CHAPTER:2

Pattern making
PATTERN:
Pattern is a replica on which the individual components of garments are copied or the paper or
cardboard templates from which the parts of garments are traced onto fabric before cutting out
and assembling (sometimes it is called paper pattern). On the other Words , The making of exact
image of each part or component of a Garment in a hard board paper is called pattern.

AIMS OF PATTERN MAKING:

1. To sketch the parts primarily according to the body on paper.

2. To make pattern for different size by increasing measurements.
3. To make a marker for large-scale production.
4. To use these patterns made by standard body measurement for many times.
5. Developing the skill of designing fashionable garment.
6. Understand, analyse and apply principle and elements of design related to textile garment.
7. Use the pattern making and grading techniques.
8. Finally to save time and money to make fast and cheaper production.

CONTENTS OF PAPER PATTERN:

• Style number
• Size ratio
• Parts name
• Grain line

Pattern Making Depends on :

• Personal Skill
• Technical & Technological Knowledge
• Sense of Design & Analytical capability
• Experience of Garments making.
• Experience of Pattern Making.
PRODUCT PACKAGE: A sheet or group of sheet which is required to make a particular
style of garment is called product package. It includes:

• Design
• Measurement chart
• List of accessories
• List of consumption of fabric
• Position of accessories
• Size ratio
• Packing instruction

Pattern making terms:

The following terms and definitions are related to the workroom.

Pattern drafting
A system of pattern making that depends on measurements taken from a form or
model to create basic, foundation, or design patterns. An example is the draft of the
basic pattern set.

Basic pattern
The pattern is made in accordance with the area of different part of the human
body, their flexes & folds without allowance & style.

Working pattern
Any pattern used as a base for manipulation when generating design patterns.

Production pattern
The production pattern is a pattern set that has been corrected and perfected and
contains every pattern piece require to complete the garment. It is used by the
grader for grading.

Types of Pattern Used in Clothing Sector:

There are mainly two types of patterns used in readymade apparel sector which
mentioned in the below:
1. Basic block or block pattern,
2. Working pattern or apparel pattern.

Pattern Making Tools &Materials:

To work efficiently the pattern maker must have the proper tools & supplies .To communicate
effectively in the workroom & to minimize errors due to misunderstanding the pattern maker
should know & understand the terminology .Mostly the following tools are used as a Pattern
making tools in Apparel Industry :
• Straight Pin: For Draping & Fitting this tool is used.
• Straight pin Holder: pincushion or magnetic holders are used.
• Scissors: Paper Scissor & Fabric Scissor are used .
• Pencils & Pens: Mechanical Pencil & Sharpener. Red & Blue color Pencils are used to
identify the changes in pattern.
• Rulers : >36inch Ruler , >18*2 Plastic Rule ( for measuring Curves) , > Tailors
• Square : >Triangle with measurements to square lines.
• Curve Rulers: > French Curve Ruler is used for shaping arm hole & Neck line.
• Hip Curve ruler: Shapes hipline, hem & Others. Vary from Curve, Blends, Shapes
armhole neck line.
• Hanger hooks or Ringers: To hold pattern together for hanging on rods.
• Push Pins: For pattern Manipulations & Prevent Pattern Slipping while cutting .
• Mend pattern Scotch Tape: To mend pattern.
• Black twill Tape: For placement of styles on form or garments.
• Metal weight.
• Measuring tape
• Tailors chalk
 • Notches : >Seam allowances >Center lines >Ease & gather Tools > Placement of Pockets
>Dart Legs > Identification different Parts . > Zipper Placements >Dart In take >Shoulder
tip for extended shoulders

METHODS OF PATTERN PAPER CONSTRUCTION:

• Manual pattern paper construction

• Computer aided pattern paper construction.

MANUAL PATTERN PAPER CONSTRUCTION: Pattern draft is a diagrammatic

representation of the way a garment is constructed. The pattern draft is geared towards a specific
cutting system. The objective is to develop a set of templates for the cutting room to use. The
pattern draft is developed by calculation, taking account of the following measurement.

• Actual size measurement

 • Size chart related to the end use
• Anthrometric studies (measurement made on human body)
• Ease allowance
• Other allowance(Seam allowance, allowance for styling)

To develop garment pattern using size charts, allowance must be applied to the body dimension.
This will depend on the style of garment and the type of fabric to be used. For stable in woven
fabric and loose in knitted fabrics space must be provided between garment and body to allow
for movement and changes in body dimension.

COMPUTER AIDED PATTERN CONSTRUCTION: In practice the development

of a new collection is usually effected by appropriate modification of existing stock design.
These are basic pattern constructed from appropriate body measurement but without any styling
features. This time consuming is made considerably easier and faster through the use of CAD
system.

The basic pattern must first be digitized but once this is done, they can be retrieved from the
computer. Displayed on the screen modified at any time. Thus the whole shape can be adjusted,
lines can be deleted or extended, lines and points can be superimposed. Hence the parts can be
rotated and moved. The results can be saved in a range of sizes. The procedure is first becoming
standard practice in the industry.

PATTERN MAKING STEPS:

There are so many steps are available for making pattern. Among them two steps are in use for
making pattern given below:
• Block pattern or Basic block
• Working pattern or garments pattern

PROCEDURE OF MAKING BLOCK PATTERN:

1. Block pattern or Basic block:

It is the individual component of garments without any design or style. It is produced by
maintaining exact dimension of standard body measurement where no allowance is considered.
It is made by two types:
a) Flat method
b) Modeling

a) Flat method:
In the method different parts of garments i.e. body, sleeve and so on are made by technical
drawing. In the technical drawing body measurement and application of method depends on
pattern maker. This can be made by computer programming in which pre-determined and pre-
fashioned in formation are stored to support various styles.

b) Modeling:
It is primary and ancient method of pattern making. It is widely used still now in garments
industry. Block is made adjusting the measurement with a statue which is generally named as
"Toile". Calico fabric is worn on the body of "Toile" and then it is, taken off and placed over the
flat space to take the dimension and to make the pattern. It is drawn on hard paper. It is a time
consuming method.
2. Working or garments pattern:
Garments pattern is made on the basic of block. Individual block pattern are drawn on hard paper
or mount board. Alternate i.e. Seam allowances, trimming allowances, center front line center
back line, button hole, dart, pleat and so on are considered. U or V notches are marked for the
ape addition of the components and proper alignment on the seam line. Grain lines are shown
over the pattern. After drawing each components are separated from the board by knife or
scissor. Individual parts name size, style number are also marked over it. Sample garments are
made from this pattern.

DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BLOCK PATTERN AND WORKING

PATTERN:

Block pattern Working pattern

1. It is made according to the ideal 1. It is made according to the exact

measurement of the body. measurement of a body.

2. No allowance is considered. 2. Seam allowance, trimming allowance, are

considered.

3. Individual components can’t be separated. 3. Individual components of the body can be

separated.

4. No indication of grain line. 4. There is indication of grain line in a

working pattern.
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN WORKING PATTERN AND PRODUCTION
PATTERN:

Working pattern Production pattern

1. Sample garment is made by this pattern. 1. Production garments or more garments is

made.

2. This pattern is made on the basis of basic 2.Not basic block or on the basis working
block. pattern

Principle of pattern Making for Pant & Shirts:

Practical Experiment done in Lab.

PATTERN GRADING:

Grading means stepwise increase or decrease of master pattern pieces to create larger or smaller
pieces. The starting point can be smallest size or the middle size. Grading alters the overall sizes
of a design but not its general shape and design.

METHODS OF PATTERN GRADING

In the apparel manufacturing basic pattern grading methods are mainly divided into 2 types.
They are
• Manual pattern grading or two dimensional grading.
• Computer-aided pattern grading or three dimensional grading.

1. Manual pattern grading:

The desired range of sizes is created, one by one, using a pattern template. Marks are made
around the master pattern at the appropriate distances and the marks the later joined up to form
the enlarge pattern. Now-a-days manual pattern grading methods are classified in 2 ways. These
are mentioned and shortly describe in below:
a. Cut and Spread
b. Pattern Shifting

a. Cut and Spread:

Cut and Spread grading method are starts by the use of tracing and marking techniques from the
original master pattern to a white paper. Ensure that all the marking lines like grain line, darts are
visible here. In this method original patterns are cut vertically into 3 parts and spread the cutting
pieces by a specific amount to grade up. Then overlap them to grade down. To do this process,
only scissors, a pencil, measurement tape, and a ruler is required.

b. Pattern Shifting:
Pattern shifting is another process of pattern grading. When pattern or fashion designer want to
increase or decrease the overall dimensions of a pattern to get different sizes is called pattern
shifting. To make the pattern larger, transfer the original pattern onto another sheet of paper. To
make it smaller, they will have to trim the edges to the desired dimensions. It is done by moving
the master pattern a certain measured distance up and down and left and right using a special
designed ruler. To get the same result as the cut and spread method designer redraw the outlines.

2. Computer-aided pattern grading:

Computed grading (CAD) is the fastest pattern grading techniques. But when it first came, it was
only used by larger fashion or apparel manufacturers for their production process. Now CAD is
more affordable software. By this method every manufacturer’s get more accurate, precise,
detailed patterns in a short time.

Computer based grading systems operate in one of two ways:

• The grading increments are feed into the computer and the different sizes are generated
automatically using the same methods as applied for manual grading.
• The pattern for each individual size is calculated separately starting from the data in the
size specification charts

The resulting nest of patterns can be displayed to scale on the computer monitor for visual
assessment and if necessary, adjustment. In a fully automated system, the garment parts will be
sorted automatically and arranged into a lay plan which can then be transmitted in the form of a
control program to the automatic laying and cutting system. Alternatively, the patterns can be
sent to a large plotting device where they will be drawn at full scale to serve as paper patterns for
manual cutting. The patterns can also be used in an automatic device for cutting templates from
more durable material.