KNITTING PATTERN
Tanjun
Slipover
Design: MLZ Design| Hobbii Design
Tanjun – Slipover | No. 2240-242-2137 | © Hobbii 2024| 1
MATERIALS SIZE
5 (5) 6 (6) skeins of Friends Extra Fine M (L) XL (2XL)
Merino
color Cognac (17) MEASUREMENTS
4 (4) 5 (5) skeins of Friends Kid Silk color Length: 56 (56) 65 (65) cm / 22 (22) 25.6 (25.6)″
Cognac (17) Length to armhole: 32 (32) 39 (39) cm / 12.6
(12.6) 15.4 (15.4)″
Circular needle 3.5 mm (US 4) – 60 cm (24″)
and 80 cm (32″) Width: 51 (54) 56 (58) cm / 20.1 (21.3) 22 (22.8)″
Cable needle
Stitch markers ABOUT THE PATTERN
Tapestry needle This beautiful slipover with cables on the front
Measuring tape piece is perfect for cold days and evenings.
Scissors
It is worked with one strand of Friends Extra
YARN QUALITY Fine Merino and one strand of Friends Kid Silk
Friends Extra Fine Merino, Hobbii held together. The slipover is worked in two
100 % Merino Wool separate parts which are sewn together. The
50 g (1.75 oz) = 165 m (180 yds) front piece features a beautiful cable pattern.
The back piece is worked in stockinette stitch.
The neckline and sleeves are finished with an
Friends Kid Silk, Hobbii
i-cord. The slipover is worked bottom up and
72 % Mohair, 25 % Silk, 3 % Wool
finished with a hem in broken rib.
25 g (0.9 oz) = 200 m (218 yds)
The pattern includes written instructions as
GAUGE
well as charts for the cable pattern. This
23 sts x 34 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4″)
pattern is suitable for experienced knitters.
The slipover has a positive ease of around 5-10
cm (2-4″). The model in the pictures is 180 cm
(5' 11″) tall and wears a size M.
HASHTAGS FOR SOCIAL MEDIA
#hobbiidesign #hobbiitanjun
BUY THE YARN HERE
https://shop.hobbii.com/tanjun-slipover
QUESTIONS
If you have any questions regarding this pattern, please feel free to email us at
support@hobbii.com
Please make sure to include the pattern's name and number. Happy Crafting!
Tanjun – Slipover | No. 2240-242-2137 | © Hobbii 2024| 2
Pattern
ABBREVIATIONS
st(s) = stitch(es)
k = knit
p = purl
tbl = through the back loop
RS = right side
WS = wrong side
yo(s) = yarnover(s)
sl1 = slip 1 stitch
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
co = cast on
bo = bind off
BOR = beginning of round
wyif = with yarn in front
INFORMATION AND TIPS
Stitches are increased for pattern A and B in order to avoid that the work contracts. Those
stitches are decreased again during bind off.
The length of the slipover can be adjusted by working one repeat more or less of pattern B (all
24 rows) before the armhole.
SPECIAL TECHNIQUES
Cables
C8F – place 4 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, k4, k the 4 sts on the cable needle
C8B – place 4 sts on a cable needle behind the work, k4, k the 4 sts on the cable needle
C6F – place 3 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, k3, k the 3 sts on the cable needle
C6B – place 3 sts on a cable needle behind the work, k3, k the 3 sts on the cable needle
C4F – place 2 sts on a cable needle in front of the work, k2, k the 2 sts on the cable needle
C4B – place 2 sts on a cable needle behind the work, k2, k the 2 sts on the cable needle
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Cable behind the work
Cable in front of the work
Broken rib
Row 1 (WS): p to end.
Row w (RS): *k1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat rows 1-2.
Edge stitch
The last st on the row: sl1 wyif. The first st on the row: k.
Purl increase (p inc)
Pick up the bar between 2 sts from behind and p it.
Pattern A
Please also refer to the chart.
Row 1 (RS): p2, C4F, k4, C4B, p2.
Row 2 (WS): p to end.
Row 3 (RS): p2, k2, C4F, C4B, k2, p2.
Row 4 (WS): p to end.
Row 5 (RS): p2, k4, C4B, k4, p2.
Row 6 (WS): p to end.
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Pattern B
Please also refer to the chart.
Row 1 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k12, p1, k12, p2 = 42 sts.
Row 2 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 3 (RS): p2, k12, p1, C8B, k4, p1, k12, p2.
Row 4 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 5 (RS): p2, C6B, C6F, p1, k12, p1, C6B, C6F, p2.
Row 6 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 7 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k4, C8F, p1, k12, p2.
Row 8 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 9 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k12, p1, k12, p2.
Row 10 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 11 (RS): p2, C6B, C6F, p1, C8B, k4, p1, C6B, C6F, p2.
Row 12 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 13 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k12, p1, k12, p2.
Row 14 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k2.
Row 15 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, k12, p2.
Row 16 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p3, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p1, k1, p12, k2.
Row 17 (RS): p2, C6F, C6B, p1, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, C6F, C6B, p2.
Row 18 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p3, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p1, k1, p12, k2.
Row 19 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, k12, p2.
Row 20 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p3, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p1, k1, p12, k2.
Row 21 (RS): p2, k12, p1, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, k12, p2.
Row 22 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p3, yo, p2tog, p4, yo, p2tog, p1, k1, p12, k2.
Row 23 (RS): p2, C6F, C6B, p1, k3, yo, k2tog tbl, k4, yo, k2tog tbl, k1, p1, C6F, C6B, p2.
Row 24 (WS): k2, p12, k1, p12, k1, p12, k1.
FRONT PIECE
Ribbing
Using needle 3.5 mm (US 4) or the needle size you need to get the right gauge, co 118 (124) 128
(134) sts. Work broken rib until the ribbing measures 3 cm (1.2″).
BODY
On the last WS row, prepare the pattern as follows:
Edge st, p20 (22) 23 (25), place marker, p3, 1 p inc, p3, 1 p inc, p3, 1 p inc, p4 (= 16 sts), place
marker, p11 (12) 13 (14), place marker, repeat *p2, 1 p inc* 14 times (= 42 sts), place marker p11
(12) 13 (14), place marker, p3, 1 p inc, p3, 1 p inc, p3, 1 p inc, p4 (= 16 sts), place marker, p20 (22)
23 (25), edge st = 138 (144) 148 (154) sts.
Now work the front piece like this: Edge st, work stockinette stitch across 20 (22) 23 (25) sts (k on
RS, p on WS), work pattern A across 16 sts, work stockinette stitch across 11 (12) 13 (14) sts,
work pattern B across 42 sts, work stockinette stitch across 11 (12) 13 (14), work pattern A
across 16 sts, work stockinette stitch across 20 (22) 23 (25) sts, edge st.
Tanjun – Slipover | No. 2240-242-2137 | © Hobbii 2024| 5
This results in 20 (22) 23 (25) sts of stockinette stitch between pattern A and the edge st on each
side as well as 11 (12) 13 (14) sts of stockinette stitch between pattern A and B.
Work as described above until the work measures 32 (32) 39 (39) cm / 12.6 (12.6) 15.4 (15.4)″.
From here, sts are decreased for the armholes.
Armholes
Bo sts on every other row as follows: 5, 3, 2, 1, 1, 1 (5, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1) 5, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1 (5, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1)
st(s). Then work even until pattern B is worked a total of 5 (5) 6 (6) times. From here, the neck
opening is shaped.
Neck opening
On the last WS row before bo, the increased cable sts from the beginning are decreased.
On row 24 of pattern B, 6 sts are decreased (p2tog) evenly across the 12 middle sts.
On the next RS row, bo the 9 (10) 11 (11) middle sts, work to end and turn the work. From here,
each side is worked separately.
Right shoulder (when wearing the slipover)
Work the WS while decreasing (p2tog) 4 sts across the cable at the neck.
Now decrease for the neckline on every other row as follows: 4, 3, 2, 1 (4, 3, 2, 2, 1) 5, 3, 2, 1, 1
(5, 3, 2, 1, 1) sts.
Work even until the work measures 24 (24) 26 (26) cm / 9.4 (9.4) 10.2 (10.2)″ from the armhole.
Now decrease for the shoulder.
On the last 4 WS rows, decrease 3 sts evenly across pattern A.
From the sleeve, bo 8, 8, 7, 7 (8, 8, 7, 7) 9, 9, 8, 6 (9, 9, 8, 6) sts on every other row.
Left shoulder (when wearing the slipover)
Join the yarn on the WS. Work the left shoulder following the same procedure as for the
right shoulder.
BACK PIECE
Using needle 3.5 mm (US 4) or the needle size you need to get the right gauge, co 118 (124) 128
(134) sts. Work broken rib until the ribbing measures 3 cm (1.2″).
Work stockinette stitch until the work measures 39 cm / 15.4″.
From here, sts are decreased for the armholes.
All sizes
Bo sts on every other row as follows: 5, 3, 2, 1, 1, 1 (5, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1) 5, 3, 2, 2, 2, 1 (5, 3, 2, 2, 2,
1,1) sts. Then work even until the armholes measures 22 (22) 24 (24) cm / 8.7 (8.7) 9.4 (9.4)″.
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Neck
On the next RS row, bo the 21 (22) 22 (22) middle sts, work to end and turn the work. From here,
each side is worked separately.
Right shoulder (when wearing the slipover)
All sizes
Now decrease for the neckline on every other row as follows: 2, 4 sts. Work even until the back
piece reaches the same length as the front piece.
Now decrease for the shoulder.
From the sleeve, bo 8, 7, 7, 7 (8, 8, 7, 7) 9, 8, 7, 7 (9, 8, 7, 7) sts on every other row.
SEAMING AND I-CORDS
I recommend that you wash and block both pieces before joining them in order to get the
best result. Sew the shoulder seams together with kitchener stitch and the side seams
together with mattress stitch.
Neckline
Using circular needle 3.5 mm (US 4) – 60 cm (24″), pick up sts along the neck opening. Pick
up 1 sts per st. Begin at the right shoulder.
I-cord
When you have reached the BOR, co 4 new sts using backward loop cast on. K 3 sts and k
the next st and the first st you picked up for the neckline tog tbl. There are now 4 sts on the
right-hand needle. Slip these 4 sts back onto the left-hand needle. *K3, k2tog tbl, slip 4 sts
back onto the left-hand needle; repeat from * until you have worked around the whole
neckline. Bo the 4 sts and sew them together with the 4 sts from the beginning.
SLEEVE I-CORDS
Using circular needle 3.5 mm (US 4) – 60 cm (24″), pick up sts along the armhole. Pick up 1
sts per st. In every fourth or fifth edge st, pick up 2 sts if necessary. Begin in the middle
below the sleeve.
Work an i-cord following the same procedure as for the neckline.
Weave in all ends. Congratulations – you have now finished your Tanjun Slipover!
Happy Crafting!
Marlis Zimmer
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Chart A
Legend
C4F
C4B
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CHART B
↑
Reading direction
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Legend
C8F
C8B
C6F
C6B
yo
k2tog tbl
p2tog tbl
k
p
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