Handloom in Odisha: An Overview: Shruti Sudha Mishra
Handloom in Odisha: An Overview: Shruti Sudha Mishra
Handloom in Odisha: An Overview: Shruti Sudha Mishra
Professor
Dept. of Business Administration,
Sambalpur University, Odisha, India.
akdm@suniv.ac.in
Abstract
Handloom is an ancient cottage industry. In Odisha hand-woven fabrics have existed since beyond the
reach of memory. This sector involves large number of artisans from rural and semi-urban areas, most of
which are women and people from economically disadvantaged groups. Some of the strengths of this
industry are availability of cheap and abundant labour, use of local resources, low capital investment,
unique craftsmanship in manufacturing of the products and increasing appreciation by international
consumers. It is important to note that despite such unique characteristics, the industry comprises a
meager proportion of Indian exports in global market, thus calling for efforts to promote and channelize
the offerings of the industry to tap its hidden potential. Therefore the present study has been undertaken
with an aim to discuss the history of handloom in context to Odisha, its cultural importance, and
contribution of handloom to the economic development of the weaving community of Odisha.
*****
1: Introduction
The glory and cultural vastness of Indian handloom industry has always been a topic of great discussion.
Among all the beautiful handlooms having their regional importance, Odisha handloom is the one chosen
for the present study. This study has been undertaken with an aim to discuss the history of handloom in
context to Odisha, its cultural importance, and contribution of handloom to the economic development of
the weaving community of Odisha.
Textile of Odisha is a reflection of its cultural ethos with intricate weaves giving it an identity of its own.
The thread work, motifs and vibrant colours make them rich and desirable to wear and flaunt by the
admirers. ‘Odisha Ikat’ also known as “Bandha of Odisha”, is a resist dyeing technique. Since 2007, the
“Bandha of Odisha” has been geographically identified. It is a process of tie-dying the wrap and weft
threads, so that designs on the loom prior to weaving can be created. Because of its design process, it has
been called “poetry on loom”. This process of weaving has remained speciality of Western and Eastern
region of Odisha, produced by community groups called Bhulia, Kostha Asni and Patara. In western
Odisha it is woven in Barapalli, Remunda, Jhiliminda, Mahalkata, Singhpalli, Sonepur, Patabhadi,
Sgarpali, Tarabha, Birmaharajpur, Subalaya, Kendupali, Jaganathpali and Kamalapur of Bargarh and
Sonepur district, are some of the prominent ones where these art of weaving is practised. Some of the
popular designs are:
1. Sambalpuri Ikkat – Reflecting the bandha style of craft. Sambalpuri fabrics range from geometric
patterns to landscape, potrates and other motifs such as sankha(shell), chakra(wheel) and variety of
phula(flower).
2. Bomkai Cottan – Woven by the adept artisans of Sonepur districts, Bomkai is a handloom fabric that
has an attached GI tag and is also called the “Sonepuri” fabric. Bomkai sarees are quite popular among
connoisseurs and are must-haves for an enviable saree collection.
3. Berhampuri Paata – Also called “Phoda Kumbha”, Berhampuri Paata too boasts of a GI tag and is
famous for its temple shaped designs along the border and pallu portion. This paata has another
distinction; it is draped around Lord Jagannath, Lord Balabhadra and Devi Subhadra in Puri Jagannath
Temple.
4. Khandua Paata – Khandua paata is noted for the text of Gita Govinda eteched on it. Traditionally red
or orange in colour, this colour are procured naturally from sal trees. This fabric too, is a registered GI
and originated in Cuttack and Maniabandha.
5. Kotpad Cotton – Woven by the tribes of Kotpad village in Koraput, this fabric with a GI tag is
renowned for being dyed organically. Vegetables are used to obtain the required colours with black
and maroon being the major dyes.
6. Habaspuri – Kondha weavers of Chicheguda in Kalahandi district interwine magic with Habaspuri,
one of the major cotton-based textiles of Odisha with fish, flower and temple motifs. It has also been
registered under GI.
7. Saptapar/Pasapali – Celebrated for its prominent double ikat checkerboard pattern. Saptapar is
famously known as “Pasapalli”, attributed to Bargarh district in Odisha. An intricate pasaa
(chessboard) pattern in contrasting colour is its most striking feature.
Western Odisha extends from the Kalahandi district in the South to the Sundargarh district in the north-
west. Districts of Sambalpur, Bargarh, Nuapada, Bolangir and Sonepur are also included in Western
Odisha. Its boundless geographical area, showcase a great degree of cultural importance among the mass.
The traditional Sambalpuri saree in its cotton and silk versions is a captivating fabric from the tribal belt
of Odisha. Sambalpur- in the state of Odisha, India is famous for its Sambalpuri variety of cotton and silk
sarees, using Ikat patterns or the tie-dye method in their making. The fabric silk has lustre, strength,
smoothness and soft feel, plus its elasticity and desirable quality to acquire most colours and shades
making it all the more appealing. Silk is soft, smooth, airy and very comfortable for all-day wear, apart
from the grandeur that it provides. The Sambalpuri saree is made from cotton, silk, or tussar woven on a
handloom. It is very popular among saree lovers across the country. Varieties of Sambalpuri saree
includes Sonepuri, Saptapar (pasapalli), Sachipar, Udiaan-taraa, Panchavati, Bomkai, Barpalli, Baptaa
and Paradaa sarees, all of which are popular. These sarees are named after their place of origin and
commonly known as “Paata”. Paintings on tussar saris portray Mathura Vijay, Rasallila and Ayodhya
Vijay get their inspiration from Raghurajpur Pattachitra paintings. A unique method of tie-dye known as
“Bandha” is used to weave Sambalpuri sarees. These saree’s possesses fast colours; therefore, the older is
the saree brighter is the colour. Apart from sarees western Odisha handloom also showcase some
masterpiece in form of bed sheets, dhotis and dress materials.
Rural Economic Development is a sub set of development. Development means opening up something
which is latent. Generally the term development implies a change that is desirable. But the desirableness
depends on time, place, culture and societal objectives. It is impossible to think of a universally
acceptable definition of development. The term rural development means overall development of rural
areas, to improve the quality of life of rural people. It includes the development of agriculture and allied
activities, village and cottage industries, socioeconomic infrastructure, community services and facilities
and the human resources in rural areas. It is a multidimensional concept. This term may be used as a
phenomenon, as a strategy and as a discipline. Whatever it may be, for true meaning of rural
development, at least three basic elements should be considered. These are:
1. Basic necessities of life – It includes food, clothes, shelter, basic literacy, health care, etc.
2. Self respect – Absence of self respect indicates lack of development.
3. Freedom – It includes political freedom, economic freedom and freedom from slavery.
In a nut shell we may say that, rural development is a continuous process leading to sustainable
improvement in the quality of life of rural people, especially the poor.
The primary economic activity in the rural areas is mostly Agriculture. And it is also true that agriculture
alone is not sufficient to improve the overall development of the state’s economy in general and in
particular rural areas. Many economists and social scientists argue in favour of the development of labor
intensive industries, more specifically rural cottage industries along with the development of agriculture.
Handloom is one of the labour intensive industries and capital employed in this industry is low. More
significantly it is true that these industries are run by the weaker section of the society. They are able to
operate in a productive and profitable way if some measures are taken from the part of central and state
government. Handloom sector plays an important role in the Indian economy in the context of
employment generation and the economic development of India. Handloom units are also very important
for welfare resources. People can organize these units to increase their income levels and quality of life.
So these can help in reducing poverty in the state. According to the 4th All India Handloom Census, the
total number of households in Odisha engaged in handloom activities (weaving and allied activities) is
63,223. This is an increase over the 3rd All India Handloom Census where the count was 41,000 (shown
in Figure 1). The principal reason behind this increase may be attributed to the success of various
initiatives undertaken by the Government of Odisha.
10000
0
2009-10 2019-20
A broad profile of the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn hereunder (a) by type of workers, (b)
by nature of engagement, (c) by gender, and (d) by social groups as discussed below
As per All India Handloom Census 3rd and 4th, Figure 2 shows the number of adult handloom workers
based on the type of work they are involved in, i.e., weaving activities and allied activities. During
2009-10 number of weavers in Odisha was 49,022 which increased to 53,472 during 2019-20. Again
during 2009-10 number of allied workers was 54,136 which increased to 64,364 during 2019-20. This
shows that there is an increase of handloom weaving activity in the state.
Figure 2: Distribution of adult handloom workers by type of workers
70000 64364
60000 53472 54136
49022
50000
40000
2009-10
30000
2019-20
20000
10000
0
Weavers Allied Workers
100000 87092
77556
80000 Distribution of Handloom
Workers by Nature of
60000
Engagement 2009-10
40000 25602 30744
Distribution of Handloom
20000 Workers by Nature of
0 Engagement 2019-20
Full Time Part Time
(c) By gender:
Handloom is family activity where every members of the family are involved in the weaving and
allied activities. Figure 4 shows the distribution of total handloom population based on gender. In
2019-20 it could be noted that Government of India included transgender into their survey. In Odisha
there are 29 transgender involved in weaving activities. Here is also an increase in the number of
male and female weavers from 2009-10 to 2019-20.
60167
57640
70000
52004
51154
60000 Distribution of Total
Population of
50000
Handloom Weaver
40000 Households by
30000 Gender 2009-10
Distribution of Total
20000 Population of
10000 Handloom Weaver
29
Households by
0
Gender 2019-20
Male Female Transgender
45000
33472
40000
35000
Distribution
30000
of Handloom
25000 Worker
20000 Households
9439
7936
15000
5512
by Social
4264
1286
5000 10
0
Other Backward Scheduled Caste Scheduled Tribe Others
Caste (OBCs) (SCs) (Sts)
35000
25962
27129
33318
22132
21581
20564
30000
18978
18162
25000
12110
20000 Distribution of
Adult
7376
7192
15000
Handloom
3157
2160
10000
1159
Workers by
5000 Level of
0 Education (No.
of Weavers)
2009-10
80.00%
54.78%
69.27%
70.00%
60.00%
27.26%
Distribution of
24.46%
50.00%
Handloom
13.07%
40.00%
9.94%
30.00% Workers by
4.76%
0.27%
0.08%
0.02%
0.04%
20.00% Employment
10.00% Status 2009-10
0.00%
In the above Figure 9 the employment status of the weavers showed maximum number of weavers
working independently. Other than this another form of institution that is prominent is the Co-
operative society. Figure 10 shows the 27,135 households are members of co-operative societies,
which have increased from 19,661 during 2009-10. This shows the importance of co-operative
structure in the State. One of the largest co-operative society in the state is Sambalpuri Bastralaya
Handloom Co-operative Society Ltd. Still membership in cooperative societies, which can protect the
rights of weavers and facilitate access to development programs, is low.
30000
25000
20000
15000 Member of Co-operative
27135
10000 19661 Societies
5000
0
2009-10 2019-20
The economic profile of the handloom household is of special interest, as it highlights the feasibility of
handloom work as an economic activity in the current situation, and highlights areas where the
government needs to step in to support the occupation and economic needs of the workers. A broad
profile of the handloom workers in Odisha has been drawn here under (a) by income from all sources per
month, (b) by purpose for taking loan, and (c) by major sources of loan as discussed below:
Figure 11: Distribution of handloom household by income from all sources per month
82.06%
90.00%
80.00%
70.00%
14.94%
60.00% Distribution of
50.00%
2.72%
handloom
0.18%
0.04%
0.03%
0.01%
0.01%
40.00%
30.00% household by
20.00%
10.00% income from
0.00%
all sources…
Figure 12: Indebtedness and their Distribution by Purpose for Taking Loans
Figure 13 shows that commercial institutions have always remained a prime source for extending
financial support to the weaving community. But it is important here to note that government source
of funding came into picture during 2019-20 which did not exist during 2009-10 census survey.
Other forces like SHGs and Co-operatives also came into forefront during 2019-20. These are good
indicators showing increased role of Institutions in providing financial assistance to the weaving
community. Another side of this survey shows decrease in overall number households in taking loan
from any sources, this implies that the slowly the weaving community is gaining financial stability
through handloom, as a primary economic activity.
3000
2474
Distribution of
2500 Handloom
Weaver
2000
1404
Households by
1500 Major Sources of
966
Loan (%) 2009-10
1000 Distribution of
418
Handloom
360
326
278
253
191
143
127
112
500 Weaver
58
20
18
14
Households by
0 Major Sources of
Loan (%) 2019-20
A detailed usage of looms and production of handloom products by the handloom workers in Odisha has
been drawn here under (a) by looms per household, (b) by type of loom, (c) by purpose of usage of loom,
(d) by average days worked per weaver and allied weaver, (e) by usage of various types of yarn, (f) by
production of major fabrics, and (g) by major source of sale:
Figure 14 shows the distribution of looms which has increased over the years. During 2009-10
number of working looms was 36,732, whereas in 2019-20 it became 43,935. Again in 2009-10 idle
looms was reported to be around 2845 but there is no record of idle looms in 2019-20. Instead it
shows in 2019-20 survey there were 2773 handloom households without loom. This could be due to
the unavailability of looms to these families who work as daily wage earners under other weavers.
50000 43935
40000 36732
Distribution of
Looms by
30000
Households 2009-
10
20000 Distribution of
Looms by
10000 Households 2019-
2845 2773
20
0
Working loom Idle loom Without loom
Figure 15 shows distribution of looms by type of loom used. As previously discussed there are many
type of looms. In India pit looms and frame looms are the most common type of looms used for
weaving. But in Odisha, pit looms are most common type of loom used by the weavers. From the
table it is clear that there is an increase in number of looms from 2009-10 to 2019-20.
16800
25000 of Looms by Type
20000 2009-10
Regional Distribution
9545
92
73
0 0
Pit Loom Frame Loom Pedal Loom Other
Figure 16 shows that during 2019-20 the purpose of looms were limited for commercial purpose only.
Whereas during 2009-10 looms were also used for domestic purpose. This implies that now looms are
fully commercialized, every finished product is weaved for the purpose of sale. This could be due to
increased market competition or increase in sale or increase in demand of handloom products.
50000
43935
33687
45000
40000
35000 Purpose of Usage
30000 (Looms) 2009-10
25000
20000 Purpose of Usage
15000 (Looms) 2019-20
2131
10000
914
5000
0
Commercial Domestic Both
As per All India Handloom Census, the average days of engagement in Odisha for weavers are 259
days and for allied workers it is 255 days. Whereas during 2009-10 it was 249 days for weavers and
for allied workers it was 222 days. Figure 17 shows the increase in number of working days. It can
be said that weaving is a continuous process, which needs lots of hard work and patience. According
to the reports a weaver weaves around 5.23 mtr of cloth on an average per day.
Figure 17: Distribution of handloom household by Average Days worked per weaver and allied
worker.
270
259
260 255
249
250
Average Days Per Weaver
240
230 222 Average Days Per Allied
220 Worker
210
200
2009-10 2019-20
Figure 18 shows the use of major yarns in production process and there increase in usage from 2009-
10 to 2019-20. It could be noted here that during 2019-20 survey, the use of Tussar silk, Viscose
Blends, Eri silk and others started, this shows diversification and customization of handloom
products, and increase in demand of the products.
30000
25000
16100
12035
20000
8504
8219
15000
7530
5338
3142
10000
1472
1346
969
967
706
657
376
214
141
5000
35
13
0
Cotton (1-20)
Cotton (21-40)
CottonCotton
(41-80)(above
Viscose
80)Blends
Muga SilkEri Silk
Mulberry
Others
Tussar
Silk(Wool,
Silk Zari, Polyester, Jute)
Figure 19 shows the major fabrics produced in the state. It can be seen that Saree is the major product
produced followed by Dhoti/Lungi/Angavastram and Dress materials/Suiting/Shirting. The increase in
number of household shows an increase in sale of the handloom product rather than the sale during 2009-
10
Figure 19: Distribution of Weavers households Producing Major Fabrics in the State
45000
38507
27076
40000
35000
30000
25000
20000
4075
3710
15000
2881
2151
1500
10000
632
358
330
292
223
186
132
47
35
5000
0
The sale of handloom products is the main concern point for every stake holder associated with the
handloom sector. Because of the intermediaries the profit margin of the weavers becomes less.
Therefore the less would be the number of intermediaries more will be the profit margin for the
weaver. Figure 20 shows maximum household are selling their products in local market and to
master weavers. This unregulated markets or Haats could not safe guard the interest of the weavers;
again master weavers take a lion share of the profit thus only giving a meager wage for the labour
that a weaver had put into the product. Other avenues like exhibition, e-commerce, and export needs
to be explored for a more globalised market and customers.
Figure 20: Distribution of handloom household by major source of Sale of their Major products
50.00
41.53
28.67
27.10
40.00
30.00
20.00
1.69
0.84
Distribution of
0.09
0.08
10.00
handloom
0.00
household by major
source of sales of…
3: Conclusion:
Handloom unit possess a tremendous potential to create large scale employment opportunities due to their
labour-absorbing character. As handloom units are labour intensive, these units have a scope for
employment in a massive scale. This is a great significance for the state like Odisha, which has labour
surplus economy.
Thus the paper purposefully deals with the economic status of the weaving community of the state. From
the discussion it is clear that over the decade the socio-economic condition of the weaving community has
improved being handloom as a primary economic activity. The contribution of handloom in developing
the economic condition of the weavers of Odisha and in particular Western Odisha has been large and
sustainable in a competitive market.
References
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http://www.fibre2fashion.com/news/textile-news/newsdetails.aspx?news_id=82291
http://www.parliamentofindia.nic.in/lsdeb/ls13/ses2/2422129902.htm