Tailoring and Dress Designing

Netaji Subhas Open University Commonwealth Educational Media Centre for Asia
DD-26, Sector-I, Salt Lake
Kolkata-700064
7/8 Sarv Priya Vihar,
New Delhi-110016 Tailoring and
Dress Designing
Apparel and Textile Design

Apparel and Textile Design

IISBN
S B N 978-93-82112-29-7
93-82112-01-4

@2016, NSOU & CEMCA 9 7 8 9 3 8 2 1 1 2 0297

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NETAJI SUBHAS OPEN UNIVERSITY

Unit 5 S Introduction to Pattern Making
Structure
5.0 Objectives
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Pattern Making and Garment Production
5.2.1 The Block Pattern
5.2.2 The Garment Pattern
5.2.3 Pattern Design Systems
5.2.4 Pattern Generation Systems
5.3 Historical Background
5.4 Measurement Techniques
5.4.1 Measurements
5.4.2 The Concept of Wearing Ease
5.4.3 Tools and Equipment
5.5 Figure Measurement
5.5.1 Direct Measurement
5.5.2 Taking Measurements
5.5.3 Size coded and Associated Body Measurements
5.5.4 Women of Medium Hight
5.5.5 Differential in the larger sizes
5.6 Terms of Pattern Making
5.6.1 Pattern Making Terms
5.6.2 Pattern Production Terms
5.6.3 Pattern Development Systems
5.6.4 Pattern Design System
5.7 Cost Sheet
5.8 Summary
5.9 References
5.10 Assessment

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5.0 Objectives
After going through this unit you will be able to––
N Understand the Pattern Making
N Know about Historical background
N Know about Measurement Technique
Learning outcome
After learning about pattern making, its help to make a proper dress with proper
fittings and measuring technic help to take proper measurement.

5.1 Introduction
Pattern making function connects design to production by producing paper
templates for all the components, such as cloth, lining and fusible. Which have to be
cut for a garment. Pattern making is a highly skilled technique, which calls for
technical ability a sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding
of the process technology used by the factory industrial pattern making has two basic
stages, the block pattern and the garment pattern.

5.2 Pattern Making and Garment Production

Pattern making function connects design to producing paper templates for all the
components, such as cloth, lining and fusible, which have to be cut for a garment.
Patternmaking is a highly skilled technique, which calls for technical ability, a
sensitivity for design interpretation and a practical understanding of the process
technology used by the garment pattern.

5.2.1 The Block Pattern

This is a basic pattern without any style features and incorporates the
measurements, proportions and posture of the today for which garments, developed
from this pattern, are intended. The block pattern can be created by either of the
following methods.
a) Flat Method : The components of the pattern, usually the body and sleeves,
are constructed by a draft (technical drawing), which incorporates the

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 measurements and proportions of the particular system used by the pattern
maker. This type of pattern draft can also be produced by a computer, which
has been programmed to construct basic patterns according to given mea-
surements and proportions.
b) Modeling : This was the original method of constructing garment patterns
before the advent of the flat systems and it is still widely used in the haute
couture end of the clothing business. Modeling entails the fitting of the block
garment, usually in toll on a workroom stand of the appropriate size, when
the fit and balance are satisfactory, the toile is removed from the stand and
each component is copied on the pattern paper and the necessary making –
up allowances added.
Flat systems owe their origins to modeling because a pattern draft is only a quick
and standardized method of reproducing the basic components, which were originally
arrived at through modeling.

5.2.2 The Garment Pattern

The styled patterns used for cutting the original sample garments can be
developed by a variety of means, including the that method, modeling or a combination
of both, when using the flat method the pattern maker superimposes the style lines
of the garment on to a copy of the block pattern, performs the necessary manipulations
and then adds the requisite sawing and other allowances to each component. Related
components are aligned to check their accuracy and nips. Notches are made in the
seam lines as guides for alignment and matching during sewing and making up.
The conventional methods of pattern construction are gradually being replaced
by computerized systems, which interact with the pattern maker. The essential
features of this technology are pattern design and pattern generation systems.

5.2.3 Pattern Design Systems

The pattern maker inputs to the system all the block patterns in current use. With
the aid of the computer the pattern maker can construct garment patterns from them
. alternatively a previously constructed pattern, stored in the system can be used as
the base pattern for a new style. It is also possible to store specific features such as
collars, lapels and pockets, provided the pattern maker has inputted matching
alignment points. For example, an existing lapel can be literally stuck-on to a
different forepart with a minimum of time and effort.
The finalized patterns can be plotted for verification before cutting them out, or
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they can be cut out on a regular plotter using a cutting head instead of a pen. Due
to the many set routines built into pattern design systems. The productivity of the
pattern maker is substantially higher than that achieved when using the traditional
methods of tracing, drawing, cutting out and marking by hand. The increased
productivity of PDS (Pattern Design System) makes a significant reduction in the
throughput time of new samples, and this a one the important factors of quick
response technology.
5.2.4 Pattern Generation Systems
When the pattern components for the top cloth have been developed on the
computer via PDS, the pattern generation system (PGS) automatically generates the
patterns for auxiliary components such as linings and fusible. It operates according
to rules specified in advance by the pattern maker on the relationship between top
cloth and lining or top cloth and fusible. The playing matrix of the system can also
take into account the characteristics of the top cloth to be used , incorporating this
information when generating the auxiliary patterns. A typical example of this is the
generation of a top collar from the under collar pattern where, if a heavy cloth is to
be used. The fullness allowance would be different from that required or a lightweight
fabric.

5.3 Historical Background

The art of tailoring can be traced back at least to the fourteenth century . when
it because fashionable in Europe to add an under layer of packing in the chest area
of men’s jackets Rather than taking its from the contours of the wearer’s body the
garment fabric was cut and carefully shaped in fit over the packed from. Through
the ages the packing was extended according to fashion, to the sleeves the shoulders,
even to the stomach area. The padded under structure provided what was considered
to be the improvements ever the contours of the body it also enabled the garment
fabric to lie mealy, relatively unaffected by the body’s wrinkle movements.
The construction techniques developed to create these structured garments were
quite different from those used to produce shirts and dresses . by the sixteenth
century the makers of men’s jackets had formed a separate branch of the clothing
makers guilt’s, complete with precise specifications for the quality and color of
packing materials and linings for gentlemen’s silk brocade jackets. By the late
seventeenth century women’s fashion began to be influenced by the man tailored
coat, tailors were presented with the new challenger of adapting their craft to
feminine from and fancy.
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 Not unit the early nineteenth century did careful fit become a criterion of well-
tailored garments the under structure remained, but the shaping became more subtle,
its purpose now being to complement rather than to distort the natural lines of the
body . great attention was also given to the flawless lay of the garment fabric over
the canvas form. The lapel was to roll gracefully open at the chest, without pulling
the garment forward, away from the body all edge of the jacket were to belief the
existence of the several layers of fabric beneath, by being flat and sharp, without
noticeably bulk. The collar, and all curved edges of the garment were to incline
slightly inward toward the body which causes a graceful avoidance of the awkward
upward curl of collar tips and pocket flaps pockets were never to gape open when
not in use. And vents were expected to lie that and firm. The result was a clean
definition of design lines, a controlled yet graceful presentation of the garment fabric,
impeccable fit, form and detail.
Today’s tailors continue to practice their art almost exactly as it was practiced
a century ago. Not because slower is necessarily better, but because these methods
produce body and form, detail and durability which newer, faster methods of
tailoring are simply unable to equal.

5.4 Measurement Techniques

5.4.1 Measurements
Proper instruments are necessary for making good drillings and proper patterns.
A number of measurement charts are available for making paper patterns. They are
all based on anthropometric surveys (body measurement surveys). These surveys
have been conducted in the advanced countries and not in India.
For making the drafting or pattern making of a particular person, body
measurements have to be taken. Points to remember while taking body measurements
are.
Correct standing position in erect posture
Persons should be wearing well fitted garments.
Tell the person to take a deep breath to allow some ease
While taking round measurements make sure that the tape is parallel to the and
is not sagging down.
The procedure for taking body measurements is as follows.

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 Waist length : from highest point of shoulder over the bust point to the waist
Round bust : round measurement taken over the fullest part of bust in front and
over the lower part of shoulder blacks in back.
Round waist : round measurement taken closely but not tightly around the waist.
Across shoulders : from arms eye to arms eye at the top of the shoulder across
the neck.
Pivot point : From highest point of shoulder to the bust point.
Round Hips : Measure around the vides part of hips with two fingers inside the
tape
Overarm Length : Bend the arm keeping the hand at the waist and measure by
passing through.
Underarm Length : From armpit to wrist, measured on straight arm and not on
bent arm.
Round Elbow : Measurement taken round the elbow with arm
Round Wrist : Measurement taken round the wrist

5.4.2 The Concept of Wearing Ease

Fitted garments are not made on exact body measurements. Some amount of
wearing ease is essential, it is an allowance that makers a garment comfortable to the
wearer. Ease varies according to the looseness desired at different parts of the body.

5.4.3 Tools and Equipment

The following tools and equipments are essential from the pattern making and
garment construction point of view.
Working Surface : A flat surface is required. Ideality it should be 90-92 cm.
high.
Paper : Strong brown paper is used for patterns. Parchment or win card should
be used for blocks that are used frequently
Pencils : use hare pencils for drafting problems (2H), and colored pencils to
outlining complicated areas.
Fiber Pens : For writing clear instruments patterns.
Bent Handle Shears : these shears are designed for the most convenient and

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careful cutting of fabric in use. The handle bents up and away from the cutting
surface while the blade is allowed to slide along the surface without disturbing the
layout of the fabric. A 10 (25.4 cm.) to 12 (30.5 cm.) pair will handle most of the
tailoring needs . fine shears will give best service if they are oiled and sharpened
when necessary, and if they are not used to cut materials other than fabric.
Thread Snips : Small, sharp. Pointed scissors are used for easy access to small
areas, and for cutting threads.
Clay Tailor’s Chalk : while clay chalk is used for marking pattern information
into the garment fabric. The edge of the chalk should be sharpened before use, for
a clean, fine line. Clay chalk can be brushed away easily when no longer needed.
However, avoid pressing on top of the chafe marks. As this will make removal more
difficult, Darker colored chalks are used for markings on interfacings.
Tape measure : Tape measure is necessary for taking body measurements.
Available with inches printed on one side and centimeters on the other Special tape
measures are also available for taking the inseam measurement for trousers. These
tape measures have cardboard stiffening at one end. The cardboard, and not the
tailors hand can be placed at the top of the seam for measuring Plastic, rather than
cloth tape measures should be purchased since those made of cloth are inclined to
shrink.
Ruler : Flexible, plastic see through rulers are very convenient for measuring
curved areas on patterns and fabric, as well as for flat surfaces. Do keep them away
from the iron.
Hip Curve Ruler : It is a gracefully curved ruler essential for making and
adjusting pattern lines
Straight Pins : Either dressmaker pins, which are of medium thickness, or silk
pins, which are somewhat thinner are appropriate for tailoring needs.
Basting Thread : while cotton thread #40 - #50, easy to break for removal when
necessary
General Sewing Thread : Mercerized cotton thread, slid thread, is suitable for
both hand and machine stitching.
Rubber, Metric ruler, Curved ruler, Meter stick
Set Square : A large setsquare with a 45 degree angle is very useful, metric
grading squares can be obtained with this equipment.
Metric Tape Measure, Tracing Wheel
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 Shears : Use separate shears for cutting cloth and paper, as cutting paper will
blunt the blades, Sell tape, Pins
One –Quarter and one –fifth Scale Squares : These are essential for students
to record pattern blocks and adaptations in their notebooks.

Stanley Knife
Tailor’s Fabrics : Calico is used for making toile’s for designs in woven fabrics.
Make sure the weight of the calico is as close to the weight of the cloth as possible
knitted fabric of the same stretch quality must be used for making toile’s for designs
in jersey fabrics

Metric Square
Calculator : The calculator is now a common tool in all areas of skill ;
French Curves : Plastic shapes and curves ;
Pattern Notched, Pattern Punch, Pattern Hooks, Pattern Weights, Model Strands,
Computer Equipment

5.5 Figure Measurement

5.5.1 Direct Measurement
The following are standard measurements taken by tailors, and used by them to
draft patterns, while will fit their clients as closely and as comfortable as possible .
in conjunction with the measurements, the tailor also notes important information
about the client’s body : whether her posture is stooped or overly erect. Whether her
shoulders are square or sloped, whether her bust and buttocks are full or flat, whether
her stomach protrudes. Whether one hip or one shoulder is higher than the other etc.

5.5.2 Taking Measurements

The first five measurements are taken over the best fitting jacket the client has
available . don’t be concerned if the jacket is not a perfect fit. You will have an
opportunity to improve the fit during the measurements and the muslin fatling.
1. Centre back/Neck to waist : With the jacket collar up, measure from the
collar seam to the waist at centre back.
2. Centre back Neck to hip : with the tape measure touching the body at the

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 waist measure from the collar seam to the hip level . of course the length of
your jacket depends on the style you have chosen. Take your measurement
to the hip level as a point of reference : for adjustments in the muslin fitting.
3. Back : At about centre armhole lever, measure across the back from the
armhole seam to the centre back seam.
4. Shoulder : Measure the shoulder seam from collar seam to armhole seam.
5. Sleeve Length : Measure the sleeve from the shoulder seam to the hem fold
taking into consideration the slight rise of the sleeve over the shoulder pad.
6. Bust Level : Measure around the body at the fullest part of the bust. This
measurement can be taken over a blouse, but not a sweater. Check that the
tape measure is at the same level at the back as in the front. The measure-
ment should be comfortable, neither too loose nor too light.
7. Bust Level : Measure from the shoulder (about 1* (2.5 cm.) from the base
of the neck down to the centre of the bust. Be aware that this measurement
can change significantly depending on the bra that is worn. Therefore, the
type of bra that will usually be worn under the jacket should be worn for this
measurement.
8. Waist : The waist measurement can be taken over a blouse but not over a
skill waistband or a belt. The measurement should be comfortable but
without additional ease .
9. Hip Level : Measure down from the waist at the seam, to the level at which
the hips are fullest.
10. Hips : The hip measurement can be taken over an unbulky straight skirt or
trousers. The pockets, if any, should be empty and the clients feet should be
together. With two fingers under the tape for ease, measure around the fullest
part of the hip,
11. Skirt Length : Measure down from the waist at the side seam, to the desired
length of the skirt.
12. The Fly : Measure the fly from what would be the top of the waist banc,
down to the beginning of the curve of the crutch .
13. Pants Inseam : With the pants waistline at a comfortable level for the client,
measure the pants inseam from the crotch to the middle of the shoe.
14. Pants Out seam : With the pants waistline at a comfortable level for the
client measure down the out seam from the top of the waistband to the
middle of the shoe.

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 15. Knee Width : Measure across the knee of the pants from crease to crease.
16. Width of Pants at Hem : Measure across the bottom edge of the pants leg
from crease to crease.

5.5.3 Size coded and Associated Body Measurements

Size Codes Body Measurements Hips Body Measurements Bust
From To From To
cm. cm. cm. cm.
8 83 87 78 82
10 87 91 82 86
12 91 95 86 90
14 95 99 90 94
16 100 104 95 99
18 105 109 100 104
20 110 114 105 109
22 115 119 110 114
24 120 124 115 119
26 125 129 120 124
28 130 134 125 129
30 135 139 130 134
32 140 144 135 139

5.5.4 Women of Medium Hight 160 cm. - 170 cm. (5Ft 21/2in - 6Ft 1/2 in)
Size Symbol 8 16 24
Bust 80 97 117
Waist 60 77 97
Hips 85 102 122
Back Width 32.4 36.6 41.4
Chest 30 35 41
Shoulder 11.75 12.8 14
Neck Size 35 39.2 44
Dart 5.8 8.2 10.6

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 Top Arm 26 31 37.8
Wrist 15 17 19
Ankle 23 25.1 27.5
High Ankle 20 22.1 24.5
Nape to Waist 39 41 43
From Shoulder to Waist 39 41.3 44.5
Armhole Depth 20 22 24.2
Waist to Knee 57.5 59.5 61,25
Waist to Hip 20 21.2 22.3
Waist to Floor 102 106 109.5
Body Rice 26.6 29.4 32.5
Sleeve Length 57.2 59.5 61.2
Sleeve Length (Jersey) 51.2 53.5 55.2
The chart is compiled for High Street Fashion garments
Small = approx size 8 – 10
Medium = size 12
Large = approx size 14 – 16
XLarge = size 18

Example 1 :
SMALL MEDIUM LARGE XLARGE
92-96 100-104 108-112 116-120
Chest 96 104 112 120
Or,
Example 2 :
SMALL MEDIUM LARGE XLARGE
88-92 96-100 104-108 112-116
Chest 92 100 108 116
Body Measurement Chart for Small Medium Large – Xlarge Sizes
The six chart offered below uses the range of Example 2 shown above. It is
useful for the younger unisex (athletic) market and has some height

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5.5.5 Differential in the larger sizes

Chest Size Between SMALL MEDIUM LARGE XLARGE

Chest 92 100 108 116
Seat 94 102 110 118
Natural Waist 75 83 91 99
Trouser waist
(4cm. below Natural Waist) 78 86 94 102
Half Back 19 20 21 22
Natural Waist Length 44 44.8 45.6 46.4
Scye Depth 23 24.6 26.2 27.8
Neck Size (Easy Fitting) 39 41 43 45
Sleeve Length One Piece Sleeve 64 65 66 67
Sleeve Length Two Piece Sleeve 80 82 84 88
Inside Leg 79 81 83 85
Body Rise 27.5 28.5 29.5 30.5
Close Wrist Measurement 16.8 17.6 18.4 19.2

5.6 Terms of Pattern Making

5.6.1 Pattern Making Terms
The following terms and definitions are related to the workroom
Pattern drafting : A system of pattern making that is depends on measurements
takes from a form or model to cleat basic. Foundation, or design patterns. An
example is the draft to the basic pattern set
Flat patternmaking : A system of patternmaking that is dependent on
previously developed patterns. In flat patternmaking the patterns are manipulated by
using a slash or pivotal method to create design patterns.
Basic pattern set : A five piece pattern set, consisting of front and back bodice
and skirt and long sleeve, which represents the dimensions of a specific form of
figure it is developed without design features. The traced copy is referred to as a
working pattern.
Working pattern : Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating
design patterns.
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5.6.2 Pattern Production Terms
First Patterns : The original pattern developed for each design. This pattern is
generally made from marking paper and usually requires fitting and adjustments half
a pattern is developed unless the design is asymmetrical.
Production Pattern : The production pattern is a pattern set that has been
corrected and perfected and contains every pattern piece required to complete the
garment it is used by the grader for grading sizes, and by the marker maker for a
fabric layout.
Marker maker : The marker makers responsibility is to lay the production
pattern on marking paper so that there is little waste of fabric. Pattern sizes are often
mixed on the marker to prevent waste. The maker is either pencil marked, photo
marked, or marked on a computer system. We have discussed lay plans extensively
in block iii unit 1.
Pattern grader : The grader proportionately increases and decreases the size of
an original pattern within a size range (referred to as the pattern grade) . the grade
is in the length, width, and circumference grading is done using one of the following
tools.
Dario Grading Machine : Purchase through Veccharelli Bros. PO Box 15443,
Los Angles, CA90015
Computer Accomack 100 and 200 : Offered by Gerber Computer Company
Grading ruler : the grading ruler and text can be purchased by contacting
Eleanor Davis, 1128 Lafayette St. San Gabriel, CA 91776 (Convenient for classroom
or the designing room)
Pattern marker maker : A marker is a length of paper containing a copy of all
pattern pieces to be cut at one time . all patterns are interlocked and aligned on the
marker paper so that when cut, the grain lines will be parallel to the selvage of the
fabric. The completed marker is placed on top of layers of fabric as a guide for the
other. There are three methods for making markers.
1. A pattern marker maker fracas each pattern on marker paper
2. Patterns re photographed (photo marking) on paper as a conveyor belt carries
the patterns under a camera.
3. A computer system will miniaturized copies of the original pattern used in
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 the lay-up process houses the information in its memory bank until needed
(AccuMarkTM 200 and 500 systems).
Pattern Cutter : After the marker is made and laid on top of the layers of fabric,
the garments are cut by the cutter or by a computer cutting machine.
High – ply cutter : Up to three inches of compressed fabric can be consistently
and accurately cut using a high effienciency vacuum hold-down system.

5.6.3 Pattern Development Systems

Design patterns can be generated through pattern manipulation by hand, or with
the use of computer systems called PDS (pattern development system) , CAD
(computer aided design), and PAD (pattern aided design) . computer companies offer
several methods for pattern generation.
Accomack Silhouette is an innovative concept designed to enhance the sills,
experience and capabilities of the patternmaker Designed are free to apply their
instinctive talents individual techniques and preferred tools to patterns. Excellent for
copying ready made designs.

5.6.4 Pattern Design System

Micro Mark PDS : The system provides the following functions. Pattern drafting
and design, pattern modification, style changes and others.

5.7 Cost Sheet

A cost sheet is a complete record to each design and is used to cost the garment
and establish the wholesale price. The top part of the form (items 1 and 2) is
completed in the design room. It should include the names and telephone numbers
of salesperson fabric and from companies. As well as fabric swatches, a sketch and
special pattern information or instructions. A blank copy is included in the back of
the book for duplicating.
The original copy is for the manufacturer or production person, who completes
the lower part (items 3 and 4) and marks yardage. This provides the manufacturer
with information required for production. A duplicate kept in the design room for
quick reference makes for fewer interruptions in the design department.

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DRAFTING FOR DIFFERENT GARMENTS

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5.8 Summary
In this unit, we have learnt about the concept of pattern making and garments
production here, we have learnt about the block pattern, garment pattern, pattern
design system and patterns generation systems. Then we have learnt about the
historical background of the pattern making and garment production. Then we got
acquainted with the technical skills required in pattern making and garment
construction, where we learnt about the theory of wearing ease. Then we learnt about
the technical skills required in making up. Next, we got familiar with the tools and
equipments required for pattern making and garment construction. Then we learnt
how to measure figures and take measurements. Then we learnt about the sizing
systems, standard body measurement, and various sizes of women’s garments and
fashion information. And finally we discussed about the pattern construction process
– where we learnt about the basic blocks, block patterns, seam allowances etc.

5.9 References
An introduction to pattern making – G. Coockiln

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5.10 Assessment
1. Briefly discuss about the concept of pattern making and garment production.
2. Write short notes on—
A) Block pattern
B) Garment pattern
C) Pattern design and generation system
3. Discuss about the historical background of the pattern making and garment
production.
4. How to measure figure and take measurement?
5. What do you know about the sizing system?

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