GFD 1 - NOTES

Familiarizing Dressmaking Tools 

Well selected tools and equipment will help you achieve good results besides making work lighter
and faster. A sewing box for storing tools conveniently placed near the sewing center will help you locate
them faster. Damage to tools and supplies as well as accident may be prevented or minimized if they are
kept in a special definite place in your sewing box.

Tools are classified according to their functions and uses.

Classification of Tools 

1. Measuring Tools. These are the tools that ensure good fit. Measure often or accurately with the
best tools for the job.
a. Hem Marker- an accurate guide for measuring and marking hemlines.

b. Ruler – 12” long used for measuring straight lines. Use for general marking (12” to 18” / 30.5cm
to 46 cm). See through ruler lets you see general measure or mark. This ruler is used to check the
fabric grain line and to mark buttonholes, tucks and pleats.

c. Seam Gauge- tool use in measuring and marking short distances as hems, tucks, and seams.
Small pieces of stiff cardboard may be used for making gauges or small metal gauge may be
bought for this purpose. This tool helps make accurate measurements for hems, buttonholes,
scallops, and pleats. Small 6” (15cm.) metal or plastic rulers with a sliding have small metal tips at
each end to prevent fraying. 

d. Tape Measure - for taking body measurements and for measuring when drafting patterns,
altering and for laying out the pattern on the fabric. It should be 60” (152 cm.) long made of non-
stretchable materials, numbered on both sides and from each end and have small metal tips at each
end to prevent fraying.

e. See- through T- square – use to locate cross grain after pattern and square off straight edges.

f. Yard stick-for general marking and for measuring fabrics.

2. Drafting Tools. This category of tools is basically used in measuring and constructing straight and curve
lines during pattern making.
a. French Curve - use in shaping the neckline and armhole curve and in shaping some collar curve.

b. Hip Curve – used for shaping the hip, skirt hemline and other long curved lines.

c. Tailors square or L-square – used for drawing perpendicular lines, for obtaining square corners
and for dividing measurements.

3. Cutting Tools
a. Seam ripper – a gadget used for ripping machine stitched seams or any stitches which needs to
be altered. It quickly rips seams, opens buttonholes and removes stitches. This must be used
carefully to avoid piercing the fabric.

b. Scissors– used for cutting threads, trimming seams, slashing and cutting buttonholes. A pair of
scissors with 3 or 4 inches (7.5 or 10 cm.) sharp, close fitting blades is convenient for use.
1. One pointed and one rounded tip for trimming and clipping seams and facings (6” or
15 cm.) most practical.
2. Finely tapered blades - both points are shape for use in hand work and precision
cutting 4” or 5” (10 or 12.5 cm.)

c. Shears – used for cutting fabrics. It has a small opening in one handle for the thumb and one
larger opening in the other handle for two or more fingers to provide more force in cutting thicker
fabrics. The blades should move easily, cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should
come together. It should have a sharp cutting edge to produce straight, smooth, and ravel-free out
edge of the fabric. Blades length of 7” or ‘8” (18 or 20.5 cm.) – most popular but lengths up to 12”
930.5 cm.) – is available. Select a blade length appropriate to the size of your hand, shorter lengths
for short hands, longer lengths for longer hands. Left-handed models are also available.
 1. For heavy duty cutting – lighter models with stainless steel blades and plastic
handles.
2. Fine - for less frequent sewing or light weight fabrics.
3. Serrated-edge shears – for synthetic fabrics and slippery knits, gives a maximum
cutting control.
d. Rotary cutter – works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. Use
likes a rotary cutter with a special plastic mat available in different sizes. The mat protects both the
cutting surface and the blade. A special locking mechanism retracts the blade for safety.

e. Thread clipper – used to cut thread. It has a spring action blades that makes it more convenient
than scissors and safer than seam ripper.

f. Pinking shears/scalloping shears – cut a zigzag or scalloped edge instead of a straight one. 
Used to finish seams and raw edges on many types of fabrics, they cut a ravel-resistant edge.

4. Marking Tools
a. Dressmaker’s carbon paper – used with a tracing wheel to transfer construction marks from the
pattern to cloth. It is available in white and other colors. It makes the work quick, easy and accurate.
It produces identical marks on both layers of fabrics.

b. Tracing wheel – used with a dressmaker’s carbon paper in transferring markings to the other
side of the cloth.

1. Serrated edge – makes a dotted line marking, suitable for most types of fabric but
may pierce delicate ones.
2. Smooth edge – protects delicate smooth fabrics such as silk and chiffon. It makes
a solid line marking.
c. Tailor’s Chalk – for marking directly on the cloth. It is difficult to achieve accurately and it is
necessary to sharpen the edge more often to produce thin lines.
 d. Liquid Marking Pencil – make quick work for marking tucks, darts, pleats, and pocket locations.
 One type disappears within 48hours to 2 days
 The other washes off with water but should not be used on fabrics that show
water marks. Pressing may set the marks permanently, so remove mark before
pressing the area.

5. Sewing Tools
a. Needles – point sharp eyes smooth and well-polished.
i. Hand Sewing Needle – choose one that is easiest to use.
1. Crewels – have longer eyes and may be easier to use than sharp. Suitable
for regular sewing and embroidery. They are sharps and of medium lengths.
2. Milliners – long needles with round eyes, used for making long basting or
gathering stitches.

ii. Machine Stitching Needle – the size of the needle depends upon the kind of fabric and
thread.

 #11 – for fine fabrics like georgette and other fine sheer.
 #14 – poplin and other light weight fabrics
 #16 – medium light weight as in denims
 #13 or 19 – coarse or heavy fabrics.
 Ballpoint needles – used on knits. Instead of a sharp point which may pierce
the fabric, the rounded end pushes the knit loops apart.
 Betweens – very short and round eye. They help make fine stitches in heavy
fabrics or quilting. 

b. Pins – used rust proof pins which are fine, smooth, and sharp. They should be clean.
i. Silk pins – used for light to medium weight fabrics
 #17is 1 / ” (2.6 cm. long) – available with glass or plastic heads.
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 #20 is 1 / ” (3.2 cm. long) - available with glass or plastic heads.

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 Extra fine is 1 / ” (4.5cm. long) – easier to see fabrics because of their length.
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ii. Straight Pins – brass, steel or stainless steel are used for general sewing. They are
usually 1 / ” (2.6 cm. long)
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 iii. Pleating Pins – 1” (2.5 cm.) long, for pinning delicate fabrics in the seam allowance.
iv. Quilting Pins - 1 / ” (3.2 cm.) long, used for heavy materials because of their lengths.
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v. Ballpoint pins – used for knits.

c. Pin cushion–provides safe place to store pins. A wrist pin cushion is convenient to keep a supply
of pins close to the work. Some pin cushions have an emery pack (an abrasive material) attached
for cleaning pins and needles.

d. Emery bag - looks like a pin cushion but stuffed with powdered glass or sand. This is used to
remove rust on pins and needle and also sharpens them.

e. Needle threader– eases threading of hand and machine needle.

f. Beeswax – strengthens thread and prevents tangling for sewing.

g. Sewing machine – for sewing machine stitching

i. Straight stitching – foot powered
ii. Forward & backward, zigzag – motor powered

h. Thimble – a gadget worn in the middle finger of the hand that does the sewing. The outer
surface should be free from sharp edges and should fit the finger snugly but not tight.
 i. Thread – thread should match the fabric or be shade darker. A supply of colored thread must be
on hand for marking or basting.

6. Pressing Tools. Pressing at each stage of construction is a secret to a perfectly finished garment.
 Ironing – gliding the iron over the fabric
 Pressing – moving the iron very little while it is in contact with the fabric. Use minimum
pressure on the iron and press in the direction of the fabric grain. Lift the iron to move to
another section.

General Rules in Pressing:

1. Press each stitch seam before crossing with another.

2. Press on the wrong side to prevent iron shine and protect the iron’s soleplate by removing
pins before pressing.

a. Steam/Spray Iron – should have a wide temperature range to accommodate all fabrics. But a
dependable iron.  An iron that steams and sprays at any setting, not just the higher heat setting is
helpful for synthetic fabrics.

b. Tailor’s Ham/Press Mitt – is used when pressing shaped area as curved seams, darts, collars
or sleeve caps.
Ham – a firmly packed cushion wit rounded curves. One side is cotton; the other side is covered
with wool to retain more steam.
Mitt – similar to ham but handy for small, hard to reach areas. It fits over the hand or a sleeve
board.

c. Press cloth – prevents iron shine and is always used when applying fusible interfacing. The
transparent variety allows you to see if the fabric is smooth and the interfacing properly aligned.

d. Sleeve board – looks like two small ironing boards attached one on the top of another. It is used
when pressing seams ad details of small or narrow areas such as sleeves, pants legs or necklines.
e. Point Presser/Clapper – made of hardwood and used for pressing seams open in corners and
points. The clapper flattens seams by holding steam and heat in the fabric. This tool is used in
tailoring to achieve a flat finish and sharp edges on hard surfaced fabrics.

f. Seam roll – firmly packed cylindrical cushion for pressing seams. The bulk of the fabric falls to the
sides and never touches the iron, preventing the seam from making an imprint on the right side of
the fabric.