Wood-Mizer Thin-Kerf

Blades
Blade Handbook
A Guide To Understanding Bandsaw
Blade Terminology & Optimizing Blade
Performance
Safety is our #1 concern! Read and understand
all safety information and instructions before operating, setting up or maintaining this machine.

May 2007
Form #600

Table of Contents
SECTION 1
1.1

Section-Page
BLADE INTRODUCTION

1-1

Best Blade In The Industry........................................................................................ 1-2

DoubleHard Blades.......................................................................................................... 1-2
SilverTip Blades ............................................................................................................... 1-2

1.2

Which Blade Should You Use?................................................................................. 1-3

SECTION 2
2.1
2.2
2.3
2.4
2.5
2.6
2.7

BLADE HANDLING

4-1

TROUBLESHOOTING

5-1

Blade Breakage.......................................................................................................... 5-1

Blade Performance .................................................................................................... 6-1
Special Problem Wood Types or Conditions ............................................................ 6-2

INDEX

ii

3-1

Coiling The Blade...................................................................................................... 4-1

Uncoiling The Blade.................................................................................................. 4-3
Inverting The Blade................................................................................................... 4-5
Storing Blades ........................................................................................................... 4-7
Packaging Blades For Shipping................................................................................. 4-8

SECTION 5
5.1
5.2
5.3

BLADE MAINTENANCE

General Blade Maintenance Information .................................................................. 3-1

Blade Life Expectancy .............................................................................................. 3-4
Automatic Blade Sharpener Option........................................................................... 3-7
Toothsetter/Gauge Option ......................................................................................... 3-8

SECTION 4
4.1
4.2
4.3
4.4
4.5

2-1

Tooth Spacing............................................................................................................ 2-2

Radius ........................................................................................................................ 2-3
Tooth Height (Depth Of Gullet) ................................................................................ 2-4
Hook Angle ............................................................................................................... 2-5
Face Angle................................................................................................................. 2-6
Tooth Set ................................................................................................................... 2-7
Recommended Blade Specifications ......................................................................... 2-8

SECTION 3
3.1
3.2
3.3
3.4

BLADE GEOMETRY

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Blade Introduction

SECTION 1 BLADE INTRODUCTION

Wood-Mizer is the worldwide leader in portable bandmills and other wood-processing
equipment. Wood-Mizer is also the only sawmill manufacturer that produces narrow-band
thin-kerf blades. When we introduced our first portable bandmill 20 years ago, one thing
quickly became clear: We needed better blades than were currently available.
After evaluating the materials and processes others were using to make blades,
Wood-Mizer decided the only option was to manufacture its own blades. This decision
has led to advancements in blade materials and processing that have revolutionized the
industry. Advances in developing bigger and better sawmills, combined with our countless
hours and dollars spent on blade technology have resulted in customers being able to
saw more lumber faster using less horsepower than traditional sawmills.
The blade can cause the success or failure of a cutting operation. It is important for sawyers to understand definitions and theories about blades. What our research has shown
to be the most productive has not always matched what the textbooks say. We believe
this is due to the low horsepower and narrow width of our blades as compared to larger
production mills. This section explains narrow-band blades used with the Wood-Mizer.
See also Section 3, Blade Maintenance or the Blade Maintenance Video for blade sharpening techniques and troubleshooting.
Wood-Mizer blades are available in various widths, thicknesses and tooth profiles to satisfy any cutting application. The following chapters provide information that will help you
determine which blade to use. A Customer Service Representative can also help you
decide which blade is best for your cutting application (1-800-525-8100). You can also
call Wood-Mizer Blades at 1-800-522-5760 and speak with a blade consultant or visit our
website at www.woodmizerblades.com.

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1-1

1
1.1

Blade Introduction
Best Blade In The Industry

Best Blade In The Industry

Wood-Mizer is the only sawmill manufacturer that makes its own blades.
Wood-Mizer builds quality into every blade we manufacture. From the selection of the
raw materials to the output of the final product, every step of the manufacturing process is
controlled and inspected. Over one hundred separate tests and inspections ensure the
quality of every blade that comes to you in a Wood-Mizer box of blades.
Each Wood-Mizer blade tooth is individually measured and set by computer-controlled
equipment during the manufacturing process.
Wood-Mizer is the only company that stamps an identification number onto every blade
we manufacture. This number allows us to track the blades from the raw material to the
end user, YOU. If theres ever a question about performance or quality, we are able to
track the blade back through the manufacturing process and identify potential areas of
improvement. The identification number assures you of a product that performs well now
and will continue to improve as we discover even better ways of producing blades that
consistently give maximum performance.

DoubleHard Blades
Wood-Mizer DoubleHard blades are a combination of two different metallurgical techniques that result in superior hardness and toughness not found in other blades. The
DoubleHard blades use high-quality steel and the teeth are induction hardened (DoubleHard-ened) so they stay sharper longer and can be resharpened often. The performance
of these blades means higher productivity and lower cost per board foot.

SilverTip Blades
This blade is made specifically to meet the needs of the resaw industry and is a
lower-cost alternative for customers not requiring multiple resharpenings.
The SilverTip features much tighter manufacturing specs than the competitions blades.
The SilverTip is made with a higher carbon content than DoubleHard blades, with a
high-durability steel suited to high-volume sawing environments. SilverTip blades will typically provide fewer resharpenings than DoubleHard blades.

1-2

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Blade Introduction

Blade Introduction
Which Blade Should You Use?

1.2

Which Blade Should You Use?

See Figure 1-1. Wood-Mizer's blade part numbers are made up of ten or twelve characters. See the table below for a description of what each character of the blade part number represents. Note that Wood-Mizer blades can be ordered in almost any length.
Standard blades are kept in stock and are available for same day shipment. Custom
lengths are normally available for shipment within two days of order.

HOW SOLD;
B=BOX OF BLADES, U=UNIT (SINGLE BLADE)

2 7

THICKNESS; 1=.035", 2=.042", 3=.045", 4=.055, 5=.050,6=.038

TOOTH SPACING; 7=7/8", 5=5/8

WIDTH; 4, 5, 6, 7 OR 8 QUARTERS OF AN INCH (except 1 1/8

blades)

74

SILVERTIP ONLY

158

LENGTH IN INCHES
158 for LT15/28/30/40, 184 for LT60/70 or 144 for LT10

10

SPECIAL CONDITION;
4=EXTREMELY KNOTTY OR FROZEN WOOD SERIES;
9=HARD OR FROZEN WOOD SERIES;
10=STANDARD SERIES; 13=SOFTWOOD SERIES

S = STANDARD LENGTH; C = CUSTOM LENGTH

FIG. 1-1

Three factors should be considered when determining which blade is best suited for your
application:
1. Hook Angle.
The hook angle (how far the tooth leans forward) should be chosen based on the type of
wood you are cutting. Softwoods require higher hook angles (10-13). Hard, frozen or
knotty woods require lower hook angles (4-10). The 10 hook angle is a good all-purpose
profile recommended for most sawing applications.
2. Blade Thickness.
Thicker blades provide faster feed rates and better cutting performance but require higher
horsepower. Thicker blades also perform better in difficult sawing conditions such as
knotty, frozen, dry or extremely hard material. Thinner blades provide longer flex life and
are recommended for sawmills with lower horsepower or where production/speed is not a
primary factor in your application.

Blade Introduction

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1-3

Blade Introduction
Which Blade Should You Use?

3. Blade Width.
As with blade thickness, blade width provides faster feed rates and increased cutting performance, but require higher horsepower. Wide blades can also be resharpened more
often, resulting in more production during the life of the blade. Narrow blades perform better on low-horsepower sawmills and in some difficult sawing conditions.
See Table 1-1. See the chart below for blade recommendations for various equipment.
SilverTip Series
Width Thick

Tooth Profile
Space

Series #

Horsepower

Application

.035

5/8

12

B15474xxx12

10-15 electric

Resawing narrow-width material.

.042

7/8

B274xxx9

10-15 electric

Resawing extreme hard/frozen woods.

.042

7/8

10

B274xxx10

10-15 electric

Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/8

.038

5/8

12

B656xxx12

10-15 electric

Resawing narrow width mixed hardwoods.

1 1/4

.042

7/8

10

B27574xxx10

5-15 gas/diesel
10-15 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

13

B37674xxx13

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

10

B37674xxx10

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

13

B47674xxx13

51-62 diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

10

B47674xxx10

51-62 diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

B47674xxx4

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood, larger

logs and/or wider cuts.

1 3/4

.055

7/8

13

B47774xxx13

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

1 3/4

.055

7/8

10

B47774xxx10

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing/Resawing medium/mixed hardwoods.

DoubleHard Series
1 1/4

.035

7/8

10

B175xxx10

5-15 gas/diesel
10-15 electric

Medium hardwoods. Also recommended for

sawmills with small blade wheels (less than 19
diameter).

1 1/4

.042

7/8

10

B275xxx10

5-15 gas/diesel
10-15 electric

Sawing medium hardwoods.

1 1/4

.045

7/8

B375xxx4

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood, larger

logs and/or wider cuts.

1 1/4

.045

7/8

B375xxx9

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood.

1 1/4

.045

7/8

10

B375xxx10

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing medum/mixed hardwoods.

TABLE 1-1

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Blade Introduction

Blade Introduction
Which Blade Should You Use?

1 1/4

.055

7/8

B475xxx4

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood, larger

logs and/or wider cuts.

1 1/4

.055

7/8

B475xxx9

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood.

1 1/4

.055

7/8

10

B475xxx10

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing medum/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

B376xxx4

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood, larger

logs and/or wider cuts.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

B376xxx9

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

10

B376xxx10

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing medum/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.045

7/8

13

B376xxx13

16-42 gas/diesel
15-25 electric

Sawing softwoods.

1 1/2

.050

7/8

10

B576xxx10

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing medum/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.050

7/8

13

B576xxx13

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing softwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

10

B476xxx10

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing medum/mixed hardwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

13

B476xxx13

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing softwoods.

1 1/2

.055

7/8

B476xxx4

51-62 gas/diesel
25-30 electric

Sawing extremely knotty or frozen wood, larger

logs and/or wider cuts.

TABLE 1-1

Blade Introduction

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1-5

Blade Geometry

SECTION 2 BLADE GEOMETRY

See Figure 2-1. This illustration is referenced throughout this section.

D
C

Wood-Mizer Blade

SM0001B

E
FIG. 2-1

A = Tooth Spacing
B = Radius
C = Tooth Height (Depth of Gullet)
D = Hook Angle
E = Tooth Set

2-1

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Blade Geometry

Blade Geometry
Tooth Spacing

2.1

Tooth Spacing
See Figure 2-2. Tooth spacing is the distance between each tooth from one tip to
another. The tooth spacing of Wood-Mizer blades is 7/8" (22.0 mm) 1. Tooth spacing will
always remain the same. It is not changed by the sharpening process.
The term "pitch" also is used to in reference to tooth spacing. Pitch refers to the number
of teeth per inch on a bandsaw blade. The pitch of Wood-Mizer blades is 1.14. 1

7/8"

5/8"

SM0334
FIG. 2-1

11

1/8 blades have 5/8 tooth spacing (1.60 pitch) beneficial when resawing narrow-width material (up to 6 wide).

Blade Geometry

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2-2

2
2.2

Blade Geometry
Radius

Radius
See Figure 2-1. The radius captures and removes sawdust while providing strength in
the tooth design. A radius set too low on the tooth, or too sharp a radius, will result in
increased stress at the base of the tooth and cause possible breakage.
A radius set too high on the tooth causes the tooth to fill up with sawdust too quickly
resulting in reduced cutting speeds and wasted overall blade life.

2-3

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Blade Geometry

Blade Geometry
Tooth Height (Depth Of Gullet)

2.3

Tooth Height (Depth Of Gullet)

See Figure 2-1. Tooth height is the distance from the lowest point of the gullet to the tip of
the tooth. The gullet is the area between teeth that carries sawdust out of the cut. Tooth
height must be tall enough to allow the gullet to carry out all of the sawdust from the cut.
As the blade spins and bends, hairline fractures occur in the bottom of the gullet. Using a
blade too long after it has dulled accelerates the forming of fractures. These fractures are
too small to see with the naked eye. To prevent premature blade breakage, enough material must be ground from the gullet of the blade to remove any of the fractured material.
Wood-Mizer blades are supplied with various tooth heights. Blades designed for cutting
softwoods have taller teeth. Blades for sawing extremely hard wood or frozen logs have
shorter teeth.
With the optional blade sharpener, you can fine tune the tooth height for your specific cutting application. See Table 2-1 for recommended tooth heights for various blades and
types of wood.
As a general rule, tooth height is increased to saw softwoods and decreased for hardwoods.

Blade Geometry

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2-4

Blade Geometry

2.4

Hook Angle

Hook Angle

Hook angle, tooth set, sharpness of tooth, and proper tooth height are the most important
factors in the cutting ability of a blade. All four have an important effect on cutting quality
and production.
See Figure 2-2. The hook angle is the number of degrees that the tooth face leans forward of 90 degrees. The hook angle allows the teeth to "hook" themselves into the
wood. The teeth must take out enough wood so that the blade feeds itself into the log. If
the hook angle is too large compared to the feed rate, it causes chatter, a rough cut and
poor cut quality. If the hook angle is too small, the blade must be forced into the log so
that the saw will cut.
Too large or too small a hook angle will cause additional stress to the blade and will result
in premature blade breakage.

Hook Angle

SM0002

FIG. 2-2

Wood-Mizer blades are supplied with various hook angles for sawing different types of
wood. Blades with 10 hook angle are for cutting softwoods to medium hardwoods.
Blades with a 4 or 9 hook angle are also available for sawing very hard or frozen woods.
Blades with 13 hook angle are designed for extremely soft softwoods. A blade for resawing narrow width material with 12 hook angle is also available. With the optional blade
sharpener, you can fine-tune the blade hook angle. The recommended hook angle for
most cutting applications is 10-12.5 degrees. See Table 2-1 for recommended hook
angles for various blades and types of wood. Less hook angle may be used on extremely
hard or frozen woods. More hook angle may be used on extremely soft woods.
As a general rule, hook angle is increased to saw softwoods and decreased for hardwoods.

2-5

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Blade Geometry

Blade Geometry
Face Angle

2.5

Face Angle
See Figure 2-3. The face angle is the angle of the tooth face in relation to the body of the
blade. The face angle is ground to 90 degrees when the Sharpener is correctly aligned.
The setting process bends the teeth a few degrees past 90 degrees.

Face Angle

SM0332

FIG. 2-3

Blade Geometry

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2
2.6

Blade Geometry
Tooth Set

Tooth Set
Tooth set is an important factor in the cutting ability of a blade.
See Figure 2-4. The tooth set is the distance that a tooth is bent compared to the body of
the blade. The set allows the back of the band to pass through the groove (kerf) which the
blade has cut.

Tooth Set

SM0003

FIG. 2-4

Wood-Mizer blades are supplied with various amounts of set depending on the thickness
of the blade and the type of wood it is designed to cut.
The more a tooth is set, the wider the cutting path of the blade and more horsepower
required for maximum cutting rates.
With the optional toothsetter, you can reset the teeth of a blade. You can also specify a
custom tooth set for blades you have reworked using the Wood-Mizer ReSharp service.
See Table 2-1 for recommended tooth set for various blades and types of wood.
As a general rule, tooth set is increased to saw softwoods and decreased for hardwoods.
Remember that as you sharpen teeth and decrease tooth height, the set also will
decrease and the blade will need resetting.
See Figure 2-5. The location the setting point contacts and bends the tooth is critical to
the performance of the blade. Setting too high on the tooth can chip the tooth. Setting too
low on the tooth can deform the blade body. Both situations will decrease the performance of the blade.

Setter Point
Contact Height

SM0333

FIG. 2-5
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Blade Geometry

Blade Geometry
Recommended Blade Specifications

2.7

Recommended Blade Specifications

See Table 2-1. Recommended blade specifications are provided based on blade thickness and type of wood to be cut. NOTE: 1 and 1 1/8 width blades are intended to be disposable; resetting the teeth is not recommended.

EXTREMELY
SOFT WOODS

AVERAGE
WOODS

EXTREMELY HARD
OR
FROZEN WOODS

HOOK ANGLE 1

12.5 - 15

10 - 12.5

4 - 10

TOOTH HEIGHT1

1/4" (6.4 mm)

3/16"-1/4 (4.8-6.4 mm)

3/16" (4.8 mm)

.035"
BLADES

Not
recommended

0.016" - 0.018"

Not
recommended

.042"
BLADES

0.021" - 0.023"

0.019" - 0.021"

0.016" - 0.018"

.045"
BLADES

0.025" - 0.027"

0.023" - 0.025"

0.018" - 0.022"

.050
Blades

0.027 - 0.029

0.024 - 0.026

0.019 - 0.023

.055"
BLADES

0.028" - 0.030"

0.025" - 0.027"

0.020" - 0.024"

SET
DIMENSION1

Wood-Mizer RESHARPTM service will use factory specifications unless other specifications are
requested.

TABLE 2-1
1

Hook angle, tooth height and tooth set of new blades is set at the factory. Owners with blade sharpening/setting equipment can alter these specifications.

Blade Geometry

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2-8

Blade Maintenance

SECTION 3 BLADE MAINTENANCE

Customers have two options regarding maintenance of their blades: Use the
Wood-Mizer Re-Sharp service or purchase the optional blade sharpener and toothsetter
to maintain your own blades.
Using Wood-Mizers Re-Sharp service is recommended. Using the Re-Sharp service is
less expensive for most customers than sharpening and setting the blades themselves.
Inspections by qualified Re-Sharp technicians ensure that proper blade geometry is
maintained.

3.1

General Blade Maintenance Information

As you use a blade, the teeth of the blade slice away pieces of wood that they contact
and carry these pieces in the form of sawdust out the other side of the log.
See Figure 3-1. As the teeth contact the wood (or anything else in their path, such as dirt)
the friction begins to wear the teeth down. Specifically, it is the outside corners of the set
teeth that wear first.

Kerf
Sawdust is airborne
in gullet and exits wood
(see detail)
Blade enters
the wood
The tip of the tooth
cuts (shaves) the wood

SM0282

FIG. 3-1

When these corners become round and shiny, it results in a "dull" blade. Dirt, rocks, sand
and other foreign materials that may be in the log will wear the teeth considerably faster
than the wood you are cutting. Such materials should be removed from the path of the
blade (especially the side the blade enters) before you start cutting.
When the tips start to become round and shiny, the blade can not cut as fast as when the
tips were sharp and still maintain a straight cut. The wood will not chip away as quickly
3-1

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Blade Maintenance

Blade Maintenance

and the blade will be forced to move up or down, resulting in a wavy cut.
Cutting with a dull blade will also do the following:

Reduce blade life because cutting speeds are slow.

Slow cutting speeds use more flex life. Flex life is the total number of times a
blade will bend around the blade wheels before breaking. A smaller, or thinner,
piece of steel will flex, or bend, more than a thick piece of steel. The thin ribbon of
steel that Wood-Mizer uses to produce their blade is well suited for the task of both
supporting the teeth and bending around the wheels.

Cause lower production output due to slower feed rates.

Make the blade harder to sharpen, requiring more passes on the sharpener to
regain a sharp tip.

Cause more wear on the grinding wheel.

Force the blade against the blade guide flange, causing cracks in the back edge
and gullet of the blade to form quicker.

To regain a sharp tip on the teeth, you must grind the face and back of the tooth until the
tip is square again.
NOTE: Before you resharpen the blade, check it for cracks. Most cracks occur across the
band of the blade at the lowest point of the gullet. If you find any cracks, do not resharpen
the blade. Install a new blade. To reduce the risk of premature blade fatigue from hairline
cracks, it is important to thoroughly clean the gullet of cracks during resharpening. It may
be necessary to lightly grind the blade twice (using a light face, back and gullet grind each
time) to thoroughly clear the gullet cracks.
Also, the amount of material you have to grind from the teeth will depend on how rounded
the teeth are. If a heavy amount must be removed to regain a sharp tip, it is best to grind
the blade lightly twice, rather than grind heavily once.
Tooth height is controlled by how much material you grind from the gullet. For recommended tooth heights for varying cutting applications, See TABLE 2-1.
When grinding material from the back of the tooth, the amount of material bent out from
the blade becomes smaller. On average, 2 to 3 thousandths set is lost from each side of
the blade when it is sharpened. The teeth must be bent back out when the set falls below
recommended specifications.
Sharpening leaves tiny metal burrs on the back side of the teeth. New blades also have

Blade Maintenance

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3-2

Blade Maintenance

burrs. These burrs MUST be removed before the set is checked. If they are not removed,
they may cause false readings. To remove the burrs: cut with the blade, or invert the
blade so that the inside faces out and drag a stick of hardwood across the blade in the
opposite direction that the teeth cut. (Use the weld in the blade as a reference point for
starting and stopping.) Re-invert the blade before measuring set or cutting.

3-3

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Blade Maintenance

Blade Maintenance
Blade Life Expectancy

3.2

Blade Life Expectancy

We have identified several areas that greatly affect overall blade performance. Each item
listed below contributes to the service life of a blade. These items are not listed in any
order of importance. Careful attention to each of these areas will help each Wood-Mizer
blade achieve maximum performance and life.

Sawyer Capability
The sawyer has control of many of the cutting conditions that affect the blade. He
must carefully monitor wood cleanliness, blade tension, feed rate, blade guide position and alignment, drive belt tension, etc. to cut as fast as possible while still maintaining a straight cut.

Log Diameter
Smaller logs have value and can be cut at a faster rate of speed, but will use more
flex life to produce the same volume of wood as a larger log. Logs ranging from 18"
to 36" in diameter will increase the total board feet a blade can produce.

Wood Species
All trees vary in density. Softwoods have inconsistent densities (growth rings, knots)
and require careful monitoring of feed speeds. Hardwoods usually have a more consistent density (except in very low grade logs) and will allow faster and steadier cutting speeds. Some examples of wood densities include:
Extremely Soft (Balsam, Aspen, Cotton Wood, Basswood)
Medium to Hard (Red Oak, Yellow Poplar, Most Pines, Walnut, Cherry, Gum)
Extremely Hard (White Oak, Osage Orange, White Ash, Hickory, Sugar Maple,
Barn Beams)

Moisture Content
Wood density changes as the log dries, requiring different cutting speeds. In some
species, an extremely soft wood that has dried will cut like an extremely hard wood.
Dry wood is more abrasive, too, causing the blade to dull more quickly.

Wood Cleanliness
Dirt, rocks, sand and other foreign materials that may be in the log will wear the
teeth considerably faster than the wood you are cutting. Dull blades require slower
cutting speeds and lead to earlier blade breakage.

Blade Tension
Proper tension is critical for maximum blade performance and cutting speeds.
Remove blade tension when the mill is not in use.

Blade Maintenance

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3-4

Blade Maintenance
Blade Life Expectancy

Blade Wheel Belts

The blade wheel belts must be in good condition. Worn belts (less than 1/32 of an
inch clearance), can allow the blade to contact the metal blade wheel, resulting in
early blade breakage.
The belts also must be of uniform thickness. Non-uniform belt thickness causes
additional stress to a blade resulting in mill vibration and reduced blade life. To promote uniform thickness, keep the belts free from sawdust buildup. Use only Goodyear, Dayco Super II, or Browning belts.

3-5

Feed Rate
Feed rates should be as fast as possible while still maintaining a straight cut. Cutting at slower speeds reduces overall blade life.

Blade Guide Position

The blade guides must be positively aligned to provide blade stability and allow
maximum cutting speeds. If the blade guides are tipped upward or downward, they
will cause the blade to cut in the same direction. The blade guide flange or back
guide should be adjusted so the blade does not continually run against it.

Lubrication
Using the LubeMizer lubrication system will reduce friction and heating of the blade,
increasing its overall life.

Drive Belt Tension

A loose drive belt will cause the blade to slip and vibrate resulting in early blade
breakage.

Maintenance
Improper blade maintenance will affect blade life. A blade gullet that is not smooth
allows stess fractures to occur and cause blades to break prematurely. Sawing with
blades that are not maintained for best possible cutting performance causes slow
feed rates which waste overall blade life.

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Blade Maintenance

Blade Maintenance
Blade Life Expectancy

See Table 3-1. The average blade life between sharpenings and life before a blade
breaks is shown below. Estimates are based on cutting clean logs on a properly aligned
sawmill. Remember that overall blade life is measured in the total number of board feet
that a single blade can produce. The averages listed are based on reports from our customers with portable sawmills equipped with 19 diameter blade wheels. They are based
on actual production, not on a scaled total. Overall blade life is subject to proper blade
maintenance.
Blade

Average Life per

Sharpening

Expected Average
Overall Life

.035" x 7/8" x 1 1/4"

300-500 board feet

3000 board feet

.042" x 7/8" x 1 1/4"

.042 x 7/8 x 2

500-700 board feet

2000-2500 board feet

.045" x 7/8" x 1 1/4"*

.045" x 7/8" x 1 1/2"
.050 x 7/8 x 1 1/2

800-1000 board feet

2500 board feet

.055" x 7/8" x 1 1/4"*

.055" x 7/8" x 1 1/2"
.055 x 7/8 x 1 3/4
.055 x 7/8 x 2

1000-1200 board feet

3000 board feet

* Includes blades with 4, 9, 10 and 13 hook angle

TABLE 3-1

Blade Maintenance

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3-6

3
3.3

Blade Maintenance
Automatic Blade Sharpener Option

Automatic Blade Sharpener Option

See Figure 3-2. Wood-Mizers Automatic Blade Sharpener (LTAGA) quickly and precisely
sharpens the teeth of bandsaw blades.
Adjustments can be made to control the material ground from the face, gullet, and back of
each tooth. The automatic index allows the operator to load a blade, make the desired
adjustments, and turn the sharpener on. The sharpener will move the blade around to
grind each tooth automatically.
Use of the Clamp Alignment tool is important to keep the clamp correctly positioned to
grind the face at 90.

Blade Support

Cam Motor

Grinder
Motor

Cam
Grinding
Wheel

7. Face Grind
Adjustment Knob

6. Coolant
Valve
8. Depth/Back Grind
Adjustment Knob

1. Converter
On/Off Switch

9. Magnetic
Shutoff Sensor
5. Grinder
On/Off Switch

4. Feed
Rate Dial

2. Start Switch

Coolant
Pump

SM0035C

3. Stop Switch

FIG. 3-2

The Automatic Blade Sharpener comes complete with stand, coolant pump and tray,
mounting hardware, control box, and magnetic shutoff system. Two indexing cams are
also supplied for 10/30 and 9/29 blade profiles. Other cams are available to enable the
sharpener to maintain other blade profiles.

3-7

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Blade Maintenance

Blade Maintenance
Toothsetter/Gauge Option

3.4

Toothsetter/Gauge Option
See Figure 3-3. The Toothsetter/Gauge Option (LTTSG-C) accurately sets the teeth of
the blade. Each tooth is measured with a dial indicator and can be reset with the push of
a lever. The manual indexing system allows the operator to set all the teeth on a blade in
minutes.
The Toothsetter/Gauge will set the teeth within .001" tolerance to provide faster cutting
speeds and smoother board surfaces.

Dial Indicator

Gauge
Foot

Blade Support
Arms (3)

Right Index Pawl

Setting Point
Clamp
Adjustment
Nut
Crank
Handle

Left Index
Pawl
Blade Rest
Screws (2)
TS0007-3

FIG. 3-3

Blade Maintenance

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3-8

Blade Handling

SECTION 4 BLADE HANDLING

This section covers coiling the blade, uncoiling the blade and inverting the blade.
WARNING! Always wear gloves and eye protection when
handling bandsaw blades. Keep people away from work
area when coiling or moving blades.

4.1

Coiling The Blade

See Figure 4-1. Raise the blade in front of you, with the teeth pointed upward. (About 1/3
to 1/4 of the blade should be between your hands.) Hold your hands about shoulder-width
apart. Place your thumbs on the outside of the blade and your fingers on the inside of the
blade. Squeeze the blade inward, making it oval-shaped.

FIG. 4-1

4-1

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Blade Handling

Blade Handling

See Figure 4-2. Keeping your wrists locked in position, turn your forearms upward and
inward. (The teeth will rotate inward and the bottom of the blade will rotate outward.)

FIG. 4-2

See Figure 4-3. Bring your hands together. The blade will form three loops. Snap the bottom loop upward and catch the three-loop coil in your hands.

FIG. 4-3

Blade Handling

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4-2

4
4.2

Blade Handling
Uncoiling The Blade

Uncoiling The Blade

See Figure 4-4. Take the three-loop coil in your right hand. Place the band against your
palm with the blade teeth pointing outward toward your fingers. Slide the top loop off and
let drop.

FIG. 4-4

See Figure 4-5. The remaining two loops of the blade will form a cross. Hold this crossed
section out in front of you with the blade teeth pointing toward you. If the right side is
crossed OVER the left, hold the crossed section with your right hand. (If the left side of
the blade is crossed OVER the right, hold the crossed section with your left hand.)

FIG. 4-5

4-3

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Blade Handling

Blade Handling
Uncoiling The Blade

See Figure 4-6. Keeping the blade in its crossed position, take hold of the side crossed
UNDER with your other hand. Use your right (or left) hand to hold only the side crossed
OVER. Place your thumbs on the top side of the blade. Put your fingers on the underneath side of the blade.

FIG. 4-6

See Figure 4-7. Hold the blade out and away from you. Slowly move your hands apart
while rotating your forearms down and outward.

FIG. 4-7

Blade Handling

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4-4

4
4.3

Blade Handling
Inverting The Blade

Inverting The Blade

See Figure 4-8. Hold the blade in front of you. Let one side rest on the ground, teeth
pointing toward you. Place you thumbs on the outside of the blade. Put your fingers on
the inside of the blade.

FIG. 4-8

See Figure 4-9. Hold the blade with your hands a little farther than shoulder-width apart.
Then bring your hands toward each other while rotating your thumbs downward. This
causes the middle of the blade to curve downward.

FIG. 4-9

4-5

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Blade Handling

Blade Handling
Inverting The Blade

See Figure 4-10. Keeping your hands close together, rotate the curved section of the
blade up and away from you. The blade will be in an oval shape, but twisted.

FIG. 4-10

See Figure 4-11. Slowly move your hands apart, allowing the blade to untwist.

FIG. 4-11

Blade Handling

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4-6

4
4.4

Blade Handling
Storing Blades

Storing Blades
Use care when moving, storing, or handling blades. When blades are stacked or thrown
together, the tips can be dulled or the set changed.
Stack two blades back-to-back using dividers between each set of blades to prevent the
teeth from contacting each other.
If storing blades for long periods of time, be sure the blades are dry then coat with lubricant.

4-7

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Blade Handling

Blade Handling
Packaging Blades For Shipping

4.5

Packaging Blades For Shipping

2
Place blade(s)
inside the box.

How to Package
Blade(s) for
Return Shipping
DO NOT USE BOXES
WITH TEARS OR HOLES
Please read the directions carefully on how to package
blade for returns. Otherwise, the package will not be
acceptable to the shipping regulation. Thank you.

3
Tape the sides
and top of box
with 1 1/2" nylon
reinforced tape.

Top of blade:
Use the clip
to fasten the
blade(s)
together.

Completely fasten
blade(s) with clip
and heavy
duty wire.

4
Tape around
the taped sides
to secure the
side tapes from
peeling.

Bottom of blade:
Wrap heavy duty wire
and tie twist together to
fasten the blade(s).

WARNING:
BLADES UNDER
TENSION!
Do NOT pick
up assembled
blades until
this wire is in
place and the
clip is secure.

5
Afx ReSharp
return labels
or Authorized
Return labels
(RMA) to ouside
of box.

1.800.522.5760
www.woodmizer.com

Blade Handling

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4-8

Blade Handling
Packaging Blades For Shipping

Please read the directions carefully on how to package

broken weld blade returns. Otherwise, the package will
not be acceptable to the shipping regulation. Thank you.

Returning Broken
Blades or Welds

STEP 1

Make sure to include the section

with the Wood-Mizer code.

12"
12"
Cut approxiately 12" back from
both ends of the blade break.
THIS APPLIES TO BLADE OR WELD BREAKS

STEP 2

STEP 3

Wrap three pieces together with

heavy duty wire. Make sure the code
number is in front for identication.

Place teeth toward the fold,

use double wall cardboard.

STEP 5

STEP 4

STEP 4

Fold cardboard and tape

along open side and ends.

STEP 6

Retain your tracking number

for your record.

Insert blade into thick

cardboard envelope and seal.

Apply labels provided by Wood-Mizer.

WARNING!
Failure to follow these guidelines
can result in serious injury.
Thank you for your compliance.

1.800.522.5760
www.woodmizer.com
2006 Wood-Mizer Products, Inc.

4-9

1481FlatBoxShippingInst/9/06/wm

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Blade Handling

Troubleshooting
Blade Breakage

SECTION 5 TROUBLESHOOTING
Our Resharp blade technicians have spent years evaluating blades sent to us by our customers. The advice provided in these sections can help you avoid common mistakes and
maximize sawing performance and blade life.

5.1

Blade Breakage
Following is a list of some of the most common preventable causes of premature blade
breakage:
Action

Sawing too long with a dull or

damaged blade

Result
Stress in the band

Solution
Change the blade at regular
intervals.
Change the blade immediately
after striking a foreign object or
material.

Flat spots worn on blade guide

roller surface

Vibration and heat in blade

Replace blade guide rollers as

necessary.

Grooves in blade guide roller

flange

Damage to back edge of blade

Replace blade guide rollers as

necessary. Adjust for proper
clearance between flange and
blade.

Frozen or worn blade guide

roller bearings

Heat buidup

Lubricate or rebuild roller bearings as necessary.

Chipped/broken blade guide

wear pads

Damage to blade surface

Hone or replace wear pads as

necessary.

Misaligned blade guides

Damage to blade surface

Check blade guide alignment at

regular intervals and adjust as
necessary.

Blade guide wear pads adjusted

too close to blade

Heat on blade surface

Adjust wear pads for proper

clearance.

Worn blade wheel belts

Heat caused by blade contacting blade wheel, blade wanders

Replace blade wheel belts.

Loose or damaged drive belts

Vibration, blade slippage

Adjust or replace drive belts

Sawdust between blade wheel

and blade wheel belts

Vibration, blade slippage

Inspect blade wheels for sawdust at regular intervals and

remove as necessary.

Improper blade tension

Stress in band

Regularly check blade tension

while sawing and adjust to recommended range as necessary.

Troubleshooting

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5-1

Troubleshooting
Blade Breakage

Dropping a tensioned blade

down on a log or cant

Kinks, stretching

Replace the blade.

Excessive sap buildup on blade

or blade wheel belts

Heat buildup

Use waterlube to prevent

buildup. Remove blade and
clean if necessary. Scrape
buildup from belts.

Ramming blade into end of log

or other stationary objects

Kinks in blade

Replace the blade.

Excessive pitch buildup on sides

of the teeth

Heat, wavy cuts

Clean or replace blade.

Burning gullet of blade during

sharpening

Breakage point

Use coolant during grinding.

Use multiple passes through
sharpener, removing smaller
amounts of material each pass.

Large burrs created during

sharpening

Breakage point

Use coolant during grinding.

Use multiple passes through
sharpener, removing smaller
amounts of material each pass.

Too much or too little hook angle

in tooth

Vibration and/or stress in the

blade and slow cutting speed

Adjust sharpener to provide

proper hook angle for material to
be sawn.

Incomplete sharpening of tooth

profile

Dull blade, breakage point

Sharpen complete profile.

Missing the outside corners (cutting tip) of set teeth

Dull blade

Sharpen complete profile.

Removing too little material from

gullet

Fails to remove stress fractures

Adjust sharpener to take more

material from gullet of blade.

Worn grinding wheel

Steel buildup in wheel reduces

its grinding ability

Replace grinding wheel.

Incorrect grinding wheel shape

Sharp radius at base of tooth is

condusive to stress fractures

Redress grinding wheel with

proper profile.

Too much or too little set in blade

Vibration and/or stress in the

blade and slow cutting speed

Adjust toothsetter to provide

proper set for material to be
sawn.

Toothsetter setting point strikes

tooth too low

Distorts blade body, creating a

place for fractures to occur

Adjust toothsetter so setting

point contacts tooth properly.

Stored blades allowed to rust

Storing blades without removing
sawdust/sap residue

5-2

Wipe blades dry before storing.

Oxides and acids can cause
mircroscopic damage to the
blade surface

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Clean blade before storing.

Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting
Blade Performance

5.2

Blade Performance
Using the appropriate blade for the species and condition of the wood your sawing is crucial to any sawing operation. Using blades with the wrong profile can cause the blade to
chatter, too much sawdust, slow feed rates, premature blade breakage and premature
dullness. If the appropriate blade is used, sawing performance problems can usually be
attributed to the common causes listed below:
Problem

Wavy cuts

Troubleshooting

Cause

Solution

Sawing too fast

Use slower feed rate.

Sawing too slow (increases sawdust

that isnt cleared from the cut fast
enough)

Use faster feed rate.

Undertensioned blade

Check and adjust blade tension.

Sawdust or pitch buildup on blade or

blade wheels

Clean or replace blade and/or blade

wheel belts.

Blade not properly tracked on blade

wheels

Check and adjjust blade tracking.

Blade guide misalignment

Check and adjust blade guides.

Incorrect drive belt tension

Check and adjust drive belts.

Worn/damaged blade wheel belts

Replace blade wheel belts.

Worn blade wheel crown (beltless steel

blade wheels only)

Replace blade wheels.

Loose or worn blade wheel bearings

Replace blade wheel bearings.

Improperly adjusted mast pads

Adjust mast pads properly.

Blade not parallel to sawmill bed

Align sawhead and bed rails.

Loose blade guide arm

Adjust blade guide arm rollers.

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6-1

5
5.3

Troubleshooting
Special Problem Wood Types or Conditions

Special Problem Wood Types or Conditions

Cutting extremely hard wood

Use the 375 Series (.045 x 1 1/4") or 475 Series (.055 x 1 1/4") blade

Keep set to a minimum - .017" to .019"

Use hook angles between 4 and 10

After using the blade, measure the set on the tooth setter. If inconsistent, the teeth
are flexing (bending) while cutting.

Sometimes will require large quantities of lube to keep the blade free of sap buildup.
This sap buildup will cause a blade to cut inaccurately and break prematurely.

Cutting hardwoods high in silica

Use bi-metal blades or 4 hook angle blades with lubrication.

Cutting extremely pitchy woods

Will sometimes require a chemical agent to be brushed or
sprayed on the blade periodically. (Wood-Mizer lube, liquid soap, vegetable oil and Pine Sol are popular.)
WARNING! Use ONLY water, Wood-Mizer Lube Additive or
windshield washer fluid with the water lube accessory.
Never use flammable fuels or liquids such as diesel fuel. If
these types of liquids are necessary to clean the blade,
remove it and clean with a rag. Failure to do so can damage the equipment and may result in serious injury or
death.

Cutting extremely dry wood

5-2

Use no water. If water is necessary, use as little as possible because water will
cause the wood to swell. You can also try using water between cuts to clean the
blade and shutoff the water while making the cut.

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Troubleshooting

Troubleshooting
Special Problem Wood Types or Conditions

Cutting varied density softwood

Add more hook angle to the blade

Sharpen so the teeth are a minimum 1/4" tall.

Use .050" or .055" thick blades.

Troubleshooting

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5-3

INDEX

B
blade geometry 2-1
face angle 2-6
hook angle 2-5
recommended blade specifications 2-8
tooth height 2-4
tooth set 2-7
blade handling 4-1
coiling the blade 4-1
inverting the blade 4-5
package for shipping 4-8
storing blades 4-7
uncoiling the blade 4-3
blade introduction 1-1
which blade to use 1-3
Wood-Mizer blades 1-2
blade maintenance 3-1
blade life 3-4
general information 3-1
sharpener 3-7
toothsetter 3-8

S
specifications
recommended blade 2-8

T
troubleshooting 5-1
blade breakage 5-1
blade performance 6-1
special conditions/wood types 6-2

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Index