13, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13) sts a further 66 (66, 66, 70, 70, 70, 74, 74, 74) rounds,
before marker, turn work. or until body measures 5.5cm / 2¼" less than
Short row 3 (RS): Create DS, p to DS, resolve DS, desired length.
p10 (11, 12, 13, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13), turn work. Work in 1x1 Rib for 16 rounds.
Short row 4 WS): Create DS, k to DS, resolve DS, Cast off using Italian / tubular method.
k10 (11, 12, 13, 11, 12, 13, 13, 13), turn work.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

SLEEVES FINISHING
With RS facing, using needles suitable for working Weave in ends, sewing up any gaps at the
small circumferences in the round, rejoin yarn underarms, and block to measurements.
and purl across 80 (88, 96, 104, 99, 108, 117, 117,
117) held sleeve sts. Join to work in the round, PM a. Chest (fullest point) circumference: 85.5
to indicate beg of round. 80 (88, 96, 104, 99, 108, (94, 102.5, 111, 117.5, 128.5, 139, 153, 166.5)cm /
117, 117, 117) sts 33¾ (37, 40½, 43¾, 46¼, 50½, 54¾, 60¼, 65¾)"
Purl 7 (1, 3, 1, 7, 1, 1, 1, 1) rounds. b. Length (hem to underarm): 30 (30, 30, 31.5,
Dec round: P2tog, p to last 2 sts, ssp. 2 sts dec 31.5, 31.5, 32.5, 32.5, 32.5)cm / 11¾ (11¾, 11¾,
Continue in rev St st and rep Dec round every 12¼, 12¼, 12¼, 12¾, 12¾, 12¾)"
5th (5th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th, 4th) round a further c. Sleeve length: 43 (43, 43, 44.5, 44.5, 45, 47,
17 (12, 19, 16, 19, 14, 11, 11, 11) times. 47, 47)cm / 17 (17, 17, 17½, 17½, 17¾, 18½,
44 (62, 56, 70, 59, 78, 93, 93, 93) sts 18½, 18½)"
Rep Dec round every 4th (4th, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd, 3rd, d. Upper arm circumference: 42.5 (47, 51, 55.5,
3rd, 3rd) round a further 1 (9, 6, 12, 6, 15, 21, 21, 21) 53, 57.5, 62.5, 62.5, 62.5)cm / 16¾ (18½, 20,
times. 42 (44, 44, 46, 47, 48, 51, 51, 51) sts 21¾, 20¾, 22¾, 24½, 24½, 24½)"
Work straight in rev St st if necessary until sleeve e. Yoke depth (neck to underarm): 33 (33, 33.5,
measures 37 (37, 37, 38, 38, 38.5, 40.5, 40.5, 40.5) 33.5, 33.5, 34.5, 34.5, 34.5, 35)cm / 13 (13, 13¼,
cm / 14½ (14½, 14½, 15, 15, 15¼, 16, 16, 16)", 13¼, 13¼, 13½, 13½, 13½, 13¾)"
or 6cm / 2½" less than desired length. f. Neck circumference: 45.5 (45.5, 45.5, 45.5,
Next round: P to end and at the same time dec 54.5, 54.5, 54.5, 58, 61)cm / 18 (18, 18, 18, 21½,
0 (0, 0, 0, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1) st. 42 (44, 44, 46, 46, 48, 50, 21½, 21½, 22¾, 24)"
50, 50) sts g. Cuff circumference: 17 (17.5, 17.5, 18.5, 19,
Work in 1x1 Rib for 18 rounds. 19.5, 20, 20, 20)cm / 6¾ (7, 7, 7¼, 7½, 7¾, 8,
Cast off using Italian / tubular method. 8, 8)"

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SKYWARD
by Yiğitcan Vatansever

Chart - Size 1 ONLY Chart - Sizes 2 & 5 ONLY Chart - Sizes 3 & 6 ONLY Chart - Sizes 4, 7, 8 & 9 ONLY
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
64 64 64 64
63 63 63 63
62 62 62 62
61 61 61 61
60 60 60 60
59 59 59 59
58 58 58 58
57 57 57 57
56 56 56 56
55 55 55 55
54 54 54 54
53 53 53 53
52 52 52 52
51 51 51 51
50 50 50 50
49 49 49 49
48 48 48 48
47 47 47 47
46 46 46 46
45 45 45 45
44 44 44 44
43 43 43 43
42 42 42 42
41 41 41 41
40 40 40 40
39 39 39 39
38 38 38 38
37 37 37 37
36 36 36 36
35 35 35 35
34 34 34 34
33 33 33 33
32 32 32 32
31 31 31 31
30 30 30 30
29 29 29 29
28 28 28 28
27 27 27 27
26 26 26 26
25 25 25 25
24 24 24 24
23 23 23 23
22 22 22 22
21 21 21 21
20 20 20 20
19 19 19 19
18 18 18 18
17 17 17 17
16 16 16 16
15 15 15 15
14 14 14 14
13 13 13 13
12 12 12 12
11 11 11 11
10 10 10 10
9 9 9 9
8 8 8 8
7 7 7 7
6 6 6 6
5 5 5 5
4 4 4 4
3 3 3 3
2 2 2 2
1 1 1 1
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
knit 3 - i nc 1 / 1 L PC

pu r l 1 / 1 LC 1 / 1 R PC

pf b 1 / 1 RC Cable Across Repeat -

refer to w r it te n pa tte rn

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

STARGROVE
by Tyra Smith

Sizes: 1 (2, 3) Needles and Hooks: 4.5mm / US 7 circular needle,

Finished circumference: 51 (54, 58)cm / 20 (21, 40cm / 16" length
23)’’ – to be worn with approx. 5-10cm / 2-4’’ 4mm / US 6 circular needle, 40cm / 16" length
negative ease. 3.75mm / US 5 circular needle, 40cm / 16" length
Araba is shown wearing a size 2. 4mm / US G crochet hook
Yarn: Hello Gavriella Worsted (worsted-weight; Always use a needle/hook size that will result in
100% non-superwash Merino; 200m / 218yds the correct gauge after blocking.
per 100g skein) Notions: 1 stitch marker, cable needle,
Yarn A: Latte; 1 skein tapestry needle
Yarn B: Salem Slouch; 1 skein Notes: Stargrove is worked from the bottom up,
OR in the round. After ribbing, the first section
Yarn A: approx. 125 (148, 156)m / 136 (162, 171) of the body is knit in Brick Stitch, a two-colour
yds of worsted-weight yarn mosaic knitting pattern, before being cast off.
Yarn B: approx. 28 (30, 33)m / 30 (32, 34)yds of Crochet stitches are then worked into the cast-off
worsted-weight yarn edge, and the hat transitions into the Star Stitch
Gauge: 18 sts & 36 rounds = 10cm / 4" over brick pattern with decreases worked in pattern to
stitch pattern on 4.5mm needles, after blocking. complete the crown.
10 stars & 13 rounds = 10cm / 4" over Star Stitch
pattern using 4mm hook, after blocking. US crochet terminology used throughout.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

STARGROVE
by Tyra Smith

Stitch Glossary: PATTERN BEGINS

1/1 RPC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at back, Using 3.75mm needles, yarn A and the Italian /
k1, p1 from cable needle. tubular method (starting with a knit st), cast on
88 (96, 100) sts. Do not join.
Brick Stitch Row 1 (RS): [K1, sl1 wyif] to end.
Worked over a multiple of 6 sts Row 2: [Sl1 wyib, p1] to end.
Rounds 1-2: With yarn A, knit. Rearrange sts into 2x2 Rib as foll:
Change to yarn B. Next row (RS): [K1, 1/1 RPC, p1] to end.
Round 3: [K5, sl1 wyib] to end. Do not turn.
Round 4: [P5, sl1 wyib] to end. Join for working in the round being careful not
Rounds 5-6: Rep rounds 3-4. to twist. PM to indicate beg of round.
Change to yarn A.
Rounds 7-8: Knit. Change to 4mm needles.
Change to yarn B. Round 1: [K2, p2] to end.
Round 9: K2, [sl1 wyib, k5] to last 4 sts, Rep round 1 a further 15 times.
sl1 wyib, k3.
Round 10: P2, [sl1 wyib, p5] to last 4 sts, Main Body – Knit Section
sl1 wyib, p3. Change to 4.5mm needles.
Rounds 11-12: Rep rounds 9-10.
Rounds 13-14: Knit. Sizes 1 & 3 ONLY:
Rep rounds 3-14 for pattern. Round 1 (inc): [K44 (50), M1R] twice. 90 (102) sts

Star Stitch: Size 2 ONLY:

Worked over an even number of sts Round 1: Knit.
Note: 2 sc sts is equivalent to 1 star. If swatching
Star Stitch, begin by working an even number of ALL Sizes again
foundation chains, then sl st in first ch to join in Round 2: Knit.
the round. Change to yarn B.
Round 1: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), Round 3: [K5, sl1 wyib] to end.
1sc in each st to end, sl st in top of first st to join. Round 4: [P5, sl1 wyib] to end.
Round 2: Ch3 (counts as part of first star), [insert Rounds 5-6: Rep rounds 3-4.
hook and draw up a loop] in back bump of first Change to yarn A.
ch from the hook and each of next 2 ch, [insert Rounds 7-8: Knit.
hook and draw up a loop] in each of next 2 sts, Change to yarn B.
yo, draw through 6 loops on hook, ch1 (one star Round 9: K2, [sl1 wyib, k5] to last 4 sts, sl1 wyib, k3.
made), *insert hook and draw up a loop in 1-ch Round 10: P2, [sl1 wyib, p5] to last 4 sts, sl1 wyib, p3.
just made, insert hook and draw up a loop in last Rounds 11-12: Rep rounds 9-10.
loop from previous star just made, insert hook Change to yarn A.
and draw up a loop in same st as last loop of star Rounds 13-14: Knit.
just made, [insert hook and draw up a loop] in Rep rounds 3-14 once more.
each of next 2 sts, yo, draw through 6 loops on Cut yarn B.
hook, ch1; rep from * to end of round, insert With yarn A, cast off loosely kwise. Do not
hook and draw up a loop in same st as last loop fasten off.
just made, insert hook and draw up a loop in Note: When you cast off sts, you will have 1 less
second ch of beg 3-ch, draw through 2 loops on cast-off edge st than you did live sts.
hook to join.
Round 3: Ch1, 2sc in each 1-ch sp to end, sl st Main Body – Crochet Section
in first st to join. Insert crochet hook into loop rem from cast-off.
Rep rounds 2-3 for pattern. Sl st in first cast-off edge st to join.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

STARGROVE
by Tyra Smith

Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY: Size 2 ONLY:

Round 1 (inc): Ch1 (does not count as first st), sc Round 3: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout),
in each of next 44 (47) sts, 2sc in next st, sc in each 2sc in each 1-ch sp to end, sl st in first st to join.
of next 44 (47) sts, sl st in first st to join. 90 (96) sts Rounds 4, 6, 8, 10 & 12: Rep round 2.
Round 5 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next three
Size 3 ONLY: 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first
Round 1 (dec): Ch1 (does not count as first st), sc st to join. 12 sts (6 stars) dec
in each of next 49 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, sc in Round 7 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next three
each of next 50 sts, sl st in first st to join. 100 sts 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in each of next
two 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from
ALL sizes again: * to end, sl st in first st to join. 12 sts (6 stars) dec
Round 2: Ch3 (counts as part of first star), [insert Round 9 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next two
hook and draw up a loop] in back bump of first ch 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first
from the hook and each of next 2 ch, [insert hook st to join. 12 sts (6 stars) dec
and draw up a loop] in each of next 2 sts, yo, draw Round 11 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next two
through 6 loops on hook, ch1 (one star made), 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in next 1-ch sp,
*insert hook and draw up a loop in 1-ch just made, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first
insert hook and draw up a loop in last loop from st to join. 12 sts (6 stars) dec
previous star just made, insert hook and draw up Round 13 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in next 1-ch sp, sc in
a loop in same st as last loop of star just made, next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first st to join. 12 sts
[insert hook and draw up a loop] in each of next (6 stars) dec
2 sts, yo, draw through 6 loops on hook, ch1; rep Round 14: Rep round 2. 18 stars
from * to end of round, insert hook and draw up
a loop in same st as last loop just made, insert Size 3 ONLY:
hook and draw up a loop in second ch of beg Round 3 (dec): Ch1 (does not count as st
3-ch, draw through 2 loops on hook to join. throughout), [2sc in each of next four 1-ch sps,
45 (48, 50) stars sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first st to join.
10 sts (5 stars) dec
Size 1 ONLY: Rounds 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 & 14: Rep round 2.
Round 3 (dec): Ch1 (does not count as st Round 5 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next four
throughout), *2sc in each of next four 1-ch sps, 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in each of next
sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in each of next three 1-ch three 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to
sps, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to end, sl st in end, sl st in first st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec
first st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec Round 7 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next three
Rounds 4, 6, 8 & 10: Rep round 2. 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first
Round 5 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next three st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec
1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first Round 9 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next three
st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in each of next
Round 7 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next three two 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to
1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in each of next end, sl st in first st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec
two 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to end, Round 11 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next two
sl st in first st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first
Round 9 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in each of next two st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec
1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first Round 13 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next two
st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec 1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in next 1-ch sp,
Round 11 (dec): Ch1, *2sc in each of next two sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first
1-ch sps, sc in next 1-ch sp, 2sc in next 1-ch sp, st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec
sc in next 1-ch sp; rep from * to end, sl st in first Round 15 (dec): Ch1, [2sc in next 1-ch sp, sc in
st to join. 10 sts (5 stars) dec next 1-ch sp] to end, sl st in first st to join. 10 sts
Round 12: Rep round 2. 20 stars (5 stars) dec
Round 16: Rep round 2. 15 stars

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

STARGROVE
by Tyra Smith

ALL Sizes again: Size 3 ONLY:

Work crown as foll: Round 2 (dec): Ch1, [sc2tog] 7 times, sc in next st,
Round 1 (dec): Ch1 (does not count as first st sl st in first st to join. 8 sts
throughout), sc in each 1-ch sp to end, sl st in first Round 3 (dec): Ch1, [sc2tog] to end, sl st in first st
st to join. 20 (18, 15) sts to join. 4 sts

Size 1 ONLY: ALL sizes again:

Round 2 (dec): Ch1, [sc2tog] to end, sl st in first st Break yarn, leaving a long tail. With tapestry
to join. 10 sts needle, thread tail through rem sts and pull tight
Round 3 (dec): Rep round 2. 5 sts to close.

Size 2 ONLY: FINISHING

Round 2 (dec): Ch1, [sc2tog] to end, sl st in first st Weave in ends and block to measurements.
to join. 9 sts
Round 3 (dec): Ch1, [sc2tog] 4 times, sc in next st,
sl st in first st to join. 5 sts

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10)

Finished chest (fullest point) circumference:
81.5 (93, 98.5, 110.5, 122, 133.5, 139.5, 151, 157,
168.5)cm / 32 (36½, 38¾, 43½, 48, 52½, 54¾, 59½,
61¾, 66¼)" – to be worn with up to 7.5cm / 3"
positive ease
Nick’s height is 163cm / 5' 4" with a chest (fullest
point) circumference of 91cm / 36", and is shown
wearing a size 3.
Yarn: Life in the Long Grass Earth (4-ply /
fingering-weight; 70% superwash Merino, 20%
yak, 10% nylon; 400m / 437yds per 100g skein)
Yarn A: Corrode; 3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 6, 6) skeins
Cosy Posy Yarn Co. Feather (4-ply / fingering-
weight; 90% superwash Merino, 10% linen;
360m / 393yds per 100g skein)
Yarn B: Agate; 1 skein
Yarn C: Hunny Bunny; 1 skein
Little Fox Yarn Vixen (4-ply / fingering-weight;
80% superwash Merino, 20% silk; 360m/400 yds
per 100g skein)
Yarn D: Chasing Blue Skies; 1 skein
OR
Yarn A: approx. 970 (1105, 1200, 1340, 1540,
1685, 1750, 1980, 2050, 2200)m / 1060 (1210,
1310, 1470, 11680, 1840, 1920, 2165, 2250,
2415)yds of 4-ply / fingering-weight yarn.
Yarn B: approx. 151 (175, 185, 199, 222, 240, 258,
277, 295, 314)m / 164 (188, 200, 216, 240, 260, 280,
300, 320, 340)yds of 4-ply / fingering-weight yarn.
Yarn C: approx. 151 (175, 185, 199, 222, 240,
258, 277, 295, 314)m /164 (188, 200, 216, 240,
260, 280, 300, 320, 340)yds of 4-ply / fingering-
weight yarn.
Yarn D: approx. 80 (90, 95, 107, 115, 125, 130,
140, 145, 155)m / 85 (95, 100, 112, 125, 135, 140,
155, 160, 170)yds of 4-ply / fingering-weight yarn.
Gauge: 28 sts & 32 rounds = 10cm / 4" over
stranded colourwork pattern (Chart D) on
3.25mm needles after blocking.
30 sts and 36 rounds = 10cm / 4" over St st on
3.25mm needles after blocking.
Needles: 2.5mm / US 1.5 circular needle, 80cm /
32" length
3mm / US 2.5 circular needles, 40cm / 16" length
and 80cm / 32" length and needles suitable
for working small circumferences in the round
3.25mm / US 3 circular needles, 40cm / 16" length
and 80cm / 32" length and needles suitable for
working small circumferences in the round
Always use a needle size that will result in the
correct gauge after blocking.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Notions: 3 stitch markers (including one unique

for beg of round), stitch holders or scrap yarn,
taspestry needle
Notes: Cladonia is a top-down pullover knit in
the round. There is optional colourwork during
the short rows in the back neck.
The cuffs and hem have an optional folded facing.
If you decide to work the hem facing you can write
a little note to yourself by using the technique
described in the pattern, or in duplicate stitch after
completing the hem facing. A chart of the alphabet
is provided in the digital edition (see download
code on inside cover) so you can create your own
message. Chart A and Charts H 1-3 are worked
flat; all other charts are worked in the round.

Stitch Glossary
3x1 Rib (in the round):
Round 1: [K3, p1] to end.
Rep round 1 for pattern.

ININC: Slip one st as if to purl, then with the

LH needle, coming from behind, pick up the left
leg of the st in the row below the st just slipped
and knit it through the back loop. 1 st inc
Note that this increase affects the stitch count like
a kfb increase: it turns 1 stitch into 2, unlike a yarn
over or make 1, which create a stitch from nothing.

German Short Rows:

Create DS: Bring yarn to front, slip the first stitch
as if to purl, bring yarn over the needle to the
back of your work and pull tight (it will look like
a double stitch = DS)
Resolving Double Stitches: When you encounter
the DS on subsequent rows, work DS in pattern,
inserting needle through both legs of the DS and
treating it as one stitch.

PATTERN BEGINS
Neck Rib
Using shorter 3mm circular needles and yarn A,
cast on 120 (120, 120, 120, 128, 128, 128, 132,
132, 132) sts. Join for working in the round
being careful not to twist sts. PM to indicate
beg of round.
Work 9 rounds in 3x1 rib.
Next round: Knit.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY: Short row 4 (WS): Create DS, p to marker, SM,
Next round (inc): *[K1, ININC] 7 (2) times, work next row of Chart A, SM, p to 9 sts before
k2 (0), ININC; rep from * to last 1 (0) st, k1 (0). DS, turn.
176 (192) sts Working next row of Chart A each time, rep
Short rows 3-4 a further 3 times.
Size 3 ONLY: Next row (RS): Create DS, k to marker, SM, work
Next round (inc): [K1, ININC 3 times] to last last row of Chart A (slipping beg of round marker
8 sts, [k1, ININC] 4 times. 208 sts as you pass it), remove marker, k to marker at beg
of Chart A section resolving DS as you come to
Sizes 4, 5 & 6 ONLY: them, remove marker. Break yarn. Sl next 17 sts
Next round (inc): [K9 (4, 3), ININC] to last 0 to RH needle and re-join yarn A at beg of round.
(8, 0) sts, k0 (8, 0). 132 (152,160) sts
Next round: Knit. YOKE
Next round (inc): [K1, ININC 3 times] 12 (8, 16) Next round: Work round 1 of Chart B 11 (12,
times, [k1, ININC twice] to end. 224 (256, 272) sts 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 22) times to end.
Work rounds 2-13 of Chart B as set. 220 (240,
Sizes 7 & 8 ONLY: 260, 280, 320, 340, 360, 380, 400, 440) sts
Next round (inc): [K3, ININC] to last 0 (4) sts, Work rounds 14-22 of Chart B as set. 286 (312,
k0 (4). 160 (164) sts 338, 364, 416, 442, 468, 494, 520, 572) sts
Next round: Knit. Next round: With yarn A only, k to end and at
Next round (inc): [K1, ININC 4 (6) times] to last the same time evenly inc 2 (0, 6, 4, 0, 6, 4, 2, 0, 4)
0 (3) sts, k0 (1), ININC 0 (2) times. 288 (304) sts sts across the round, being careful not to increase
directly above any ININC from previous round.
Size 9 ONLY: 288 (312, 344, 368, 416, 448, 472, 496, 520, 576) sts
Next round (inc): *[K3, ININC] twice, k2, ININC;
rep from * to end. 168 sts Note: As you work the yoke, different sizes will
Next round: Knit. work different rows of Charts C and D. Ensure
Next round (inc): [K1, ININC 9 times] to last you are following the correct instructions for your
8 sts, ININC 8 times. 320 sts size. If you wish to shorten or lengthen the yoke,
you may follow the row directions for a smaller
Size 10 ONLY: or larger size instead.
Next round (inc): *K2, ININC, [K1, ININC] twice;
rep from * to last 6 sts, [k2, ININC] twice. 188 sts Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY:
Next round: Knit. Work rounds 3-17 of Chart C only, working 8-st
Next round (inc): [K1, ININC 7 times] to last rep 36 (39) times across the round.
4 sts, k1, ININC 3 times. 352 sts
Sizes 3, 4 & 5 ONLY:
ALL sizes again: Work rounds 1-19 of Chart C, working 8-st rep
Change to 3.25mm needles. 43 (46, 52) times across the round.
Next round: Knit.
Sizes 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10 ONLY:
Shape Back Neck with Short Rows: Work rounds 1-13 of Chart C, working 8-st rep
Short row 1 (RS): K18, PM, k60, turn. 56 (59, 62, 65, 72) times across the round.
Short row 2 (WS): Create DS, [p to marker, SM] Rep rounds 8-13 of Chart C once more.
twice, p17, PM, p60, turn. Work rounds 14-19 of Chart C.
Short row 3 (RS): Create DS, k to marker, SM,
work row 1 of Chart A over next 35 sts (slipping ALL sizes again:
beg of round marker as you pass it), SM, k to Next round: With yarn A, knit.
9 sts before DS, turn.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Note: On the next round, if you encounter an BODY

increase where there is a contrasting colour stitch Next round: Using yarn A, knit.
2 rounds below, just move the increase over one Next round: Work round 1 of Chart E 14 (16,
stitch so as not to interfere with the colourwork 17, 19, 21, 23, 24, 26, 27, 29) times to end.
on that round. Work rounds 2-12 of Chart E as set.
NOTE: Read ahead before continuing as you
Sizes 1, 4, 5, 6 & 10 ONLY: will be working two sets of instructions AT
Next round (inc): [K8 (8, 16, 13, 13), ININC] THE SAME TIME.
to last 0 (8, 8, 0, 16) sts, k0 (8, 8, 0, 16). 320
(408, 440, 480, 616) sts Continue in St st using yarn A only until piece
measures 24 (24, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5, 25.5,
Sizes 2, 7, 8 & 9 ONLY: 25.5, 25.5)cm / 9½ (9½, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10,
Next round (inc): [K7 (11, 9, 8), ININC] 36 10)" from underarm, or until piece measures
(38, 40, 52) times, [k5 (7, 11, 12), ININC] to end. 11cm / 4¼" less than desired finished length, and
352 (512, 544, 576) sts AT THE SAME TIME, when body measures 6.5
(6.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5, 7.5)cm / 2½
Size 3 ONLY: (2½, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3)" after division round,
Next round (inc): [K9, ININC, k10, ININC] begin working optional waist shaping as follows:
14 times, [k11, ININC] 4 times, k2. 376 sts Next round: K30, PM, k to last 30 sts, PM, k to end.
Dec round: [K to 3 sts before marker, ssk, k1, SM,
ALL sizes again: k1, k2tog] twice, k to end. 4 sts dec
Next round: With yarn A, knit. Knit 7 rounds.
Rep last 8 rounds a further 3 times. 208 (240,
Sizes 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 & 7 ONLY: 256, 288, 320, 352, 368, 400, 416, 448) sts
Work rounds 1-21 of Chart D, working 8-st rep Inc round: [K to 2 sts before marker, M1R, k2,
40 (44, 47, 51, 55, 60, 64) times across the round. SM, k2, M1L] twice, k to end. 4 sts inc
Knit 9 rounds.
Sizes 8, 9 & 10 ONLY: Rep last 10 rounds a further 2 times, then rep
Work rounds 1-15 of Chart D, working 8-st rep Inc round once more. 224 (256, 272, 304, 336,
68 (72, 77) times across the round. 368, 384, 416, 432, 464) sts
Repeat rounds 8-15 of Chart D once more. Waist shaping is now complete.
Work rounds 16-21 of Chart D. Remove shaping markers.

ALL sizes again: Work straight if necessary to required length,

Divide Body and Sleeves then beg working Chart F as foll:
With yarn A, k49 (56, 61, 68, 75, 82, 86, 93, 97, Next round: Work round 1 of Chart F 28
104), place next 63 (65, 67, 69, 71, 77, 85, 87, (32, 34, 38, 42, 46, 48, 52, 54, 58) times to end.
95, 101) sts on hold for right sleeve, using cable Work rounds 2-22 of Chart F as set.
method cast on 15 (17, 15, 17, 19, 21, 21, 23, 23, With yarn A, knit 2 rounds.
25) sts for underarm, k97 (111, 121, 135, 149,
163, 171, 185, 193, 207) sts for front, place next Hem
63 (65, 67, 69, 71, 77, 85, 87, 95, 101) sts on hold Change to 3mm needles.
for left sleeve, using cable method cast on 15 (17, Work in 3x1 Rib for 4cm / 1½".
15, 17, 19, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25) sts for underarm, Change to yarn B.
k to end. 224 (256, 272, 304, 336, 368, 384, 416, Work 4 more rounds in 3x1 Rib.
432, 464) sts Cast off in rib patt OR continue as foll for
hem with facing:

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Optional hem with message knit across 63 (65, 67, 69, 71, 77, 85, 87, 95, 101)
With yarn B, purl 1 round. held sleeve sts, pick up and knit 1 st in gap, pick
Change to 2.5mm needles. up and knit 8 (9, 8, 9, 10, 11, 11, 12, 12, 13) sts
With yarn B, work 4 rounds in 3x1 Rib. from cast-on edge. PM for beg of round.
With yarn C, knit 3 rounds. 80 (84, 84, 88, 92, 100, 108, 112, 120, 128) sts
NOTE: Directions are provided below for one Next round: With yarn A, knit.
message (Charts H-1, H-2 and H-3), worked over
156 sts in total. If you create a different message, Right Sleeve ONLY:
you will need to calculate the number of sts Round 1: K3 (5, 7, 1, 3, 5, 1, 3, 7, 1), work row 1
needed for your message using the alphabet chart of Chart E to end.
(see digital edition) and adjust the number of sts Note: Stitch 9 of Chart E should align over stitch
on either side of the message accordingly. If you 5 of Chart D. Chart E will not be continuous at
prefer, instead of working colourwork, you may the underarm.
add your message in duplicate stitch after knitting Work rounds 2-12 of Chart E as set.
the back facing in yarn C. You will not need to
move beg of round or work flat if you choose this Left Sleeve ONLY
option, simply work the equivalent number of Round 1: K3 (5, 3, 5, 7, 5, 1, 3, 7, 5), work row 1
rounds in St st. of Chart E to end.
Next round: Break yarn C, remove beg of round Note: Stitch 9 of Chart E should align over stitch
marker and slip next 112 (128, 136, 152, 168, 184, 5 of Chart D. Chart E will not be continuous at
192, 208, 216, 232) sts from LH to RH needle. the underarm.
Rejoin yarn C and PM for new beg of round. Work rounds 2-12 of Chart E as set.
Note: The foll 8 rows are worked back and forth.
Next row (RS): ININC, k33 (49, 57, 73, 89, 105, BOTH sleeves again:
113, 129, 137, 153), PM, work row 1 of Chart H-1, With yarn A, knit 7 rounds.
work row 1 of Chart H-2, work row 1 of Chart Dec round: K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
H-3, PM, k33 (49, 57, 73, 89, 105, 113, 129, 137, 2 sts dec
153), ININC, turn work. 2 sts inc NOTE: Read ahead before continuing, as you
Next row (WS): P to marker, SM, work next row of will be working multiple instructions AT THE
Chart H-3, work next row of Chart H-2, work next SAME TIME.
row of Chart H-1, SM, p to beg of round, turn work.
Next row (RS): K to marker, SM, work next row of Repeat Dec round every 15th (12th, 12th, 10th, 9th,
Chart H-1, work next row of Chart H-2, work next 12th, 9th, 8th, 6th, 5th) round a further 7 (7, 7, 7, 2, 7,
row of Chart H-3, SM, k to beg of round, turn work. 2, 1, 11, 14) times, then every 0 (11th, 11th, 9th, 8th,
Continue as set, working next row of charts each 11th, 8th, 7th, 5th, 4th) rounds 0 (2, 2, 4, 11, 2, 11, 14,
time, until row 8 of Chart H is complete. 8, 9) times. 64 (64, 64, 64, 64, 80, 80, 80, 80, 80) sts
Next round (RS): With yarn C, [k to marker,
remove marker] twice, k to beg of round marker, AT THE SAME TIME, continue in St st using yarn
do not turn work, begin working in the round again. A only until sleeve measures 23.5cm / 9¼" from
Next round: K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog. 2 sts dec underarm, or 22cm / 8¾" less than desired finished
Next round: Knit. length, then begin working Chart G as foll:
Change to yarn A and knit 1 round. Place markers around centre 64 (64, 64, 64, 64, 80,
Cast off loosely with yarn A. 80, 80, 80, 80) sts. Work complete repeats of Chart
G and E between markers and fill in sts outside of
SLEEVES marked centre sts using chart; for example, if there
Using yarn A and 3.25mm needles suitable for are 6 sts between beg of round and first marker,
working small circumferences in the round, beg you would begin on stitch 3 of Chart G. Charts G
at centre of underarm, pick up and knit 7 (8, 7, 8, and E will not be continuous at underarm until
9, 10, 10, 11, 11, 12) sts from cast-on edge, pick up all decreases are complete.
and knit 1 st in gap between underarm and held sts, Work rows 1-37 of Chart G.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Work rows 1-12 of Chart E. Stitch 5 of Chart E a. Chest (fullest point) circumference: 81.5 (93,
should line up over stitch 5 of Chart G. 98.5, 110.5, 122, 133.5, 139.5, 151, 157, 168.5)cm /
With yarn A, knit 2 rounds, or until sleeve 32 (36½, 38¾, 43½, 48, 52½, 54¾, 59½, 61¾, 66¼)"
measures 39.5cm / 15½" or 7.5cm / 3" less than b. Waist circumference: 70.5 (81, 86.5, 97.5,
desired length. 108.5, 119, 124.5, 135.5, 141, 151.5)cm / 27¾
(32, 34, 38½, 42¾, 47, 49, 53¼, 55½, 59¾)"
Cuff c. Neck circumference: 40.5 (40.5, 40.5, 40.5,
Change to 3mm needles. 43.5, 43.5, 43.5, 44.5, 44.5, 44.5)cm / 16 (16, 16,
With yarn A, work 3x1 Rib for 6.5cm / 2½". 16, 17, 17, 17, 17½, 17½, 17½)"
With yarn B, work 4 more rounds in 3x1 Rib. d. Yoke depth: 23 (23, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 26.5, 26.5,
Cast off in rib patt or continue as foll for cuff 29, 29, 29)cm / 9¼ (9¼, 9½, 9½, 9½, 10½, 10½,
with facing: 11½, 11½, 11½)"
e. Length (hem to underarm): 35 (35, 36.5, 36.5,
Optional cuff facing 36.5, 36.5, 36.5, 36.5, 36.5, 36.5)cm / 13¾ (13¾,
Next round: Purl. 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼, 14¼)"
With yarn B, work 3x1 Rib for 4 more rounds. f. Upper arm circumference: 27 (28.5, 28.5, 30,
Change to yarn C and work 3x1 Rib until facing 31, 34, 36.5, 38, 40.5, 43.5)cm / 10¾ (11¼, 11¼,
measures the same length as ribbing. Cast off in patt. 11¾, 12¼, 13¼, 14½, 15, 16, 17)"
g. Cuff circumference: 21.5 (21.5, 21.5, 21.5, 21.5,
FINISHING 27, 27, 27, 27, 27)cm / 8½ (8½, 8½, 8½, 8½, 10¾,
Weave in all ends. Sew any gaps at the underarm. 10¾, 10¾, 10¾, 10¾)"
Sew tiny hole in hem facing closed. Fold hem and h. Sleeve length: 45.5cm / 18"
cuff facings to WS and whip stitch in place. Block
to measurements.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Chart A
35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Chart B Chart C Chart D

20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
22 19 21
21 18 20
20 17 19
19 16 18
18 15 17
17 14 16
16 13 15
15 12 14
14 11 13
13 10 12
12 9 11
11 8 10
10 7 9
9 6 8
8 5 7
7 4 6
6 3 5
5 2 4
4 1 3
3 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2
2 1
1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Chart E Chart F Chart G

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
12 22 37
11 21 36
10 20 35
9 19 34
8 18 33
7 17 32
6 16 31
5 15 30
4 14 29
3 13 28
2 12 27
1 11 26
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 10 25
9 24
8 23
7 22
6 21
5 20
Key 4 19
3 18
kni t
2 17
I N INC 1 16
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 15
Yarn A
14
Yarn B 13
12
Yarn C
11
Yarn D 10
9
S i z es 1 & 2 ONLY: S k ip these r ows
8
R epeated r ows (re f e r to p a t te rn) 7
6
5
4
3
2
1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
82

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

CLADONIA
by Catherine Clark

Chart H-3
52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Chart H-2
51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Chart H-1
53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
RS: Knit wi th main colour (y arn A) RS: Knit wi th c on t r a s t colour (y arn C)
WS: Purl wi th main colour (y arn A) WS: Purl wi th c on t r a s t colour (y arn C)

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8) Gauge: 18 sts & 26 rows = 10cm / 4" over St st

Finished chest (fullest point) circumference: on 4.5mm needles, after blocking.
109 (120, 129, 140, 149, 160, 169, 180)cm / 43¾ 24 sts & 32 rows = 10cm / 4" over 1x1 Twisted
(48¼, 51¾, 56¼, 59¾, 64¼, 67¾, 72¼)" to be Rib on 3.25mm needles, after blocking.
worn with 20-30cm / 7½ -12" positive ease. One 8-st cable motif + 1 purl st to measure
Araba’s height is 173cm / 5' 8" with a chest (fullest 4.5cm / 1¾"
point) circumference of 112cm / 44", and is Needles: 4.5mm / US 7 circular needle,
shown wearing a size 4. 60-100cm / 24-40" length (depending on size
Nick’s height is 163cm / 5' 4" with a chest (fullest worked) and needles suitable for working small
point) circumference of 91cm / 36", and is shown circumferences in the round
wearing a size 2, lengthened by 8cm / 31/4", 3.25mm / US 4 circular needle, 60-100cm /
on page 87. 24-40" length (depending on size worked) and
Yarn: Knitting For Olive Heavy Merino needles suitable for working small circumferences
(worsted-weight, 100% Merino wool; 125m / in the round
137yds per 50g ball) Notions: 10 stitch markers, 4 locking stitch
Shade: Dark Ocher (91008); 8 (9, 9, 10, 11, 11, markers, stitch holders or scrap yarn, cable
12, 13) balls needle, 4 buttons approx. 20mm / ¾" diameter,
Also shown in Rust on page 87. tapestry needle
OR approx. 915 (1005, 1085, 1185, 1270, 1365,
1470, 1550)m / 1000 (1100, 1185, 1300, 1390,
1495, 1605, 1695)yds of worsted-weight yarn.
84

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Notes: Saknes is worked seamlessly from the top 1x1 Twisted Rib (in the round):
down. Back stitches are cast on, the shoulders are Round 1: [K1tbl, p1] to end.
shaped using short rows and then worked straight Rep round 1 for pattern.
down to the underarm. Stitches for each front
shoulder are picked up along the back shoulders 1/1 LC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at front, k1,
and worked separately with increases shaping k1 from cable needle.
the front neckline down to the underarm. Back 1/1 RC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at back, k1,
and front are then joined together and continued k1 from cable needle.
straight in one piece down to the hem. Sleeve 4/4 LC: Sl 4 to cable needle, hold at front, k4,
stitches are picked up around the armholes and k4 from cable needle.
worked in the round down to the cuffs. 4/4 RC: Sl 4 to cable needle, hold at back, k4,
Instructions are for Japanese short rows, but any k4 from cable needle.
short row method can be substituted.
Slip sts wyib unless otherwise stated. CHARTS - WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS
Full written instructions to use instead of charts
Stitch Glossary: are available with the digital version (see inside
Buttonhole cover for download code).
Make a buttonhole on WS across first 10 sts on
Right Front: sl1, p1tbl, k1, p1tbl, sl1 wyif, bring PATTERN BEGINS
yarn to the back, [sl1, psso] twice, slip last st from BACK
RH needle back to LH needle, turn work so that With larger needles and long-tail method, cast on
RS is facing, cast on 3 sts loosely using cable 96 (104, 112, 120, 126, 128, 134, 134) sts.
cast-on method, turn work so that WS is facing, Set-up row (WS): P31 (35, 39, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47),
slip last st from RH needle to LH needle, ssk, place a locking marker between the sts in cast-on
p1tbl, k1, p1tbl. Place a locking stitch marker in row to mark start of neck, p34 (34, 34, 34, 36, 38,
the third st to mark the buttonhole row. 40, 40), place a locking stitch marker between the
sts in cast-on row to mark end of neck, p to end.
Japanese Short Rows Note: Japanese Short Rows used throughout (see
Work to point indicated in pattern. Turn work Stitch Glossary).
and secure yarn with a locking stitch marker. Short row 1 (RS): K to second marker, k8, turn
This will become a loop in the subsequent row work (and secure yarn).
and will be used to close the gap when encountered Short row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to second marker,
like so: pull the locking stitch marker slightly and p8, turn work.
place the loop onto RH needle creating an extra Short row 3: Sl1, k to turn, close gap with k2tog,
stitch and then close the gap. k7, turn work.
To close gap on RS: Short row 4: Sl1 wyif, p to turn, close gap with ssp,
-If next st to work is a purl st, work the loop p7, turn work.
created and st after it together as p2tog. Rep Short rows 3-4 a further 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3)
-If next st to work is a knit st, work the loop times.
created and st after it together as k2tog. Next short row (RS): Sl1, k to turn, close gap with
To close gap on WS: k2tog, k to end.
-If next st to work is a purl st, work the loop Next row (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to turn, close gap with
created and st after it together as ssp. ssp, p to end.
-If next st to work is a knit st, work the loop Work straight in St st for a further 42 (42, 44, 48,
created and st after it together as ssk. 50, 48, 52, 46) rows.

1x1 Twisted Rib (worked flat): Sizes 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:

Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to last st, p1. Next row (RS)(inc): K2, M1R, k to last 2 sts, M1L,
Row 2 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1. k2. 2 sts inc
Rep rows 1-2 for pattern. Next row (WS): Purl.
Rep last 2 rows a further - (0, 0, 1, 1, 4, 4, 7) times.
– (106, 114, 124, 130, 138, 144, 150) sts

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

ALL sizes again: Row 10 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker,
Place sts on hold and break yarn. SM, k1, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1,
SM, p7, close gap with ssp, p to end.
RIGHT FRONT
With RS facing, using larger needles and beg at Sizes 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
the armhole edge of right back shoulder, pick up Short rows 8-9: Work as for “Sizes 3 & 4 ONLY”
and knit 31 (35, 39, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts along above. 61 (61, 63, 63) sts
back cast-on edge (to first locking marker), Short row 10: Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to maker, SM,
remove locking marker that marked start of neck. k1, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM,
Using backwards loop method, cast on 10 sts for p7, close gap with ssp, p7, turn work.
button band. 41 (45, 49, 53, 55, 55, 57, 57) sts Short row 11: Sl1, k to marker, SM, p1, 1/1 RC,
Set-up row (WS): Sl1, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, PM, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, SM,
k1, M1P, p7, k1, M1P, p1, k4, p2, k1, M1P, p7, k3, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end.
k1, PM, p to end. 44 (48, 52, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60) sts Row 12 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to maker, SM,
Short row 1 (RS): K to marker, SM, p1, k8, p1, p3, SM, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1,
1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1, SM, M1L, PM, SM, p15, close gap with ssp, p to end.
[k1tbl, p1] to end. 1 st inc
Short row 2 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker, ALL sizes again
SM, p1, SM, k1, p8, turn work (and secure yarn). Next row (RS): K to marker, SM, p1, work row
Short row 3: Sl1, k7, p1, SM, k1, SM, [k1tbl, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3) of Chart A, p1, work row 1 (1,
to end. 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3) of Chart B, p1, work row 1 (1, 1, 1,
Short row 4: Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker, 3, 3, 3, 3) of Chart A, p1, SM, work row 1 (1, 1, 1,
SM, p1, SM, k1, p8, close gap with ssk, p2, k4, 3, 3, 3, 3) of Chart C, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end.
p2, turn work. Next row (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to maker,
Short row 5: 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, 4/4 LC, SM, work next row of Chart C, SM, p1, work next
p1, SM, k1, M1L, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end. 1 st inc row of Chart A, p1, work next row of Chart B, p1,
Short row 6: Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker, work next row of Chart A, p1, SM, p to end.
SM, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, close gap with Last two rows set patt. Work in patt for a further
ssk, p8, turn work. 38 (38, 42, 46, 48, 46, 50, 44) rows, working next
Short row 7 (RS): Sl1, k7, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, row of charts each time, ending with Chart C row
p1, k8, p1, SM, 1/1 RC, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end. 40 (40, 44, 48, 52, 50, 54, 48) and row 20 (20, 4, 8,
12, 10, 14, 8) of Charts A/B. 58 (62, 67, 72, 76, 75,
Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY: 79, 76) sts
Row 8 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker,
SM, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, close Sizes 2, 3 & 4 ONLY:
gap with ssk, SM, p to end. Next row (RS)(inc): K2, M1R, patt to end. 1 st inc
Row 9 (RS): K to marker, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, Next row (WS): Patt to end.
p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1, SM, 1/1 RC, M1P, SM, Rep last 2 rows a further 0 (0, 1) times. 63 (68,
[k1tbl, p1] to end. 47 (51) sts 76) sts
Row 10 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker,
SM, k1, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, Sizes 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
k1, SM, p to end. Next row (RS)(inc): K2, M1R, patt to end. 1 st inc
Next row (WS): Patt to end.
Sizes 3 & 4 ONLY: Rep last 2 rows a further 0 (2, 1, 4) times. 78 (81,
Short row 8 (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to 83, 86) sts
marker, SM, p2, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, Next row (RS)(inc): K2, M1R, k to marker, SM,
p8, close gap with ssk, SM, p7, turn work. p1, work Chart A, p1, work Chart B, p1, work
Short row 9 (RS): Sl1, k6, SM, p1, k8, p1, Chart A, p1, remove marker, work Chart B (beg
1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1, SM, 1/1 RC, M1P, with correct row to maintain pattern), p1, work
SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end. 55 (59) sts Chart A, p1, remove marker, p to marker, SM,
[k1tbl, p1] to end. 1 st inc

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Next row (WS): Make a buttonhole, SM, k2 (3, 4, Last 2 rows set patt. Continue in patt until you
4), work Chart A, k1, work Chart B, SM, k1, work have worked to the end of back neck (marked
Chart A, k1, work Chart B, k1, work Chart A, k1, with locking stitch marker), skipping every 4th
SM, p to end. cast-on st and ending with a WS row.
Maintaining new patt as set, rep last 2 rows a
further 0 (1, 2, 2) times but DO NOT make a Change to larger needles.
buttonhole at beg of WS rows, instead work: sl1, Next row (RS): Sl1 wyif, [k1tbl, p1] 4 times,
p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker. 79 (83, 86, 89) sts k1tbl, remove locking marker, PM, pick up and
knit 31 (35, 39, 43, 45, 45, 47, 47) sts along back
ALL sizes again left shoulder cast-on edge. 41 (45, 49, 53, 55, 55,
Make a note of the Chart A & B rows worked in 57, 57) sts
the last round as you will need to continue with Set-up row (WS): P6 (10, 14, 18, 20, 20, 22, 22),
the next row when joining all pieces. Place sts on PM, k1, p7, M1P, k1, p2, k4, p1, M1P, k1, p7,
hold and break yarn. M1P, k1, PM, [p1tbl, k1] to last 2 sts, p1tbl, p1.
44 (48, 52, 56, 58, 58, 60, 60) sts
BACK NECKBAND AND LEFT FRONT Short row 1 (RS): Sl1 wyif, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to
With RS facing and using smaller needles, beg at marker, SM, M1R, PM, p1, k8, turn work (and
the cast-on edge of the Right button band, pick up secure yarn). 1 st inc
and knit 10 sts along the cast-on edge. Short row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p7, k1, SM, p1, SM,
Row 1 (WS): Sl1 wyif, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1. p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
Row 2 (RS): Sl1, [k1tbl, p1] 4 times, sl1, insert LH Short row 3: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
needle through next cast-on st of Back from RS to SM, k1, SM, p1, k8, close gap with p2tog, 1/1 RC,
WS creating a st on LH needle, slip first st on RH p4, 1/1 LC, turn work.
needle back onto LH needle and k2tog tbl.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Short row 4: Sl1 wyif, p1, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, Sizes 3 & 4 ONLY:
p1, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1. Short row 7 (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
Short row 5: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, SM, SM, 1/1 LC, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC,
M1R, k1, SM, p1, 4/4 RC, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, close gap with p2tog, SM, k7, turn work.
close gap with p2tog, k8, turn work. 1 st inc Short row 8 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to marker, SM, k1,
Short row 6 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p7, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, p2, SM, p1tbl,
p8, k1, SM, p2, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1. [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
Row 9: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, SM,
Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY: M1P, 1/1 LC, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC,
Row 7 (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, p1, k8, p1, SM, k7, close gap with k2tog, k to end.
SM, 1/1 LC, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, 55 (59) sts
p1, k8, close gap with p2tog, SM, k to end. Row 10 (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2,
Row 8 (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, p2, k1, SM, p1tbl, [k1,
p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, p2, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to p1tbl] to last st, p1.
last st, p1.
Row 9: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, SM, Sizes 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
M1P, 1/1 LC, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, Short rows 7-8: Work as for “Sizes 3 & 4 ONLY”
p1, k8, p1, SM, k to end. 47 (51) sts above.
Row 10 (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, p8, k1, p2, Short row 9: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, p2, k1, SM, p1tbl, [k1, SM, M1P, 1/1 LC, SM, p1, k8, p1, 1/1 RC, p4,
p1tbl] to last st, p1. 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1, SM, k7, close gap with k2tog,
k7, turn work. 61 (61, 63, 63) sts
Short row 10: Sl1 wyif, p to marker, SM, k1, p8,
k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, p8, k1, SM, p2, k1, SM, p1tbl,
[k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
Row 11: Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, SM,
k3, SM, k1, 1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, k8, p1,
1/1 RC, p4, 1/1 LC, p1, SM, k15, close gap with
k2tog, k to end.
Row 12 (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, p2, k4, p2,
k1, p8, k1, p2, k4, p2, k1, SM, p3, SM, p1tbl,
[k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.

ALL sizes again:

Next row (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
SM, work row 1 (1, 1, 1, 3, 3, 3, 3) of Chart D,
SM, p1, work row 11 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13, 13)
of Chart B, p1, work row 11 (11, 11, 11, 13, 13,
13, 13) of Chart A, p1, work row 11 (11, 11, 11,
13, 13, 13, 13) of Chart B, p1, SM, k to end.
Next row (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, work next
row of Chart B, k1, work next row of Chart A, k1,
work next row of Chart B, k1, SM, work next row
of Chart D, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
Last two rows set patt. Work in patt for a further
38 (38, 42, 46, 48, 46, 50, 44) rows, working next
row of charts each time, ending with Chart D row
40 (40, 44, 48, 52, 50, 54, 48) and row 20 (20, 4,
8, 12, 10, 14, 8) of Charts A/B. 58 (62, 67, 72, 76,
75, 79, 76) sts

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Sizes 2, 3 & 4 ONLY: Next row (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker,
Next row (RS)(inc): Patt to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. SM, work Chart C, SM, p1, work Chart A, p1,
1 st inc work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1, SM, p to
Next row (WS): Patt to end 1 st before side marker, k1, SM, [p to marker,
Rep last 2 rows a further 0 (0, 1) times. 63 (68, SM, k1] twice, work Chart B, k1, work Chart A,
76) sts k1, work Chart B, k1, SM, work Chart D, SM,
p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
Sizes 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY: Last two rows set patt. Work in patt for a further
Next row (RS)(inc): Patt to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. 10 (8, 4) rows, working next row of charts each
1 st inc time, ending with row 52 of Charts C / D.
Next row (WS): Patt to end. 220 (240, 256) sts
Rep last 2 rows a further 0 (2, 1, 4) times. 78 (81, Next row (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
83, 86) sts SM, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, remove
Next row (RS)(inc): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1,
marker, SM, p1 (2, 3, 3), remove marker, p1, work Chart B, p1, SM, k to 1 st before marker, p1,
work Chart B (beg with correct row to maintain SM, [k to marker, SM, p1] twice, work Chart A,
pattern), p1, work Chart A, SM, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1, remove
p1, work Chart A, p1, work Chart B, p1, SM, marker, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1, SM,
k to last 2 sts, M1L, k2. 1 st inc [k1tbl, p1] to end.
Next row (WS): P to marker, SM, k1, work
Chart B, k1, work Chart A, k1, work Chart B, Sizes 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
k1, SM, work Chart A, k1, work Chart B, k to Next row (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
marker, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1. SM, p1 (2, 3, 4, 4), work Chart B, p1, work Chart A,
Maintaining new patt as set, rep last 2 rows a SM, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1, work
further 0 (1, 2, 2) times. 79 (83, 86, 89) sts Chart B, p1, SM, k to end of Left Front, cast on 0
(1, 2, 3, 5) sts using backwards loop cast-on, PM
ALL sizes again: for side, cast on 0 (1, 2, 3, 5) sts using backwards
Join Fronts and Back as foll: loop cast-on, working across held Back sts, k17
NOTE: Markers can be placed in the next row (18, 19, 20, 22), PM for waist shaping (optional),
where indicated for working waist shaping if k to last 17 (18, 19, 20, 22) sts of Back, PM for
desired. Note that these waist shaping markers waist shaping (optional), k to end of Back, cast on
will not be referred to again until waist shaping 0 (1, 2, 3, 5) sts using backwards loop cast-on, PM
begins later on; slip these markers as you pass for side, cast on 0 (1, 2, 3, 5) sts using backwards
them on subsequent rows. It is a good idea to use loop cast-on, working across held Right Front sts,
a distinct type of marker for the waist shaping k to marker, SM, p1, work Chart A, p1, work Chart B,
points to avoid confusion with the other markers. p1, work Chart A, p1, SM, work Chart B, p1, work
Chart A, p to marker, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end. 276
Sizes 1, 2 & 3 ONLY: (292, 312, 328, 348) sts
Next row (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker,
SM, work Chart D, SM, p1, work next row of ALL sizes again
Chart B, p1, work Chart A, p1, work Chart B, NOTE: Sizes 1, 2, 3 & 4 ONLY, make a buttonhole
p1, SM, k to last st of Left Front, p1, PM for side, at beg of next row.
working across held Back sts, k13 (14, 15), PM for Next row (WS): Sl1, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to marker
waist shaping (optional), k to last 13 (14, 15) sts (OR make a buttonhole if appropriate), SM, k1
of Back, PM for waist shaping (optional), k to end (1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4), [work Chart A, k1, work Chart B,
of Back, PM for side, working across held Right k1] twice, work Chart A, k1, SM, p to 1 st before
Front sts, p1, k to marker, SM, p1, work next row marker, k1, SM, [p to marker, SM, k1] twice, [work
of Chart A, p1, work Chart B, p1, work Chart A, Chart B, k1, work Chart A, k1] twice, work Chart B,
p1, SM, work Chart C, SM, [k1tbl, p1] to end. k to marker, SM, p1tbl, [k1, p1tbl] to last st, p1.
212 (234, 252) sts

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Next row (RS): Sl1, k1tbl, [p1, k1tbl] to marker, p1] to 2 sts before the third marker (right side)
SM, p1 (1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 4, 4), [work Chart B, p1, from the end (removing any other markers
work Chart A, p1] twice, p1, work Chart B, p1, encountered), k2togtbl, remove marker, [p1,
SM, k to 1 st before marker, p1, SM, [k to marker, k1tbl] to marker, remove marker, [p2tog, k1tbl,
SM, p1] twice, work Chart A, [p1, work Chart B, (p1, k1tbl) 3 times] to marker, remove marker,
p1, work Chart A] twice, p to marker, SM, [k1tbl, p1, [k1tbl, p1] to end.
p1] to end.
Last two rows set patt. Read ahead before continuing, Otherwise, work 1x1 Twisted Rib to 2 sts before
as you will be working multiple sets of instructions the second marker (right side) from the end
AT THE SAME TIME. (removing any other markers encountered),
Continue in patt and: k2togtbl, remove marker, p1, [k1tbl, p1] to end.
1. Work another buttonhole 9 (10, 10, 10, 10,
10, 10, 10)cm / 3¾ (4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4)" after Stitch count with waist shaping: 189 (205, 221,
previous buttonhole. 241, 257, 273, 289, 309) sts
2. AT THE SAME TIME, when you have Stitch count without waist shaping: 209 (229,
completed a full rep (20 rows) of Chart B and 245, 265, 281, 301, 317, 337) sts
half rep (10 rows) of Chart A across the cable that
is closest to the side marker, transition cables to St Next row (WS): Make a buttonhole, work 1x1
st on the next RS row as foll: Twisted Rib to end.
-On Left Front: Work as instructed to 9 sts before Continue in 1x1 Twisted Rib until hem measures
marker that denotes end of cable panel, PM, k7, 7.5cm / 3" from beg of 1x1 Twisted Rib, ending
ssk, remove marker, continue as instructed. 1 st dec with a RS row.
-On Right Front: Work as instructed to the marker Next row (WS): Make a buttonhole, work 1x1
that denotes the start of the cabled panel, remove Twisted Rib to end.
marker, k2tog, k7, PM, continue as instructed. Work a further 3 rows in 1x1 Twisted Rib.
1 st dec Cast off loosely in patt on WS.
Work in St st across these sts in subsequent rows.
Rep this transition for the rest of the cables every SLEEVES
10 rows from the previous transition. These Using larger needles suitable for working small
transitions should always coincide with row 11 circumferences in the round, with RS facing and
of Chart A and row 1 of Chart B. Do not PM beg at centre of underarm (the purl “seam”),
when transitioning the final cable. pick up and knit 68 (72, 76, 84, 92, 100, 106, 110)
3. AT THE SAME TIME, if desired, begin working sts evenly around the armhole, at a rate of 1 st per
waist shaping on same row as first cable transition cast-off st and approx. 3 sts per every 4 rows. Join
as foll: to work in the round and PM for beg of round.
Dec row (RS): Patt to 3 sts before side marker,
ssk, p1, SM, k to waist shaping marker, SM, k2tog, Sizes 2 & 3 ONLY:
k to 2 sts before waist shaping marker, ssk, SM, Short row 1 (RS): P1, k to last 5 sts, turn work
k to side marker, SM, p1, k2tog, patt to end. 4 waist (and secure yarn).
sts dec Short row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to last 5 sts, turn work.
Rep Dec row every 6th row a further 4 (5, 5, 5, 5, 6, Next round: Sl1, k to beg of round, closing short
6, 6) times. 16 (20, 20, 20, 20, 24, 24, 24) waist sts dec row gap with k2tog.

AT THE SAME TIME, when the piece measures Sizes 4, 5, 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
17.5 (19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19, 19)cm / 7 (7¾, 7¾, Short row 1 (RS): P1, k to last 7 (7, 11, 11, 15) sts,
7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾)" from first buttonhole, turn work (and secure yarn).
ending with a WS row, change to smaller needles. Short row 2 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to last 7 (7, 11, 11,
15) sts, turn work.
If there are any cables remaining to transition, Short row 3 (RS): Sl1, k to turn, close gap with
work the next row as follows: Sl1, [p1, k1tbl] to k2tog, k1, turn work.
marker, remove marker, p1, [(k1tbl, p1) 3 times, Short row 4 (WS): Sl1 wyif, p to turn, close gap
k1tbl, p2tog] to marker, remove marker, [k1tbl, with ssp, p1, turn work.

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Rep Short rows 3-4 a further 1 (1, 3, 3, 5) times. FINISHING

Next round: Sl1, k to beg of round, closing short Weave in ends and block to measurements.
row gap with k2tog. Sew on buttons.

ALL sizes again: a. Chest circumference: 109 (120, 129, 140,

NOTE: For all sizes except size 1, as you work the 149, 160, 169, 180)cm / 43¾ (48¼, 51¾, 56¼,
next round you will have to close the last short 59¾, 64¼, 67¾, 72¼)"
row gap. If using Japanese short rows, work as b. Back neck width: 19 (19, 19, 19, 20, 21, 22,
instructed to 1 st before turn, and then slip the 22)cm / 7½ (7½, 7½, 7½, 8, 8½, 9, 9)"
next st as if to knit, pull the locking marker slightly c. Neck depth: 24.5 (24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26, 27,
and place the loop onto RH needle creating an 27)cm / 9¾ (9¾, 9¾, 9¾, 10¼, 10½, 10¾, 10¾)"
extra st. Slide the slipped st from RH needle back d. Armhole depth: 17.5 (18.5, 19, 21.5, 22.5, 24,
to LH needle and k2tog tbl. 25.5, 25.5)cm / 7 (7½, 7¾, 8½, 9, 9½, 10¼, 10¼)"
Next round: P1, k to end. e. Length (first button to hem): 17.5 (19, 19, 19,
Last round sets patt. Work a further 5 (7, 7, 7, 6, 19, 19, 19, 19)cm / 7 (7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾, 7¾)"
8, 4, 2) rounds in patt. f. Sleeve length to underarm: 42.5 (43.5, 43.5,
Note: More rounds may be worked here to add 43.5, 44, 44, 44, 44.5)cm / 17 (17½, 17½, 17½,
sleeve length. 17½, 17¾, 17¾, 17¾)"
Dec round: P1, k1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. g. Upper arm circumference: 38 (40, 42, 46.5, 51,
2 sts dec 55.5, 59, 61)cm / 15 (16, 17, 18¾, 20½, 22¼, 23½,
Rep Dec round every 11th (9th, 8th, 6th, 5th, 4th, 24½)"
4th, 4th) round a further 7 (8, 9, 12, 15, 18, 20, 22) h. Wrist circumference: 21.5 (22.5, 23.5, 24, 25,
times. 52 (54, 56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 64) sts 26, 26.5, 26.5)cm / 8¾ (9, 9¼, 9¾, 10, 10¼, 10¾,
Work straight in patt for 5 (8, 8, 8, 7, 9, 5, 0) 10¾)"
rounds, or until sleeve measures 8cm / 3¼" less i. Waist circumference (with shaping): 74 (80.5,
than desired length. 87.5, 95.5, 102.5, 109, 115.5, 124)cm / 29¾ (32¼,
Change to smaller needles. 35, 38¼, 41, 43¾, 46¼, 49¾)"
Next round: Remove marker, p1, replace marker Waist circumference (without shaping): 82.5
for new beg of round, work 1x1 Twisted Rib to end. (90.5, 97.5, 105.5, 112.5, 120.5, 127.5, 135.5)cm /
Work 1x1 Twisted Rib for 8cm / 3¼". Cast off 33 (36¼, 39, 42¼, 45, 48¼, 51, 54¼)"
loosely in patt.

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Key Chart A Chart B

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
R S: kni t
WS: p u r l 20 20
R S: p u r l 19 19
WS: kni t 18 18
R S: M1 L 17 17
16 16
R S: M1 R 15 15
14 14
R S: M1 P
13 13
1/ 1 RC 12 12
11 11
1/ 1 LC 10 10
9 9
4 / 4 LC
8 8
4 / 4 RC 7 7
6 6
Pl ace m ar k e r
(slip thi s m a r ker on f ol l r ows ) 5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

M O O N
Ki yomi & Sachi ko Bur gi n

A N D

k n i t t i n g

p a t t e r n s

w i t h

v a r i a t i o n s

Now available at pompommag.com

and your local yarn store.
pompommag.com/moon-and-turtle

SAKNES
by Zanete Hussain

Chart C Chart D
21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
58 58
57 57
56 56
55 55
54 54
53 53
52 52
51 51
50 50
49 49
48 48
47 47
46 46
45 45
44 44
43 43
42 42
41 41
40 40
39 39
38 38
37 37
36 36
35 35
34 34
33 33
32 32
31 31
30 30
29 29
28 28
27 27
26 26
25 25
24 24
23 23
22 22
21 21
20 20
19 19
18 18
17 17
16 16
15 15
14 14
13 13
12 12
11 11
10 10
9 9
8 8
7 7
6 6
5 5
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

BROCÉLIANDE
by Audrey Borrego

Sizes: 1 (2, 3) PATTERN BEGINS

Finished circumference: 40 (45, 50)cm / 15¾ Using the long-tail method, cast-on 23 sts.
(17¾, 19¾)" - to be worn with 10cm / 4" negative ease. Set-up row (WS): Purl.
Araba wears size 2. Work in Waffle Rib until piece measures 40
Yarn: Katia Concept Cotton-Merino (aran-weight; (45, 50)cm / 15¾ (17¾, 19¾)" from cast-on edge,
70% cotton, 30% Merino; 105m / 115yds per or desired length, ending with row 4 of pattern.
50g ball)
Shade: 138; 1 ball Cast off all sts kwise, leaving a 40cm / 16" tail
OR approx 60 (70, 80)m / 66 (77, 88)yds of for seaming.
aran-weight yarn.
Gauge: 21 sts & 22 rows = 10cm / 4" over FINISHING
waffle rib on 4mm needles, after blocking. Block the headband.
Needles: 4mm / US 6 knitting needles Knotted Seam
Always use a needle size that will result in Place a locking stitch marker in the middle of
the correct gauge after blocking. the cast-off edge.
Notions: 1 locking stitch marker, tapestry needle With RS facing and holding the headband vertically
Notes: Brocéliande is knitted flat to the required with the cast-off edge (where the marker is placed)
length; the cast-on and cast-off edges are then at the top and the cast-on edge at the bottom, fold
seamed together to close the headband and headband as foll:
create the knot. Bring the bottom left-hand corner up and place it
on the marker at the centre of the cast-off edge. Now
Stitch Glossary: fold the left-hand side of the cast-off edge towards
Waffle Rib (worked flat): the front, over the cast-on edge just pulled up.
Worked over a multiple of 3 sts + 2 Finally, fold the right-hand side of the cast-on edge
Row 1 (RS): [P2, sl1 pwise wyib] to last 2 sts, p2. towards the back, over the cast-off edge, until its
Row 2 (WS): [K2, sl1 pwise wyif] to last 2 sts, k2. corner meets at the marker as well. There are now
Row 3 (RS): Knit. four layers of fabric folded together. Thread the long
Row 4 (WS): Purl. tail of yarn through a tapestry needle, and start
Rep rows 1-4 for pattern. seaming the four layers together, going back and
forth through the edges of each layer to join them.
A tutorial demonstrating how to work the
Knotted Seam is available here: bit.ly/3gxo8HC Once the seam is completed, weave in all ends
and flip the headband RS out.

ALSIA
by Reed Keyes

Hooks: 4mm / US 6 crochet hook

Always use a hook size that will result in the
correct gauge after blocking.
Notions: 8 removable stitch markers, scissors,
tapestry needle, safety pins or locking stitch
markers (optional, 10-12 recommended)
Notes: Alsia is worked flat in pieces from the
bottom up and seamed. Hem and cuff ribbing is
worked lengthwise to desired width, then stitches
are worked widthwise across long edge of ribbing
to desired length. Decreases shape the shoulders.
Shoulder detail is worked across decrease edges,
with additional decreases for back and front neck
shaping. Shoulders are joined before starting the
collar, which is worked directly around neckline,
back and forth in the round, to the desired height.
Collar is then folded in half to inside of work and
the edge is loosely stitched down to secure. Be sure
not to pull yarn tight when stitching to help keep
neckline stretchy. Sleeves are attached to body
before seaming side body and sleeves.
Garment as written is hip-length. For a more
cropped garment, begin back/front shaping sooner.
For a longer garment, work more rows before shaping.
Sleeves are designed to be full-length. If a shorter
sleeve is desired, work fewer rows between
increases to ensure full number of increases is
completed. For a closer-fitting sleeve, work a
smaller sleeve size. For a looser-fitting sleeve,
work a larger size. If working a different size sleeve
than body, work length to back/front shaping that
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) corresponds with sleeve size to ensure armhole is
Finished chest (fullest point) circumference: the correct size for sleeve worked.
96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137, 147.5, 157.5, 167.5, Additional yarn will be needed if adding length
178, 188)cm / 38 (42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, or adjusting sleeve size.
74)" - to be worn with 10-30.5cm / 4-12" of
positive ease. US crochet terminology used throughout.
Nick’s height is 163cm / 5' 4" with a chest (fullest
point) circumference of 91cm / 36", and is shown Stitch Glossary
wearing a size 2. Seam Detail (worked on WS): Ch2 (does not
Yarn: Bouclelaine Ouessant (4-ply / fingering- count as st), beg between first and second sc,
weight; 100% wool; 400m / 436yds per 100g skein) work 1fpsc in each sc to last st, 1sc in last st, turn.
Shade: Bourgeon de Printemps; 5 (6, 6, 7, 7, 8,
8, 9, 10, 10) skeins Fpsc (Front Post Single Crochet): Insert hook
OR approx 1823 (2014, 2225, 2492, 2692, 2921, from front to back then from back to front,
3164, 3402, 3689, 3909)m / 1994 (2203, 2433, behind post between next two sts of row below
2725, 2944, 3194, 3460, 3721, 4034, 4275)yds (post should be in front of hook), yo and draw
of 4-ply / fingering-weight yarn. loop through, yo and draw through two rem loops.
Gauge: 24 sts & 23 rows = 10cm / 4" over
Textured Stitch using 4mm hook after blocking. Esc (Extended Single Crochet): Insert hook in st,
28 sts & 20 rows = 10cm / 4" over Single Crochet yo and draw loop through, yo and draw through first
Ribbing using 4mm hook after blocking. loop only, yo and draw through both loops on hook.

ALSIA
by Reed Keyes

Esc dec (Invisible Extended Single Crochet PATTERN BEGINS

Decrease): Insert hook through back loop only BACK
of next two sts, yo and draw through two loops, ** Hem
yo and draw through one loop, yo and draw Ch 13 (13, 13, 16, 16, 16, 19, 19, 19, 19) sts.
through two rem loops. Work Single Crochet Ribbing until piece measures
48 (53.5, 58.5, 63.5, 68.5, 73.5, 79, 84, 89, 94)cm /
Sc dec (Invisible Single Crochet Decrease): 19 (21, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 35, 37)" when slightly
Insert hook through front loop only of next two stretched, ending with a RS row. Do not turn at end
sts, yo and draw through two loops, yo and draw of final row. 12 (12, 12, 15, 15, 15, 18, 18, 18, 18) sts
through two rem loops.
Body
Esc dbl dec (Invisible Extended Single Crochet With RS facing, ch1 (does not count as a st),
Double Decrease): Insert hook through back work 116 (128, 140, 152, 164, 176, 188, 200, 212,
loop only of next three sts, yo and draw through 224) sc evenly across long edge of Hem, turn.
three loops, yo and draw through one loop, Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 116 (128,
yo and draw through two rem loops. 140, 152, 164, 176, 188, 200, 212, 224) sts
Work in Textured Stitch until piece measures
Sc dbl dec (Invisible Single Crochet Double 35.5cm / 14" from bottom edge, ending with a
Decrease): Insert hook through front loop only WS row, or desired length to underarm. Place
of next three sts, yo and draw through three loops, removable stitch markers in first and last st of
yo and draw through two rem loops. next row to mark underarm.
Work in patt for a further 11.5 (12.5, 13.5, 16,
Single Crochet Ribbing: 16, 17, 18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21) cm / 4½ (5, 5¼, 6¼,
Row 1 (RS): Beg in second ch from hook, work 6¼, 6¾, 7¼, 7¾, 8, 8¼)"
1sc in each ch to end, turn. from underarm markers, ending with a WS row.
Row 2 (WS): Ch1 (does not count as a st), work Place removable stitch markers in first and last
1sc BLO in each st to end, turn. st of next row to indicate start of right and left
Rep rows 1-2 for patt. shoulder shaping.

Textured Stitch: Shoulder Shaping

Row 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throughout) Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and work
work 1esc BLO in each st to end, turn. shaping as foll:
Row 2 (WS): Ch1, work 1sc FLO in each st to Row 1 (RS)(dec): Ch2 (does not count as a st
end, turn. throughout), esc dbl dec, patt to last 3 sts, esc
Rep rows 1-2 for patt. dbl dec, turn. 4 sts dec

ALSIA
by Reed Keyes

Row 2 (WS)(dec): Ch2, sc dbl dec, patt to last Sizes 1, 3, 5, 7 & 9 ONLY:
3 sts, sc dbl dec, turn. 4 sts dec ** Next row (RS): Rep Dec row 1, do not turn. 32 sts
Rep rows 1-2 a further 11 (12, 14, 15, 17, 18, Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10 ONLY:
20, 21, 23, 24) times. 20 (24, 20, 24, 20, 24, 20, Next row (RS): Work Textured Stitch to end,
24, 20, 24) sts do not turn.
Sizes 1, 3, 5, 7 & 9 ONLY:
Next row (RS): Work Textured Stitch to end, ALL sizes again:
do not turn. Front Right Shoulder
Sizes 2, 4, 6, 8 & 10 ONLY: With RS facing, ch2 (does not count as a st),
Next row (RS): Rep row 1, do not turn. 20 sts sc into left edge of last esc worked, work 41 (47,
53, 59, 65, 71, 77, 83, 89, 95) sc evenly across
ALL sizes again: decrease edge to stitch marker indicating beg of
Back Left Shoulder shoulder shaping, turn.
With RS facing, ch2 (does not count as a st), Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 42 (48, 54,
sc into left edge of last esc worked, work 49 (57, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96) sts
61, 69, 73, 81, 85, 93, 97, 105) sc evenly across Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and dec as foll:
decrease edge to stitch marker indicating beg Row 1 (RS)(dec): Ch2 (does not count as a st),
of shoulder shaping, turn. esc dec, patt to end, turn. 1 st dec
Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 50 (58, 62, Row 2 (WS): Ch1 (does not count as a st), patt
70, 74, 82, 86, 94, 98, 106) sts to end, turn.
Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and dec as foll: Rep rows 1-2 a further 5 (3, 5, 3, 8, 6, 8, 6, 11, 9)
Row 1 (RS)(dec): Ch2 (does not count as a st), times. 36 (44, 48, 56, 57, 65, 69, 77, 78, 86) sts
esc dbl dec, patt to end, turn. 2 sts dec Work straight in Textured Stitch patt for a further
Row 2 (WS)(dec): Ch1 (does not count as a st), 6 (10, 6, 12, 2, 6, 4, 8, 0, 4) rows.
patt to last 2 sts, sc dec, turn. 1 st dec Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for seaming.
Rep rows 1-2 a further 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5)
times, then rep row 1 once more. 36 (44, 48, Front Left Shoulder
56, 57, 65, 69, 77, 78, 86) sts With RS facing, join yarn at stitch marker indicating
Fasten off. beg of left shoulder shaping, ch2 (does not count
as a st), work 42 (48, 54, 60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96)
Back Right Shoulder sc evenly across decrease edge, turn.
With RS facing, join yarn at stitch marker indicating Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 42 (48, 54,
beg of right shoulder shaping, ch2 (does not count 60, 66, 72, 78, 84, 90, 96) sts
as a st), work 50 (58, 62, 70, 74, 82, 86, 94, 98, 106) Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and dec as foll:
sc evenly across decrease edge, turn. Row 1 (RS)(dec): Ch1 (does not count as a st),
Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 50 (58, 62, 70, patt to last 2 sts, esc dec, turn. 1 st dec
74, 82, 86, 94, 98, 106) sts Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as a st), patt
Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and dec as foll: to end, turn.
Row 1 (RS)(dec): Ch1 (does not count as a st), Rep rows 1-2 a further 5 (3, 5, 3, 8, 6, 8, 6, 11, 9)
patt to last 3 sts, esc dbl dec, turn. 2 sts dec times. 36 (44, 48, 56, 57, 65, 69, 77, 78, 86) sts
Row 2 (WS)(dec): Ch2 (does not count as a st), Work straight in Textured Stitch patt for a further
sc dec, patt to end, turn. 1 st dec 6 (10, 6, 12, 2, 6, 4, 8, 0, 4) rows.
Rep rows 1-2 a further 3 (3, 3, 3, 4, 4, 4, 4, 5, 5) Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for seaming.
times, then rep row 1 once more. 36 (44, 48, 56,
57, 65, 69, 77, 78, 86) sts SLEEVES
Fasten off. Cuff
Ch 10, turn.
FRONT Work Single Crochet Ribbing until piece measures
Work as for Back from ** to **. 25 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5, 31, 32, 32.5, 33)cm /
Rep Dec rows 1-2 a further 9 (11, 12, 14, 15, 17, 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12, 12¼, 12½, 12¾, 13)"
18, 20, 21, 23) times. 36 (32, 36, 32, 36, 32, 36, when slightly stretched, ending with a RS row.
32, 36, 32) sts Do not turn at end of final row. 9 sts

ALSIA
by Reed Keyes

Main Sleeve Next round (WS): Sk sl st, work Seam Detail

With RS facing, ch2, work 60 (62, 66, 68, 72, (omitting sc in final st), sl st in first fpsc to join, turn.
74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sc evenly across long edge 120 (120, 123, 123, 126, 126, 129, 129, 132, 132) sts
of Cuff, turn. Beg working in Textured Stitch patt as foll:
Next row (WS): Work Seam Detail. 60 (62, 66, Next round: Work in patt to end, sl st in first st
68, 72, 74, 76, 78, 80, 82) sts to join, turn.
Beg working in Textured Stitch patt and shape Work in patt as set, turning at end of each round,
sleeve as foll: until collar measures 7.5cm / 3" from seam detail.
Work 4 (4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1) rows straight in patt. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough for seaming.
Inc row: Ch1, maintaining patt throughout, Fold collar in half to inside of work. Using tapestry
work 2 sts into first st, patt to last st, work 2 sts needle and long tail from collar, loosely stitch down
into last st, turn. 2 sts inc edge of last round worked to inside of neckline.
Rep last 5 (5, 5, 4, 4, 4, 3, 3, 3, 2) rows a further Weave in any remaining ends.
11 (13, 14, 19, 19, 21, 23, 25, 28, 29) times. 84 (90,
96, 108, 112, 118, 124, 130, 138, 142) sts a. Chest circumference: 96.5 (106.5, 117, 127, 137,
Work straight in Textured Stitch until sleeve 147.5, 157.5, 167.5, 178, 188)cm / 38 (42, 46, 50,
measures 48cm / 19" from lower cuff edge, 54, 58, 62, 66, 70, 74)"
or desired length. Fasten off, leaving a tail long b. Armhole depth: 18.5 (19.5, 20.5, 23, 24, 25,
enough for seaming. 26.5, 27.5, 29, 30)cm / 7¼ (7¾, 8, 9, 9½, 10, 10½,
11, 11½, 12)"
FINISHING c. Hem to underarm: 35.5cm / 14"
Weave in ends and block to measurements. d. Upper arm circumference: 36 (38.5, 40.5, 45.5,
Seam sides from hem to underarm using mattress 47.5, 50.5, 52.5, 55.5, 58.5, 60)cm / 14¼ (15¼, 16,
stitch. Join shoulders using mattress stitch. Join 18, 18¾, 19¾, 20¾, 21¾, 23, 23¾)"
sleeves to armholes, seam sleeve using mattress e. Cuff circumference: 25 (25.5, 26.5, 28, 29, 30.5,
stitch. Note: Locking stitch markers or safety pins 31, 32, 32.5, 33)cm / 9¾ (10, 10½, 11, 11½, 12,
may be used to hold sleeve in place while seaming. 12¼, 12½, 12¾, 13)"
Collar f. Sleeve length: 48cm / 19"
With RS facing, join yarn at centre back neck, ch2 g. Neck circumference: 51 (51, 52, 52, 53.5, 53.5,
(does not count as a st), work 120 (120, 123, 123, 54.5, 54.5, 56, 56)cm / 20 (20, 20½, 20½, 21, 21,
126, 126, 129, 129, 132, 132) sc evenly around edge 21½, 21½, 22, 22)"
of neckline for collar, sl st in first sc to join, turn. h. Collar height (folded): 4cm / 11/2"

OVERSTORY
by Heidi Kästner

Sizes: 1 (2, 3) Gauge: Size 1 ONLY:

Finished brim circumference: 40 (48, 52)cm / 35 sts & 42 rows = 10cm / 4" over 1x1 Rib
15¾ (18¾, 20½)" – to be worn with 5-10cm / on 3mm needles, after blocking.
2"-4" negative ease. One 28-st rep of Chart = 8cm / 3¼" wide,
Yarn: Julie Asselin Journey Sport (sportweight; after blocking.
80% Merino (Rambouillet), 20% wool (Targhee); Sizes 2 & 3 ONLY:
192m / 210yds per 56g skein) 29 sts & 37 rows = 10cm / 4" over 1x1 Rib
Sample 1 (shown in size 2 on page 33): on 3.5mm needles, after blocking.
Shade: Charbon; 2 skeins One 28-st rep of Chart = 9.5cm / 3¾" wide,
Sample 2 (shown in size 3 above): after blocking.
Shade: Champignons; 2 skeins Needles: Size 1 ONLY: 3mm / US 2.5 needles
OR approx. 254 (277, 298)m / 278 (303, 326)yds suitable for working small circumferences in
of sportweight yarn the round

100

OVERSTORY
by Heidi Kästner

Sizes 2 & 3 ONLY: 3.5mm / US 4 needles suitable Rounds 25-26: K2, p5, k2, p4, k2, p4, k2, p5, k2.
for working small circumferences in the round Round 27: K2, p5, 2/1 LPC, p3, k2, p3, 2/1 RPC,
Always use a needle size that will result in the p5, k2.
correct gauge after blocking. Round 28: K2, p6, [k2, p3] 3 times, p3, k2.
Notions: 5 stitch markers (including one unique Round 29: 2/2 LC, p4, 2/2 LPC, p4, 2/2 RPC,
marker for beg of round), cable needle, pom pom p4, 2/2 RC.
maker (optional), tapestry needle Round 30: K4, p6, k2, p4, k2, p6, k4.
Notes: Overstory is worked in the round from Round 31: K2, 2/1 LPC, p5, 2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC,
the bottom up. The ribbed brim transitions into p5, 2/1 RPC, k2.
a cabled pattern before the crown is shaped Rounds 32-34: K2, p1, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2, p6, k2,
with decreases. p1, k2.
Round 35: K2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p5, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC,
Stitch Glossary: p5, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2.
2/1 LPC: Sl 2 to cable needle, hold at front, p1, Round 36: [K2, p2] twice, p4, k4, p4, [p2, k2]
k2 from cable needle. twice.
2/1 RPC: Sl 1 to cable needle, hold at back, k2, Round 37: K2, p2, 2/2 LPC, p4, 2/2 LC, p4, 2/2
p1 from cable needle. RPC, p2, k2.
2/2 LC: Sl 2 to cable needle, hold at front, k2, Round 38: [K2, p4] twice, k4, [p4, k2] twice.
k2 from cable needle. Round 39: K2, p4, [2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC] twice,
2/2 RC: Sl 2 to cable needle, hold at back, k2, p4, k2.
k2 from cable needle. Rounds 40-42: K2, p5, [k2, p2] 4 times, p3, k2.
2/2 LPC: Sl 2 to cable needle, hold at front, p2, Round 43: K2, p5, [2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2] twice,
k2 from cable needle. p3, k2.
2/2 RPC: Sl 2 to cable needle, hold at back, k2, Round 44: K2, p6, [k4, p4] twice, p2, k2.
p2 from cable needle. Round 45: [2/2 LC, p4] 3 times, 2/2 RC.
Round 46: [K4, p4] 3 times, k4.
WRITTEN INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHART Round 47: K2, [2/1 LPC, p2, 2/1 RPC] 3 times, k2.
Rounds 1-8: K2, [p1, k1] 5 times, p1, k2, [p1, k1] Rounds 48-50: K2, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, p1, k2.
5 times, p1, k2. Round 51: K2, [p1, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p1] 3 times,
Rounds 9-12: *K2, p3, [k1, p1] 4 times, k2, [p1, k1] k2.
4 times, p3, k2. Round 52: K2, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, p2, k2.
Round 13: 2/2 LC, p3, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2, [p1, k1] Round 53: K2, [p2, 2/2 LC, p2] 3 times, k2.
3 times, p3, 2/2 RC. Round 54: K2, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, p2, k2.
Round 14: K4, p3, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2, [p1, k1] Round 55: K2, [p1, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p1] 3 times,
3 times, p3, k4. k2.
Round 15: K2, 2/1 LPC, p2, [k1, p1] 3 times, k2, Round 56: K2, p1, [k2, p2] 5 times, k2, p1, k2.
[p1, k1] 3 times, p2, 2/1 RPC, k2. Rounds 57-58: K2, p5, [k2, p2] 4 times, p3, k2.
Round 16: [K2, p1] twice, [p1, k1] 4 times, [k1, Round 59: K2, p5, [2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2] twice,
p1] 4 times, [p1, k2] twice. p3, k2.
Rounds 17-18: K2, p1, k2, p4, [k1, p1] twice, k2, Round 60: K2, p6, [k4, p4] twice, p2, k2.
[p1, k1] twice, p4, k2, p1, k2.
Round 19: K2, p1, 2/1 LPC, p3, [k1, p1] twice, PATTERN BEGINS
k2, [p1, k1] twice, p3, 2/1 RPC, p1, k2. Using correct needles for your size and the long-tail
Round 20: [K2, p2] twice, [p1, k1] 3 times, [k1, method, cast on 140 (140, 150) sts.
p1] 3 times, [p2, k2] twice. Join for working in the round, being careful not
Round 21: K2, p2, 2/2 LPC, p3, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, to twist sts. PM to indicate beg of round.
p3, 2/2 RPC, p2, k2. Next round: *Work round 1 of Chart, k0 (0, 2),
Round 22: K2, p4, k2, p3, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p3, PM; rep from * to end.
k2, p4, k2. Next round: *Work next round of Chart, k0 (0, 2),
Round 23: K2, p4, 2/1 LPC, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, SM; rep from * to end.
k1, p2, 2/1 RPC, p4, k2. Continue working as set until round 60 of Chart is
Round 24: K2, p5, k2, p2, k1, p1, k2, p1, k1, p2, complete, then rep rounds 45-56 only once more.
k2, p5, k2.
101

OVERSTORY
by Heidi Kästner

Crown Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY:

Next round: *K2, p5, [k2, p2] 3 times, k2, p5, Next round (dec): [K2tog] to end. 30 sts
k2 (2, 4); rep from * to end. Next round: Knit.
Rep last round a further 1 (1, 4) times. Next round (dec): [K2tog] to end. 15 sts
Next round (dec): *K2, [p2tog] twice, k2tog, k1,
[p2, k2] 3 times, [p2tog] twice, k2tog, k1, [k2tog] Size 3 ONLY:
0 (0, 1) times; rep from * to end. 110 (110, 115) sts Next round (dec): *K1, [k2tog] 6 times; rep from *
Next round: *[K2, p2] 5 times, k2 (2, 3); rep from to end. 35 sts
* to end. Next round (dec): *K1, [k2tog] 3 times; rep from *
Next round (dec): *[K2, p2tog] 5 times, k2 (2, 3); to end. 20 sts
rep from * to end. 85 (85, 90) sts
Next round: *[K2, p1] 5 times, k2 (2, 3); rep from ALL sizes again:
* to end. Cut yarn leaving a 15cm / 6" tail. Thread yarn
Next round (dec): *K2, [k2tog, k1] 5 times, k0 through rem sts and pull tight.
(0, 1); rep from * to end. 60 (60, 65) sts
Next round: Knit. FINISHING
Weave in ends and block to measurements.
Make a pom pom and attach it to the top of hat.

102

OVERSTORY
by Heidi Kästner

Chart Key
28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
60 k ni t
59
purl
58
57 2 / 1 LPC
56
2 / 1 RP C
55
54 2 / 2 LC
53 2 / 2 RC
52
51 2 / 2 LPC
50 2 / 2 RPC
49
48
47
46
45
44
43
42
41
40
39
38
37
36
35
34
33
32
31
30
29
28
27
26
25
24
23
22
21
20
19
18
17
16
15
14
13
12
11
10
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
1
28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

103

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Needles: 4.5mm / US 7 circular needle,

60-100cm / 24-40” length (depending on size
worked) and 40cm / 16” length and needles
suitable for working small circumferences in
the round.
3.5mm / US 4 needles suitable for working
small circumferences in the round.
Note: Begin the yoke using shorter circular
needles, then change to longer circular needles
as the circumference increases.
Always use a needle size that will result in the
correct gauge after blocking.
Notions: 10 stitch markers (including one
unique for beg of round, 7 of one type for
raglan, and 2 of another type for sleeve cables),
4 removable markers (for body cables), scrap yarn
or stitch holders, cable needle, tapestry needle
Notes: Soana is worked from the top down,
beginning at the base of the cowl neck. Back
neck shaping with raglan increases is worked
flat, before joining to knit in the round. At the
underarm, sleeve stitches are put on hold and
the body is worked in one piece. The front and
back hems are worked separately, then sleeve
stitches are picked up and sleeves are worked
down in the round. Finally, stitches are picked
up around the neckline and the cowl neck is
Sizes: 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10) completed.
Finished chest (fullest point) circumference: 81.5
(91.5, 101.5, 112, 122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5) Stitch Glossary:
cm / 32 (36, 40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68)” - to be Brk: Knit the slipped st together with its
worn with approx. 5-20cm / 2-8" positive ease. yarnover.
Nick's height is 163cm / 5' 4” with a chest (fullest Brp: Purl the slipped st together with its
point) circumference of 91cm / 36”, and is shown yarnover.
wearing a size 3 on page 105. Sl1yo: With yarn in front, sl1 pwise, yo. Treat
Araba's height is 173cm / 5' 8” with a chest (fullest the sl1yo as one st throughout.
point) circumference of 112cm / 44”, and is shown Brkyobrk: (Brk, yo, brk) into next st. 2 sts inc
above and on pages 106 and 110 wearing a size 6. BrLsl dec1: Slip next st kwise, brk next 2 sts
Yarn: Sandnes Garn Bøstet Alpakka (bulky-weight; together, pass the slipped st over. 2 sts dec
96% alpaca, 4% nylon; 110m / 120yds per 50g ball) BrRsl dec1: Slip next st kwise, k1, pass the slipped
Shade: Petrol; 9 (10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 16, 17, 18, 19) balls st over, slip st from RH needle to LH needle, pass
Also shown in Beigemelert (2650) above. second st on LH needle over first, slip st from LH
OR approx. 941 (1055, 1162, 1283, 1407, 1522, 1652, needle back to RH needle. 2 sts dec
1785, 1909, 2073)m / 1026 (1151, 1267, 1399, 1535, 1661,
1802, 1948, 2082, 2261)yds of bulky-weight yarn 4/4 LC: Sl 4 sts to cable needle, hold at front, [brk,
Gauge: 16 sts & 38 rows = 10cm / 4” over cable sl1yo] twice, [brk, sl1yo] twice from cable needle.
pattern worked in the round on 4.5mm needles, 4/4 RC: Sl 4 sts to cable needle, hold at back, [brk,
after blocking. sl1yo] twice, [brk, sl1yo] twice from cable needle.
12 sts & 38 rows = 10cm / 4” over brioche stitch
worked in the round on 4.5mm needles, after Brioche stitch (worked flat)
blocking. Row 1 (RS): [Sl1yo, brk] to end.
Row 2 (WS): [Sl1yo, brk] to end.
Rep rows 1-2 for pattern.
104

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Brioche stitch (in the round) Row 2 (WS): Sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] to end.
Round 1: [Brp, sl1yo] to end. Row 3 (front inc): Cast on 1 st, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo]
Round 2: [Sl1yo, brk] to end. to last st, brk. 1 st inc
Rep rounds 1-2 for pattern. Row 4 (front inc): Cast on 1 st, k1, [sl1yo, brk] to
end. 1 st inc
Cable Pattern 1 Row 5 (body/sleeves inc): Sl1yo, *[brk, sl1yo] to
Worked over 16 sts 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo,
NOTE: When working Cable Pattern 1 over SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo; rep from * twice, [brk, sl1yo]
sleeve sts, work first 8 sts of pattern only. to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, brk,
Round 1: 4/4 LC, [brk, sl1yo] 4 times. sl1yo, SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] to end.
Round 2: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times. 16 sts inc
Round 3: [Brk, sl1yo] 8 times. Row 6: [Brk, sl1yo] to last st, brk.
Round 4: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times. Row 7 (front inc): Cast on 1 st, k1, [sl1yo, brk] to
Rounds 5-12: Rep rounds 3-4 four times. last st, sl1yo. 1 st inc
Round 13: [Brk, sl1yo] 4 times, 4/4 RC. Row 8 (front inc): Cast on 1 st, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo]
Round 14: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times. to end. 1 st inc
Rounds 15-24: Rep rounds 3-4 five times. Rep rows 1-4 once more. 95 (99, 99, 97, 97, 97,
Rep rounds 1-24 for pattern. 97, 95, 99, 99) sts

Cable Pattern 2
Worked over 16 sts
Round 1: [Brk, sl1yo] 4 times, 4/4 LC.
Round 2: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times.
Round 3: [Brk, sl1yo] 8 times.
Round 4: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times.
Rounds 5-12: Rep rounds 3-4 four times.
Round 13: 4/4 RC, [brk, sl1yo] 4 times.
Round 14: [Sl1yo, brp] 8 times.
Rounds 15-24: Rep rounds 3-4 five times.
Rep rounds 1-24 for pattern.

PATTERN BEGINS
With larger needles, using long-tail or preferred
method, cast on 41 (45, 45, 43, 43, 43, 43, 41, 45,
45) sts. Do not join.

Working flat and using cable method to cast on

sts at beg of rows, continue as foll:
Set-up row (WS): Sl1yo, PM, k1, sl1yo, k1, PM,
sl1yo, [k1, sl1yo] 2 (3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 2, 2) times,
PM, k1, sl1yo, k1, PM, sl1yo, [k1, sl1yo] 8 (8, 8, 9,
9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10) times, PM, k1, sl1yo, k1, PM,
sl1yo, [k1, sl1yo] to last 4 sts, PM, k1, sl1yo, k1,
PM, sl1yo.
Note: Slip markers as you pass them throughout
unless otherwise indicated. When working row
1 for the first time, the “brkyobrk” inc will be
worked on the first and last st of the row.
Row 1 (RS)(body/sleeves inc): *[Brk, sl1yo] to 1 st
before marker, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo,
SM, brkyobrk, sl1yo; rep from * twice, [brk, sl1yo]
to 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM, sl1yo, brk,
sl1yo, SM, brkyobrk, [sl1yo, brk] to end. 16 sts inc
105

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Yoke to once more, [brk, sl1yo] 3 times, place a

Next row (RS): [Sl1yo, brk] to last st, sl1yo, turn removable marker for body cable (CBM), [brk,
work and cast on 9 (9, 9, 11, 11, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) sl1yo] 8 times, place a removable marker for
sts, turn work again and join for working in the body cable (CBM), brk, [sl1yo, brk] to end.
round being careful not to twist sts, [brp, k1] to
first marker. This marker now indicates beg of Sizes 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 & 10 ONLY:
round. 104 (108, 108, 108, 108, 108, 108, 108, Round 1 (Body inc): **Sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, SM,
112, 112) sts [brk, sl1yo] - (-, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, PM for
Set-up round: [Brp, sl1yo] to 1 st before last sleeve cable (CSM), work round 1 of Cable Pattern
marker, brp, SM, [sl1yo, brp] 5 times, [sl1yo, p1] 1 over 8 sts, brk, [sl1yo, brk] to marker, SM, sl1yo,
to last st, sl1yo. brk, sl1yo, SM**, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] -
(-, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, place removable
Establish cable markers as foll: marker for body cable (CBM), work round 1
Sizes 1 & 2 ONLY: of Cable Pattern 1 over 16 sts, place removable
Round 1: **Sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, SM, [brk, sl1yo] 2 (3) marker for body cable (CBM), [brk, sl1yo] to 1 st
times, PM for sleeve cable (CSM), work round 1 before marker, brkyobrk, SM; rep from ** to **
of Cable Pattern 1 over next 8 sts, brk, [sl1yo, brk] once more, brkyobrk, sl1yo, [brk, sl1yo] - (-, 2,
to marker, SM, sl1yo, brk, sl1yo, SM**, [brk, sl1yo] 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3) times, place a removable marker
3 times, place a removable marker for body cable for body cable (CBM), [brk, sl1yo] 8 times, place
(CBM), work round 1 of Cable Pattern 1 over next a removable marker for body cable (CBM), [brk,
16 sts, place a removable marker for body cable sl1yo] to last st, brkyobrk. - (-, 116, 116, 116, 116,
(CBM), brk, [sl1yo, brk] to marker, SM; rep from 116, 116, 120, 120) sts

106

SOANA
by Denise Otter

ALL sizes again: before marker, brkyobrk, SM, patt to marker,

Note: The terms “marker” and “SM” now refer SM, brkyobrk, patt to CBM, slip CBM, work next
to raglan markers only. Body and sleeve cable round of cable patt to CBM, slip CBM, patt to
markers will be referenced specifically as CBM 1 st before marker, brkyobrk, SM; rep from * once
and CSM. more. 16 sts inc
Before rounds 1 and 13 of Cable Pattern, check
the number of sts between the raglan marker and Sizes 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5 ONLY:
CBM. Whenever there are 10 sts or more between Rounds 22-27: Rep rounds 2-3 three times.
the raglan marker and CBM on both sides of the Round 28: Rep round 4.
cable pattern section, incorporate these sts into Rep rounds 5-12 a further 0 (2, 2, 2, 1) times
the cable pattern by moving all four CBMs (NOTE: When repeating round 9, work as round
towards the raglan marker by 8 sts, and going to 3 for all sizes). 136 (156, 164, 164, 172) sts
next Cable Pattern, e.g. If you’re knitting row 4 Rep rounds 21-28 a further 3 (3, 4, 4, 6) times.
of Cable Pattern 1 in the previous row, go to row 5 184 (204, 228, 228, 268) sts
of Cable Pattern 2. If you’re knitting row 12 of Rep rounds 21-24 a further 0 (0, 0, 1, 0) times.
Cable Pattern 2, go to row 13 of Cable Pattern 1. 184 (204, 228, 244, 268) sts
Use only Cable Pattern 1 on sleeves throughout.
Sizes 6, 7 & 8 ONLY:
On next round, when working cable pattern Rounds 22-24: Rep rounds 2-4.
across front section, beg with round 2 of cable Rep rounds 5-8 a further 2 (3, 3) times. 180 (188,
pattern (to match back section). 188) sts
Round 2: Brp, *[sl1yo, brp] to CSM, slip CSM, Rep rounds 21-24 a further 0 (2, 3) times. 180 (220,
work next round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, 236) sts
[sl1yo, brp] to CBM, slip CBM, work next round **Rep round 21 once. 16 sts inc
of cable patt to CBM, slip CBM; rep from * once Rep rounds 2-3 three times.
more, sl1yo, [brp, sl1yo] to end. Rep round 2 once.**
Round 3: Sl1yo, *[brk, sl1yo] to CSM, slip CSM, Rep from ** to ** a further 6 (5, 5) times. 292 (316,
work next round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, 332) sts
[brk, sl1yo] to CBM, slip CBM, work next round
of cable patt to CBM, slip CBM; rep from * once Sizes 9 & 10 ONLY:
more, brk, [sl1yo, brk] to end. Rounds 22-24: Rep rounds 2-4.
Rounds 2-3 set patt. Rounds 25-28: Rep rounds 5-8. 8 sts inc
Round 4: Rep round 2. Rounds 29-33: Rep rounds 5-8. 8 sts inc
Round 5 (body inc): *Patt to marker, SM, patt to Rounds 33-36: Rep rounds 21-24. 16 sts inc
CSM, slip CSM, work next round of Cable Pattern Rounds 37-60: Rep rounds 29-36 three times.
1 over 8 sts, [patt to marker, SM] twice, brkyobrk, 272 sts
patt to CBM, slip CBM, work next round of cable Round 61: Rep round 3 (5). 272 (280) sts
patt to CBM, slip CBM, patt to 1 st before marker, Rounds 62-64: Rep rounds 2-4.
brkyobrk, SM; rep from * once more. 8 sts inc **Rep round 21 once. 16 sts inc
Rounds 6-8: Rep rounds 2-4. Rep rounds 2-3 three times.
Round 9: Rep round 3 (3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5). Rep round 2 once.**
0 (0, 0, 0, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8, 8) sts inc; 112 (116, 124, Rep from ** to ** a further 4 (5) times. 352 (376) sts
124, 132, 132, 132, 132, 136, 136) sts
Rounds 10-12: Rep rounds 2-4 once more. ALL sizes again:
Rounds 13-20: Rep rounds 5-12 once more. Rep rounds 2-3 a further 11 (5, 3, 4, 4, 5, 5, 5, 4, 4)
120 (124, 132, 132, 148, 148, 148, 148, 152, 152) sts times, then rep round 2 once more.
Round 21 (body/sleeves inc): *Patt to marker, Make a note of last cable patt row for working
SM, brkyobrk, patt to CSM, slip CSM, work next sleeves later.
round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, patt to 1 st

107

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Divide Body and Sleeves as foll: Back Hem

Next round: *Patt to marker, remove marker, Return to held Back Hem sts.
place next 33 (35, 39, 41, 45, 49, 53, 55, 57, 61) sts, With WS facing, join yarn and work as for Front
and CSM on holder for left sleeve, remove marker, Hem, working flat in established Brioche stitch
using backwards loop method cast on 5 (5, 5, 7, patt until hem measures 10cm / 4”, ending with
7, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) sts, patt to CBM, slip CBM, work a WS row.
next round of cable patt to CBM, slip CBM, patt Cast off loosely in rib.
to marker, remove marker; rep from * once more
but do not remove final (beg of round) marker. SLEEVES
128 (144, 160, 176, 192, 208, 224, 240, 256, 272) sts With RS facing, using larger needles suitable
for working small circumferences in the round
Body and beg at centre of underarm, pick up and knit
Next round: Brp, k1, brp, [k1, p1] 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2, 3 (3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5) sts from underarm
2, 2, 2, 2) times, PM for left side, sl1yo, [p1, sl1yo] cast-on, [brk, sl1yo] across held sleeve sts to CSM,
1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times, patt to CBM, slip slip CSM, work next round of Cable Pattern 1 over
CBM, work next round of cable patt to CBM, 8 sts, brk, [sl1yo, brk] to end, pick up and knit 2
slip CBM, patt to cast-on sts, [sl1yo, p1] 1 (1, 1, 2, (2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts from underarm cast-on,
2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) times, PM for right side, sl1yo, [p1, join to work in the round, p1, PM for beg of round.
sl1yo] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2) times, patt to CBM, 38 (40, 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 66, 70) sts
slip CBM, work next round of cable patt to CBM,
slip CBM, patt to beg of round, remove marker, Set-up round: [Sl1yo, p1] 1 (1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 2, 2)
p1, [sl1yo, p1] to side marker. This marker now times, [sl1yo, brp] to CSM, work next round of
indicates new beg of round at left side. Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, [sl1yo, brp] to last 2
Move each CBM 8 (8, 8, 8, 16, 8, 16, 8, 16, 8) sts (2, 2, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4, 4) sts, [sl1yo, p1] to end.
closer to its nearest side marker, incorporating Round 1: [Brk, sl1yo] to CSM, slip CSM, work
these sts into cable pattern in the same way as the next round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, [brk,
yoke. NOTE: On some sizes the CBM will now sit sl1yo] to end.
directly next to the side markers; surplus markers Round 2: [Sl1yo, brp] to CSM, slip CSM, work
may be removed if preferred. On sizes with sts next round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts, [sl1yo,
between the CBM and side markers, work these brp] to end.
sts in Brioche stitch patt, as established Rep rounds 1-2 a further 16 times.
Next round: [Patt if necessary to CBM, slip CBM, Dec round: BrRsl dec1, patt to CSM, slip CSM,
work next round of cable patt to CBM, slip CBM] work next round of Cable Pattern 1 over 8 sts,
twice, patt if necessary to end. patt to last 4 sts, brLsl dec1, sl1yo. 4 sts dec
Rep last round until piece measures 25cm / 10” from
underarm or 8cm / 3” less than desired final length Continue in patt as set, maintaining Cable
of front, ending with an odd round of cable patt. Pattern 1 over 8 sts after CSM, and rep Dec
round every 60 (60, 40, 42, 32, 26, 22, 18, 18, 14)
Split hem as foll: rounds a further 1 (1, 2, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 6, 7) times.
Front Hem 30 (32, 32, 36, 36, 36, 36, 36, 38, 38) sts
Remove beg of round marker, slip next 64 (72, 80,
88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136) sts on holder for Work straight in patt, until sleeve measure 35.5cm /
Back Hem, turn work and continue on Front Hem 14” or 5cm / 2” less than desired length.
sts only. 64 (72, 80, 88, 96, 104, 112, 120, 128, 136) sts
Maintaining established patt, beg with a WS row,
work flat in Brioche stitch patt until front hem
measures 7.5cm / 3” from split, ending with a WS row.
Cast off loosely in rib.

108

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Cuff Weave in ends and block to measurements.

Change to smaller needles.
Work brioche stitch in the round (removing CSM) a. Chest circumference: 81.5 (91.5, 101.5, 112,
until cuff measures 5cm / 2”. 122, 132, 142, 152.5, 162.5, 172.5)cm / 32 (36, 40,
Using a stretchy method, cast off loosely in rib. 44, 48, 52, 56, 60, 64, 68)”
b. Length (front hem to underarm): 33cm / 13”
FINISHING c. Upper arm circumference: 29.5 (31.5, 34.5,
Cowl Neck 38, 41.5, 45, 48.5, 51.5, 53.5, 56.5)cm / 11½ (12½,
With RS facing and using larger needles, beg at 13½, 15, 16½, 17½, 19, 20½, 21, 22½)”
center of left shoulder, pick up and knit 56 (60, 60, d. Yoke depth: 23.5 (24.5, 26, 27.5, 28.5, 30, 31,
60, 60, 60, 60, 60, 64, 64) sts around neckline. Join 32, 33, 35)cm / 9¼ (9¾, 10, 10¾, 11¼, 11¾, 12¼,
to work in the round, PM to indicate beg of round. 12¾, 13, 13¾)”
Round 1: [Sl1yo, k1] to end. e. Cuff circumference: 20.5 (21.5, 21.5, 24.5,
Round 2: [Brp, sl1yo] to end. 24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 24.5, 26, 26)cm / 8 (8½, 8½, 9½,
Round 3: [Sl1yo, brk] to end. 9½, 9½, 9½, 9½, 10¼, 10¼)”
Rep rounds 2-3 until cowl measures 25cm / 10”, f. Neck circumference: 47.5 (51, 51, 51, 51, 51, 51,
ending on a WS row. Using a stretchy method, 51, 54.5, 54.5)cm / 18½ (20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20,
cast off loosely in rib. 21½, 21½)”
g. Sleeve length: 40.5cm / 16”

109

SOANA
by Denise Otter

Cable Pattern 1
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
24
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Cable Pattern 2
16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Key
s l1 y o

brk

brp

4 / 4 LC

4 / 4 RC

Sleeve c able , worked over 8 s ts

110

JULIE-ASSELIN.COM

PATTERN

Jolie Cardigan
BY

Paula Wiśniewska
Polka Knits

polkaknits
Paula Wiśniewska

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
G I NG E R
P U D DI NG
words + image by Fi Churchman

Ginger milk curd, a light and creamy almost Ginger is an ingredient that is dry and warming
panna cotta-like dessert, is a traditional Cantonese in nature, disperses the cold, helps clear the lungs
dessert said to originate in the Pearl River Delta, and heart, and improves circulation and digestion.
in a small town called Shawan. No one really And of course, it helps with a cough. But since
knows when the dessert was invented, but the TCM and Chinese cooking is all about a balance,
centuries-old story that accompanies this pudding the milk, considered a neutral ingredient, counteracts
tells of an elderly woman who suffered from a any excess dryness brought on by the ginger.
cough. After learning from a physician that ginger
juice could cure her cough, she struggled to drink the For this recipe, it’s important to use full fat
spicy liquid. One day, the woman’s daughter-in-law organic milk because the protein content is key
accidentally poured hot milk into the bowl to the setting process of the pudding. While some
containing the dregs of ginger juice; when they people (like me) prefer to think of it as magic,
realised that the milk had curdled, the elderly the setting of this dessert occurs because ginger
woman found she was able to eat the ginger juice juice contains the protease zingibain, a coagulant
in the form of a fragrant pudding. The next day, that is sometimes used as an alternative to rennet;
her cough was much alleviated. This happy this protease reacts with heated milk proteins and
accident is why the Cantonese name of ginger sets within a matter of minutes. The added bonus
milk curd literally translates to ‘ginger bumping of this near-instant reaction is that it’s a great
into milk’. dessert to whip up at a moment’s notice! Enjoy.

This dessert contains an important balance of P.S. I’ve included a ginger syrup, one that usually
food elements: in Traditional Chinese Medicine accompanies another dessert that translates as
(TCM), it’s believed that we should eat certain ‘tofu flower’, for a little extra punch. It’s optional,
foods according to our bodies’ natural constitutions but worth it.
and the climates we live in – we can call them
‘energies’. There are four main energies: dry heat,
damp heat, dry cold and damp cold. In the UK,
our autumns are typically damp and cold, so ginger
milk curd is a great dessert at this time of year.

114

GINGER PUDDING
(SERVES 2)

- 80g (3 oz / 5 tbsp) ginger, skin on

- 275 ml (3.5 cups) full fat organic milk
- 1 tbsp caster sugar

1. Finely grate the ginger and squeeze the juice

from the pulp using a muslin cloth (or through
a fine mesh sieve) into a bowl. This should give
you 3 tbsp of juice which will look starchy –
like a creamy yellow. Pour 1.5 tbsp of ginger
juice into each serving bowl.

2. Pour the milk into a pan and add the sugar.

Gently heat the milk to 70°C (158°F),
while stirring to dissolve the sugar.
Remove from the stove.

3. Holding the pan of milk about 10cm (4")

above the serving bowl, pour half of the milk
onto the ginger juice. Repeat for the second
serving. The reason you need to pour from
a height is to make sure the milk mixes
properly with the ginger juice.

4. Without stirring or disturbing the bowls,

let the mixture set for 20 minutes.
Then transfer to the fridge for an hour.

GINGER SYRUP

- 15g (0.5 oz / 1 tbsp) ginger, sliced very finely

- 30g (2 tbsp) yellow rock sugar, or caster sugar
- 100 ml (7 tbsp) water
- Goji berries optional

Combine ingredients in a pan and simmer

for 10 minutes or until liquid reduces to
about half the volume. Set aside to cool.

A S S E M B LY

1. Remove the puddings from the fridge about 20

minutes before serving to take the chill off them.

2. Dress with ginger syrup, a slice or two of the

ginger slivers and a few goji berries (if using).
And serve!

115

TH E FO RE S T
S PRITE S
Consider our autumn designers your helpful guides!

Anna Husemann (she/her) is a textile and knitwear Heidi Kästner (she/her) is a spare-time knitwear
designer based in Hamburg, Germany. Her work is designer based in Leipzig / Germany. When she
all about colour, shape and material, and how they was eight years old Heidi was taught knitting by
interact. See more on Instagram @anna_husemann her mother. At first all her dolls got little garments
and now, at the age of 36, she likes to wear her
Audrey Borrego (she/her) is a knitwear designer handmade garments herself! Find her on Ravelry
from the south-west of France. She designs as HeidiKaestner
garments and accessories that are meant to bring
confidence to knitters in understanding how to Reed Keyes (she/her) is a designer and tech editor
make their projects to their liking. With a focus on living in the California Bay Area with her husband,
colourwork and textures, she loves handpicking two children, and a dog. She is usually working
yarns to fit every idea. @yarnflakes on multiple projects at any given time and has a
particular fondness for garments. She can be found
Caitlin Ffrench (she/her) is a pigment and textile artist on Instagram @highfiberhabit, and is on Ravelry as
living on the west coast of Canada. Caitlin spends as highfiberhabit
much time as she can outdoors wildcrafting plants
and earth pigments to use in her work, but she is Tereza Pavlíková (she/her) is a knitter and
also often found reading or knitting. @ffrench geographer from the Czech Republic. She learned
to knit in primary school and never stopped.
Catherine Clark (she/her) is a knitwear designer She designs knitting patterns as Terranean Stitch
whose passion is to create garments that tell a and is a passionate student of physical geography.
story about nature and its reflection of the human @terranean_stitch
experience… garments that have meaning and
intention when worn. Catherine is also the owner Tyra Smith (she/her) is an undergraduate student
of Brooklyn General Store and Bluebird Midwifery. at Northwestern University in Evanston, Illinois,
You can find her at @brooklyngeneralstore and double majoring in theatre and economics. She
@loveisinthemaking first learned to knit and crochet at the age of 10
and has yet to stop.
Dawn Henderson (she/her) is a single, Black,
unschooling mother of four who grew up in the Yiğitcan Vatansever (they/them) is a knitting
southern region of the United States, but now designer based in Istanbul. They learned knitting
resides in sunny Colorado. She knits socks in when they were a child and have been in love with
excess, has an abundance of sweater bodies waiting this magical craft ever since. They studied fine arts
for sleeves, and also has deep interests in ceramics, in high school and have a textile design degree.
astrology, and African medicine. You can find They are currently doing their master’s degree
her on Instagram @knit.yarn.stuff in the same field. They started to publish their
patterns under the name pufidoKnits in summer
Denise Otter (she/her) is a born and bred city girl 2020. Their designs usually focus on unexpected
who moved to a national park in 2020. Awed by details, striking forms and attitude. They love to
the beauty of her new home (Valley Soana in Gran play with colours through intarsia and brioche but
Paradiso), designing is the former engineer’s way of also enjoy solid colour projects with interesting
marrying her love for numbers and constructions motifs. @pufidoknits
with her heart’s serenades to Mother Nature.
@flyingottersknit Zanete Hussain (she/her) was born in Latvia and
now lives in London, UK with her husband and
Fi Churchman (she/her) is a writer and editor two children. Her grandmother taught her how
based in London. An ongoing attempt to stay to knit when she was seven. She enjoys knitting
connected to her Cantonese heritage and culture intricate cables, working with natural fibres, and
via its cuisine and language sparked her interest in creating practical and trendy designs. You can find
the history and politics of food. @fi_churchman her on Instagram and Ravelry @zaneteknits

117

THE
SAPL I NGS
What will these autumn yarns grow into?

Bouclelaine / Ouessant50 Ito Yarn - Sensai / Urugami Life in the Long Grass / Earth
bouclelaine.fr ito-yarn.com litlg.com

Cosy Posy Yarn Co. / Feather Julie Asselin / Journey Sport Little Fox Yarn / Vixen
cosyposyyarnco.com julie-asselin.com shop.littlefoxyarn.com

De Rerum Natura / Gilliat Katia / Concept Cotton Merino Sandnes Garn / Brushed Alpaca
dererumnatura.fr katia.com sandnes-garn.com

Hello Gavriella / Worsted Knitting For Olive / Heavy Merino Urth Yarns / Harvest Worsted
hellogavriella.myshopify.com knittingforolive.com urthyarns.com

118

© Pom Pom Publishing. Issued to Elisa Villanueva. Order #12027
ANNA HUSEMANN
AUDREY BORREGO
CATHERINE C LARK
DENISE OTTER
REED KEYES
HEIDI KÄSTNER
TYRA SMITH
YIĞITCAN VATANSEVER
ZANETE HUSSAIN
+
CAITLIN FFRENCH
DAWN HENDERSON
FI CHURCHMAN
T E R E Z A PAV L Í KOVÁ

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