Lesson Sewing Machine and Seamline PDF

UNIT
Sewing Equipments and

Tools
Structure
1.0 Introduction
1.1 Measuring Tools
1.2 Marking Tools
1.3 Cutting Tools
1.4 Sewing Tools
1.5 General Tools
Learning Objectives
After studying this unit, you will be able to
Know the type of sewing equipment
Identify the best tools used in construction of various parts of the garment
Know the uses of each sewing tool
Distinguish between various sewing tools
Unit Preview
Sewing equipment and tools will visualize the use of different tools used in
clothing construction. A good knowledge of these tools help in using the
Fashion Garment Making
appropriate tool for overall quality of the product prepared besides making the
task of sewing easy for the beginner.
1.0 Introduction
Sewing equipment and tools are needed for sewing which aid in construction
of garments of good quality and appearance. The equipment or tools are broadly
categorized into measuring, marking, cutting, general tools, and pressing tools.
A box with compartments is necessary to arrange these tools in one place.
1.1 Measuring Tools
Measuring tools are essential for accurate sewing, they are as follows
1. Measuring Tape
2. Small Ruler
3. Yard Stick or meter scale
4. L-Scale
5. Hem Gauge
6. Hem Marker
1.1.1 Measuring Tape
It has a smooth surface tape that is clearly marked with increments of inches
and centimetres on both sides. A firm good quality tape which will not stretch
after use is to be selected. It is usually about inch to inch wide and 60
inches long, and has 1/8 divisions (Fig1.1). It has centimetre markings along
other edge. At one end of the tape is attached a metal strip about 3 inches long
and at the other end, a small metal covering.
Fig. 1.1 Measuring tape
Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction
1.1.2 Rulers
There are two types of rulers, one is a small ruler of 1 inch wide and 6
inches long divided into 1/8" or 1/16" divisions on one side and centimetres on
the other side, second one is of 2 inches wide and 18 inches long. Generally
small rulers are made of clear plastic and larger rulers with metal, wood and
plastic. Small rulers are used for measuring small distances for tucks, hem facings,
etc. and used at the sewing machine. The larger rulers are used at the work
table.
Fig 1.2. Ruler
1.1.3 Yard stick or Meter scale

These may be wooden, plastic or metal. It is available in 36 inches or 45
inches in length (Fig. 1.3.). They are useful for checking grain lines when fixing
pattern pieces on material and for drawing long seam lines on fabric or paper.
Fig 1.3. Yard Stick or Meter Scale
1.1.4 L - Scale
It has arms or sides made of metal giving it a L-Shape; the long arm measures
24 inches, the short arm 14 inches. This has a perfect right angle corner and is
used to draw lines at right angles at the time of drafting. It is helpful during the
process of straightening the fabric to check whether the corners of the fabric
have got the right angled structure.
Fig.1.4. L-Scale
1.1.5 Hem Gauge

It is a 6 inch gauge can be made of cardboard or brought from a shop. It is
used as a measuring guide for marking width of the hems, pleats, and seam
allowances accurately. Notches are provided at regular intervals along the gauge.
One edge of the notch is at right angles to the straight edge of the gauge while
the other edge is slanted. While measuring or marking, use the straight edge of
the notch as the guide (Fig. 1.5).
Fig 1.5 Hem Gauge
1.1.6 Hem Marker

It is used for mark out a completely level hem line in chalk. It can be adjusted
to any hem length. This is commonly used for professional hem marking
Fig. 1.6 Hem Marker
1.2 Marking Tools

These are generally used for transferring the paper pattern on to the fabric.
1. Tracing Wheel
2. Dress Makers Carbon or Tracing Paper
3. Tailors Chalk
1.2.1 Tracing Wheel
This is a sharp toothed wheel used with dress makers carbon to transfer
pattern markings to cloth. It transfers the pattern markings-including seams,
darts, and pocket placements to the wrong side of the fabric. The small serrated
edge tracing wheel is appropriate for most fabrics (Fig. 1.7). A smooth edge
tracing wheel is used on fine or knit fabrics to avoid pulling of the yarns. Test it
to make sure that it does not bend easily and that the points are not blunt.
Fig. 1.7 Tracing wheel
1.2.2 Dress Makers Carbon or Tracing Paper

It is a wax-coated paper on one side and is available in different colours. It
is used with the tracing wheel to transfer pattern markings such as lines, darts,
pleats, etc. from paper patterns to the fabric being cut.
1.2.3 Tailors Chalk
It is made of wax or stone chalk, is used to transfer seam lines and other
pattern details to fabric. It is also used for marking fitting adjustments and hems.
A wax chalk is acceptable only for woollen fabric. Stone chalk is also available
in pencil form. This is available in assorted colours and in rectangular or triangular
shapes.
1.3 Cutting Tools

The following types of shears and scissors are made for both right-handed
and left- handed cutting. All cutting tools must be kept sharp, clean, and greasefree for accurate cuts.
1. Scissors
2. Dress Makers Shears or Bent handle Shears
3. Pinking Shears
4. Buttonhole Scissors
5. Electric Shears
6. Rotary Cutters
1.3.1 Scissors
They are 5 to 6 inches long. They are used for light cutting, trimming, clipping
corners, and cutting curves. These have round handles for both the blades.
They are designed for snipping threads, trimming seams, embroidery threads
and for cutting holes sharp pointed scissors with blades inch to one inch long
are very useful. The best types have blades of uneven width. They should be
held so that the wider blade is above the narrower blade. (Fig. 1.8)
Fig. 1.8 Scissor
1.3.2 Dress Makes Shears or Bent-Handle Shears:

They are 8 to 10 inches long (Fig.1.9). They are used for cutting all types
of fabrics. These are more satisfactory than scissors. Shears differ from scissors
in that they have one small ring handle for the thumb and a large ring handle for
the second, third and fourth fingers. It is better to select shears made of high
quality steel and having blades joined with a bolt or screw rather than a rivet.
The shears should not be dropped down. Protect the shears from rusting.
Fig. 1.9 Bent Handle Shear
1.3.3 Pinking Shears

They are 9 to 10 inches long (Fig. 1.10). They create a ravel resistant finish
to raw edges of firmly woven fabrics when the seam allowance is left unfinished.
They produce a notched cutting line (zigzag) which gives a neat appearance to
the inside of garments.
Fig. 1.10 Pinking Shear
1.3.4 Buttonhole Scissors

These can be adjusted so as to cut button holes in any size required
(Fig.1.11.). They are useful if one needs to make many button holes in a garment.
Fig. 1.11 Buttonhole scissors
1.3.5 Electric Scissors

These are used in most sample rooms. They are ideal for cutting silk, nylon,
and soft, hard-to-cut fabric (Fig. 1.12). These are light in weight and easy to
operate.
Fig. 1.12 Electric Scissor
1.3.6 Rotary Cutter

It requires more handling skill than shears. It cuts patterns and samples
faster than scissors do. The rotary cutter cuts all fabrics as well as leather and
vinyl. (Fig. 1.13). Rotary cutters are used in commercial garment industries.
Fig. 1.13 Rotary Cutters
1.4 Sewing Tools

These are used for hand and machine sewing, they are as follows;
1. Embroidery Frame
2. Hand Sewing Needle
3. Machine Needle
4. Sewing Thread
5. Needle Case
6. Needle Threaded
7. Thimbles
8. Stiletto
9. Bodkin
1.4.1 Embroidery Frame
This is a round frame used for keeping the fabric
stretched while the work is being done. It is available in
wood and plastic material.
Fig. 1.14 Embroidery Frame
1.4.2 Hand Sewing Needles

They are found in sizes from the very fine 9 to the heavy 18. The best
quality needles are made of hand ground steel. For hand sewing medium length
needles with a short oval eye is selected. The needles should have sharp Points
and smooth and well polished eyes. Sharp and short needles are suitable for
permanent stitching, Ball point needles are used to sew fine silk or polyester
jersey knits. Crewel needles are designed for embroidery work which have a
long oval eye and are therefore easily threaded.
Fig. 1.15 Hand Sewing Needles
1.4.3 Sewing Machine Needles

They are found in sizes from the fine 9 to
the heavy 18. The needles are made to fit the
specific make and model of each sewing
machine. The needle size should conform to the
weight, thickness, and kind of fabric.
1.4.4 Sewing Thread
With the wide and ever increasing range of
fabrics available in the market, it is important to
know the right sewing thread for the various Fig. 1.16 Hand Sewing Needles
types of fabrics. Both the thread and the garment
should share the same characteristics, as they have to be laundered and ironed
together, they should shrink and stretch together.
1.4.5 Needle Case
It is a round case with assorted sizes of hand and machine needles.
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1.4.6 Needle Threader

It is a device made of thin wire which aids in threading machine needles
and hand needles.
Fig. 1.17 Needle Threader
1.4.7 Thimbles
These are necessary for efficient and accurate hand sewing. A metal thimble
should fit snugly on the middle finger of the needle holding hand. There are two
types of thimbles: an open-ended thimble, preferred by tailors, and the more
common closed-ended thimble, called the dressmakers thimble (Fig. 1.18).
Fig. 1.18 Thimble
1.4.8 Stiletto
This is a sharp pointed instrument for punching holes in material. It is used
for forming eyelets in belts and for embroidery work.
Fig. 1.19 Stiletto
1.4.9 Bodkin
This is a flat needle with blunt end and a large eye, used for threading
ribbon or elastic through a tunnel or eyelet casing.
Fig. 1.20 Bodkin
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1.5 General Tools

These are the tools generally aid in cutting, construction and checking the
fir of the garments. They include;
1. Pins
2. Pin Cushion
3. Seam Ripper
4. Orange stick
5. Cutting Board or Table
6. Mirror
7. Dress form
8. Awl
9. Loop Turner
10. Paper
1.5.1 Pins
These come in different sizes for use in different fabrics. Use of pins for
basting and fixing of pattern pieces on to fabric makes work easier and more
accurate. The right choice of pins is most essential for good workmanship. Use
steel pins for silk or satin fabrics. The ball point pins are useful for fine knits.
1.5.2 Pin Cushion
A small stuffed cushion made of wool or felt, filled with wool or hair to hold
the pins while working near the table is more useful. Pin cushion made with an
elastic strap that can fastened to the wrist makes work faster.
Fig.1.21 Pin Cushion
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1.5.3 Seam Ripper

This is useful for ripping out machine stitches. It has a handle and a bent
point, which can be inserted into the stitches and pulled to break them.
Fig. 1.22 Seam ripper
1.5.4 Orange Stick

This is a long tool whose point can be inserted into the corners of collars
and seams so as to give a neat pointed appearance.
Fig. 1.23 Orange Stick
1.5.5
Cutting Board or Table
A table of 5 feet by 3 feet and height of 2 feet 6 inches is of convenient

height and size for cutting and construction of garments.
Fig. 1.24 Cutting Board or Table
1.5.6 Mirror
A full length mirror is useful for checking
the fit and design of the garment on model.
Fig. 1.25 Mirror
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1.5.7 Dress Form

This is padded form of body and may be made of wood, cardboard, plaster,
reinforced plastic. This is useful for designing dresses by draping and also to
check correct fitting.
Fig. 1.26 Dress Form
1.5.8 Awl
It is a small, sharp-pointed tool used to punch small, round holes for marking
in paper or leather.
Fig. 1.27 Awl
1.5.9 Loop Turner

It is a long wire with a latch hook, used for turning bias strips to make
spaghetti straps and narrow belts.
1.5.10 Paper
It is used for pattern making. This soft paper comes in rolls of plain paper
or paper with blue dots or other markings at set intervals.
1.6 Pressing Equipment

These pressing equipment are used to give the perfect shape to the
fabrics and iron difficult garments parts in construction; also helpful to give the
neat appearance to the finished garments.
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1. Iron
2. Steam iron
3. Ironing board
4. Sleeve Board
5. Press Cloth
1.6.1 Iron
An automatic iron is handy for pressing fabric before cutting, during
construction and after the garment is completed.
Fig. 1.28 Iron Box
1.6.2 Steam Iron

It has an adjustable temperature control, and is equipped with a thumb
press for automatic steam. Distilled water is heated, and the resulting steam can
be released with the thumb press while pressing.
Fig. 1.29 Steam Iron
1.6.3 Ironing Board

It is used for hand pressing, a well-padded, shaped table of convenient
height is very good. One may use an ordinary table covered with sheet and
blanket for this purpose.
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Fig. 1.30 Ironing Board
1.6.4 Sleeve Board

This is a well-padded miniature of a full-sized ironing board; is used to
press sleeves and hard-to-reach small details (Fig. 1.31). It has a tapered end
on one side and a round end on the other side.
Fig. 1.31 Sleeve Board
1.6.5 Press Cloth

Fabric used to cover the ironing table is a press cloth. It should be colourfast and should be washed or boiled to remove all sizing.
Test Your Understanding

Check the following statements for better understanding of the lesson
Into how many broad classes the sewing equipment is categorised.
How many of the above sewing tools and equipments are commonly
seen in tailor shop?
Make a list of the tools that you need for the clothing practical classes
Do you know any brand names for these tools?
Name and visit the nearest reliable shops that sell the above tools.
Make a chart indicating the cost of each item and their brands.
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Prepare a hem gauge with inch notches apart.

Make a wrist pin cushion for yourself.
Visit nearest tailors shop and identify the tools used by him for garment
construction.
Summary
The sewing equipments and tools are broadly classified as Measuring
Equipment, Marking Equipment, Cutting Equipment, General Tools, and Pressing
Tools. Each category of tools has their own purpose in garment construction
and finishing. Proper selection and use of tools require more care as they improve
the appearance of the finished garments and reduce the time taken in their
construction.
Model Type Questions

Short Answer Type Questions
1. Give the broad classification of sewing equipment used.
2. How to select the best measuring tape for garment construction?
3. List out the common cutting tool used to cut the fabric?
4. Differentiate between the ordinary hand needle and bodkin.
5. How small parts of the garments are pressed in garment construction?
6. What is a seam ripper? How it is used?
7. What is the common marking tool used in garment making?
8. What is L- scale?
9. Give the common sizes of hand sewing needles.
10. What is meter scale? How do you use it?
Long Answer Type Questions

1. List the various sewing equipments and tools used in garment
construction.
2. Write about the different types of cutting tools used in the sewing process.
3. Explain the use of hem gauge and hem marker.
4. Write about the five types of general tools used in garment construction.
5. Describe the various marking tools used.
UNIT
Sewing Machines
Structure
2.0 Introduction
2.1 Types of sewing machine
2.2 Parts of sewing machine and their functions
2.3 Threading the machine
2.4 Needle change
2.5 Common machine troubles and repairs
2.6 Care of the machine
Learning Objectives
After studying this unit, you will be able to practice the following
Identifying the types of sewing machines
Selection of correct sewing machine for different end uses
Understanding the mechanism of different parts of sewing machine
Selection of right size sewing needle
Use of correct sewing thread
Threading a machine
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How to peddle the sewing machine

Working on the machine for ordinary lock stitches
Appropriate number of stitches for different fabrics
Cleaning and oiling the machine
Unit Preview
Sewing is a creative and interesting skill. The knowledge of sewing gives a
confident feeling when it is applied to the construction of dresses. This chapter
gives the knowledge about the various parts of sewing machine used in garment
construction and their role in formation of stitch. It also helps to identify the small
troubles that arise while working on the sewing machine and learning to rectify
them.
2.0 Introduction
Sewing by hand as done in olden days is not applicable for all stages of
garment making. Therefore, considerable emphasis is given to machine sewing.
There are several machines in the market today, each with its own desirable
features and advantages. Machines range from most basic having only simple
lock stitch to the electronic machines that use advanced computer technology
having various functions for example piping, binding, ruffling, pleating, darning,
hemming and even making button holes and attaching fasteners.
2.1 Types of Sewing Machines

Sewing machines are now available in various models such as domestic
model, tailor model, industrial model, portable and cabinet models. They may
be operated by hand, treadle or electric motor.
2.1.1 Hand Operated Sewing Machine
This is the simplest form of sewing machine which is operated by hand. A
detachable handle provided to the flywheel is used to operate the machine. This
machine is generally suitable for domestic purpose because it does not help in
speeding up the work.
2.1.2 Treadle Sewing Machine
This machine is exactly like the hand sewing machine but it is operated by
foot, using an additional stand. In this type the balance wheel is operated by a
belt with the help of lower stand, which is driven by feet. This machine operates
faster than that of the hand-operated machine. This machine is suitable when
there is no power supply. While handling this machine both the hands are free to
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handle the fabric, hence speeding up the work. Even some of the heavy duty
machines are operated by this method.
2.1.3 Electric Sewing Machine
This is the fastest sewing machine. One needs practice to handle it. The
three types of electric sewing machines available are straight stitching, straight
stitching with semi-automatic and automatic stitching machines. In an electric
machine the balance wheel comes to motion by a belt, which is attached to an
electric motor.
2.2 Parts of a Sewing Machine and their Functions
Spool pin
Take up lever
Hand wheel
Thread guide
Tension regulator
Tension disc
Thread guide
Stitch Regulator
Needle bar
Back stitch lever
Needle Clamp
Presser foot clamp
Needle
Throat plate
Presser foot
Slide plate
Fig. 2.1 Parts of sewing machine
The basic structure of sewing machine is the same whether it is handoperated sewing, treadle sewing machine or electric sewing machine. The basic
parts of a sewing are listed below and seen in fig. 2.1
2.2.1 Bed : Bed of machine is the base of the machine on which all the
attachments are fixed.
2.2.2 Arm: The horizontal upper part of the head which has the mechanism
for handling upper thread and driving the needle.
2.2.3 Balance wheel : It controls the operation of the machine. It is located
on the right side of the machine. It is driven by hand or belt in the industrial
machine. It controls the movement of the needle bar and drives the machine.
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2.2.4 Spool pin: It is fitted on the top of the arm to hold the reel.
2.2.5 Thread guide : It is a small hole made of spring wire through
which thread runs directly to needle.
2.2.6 Tension disc : The two concave discs put together with the convex
sides facing each other, compose the tension disc. The thread passes between
the two. The tension of the thread is adjusted by a spring and nut which increases
or decreases pressure.
2.2.7 Take up lever: It is lever fitted to the body of the arm with a small
hole through which the thread passes. Its up and down motion feeds the thread
to the needle and tightens the loop formed by the shuttle and loosening the top
thread to complete the stitch.
2.2.8 Needle bar: This is a steel rod to hold the needle at one end with
the help of a clamp. Its main function is to give motion to the needle.
2.2.9 Bobbin case: This moves into position to catch the top thread and
form the stitch as the needle is lowered into the bobbin chamber.
2.2.10 Presser foot: It is fixed to the presser bar to hold the cloth firmly
in position when lowered.
2.2.11 Presser foot lifter: A lever attached to the presser bar for raising
and lowering the presser foot.
2.2.12 Stitch regulator: This controls the length of the stitch. Some
regulators can stitch in reverse.
2.2.13 Bobbin winder: A simple mechanism used for winding thread on
the bobbin.
2.2.14 Clutch or Thumb screw: This is in the center of the fly wheel and
it engages and disengages the stitching mechanism.
2.2.15 Slide Plate: A rectangular plate, which facilitates the removal of
the bobbin case without lifting the machine.
2.2.16 Needle plate or Throat plate: A semi-circular disc with a hole to
allow the needle to pass through it.
2.2.17 Feed dog: This consists of a set of teeth fitted below the needle
plate. It helps to move the cloth forward while sewing.
2.2.18 Face plate: A cover which when removed gives access to the
oiling points on the needle bar, presser bar and take-up lever.
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2.5.19 Spool pin for bobbin winding: Spool of thread is placed on this at
the time of bobbin winding.
2.3 Threading the Machine

Manufacturers supply an instruction manual with each sewing machine. One
should follow the directions given in instruction book. When learning to treadle,
run the machine with the presser foot up and the clutch on fly wheel loosened so
that the needle does not go up and down. Sit at a comfortable height in front of
the machine and place one foot forward and the other foot slightly back on the
treadle. Start the machine by turning the fly wheel towards you. Start pedaling
the machine slowly in such a way as to continue this motion. Gradually increase
the speed. To stop the machine, place your hand on the fly wheel and stop the
motion of the feet.
Before starting actual machining, it should be checked that the needle of
the machine is of correct size, is sharp and correctly set. The bobbin should be
evenly set. Briefly, the various steps of pre-preparation are:
Winding the bobbin
Upper threading
Drawing the bobbin thread
Tension adjustments
Pressure and feed adjustments
Selection of thread and needle
2.3.1 Winding the bobbin
Bobbins wind differently on various machines, but generally the thread is
first placed on a spool pin located below the flywheel and then drawn through
the thread guide near the spool pin. Now with your hand wind the end of the
thread on the bobbin in clock wise direction and place it on the winder. Turn the
bobbin on the winder until the pin like projection on the winder fits into the slot
on the bobbin, thus holding bobbin in place. Then press the winder lever down
until the rubber ring touches the hub of the fly wheel and is held there. Loosen
the thumb screw and run the machine, holding the thread end loosely. Make
sure that the thread winds on the bobbin evenly and that you do not fill the
bobbin too full.
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2.3.2 Upper threading

Raise the take up lever to its highest point by turning the balance wheel
towards you for upper thread. Place the spool of the thread on spool pin. Lead
the thread into thread guide, then pass through tension discs and into small wire
spring and finally through the eye of the needle from left to right. Draw about 2
inches of thread through the needle. For the lower thread hold the bobbin between
thumb and fore finger of the left hand with the thread leading on top, into the slot
or shuttle race.
2.3.3 Drawing the bobbin thread
Raise the take up lever to its highest point. Holding the end of the top
thread with your left hand, slowly turn the fly wheel around once so that the
needle goes down and then comes up to its highest position. Pull the end of the
needle thread. Then a bobbin thread will appear through the needle hole. Pull
the loop to bring the end of the bobbin thread out.
2.3.4 Tension adjustments
Tension controls increases or decreases the pressure on the threads as
they are fed through the machine. When pressure is correct in both thread, the
tension is balanced, the threads interlock in the middle of the material to make a
perfect or balanced stitch. The seam is flat and elastic without being loose and
there is no seam grin when the seam is stressed. If there is too much pressure
on the tension discs, not enough thread is fed into the stitching and the tension is
tight. The material puckers, the seam is strained and the stitches break. If there
is too little pressure, too much thread is fed, the tension is too loosed and the
seam is loose and weak. The link position is a good indicator of which thread
tension is incorrect. When the tension on the top or needle, thread is too tight or
the tension on the bottom or bobbin thread is too loose, the top thread lies along
the surface of the material and the thread forms loops on the top. When the
tension of the top or needle, thread is too loose or the bottom or bobbin thread
is too tight, the bottom thread lies along the underside of the material and the top
thread forms loops on the underside.
To adjust the top thread tension, regulator situated on the front of the machine
adjusts the tension discs. To decrease tension, turn dial to lower number if
present. To increase tension, turn dial to high number. The bobbin thread
tension is controlled by a screw on the bobbin. Clockwise turning increases the
tension whereas anti-clockwise turning decreases tension.
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2.3.5 Pressure and feed adjustments

Pressure means the downward force exerted on the fabric by the presser
foot, to hold the layers so that they move together evenly during stitching. The
feed exerts upward force that moves the fabric to the back of the machine. The
two forces pressure and feed, work together to produce properly stitched seam.
Pressure has several functions. It holds the fabric layers in such a way that they
move evenly with one another. It holds the material taut and it helps to assure
that the stitches are properly set in the material and that an even stitch tension,
and stitch length are maintained. Pressure also prevents the fabric from being
pulled down into the bobbin area and can cause skipped stitches.
The primary function of feed is to move the fabric into position for each
stitch. Feed also helps in holding the fabric layers taut during stitch formation.
Feed is controlled by the stitch length regulator. The smaller the stitch length
setting, the shorter the distance the feed moves the fabric for each successive
stitch.
The amount of pressure needed depends on the weight and thickness of
the material. Lighter and thinner the fabric weight, the lighter the pressure needed
and vice-versa.
2.3.6 Selection of Thread and Needle
Fabric
Fibre
Thread
Fine woven fabrics: lawn, voile, Synthetics, Synthetic 60

organdie, silk chiffon, organza, cotton & Mercerized 50
crepe de chine, georgette, fine blends
lace
Stitch
Needle length
9-11
10-15
Light weight woven fabrics: Synthetics, Synthetic 60

11-14
poplin, gingham, silk, crepe cotton & Mercerized 50
cotton, corduroy, and velveteen blends
Mercerized 50
12-15
Medium weight woven fabrics: Synthetics, Synthetic 60

Silk, brocade, taffeta, linens, cotton & Mercerized 50 11-14
some denims, tweed, gabardine, blends
Mercerized 50
water proof fabrics
16-18
Heavy weight woven fabrics: Synthetics, Synthetic 60
suiting, thick corduroy, denim, cotton & Mercerized 50 14
canvas, double faced wool,
blends
Mercerized 50
heavy furnishing fabrics
12-15
10-12
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2.3.6.1 Types of threads

The natural fibre threads available in the market are cotton and silk. Cotton
thread comes in two varieties mercerised and un-mercerised. Mercerised cotton
is stronger and has lustre. Silk thread is an all-purpose thread and combines
strength with elasticity, but is not easily available in India in small spools.
The synthetic threads are usually made from polyester and terylene. Cottons
or linens should not be stitched with synthetic thread, as the thread will not be
able to withstand the heat while being ironed. Cotton sewing thread comes in a
great range of sizes, from number 8 (very heavy for work on canvas, etc.) to
number 100 (very fine). Wool and silk should preferably be stitched either with
mercerized cotton or silk threads only. Blended fabrics may be stitched with
synthetic thread suitable to the dominant fibre in its content. Threads whether
natural or synthetic are produced in various thickness: higher the number, finer is
the thread and smaller the number, coarser is the thread. It is important to
remember that the same thread should be used for the bobbin and top spool.
The thread used for stitching a garment must of course blend in with the
fabric and be inconspicuous. If the thread is just a shade darker than the fabric,
it will blend in well; a good test is to lay a single strand of the thread over the
fabric. If a fabric is plaid or printed, the colour of the thread should match the
dominant colour of the plaid or print. If a print, stripe, or check is composed of
equal amounts of two colours, the thread should match the darker colour.
2.3.6.2 Selection of Needles
Machine needles are selected according to the weight and other
characteristics of the fabric, as well as the thread type being used for construction.
Generally, a needle should be fine enough to penetrate the fabric without damaging
it and yet have an eye, which is big enough so that the thread does not fray or
break. Needles come in various sizes, from very fine (size 9) for light weight
fabrics to thick (size 18) for very heavy weight and dense fabrics.
Needles also come in three different tips or points:
Regular sharp needle ideal for almost all woven fabrics
Ball point needle - the slightly rounded tip is recommended for all knit
fabrics and elastic fabrics. Available in sizes 9-16
Wedge point needle this needle has been specially designed for
leather and vinyl. Available in sizes 11-18.
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2.4 Needle Change

As soon as your needle becomes blunt you must change it. Machine needles
have a flat side and a round side. On the flat side there is a short groove at the
eye and on the round side three is a long groove. When fixing a new needle in
the machine, remember that the long groove must always face the side from
which the machine is to be threaded, i.e the side facing the last thread guide.
Rise the take- up lever to its highest point and loosen the needle lamp screw to
remove the old needle. Keeping the take-up lever in the same position, insert
the new needle upward into the needle clamp as far as it will go in, then tighten
the needle clamp screw.
2.5 Common Machine Troubles and Repairs

The sewing machine like any other machine, gives troubles of stitching like
thread breaking, uneven stitching, puckering, bending and breaking of needle,
looping of threads, skipping of stitches, etc. Little problems with the sewing
machine can be very irritating and time consuming. They can happen to even the
most experienced seamstress.
A person operating the machine should be able to rectify these and solve
the problems
2.5.1 Needle
To avoid breaking needle
Use proper size of needles for thread and fabric to be sewn.
See that the presser foot or attachment is securely fastened to the bar
and that the needle goes through the center of the hole.
Avoid pulling fabric when sewing. The needle may become bent and
strike the back of the needle hole.
Use a needle of correct length. If it is too long it will come in
contact with the bobbin case and break. If it is too short, stitches cannot
interlock.
Be sure needle is tightly fastened in the needle bar. Also be sure presser
foot is tightly fastened.
Sew over pins carefully. Be sure they are perpendicular to the seam and
keep the heads of pins away from the stitching line.
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2.5.2 Stitches / Seams

Cause of looped stitches
Looped stitches are usually caused by improper tension. If the loop is
on the upper side, it may be corrected by loosening the top tension or
by tightening the lower tension. If the loop is on the underside, it is
usually best corrected by adjusting the upper tension.
Be sure that the upper and lower threading is correct and that the needle
is of good quality and the correct size for the thread.
Looping of stitches is sometimes caused by placing the bobbin in the
bobbin case the wrong way. Check your machine manual for directions.
There may be lint, dirt, or thread between tension discs.
Cause of skipping stitches
Needle not correctly inserted in the needle bar
Needle too small for the thread used
Needle too short for the machine
Blunt or bent needle
If zipper foot is used, the edge of the foot is too far away from the
needle.
Needle threaded incorrectly
Needle hole in throat plate too large
Pressure too light
Upper tension too tight
Upper thread and bobbin thread of different size and /or type
Cause of stitch length variation

Stitch regulator incorrectly adjusted
Feed dog clogged with lint
Pressure incorrect for fabric
Tension incorrect for fabric
Throat plate adjusted incorrectly
27
Presser foot loose or not suited for fabric being sewn

Causes of puckered seams
Tension is too tight
Stitch too long for fabric being sewn, especially on fine fabric
Wrong presser foot used
Puckered threads across seams are due to a blunt needle or too large a
needle.
Stitch too short for synthetic and easy care fabrics
With automatic machines, the use of the plate with wide needle hole
may cause straight seams to pucker. Upper thread and bobbin threads
are of a different size and/or type. Pressure too heavy for fabric
Fabric pushed or pulled while stitching
2.5.3 Thread
Causes of upper thread breaking
Needle is in backwards.
Machine improperly threaded
Tension too tight
Needle bent or having blunt point
Thread too coarse for needle size
Burr on needle hole of presser foot (Caused by breaking needle when

pulling fabric from machine)
Needle too long for machine, or not inserted all the way in the needle
bar
Tension discs worn so that thread works in groove
Needle too fine for size of thread and fabric to be sewn
Threads not properly pulled back under presser foot when starting to
sew
Lint or dirt around bobbin case holder
Irregular sewing speed
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Causes of lower thread breaking

Improper threading of bobbin in bobbin case
Tension too tight
Thread wound unevenly on bobbin in bobbin wound too full
Spring on bobbin case worn to sharp groove
Burr on underside of throat plate
Knot in bobbin thread
Lint, dirt, or thread under tension spring of bobbin case
2.5.4 Machine
Cause of machine not feeding properly
Pressure incorrect for the fabric being sewn
The feed dog worn smooth. This can be determined by running the
finger over the teeth. If they are not sharp, the feed dog should be
replaced
Feed dog clogged with lint
The stitch regulator may have been turned back so far that the feed is
entirely out of action.
Needle may be bent.
Spool of thread may jerk and catch if machine is operated too rapidly
or at uneven speed.
Stitch regulator incorrectly adjusted
Throat plate incorrectly positioned
Cause of machine working heavily
If the machine works hard after standing, it may be gummed with oil and
in need of general cleaning.
The belt may be too tight and hence puts excessive pressure on the
bearing.
When the belt is too loose, it slips on the balance wheel.
Thread jammed in bobbin case
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2.5.5 Fabric
Layers feed unevenly
Presser foot pressure incorrect
May need to stitch slowly
The fabric may be very light weight, use tissue paper while stitching
Problem in straight line stitching
Presser foot may be loose or bent
Pressure of the presser foot may be incorrect
Needle may be bent
There may be a defect in the machine feed
You may be pushing or pulling the fabric
Damage of Fabric
Bent needle, Needle too large, Replace with a new needle of the correct
size
Needle hole in throat plate too large
Damaged feed dog so fit new feed dog
Puckering on both layers of fabric
Too large a needle, so fit a fine needle
Thread too thick, replace with fine thread
Puckering on under layer only
Operator slow
Action of the feed dog
Careful handling during sewing in order to counteract the action of the
feed dog
Feed marks on the underside
Presser foot pressure may be too heavy. You may need to put tissue
paper between the fabric and the feed
The feed may be damaged or set too high
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Fabric is damaged or holes around the stitches

Needle may be blunt or too coarse or wrong type for the fabric
Check for the nick in the throat plate, foot or feed
2.6 Care of the Machine

A sewing machine needs care for its smooth running. It should be cleaned
and oiled regularly to ensure satisfactory sewing and long life. When not in use,
cover machine to prevent dust accumulation on it.
2.6.1 Cleaning
Use a small dry brush or old toothbrush and soft cloth to remove dust and
lint. You should always remove lint deposits, dust and thread bits before oiling
any part of the machine. Use a pointed instrument like a needle to pick out the
bits of thread and lint that cannot be brushed out.
2.6.2 Oiling
It is necessary to oil and lubricate the machine periodically. If the machine
is used everyday, oil it once a week. After oiling, wipe off the surplus oil and
place a piece of folded fabric under the presser foot to absorb any excess oil.
To oil thoroughly, remove the upper thread, needle plate, slide plate, faceplate,
bobbin case, needle and presser foot. Oil the holes on the underside first, after
cleaning and then proceed to the upper side. Use only few drops of oil in each
hole. Never use coconut oil. Machine oil of different brands may be used for
different models of sewing machine, but should be used as recommended in the
instruction book.
If the machine becomes gummed with oil, put a drop of kerosene or petrol
in each oil hole and joints and run it rapidly for several minutes. Wipe off and re
oil it with machine oil. The motor of electric sewing machine should be greased
periodically.
Summary
The knowledge of sewing gives a confident feeling when it is applied to the
construction of garments. The various parts of a sewing machine and their functions
help on to understand the working of a sewing machine. A brief up on the common
machine problems help us to understand and rectify the problems. Above all the
care sewing machine is rather important for a long service of the machine.
31
I - Test your Understanding

Check the following points on sewing machine
Identify the parts of the domestic sewing machine in the lab
Collect picture of different sewing machines used in our country
Do a market survey for various sewing machines available locally
List the manufacturer names of the domestic sewing machines
Visit a tailoring unit to understand the uses of various sewing machines
II - Test your Understanding

Purchase the proper needle and thread suitable for the machine
Try to peddle the sewing machine by pressing the treadle
Operate the fly wheel with right hand and coordinate the peddle
movements
Fix the needle to the machine
Stitch on lines drawn on a paper
Fill the bobbin
Thread the machine
Stitch on the fabric
Adjust the stitch length and tension
III. Test Your Understanding

On which side of the fabric do loops appear when the upper tension is
too tight?
To which side do you turn the tension regulator to tighten the upper
tension ?
If tension needs adjustments what do you adjust first upper tension
or under tension ?
To which side do you set the long groove of the machine needle while
fixing?
How many drops of oil are needed in each point?
32
Look for gathers or frills in your or classmate dress and check the length
of the stitches used in it

1. List the types of sewing machines.
2. What is the function of tension disc?
3. Write about the presser foot?
4. How does the take up lever work?
5. What are the common sizes of the needles used for domestic sewing
machine?
6. What are the steps of preparation before operating a sewing machine?
7. List the stitch lengths used for different weighted fabrics.
8. List the common machine problems that occur.
9. How machine oiling is done?
10. How are the machine needles changed?

1. Give a brief account of the parts of a sewing machine and their functions.
2. Explain the types of sewing machines.
3. Explain the steps involved in threading the machine.
4. Write a note on cleaning and oiling of the machine.s
5. What are the common machine troubles and their causes?
UNIT
Hand Sewing Techniques

Structure
3.0 Introduction
3.1 Temporary Stitches
3.2 Permanent Stitches
Learning Objectives
After studying this unit, you will be able to understand and practice the
following
To know the various temporary stitches even or uneven
Understanding the types of permanent hand stitches suitable for stitching
different fabrics
To know how the raw edges of the fabrics are finished by means of
hemming
Unit Preview
This unit aims at understanding the basic idea of garment construction i.e
attaching two pieces of fabrics or giving shape to a piece of the fabric by means
of stitches.
34
3.0 Introduction
Understanding garment making and regular knowledge of basic sewing
techniques such as simple stitches, seams, darts, gathers and pleats etc. would
enable appropriate application in garment construction. Before learning to stitch
seam on the machine one must learn the basic hand stitches which are used in
garment making.
Basic stitches are divided into constructive and decorative stitches.
Constructive stitches are further divided into temporary and permanent.
3.1 Temporary Stitches

Garment pieces are held together by use of temporary stitches, before
actual permanent stitches are made. These temporary stiches are termed as
tacking or basting stitches. They help in holding two or more layers of material
together before the permanent stitches are made. Usually these stitches are
worked in horizontal and from right to left. This is the only stitch which is started
with a knot. For tacking it is better to use a contrast colour thread. The length
of stitches will vary depending on the weight of the fabric and how securely the
pieces have to be held together. There are several types of tacking or basting
stitches as given below,
3.1.1 Even basting
This is used for tacking seams and other details. It is a short temporary
stitch used on smooth fabric and in areas that require close control such as
curved seams. The stitches are of equal length about inch on both sides of the
material. (Fig. 3.1).
Fig. 3.1 Even basting
3.1.2 Uneven basting

The stitch on the upper side of the fabric is at least twice than that on the
under side. The size of the stitch is usually inch. Use this type of basting as
guideline where there is little or no strain (Fig. 3.2.)
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Fig. 3.2 Uneven basting
3.1.3 Diagonal basting

This stitch is used when several layers of fabrics are to be held securely.
Work stitches through the material at right angles to the fabric edges so that a
diagonal or slanting stitch is made on the upper side is made on the upper side
and a small vertical stitch on the underside. The stitches are made about inch
apart (Fig. 3.3)
Fig. 3.3 Diagonal basting
3.1.4 Slip basting

This is the most often used while matching seams in checked and striped
fabrics. This is also used to bast seam lines that have been fitted from the right
side of the garment. Fold one seams edge under and pin it over the other seam
edge along the stitching line. Now bring the needle up very close to the folded
edge through the three layers of fabric. As close to that point as possible go
down through the single layer, and come up again to inch away through the
three layers as before. Continue till the end. Stitches on wrong side will be
slightly diagonal. Only very small stitches will appear on the right side (Fig. 3.4).
36
Fig. 3.4 Slip basting
3.1.5 Pin basting

Pin basting is an easy and quick method of basting or tacking with the help
of pins. Hold the edges of the fabric together and secure them in place with
pins. Place the pins perpendicular to the seam line keeping pin heads towards
the seam edge and pin them 2.5 -10 centimetres apart (Fig. 3.5). Keep pin
heads away from the presser foot and machine stitch along the basting line.
Fig. 3.5 Pin basting
3.2 Permanent Stitches

The stitches that are left in the garment and form a part of the stitched
garment are permanent stitches. Knots are not generally used for starting the
permanent stitches. Two or three stitches at the beginning of a row will be
helpful in securing the stitches.
3.2.1 Running stitch
This is the simplest form of hand stitch which is used for permanent sewing.
Hand seams such as tucks, gathering, shirring, quilting and mending can be done
with these stitches. It is similar to even basting, but the stitches are much smaller.
The stitches should be straight, fine and evenly spaced and about 1/16 to 1/8
inch in length. Pass the needle through the fabric several times before pulling it
through (Fig. 3.6).
37
Fig. 3.6 Running stitch
3.2.2 Hemming
This is used to secure down a folded edge of material like hems.
Hemming appears as small slanting stitches on the wrong side and right side.
The stitches should be fine and spaced close enough to hold the hem securely in
place, but far enough apart to be inconspicuous from the right side of the garment.
Before starting the hem, fasten the thread with several tiny stitches on top of
each other. Finish off the hemming also with several stitches to fasten it securely.
There are two types of hems slip hemming and knot hemming.
Fig. 3.7 Hemming
3.2.2.1 Slip stitching / Hemming

This is used for hems, facings or folds where invisibility is more important
than strength. Fasten the thread beneath the hem, bringing the needle out through
the edge of the fold. Take a tiny stitch in the garment directly beneath the point
where the thread leaves the fold. Now insert the needle in the hem, slip it along
inside the fold and bring it out again about inch away. Repeat the stitch
(Fig. 3.8).
38
Fig. 3.8 Slip hemming
Fig. 3.9 Knot hemming
3.2.2.2 Knot hemming

This is worked from right to left. A small vertical hem stitch is made such
that the thread passes around the tip of the needle that on pulling the needle out
forms a knot around the stitch made. Thus each stitch is fixed securely by means
of a knot and therefore is very strong (Fig. 3.9).
3.2.3 Backstitch
The backstitch is strong and is sometimes substituted for machine stitching.
Stitches should be about 1/16 to 1/8 inch long on the topside. To make the
backstitch, push needle up through the material at a point on the stitching line
about 1/8 inch from its right end. Take a stitch inserting the needle 1/8 inch back
of the thread at the beginning of the stitching line and bringing it out an equal
distance in front of the thread. Repeat this way, keeping stitches uniform in size
and fairly firm (Fig. 3.10).
Fig. 3.10 Back stitching
3.2.4 Run and back or combination stitch

In this a backstitch and three or four running stitches are combined and
can be used for working plain seams done by hand. This stitch is faster than the
backstitch and stronger than the running stitch (Fig. 3.11)
39
Fig. 3.11 Combination stitch
3.2.5 Over sewing

This stitch is used to secure two finished or folded edges together, or for
applying lace or patch or insertion. Fold and press back the two seam allowances
to wrong side and place the fabric right sides facing with the seam lines matching.
Insert the needle through the back fold and then through the front fold, picking
up only one or two threads each time. Bring the needle out diagonally to the left.
This produces a straight stitch. The stitches should be kept close together (Fig.
3.12)
Fig. 3.12 Over handing
3.2.6 Whipping
This stitch is similar to overhand stitch and serves the same purpose.
Sometimes it is used to finish edges of handkerchiefs.
Fig. 3.13 Whipping
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The only difference between over handing and whipping is that the later
produces slanting stitches, taking stitches over the edge with the needle in a
straight position (Fig. 3.13).
Summary
Hand sewing techniques will help in garment construction with or without
use of sewing machine. Both temporary and permanent stitches are useful.
Especially temporary stitches are more useful to the beginners in garment
construction as they work as guiding lines to permanent hand or machine stitches.
I. Test your Understanding

Have you ever done the tacking stitches ?
Do you start tacking with a knot ?
Why coloured thread is used for tacking ?
Do you think that pin basting is the fastest method?
Is tacking useful as permanent stitch?
II. Test your Understanding

Have your ever seen a permanent hand stitch?
Do you know the procedure of any permanent hand stitch?
Number and identify the permanent hand stitches in your dress.
What is the common permanent hand stitch used around necklines in
your dress?

1. Name five types of tacking.
2. How many ways hand stitches are broadly classified?
3. How do you start tacking?
4. Why a coloured thread used in basting stitches?
5. What is the fastest method of tacking?
6. List the permanent hand stitches.
7. How hem stitches appear on the wrong side of the garment?
8. What is whipping?
9. Name the strongest of all hand stitches.

10. Combination stitch is more technically called as what and why?

1. Write a short note on temporary hand stitches.
2. What are different permanent stitches? Explain any three of them.
3. What are the types of hemming? Explain them.
4. Why temporary stitches are preferred than permanent stitches while
learning garment construction?
5. Differentiate between overcasting and oversewing stitches.
41
42
UNIT
Seams and Seam Finishes

Structure
4.0 Introduction
4.1 Classification of Seams
4.2 Selection of Seams
4.3 Types of Seam
4.4 Seam Finishes
Learning Objectives
following.
Importance of seams and seam finishes
Factors to be considered in the choice of seams for different fabrics and
garments
Creating design and line in the garments by application of various seams
Improving the life of a garment by use of right seam and seam finishes
43
Unit Preview
This unit gives the idea of attaching pieces of fabrics by using seams. The
primary purpose is to know the different seam methods and using them for
stitching different fabrics.
4.0 Introduction
A seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials together by
a row of stitches. They give definite shape and appearance to the garment. The
permanent stitches are used in making seams. Machine stitches enable making
seams faster, stronger and neat. The seams should be as flat as possible and
unseen.
4.1 Classification of Seams

Seams are broadly classified into two major categories depending upon
the flatness created by the seam and other by its appearance on the outer side of
finished garment.
4.1.1 Classification by flatness of seam
Seams can be classified into Flat seams and Ridge seams depending upon
the flatness created on fabric. Plain seam and Flat Fell seam and Top seam are
examples of flat seams. Ridge seams include the French seam.
44
4.1.2 Classification by appearance of seam

Seams may also be divided into conspicuous and inconspicuous seams.
Inconspicuous seams when finished will not have stitches seen on the right side
of the garment, example are plain, corded and french. The purpose of most of
these seams is purely functional and can be called as constructional seams.
Conspicuous seams are those that have stitches seen on the right side of the
garment like flat fell seam, lapped seam etc. These are also used for decorative
purposes. These are made visible to the outside in order to give design and line
effect to the garment.
4.2 Selection of Seams

The type of seam to be used on a garment will depend on various factors.
They are:
4.2.1 Texture and durability of the fabric: When working with a heavy
fabric, one should avoid bulky seams like french seam.
4.2.2 Design and use of the garment: When making a boys sports
shirt, a strong seam like flat fell should be used.
4.2.3 Shape of the seam: Seams by be straight or curved. Straight seams
may be in vertical, horizontal or slanting direction on the dress. When joining
curved edges, plain seam will give a better finish than french seam.
45
4.2.4 Seam allowance: It is the extra amount of material provided over

and above the exact drafting to enable working of seams. The amount of seam
allowance ranges from 1-1.5 centimetres depending again on the texture of the
fabric. The materials like drill require more seam allowance when compared to
fine fabrics.
4.2.5 Position and shape of seam in the garment: Stitching is always
done on the fitting lines exactly. Therefore, stitching line of a seam forms the
fitting line of the garment, which determines the shape and fit of a garment.
Therefore, garments with more stretch should give durable seam.
4.2.6 Finishing of seam: Curved seams should be clipped along the
seam allowances after stitching to give a flat smooth finish.
4.2.7 Tension and length of stitches: The tension and length of the
stitches should be suitably adjusted to the thickness of the garment.
4.2.8 Current fashion: The trend that is present at that time of the season
has to be considered while selecting the seams.
4.3 Types of Seams

4.3.1. Plain Seam
This is the most widely used seam which is flat, pliable, less bulky and
inconspicuous. It can be used on all types of fabrics except on very transparent
kinds. It is mostly suitable for firm fabrics that do not ravel and will not be
subjected to hard and frequent laundering. This is used for side seams, under
arm seams and armhole seams (Fig. 4.1). Place the right sides together and cut
edge even. Tack and stitch along the seam line. Press seam open.
Fig. 4.1 Plain seam
4.3.1.1 Uses of Plain Seam

Most commonly used seam because of its simplicity and quickness in
making.
46
It costs less in the production due to its simplicity

It can be used on firm fabrics as it is a moderately strong seam
4.3.2 Flat fell seam
This type of seam is mostly used on mens sports shirts, work clothes and
childrens clothes and pyjamas. Place the pieces to be joined wrong sides
facing and stitch on the seam line. Press both seam allowance together in the
same direction and trim the under seam to 1/8th inch and the upper one to 3/4th
inch. Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so as to make a
smooth fold 1/4th inch wide. Machine stitch close to the folded edge on the right
side of the garment.The right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching
and wrong side will show only one row of stitching (Fig. 4.2.)
Fig. 4.2 Flat Fell seam
4.3.2.1 Uses of flat fell seam

It is most durable seam
It is acceptable on sheer fabrics also as no raw edges are seen
No further seam finishes are required
4.3.3 Lapped seam
This seam is commonly used for joining a gathered section to a straight
edge as in a yoke (Fig. 4.3.) Take the part of the seam which is to be laid on top
and turn its seam allowance to the wrong side. Place this piece on the top of the
second piece, right sides facing and matching the fold to the seam line. Tack in
position and machine close to the folded edge.
Fig. 4.3 Lapped seam
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4.3.3.1 Uses of lapped seam

It is the only seam possible where other seams are not possible in areas
like attaching yoke of a blouse or frock.
It can give a decorative effect especially when a contrast coloured
thread is used as it is conspicuous seam.
4.3.4 Bound seam
This is formed by folding a separate binding strip over one or more plies of
material and seaming the strip with one or more rows of stitches. They are
frequently used as an edge finish at necklines, hems and sleeve plackets (Fig.
4.4.)
Fig. 4.4 Bound Seam
4.3.4.1 Uses of bound seam

It adds decorative effect to the garment by adding an other piece to the
garment
It is decorative and functional seam
4.3.5 Counter seam
This also a durable flat seam used for very thick materials, mens wear
and reversible garments. Turn down a little on wrong side of one piece of fabric
and on right side of the other piece and iron them firmly. Keep wrong side of the
first piece of fabric on the right side of the second piece along the edges,
maintaining the seam allowances, and tack it in position. Machine stitch along
the folded edges (Fig. 4.5.). This also called as three layered counter seam.
Fig. 4.5 Counter Seam
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4.3.5.1 Uses of counter seam

It is a strong seam used on delicate fabrics
No extra seam finishes are required
4.4 Seam Finishes

Seam finishes are made to prevent fraying of the raw edges and thus make
the seams more durable. They also provide a neat appearance to the inside of
the garment. Though not essential to completion of the garment, it can add
measurably to its life. Whatever may be the seam selected it should be completed
quickly and should not add bulk to the garment. Three considerations determine
the seam finish decision
- the type and weight of fabric
- the amount and kind of wear and care the garment will receive
- whether or not seams will be seen
There are several types of seam finishes in use.
4.4.1 Pinked finish
This is a quick method done with pinking shears, which are not bulky, but
not a suitable finish for fabrics that ravel badly. After stitching plain seam trim off
about 1/8 inch of the seam allowance using the pinking shears, and then press
the seam open.(Fig. 4.6)
Fig. 4.6 Pinked seam finish
4.4.2 Double stitch finish

After making a plain seam, work an extra line of stitching about inch
from the raw edge (Fig. 4.7) This is done for a plain unfinished seam or pinked
seam and is not suitable of bulky fabrics.
49
Fig. 4.7 Double stitch finish
4.4.3 Edge stitched finish

The seam is stitched and pressed open (Fig. 4.8). Then turn under inch
on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold without catching the garment.
This is a bulky finish and is not suitable for deeply curved seams. This is mostly
used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam allowance is wide.
Fig. 4.8 Edge stitched finish
Summary
Seam and seam finishes play an important role in garment construction. As
selection of these details will depend on various factors like kind of garment,
texture of the fabric, durability of the garment, end use of the garment, shape of
the seam and the fashion trend of that period. Whatever may be the factors a
seam and seam finishe should provide strength and neat appearance to the
garment.
I. Test Your Understanding

Identify the types of seams in your dress
What is the seam used for denim pants?
Make a survey of tailor units to check the seams commonly used by the
tailors
50
What is the easiest and quickest seam?

What is the common seam used for childrens pyjamas?
II. Test Your Understanding

Do seam finishes improve the quality of the garment
Seam finished garments are better opted than garments without seam
finishes. Yes or no?
Turn any garment inside out check for the seam finish given.
Is machine over-lock a seam finish?
What is the fastest and cheapest seam finish?
Which seam finish will not require use of hand or machine stitches?

1. What is a seam?
2. How seams are broadly classified?
3. Which seam is widely used in construction of childrens pyjamas?
4. Classify seams by the flatness they give after construction. Give flow
chart.
5. What is the seam used for attaching yoke to the bodice of a frock?
6. What are the uses of bound and counter seams?
7. What is a seam finish?
8. Which seam finish is quickly done and how?
9. Write about the suitability and application of various seams in
garment making process?

1. Classify the seams. Explain about flat fell and lapped seam.
2. Distinguish between plain seam and flat fell seam. Explain in detail about
their uses.
3. What are the factors that effect in selection of seams and seam finishes?
4. Do seam finishes help in improving the quality of the garments? Explain.
UNIT
Creating Fullness in
Garments
Structure
5.0 Introduction
5.1 Tucks
5.2 Pleats
5.3 Gathers
5.4 Shirring or Gauging
5.5 Frills or Ruffles
5.6 Godets
5.7 Smocking
Learning Objectives
following.
Understanding the various methods used for introducing the fullness in
the garment.
The best methods of introducing fullness.
Suitability of various fullness methods for different age groups, fashion
trends etc.
52
Unit Preview
In garment construction not only sections are joined but also sections are
shaped to fit the curves of the body to give fit and comfort. There are various
ways in which garments are shaped depending on the amount of curve needed
in the garment and the design of the garment. Shaping is done by one of the
methods of fullness.
5.0 Introduction
Fullness of material is an important feature of the style as well as a necessity
for ease of movement in a well fitted garment. Fashion changes the basic methods
of controlling fullness that frequently recur, though adapted to enhance the current
style. Darts, tucks, pleats, gathers etc., are some of the methods of introducing
fullness. Fullness is introduced into garments for various reasons such as,
To give good shape and proper fit to the garment
To allow freedom of movement and comfort to the wearer, and
To make the garment look attractive.
5.1 Tucks
A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or machine stitch
on the right side of the garment as a means of shaping the garment to the body,
for holding in fullness or adds decorative effect at shoulders, waistlines, yokes,
pockets or cuff sleeves etc. The tucks that are partly stitched help in shaping the
garments. These are also used in childrens garments to hold the allowance for
growth. Tucks add body to thin fabrics and textural interest to plain fabrics.
Tucks can be used in groups or clusters and in graduated width. While
calculating the amount of material that is needed, each tuck requires an allowance
equal to twice its finished width. So for making a group of 4 tucks of 1/8 inch
finished width, allow 4x (1/ 8 x 2) = 1 inch extra material.
To stitch each tuck fold along middle of a tuck so that stitching lines coincide.
Then stitch along the markings. Cut the garment section only after completing
the stitching of the tucks.
5.1.1 Points to be followed in stitching tucks
Decide the placement of tucks
Width of each tuck
Spacing between the tucks
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Regularity of the tucks

Proper stitching lines in construction
5.1.2 Methods of tucking
There are several methods of tucking, which can be selected according to
the requirement in designing and shaping of the garment.
5.1.2.1 Pin tucks
These are very tiny tucks that may be done by hand with tiny running stitches
or by machine. They are commonly used on baby clothes and fine blouses.
They are usually less than 1/8 inch wide (Fig. 5.1).
Fig. 5.1 Pin tucks
5.1.2.2 Piped or corded tucks

These are made by placing cording on the wrong side of the fabric at
center of tuck before stitching the tuck (Fig. 5.2) Stitching should be done close
to cording.
Fig. 5.2 Piped or corded tucks
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5.1.2.3 Shell or scalloped tucks

This is a very decorative tuck made by hand. Mark and crease the fabric
as for a straight tuck of about inch wide. On the line of stitching, mark
uniformly spaced dots about inches apart. Stitch the tuck using small running
stitches. As you come to each dot, take two overcast stitches through the dot
and pull tightly before proceeding further with the running stitches. (Fig. 5.3)
Fig. 5.3 Shell or Scalloped tucks
5.1.2.4 Cross tucks

When rows of tucks are stitched along the fabric in both horizontal and
vertical directions, the decoration is called cross tucking. First stitch the vertical
tucks, and press them to one side. Then stitch the horizontal tucks (Fig. 5.4).
Fig. 5.4 Crossed tucks
5.2 Pleats
Pleats are formed by folding the fabric that provides fullness in some parts
of a garment. They can be placed single or in a series and can be pressed flat or
left un-pressed, according to the style of the garment. Pressed pleats give a
smooth, slimming line to a garment, whereas un-pressed pleats provide a softer
and fuller shape.
55
Pleats are introduced usually at the waist line of skirts and dresses, to provide
fullness evenly all around. The preparation of pleats is similar to that of tucks,
the main difference being that pleats are seldom stitched all the way down.
Sometimes they are stitched part way down the garment for flatness. Each pleat
requires extra material of twice the width of the finished pleat. If pleats are to
touch each other all round the garment, the amount of material needed is three
times the finished width.
5.2.1 Types of pleats
Pleats are classified in the following way
5.2.1.1 Knife pleats
They are usually about 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide and are turned towards the
same direction (Fig. 5.5). The direction may be reversed at center back or
centre front of the garment. Pleats are formed by folding the fabric as per the
width of the pleat required (1/2 to 1 inch). Make all the folds or pleats in the
same direction. Press them. Hand or pin baste along the folded edges. Pleats
can be top stitched in place, or sometimes stitched from top along the folded
line to produce the slender effect. The main function of a knife pleat in a tailored
garment is to provide fullness at the bottom of the garment.
Fig. 5.5 Knife Pleats
5.2.1.2 Box Pleats

Two knife pleats turned away from each other (one
to the left and one to the right) form a box pleat (Fig.
5.6). These are used quite often for uniforms.
Fig. 5.6 Box Pleats
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5.2.1.3 Inverted pleat

It is the opposite of a box. It is made up of two knife pleats turned towards
each other so that the folds meet in the middle on the right side of the garment.
It is usually designed at centre front or centre back and looks like two knife
pleats facing away from each other on the underside (Fig. 5.7).
Fig. 5.7 Inverted box pleat
5.3 Gathers
Gathering is an effective and decorative way of distributing fullness over a
given area. Gathers are graceful folds of fabric that provide fullness, suggesting
a soft look, which can be made using machine or hand stitches. These are formed
by drawing the fabric together on a line of stitching and may be used to control
the fullness at round waist, yoke lines, waist lines, neck lines and upper and
lower edge of sleeves.
5.3.1 Methods of Gathering
Gathering is done in different methods
5.3.1.1 Gathering by Hand
Make two rows of running stitches of inch apart (Fig. 5.8 Draw the ends
of threads until the section measures the desired length, and secure the thread.
Fig. 5.8 Hand gathering
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5.3.1.2 Gathering by machine

Make seam line on the right side of the fabric by adjusting the machine for
long stitch and loosening the upper tension slightly. Make two to three rows of
small stitches on either side of the seam line on the area to be gathered
(Fig. 5.9).
Fig. 5.9 Machine gathering
5.3.1.3 Gathering by using elastic

Gathers can be made by stretching a narrow strip of elastic and stitching on
the part of the garment which is to be gathered (Fig. 5.10)
Fig. 5.10 Gathering using elastic
5.4 Shirring or Gauging

Several rows of gathering (3 or more) used for a decorative finish are
termed shirring (Fig. 5.11).
Fig. 5.11 Shirring
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The rows should be evenly spaced. Shirring appears as a decorative feature

at the shoulder, waistline, at the lower edge of a sleeve and usually at the narrower
parts of garment also allowing a certain degree of stretching. Shirring can be
done as Thread shirrs or Elasticized shirrs.
5.5 Frills or Ruffles

These are used for the purpose of adding decoration to a garment.
Sometimes they are used at the hems of skirts and dresses to add length. To
make frills allow at least one and a half times the length of the piece to which the
frill will be attached. The width of the frill is usually anything from one inch to 3
inches. The longer side should be cut along the lengthwise grain of the material.
The gathered edge of the frill can be concealed in a seam, facing, binding or
wide band (Fig. 5.12).
Fig. 5.12 Frills or Ruffles
5.6 Godets
These are wedge shaped pieces which are usually set into a skirt so that the
wide side of the wedge becomes a part of the hem of the skirt. The godet may
be set into a seam of the skirt, or the skirt may be slashed so that the slashed
edges form the seams joining into the godet (Fig.5.13).
Fig. 5.13 Godet
5.7 Smocking
It is a type of fabric enrichment, consisting of tiny embroidery stitches sewen
over the folds of gathers at regularly spaced intervals on the right side of the
fabric. It is used to hold fullness or to add texture and surface interest to a
bodice, neckline or sleeves of childrens or womens dress. Best suited fabrics
59
for smocking are soft and flat-faced fabrics such as voiles, cambric and crepes.
Use a medium-weight and firmly twisted thread of cotton or silk.
5.7.1 Preparation of fabric
Smocking on plain material requires marking with a series of dots on the
wrong side (Fig. 5.14). These dots should be evenly spaced, around 0.3 cm
apart, and the distance between the rows may be 0.5 -1 cm. For heavy fabrics
the distance can be more. Fabrics with checks, plaids or dots do not require the
transfer of the pattern. Using strong thread, pick up the dots along one row and
make several running stitches along. Complete all the rows. The number of
rows depends on the area to be covered. The width of fabric should be three
times as long as the gathered fabric for smocking . Draw up the fabric on the
threads and fasten the thread ends by winding them together round the pins
placed at one end to hold them securely.
Fig. 5.14 Preparation of material for smocking
5.7.2 Stitches used for smocking

All the stitches are worked from left to right. Good-quality embroidery
threads of suitable colour are used for smocking.
5.7.2.1 Outline stitch
This is like a stem stitch used to make outlines. Work each row over the
tubular fabric folds. Take out needle on the first fold on the extreme left by
making small back stitch over the fold. While making the stitch, always keep the
thread under the needle. Draw up each fold firmly, after each stitch (Fig. 5.15).
Fig. 5.15 Outline stitch
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5.7.2.2 Cable stitch

It is a variation of outline stitch done in two close rows. Start in the same
way as for the outline stitch. While taking stitch, keep the thread above the
needle for the first stitch and below the needle for the second, and repeat
throughout the length of the row (Fig. 5.16).
Fig. 5.16 Cable stitch
5.7.2.3 Wave Stitch

To make wavy effect, make odd number (5, 7, or 9) of outline stitches
diagonally upward and then downward. For the upward row keep the thread
below the needle and for the downward row keep the thread above the needle.
Repeat the process to make rows of diamond shapes or rows of wavy design
(Fig. 5.17)
Fig. 5.17 Wave stitch
5.7.2.4 Chevron
This type forms zigzag stitches over the folds. Take a stitch on the first pleat
at the left of a row of gathering stitches, pass the needle down to the next row of
gatherings and take another stitch in the same first fold. Then, over the same
61
fold, take a stitch on the second fold, inserting the needle to the right. Bring it
down between the first and second pleat. Keeping the thread below the needle,
draw this stitch up so that the two pleats are held closer. Then pass the needle
up to the first row, take a stitch over the second pleat, with the thread above the
needle, take a stitch over the third pleat, bringing the needle out between the
second and third pleat and draw the stitch tight. Make the second row of zigzag
stitches in such a way that its points meet the points of the second row followed
by the fold on the third row to form diamond design (Fig. 5.18).
Fig. 5.18 Chevron stitch
5.7.2.5 Honeycomb Smocking

To start with, bring the needle out in first pleat; take two tiny backstitches
over fold to secure the thread. Pull the needle through the first fold about 0.5 cm
below the first stitch, keeping the thread above the needle. With thread below
the needle, put the needle through the second fold at the same level. Draw the
thread tightly together. Put the needle through the same fold at the same level as
the first stitch. With thread above the needle, put the needle through the third
fold at the same level. Draw tightly together. Repeat till the end of the row
(Fig. 5.19).
Fig. 5.19 Honey Comb Smocking
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Summary
Fullness is introduced into garments for various reasons such as to give
good shape and proper fit to the garment; to allow freedom of movement and
give comfort to the wearer and to make the garment look attractive. Darts,
tucks, pleats, gathers etc. are some of the methods for introducing fullness.

Will smocking will give soft stretch to the garment?
Mention some parts of the garment suitable for smocking.
Zigzag smocking stitches are also called as ______________ .
Draw few childrens frocks designs by introducing smocking.
Is tucking done by hand or machine stitches or both ?
Will tucking helps in shaping the garment to fit the body ?
Draw sketches of few garments using different tucks as a designing
element
Are pleats stitched in full length like tucks?
What are the pleats generally used at the back side of the mens shirt
How much extra material is required for forming each pleat?
Create some designs using gathers, shirring, ruffles and godets.
Can gathers be done by hand ? Try that with a soft paper.
Which type of fullness is used to increase the length of the finished
garment?
Width of the garment can be increased by introducing the wedge shaped
fullness called as?

1. What is a tuck?
2. In how many ways pleats can be done? Name them.
3. Name the methods of introducing fullness.
4. What are the different methods of gathering the fabric?
5. Differentiate between box pleat and inverted pleat.
63
6. How are pin tucks different from cross tucks?

7. What is a godet?
8. What is shirring? How it is different from gathering?
9. What is smocking?
10. Explain the method of forming a knife pleat.

1. Differentiate between gathering and shirring.
2. Explain about the types of tucks
3. Name and explain the stitches used in smocking.
4. What is a pleat? Describe the different methods of making pleats.
5. What are ways of introducing the fullness in garments? Explain about
tucks and pleats.
64
UNIT
Placket Openings
Structure
6.0 Introduction
6.1 Standards of a good placket
6.2 Types of Placket
Learning Objectives
following
Standards used to finish a good placket.
Types of finishing placket openings.
Finishing placket openings for mens and womens garments.
Unit Preview
Plackets are the finished openings made in the garment to put on or take off
garment easily. This chapter helps us to understand methods employed for
finishing placket openings, so as to improve the quality of the finished garment.
65
6.0 Introduction
The finished placket openings in the garment are kept closed with the aid of
fasteners such as zips, buttons and buttonholes, press buttons, hooks and eyes
etc., when the garment is put on. They are used at waist lines, necklines, wrists
and other snug fitting parts of garments. A placket may be made in an opening
left in a seam, or in a slash cut in a garment. The former is stronger and gives a
better finish when completed.
6.1 Standards of a good placket

A good placket should meet the following standards
6.1.1 Neatness and invisibility
A placket should be as inconspicuous and flat as possible, unless used as a
decorative detail. It should not be bulky, puckered or stretched. Fastenings
should hold securely and there should be no gaping edges.
6.1.2 Suitable length and convenience
Placket opening should admit the body parts easily. So plackets for neck
should be 9 inches to 12 inches long. Skirt openings should be long enough
(about 7 inches) to ensure that the garment can pass over the shoulders and hips
without strain. Wrist opening can be about 4 inches long to enable the sleeve to
pass over the hand. The position of the placket should be such that it is easily
accessible and convenient to operate.
6.1.3 Strength
Openings are subjected to strain during wear and should be strengthened
at the closed ends, e.g lower end of placket openings. For plackets in seams to
be durable, the garment seam should be at least 5/8 inch wide. Seams should
not be trimmed or clipped too close.
6.1.4 Correct lapping
All openings for womens garments fasten right over left irrespective of
where they are located. For mens garments, openings should lap left over right
when worn.
6.1.5 Suitability
The type of placket used should be suitable to the kind of garment on
which it is used, its position in the garment, texture of the fabric, age and sex of
the wearer and current fashions.
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6.2 Types of Plackets

All the plackets are made conspicuous or inconspicuous depending on
their placement in the garment or as per the fashion. Mostly, all women garments
use inconspicuous plackets and gents tailored made garments use conspicuous
plackets.
6.2.1 Inconspicuous Plackets

Inconspicuous plackets are not seen when the garment is put on. The
continuous bound plackets, bound and faced plackets and zipper plackets are
examples of inconspicuous plackets.
6.2.1.1 Continuous bound placket
This is also called One-Piece placket and may be made in a seam or slash
(Fig. 6.1). It is suitable for childrens dresses, saree petticoats, sleeve openings
where a cuff or band is used. Do not use this placket on curved seams and on
bulky fabrics.
Fig. 6.1 Continuous bound placket
67
This placket can be made in an opening made by slash or in a seam opening.

To make a placket in a slash, cut a strip of fabric on the lengthwise grain, 1
inch to 1 inch wide and one inch longer than twice the length of the opening.
Tack the piece to garment opening and machine stitch keeping the opening flat
till the center. Stop the machine keeping the needle inside the fabric and push all
the material backward so as to avoid a pleat in the centre of the fold. Continue
stitching till the end.
Press the seam edges towards the placket strip and fold under the free
edge of the strip inch and crease. Then fold the strip over the opening edge
and hem it along the stitching line.
Fold the strip under on the overlap section and tack it at the seam. Tacking
can be removed after the fasteners are fixed.
Placket in a seam is done in almost similar way as placket in a slash. Prior
to making a placket reinforce the seam edges (where the placket ends) with
back stitches, clip the seam allowances leaving only inch allowances. Now
the seam opening is ready to be finished as continuous bound placket.
6.2.1.2. Bound-and-faced placket or two-piece placket:
This is used in the left seam of skirts or petticoats and back seam of dresses.
The underlap side of this placket is finished with a binding and the overlap with
a facing. For this, two separate strips of fabric are used. Wider strip of 2 inches
used for underlap and narrow strip of 1 inches is used for overlay. Both the
strips should be 1 inch longer than the placket opening so as to extend below
the placket opening. The seam allowances of the placket should be same as the
seam allowance on which it is made. To finish underlap, crease the strip back
over the seam, bringing its free edge to the wrong side of garment, turn under 1/
4 inch at the free edge and hem the fold to the stitching line. This forms the
bound side of the placket and should have inch to inch finished width.
6.2 Bound-and-faced placket or two-piece placket
68
Make a inch or wider stitch to the wrong side of overlaps free edge,
turn the strip over to the wrong side of the garment (as for a facing) and slip hem
the fold to the garment. Work a line of stitches at the base of the placket catching
the underlap and overlap together (Fig. 6.2.). This can be done by hand from
the wrong side in such a way that no stitches are visible on the wrong side.
6.2.1.3 Zipper plackets
There are several methods of applying zippers. The choice depends on the
position of the zipper in the garment and the type of garment. Zippers are
usually concealed either with two overlapping fabric edges or with one. The
former shows two lines of stitching and is referred as slot seam zipper placket
(Fig. 6.3). The latter is called lapped seam zipper placket and only one line of
stitching is visible on this.
Fig. 6.3 Slot Seam Zipper Placket
6.2.2 Conspicuous plackets

Tailored plackets are conspicuous plackets commonly seen on mens shirt
sleeve, on neck openings of kurtas, childrens dresses.
6.2.2.1 Tailored or Kurta plackets
Tailored placket is commonly used on kurtas or mens shirt sleeve openings
and on childrens garments. (Fig. 6.4). To finish this placket two separate strips
are cut for under-lap and over-lap. For under-lap cut one strip of 1 inch
wide and exact length of the slit. Keeping one end of the strip exactly in line with
the end of the slit and with the right sides facing, stitch a inch seam joining the
edge of the strip to the correct edge of the sleeve opening. Now fold inch
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under on the free edge of the strip and hem or machine this folded underlap strip
tacked to the wrong side of the garment.
For over-lap take a shaped strip, cut a strip of 2 inch wide and 1 inch
longer than the slit. Shape the bottom side of the strip into a pointed V . Keep
the right side of the strip facing the wrong side of garment and tack the short side
of the strip to the free side of the placket opening on the seam line. Machine
stitch and bring this overlap strip over to the right side of the garment. Turn
under the seam allowances and adjust the position of the strip so that it will
overlap the underlap binding. Tack in position. Top stitch the strip to the garment.
RS
RS
RS
Fig. 6.4 Kurta Placket
Summary
Plackets provide ease while putting the garment on and off . Therefore, the
plackets should be made with proper care, neatness, suitable length, correct
placement, strength, correct lapping and fashion. As plackets are generally closed
with aid of fasteners, selection of proper fasteners is also important. Sometimes,
plackets are made conspicuous for functional and decorative effect.
I. Test your Understanding

Where are the plackets used?
What is the difference between the lapping seen in mens and womens
garments?
What is the use of the placket?
Do wider necklines require placket openings?
Are there any placket openings on Womens T Shirt
Illustrate with sketches the various types of plackets on different
garments.
70

1. What is a placket?
2. Classify the plackets.
3. How do plackets lap in womens garment?
4. What are the main differences between continuous,bound and faced
placket?
5. On what fabrics continuous plackets are used?
6. In how many ways continuous plackets can be made?
7. What is a bound and faced placket?
8. In how many ways zipper plackets can be made?
9. What are the measurements followed for underlap and overlap of the
two piece placket?
10. A tailored placket has other name because of its usage. Explain

1. Write about the good standards of plackets?
2. Write in detail about the finishing of continuous placket?
3. Write the procedure of making a bound and faced placket?
4. Explain the difference between a kurta placket and one piece placket.
5. What is the fastest method of finishing a placket? Explain.
UNIT
Methods of Finishing
Necklines
Structure
7.0 Introduction
7.1 Preparation of uses of true bias strip
7.2 Different methods of finishing necklines
Learning Objectives
following
Preparation of bias strip
Knowing the uses of bias strip
Application of bias facing
Application of bias binding
Application of fitted facing
Unit Preview
This unit explains the various methods of finishing neckline edges
72
7.0 Introduction
Neckline is an outline of bodice around the neck. These necklines can be
finished either by using facing or binding or by attaching a collar. The necklines
can be shaped in different ways and styles to get a decorative effect, particularly
for ladies garments. Round, square, V-neckline, U-neckline etc. are the most
commonly used shapes of neckline. A straight piece of material attached to
finish these curved necklines will look bulky and untidy. The elasticity of bias
permits it to stretch making a smooth finish. The various necklines finishes include
fitted facing, bias facing and bias binding.
7.1 Preparation and uses of true bias strip

Necklines, armholes and other curved parts of the garments require
special treatment. It is better to use a bias strip than the strip cut on true grain to
finish these openings.
7.1.1 Cutting bias strips
Fold the fabric diagonally so that the lengthwise threads of the folded part
fall parallel to the crosswise threads on the rest of the material. Using a gauge or
ruler, measure from the fold to desired width of bias strip and draw parallel
lines. Cut strips along the marked lines and trim off ends along warp threads.
Bias strip will have maximum elasticity if cut on diagonal line at 45o to the lengthwise
and crosswise grains which is called as true bias. It shows more stretch than any
other direction on cloth (Fig. 7.1).
Fig. 7.1 Preparation of True bias strip
7.1.2 Joining bias strips

Place the two strips to be joined right sides facing and the edges of the
right angles to each other. Shift the top strip inch beyond the other so that the
sharp points at the ends of the strips project on either side. Stitch a inch seam
joining the points where the sides of the two strips intersect. Press the seam
open and trim the seam projections showing on right side (Fig. 7.2).
73
Fig. 7.2. Joining bias strips
7.1.3 Uses of bias strip

True bias is used to finish raw edges. It is useful especially in finishing
curved edges such as necklines, sleeveless armholes and scallops. The elasticity
of bias permits it to stretch or contract and thus takes the shape of any curved
edge giving it a flat smooth finish.
Bias strips can be applied as facing and bindings. In striped, checked or
contrasting coloured material it gives a decorative finish when used as a binding
or facing applied on the right side of the garment.
Bias is also used to finish raw edges of plain seams as well as seams
which join collar to neckline, cuffs to sleeves etc.
Fabric or bound buttonholes, piped seams and bias tubing are made
using bias strips. Bias tubing is useful for making small motifs for trimming dresses
and for preparing fabric loops which can be used decoratively in the place of
buttonholes.
7.2 Different methods of finishing necklines

Neckline may be finished with a facing, binding or a collar. The type of
finish chosen will depend on the design of a garment, the fabric and in some
cases even personal preference. Necklines are generally curved and hence
tend to stretch during handling. It is therefore important to note that before
garment construction, a row of stay stitching is done at a distance of 0.5 cm
from the edge of the neckline, so that it will not stretch.
7.2.1 Facings
These are used to provide a neat finish to the raw edges in a garment and to
support the shape of necklines, armholes, collars, etc. When the edge to be
faced is a straight line, the facing may be cut in one piece with the garment
section. Usually facings are applied separately. There are two main types of
applied facings - shaped facing and bias facing.
74
Shaped facing can be of any width, but bias facing should not be more than
inch wide. Facings are usually turned to the inside of the garment and will not
show when the garment is worn. Sometimes facings are turned to the outside of
the garment for decorative effect.
7.2.1.1 Method of applying bias facing:
Stay stitch edge of garment to be faced. Cut a bias strip of true bias the
width of which is equal to be finished width and 2 turnings. Tack bias strip to
edge of garment, right sides facing beginning at a seam. For inward corners to
be faced the bias must be eased and for outward curves it must be stretched.
(Easing means holding bias strip slightly loose at the seam line). Stitch bias to the
edge of the garment in line with the bias on top. Trim the seam to inch, clip at
curves, grade bulky seams and ends coinciding. Turn the strip to wrong side
under stitch the facing to the seam. Making sure that the facing is not visible from
the right side of the garment. Now hem or slip stitch the facing to the garment.
When finished, the bias facing should be about 3/8 inch wide (Fig. 7.3).
Fig. 7.3 Applying bias facing
7.2.1.2 Applying shaped or fitted facing:

Shaped facing is cut to the exact shape of the garment edge to which it is
to be applied. Usually it is cut on the same grain as the section of the garment.
Shaped facing is often used to finish square or V necklines or scalloped edges.
It is easier to apply than bias facing and is less conspicuous (Fig. 7.4). It is
usually cut separately for front and back with allowances extra. After cutting,
join the front and back facings with a plain seam, trim the seam and press it
open. Finish the outer edge of the facing by turning up the edge and stitching it.
Carefully tack the facing to the garment section, right sides facing, and seam
lines, center lines and notches matching. Trim, clip and grade seam edges turn
the facing to the wrong side under stitch it at the seam and hem or slip stitch the
folded edge of the facing to the garment. When fitted facing is applied to right
side of the garment then it is called as decorative facing (Fig. 7.5)
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Fig. 7.4 Applying shaped or fitted facing
Fig. 7.5 Applying decorative facing
7.2.2 Bias binding

Bias binding is used to finish and strengthen raw edges and to add a
decorative trim to a garment. It shows both on the right and wrong sides. It is
used to finish necklines, armholes, sleeve edges, front closings, collars, cuffs
and seams. It can be adapted equally well to straight, curved, gathered and
irregular edges. When finished, bias binding should have uniform width (less
than inch) and should lie flat and smooth without any stitches showing on the
right side of the garment.
7.2.2.1 Types of bias binding
There are two kinds of bias bindings: Single binding and double binding
(or French binding).
7.2.2.1.1 Single bias binding
Cut a bias strip that is twice the finished width plus two seam allowances.
Tack the strip to the garment right sides facing. Stitch the binding to the garment
with a plain seam. Trim the seam as wide as the finished binding. Turn under
1/8 to inch on the outer edge of the bias and fold it over the seam on the
wrong side. Now hem the fold to the line of stitching using hemming stitches
(Fig. 7.6).
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Fig. 7.6 Single bias binding
7.2.2.1.2 Double or french binding

French binding or double bias binding is used on sheer fabrics. Cut bias
strip that is six times the desired finished width. Fold the strip in half, wrong
sides together, and press. Stitch raw edges of binding to the garment on the right
side and hem the folded edge to stitching line on the wrong side.
Finished Width
Whip over seam

Inside
Fig. 7.7 French or double bias binding
I. Test your understanding

What is the maximum stretch angle for bias strip?
Identify the neckline finish in your dress.
Draw few neckline shapes that can be finished with bias binding, bais
facing and fitted facing.
Draw a graph to cut the bias on paper.
Show a true bias cutting on paper.
77
Summary
As neckline is the outline of bodice around the neck, it can be shaped and
finished in different ways for strengthening as well as for decorative purpose.
Any of the methods described can be choosen to finish the necklines as per the
need of the garment and fashion of the period. Bias binding and decorative
facings are seen on the right side of the garment, bias facings are generally finished
on the wrong side of the garment.Care is to be taken while finishing the necklines,
especially curved ones. Always stay stitch around the neckline before finishing
it, as this will avoid shaping out of the neckline.

1. What are different ways of finishing a neckline?
2. What is true bias?
3. On which types of fabric double bias is used.
4. What is the distance from outer edge of the neckline for stay stitching?
5. How are the bias strips attached?
6. What is single bias binding?
7. What are the uses of bias strips other than the finishing necklines?
8. What is decorative facing?
9. Why do you need to finish a neckline?
10. What is facing?

1. Give the method of cutting and joining the bias strips.
2. Explain the difference between fitted and bias facing.
3. What is bias binding? Explain the methods followed.
4. Explain the uses of bias strips in various garment finishing methods.
5. Which neckline finishes are seen on the right side of the garment ?
Explain.
78
UNIT
Types of Fasteners
Structure
8.0 Introduction
8.1 Selection of Fasteners
8.2 Buttons
8.3 Button Holes
8.4 Hooks and Eyes
8.5 Button Loops
8.6 Snaps
8.7 Fancy Buttons
Learning Objectives
After studying this unit. you will be able to understand and practice the
following
Types of fasteners suitable for mens, ladies and childrens garments.
Placement of fasteners depending on various factors like strain of the
garment part.
Stitching of different fasteners.
Selection of right fasteners over the other for a particular garment.
79
Unit Preview
All garments need openings at some point or the other so that they can be
put on and taken off easily. These openings can be closed in a variety of ways
by using fasteners. The common fasteners are buttons, hook and eyes, eyelets
and cord, press buttons, fancy buttons etc.
8.0 Introduction
There are various types of fasteners, some are decorative and conspicuous
while some are meant to be inconspicuous. The type of fasteners selected will
depend on the position, the amount of strain it will receive and whether it is to
remain concealed or form a decorative feature on the garment. It is important to
remember with all types of closures that the two sides of the opening match
perfectly without any puckering, pulling or gaping of the fabric and give a neat
appearance to the garment.
In general, fasteners should be fixed on to double material for strength.
Fasteners should be selected to suit the colour, design and texture of the fabric,
the style and use of the garment and the position of the placket. One should also
consider the age and sex of the wearer. For example buttons and buttonholes
are generally used for mens shirts, trousers etc., just as press buttons and hooks
and eye are commonly used for ladies cholies and childrens dresses.
8.1 Selection of Fasteners

As fasteners are used for both functional and decorative purpose, selection
of these should be taken care.
8.1.1 Strength
Strength of the fasteners is very essential as press buttons are less secure
than buttons and button holes.
8.1.2 Care
Press buttons, hooks eyes, on a garment which are frequently washed and
ironed are easily damaged.
8.1.3 Strain
Hooks and eyes give an invisible closing which is particularly suitable when
there is cross wise strain.
8.1.4 Combination of fasteners
Combination of fasteners will always give best closing, for example use of
zippers and button and button holes in pants.
80
8.1.5 Correct lapping

Fasteners should be fixed in such a way that the right side of the garment
laps over the left side for women and the left laps over the right for men.
8.2 Buttons
Buttons should be selected carefully to suit both the weight and colour of
the fabric. The advantages of using buttons as closures are numerous. They are
both functional and decorative. They should be sewn securely by a strong
matching thread in such a way that it allows the buttonholes to close under the
button without puckering the fabric. The fabric on which the button is attached
should be reinforced to prevent tearing or pulling under strain.
Buttons are placed centrally on the centre front and centre back lines of the
garment except in unusual cases. Sufficient buttons should be spaced equally to
ensure that the opening is neat without gaping between buttons. The width of
spacing varies according to the position of opening, fabric weight and size of
button. Too few or too many can spoil the appearance of the finished garment.
On a shirt or blouse the buttons must be placed to avoid gaping across the bust
or waist. On a waist area of the garment a button must always be used because
this is the stress point of the garment.
8.2.1 Types of buttons
There are three types of buttons, the details are given below.
8.2.1.1 Buttons with holes
These are commonly used buttons which are sewn flat through the holes
from upper side of the fabric. These are available with two or four holes. They
may be made of bone, glass, metal, plastic etc.
Two holes
Four holes
Fig. 8.1 Buttons with holes
8.2.1.1.1 Sewing of buttons with holes

Sew these types of buttons using double thread. Bring the needle up and
down through the holes in the buttons with a pin kept over the button. After
working enough stitches, remove the pin, lift the button and form a shank by
81
winding the thread tightly around the strands about six times. Now fasten the
thread on the wrong side. Buttons with four holes may be sewn in the shape of
a cross, two parallel lines, a square or an arrow head (Fig. 8.2).
Fig. 8.2 Sewing of buttons with Holes
8.2.1.2. Shank buttons

These are attached to the garment from the underside with a small loop on
the lower side of the button. There are two types of shank buttons i.e., link
buttons and covered buttons. Covered buttons may be made of fabric. On
dresses buttons covered with self-fabric may be used. Scraps of fabric are used
to get the fabric buttons covered by a special machine. Covering may be done
by hand also. For decoration, buttons can be: (a) grouped in pairs; (b) placed
to give a double-breasted effect, and (c) be purely decorative and not as a
fastening.
Shank
Fig. 8.3 Shank Buttons, Covered Buttons
8.2.1.2.1 Sewing shank buttons

Bring needle through fabric and shank loop at the bottom of the button and
then back through fabric. Stitch through fabric and shank until button is secured.
Fasten thread on underside (Fig. 8.4).
Fig. 8.4 Shank Button
82
8.2.1.3 Link buttons

These are used as links for cuffs or for the front of a coat or a jacket. There
should be two buttonholes, one on each side of the placket opening. To make
the link, hold two buttons at the desired distance apart and connect the buttons
together with strands of thread. Work buttonhole stitches across the strands
and fasten the thread (Fig. 8.5).
Fig. 8.5 Link buttons
8.3 Button holes

Buttonholes are slits cut in garments to hold buttons in place. They are
made on the overlap section of the garment opening in line with the buttons on
the underlap. The length of the buttonhole should be the diameter of the button
plus about 1/8 inch (or the thickness of the button). They are so placed that
when closed, the button rests on the centre of the button hole. The slits are
made vertically or horizontally on the garment. The raw edges of these slits can
either be hand or machine worked or fabric bound button holes.
8.3.1 Marking of buttonholes
Buttonholes can be marked in vertical or horizontal way depending on the
position of the placket opening, width of the placket or the strain it holds.
8.3.1.1 Marking vertical buttonholes
Vertical buttonholes are often used with a narrow placket where less strain
involved such as a shirt band, or where there are many small buttons involved in
closing the garment. They are placed parallel to the length wise grain of the
garment. They are placed directly on the button placement line and the top of
the buttonhole is 3mm above the mark for center of button.
8.3.1.2 Marking horizontal buttonholes
Horizontal buttonholes are the most secure and therefore used on most
garments where strain is involved. When buttoned, the pull of the closure is
absorbed by the end of the buttonhole with very little distortion. These
buttonholes are placed to extend 3 mm beyond the button placement line.
83
8.3.2 Working of buttonholes

Whatever may be the marking of the slit used to make the buttonhole, they
should be worked to finish its raw edges. The raw edges of these slits can either
be hand worked with buttonhole stitches, machine worked using zig-zag stitches
or fabric bound buttonholes using self or contrast fabric. The method you choose
for a garment will depend on the design of that garment, the fabric and your
ability to sew.
8.3.2.1 Hand-worked buttonholes
These are used in childrens and mens garments and are worked after the
garment is completed. Avoid these on fabrics that stretch and fray. Hand worked
buttonholes are used where details of construction are to be finely finished.
They should be made with matching thread and should have stitches of uniform
length worked close together. Worked buttonholes are made through double
fabric, therefore facings, collars and cuffs must be completed first. Mark the
centre of the buttonhole with a row of tacking. Do not slash. Stitch around the
entire buttonhole using very fine hand-running stitches to indicate the width of
stitching. Fold the buttonhole end to end and make a small cut in the middle with
a sharp pointed scissors. (Fig. 8.6)
Open cut and slash to each end. Leaving thread unknotted; take a back
stitch on the wrong side near the end of the buttonhole. Bring the needle out
through the buttonhole to the right side. With the right side of the garment up,
hold the cut buttonhole over the index finger of your left hand and work the
buttonhole using buttonhole stitches.
For the vertical buttonholes, both the ends are finished in the same shape,
either fanned or bar tacked. But for the horizontal buttonholes, the outer end is
fanned to accommodate the button shank and the inner end is bar-tacked to
give strength.
Fig. 8.6 Steps in making button holes
84
8.3.2.2 Machine worked buttonholes

Readymade shirts usually have machine worked buttonholes. They can be
done with an automatic machine or with an ordinary machine which has a
buttonhole attachment.
8.3.2.3 Fabric or bound buttonholes
These are more decorative than worked button holes and are suitable for
womens or childrens garments. A binding strip is used to bind the raw edges of
the hole. The binding may also be in contrast or design for decorative effects.
Pin an interface on the wrong side and mark the buttonhole. Cut a strip of
material 1 inch wide and 1 inch longer than the length of finished buttonhole.
Place the strip with right sides facing and work a row of tacking stitches and
then machine baste. Then cut along the tacking line to within inch of the ends
and then cut diagonally to all four corners as in fig. 8.7. Pull the binding strip
through the slit to wrong side of the garment. Next fold back the strip to form an
even binding of about 1/8 inch wide along each side meeting the center of opening.
Baste the binding along each side of the buttonhole. Remove the excess interfacing
fabric leaving about inch beyond the buttonholes at each end.
Fig. 8.7 Making of Bound Buttonhole
8.4 Hook and Eyes

Hooks and eyes are small but comparatively strong fasteners. Hence, these
are used on plackets where there is crosswise strain. They form an inconspicuous
closing. Though they are mostly applied at single point of a garment opening,
such as waistband or neckline, they can also be used to fasten an entire opening.
There are several types of hooks and eyes, each designed to serve a particular
purpose. General purpose hooks and eyes are the smallest of all the types and
are used primarily as supplementary fasteners, for example a hook and an eye
at the top of zipper placket.
85
8.4.1. Stitching of hooks and eyes

The hook is always sewn on to the back of the overlap and positioned so
that the end of the hook does not extend further than the edge of under1ap of
the garment. Over sew each loop and across the bar of the hook. Position the
metal bar or eye on the opposite right side of the underlap and over sew around
the loops. The hook and eye should appear invisible when fastened.
In some cases, a thread eye can be used as a substitute for a metal eye.
A thread eye is not as strong as a metal eye; hence should not be used at places
where there is much strain. To form a thread eye, use a single strand of heavyduty thread or double strand of common sewing thread of colour matching with
the fabric. A thread eye should be as long as the space between its two placements
marks. Insert needle into fabric at one mark and bring it up at the other mark.
Apply 2 -3 more stitches in the same way. Cover all the strands with closely
spaced blanket stitches, taking care not to catch the fabric beneath. When finished,
bring the needle and thread to the wrong side and fasten securely (Fig. 8.8).
Hook
Loop
Straight
Fig. 8.8 Hooks and eyes
8.5 Button Loops

Instead of buttonholes, loops may be used to fasten buttons. These may
be made of thread or cloth.
8.5.1 Thread Loops
The thread loop is an inconspicuous fastening which is most often found
at the neck edge of collars. To make a thread loop, sew four or five strands of
matching thread on the underlap in the correct position, work buttonhole stitches
over these strands (Fig.8.9)
86
Fig. 8.9 Thread loops
8.5.2 Fabric loops

These are made of strips of bias fabric stitched and turned inside out to
form a narrow tube. The fabric used may be of self material or harmonizing
material. This type of fastening adds a decorative trim to childrens and womens
garments. Buttons matching to the fabric loops are fixed on the underlap.
8.5.3 Corded loops
These are made the same way as ordinary cloth loops except that a cording
is placed inside the bias strip.
Fig. 8.10 Fabric or corded loop
8.5.4 Corded frogs

These are very decorative and can be made in varied designs. Button
loops of the frog should be long enough to slip over button smoothly (Fig. 8.11).
Fig. 8.11 Corded frog loops
87
8.6 Snaps
Snaps or press buttons are a kind of small fasteners having less holding
power than hooks and eyes. It is best to use them where there is not much strain
on the opening. Each snap has two parts - a ball or knob and a socket. Generalpurpose snaps range in size from fine to heavy.
Other snap types are covered snaps, no-sew snaps and snap tape. Covered
snaps are intended for use on garments, such as jackets, where it is desirable
that the snap not be apparent when the garment is worn open. No-sew snaps
are strong fasteners that are not sewed to the garment, but cleaved into the
fabric. Snap tape has the ball half of the snap on one tape and the socket half on
the other. The tapes can be machine or hand stitched on back side of the overlap
and right side of the under lap.
Underlap
Overlap
Ball
Snap tape
Socket
Fig. 8.12 Snaps and Snap Tapes
8.6.1 Stitching of snaps

The knobs are stitched on the wrong side of the overlap close to the edge
and must take care to see that the stitches that fasten the button to the overlap
do not show on the right side of the garment. Press the knob against the underlap
to form the slight impression to place the socket. Place the socket side of the
snap center over impression and stitch. (Fig. 8.13)
Fig. 8.13 Stitching Snap fasteners
88
8.7 Fancy buttons

These are buttons generally used for decorative purpose. They are mainly
false buttons which are used for not closing the placket. They are worked on the
right side of the garment. These buttons are commonly used on childrens or
ladies garments to give the decorative details in the garment. They are readily
available in the market in wide range of colours, shapes, textures and made of
different materials like fabric, plastic, metal, wood etc.,
Fig. 8.14 Fancy Buttons
Summary
All the garment openings need to be closed with the aid of fasteners. The
type of fasteners selected will depend on the position, the amount of strain it will
receive and whether it is to remain concealed or form a decorative feature on
the garment. They should be fixed in such as way that the right side of the
garment laps over the leftside for women and left over right for men. Fasteners
should be selected to suit the colour, design and texture of the fabric, the style
and use of the garment and the position of the placket. One should also consider
the age and sex of the wearer. Hooks and eyes, buttons, buttonholes, snaps,
fabric loops are some of the types of the fasteners that may be used as fasteners.

Indicate the suitable place for hooks and eyes in a kurti.
Is thread eye stronger than metal eye?
Are corded frogs button or buttonholes?
Can snaps be used near the waist line placket?
How many parts a snap contains.
Are fancy buttons real closures?
What type of buttons are suitable for dressy garments?
Do shank button have hole on the front side?
89
What type of buttons are suitable for coats or kurtas?

What type of buttonholes are marked on strained openings?
What is the general calculation followed to mark the buttonhole?
Which type of button hole working is more decorative?
What stitches are used to make hand worked buttonhole?

1. What is a fastener?
2. Why fasteners are required to finish a placket opening?
3. What are the points considered in selection of fasteners?
4. What are the different types of buttonholes?
5. What are the different ways of working buttonholes?
6. Where are the vertical buttonholes used? Explain the procedure used in
making these buttonholes?
7. Where are the hooks and eyes used? Explain the types of eyes?
8. What fasterners are replaced by fabric loops in plackets?
9. What are the possible ways of placing decorative buttons?
10. What are the possible fasteners used on childrens garments?

1. Write in detail about the marking and making of different buttonholes?
2. Explain the difference between the hooks and eyes and buttonholes.
3. What are the different fabric loops used to replace the buttonholes?
4. Explain about the decorative fasteners and their respective uses in various
garments.
5. Why fasteners are required to close the placket opening? Explain the
steps involved in selection of fasteners.

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UNIT

Sewing Equipments and

Fashion Garment Making

Fig. 1.1 Measuring tape

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

Fig 1.2. Ruler

1.1.3 Yard stick or Meter scale

Fig 1.3. Yard Stick or Meter Scale

Fashion Garment Making

1.1.5 Hem Gauge

Fig 1.5 Hem Gauge

1.1.6 Hem Marker

Fig. 1.6 Hem Marker

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

1.2 Marking Tools

Fig. 1.7 Tracing wheel

1.2.2 Dress Makers Carbon or Tracing Paper

1.3 Cutting Tools

Fashion Garment Making

Fig. 1.8 Scissor

1.3.2 Dress Makes Shears or Bent-Handle Shears:

Fig. 1.9 Bent Handle Shear

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

1.3.3 Pinking Shears

Fig. 1.10 Pinking Shear

1.3.4 Buttonhole Scissors

Fig. 1.11 Buttonhole scissors

1.3.5 Electric Scissors

Fig. 1.12 Electric Scissor

Fashion Garment Making

1.3.6 Rotary Cutter

Fig. 1.13 Rotary Cutters

1.4 Sewing Tools

Fig. 1.14 Embroidery Frame

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

1.4.2 Hand Sewing Needles

Fig. 1.15 Hand Sewing Needles

1.4.3 Sewing Machine Needles

Fashion Garment Making

1.4.6 Needle Threader

Fig. 1.17 Needle Threader

Fig. 1.18 Thimble

Fig. 1.19 Stiletto

Fig. 1.20 Bodkin

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

1.5 General Tools

Fig.1.21 Pin Cushion

Fashion Garment Making

1.5.3 Seam Ripper

Fig. 1.22 Seam ripper

1.5.4 Orange Stick

Fig. 1.23 Orange Stick

Cutting Board or Table

A table of 5 feet by 3 feet and height of 2 feet 6 inches is of convenient

Fig. 1.24 Cutting Board or Table

Fig. 1.25 Mirror

Paper - I Fundamentals of Garment Construction

1.5.7 Dress Form