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Compaction

Purpose •Several different types of machines can be used for the compaction process.
To reduce fabric shrinkage mechanically by forcing the structure of the The original compactor was designed for woven fabrics.
fabric to compress upon itself.
•It was known by the trademark Sanforizer. Today, this device is known as a
blanket compactor.
Process
Compacted by a rubber blanket by a series of rolls. Steam arennecessary to •However, some modern blanket compactors are designed for use with tubular
allow the yarns to slip by each other. knit fabrics. Additionally, there are other types of compactors that are designed
primarily for knit fabrics.
Fabric Characteristics
• A way of mechanically reducing fabric shrinkage. •The most popular machines are the heated roll and shoe compactor and the
• Fabric becomes heavier and yardage yield is reduced. blade compactor.
• As long as the fabric is not stretched, the fabric is stable.

 As the fabric enters the compactor, the

feed roll is turning at a high rate of speed
 The blade compactor was originally designed for
compared to the turning rate of the processing both tubular and open‐width knit fabrics.
take‐off roll. It is similar in many aspects to the heated roll and
shoe compactor, but the fabric processing path is
 Often the fabric is damp or moistened different.
with steam for lubrication as it enters the  This machine is known as a gull wing compactor due
machine. to the similarity of the fabric processing path.
 This compactor was also specifically designed for
 The heat from the feed roll and shoe use with cotton and cotton blend knitted fabrics, but
gives a steam ironing effect to the moist it can be very effective for fabrics composed of other
fabric as it is processed. types of fibers.

 This machine was designed to be used

with tubular knit fabrics and was
specifically targeted to be used with
cotton and cotton blend fabrics.

 With some fabric styles, the inherent

shrinkage potential is too great to correct
 This is a typical blanket compactor designed for with a single run through a belt
knit fabrics. It uses a continuous rubber blanket compactor.
that is approximately one inch thick.
 This is especially truewith some knitted
 A compactor designed for woven fabrics would fabric styles. For these products, two
have a continuous blanket approximately four passes through a belt compactor are
inches thick required to achieve an acceptable
 The heated cylinder, sometimes referred to as a compacting effect.
Palmer unit, is normally covered with a non‐slip  The tandem belt compactor was designed
surface. to achieve the desired effect on these
types of fabrics in one continuous run
through the compacting machine.
 It is, quite simply, two belt compactors
placed in position so that the fabric can
be compacted twice in a single pass
through the machine
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Re la x a t i on Drying
Purpose
•One way to correct this added shrinkage due to wet processing is to use relaxation drying.
•During the drying of the fabric, stress is allowed to relax out of the fabric.
To minimize shrinkage in knitted fabric during drying by
•Since this knitted fabric is not held tightly in place, overfeeding does not compact the fabric but
overfeeding fabric into dryer, minimizing tension, and allowing allows the knit loops to rearrange or relax back to their original knitted configuration.
fabric to pre‐shrink during the drying process.
•This drying process does not remove all shrinkage potential from the fabric, but it does restore it
to a stable dimension and stable knitted loop configuration.
Factors Affecting Shrinkage During Drying
•After this process, additional shrinkage potential can be removed from the fabric by usingthe
compacting process.
• Mechanical Action
• Overfeed
• Spreading
• Moisture Content
• Temperature

Criteria
 The most popular type of relaxation
dryer is known as the tensionless  . Selection of physico-chemical method
conveyer dryer
 During the drying process, the fabric  . Establishing evaluation method
forms a series of waves that are similar
in appearance to sinewaves.  . Devising suitable application conditions

 The combination of the overfeeding and  . Maintaining adequate storage conditions

mechanical action of the wave
formation allows the loops of the  . Ensuring optimum usage and adequate disposal
knitted fabric to rearrange and relax out
the stress that was placed in the fabric  . Meeting the targeted sustainable norms
during wet processing

Water/oil
repellent Effect finishes
Antistatic Soil
finish release
• Skin care –rejuvenating

• Health care –antimicrobial

Stain & UV
Soil
Resistant protective • Sensory perception - fragrance

Textile • Fire protective – flame retardant

Finishes
Anti- • Sun protection – UV absorbers
microbial,
Flame
Moth
retardant
proofing • Soil free - antistatic
finish
• Stain free- oil & water repellent
Water
Heat
Repellent & • Quick dry - moisture management
Setting
Water Proof
Skin care • Wrinkle free - resins
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Antistatic Finish Antistatic Finish

Evaluation of antistatic finishing agents

 Avoid Charge Creation upon Rubbing AATCC Test Method 76: Electrical resistivity of fabrics

 Wicking Effect This test determines electrical surface resistivity of fabrics (ohm/square) which is calculated
by determining electrical resistance offered by the antistatic finished fabric placed between
 Soft Handle
two parallel plates.
 Improves Fat and Soil Release

 Good Fastness to Washing

AATCC Test Method 115: Electrostatic clinging of fabrics: Fabric to metal test
 Durability of this finish is up to 10 washes
This test evaluates the clinging tendency of fabrics due to electric charge generation

SOIL RELEASE FINISH SOIL RELEASE FINISH

What is Soil Release Finish?

Objective
 To allow stains to be removed more easily during laundering
The finish that allow stains to leave the fabric
faster & makes fabric cleanable without Chemicals used
significant loss of soil release properties.  Carboxy-based (acrylic and methacrylic acid and ester copolymers )
Soil release is the term used to describe the clean  Hydroxy-based (methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl starch )
ability of the fabric by the laundring process.
 Ethoxy based (condensation copolymers of terephthalic acid
 Soil release finishes can be found on many with ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol) Fluorinated
industrial or service garments. compounds representing repellent characteristics
 A soil release finish can help prevent
different liquids and powders from soaking (hydrophobic group) when dry while hydrophillic behaviour
into the fabric. during laundering.

Mechanism SOIL RELEASE FINISH SOIL RELEASE FINISH

● Breaking of adhesive bond between soil Mechanism of Soil Release Finish (DUALACTION):
particle and fibre
 The flouro carbon polymers have the unusual property of
 being hydrophobic and oleophobic in air and hydrophilic and oil
●Wetting out the particle to make a stable
dispersion releasing during the laundering process.

 This is called as ‘dual action’ mechanism . The hydrophilic blocks are

●Carry off the dispersed particle into the bulk shielded by the fluorocarbon segments when dry, presenting a repellent
surface.
of wash water
 After immersion in the wash bath, the hydrophilic blocks can swell and

Application actually reverse the interfacial characteristics of the surface, yielding

Pad-dry-cure, spraying, coating the hydrophilic surface necessary for easy oily soil release during
washing.
 So the detergent used during washing can easily penetrate inside
Commercial products the fabric and enhance the soil release.
Resiguard SR (Resil), Bayprotect CL
 Typically, these modified fluoro polymers are pad applied
(Tanatex), Ruco-guard C6 (Rudolf)
 to fabrics followed by drying & curing
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SOIL RELEASE FINISH SOIL RELEASE FINISH

Factors Lead in Soil Release Finish:

 Evaluation
FACTORS EXPLANATION
AATCC 130
Nature of the soil Oily soil or particulate soil, hydrophobic or hydrophilic, liquid or solid
Type of fibre, hydrophilic or hydrophobic, smooth or porous fibre
Kind of fibres surface  Storage
Textile construction; yarn (staple or filament), fabric (knit, woven or Cool-dry conditions as
Nature of textile nonwoven
specified by chemical supplier
Effects of dyeing and Difference in binder films, residual hydrophobic dyeing auxiliaries
printing
Compatible with antistatic finishes, easy-care finishes and other  Disposal
Effects of other finishes finishes not harmed by a hydrophilic surface.
Not compatible with conventional repellent finishes and other finishes As specifiedin MSDS of
where hydrophilicity is detrimental to finish performance supplier

Washing conditions Detergents, hydrodynamic flow in the washing machine

HEAT SETTING HEAT SETTING

Why heat setting? Relevance of heat setting

 Internal stresses responsible for 10-15% of shrinkage in PET fabric. TEMPERATURE OF HEAT SETTING

 These stresses are minimized allowing controlled shrinkage in relaxed/stretched condition.  Setting process releases strains

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSmgLRnf
What is the temperature of heat setting?
imposed during drawing
What is heat setting?  Heat setting is carried out at 180ᵒC.

wA0&pp=ygUMaGVhdCBzZXR0aW5n
 Heat setting of PET improves
 A process that uses heat to stabilize the shape and dimensions of yarns or fabrics made of dimensional stability  it is preferred in-spite of lowest dye-
thermoplastic fibers. uptake
 Processes like dyeing, printing
Effects of heat setting
require stability of fabric structure Why 180ᵒC?
 Improved dimensionalstability  It is necessary to avoid crease marks  Residual shrinkage (R.S.) is required to be
 Increased wrinkle resistance after dyeing nil.
 Increased drape  And to avoid distortion of printed
design  Minimum R.S. for fabrics treated at 180ᵒC.
 Reduced pillingtendency Thus it is the ideal temperature for heat
 Reduced edge curling specifically in Knitted fabrics setting.

Skin Care Finishes Skin Care Finishes

Objective Application
Pad-dry-cure, Spraying, coating
 Moisturising effect
Commercial products
 Anti inflammatory effect
Skintex (Pulcra chem.), Rucofin Avo New (Rudolf), Saracare VE (Sarex)
 Skin whitening
Evaluation
 Anti ageing
● Qualitative evaluation –rating by a panel
 Improves blood circulation
● Quantitative assessment – add-on/retention
 Protect, soothes and rejuvenates skin
● Chemical analysis - instrumental, FTIR
Chemistry
● Performance behavior – hand tags of Brands
 Vitamin A, D, E
Storage
 Aloe vera
Cool-dry conditions as specified by chemical supplier
 Microencapsulated natural oil such aspeppermint, lemon, passion fruit ,etc.
Disposal
Mechanism
As specified in MSDS of supplier
 During body movement active ingredients slowly released from fabric to the skin
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Antibacterial finishing of textiles

The bacterial attack on textiles results in:

CHEMICAL AND
Detrimentaleffects
Odor Contamination on the consumer
formation risk

BIOLOGICAL AGENTS Strength reduction Quality loss

Detrimental
effects on the
fabric itself

DEVELOPMENT OF ANTIBACTERIAL FINISHES FOR

TEXTILES

Antibacterial finishing Antibacterial finishing

Classification of bacterial species  Quaternary ammonium compounds

Controlled release antimicrobials
 Gram Positive Bacteria  Natural products like chitosan, neem, turmeric,etc
 Nanoparticles such as TiO2, Silver, Zinc,Copper,etc.
 Staphylococcus aureus
Mechanism  Triclosan finds extensive use in
 Staphylococcus epidermidis
 By preventing cell reproduction, blocking of enzymes,
mouthwashes, toothpastes, liquid
 Corynebacterium
destruction of the cell walls and poisoning the cell hand soaps, deodorant products.
from within  Although it is effective against most
 Gram Negative Bacteria
Application bacteria, it has poor antifungal
properties.
 Escherichia coli Pad-dry-cure, spraying, coating, exhaust
 Triclosan is also important as a
 Klebsiella pneumoniae Commercial products textile finish, but since its water
 Proteus vulgaris Sanitized (Archroma), HeiQ PURE TF solubility is very low, aqueous
 Salmonella typhi (Huntsman), Silvadur (Dow), AEM 5700 (Aegis) application requires use of
23 dispersing agents and binders.

Antibacterial finishing Antibacterial finishing

 Controlled-release antimicrobials continues with organo-silver
Bound antimicrobialst
compounds and silver zeolites, which are promising candidates for  Several antimicrobial finishes that
textile finishes function at fibre surfaces have been
commercialised.
 One popular product is based on
 Silver ions, for example, incorporated in glass ceramic, have a very octadecylaminodimethyltrimet
low toxicity profile and excellent heat stability. oxysilylpropylammonium chloride (a).
This material can be applied by either
 These principles are also used for fibre modification, an alternative Exhaust or continuous methods (Pad- dry-
cure).
to the antimicrobial finishes with high permanence
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Antibacterial finishing Antibacterial finishing

Antibacterial agents for textile finishing Test methods

Antibacterial agents for textiles are based on silver, quaternary ammonium compounds, triclosan, Test title Description Examples Of Textile Tested

chitosan, etc. AATCC-147-1998 Qualitative antibacterial Clothing: socks t-shirts, shoe

USA assessment of diffusible interlinings
Metal nanoparticles for antibacterial finishing of textiles are shown in table antibacterial agents on Others : bedding and
textile towels,
Agents Textile material Production method leather etc.
polyester, cotton, dip-pad-dry-cure method
AATCC-100-1998 Quantitative assessment of Clothing: socks t-shirts, shoe
Ag spandex
USA antibacterial finishes on interlinings ,underwear
cotton, cellulose sol gel process textiles Others :disc cloths, floor
fibres coverings
TiO2 + CeO2 cotton coating of finished fabric by
plasma enhanced chemical
vapor deposition BS 6085 part 4 1992 Resistance of textiles to Clothing: woolen
Ag + TiO2 cotton dip-pad-dry-cure method bacterial degradation
28

ZnO cotton dip-pad-dry-cure method

29

Antibacterial finishing Antibacterial finishing

Evaluation
● Qualitative evaluation –AATCC 147
● Quantitative assessment – AATCC 100

Storage
Cool-dry conditions as specified by
chemical supplier
Disposal
As specified in MSDS of supplier

Antibacterial finishing Insect repellent Finishes

Troubleshooting for antimicrobial finishes

 Difficulties arise in several areas with antimicrobial finishes.  Mosquitoes have occupied a position of importance as a pest of mankind
 The use of binders and resins with controlled-release finishes can lead to stiff hand and
fabric strength loss.  Mosquitoes belongs to "nematocerid flies” family

 Colour changes after finishing can also occur.  Total species of mosquitoes : 3500  Mosquitoes are vegetarian in nature
 If residual finish is improperly disposed of at the finishing plant, the desirable and
necessary microbes in the waste treatment facility can be destroyed, causing serious Why Mosquito Sugar Energy
Suck Blood? Female
ecological problems.
Mosquito
 Another area of concern is whether the long term use of antimicrobial products in our Egg
Blood
society will lead to the eventual development of resistant microbes with perhaps deadly Development

consequences.
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Insect repellent Finishes Mosquito repellent Finishes

Global Situation Summary

 WHO’s world malaria report fact sheet Chemical
 Malaria patient : 500 million per year 2018 Objective Repellents
 South East Asia is the second most ● Protection from Mosquito bites
 Dengue Infection: 50 million per year affected region in the world
(WHO) ● Retards common flyes
 In Asian countries India has the
highest malaria burden (24 million Chemistry
 Mostly in sub-Saharan Africa, Asia, cases per year)
Latin America, the Middle East, parts  DEET (Di-Ethyl Meta Toluamide), Allethrin,
of Europe and two of the Pacific  Followed by Indonesia and Myanmar
Permethrin, Malathion, etc. are the chemicals which
countries are also affected.
are used as insecticides and as an insect repellent.
 Microcapsules of natural oil Natural
Repellents
http://nvbdcp.gov.in/Doc/Malaria_Situation_Dec_Prov09.pdf

Mosquito repellent Finishes Mosquito repellent Finishes

Need of Mosquito Repellent

 Mosquito-bornediseases
Textile
- Malaria - ChickenGuinea
- Filariasis - Dengue fever

 Initial Preventivemeasures “Prevention is always

 Skin lotion better than cure”
 Mosquito repellentpad
 Vaporisers

Mosquito repellent Finishes Mosquito repellent Finishes

Advantages
Testing Method
No loss by abrasion

B
• Testing monitor keeps arm wrapped with rolled the treated fabric in the cage for
30min
No loss due to Better
skin absorption A C adherence to
Mosquito cotton and • The number of landing of exposure was counted and recorded as per time interval
Repellent synthetic fibres of (After 2min-5min-10min-20min-30min)
Textile

Slower • Percentage of repellency was defined as the percentage reduction in the number
No removal of the E D evaporation of landing on the treated sample, as compared to that of control sample.
active compoundby because oflower
sweating temperature
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Mosquito repellent Finishes Mosquito repellent Finishes

1. DMDHEU as cross linker
Application by DMDHEU resin
O H
Modified DEET – 10 gpl & 50 gpl
C O H CH2 N C N CH2 OH H N
Saralink ULF – 170 gpl E
L
Softner – 40 gpl L C C OH
U 800C for 2 min. N
MgCl2 – 20 gpl L
O H H O
MD + Ethanol S
E
DMDHEU Modified DEET
Pad Pad 1500C
Mechanism of Reaction for 4-5 min

O H
Dry Cure
Resin+Softner+Cross C O CH2 N C N CH2 N
linker+Water (800C for 2 (1500C for E
min) 4-5 min) L
L C C OH
U
L N
O H H O
S
E

2. Cross linkingmethodMosquito repellent Finishes Possible Mechanism of treatment with fabric

Application by Citric Acid method

Modified DEET (MD) – 10 gpl & 50 gpl β- CD Capsules
β- CD Capsules
citric acid - 80gpl, sodium hypophosphite - 16 gpl 90% pick up

Citric acid +Sod. Cure Cure

Hypophosphite +water MD + Ethanol
(1700C for (1200C
Pad 1 min) Pad for 2 min)

Fabric Fabric
Dry Air Dry
(800C for
2 min)

Mechanism Mosquito repellent Finishes Testing

Mosquito repellent Finishes
1. Transpiration repellency
Mosquitoes usually use the warm and humid convection rising from the human
body as a mode for contacting humans by sensing an increase in atmospheric  Durability to washing of dyed fabric
carbon-dioxide concentrations. In Olfactory mode which is also called as
transpiration repellency, humidity-sensing holes of mosquitoes which helps the
mosquitoes in locating the living organisms are blocked hence they cannot locate  Mosquito repellency by Cage Test method
humans.
2. Direct-contact repellency  UV protective properties of fabrics
Repellent substances affects on the mosquito’s nervous system which causes them
to enter in a confused state and resist their behaviour at sub-lethal/mortal/toxic
doses, before knockdown due to their contact with fabric surface.
UPF rating was given according to the Australian/New Zealand Standard
(AS/NZS 4399, 1996) by using UV-visible spectrophotometer (UV 2600,
Application Shimadzu, Japan)
Pad-dry-cure, Spraying, Coating
Commercial products  Antibacterial Testing
Saraguard MOSQ(Sarex), Sanitized AM 23-24 (Archroma) AATCC 100-2004 test method
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Mosquito Repellency
Mosquito repellent Finishes Sensory Perception

• Eye - Color & Design for aesthetic appeal

• Skin – Feel & Comfort for wearing performance
• Nose – Odor & freshness for feel good factor

Control Sample Treated Sample Microencapsulated fragrances

Mosquito Repellency (%) = (𝐶−𝑇)

∗ • Controlled release during washing
100 • Masks sweat smell when rubbed during wearing
Where,
C - Number of mosquitoes collected from the control area
T - Number collected from the treated area of a subject.
• Therapeutic value - Aroma therapy