CLOTHING ( 1st year) What is Clothing? Clothes or clothing are the terms used to describe the different types of materials worn on the body.
It is a human characteristic to protect our bodies from cold, rain and other climate change or weather conditions.
Early humans, who lived two million years ago used to cover and protect their bodies by wrapping tree leaves, woven grass or tree barks, bones, skull and the skin of dead animals, etc Unit 1 Tools and Equipments Tools and Equipments Used in Garment Construction:-
a) Measuring Tools. b) Marking Tools. c) Cutting Tools. d) Sewing Tools. e) Finishing tools. Measuring Tools. Measuring tape.
● Tape should be of good quality with a smooth
surface and with metal tipped ends that prevent the tapes from raveling. ● At one end of the tape the metal tip is long (3”) and is used when vertical measurements are taken. The other end has a short metal tip with a small hole at the centre. ● Tape is marked with centimeters as well as inches to facilitate the conversion from one system to another. ● Generally tapes are of 150 centimeters (60 inches) long. Rulers and Yard Stick ● Yardstick is the best device for taking long, straight measurements on paper. It can be wooden, plastic or metal.
● Sticks of good quality and that are smoothly
finished should be used.
● Ruler of 15 cm to 30 cm long and yard stick of
1.5 meter scale marked in centimeters and inches are commonly used. L -Square / Scale. ● It resembles the letter L – with perfect right angled corner.
● L shaped unit with a short side and a long
side.
● Long side is 24 inches and short arm is 14
inches . Gauge
● A gauge is useful to mark areas where
constant measurement is desired.
● It is ideal for marking hems, tucks, top
stitching lines, pleats, buttonhole placements and lengths.
● Notches can be cut on the guage for
marking on the fabric. Hip Curve Ruler The hip curve is a tool for making pattern as well as fitting adjustments at, hip line.
Anywhere a slight curve is needed, this is the
best ruler to use.
This type of ruler is particularly useful for
making side-seam adjustments. French Curve A French curve is used to draw curves at the armhole, neckline, curved darts, sleeve cap curves etc.
French curves are used in drafting patterns or
making pattern alterations.
Use to connect points to create a smooth curve,
blending seam lines and truing pattern alterations. Perfect for the neck curve and armscye Marking Tools. Tailor’s chalk ● Most commonly used dressmakers marking tool is tailors chalk and it is made of either clay or wax.
● Tailors chalk is very safe because it does not leave
any stain or permanent marking on the material. Light brushing is sufficient to rub off the marked lines completely.
● It is available in various colours like white, yellow,
blue, red etc with different sizes and shapes which facilitates quick and efficient marking. Tracing Wheel ● Tracing wheel is an instrument with multiple teeth on a wheel attached to a handle.
● Needle-point wheel, makes a faint line that
is desirable on fine thin fabrics.
● It is used with or without dressmaker’s
carbon paper to transfer pattern marking onto the fabric. Dressmaker's Carbon Paper By using carbon paper constructional details such as shape of the pattern, cutting and stitching line can easily be transferred on the material.
These are available in white and several colours.
Cutting Tools. Shears ● For cutting fabric, Dressmaking shears are heavy duty scissors.
● They also have longer blades (8' to 12').
● Shears differ from scissors, in which shears
have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for the second, third and fourth fingers. Pinking shears ● They produce a notched cutting line (zig zag) which gives a neat appearance to the inside of garments, as these shears have saw tooth blades.
● These shears are used for pinking seams or
decorative edges on felt, suede, chintz, etc.
● Blade lengths range from 7" to 10 1/2" and are
available in lightweight models, as well as scalloping shears for a more rounded effect. Scissors Scissors are hand operated cutting instruments. They are 5 to 6 inches long, used for light cutting, trimming, clipping corners and cutting curves.
EMBROIDERY SCISSORS: These are light weight cutting scissors with 3 to 4 inches in size with narrow blade tapering into two sharp points. BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS: These scissors are adjusted to cut button holes of required length SNIPPING SCISSORS: These are used for trimming or clipping seams and cutting corners, and are generally 15 to 17.5 cm long with narrow blades and tapered sharp points TRIMMING SCISSORS: These are spring-action clippers with or without a finger loop featuring very short blades for cutting thread tails and clipping seams quickly. SNIPPING SCISSORS: EMBROIDERY SCISSORS:
BUTTONHOLE SCISSORS TRIMMING SCISSORS:
Rotary cutter This tool helps in cutting more than five layers of cloth at a time.
It have a round circular shaped blade with a guard in the front
of the blade.
Blade sizes range from 18 mm to 60 mm in diameter. Smaller
diameter blades make cutting out curves and details much easier.
Larger-diameter blades make quick work of long, straight
cuts. Sewing Tools Sewing Needles Hand sewing needle that feels comfortable, glides through the fabric, has an eye that you can thread, doesn’t bend and is the right size for the fabric you are sewing. Sewing Needles Thread A thin fine cord formed by spinning and twisting short fibers into a continuous strand.
Threads are either made of a natural
fiber (cotton, wool, silk, linen) or synthetic fibers (rayon, polyester, nylon). Pins it’s best to pin pieces together before stitching.
You can use standard pins, but make a
note that when sewing silk, use the finest pins to avoid making permanent holes in your fabric. Seam Ripper
The seam ripper is designed to slip
between the fabric layers and snip the thread with precision. Trying to rip a seam with scissors could damage the fabric. Thimble This nifty metal object (also found in plastic and leather) is shaped like a bucket and designed to protect your finger when pushing a needle through layers of fabric. Sewing Machine A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread.
Sewing machines were invented during
the first Industrial Revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing work performed in clothing companies. Domestic Sewing Machine Electric Sewing Machine Industrial Sewing Machine Finishing Tools Iron There are different types of irons available in the market like flat iron, thermostatic, automatic, non automatic, charcoal, steam iron etc.
Irrespective of types available in the
market one should remember to keep base of the iron very clean Iron board Ironing boards can be free standing or mounted depending on the available space and frequency of use.
Good padding should be provided to
cover the base and it should be made from a natural fiber fabric like cotton or wool for best pressing Overlocker An overlock is a kind of stitch that sews over the edge of one or two pieces of cloth for edging, hemming, or seaming.
Overlockers are used to clean-finish the seam
allowances. Its primary function is to clean finish a raw edge, giving the project a professional appearance. Flatlock machines Flatlock machines are available in two types - ● A flatbed and ● Cylinder bed. Usage of these machines: Flatlock machines are used for hemming sleeve and bottom of the knits products. Flat lock sewing machines are normally used for making cover-stitches. They have 2-3 needles and are good for hemming the sleeves and bottom portions of knitwear. Parts of Sewing Machine Different Parts of Sewing Machine: ● Balance Wheel ● Tension Discs ● Bobbin Winder ● Tension Spring ● Face Plate Thumb Screw ● Thread Guide ● Feed Dog ● Thread Take-Up Lever ● Needle Bar Bushing ● Throat Plate ● Needle Bar Thread Guide ● Stitch Regulator ● Needle Clamp Thumb Screw ● Bobbin Winder Thread Tension ● Needle Clamp ● Bobbin Winder Spool Pin ● Needle ● Needle Plate ● Presser Foot Thumb Screw ● Bobbin Case ● Presser Foot ● Bobbin ● Pressure Regulating Thumb Screw ● Spoon Pin Balance Wheel In a traditional handheld machine and in a semi-auto machine, you can see that there is a wheel on the top right corner of a sewing machine. Basically, it is used to run the machine manually. Spool Pin A spool pin is placed vertically or horizontally which actually used for holding the spool of threads and this is a fixed part of a sewing machine. Bobbin A bobbin is one of an integral part of sewing machines. In a bobbin, threads are wired which is used for sewing. You need to set the required thread into a bobbin. After finishing you have to refill the bobbin. Bobbin Holder/Case Bobbin holder is used to holding the bobbin into the machine. Bobbin holder also is known as the bobbin case which is one of the key parts. Presser Foot A presser foot is used to hold the fabric in the right place on the throat plate so that fabric cannot slip around. Tension Discs and Tension Spring The tension discs used to control the thread tension to give proper stitch on the fabric. If there is a problem of tension then you may see that stitch is not placing properly, it may loose or tight. A tension spring is added to control the pressure so that two different fabrics can join together with proper stitch Thread Guide Thread guide is a small part of a machine that has a hole inside, is responsible for properly guide the threads from the spool pin to the hole of a needle. Thread guide is made of steel or metal. Throat Plate The throat plate is placed between the pressure foot and bobbin case. This plate also is known as a needle plate. It is made of metal and at the time of sewing, a pressure foot is placed on top of the throat plate. Stitch Regulator By using a stitch regulator, you can regulate the type of stitch on the fabric. In accordance with your requirements, you can switch into a different stitch or adjust your sewing stitch. Feed Dog
Feed dog helps to feed the fabric to the required direction, either backward or forward using its teeth. It is a metal-based product.
Thread Take-Up Lever
The take-up lever is located directly above the presser foot of a sewing machine. It's the part of the machine that pulls the thread from the spool to feed it through the machine and lifts the thread back up out of the cloth after a stitch has been made.
Presser Bar Lifter
The presser bar lifter is used to raise and lower the presser bar, so that the sewing machine foot is placed in contact with the feed dog Maintenance and Defects of Sewing Machine Maintenance of Sewing Machine Cleaning of sewing machine. ● Dust is the enemy of machinery. To keep your machine as clean as possible, store it under a dust cover or in a hard case. ● Clean dust and loose thread after sewing. ● Change Needles Regularly. ● Use good quality accessories. Oiling the sewing machine ● Quality sewing oil is clear and should not stain your garments. ● Oiling the machine will help these parts run smoother and for longer. Annual Servicing Common Sewing Machine Defects. 1. Thread break
Causes: Remedies: ● Sudden jerk while sewing ● Uniform smooth start of the machine ● A manufacturing defect in the needle with ● Use of good quality needle and replace in ‘eye’ being rough proper interval ● Use of poor quality thread ● Use of good quality thread ● Thread getting wrap around the spool ● Do proper threading in the machine holder ● Use of recommended thread ● Improper selection of thread 2. Missed or irregular stitch 3. Fabric not moving forward Causes: Causes: ● Needle put in the wrong way round ● Stitching has bunched forming a lump ● Insufficient pressure on the pressure ● Feed teeth not raised foot ● Negligible pressure on the pressure foot ● Blunt or bent needle ● Stitch length set at Improper selection of thread
Remedies: Remedies:
● Check the manual for proper needle ● Increase stitch length
● A needle inserted in the wrong way ● Zig-zag too wide for the thickness of the fabric ● Fabric pushed or pull through machine ● Stitch length too long for thickness in ● Incorrect foot attachment fabric ● Incorrect needle plate attached ● High thread tension ● High SPI (stitch density)
Remedies: Remedies: ● Insert needle as directed in manual ● Change to a narrower stitch width ● Allow fabric to feed at its normal pace ● Change to a shorter stitch length ● Attach foot as required ● Check the thread tension ● Check needle plate ● Set SPI based as per the material Thank You -Dikshita Chauhan
