Ø Dye is organic or inorganic substances which can
absorb light and reflect some lights to show color. Ø The dyestuffs are generally water soluble substance.
Ø Pigment is a substance that can absorb light and
reflect some lights to show color but it is water insoluble substances. Ø Normally it is used for printing (with the presence of binder) or mass-coloration of the synthetic fibers. Ø Exhaustion of the dyestuff to the fibers is as follows:
1. Movement of dyestuff from dyebath to surface of
the fiber 2. Adsorption of the dyestuff into the surface of the fiber 3. Diffusion of the dyestuff into the center of the fiber Sequence of Dyeing
pad --> dry --> steam --> wash --> soap --> dry Stages of Dyeing Solution dyeing (Mass-coloration of the molten fibers)
Ø This method is for dyeing the molten fibers or
polymers chips with pigment colors.
Ø After that, the molten polymers will extrude from
a spinneret to form fibers.
Ø Advantage: give excellent fastness
Ø Disadvantage: very difficult to clean
6 Stock Dyeing Ø This is the method of dyeing fibers before it is spun into yarn. Ø It is done by treating loose fibers in large containers with dye bath at a certain temperature.
Ø Advantages: • Fabrics have soft heather like coloration • Easiest dye penetration
Ø Disadvantages: • Most costly • Risk of change in fashion • High percentage of fiber loss Top Dyeing
Ø Similar to stock dyeing
Ø Typically used for dyeing worsted slivers
Yarn Dyeing Ø This is the method of dyeing yarns in forms of hanks or packages dyeing.
Ø Advantages: • Used for fabrics with stripes, checks, plaids and other multicolored patterns.
Ø Disadvantages: • Second most costly method • Risk of change in fashion Ø Skein dyeing – dyeing of yarn in skeins form
Ø Package dyeing – dyeing of yarns
wrapped on cones or packages
Ø Beam dyeing – dyeing of yarn wound
on beams Fabric/ Piece Dyeing Ø This is the method of dyeing done after weaving or knitting.
Ø This is very popular method of dyeing as the dyed
fabrics will be processed further to garment industries very easily.
Ø Advantages: • Least costly method • Adaptable to all fabrics • Minimal color risk
Ø Disadvantages: • Limited to solid colors 11 Ø Fabric dyeing can be done in 2 ways:
1. Open width form using the fabrics to
spread without any creases and dye them.
2. Rope form using the fabrics with the
form like a rope (many creases and look like “a rope”) Another classification of Fabric dyeing:
1. batch process
Ø This is done by immerging the fabric into dye solution for a
long time in order to let the dye penetrate into the fabrics.
Advantage: Ø inexpensive Ø no need to train the worker to look after and run them properly.
Disadvantage: Ø lots of water needed, lots of waste water generated Ø very slow process 13 2. Continuous Process
Ø This method is designed by putting different
machinery into a sequence so that it can produce the dyed fabric in one pass.
Ø Advantage: very fast process, small amount of
water needed in the process
Ø Disadvantage: very expensive, need to train
the worker to look after and run them properly. Garment Dyeing
Ø This method is the last stage of the dyeing of
material where garment is dyed.
Ø However, the penetration of the dye solution
may not be completely passed to the fibers such as between the seams, buttons, zippers etc.
Ø Normally, it is used for lingerie, socks, sweater
dyeing etc.
15 Advatages: • Choice of color closest to color season • Elimination of waste from prior processing
Disadvantages: • Limited to garment of simple construction Machineries of Dyeing
Ø Beam Dyeing
Ø Pad Dyeing
Ø Jet Dyeing Beam Dyeing ØApplicable for both yarn and fabric dyeing in open width form ØWarp beam or fabric wound on perforated cylinder from which dye solution passes through ØFabric stationary, dye solution moves
ØAdvantage: § It is rapid and economical § less tension on fabric
ØLimitations: Only lightweight fabrics of open
construction can be dyed Pad Dyeing ØJigger dyeing, winch dyeing and Continuous padding ØFabric treated in open width form ØFabric moves, dye solution stationary in dye bath
ØAdvantage: It is rapid and economical
ØLimitations: § High tension generated on the fabric § Degrade the hand of material § Knitted, stretchable and very light fabric can not be dyed JIGGER WINCH Jet Dyeing ØFabric treated in Rope form ØFabric and dye solution both moves
ØAdvantage: § No pressure and little tension on fabric § Used for delicate and lightweight fabrics
ØLimitations: § Expensive § Required large space Types of Dyes Classification of Dyes Dyes
Natural Synthetic
Water soluble Water insoluble
Direct Vat
Reactive Azoic
Acid Sulphur
Basic Disperse Direct Dyes
Ø They can be dyed directly on cellulosic fibers.,
also used on wool, silk and nylon.
Ø Addition of salt facilitate the absorption of
dye.
Ø Advantage: cheap, easy to dye on fibers
Ø Disadvantage: poor wash fastness and some
dyes have poor light fastness. Reactive Dyes
Ø Reactive dyes are mainly used on cellulosic fibers.
Ø Form covalent bond with fibers.
Ø Advantage: high wash fastness due to covalent
bonding between fibers and dyes, easily dyed on fibers
Ø Disadvantage: Expensive Acid Dye (Anionic)
Ø The dye is called acid because it needs acidic
dyeing condition.
Ø It can be dyed on protein fibers (silk, wool, other
animal fibers) and on polyamide (nylon/) fibers.
Ø Inexpensive and good light fastness but poor wash
fastness
29 Basic Dye (Cationic) Ø The dye have positive charge on dye molecules.
Ø Normally, the dye can be applied on cotton,
linen, wool, silk, polyester and acrylic fibers.
Ø Give bright shades to fabric
Ø Good wash and light fastness properties
Vat Dye
Ø Vat dyes are insoluble in water.
Ø They are converted into soluble form by using
reducing agent (Sodium hydroxide).
Ø Applied on cotton, viscose, wool, nylon, polyester
and acrylics.
Ø Excellent wash and light fastness but expensive than
other classes of dyes. Sulphur Dye
Ø The dyeing process has the same process as
described in the vat dye except that using Sodium sulphide instead of Sodium hydroxide as reducing agent.
Ø Mostly used for cellulosic fibres and blends of
cellulosic fibres.
Ø Known for giving bright black colour.
32 Disperse Dye Ø The dye is named because this is less water soluble and normally appeared as dispersion in water.
Ø The dye shows no charge due to the groups
presented in the dye molecules.
Ø Used for polyester, nylon, and acetate fibers
Ø Used with high temperature and pressure
Ø Good fastness 33 Azo dyes ØAlso known as napthol dyes
