Bianca Blouse with Embroidery

The Bianca Blouse is a relaxed fit

women’s top with set-in sleeves,
gathers at the bicep, and open
loose around the wrist. The front
has a deep V-neck with facing on
the front and back neckline.
There are angled darts on the
side front and waist darts on the
back to define a fitted shape. To
allow for more comfort and
movement there are side slits.
The top portion of the sleeves are
the perfect canvas for machine
embroidery along with the front
neckline. Be comfortable while
remaining stylish with the Bianca
Blouse. Read through all of the
instructions before starting, grab
your machine and let’s get
stitching!

Supplies and Fabric Requirements

□ Fabric Suggestions: Cotton, Rayon, Voile, linen, and other light to medium weight woven
materials. Extra fabric recommended to match one-way prints, plaids, or stripes
44/45” (112 cm) wide - 2-1/3 yards (2.13 meters)
60” (153 cm) wide - 1-1/2 yards (1.37 meters)
□ 1/3 yard (0.3 meters) Fusible Interfacing
□ Iron on Tear-Away stabilizer
□ BERNINA sewing, embroidery machine (with Maxi hoop), and serger
□ Threads:
□ Sewing thread with matching bobbin “Metrosene” (Mettler)
□ Serger thread 4 cones “SeraFLEX” (Mettler)
□ Embroidery thread “Polysheen” (Mettler) in 13 colors
□ Needles:
□ Universal 80/12
□ Embroidery 75/11
□ Marking pen or transfer paper/tracing wheel combo
□ Fabric Shears
□ Clips or Pins
□ Iron with steam and pressing surface
□ Tailors ham
□ Bianca blouse pattern
□ Printer and paper
□ Tape or glue stick
□ Embroidery file for sleeve design and front design
Bianca Blouse � SWASG101 � © Sue O’Very-Pruitt 2021 � SookieSews.com Page 1
 Bianca Blouse with Embroidery

Women’s Size Chart

How to measure:
Measure with same undergarments you plan to wear when the garment is finished, i.e. bra, pantyhose, etc.

Bust: Measure around the body, under the arms, and across the fullest part of the bust. Make sure the tape
measure is straight across the back. Take a deep breath in expanding the chest. Use the fullest
measurement for maximum comfort.

Waist: Use a string or small piece of elastic and tie around where the natural waistline is. Move from side
to side to ensure the placement continues to land on the waist. Measure around the body at waist level.

Hips: Measure around the body at the maximum part of the hips/thighs, whichever is largest. If the largest
part is the thighs, keep measuring tape on and measure in the seated position. This will provide the true
largest hip and will provide maximum comfort.

Inches
SIZE BUST WAIST HIP
S 37" 27" 40"
M 39" 29" 42"
L 42.5" 32" 45.5"
Bust XL 46" 36" 49.5"
2XL 50.5" 39.5" 53.5"
Waist 3XL 52.5" 41.5" 55.5"

Hip CM
SIZE BUST WAIST HIP
S 94 68 101
M 99 74 106
L 107 81 115
XL 116 91 126
2XL 128 100 136
3XL 133 105 141

Bianca Blouse � SWASG101 � © Sue O’Very-Pruitt 2021 � SookieSews.com Page 2

 Bianca Blouse with Embroidery

Sewing Instructions: Seam Allowance ½” (1.27 cm),

Sleeve hem and bottom hem 1” (2.54cm)

1. Cut pattern pieces accordingly. Transfer front and back darts to fabric with marking pen or
transfer paper and tracing wheel.
2. Serge with 4-Thread overlock around the outside of the Front, Back, Top Sleeve, and
Bottom Sleeve.
3. Add embroidery: Depending on the material, use appropriate stabilizer and hooping
methods for the materials. Reference Sue O’Very-Pruitt's book, Pocket Guide to Stabilizers,
for additional stabilizer selection assistance. If using a woven material, fuse the Iron on Tear-
Away stabilizer to the wrong side of the fabric, hoop and embroider the two sleeves and the
front neck area.
4. Fold darts right sides together and stitch with regular sewing machine, back stitch at the
beginning and end of each dart. Press darts flat. Press front darts towards the bottom hem.
Press back darts towards center.
5. Press the scratchy side of the Fusible Woven Interfacing Front and Back Facings to
the wrong side of the Front and Back Facings, follow manufacturers pressing instruction.
These are now the Front and Back Facing pieces. Serge each shoulder seam of the Front
and Back Facings flat with 4-Thread overlock. Place the Front and Back Facing pieces
right side together and sew the shoulder seams. This is now the Facing. Press the Facing
seams flat and then press seams open. Serge around the outside of the Facing. Do not
serge the neckline of the Facing as this will be stitched and cut down in the next step.
6. Place the Front and Back blouse right sides together and sew shoulder seams. Press
seams flat and then press seams open. Place Facing right sides together with the Front/
Back neckline. Pin in place. Sew Facing to the Front/Back neckline. Trim seam to ¼” (.63
cm) and clip center “V”. Press neckline seam towards the Facing side. Stay stitch Facing to
neckline seam allowance. Press Facing open. Fold wrong side of Facing to touch wrong
side of Front/Back neckline, press flat. With “stitch-in-ditch” method, tack Facing at
shoulder seams. Give neckline final press. Neckline is finished.
7. With Front and Back blouse right sides together, pin the side seams. Sew side seam from
under the armhole to the top “T” notch on side seam pieces. This is the top of the side slit.
Press side seams flat. Press side seams open from under the armhole to the bottom hem.
Top stitch each side slit using 3/8” (.95 cm) stitching from the hem to the top of the slit,
across, and down to the other side. Press hem up 1” (2.54 cm) towards the wrong side. Hem
bottom of blouse on the front and back with ¾” (1.90 cm) top stitch. When top stitch is
finished, press the hem, side seams, and slits flat.

Bianca Blouse � SWASG101 � © Sue O’Very-Pruitt 2021 � SookieSews.com Page 3

 Bianca Blouse with Embroidery

Sewing Instructions: Seam Allowance ½” (1.27 cm),

Sleeve hem and bottom hem 1” (2.54cm)

8. With favorite gathering method, gather the top portion of the Bottom Sleeve at ¼” (.63 cm)
to fit into the bottom portion of the Top Sleeve. Place right sides together, pin and stitch the
two sleeve pieces right side together. Repeat second sleeve. Press each sleeve seam towards
the Top Sleeve and top stitch securing the sleeve pieces together so the gathers lay nicely.
Press sleeve flat. Fold each sleeve right sides together aligning the sleeve inseam. Pin
together and sew, notice the notched out portion of the Bottom Sleeve for the hem and follow
the seam when stitching. Press each sleeve inseam flat and then open, clip into the 1” hem
notch as needed. Press up the 1” (2.54 cm) hem and stitch with ¾” (1.90 cm) top stitch.
Sleeves are finished and ready to be set into armhole.
9. Slightly gather the top portion of the sleeve cap from front “T” notches to back “T” notches
to help ease the sleeve cap into the armhole. Pin in place right sides together. Sew sleeves
into armholes. Press sleeve seams with a tailors ham towards the blouse.
10. Give final press to the blouse and wear!

Hello my Sewing Bees,

Thank you for supporting our small family business by

purchasing this design. I hope you enjoyed making it as
much as I did designing it. Nothing makes me happier than
seeing your finished projects, so be sure to share them on
social media by tagging me @SookieSews and using the
hashtag #SookieSews and #berninausa.

Have a Creative Day,

Sookie
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This pattern is protected by a copyright and is intended for the personal use of the purchaser only. If projects are made in a classroom setting,
each student must have their own pattern. Please respect the time and energy it took to produce this pattern and do not copy it. For more details
head to the website for detailed copyright information.

Bianca Blouse � SWASG101 � © Sue O’Very-Pruitt 2021 � SookieSews.com Page 4