393242

Version 1

Cambridge
TEXTURE-PATTERN SWEATER-JACKET
393242

YARN Ulrika Natur (100% wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g) STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTION
Ulrika (100% superwash wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g) See Tips and Shortcuts on the last page for common
Merino (100% Merino wool, 109 yd/100 m / 50 g) abbreviations and other useful information.
GAUGE Approx. 23 sts x 44 rows/rnds in texture
pattern on gauge-size needle = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-
necessary. leaning increase.
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand
POSITIVE EASE Approx. 6 in / 15 cm between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front loop
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 36¼ (39¾, 42¼, 45¼, 50,
= right-leaning increase.
54¾, 58¾, 63¾) in / 92 (101, 108, 115, 127, 139,
Ssk (slip, slip, knit): One at a time, slip 2 stitches
149, 162) cm
knitwise, place stitches back on left needle and knit
GARMENT UPPER ARM CIRCUMFERENCE Approx. 12¾
(13½, 14¼, 15¾, 17¾, 19¼, 20½, 21¾) in / 32 (34, together through back loops = left-leaning decrease.
36, 40, 45, 49, 52, 55) cm K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together = right-leaning decrease.
GARMENT BACK WIDTH Approx. 13¾ (14¼, 15¾, Wyb: With yarn held in back of work.
16½, 17, 17, 17¼, 17¼) in / 35 (36, 40, 42, 43, 43, 44, Wyf: With yarn held in front of work.
44) cm *-*: Repeat the instructions between asterisks.
GARMENT SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 14½ (15, 15½,
15½, 15¾, 15¾, 16¼, 16¼) in / 37 (38, 39, 39, 40, 40, Garment construction
41, 41) cm The jacket is worked from the top down, back and
GARMENT ARMHOLE DEPTH Approx. 8¼ (8¾, 9½,
forth. The two-color texture pattern is created with
10¼, 10¾, 11, 11½, 12¼) in / 21 (22, 24, 26, 27, 28,
29, 31) cm narrow stripes, garter stitch, and slipped stitches. The
GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 23¾ (24, 24¾, 25¼, 25½, shoulders and back neck are worked first and later
26, 26½, 26¾) in / 60 (61, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68) cm divided for the front and back. You’ll pick up and knit
YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS stitches for each sleeve cap while each piece is
Color 1: Approx. 400 (440, 460, 500, 560, 610, 660, worked for a short length and then the sleeve caps
720) g (color 327006, Chestnut Nature)
are knitted together with the rest of the body. Once
Color 2: Approx. 330 (350, 380, 420, 460, 510, 560,
the yoke is finished, the piece is divided for body and
600) g (color 327008, Moss Nature)
NEEDLES U. S. size 6 / 4 mm: 24-48 in / 60-120 cm sleeves so each can be worked separately. Finally, the
circular and set of 5 dpn (if preferred for sleeves) back collar, pockets, and I-cord front edging are
NOTIONS 6 locking ring stitch markers, stitch holder worked.
or smooth waste yarn, 2 buttons, ¾ in / 20 mm in
diameter Casting on stitches for underarms and I-cord:
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY Experienced Use the Backwards Loop Cast-on: *Form a loop so
DESIGNER Sara Ottosson
working end of yarn lies in front of yarn coming from
previous stitch; place loop on right needle.* Repeat *
Cambridge is a texture-pattern jacket inspired by tweed
to until you have made the specified number of cast-
and Manchester jackets. The texture pattern is worked
on stitches. Video: https://youtu.be/m-SyTHMSkbk
in stripes and slipped stitches so you only knit one color
at a time. The jacket is worked from the top down in a
Buttonholes: Work in texture pattern as established
clever construction with the sleeve caps and sleeves
until 6 stitches remain on the needle. Yarnover and
knitted together with the rest of the garment. It is both
knit the next two stitches together, continue in
challenging and relaxing knitting.
established texture pattern to end of row.

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Version 1

Counting stitches and rows: It is easiest to count the The shoulder increases are now finished and there are
number of stitches and rows on the wrong side. Each 133 (141, 157, 161, 169, 169, 171, 171) sts total =
stripe in each color is 2 rows and the stitches look 25 (27, 31, 31, 33, 33, 33, 33) sts for each front,
like knit stitches. 81 (85, 93, 97, 101, 101, 103, 103) sts for the back,
2 sts for the shoulder seams, and 1 st for each shoulder.
NOTE When the instructions say to work in pattern as
established (work as est) following the chart, it means Keep track of the texture pattern from this point on
that you should examine your work to see what the (see basic chart at the end of the pattern) and
texture pattern looks like and then continue working, continue from your place in the pattern, sizes S, M,
making sure that your stitch sequence follows the and L begin with color 1; all other sizes begin with
charted pattern. Take extra care as you increase and color 2. Now you will work a bit on each front and the
decrease. The texture pattern is written out for the back, and, at the same time, increase at center front
first row of the shoulders. You do not need to cut the for the jacket collar. Place 2 locking ring markers, one
yarn between color changes – instead, just twist the on each front, through the row you are now on and
two strands a half turn around each other and leave the markers on that row. You will use them
continue with the new color. later when you measure for the collar placement.

YOKE LEFT FRONT

With color 1 and gauge-size circular, using long-tail Begin on the side where the yarn is hanging. You will
cast-on, CO 37 (37, 37, 41, 41, 41, 43, 43) sts. only knit across the left front stitches = up to the
shoulder seam. When you come to the shoulder seam,
Set-up Row (WS), color 1: K1, pm, k1, pm, knit until 2 pm through the st (so you lock it) and drop marked st
sts rem, pm. k1, pm, k1. from the needle.
Row 1 (RS), color 2: K1, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyb, slm, M1L,
*k1, sl1 wyb*; rep *-* until 1 st before marker, k1, Row 1 (RS): K1, M1L, work as est until 1 st before end
M1R, slm, sl 1 wyb, slm, M1L, k1. of row, k1.
Row 2 (WS), color 2: K2, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyf, slm, M1L, Row 2 (WS): K1, work as est until 1 st before end of
knit to marker, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyf, slm, M1L, k2. row, k1.
Row 3, color 1: K2, sl 1 wyb, M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, Repeat Rows 1-2 another 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 12, 12)
*sl 1 wyb, k1*; rep *-* until 1 st before marker, sl 1 times (= 34 (37, 41, 41, 44, 44, 46, 46) sts on front).
wyb, M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, sl 1 wyb, k2.
Row 4, color 1: Knit to marker, M1R, slm, k1, slm, The last row is Row 2 with color 2. Do NOT cut yarn.
M1L, knit to marker, M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, knit to Slip sts for left front from left to right needle.
end of row.
Row 5, color 2: K1, *sl 1 wyb, k1*; rep *-* to marker, BACK
M1R, slm, sl 1 wyb, slm, M1L, *k1, sl 1 wyb*; rep *-*
until 1 st before marker, k1, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyb, M1L, Begin with a new ball of each color of yarn. Now you
*k1, sl 1 wyb*; rep *-* until 1 st before end of row, k1. will only knit over the back sts = up to the next
Row 6, color 2: Knit to marker, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyf, shoulder seam. When you come to the shoulder seam,
slm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, slm, sl 1 wyf, slm, M1L, pm through the st (so you lock it) and remove marked
knit to end of row. st from the needle.
Row 7, color 1: K1, *k1, sl 1 wyb*; rep *-* to marker,
Begin on RS and work back and forth in pattern as est
M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, *sl 1 wyb, k1*; rep *-* until 1
with 1 knit st at the beginning/end of every row (=
st before marker, sl1 wyb, M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, *sl
edge sts) until you’ve worked 18 (20, 20, 20, 22, 22,
1 wyb, k1*; rep *-* until 1 st before end of row, k1.
26, 26) rows. The last row is Row 2 with color 2. Cut
Row 8, color 1: Knit to marker, M1R, slm, k1, slm,
yarn. Slip back sts from left to right needle.
M1L, knit to marker, M1R, slm, k1, slm, M1L, knit to
end of row.

Repeat Rows 5-8 another 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6, 6) times.

Sizes S, M, L only: Repeat Rows 5-6 once more.

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Version 1

RIGHT FRONT Row 3, color 2: *Knit to marker, slm, sl 1 wyf, knit

until 1 st before marker, sl 1 wyf, slm*; rep *-* once
Use the same balls of yarn that you used for the back. more, knit to end of row.
You will only knit over the sts for the right front = up Row 4, color 1: K1, M1L, *work as est to marker, slm,
to shoulder seam. k1, M1L, work as est until 1 st before marker, M1R, k1,
slm*; rep *-* once more, work as est until 1 st before
Row 1 (RS): K1, work as est until 1 st before end of end of row, M1R, k1 (= 6 sts increased).
row, M1R, k1. Row 5, color 1: Knit across = work as est.
Row 2 (WS): K1, work as est until 1 st before end of Work Rows 2-5 another 2 (2, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 4) times.
row, k1.
Sizes L and 2XL only: Repeat Rows 2-3 once more =
Repeat Rows 1-2 another 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 12, 12) 29 (31, 31, 33, 37, 41, 45, 45) sts on each sleeve and
times (= 34 (37, 41, 41, 44, 44, 46, 46) sts on front). 40 (43, 47, 48, 52, 53, 56, 56) sts on each front.
The last row is Row 2 with color 2. Cut yarn. Slip sts
for right front from left to right needle. NOTE Before you begin knitting, read all the way
through the following section, as several steps occur
SLEEVE CAPS AND ARMHOLES simultaneously.

Begin with the yarn at the left shoulder. Increases for Continue increasing for the lapels at center front on
the lapel at center front will continue on every other every RS row a total of 6 (5, 5, 6, 4, 3, 1, 1) times until
row at the same time as you first pick up sts for the there are 46 (48, 52, 54, 56, 56, 57, 57) sts on each
sleeve caps, place new markers, and then also front (once the increases are finished, work front
increase on the sleeves. pieces straight down in texture pattern). AT THE
SAME TIME, beginning on next row, increase on the
Pick-up Row (RS), color 1: K1, M1L, work as est until 2 sleeves on every 4th row instead, a total of 11 (11, 13,
sts rem on front, *ssk, pm, pick up and knit 8 (9, 9, 9, 14, 13, 10, 8, 7) times until there are 51 (53, 57, 61,
10, 11, 12, 12) sts along the edge to the “locked” st 63, 61, 61, 59) sts on each sleeve. Don’t forget the
(shoulder seam), remove marker and knit the st, pick texture pattern, k1 st beginning and end of each row
up and knit 8 (9, 9, 9, 10, 11, 12, 12) sts along the (= edge sts), and the slip sts forming sleeve seams
edge, pm* (now you are knitting over the back sts), when you working with color 2.
k2tog, work as est until 2 sts rem on back; rep *-*
once more (now you are knitting over the right front Sizes XS, S, M, L, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL only: Work 1 row in
sts), k2tog, work as est until 1 st rem, M1R, k1 = pattern on WS after the last increase row.
17 (19, 19, 19, 21, 23, 25, 25) sts on each sleeve,
34 (37, 41, 41, 44, 44, 46, 46) sts on each front and Size XL only: Work 3 rows in pattern as est after last
79 (83, 91, 95, 99, 99, 101, 101) sts on back. increase row.

Row 1 (WS), color 1: Knit across = work as est. Measure out at the center of the diagonal part of both
lapels by measuring from the markers placed at the
Now also work sleeve sts in texture pattern. Begin point of the lapel and then divide the measurement in
with 1 slip st, 1 knit st, etc. The first and last sts of the half. Move the markers to the center point and leave
sleeves are made as a “seam” the same way as for the markers in place.
shoulder seams = slip the st with yarn on WS when
you knit with color 2 and knit it on every row with Now continue the increases on the sleeves at the
color 1. The way the seams are worked is described at same time as increasing at the sides of front and back
the beginning of the instructions. to shape the armholes. Different sizes increase at
different rates so read carefully so you can follow the
Row 2 (RS), color 2: K1, M1L, *work as est to marker, instructions for only your size. Don’t forget the seams
slm, sl 1 wyb, M1L, work as est unti 1 st before along the armholes = first and last st of each sleeve.
marker, M1R, sl1 wyb, slm*; rep *-* once more, work
as est until 1 st before end of row, M1R, k1 (= 6 sts Sizes XS, S, M, L, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL only:
increased). Row 1 (RS): K1, *work as est to marker, M1R, slm,
work as est to marker, slm, M1L*; rep *-* once more,

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Version 1

work as est until 1 st before end of row, k1 (= 4 sts 1 st before end of row, k1 = 221 (241, 257, 273, 301,
increased). 329, 353, 381) sts rem for body.
Row 2 (WS): Work as est. Next Row (WS), color 1: K1, *work as est to cast-on
sts, k2 (3, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 9), pm, k1, pm*; rep *-* once
Row 3: K1, *work as est to marker, M1R, slm, work 1 more. Work as est until 1 st before end of row, k1.
st as est, M1L, work as est until 1 st before marker,
M1R, work 1 st as est, slm, M1L*; rep *-* once more, The two marked sts (one one each sleeve) will form
work as est until 1 st before end of row, k1 (= 8 sts seams precisely as on the shoulders and along
increased). armholes = on each color 2 row, slip that st and, on
Row 4: Work as est. every color 1 row, knit that st as before.
Work Rows 1-4 another 0 (2, 2, 1, -, 3, 4, 7) times and NOTE For some sizes, it means that you slip 3 sts in a
then work Rows 1-2 once more = row which is as it should be.
53 (59, 63, 65, -, 69, 71, 75) sts on each sleeve,
49 (55, 59, 59, -, 65, 68, 74) sts on each front, and Work back and for the as est with 1 knit st at
85 (97, 105, 105, -, 117, 123, 135) sts on back. beginning and end of every row until body measures
approx. 2½ (2½, 2, 2, 1½, 1½, 1½, 1½) in / 6 (6, 5, 5,
Size XL only: 4, 4, 4, 4) cm from underarms. Make a buttonhole on
Row 1 (RS): K1, *work as est to marker, M1R, slm, the right front on the next RS row.
work 1 st as est, M1L, work as est until 1 st before TIP Pm on left front on the same row as for
marker, M1R, work 1 st as est, slm, M1L*; rep *-* once buttonhole to make it easier to place buttons when
more, work as est until 1 st before end of row, k1 (= 8 finishing.
sts increased).
Row 2 (WS): Work as est. Continue as est until body measures approx. 7 (7, 6¾,
6¾, 6¼, 6¼, 6¼, 6¼) in / 18 (18, 17, 17, 16, 16, 16,
Row 3: K1, *work as est to marker, M1R, slm, work as 16) cm. Make a buttonhole on the right front on the
est to marker, slm, M1L*; rep *-* once more, work as next RS row.
est until 1 st before end of row, k1 (= 4 sts increased).
Row 4: Work as est. Continue as est until body measures approx. 14¼
Work Rows 1-4, - (-, -, -, 2, -, -, -) times = (14¼, 13¾,13¾, 13½, 13½, 13½, 13½) in / 36 (36,
- (-, -, -, 69, -, -, -) sts on each sleeve, 35, 35, 34, 34, 34, 34) cm, ending with a WS color 1
- (-, -, -, 62, -, -, -) sts on each front, and row. On the next row (RS), firmly BO knitwise with
- (-, -, -, 111, -, -, -) sts on back. color 1.

All sizes: SLEEVES

Continue working as est, but, increase on both sleeves
and at armhole on every other row = every RS row, a Place the held 67 (69, 73, 81, 91, 97, 101, 105) sleeve
total of 7 (5, 5, 8, 11, 14, 15, 15) times. Finish with a sts onto needle. The sleeves are worked in the round,
WS row in pattern = so don’t forget to read the chart only from right to
67 (69, 73, 81, 91, 97, 101, 105) sts on each sleeve, left.
56 (60, 64, 67, 73, 79, 83, 89) sts on each front, and
99 (107, 115, 121,133, 145, 153, 165) sts on back. The sleeves continue in pattern as est. Begin rnd at
center of underarm, where the side seam begins on
the body. With color 1, pick up and knit 4 (5, 5, 6, 7, 8,
BODY
10, 11) sts along underarm = 1 st in each cast-on st +
Now place all the sleeve sts on a holder and work on 1 st in gap between cast-on sts and sleeve sts. Work
the body. Measurements will now be taken from sleeve sts in pattern as est, and then pick up and knit
underarms. Note the pattern row you ended sleeves 3 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10) sts along underarm = 1 st in gap
on so you will know where to begin later on. between cast-on sts and sleeve sts + 1 st in each cast-
on st. Pm for beginning of rnd (BOR).
Division Row (RS), color 1: K1, *work as est to marker,
remove marker, place the 67 (69, 73, 81, 91, 97, 101, The first st of the rnd forms the seam under the
105) sleeve sts on holder, CO 5 (7, 7, 9, 11, 13, 17, 19) sleeve, just as at the sides of the body. Slip that st on
sts for underarm*; rep *-* once more, work as est until every rnd with color 2, knit it on the first rnd with

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Version 1

color 1, and purl it on the second rnd. Work around as before end of row, k2.
est with the seam at center of underarm until sleeve Repeat Rows 1-2 another 9 (9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 11, 11)
measures approx. 3¼ (3¼, 2⅜, 1⅜, 1, ¾, ⅝, ⅝) in / 8 times.
(8, 6, 3.5, 2.5, 2, 1.5, 1.5) cm.
Next Row (WS): Knit across.
TIP Begin with the same type of st (slip/knit) in the
texture pattern directly after the seam as the st On the next row (RS), firmly BO knitwise with color 1;
before the seam. leave last st on needle = do NOT cut yarn as this st
will be used for the I-cord.
Now begin decreasing at center of underarm.
I-CORD
Decrease Rnd: K1 as est, k2tog, work as est until 2 sts
before BOR marker, ssk. Work an I-cord along the edges of the lapels on the
front pieces.
Work around as est, repeating Decrease Rnd every 3¼
(3¼, 2¾, 1½, 1, ¾, ¾, ⅝) in / 8 (8, 7, 4, 2.5, 2, 2, 1.5) Begin on right side of collar with st left from bind-off
cm a total of 4 (4, 5, 9, 14, 16, 19, 21) times = 66 (70, and still on the needle. CO 3 sts with backwards
72, 74, 76, 80, 82, 84) sts rem. loops. *Pick up and knit 1 st on edge, slip the 5 sts
from right to left needle, k3, ssk*; rep *-* in every
Continue without further shaping until sleeve other row along edge all the way down to the lower
measures 14½ (15, 15½, 15½, 15¾, 15¾, 16¼, 16¼) edge of body. Work the last row as: K2, BO 1 st, k1,
in / 37 (38, 39, 39, 40, 40, 41, 41) cm, ending with the BO 1 st, ssk, BO 1 st. Cut yarn.
second rnd of color 1 = a purl rnd.
On the next row, firmly BO knitwise with color 1. Cut On the other front edge, CO 4 sts, begin on WS at
yarns. lower edge of jacket and work I-cord the same way all
the way up to the bind-off on collar. BO the same way
Make the second sleeve the same way. as for first I-cord.

COLLAR POCKETS

Now you will make the back collar between the Pick up and knit the sts for the bottom of each pocket
markers placed on the lapels. along a RS row. Work pockets back and forth.

With WS facing you and color 1, beginning at the Place 2 markers, one marker 1½ in / 4 cm up from
marker on the left lapel, pick up and knit 12 (12, 12, lower edge and 2½ in / 6 cm in from front edge and
13, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts to corner between lapel and the the next marker 6¼ (6¼, 6¼, 6¼, 6¾, 6¾, 6¾, 6¾) in
straight side along neck edge, pick up and knit 12 (13, / 16 (16, 16, 16, 17, 17, 17, 17) cm straight to side
15, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts to shoulder seam, pick up seam from the first marker = on same row as first
33 (33, 33, 37, 37, 37, 39, 39) sts along back neck, 12 marker.
(13, 15, 15, 16, 16, 16, 16) sts from shoulder seam to With color 1, RS facing you and U. S. 6 / 4 mm circular
corner between straight side along neck edge and or dpn, making sure the yarn end is 20 in / 50 cm long
lapel, and then 12 (12, 12, 13, 13, 13, 14, 14) sts to so you can use it to sew down pocket sides, pick up
marker = a total of 81 (83, 87, 93, 95, 95, 99, 99) sts. and knit 37 (37, 37, 37, 41, 41, 41, 41) sts from the
top down through the sts, in an up-and-down facing
“u” shape between the sts = pick up in every st.

The RS of the collar is the same side as jacket’s WS Row 1 (WS): Sl 1 wyf, purl until 1 st rem, sl 1wyf.
and vice versa. Row 2 (RS): K1, *sl 1 wyb, k1*; rep *-* across.
Repeat Rows 1-2 until pocket measures 6¾ (6¾, 6¾,
6¾, 7, 7, 7, 7) in / 17 (17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18) cm.

Row 1 (WS): K1, purl until1 st before ens of row, k1. Next Row (WS): Sl 1 wyf, knit until 1 st rem, sl 1 wyf.
Row 2 (RS): K1, *k1, sl 1 wyb*; rep *-* until 2 sts

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Version 1

On the next row, firmly BO all sts knitwise with color

1.

Make the second pocket the same way.

Use the yarn end to sew down the pocket sides onto
the jacket. Place the opening on the pocket 6¾ (6¾,
6¾, 6¾, 7, 7, 7, 7) in / 17 (17, 17, 17, 18, 18, 18, 18)
cm up from the lower edge of pocket and sew with
running stitch = up and down thorough the fabric just
inside the edge sts. Be careful to follow the sts on the
jacket straight up/down from pocket corners.

FINISHING

Sew on buttons spaced as for buttonholes. Weave in

all ends neatly on WS. Dampen sweater-jacket,
preferably from a spray bottle. Gently squeeze out
excess water by rolling jacket in a towel. Lay jacket
flat to dry, patted out to finished measurements.
Button the buttons, fold the lapels and collar properly
and pin down pocket openings while the jacket dries.

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Color 1

Color 2

Knit on RS, purl on WS

Purl on RS, knit on WS

Sl 1 wyb
Version 1

Tips & shortcuts Abbreviations

TO AVOID QUESTIONS alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin,

bl = back loop, BOR = beginning of row/round,
Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern. cc = contrasting color, col = color, cont = continue,
dec = decrease, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop,
STITCH COUNT inc = increase, m = marker, mm = millimeters,
mc = main color, patt = pattern, pm = place marker,
Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as rep = repeat, rnd(s) = round/rounds,
recommended in the pattern. If your stitch count RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip,
doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, try sl m = slip marker, st(s) = stitches, tog = together,
again with larger or smaller needles or hook. If your WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over
gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item
will not be the correct size or shape.
KNITTING

HIGHLIGHT BO = bind off, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on,

dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, g st = garter stitch,
Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch,
pattern to make it easier to follow the instructions. k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches together,
kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, p = purl (stitch),
CHARTS pw = purlwise, RH = right hand needle,
ssk = slip, slip, knit, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch,
It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row
wyib = with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front
with a ruler and magnetic board or sticky note.

CROCHETING
EASE
ch = chain stitch, dc = double crochet,
The amount of ease included in our garments varies
dtr = double treble crochet, hdc = half double crochet,
depending on the type and shape of the garment. To
htr = half treble crochet, sc = single crochet,
determine the right size, we recommend that you first
sl st = slip stitch, tr = treble crochet,
measure your body. Then you can calculate the
tr tr = triple treble crochet
garment size depending on how much ease you want
the garment to have. The schematics for each piece
show all the garment measurements.
Difficulty
TWO-COLOR STRANDED KNITTING Beginner: Anyone with no experience
knitting/crocheting. Easy techniques and clear
When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same
explanations.
color, twist the color strands around each other on
Adventurous Beginner: For a beginner ready to take
the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the
the next step. Clear explanations so you can try some
back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several
new techniques.
rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the twists in
Intermediate: Anyone who has knitted/crocheted for a
the same place to prevent the yarns from showing
while but who wants a challenge. More advanced
through on the right side.
techniques and two steps occur at the same time.
Experienced: For experienced knitters/crocheters who
TIPS FÖR HAND DYED YARN
have already tried many techniques and methods.
Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. Advanced/uncommon techniques and several steps
The colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth occur simultaneously.
color mix, you can alternate between two skeins: knit two
rows from one and two rows from another skein.

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