A REVIEW OF HANDLOOM EXPORT UNITS IN INDIA

Prof. (Dr.) Kuldeep Singh1 and Dr. Monica Bansal2

1

Principal, JCD Institute of Business Management Sirsa

Assistant Professor, Department of Commerce, Panjab University Rural Centre, Kauni

ABSTRACT
The Handloom sector plays a very important role in the countrys economy.
It is one of the largest economic activities providing direct employment to
over 65 lakh persons engaged in weaving and allied activities. As a result of
effective Government intervention through financial assistance and
implementation of various developmental and welfare schemes, this sector
has been able to withstand competition from the power loom and mill
sectors. This sector contributes nearly 19 percent of the total cloth produced
in the country and also adds substantially to export earnings. Handloom is
unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility, permitting experimentation and
encouraging innovations. The strength of Handloom lies in the introducing
innovative designs, which cannot be replicated by the Power loom sector.
Thus, Handloom forms a part of the heritage of India and exemplifies the
richness and diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers.

Keywords: Handloom, Power loom, Innovative Designs, Weavers, Khadi

and Village Industries
REVIEW OF HANDLOOM EXPORT UNITS IN INDIA
The handloom industry rolls its carpet back to the ancient times. The very first fragment of
Indian handloom was excavated from the parts of Egypt. After that, finely woven and dyed
cotton fabrics were found in Mohenjo-Daro (Indus Valley Civilization). There were some
more excavations that speak of the golden history of Indian handloom. In fact, traditional
handloom style has been one of the oldest forms. Even, the Vedic literature has mention of
Indian weaving styles. Apart from this, few examples are also seen in Buddhist era scripts
about the woolen carpets.
Prior to imperialism and colonization, all the natural fabrics (silk, cotton and jute) were
hand-woven and Khadi was among the prevalent materials at that point of time. Later on, the
mechanical system created ways for the faster completion of spinning and weaving. After the
introduction of machinery, the technicalities were given due care and the finesse came in a
better way. This also helped the weavers, embroiders and hand-printers to create new
designs. At the time of British, the export business of cotton and silk also started. This
enabled the Indians to showcase the talent of their expertise in other countries also. Indian
handloom created a special place for itself in India and abroad too. With so many varieties of
handloom from different states, India has collected a precious wealth of innovation. After all,
this has lead to the emergence of India as the most richly cultured country.
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The Office of the Development Commissioner for Handlooms has been implementing, since
its inception in the year 1976, various schemes for the promotion and development of the
handloom sector and providing assistance to the handloom weavers in a variety of ways.
Some of the Major Programmes Relate to the handloom sector are:
Modernization and Up gradation of Technology
Input Support
Marketing Support
Development of Exportable Products
Publicity
Infrastructural Support
Welfare Measures
Composite Growth Oriented Package
Research & Development
Handloom Products in India
Handloom industry in India is best known for its distinctiveness, style, traditionalism and
modern technology. Each and every state in India has the capability of boasting innovative
printing, weaving, embroidery and designing trends. And it is this art form that gives them
their individuality. What makes the handloom industry significant is the use of fine textured
fabrics, exclusively beautiful patterns, trendy outlook and sheer finesse in the product. In
fact, handloom industry has tried its hands on almost every product that can be thought off.
From saris to suits, lehengas, skirts, stoles, scarfs, shawls, jackets and many more.
Handloom industry in India has flourished to a large extent.
Sarees
Suits
Kurtas
Shawls
Skirts
LehangaCholi
Dhotis
Sherwanis
Kurta Pyjamas
Jacket
Prominent Handloom Materials in India

Caps
Slippers
Bed Linens
Table Linen
Cushion Covers
Curtain
Bags & Purses
Carpets
Mats
File Covers

Handloom in India has always been a centre of attraction. It is because dressing styles have
an essence of magnetism in them that people tend to adopt some or the other trend on every
occasion. Moreover, there is some sort of exclusivity in each states handloom craft, whether
it is printing technology or weaving style. And in all this, the importance of material lies in
the way it is used for weaving or printing. Each and every material in India is a significant
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part of handloom industry. At some points, it is the sheer texture of material that creates
magic; while at other levels, it is the softness of material that tends to hold attention.
From cotton to georgette, chiffon, silk, muslin, wool, crepe, Pashmina, synthetic and jute,
handloom materials tends to give exclusivity to the whole piece of art. During carving an art
on these materials, they are either used singly or are mingled with other material to create a
wholesome effect. The style of Indian clothing is popular worldwide as it makes use of
various kinds of handloom materials and creates something exclusive from it. Saree, salwar
kameez, lehenga choli, sharara, skirts and churidar suits are some of the gifts that handloom
department has given to us.
Silk
Cotton
Pashmina & Wool
Chiffon
Crepe
Georgette
Jute
Muslim
The relation of Indian clothing and handloom is ages old. From making a particular material
to weaving it with threads or printing it, handloom materials undergo so many processes.
After that, they are designed into stylish dresses for the people to adorn their body. It is
because of this that handloom department in India is taking every care of the developments.
Using Dyes
The process of resist dyeing, tie-dyeing and yarns tie-dyed to a pattern before weaving were
the basic techniques of indigenous dyeing of village cloth. Shellac was used for reds, iron
shavings and vinegar for blacks, turmeric for yellow and pomegranate rinds for green.
Before the artificial synthesis of indigo and alizarin as dye stuffs, blues and reds were
traditionally extracted from the plants indigo era, anil and rubiatintorum (madder-root).
These were the main sources for traditional Indian dyes. Even today, the Kalmkari cloth of
Andhra Pradesh is printed with local vegetable dyes. The colours being shades of ochre,
deep blue and a soft rose derived from local earths, indigo and madder roots.
Printing
Andhra Pradesh has made a significant contribution to the history of hand-printed textiles in
India. Printing is native to the land, its pigments being obtained from the flowers, leaves and
barks of local trees and it chemicals obtained from clay, dung and river sands. A new
technique has been developed in the northern sectors where warp threads are lined, measured
and tied to the loom and then printed. The warp-printed material is a specialty of Haryana
and Uttar Pradesh.

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The ideal seasons for block printing are the dry months. Excellence is achieved only if the
block is freshly and perfectly chiseled. The designs are produced by artists and the designing
is kept within the discipline imposed, the type of yarn, the dyes used and the weaving
techniques, by the nakshabandhas (graph-paper designers).India also produces a range of
home furnishings, household linen, curtain tapestry and yardage of interesting textures and
varying thickness, which have been devised by using blended yarn. Muslims were forbidden
the use of pure silk, and the half cotton half silk, fabrics known, as mashru and himru were a
response to this taboo. Given the wide and exciting range of handloom it is not surprising
that the rich and beautiful products of the weavers of India have been called "Exquisite
poetry in colourful fabrics."
REVIEW OF LITERATURE
Chavda Dharmendrasinh (2001)1 has viewed that retail major Pantaloons has tied up with
Andhra Pradesh Handloom Weavers' Co-operative Society and National Institute of Fashion
Technology to launch a new women's ethnic wear range made from handloom. the handloom
will be sourced from APCO. Another retail chain, Shopper's Stop is also reported to have
shown readiness to pick up handloom from APCO.
Sundari B. Shyama (2001)2 has analyzed the case of the cooperative societies, whether they
have helped or hampered the handloom industry. Secondly, he has advanced a theory "that
its own qualities of resilience and dynamism have enabled handloom weaving to survive
with some degree of strength." Thirdly, they contend that a countrywide policy to the
problems of the handloom sector is not the right solution; and that any pragmatic attempt to
alleviate the difficulties of the handloom weaver ought to be location-specific and regional in
character.
Devarajan R (2002)3 has noticed that there are two schools of thought concerning the
traditional industries in India. One school regards them as an atavistic survival of preindustrial economic organizational structure. The other school regards them as the
repositories of a heritage of skilled craftsmanship.
PTI (2003)4 has pointed out that the government has set up a core Group to enable adequate
and timely flow of credit to the handloom sector, a onetime special rebate scheme for sale of
handloom fabrics with a provision of Rs 100 crore was also under finalization for liquidating
existing handloom stocks. A special contributory insurance scheme covering one million
weavers would be launched soon.
Kumar P.S. (2003)5 has pointed out that Khadi and Village Industries Board keeping with its
mission to uplift the rural poor, provides financial assistance for establishing Village
Industries. These Village Industries make use of the locally available raw materials and help
to build up a strong rural economy in terms of money and wealth.
Mishra Ashis (2003)6 has observed that the handloom products of any region with all its
embedded quality and design represent the culture of that region Their cultural mix can be
created by picking up the best and most marketable designs from each type of product, crosscultural product designs can be generated and their definite marketing activity can be
ensured through an adequate marketing decision system for the resurrection of a dying
species such as the handloom industry in Ganjam district.
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Agencies (2004) has pointed out that the sale of handloom clothes in Andhra Pradesh has
gone up following Chief Minister's call to people to wear handloom dresses at least once a
week to generate demand in the market and help the crisis-ridden sector.
This was
supported by a massive promotional campaign launched by the government through
exhibitions and discount sales.
It has been pointed out by Bhatnagar Subhash (2004)8 that in handloom industries successful
models for scaling up ITCs E-Chaupal is the best example of the scheme aimed at up
gradation of infrastructure support and skill for handloom weavers, besides strengthening the
production base by modernizing the looms.
Sivakkannan M. (2005)9 has pointed out that The Handloom Export Promotion Council
(HEPC) is well aware of its role as a catalyst in revitalizing the handloom industry in the
context of the post-Multi-Fiber Agreement era to cater to the increasing global demand.
Jayaswal Rajeev (2005)10 has noticed that desi looms are fast changing into dollar minting
machines. Growing demand for ethnic Indian products abroad has caught attention of foreign
entrepreneurs. Encouraged by the growing foreign interests in Indian handicrafts business,
domestic exporters have decided to set up handicrafts and handloom stores abroad.
Vashisht Dinker (2006)11 has observed that the industry players feel that given the right
encouragement and suitable policy changes the quantum of exports can go up further. The
exporters of Panipat don't have to go too far to get ready cotton. The city has a cotton
spinning industry of its own that comprises of 35 units. Power scarcity is a big problem.
Power tripping is rampant and it lead to a waste of time and also results in losses.
PTI (2006)12 has pointed out that the textiles ministry was taking steps to increase the reach
of the Handloom Mark label scheme, launched to popularize hand-woven products and to
ensure their genuineness. Two labels had been designed - one for the domestic market and
the other for certifying export products - by the National Institute of Design.
PTI (2007)13 has noted that the handloom sector was highly decentralized and dispersed, that
efforts have been made to organize handloom weavers into cooperatives during the last fifty
years. It suggested that interest on credit to weavers should be lowered from 12 per cent,
which was same as that given to industries. It also favored waiving of interest on loans
availed by handloom units with poor financial health.
Sehgal H. K. (2009)14 has examined that as far as the garment export sector is concerned,
there have been mixed signals: continuing world economic downturn; some late recovery,
however temporary and for some people; recent Rupee appreciation and with a new
Government, expected to be stable, assuming charge.
Shijina Shiji (2009)15 has marked that the weaving process is central to the quality of the rug.
As a matter of fact, handloom rugs and carpets is an age-old profession practiced by village
artisans. It is indeed unfortunate that the handloom rug making units are under threat of
closure as they are encountering stiff competition globally from power loom units.
Prachi (2010)16 has observed that Indian handloom is growing in its popularity not only
among the people in India, but also among the people admiring Indian handloom and Indian
handicrafts from around the globe. In spite of having distinct styles and ways of weaving,
there is a lot of exchange of styles that happened among the diverse Indian handloom styles.
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TNN (2011) has mentioned that the state government has taken several decisions to
encourage weavers to boost handloom industry in the state. The state government with the
cooperation of the Centre has formulated several schemes to ameliorate the socio-economic
conditions of the weavers belonging to the handloom industry.
Sunderarajan P (2011)18 has noticed that weaver cooperative societies had become
financially unviable since, many weavers were not able to repay their dues because of
economic stress.
IANS (2011)19 has noted that Indian consumers need to change the thinking; they need to
think 'swadeshi' rather than 'videshi. The greatest tragedy weavers face is being ignored
not just by people but by designers as well. The fashion industry is a very powerful platform
to convey the message across the masses that fashion is more than chic dressing; there has to
be an essence to it.
CONCLUSION
The handloom industry has developed substantially over a period of time. It is spread
through the entire country. Most of the handloom units are run either as sole-proprietors or
on partnership basis, the owners lack the needed professional outlook in the overall handing
of their units. Therefore many of them are not even aware of the modern techniques of
marketing such as product development, brand promotion, packaging, advertising, market
surveys and demand forecasts. To maximize their sales volume, it has become very
important for them to know how to get maximum returns by using different marketing
strategies. There is a need to study and implement marketing practices in order to increase
export and provide customer satisfaction.
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