MODULE PROFEE06 – EDUKASYONG PANTAHANAN AT PANGKABUHAYAN

CHAPTER 4: Basic Clothing

What is DRESSMAKING?
Dressmaking is defined as the craft of sewing clothes and dresses. An example of
dressmaking is the art of sewing a
beautiful dress from fabric.

Sewing Tools and Equipment

Sewing equipment different
tools are used in garment
construction. The skillful use of the
different sewing equipment will help
take body measurement and
drafting pattern with accuracy and
speed. Success in sewing calls for the right tools at the right time. All tools must be
appropriate in a proper order and one must know how to use them to save time and
produce the best result.

MEASURING TOOLS

Tape Measure - A flexible measuring device used in taking body measurements. The
front has the measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on the other side. Fiberglass
tape is commonly used by dressmakers.

Sewing Gauge - A small ruler with a sliding guide and is about six inches long. This
gauge is used for measurements at hem lines, button holes and areas where other small
measurements require checking, such as pleats and tucks. The gauge is usually made of
metal or plastic.

Rulers - A ruler measuring 12 inches or even 18 inches, either clear or solid. It is a useful
tool to have for measuring and drawing straight seam lines and cutting lines. It also aids
in connecting lines. A clear ruler is also a good tool for marking buttonholes.

Yardstick - A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked hardwood or metal. It is used for

marking hemlines and checking grainlines when laying out the pattern.

L-square - The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer measurements to the draft pattern.
It also divides the garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect squares and is
useful in making straight lines and numbers. It can also function as a tape
measure. It has two arms connected perpendicularly.
a. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.

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b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.

French Curve - This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and armhole of the
pattern.

CUTTING TOOLS
Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly maintained. Sharp cutting
tools make clean cuts and well-defined notches and they do not damage fabric. On the
other hand, dull tools slow the cutting process, and make your hand and wrist tire easily.
Sewing cutting tools should not be used for another household task. Cutting tools must
be sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for better use.

Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears -

These are made of quality steel and hold a
sharp cutting edge. The blades move
easily and cut smoothly along the entire
length and the points should come
together. Shears have the length of 7- 12
inches and are satisfactory for most
apparel fabrics.
a. All steels, chrome-plated shears
are for heavy duty cutting
b. Stainless steel blades and plastic
handles are fine for lightweight fabrics
c. A serrated edge shears give
maximum cutting control and is used for
synthetic fibers and slippery knits

Pinking Shears - This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes.
This is used to finish seams and raw edges and to create decorative edges on many types
of fabric. It cuts a ravel-resistant edge. This is not satisfactory for straight cutting.

Cutting scissors
a. Trimming scissor - It is 3-4 inches long. It is used for trimmings, clipping threads and
snipping slashes.
b. Embroidery scissor - It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp
for use in working with fine details in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work.
c. Buttonhole scissor - This is intended for making buttonholes.

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Thread Clippers - Thread clippers are a handy little spring-loaded cutting tool that allows
for the snipping of threads. These clippers are specifically used to snip threads and they
are not designed to cut fabric.

Seam Ripper - Seam rippers are specifically designed for ripping out stitches from
seams, either as a result of an error or during alterations. They should be used carefully
to prevent damage to the fabric.

Rotary Cutter and Mat - It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cutter used by the garment
industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. The
rotary cutter is available in different sizes with different blades. When using a rotary cutter,
work on a cutting mat to protect the blade and the cutting surface.

MARKING TOOLS
Marking tools are required for transferring pattern markings to garment fabric
pieces and for making alterations on garments.

Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker pencil - This is available in white or pastel shades. This

chalk pencil is used to make fine lines on fabric. It has an erasing brush at one end.

Liquid Marking Pen - Liquid marking pens

come in two types. There is one that washes
out and one that fades after 48 hours. Those
that wash out should not be used on fabric that
show water marks. The mark should be
removed before pressing the fabric.

Tailor’s Chalk - This is essential as a marker

for use on materials. Tailor ‘s chalk is available
in a range of colors and is removed by
brushing.

Wax chalk - This is available in black or white and is used for woolen fabrics. Wax can
be removed by pressing.

Tracing Wheel - There are two types of tracing wheels, those with a serrated edge and
those with a smooth edge. The serrated edge wheel produces dots on the fabric and is
suitable for most types of fabrics. The smooth edge wheel is best for delicate fabrics and
unlike the serrated edge will not pierce more delicate fabrics. The smooth edge wheel
creates a solid line.

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Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper - Dressmaker ‘s carbon paper also called dressmaker ‘s

tracing paper is a specially waxed carbon paper that transfer ‘s the tracing wheel ‘s
markings to the fabric. A color of tracing paper should be chosen that is close to the color
of the fabric. Different brands of tracing paper have different instructions; therefore, the
instructions for the particular brand
that is purchased should be followed.

PINNING AND SEWING TOOL

Pincushion - A pincushion holds the straight pins and needles while working to prevent
accidents.

Hand Needle - Used in making temporary stitches and buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are
for general hand sewing.

Sewing Needle Threader - It aids in putting the thread to the needle. It consists of two
parts. The handle and the wire. The end of the wire that is away from the holder is folded.
Place the folded wire of the needle threader through the eye of the sewing needle.

Thimble - A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle
in sewing.

MATERIALS

Fabric - The Fabric is the cloth used in making garments. The plain cotton fabrics, flour
sack or catcha is the most appropriate material for beginners because these are very
easy to handle.

Thread - The thread is used in assembling or constructing the parts of the garment.
Threads vary in sizes. Heavy fabrics need stronger threads. Threads should have the
same color with that of the fabric used.

Types of Sewing Machines

Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It should be
used correctly in accordance with the job requirements.
1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school.
This is also called ―Domestic Sewing Machine‖. It is run by foot and may also be
converted to electric power machine.

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2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is sometimes called „straight stitching

machine‖ or industrial sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication and is used by tailors
and dressmakers.

3. Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it ―small machine. It finishes the raw
edges of the pattern for construction.

4. Embroidery Machine. This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different
kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and
other novelty items.

5. Button Holer Machine. This is used in making buttonholes on garments.

6. Button Attachment Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the garments.

7. Double Needle Machine. This is used in the construction of the different kinds of
clothing especially for the inseam, out seam and side seam.

8. Bartacking Machine. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets

Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the upper and lower
parts.

The Upper Parts is composed of:

1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.
2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle.
3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted,
and the shuttle and lower thread are placed.

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.

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6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.

7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the
needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place
while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the
needle clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin
while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the
stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in
motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts

Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed

1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the bobbin threads come
out.
3.Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The cabinet
has drawers and screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head.

The following are the lower parts of the sewing machine and their uses:
1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through the pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the hinges

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PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
The principles of designs are concepts used to organize or arrange the structural
elements of design. These the ways in which these principles are applied the affects the
expressive content, or the message of the work.

Balance - According to this principle, from the centered of the dress, design should be
identified on both sides may be achieved
ways:
a. Symmetrically or the formal balance -
can be described as having equal "weight" on
equal sides of a centrally placed like a see
saw. This is an easy way of balancing but
such
balance lends monotony to the design.
b. Asymmetrically or the informal balance
– When the structure decoration and
accessories are different both sides from the
center of the design. In this design attraction
both sides are created by using different
accessories.
c. Proportion - is the pleasing relationship of
all parts of the object with one another. Proportion refers to the relative size and scale of
the various elements in a design. The issue is the relationship between objects, or parts,
of a whole.

Emphasis – every pleasing design has one part that is more interesting than any other.
This is the emphasis or the center of interest.

Rhythm – these are smooth movement repeated again and again. Rhythm is an
important principle of art. It is created by repeated use of the design. If there is rhythm in
a design, the eye would move easily from one part to the other.
Rhythm can be created in three ways in a design:
a. Repetition of lines, colors, or accessories. Parallel lines are formed by the use of
seams, buttons, embroidery, lace, etc. which helps uninterrupted eye movement.
b. Radiation. Rhythm can also be created by the radiated lines. Eyes can move easily
from one part to the other on the small lines created by gathers. Such lines can be seen
in gathers on neckline, arm and skirt.
c. Gradation. Rhythm can be created by gradual change of lines, shape or shade of the
color.

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Harmony - means a relationship of different portion of a design. Harmony should be

achieved through judicious use of color, shape, and texture to give a feeling of oneness.

COLOR THEORY
The first thing you usually
notice about clothes or anything is
their color. Before you start studying
which colors look best together, you
should learn the meaning of color
terms and the rules that apply to
colors.

The Color Wheel Primary Colors –

the sources of all colors, even
though there are thousands and thousands of colors in the world, they are all made up of
these colors – red, blue and yellow.
Secondary Colors – are produced when mixing two equal amount of primary colors. If
you mix equal amount or yellow and blue you will have green, equal parts of red and blue
will have violet, and red and yellow you will have orange. Look at the color wheel you will
find these colors – orange, green and violet.
Intermediate Colors – are produced by mixing two equal amount of primary and
secondary colors. Example, if you mix equal parts of yellow (primary color) and green
(secondary color) you will have yellow-green. Noticed that yellow-green is found between
yellow and green on the color wheel.

The intermediate colors are;

Yellow + green = yellow-green Red + violet = red-violet
Blue + green = blue-green Red + orange = red-orange
Blue + violet = blue-violet Blue + orange = blue-orange

Pure Colors – are the primary, secondary and intermediate colors because they have no
white, black and gray in them. Pure colors are also called ―normal, true and basic colors.
Tints – when pure colors are mixed with white, they are made lighter. Example, when
white is added to red you have pink. In other words, pink is a tint of red. The more white
you add, the lighter the pink will be. Tints are also called ―pastels.
Shades – when pure colors are mixed with black, they are made darker. Example, when
black is added to red you have maroon, a shade of red. The more black you add, the
more darker you have.
Grayed colors – most colors we used in clothes are grayed colors rather than bright,
pure colors you see on the color wheel. Grayed colors are also referred to as ―soft colors
or ―dull colors. The more gray you add, the more duller the color will be.

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Neutrals – are white, black and gray. They look well with another and with all other colors.
The more grayed colors becomes, the more different colors it will harmonize with.

Warm and Cool Colors

Cool colors – are green, blue-green, blue, blue-violet, violet. Blue is the coolest color.
They are adjacent to one another in the color wheel.
Warm colors – are red, red-orange, orange, yellow-orange, and orange. Red is the
warmest color. They are also adjacent in the color wheel.

Qualities of Colors
Hue – is the family group name of a color. It is the name of a color. Ones they are
combined differently and given new names.
Value – refers to the lightness or the tint or the darkness of the shade. The scale of the
value colors are from the very lightest tint to the very darkest of the shade.
Intensity – means the brightness or dullness of a color. When you refer to a color as
―bright or ―very bright or ―dull or ―very dull‖ you are describing its intensity. Example,
green peppers are bright yellow-green, while olives are dull yellow green.

Color Schemes
The beauty of any color scheme depends upon how well the colors harmonize. To
harmonize, colors must appear to belong together.
1. One-color harmony (monochromatic color) – the easiest color scheme to follow is
one that uses the same color in different values and intensity. Example, dark blue suit
with very dark blue accessories and a light blue blouse.
2. Adjacent color harmony – or analogous color harmony. Since they are near each
other on the color wheel, neighbor color harmony. Example, yellow-orange, orange, and
yellow green are next to each other on the color wheel; therefore, a pleasing adjacent
color harmony may be made from them.
3. Complementary Color Harmony – these are colors that are opposite in the color
wheel. Using these colors may be very pleasing.
a. Complementary colors – directly opposite in the color wheel. Example, red and green,
blue and orange, yellow and violet.
b. Split complementary colors – a variation of the complementary color scheme. In
addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its complement.
c. Triad - A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color
wheel. Triadic color harmonies tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use pale or
unsaturated versions of your hues.

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Reference/s:

Videos:

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y01p-22l0NI&t=45s
2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hFzrggHI-oo&t=443s
3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGHC2PiD_X4

Assessment under the K to 12 for TLE teachers. DEPEd order no.8, 2015.
Retrievedonline at http://www.deped.gov.ph.

Corpuz, B. B. & Salandanan G. G. (2015) Principles of teaching 2 with TLE.

QuezonCity: Lorimar Publishing.

Crisostomo K. R. and Godoy M.M (2015) Useful for life: Dressmaking. Makati City:
Don Bosco Press.

Gregersen, E. 5 Components of Information Systems. Retrieved from

https://www.britannica.com/list/5-components-of-information-systems

K-12 Curriculum guide for TLE grades 1-6. Retrieved from https://www.deped.gov.ph/.

Macatangay, L. A. (2015). Entrepreneurship. Makati City: Don Bosco Press

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