Glam - 2013.02
Glam - 2013.02
2 SMOkED LOOk
urban decay's response to requests for smokey seductive eyes is
a new interpretation of the look which moves away from
traditional grey's and black's opting for tones inspired by
precious stones. this new twist on eye makeup palettes is similar
to what the naked palette has done with its neutral tones.
urban decay has also added a new lip pencil color to its
super-saturated naked range: rose nude. this cult shade is a real
stunner!
3 GLOSS APPEAL
following the success of its naked palettes, urban decay has
added 3 new natural and elegant shades to its "lip junkie" lip
gloss range: naked 2 (beige), strip (mauve nude) and streak
(rose nude).
3
neW retOuch pOWders tO
perk up thOse duLL dAys
this season, bobbi brown reinvents corrective
powders of the past, giving them an updated
look and feel for the future. inspired by the
color pigments used for years by professional
makeup artists, the new retouching powder
instantly makes your skin look better yet it is
completely undetectable. depending on the
shade, you can correct colour, add warmth,
hide redness or brighten dullness.
developed with a sheer, light-transmitting
base, this innovative lightweight powder
instantly brightens and illuminates skin while
reducing excess oil. launching in six colour
correcting shades, retouching powder helps
diminish the appearance of dark spots,
dullness, redness and imperfections.
pretty pinks And reds FOr
A perFect MisMAtch
in keeping with the season, bobbi brown has created special nail
colours for valentine's day called 'pink valentine' and 'valentine
red.' "the pink and red collection isn't about matching your lips,
cheeks and nails. it's about deliberately mismatching. i love pink
and red worn togetherit's a very modern mix" (and perfect for
valentine's day), says bobbi brown. we couldn't agree more.
intrOducinG
hOt WAter niGht
davidoff recently introduced a
distinctly masculine perfume
called hot water night. built
around the duality of grey
amber and oud wood, the new
product is a sensual oriental
spicy fragrance
harrods,
+44 2077301234
these two coloured check fabric, rubber effect
calfskin and top piping on sneakers from lanvin
are the ideal gift for the fashion forward looking
for style and comfort.
set the tOne
setting the mood and
creating a tune befit for
valentine's day, aigner
has contemplated a
romantic edition of sassy
bold with a timepiece-
jewelry duo set in a
special gift box. the
limited edition box
features a dainty
red-strap watch and a
heart-shaped pendant
that sits perfectly at the
center of a gold
necklace. pure, sincere
and gorgeous, who
could ask for more?
speciAL GiFts FOr
thAt speciAL dAy
show your special
someone how special
they are this valentine's
day with this exquisite
selection of gifts for men
and women from lanvin.
/ 27
the new partition bag is the new
signature bag of lanvin. the matt
grained calfskin is the epitome of
luxury. the perfect way to show
her how special she is.
vanity, versace's iconic new watch,
comes out in a special version to
celebrate february 14th. vanity st.
valentine edition, in the most passionate
colour, is a symbol of strong sentiments.
time for the one we love: an allusion to
the importance of every moment
together, summing up all the magic of
our time past and our time to come, and
revealing the desire to spend the rest of
our lives in one another's company.
the red total look of the dial and strap
matches the pink gold of the ip case, in
an irresistible, vibrant, sensual harmony
of colors (though it is also available in
chocolate or with a two-tone metal
bracelet). the fretted decoration, studs
and medusa underline its plucky,
unmistakably versace style.
vALentinO FOr yOur vALentine
in a feminine elegant case, valentino unveils valentina
assoluto eau de parfum and satin body lotion for your
beloved valentine.
surprising and sophisticated, the valentina assoluto
fragrance composes a delicate bouquet blending the
freshness of bergamot, the exuberance of white alba truffle
and the sensual trail blossoms of jasmine and tuberose with
a delicate touch of vanilla. commemorating the valentino
codes of elegance and nude colors, the valentina coffret is
the perfect gift for your valentine. valentina assoluto eau
de parfum 80ml and satin body lotion 200ml are
exclusively available from debenhams and va va voom.
sOphisticAted
And styLish
set the day on fire with
these spectacular pieces
from micheal kors
collection.
A
JOyful
WORLD
compiled by debrina aliyah
cAtAcLOu flat
studs embellished
calf and straw
wedge
1
3
4
5
6
7
2
duFOurA
fuschia neon
sandals
FAridA bOWLer
mid size tote
MArquise
cLutch python
silver
ZOuLOu
platform
heels
MinA
cLutch
gold
spikes
hOt MOuse
decorated
wedge
Colour the
BlaCk
compiled by debrina aliyah
all items available from h&m
a
l
l
i
t
e
m
s
a
v
a
i
l
a
b
l
e
f
r
o
m
n
e
t
-
a
-
p
o
r
t
e
r
spiked drop
earrings - qr25
lanvin crystal-
embellished
satin-covered metal
frame clutch -
qr7300
two tier spiked
necklace - qr54 pair of geometric
bangles - qr36
patent leather
ankle boots - qr181
jimmy choo linda
watersnake
sandals - qr2700
pink ombre oval
clutch with gold
chain - qr108
weston agate
printed silk-
satin scarf - qr900
oscar de la renta
24-karat gold-plated
swarovski crystal
clip earrings - qr1500
/ 29
SAVE
Vs
SPLURGE
GLAM
it uP!
compiled by debrina aliyah
M COlleCtiOn
..
.
fashiOn
rOCks Qatar
1.
2.
/ 31
MOda key
&
COMMOn thread
4.
dana Jewellry
3.
friend
Or
FAUx
alexandra kohUt-
cole
us singer and actress
jennifer lopez arrives for
the film premiere of her
movie maid in manhattan
at the odeon cinema in
leicester square central
london 26 february 2003.
a model presents a
creation by miu miu
during the spring/
summer 2013
ready-to-wear
collection show on
october 3, 2012 in paris.
a model displays a
creation as part of max
mara spring-summer
2013 collection on
september 20, 2012
during the womens
fashion week in milan.
a protestor displays a
banner during an
anti-fur protest by
members of people for
ethical treatment of
animals (peta) during a
display of fashion by
hong kong designer
emily cheong at the
international fashion
designers show in hong
kong, in january 2007.
that animal skin use in fashion is alive and kicking, this season, the
collections offered plenty of fur and animal print. MaxMara featured
animal print shoes, sunglasses and bags; Miu Miu accessorised
exquisitely cut duchess satin-lined denim with huge tie-died fur
stoles slung over the shoulder. Prada sent out a massive white fur coat
adorned with statement Courreges daisies; Saint Laurent paid tribute
to the animal prints of Yves - and Phoebe Philo got everyone talking
with her statement acid bright fur slippers, stilettos and humorously
flat Birkenstock-style sandals lined with, you guessed it, mink, for
Celine. Then there are the brands for which fur is their stock in trade,
the statement furs of multinational luxury couture fur brand Dennis
Basso, for example. And furrier since 1723, Revillon, who sent out
puffa coats lined with Mongolian lamb and pure white fox fur jackets
under the artistic direction of Andrew
Heather, having freshly joined the brand
from Givenchy. The furrier is doing so
well that it will open a store on Paris
Avenue Montaigne soon.
No-animal policy
While plenty of designers worship at the
altar of fur and skins, many swear off
animals all together. Stella McCartney,
perhaps the most famous fashion animal
rights activist and PETA spokesperson,
has always committed herself to a no-
animal policy in her designs, I totally
disagree with any electrocuted animals
on peoples backs, she said backstage
in 2007. OlsenHaus Pure Vegan design
group promotes 100%cruelty-free
alternative fashion materials and UK-
based People Tree, recently created
the animal-friendly Youth Collection
endorsed by actress Emma Watson.
There is no getting away from the fact that the fur debate is an
emotive one. Could the rise of the love of fur be down to celebrities
seen wearing it? Hugely influential in the style stakes Jennifer Lopez,
Beyonce, Madonna, have all been spotted sporting fur, as have fashion
A-list Carine Roitfeld and Anna Wintour. Yet in the celebrity anti-fur
camp, prominent anti-skin activist, former French actress Brigitte
Bardot runs the Brigitte Bardot Foundation for the Welfare and
Protection of Animals; supermodel Christy Turlington is active in the
PETA anti-fur campaign; Victoria Beckham has advocated against the
use of fur in fashion.
And who could forget the shockingly graphic 1984 Lynx poster shot
by David Bailey, of a catwalk model trailing a blood-drenched fur coat
with the slogan It takes up to 40 dumb animals to make a fur coat but
only one to wear it. Lynx co-founder, Lynne Kentish, said We tried
to professionalise the animal rights movement. It was all a bit shabby
up to then. No-one was putting professional-looking campaign stuff
out. Linda McCartney consequently shot its rich bitch; poor bitch
poster, depicting a fur-clad model alongside a dead fox.
This chasm between anti and pro continues to create a colossal
media commotion. Not least this January when Karl Lagerfeld said in
a BBC Radio 4 interview, In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for
shoes and clothes and even handbags, the discussion of fur is childish.
In response, PETA described Lagerfeld as a fashion dinosaur who is
as out of step as his furs are out of style.
The PETA campaign style can be graphic, personal and no holds
barred. It operates a name and shame hall of fame. The actress-
designer Olsen twins have been inducted into this; since fur adds
20 years and 20 pounds, maybe Mary-Kate and Ashley think their
matronly wardrobe will deflect the gossip about bulimia, It says.
Model and actress Elizabeth Hurley has been similarly honoured;
instead of flaunting the remains of animals, this faded siren might
focus on the remains of her career.
But the lines are often blurred. Some have no problem with leather
but are staunchly against fur. Others change allegiance to the cause on
a whim. In 1997, supermodels Naomi Campbell and Cindy Crawford
featured in the famous PETA campaign of the tag line, Id rather go
naked than wear fur, only for them to do a volte-face by signing up to
model Blackglama minks in 2004 and 2007 respectively.
Fashion wars
The pro-fur lobby promotes real
fur as ecologically sustainable and
biodegradable. The International Fur
Trade Federation (IFTF) states that
sales are at an all-time high. In 2010,
sales were over QR50 billion ($14 billion)
worldwide, up 70% from 2000. The
British Fur Trade Association (BFTA),
member of IFTF, informs us in the UK,
there has been a significant growth in fur
sales over the same period and UK sales
this year have increased by over 40%
compared to the previous year.
Citing real over fake fur as the
environment friendly option, the BFTA
states real fur is a natural sustainable
product, delivering rare benefits
in sustaining fragile habitats and
communities. This contrasts with most
fake fur which is manufactured from non-renewable petroleum
based products. The message is that real fur is a durable material -
quite the opposite of disposable fashion. The association found fake
fur was responsible for 50%of toxic nitrous oxide emissions and that
it takes a gallon of oil to produce three fake fur coats.
Back on the catwalk, Russian haute couturier Ulyenka Sergeenkas
military inspired great coats were offset with crazy fur helmet-style
hats. And pre-fall 2013 animal power was even more prevalent with
Tracy Reeses leopard and python, Alberta Ferettis fox fur shrugs
and Giambattista Valli deciding to go the whole hog by showing one
animal look head-to-toe.
Although Lynx was sued and bankrupted in the 90s, anti-fur
movements are thriving - and fur sales are booming. Fur is still a
symbol of unimagined luxury, a statement maker. The fur trade will
have us believe that the use of fur in fashion is a natural, bio-degradable
alternative to faux; while the anti-fur lobby would turn our backs on
the real thing to make us believe that all fur farms are unethical. No
longer a necessity for human survival, animal skin is totally divisive.
Is vintage the only viable option?
Proving
Instead of
flaunting the
remains of animals,
this faded siren
might focus on the
remains of her
career.
GadGet
CHIC
01
02
03
04
06
05
michael by michael
kors horizontal
stripe ipad sleeve
marc jacobs laptop
carrier/satchel bag
marc by marc
jacobs bunny ears
iphone cover
marc by marc
jacobs ombre
tone iphone
cover
lanvin steel
polished copper
tone camera/
phone bag
lanvin crystal
embellished
ipad case
/ 35
desiGned tO win
for
by abigail mathias
images by bridget alexandra
Doha based jewellery designer, Sarah Reece, creativity
is second nature. I have been making jewellery for the
past 16 years and cant ever imagine not spending time at
my workbench, designing jewellery that I envisage other
people wearing, she says.
Her passion is replicated in the handmade jewellery
that has quickly gained recognition in Qatar. A collection
of funky rings, elegant bracelets and chains all bear the
distinct Sarah Reece style. I decided to create pieces that
are less flamboyant. I work predominantly in silver and
prefer it to yellow gold, says Sarah.
This designer has always been lured towards jewellery
making. After my degree, I realised that my love for
jewellery and gem stones by far outweighed my passion
for anything else. I decided to undertake a 10-week
Introduction to Jewellery course at Central St. Martins
in London. Having thoroughly enjoyed the course, I then
completed my diploma in Jewellery Making at City and
Islington University, she says. This was followed by a
Higher National Diploma (HND) in Jewellery Making and
/ 37
Allied Crafts at London Guildhall University.
For my final piece of course work I was awarded a
bursary which enabled me to make the ultimate piece
of jewellery and explore techniques that I wouldnt have
ordinarily been able to use. Upon completion of my HND
I was given an award by the British Jewellers Association,
she adds, proudly.
Designing for the Middle East market fascinates Reece.
She says, Doha is a really different market unlike the UK.
Contemporary jewellery is not something you see a lot of
in this region and Im so happy to have repeat customers.
Ive been working on pieces for someone who bought a
piece from us a year ago when she got married. She now
wants me to design stuff for five of her bridesmaids. So Im
working on the symbol of eternity set on to pearls.
She adds, I thoroughly enjoy being commissioned to
make pieces as I find it interesting to meet people and
work with them to produce something that represents their
beliefs, loves, and personality.
Thanks to a feature in GLAM, inquiries started pouring
in and I began to conducts classes, says the designer,
adding, It is nice to see people reach a level where they
can do it on their own, almost like myself.
Business partner Kirsty Salazar manages the marketing
aspect of the jewellery line. She has also taken one of
Reeces classes. She says, Though I love jewellery, I realise
it takes a lot of patience to make a piece of jewellery.
Not one to follow seasonal trends, Sarah Reece Jewellery
pieces are one off items. I believe investing your money in
jewellery is more profitable to designer wear that may go
out of style, she says.
In my quest to find unusual and exclusive gem stones, I
often travel to parts of the world where particular stones are
unique to that place. This search has taken the designer
to Thailand, the Seychelles, and the Dominican Republic.
I take my inspiration from the Art Nouveau movement as
well as from my surroundings,
specifically flora and fauna,
says Sarah.
Working from her home
workshop in Doha, each piece
of jewellery that Reece makes
comes with a story. I remember
exactly what Ive gone through
to make it.
Speaking about using ethically
sourced stones Sarah says, If
people arent aware of where
their jewellery and clothing
comes from, they should be.
Personally, I would not buy a
conflict diamond. The stones I
use are harmless. Keeping the
environment in mind is equally
important. Salazar says, Its
not just the jewellery but how we
display the pieces that counts
too. We try to incorporate used
stones and coral, all the stuff
that is washed up on shores, in
our displays. We try and make it
feel a bit more natural by using
natural pieces.
SARAH REECE jEWELLERY IS AVAILABLE AT THE FOuR SEASONS HOTEL, THE MATHAF (ARAB
MuSEuM OF MODERN ART) AND DADOS SALOON.
images shot at the four seasons hotel where the jewellery is available.
prices available on request.
1glass bead flower bracelet, round resin ring, black resin with white dot ring 2black round resin pendant on oval link chain; purple resin ring; sterling silver squiggle necklace on grey
freshwater pearls and silk thread 3sterling silver and resin bracelet; orange agate earrings available at the four seasons (price on request) 4ametrine and sterling silver necklace; turquoise
boulder necklace with semi-precious drops 5lucky charm bracelet, yellow turquoise ring, flower ring
If people arent
aware of where
their jewellery
and clothing
comes from,
they should be.
Personally, I
would not buy a
conflict diamond.
1
2
4
3
5
/ 39
THAT
TRANSCENDS
TIME
was a time when every piece of jewellery was painstakingly crafted
and lovingly guarded to be passed on from one generation to another.
A stark contrast from modern days more is more concept of
accessorising, every piece of jewellery held its own significance and
value garnering a sense of appreciation deeper than just meets the
eye. While the couture jewellery industry is a little less talked about
than its fashion counterpart, the sense of revival is strong with many
connoisseurs seeking out the experience of crafting highly customised
luxury gems. Couture jeweller Bina Goenka is one such talent, driving
the force of creating timeless pieces and redefining the meaning of
luxury jewellery.
Tell us about the inspiration behind your brand
My inspiration has always stemmed from the magnanimous glory
of nature in sync with the abstract renditions of geometry, and the
wonder created by the amalgamation of the two. Inspiration is also
drawn from my client, who is supremely confident, is a trendsetter.
and who exudes the essence of contemporary elegance. She trusts me
to design something to match her needs and personality.
How has the couture jewellery industry evolved in recent years? What are
some of your new markets?
The couture jewellery industry has always been existent and is
there
by debrina aliyah
evolving even more strongly now. Today people
understand workmanship, quality and expertise. More
and more people want design and bespoke pieces.
Middle Eastern and European markets are our prime
targets.
Can you explain the process of designing a bespoke piece for
your clients? How do you cultivate your relationship with
them to understand what they would like?
My clients trust me implicitly to create a statement piece
of jewellery that will do them justice. It is a mixture of
their personality and my design aesthetics. The process
usually entails my client explaining what they have in
mind and then the rest is left to me. There is, of course,
a synergy of thoughts that leads to the final creation.
It is a relationship based on trust and experience and
slowly experimenting with styles that we feel would
suit them. Each piece of jewellery created is a journey,
and the client is involved in the process at every stage.
Do you currently have a market in the Middle East? How
do you think the Middle Eastern culture and beauty might
inspire your pieces?
Yes, I have clients across the whole of the GCC region
and I envision a 2013 launch in the Middle East as
part of our expansion plans. The basic flavour of my
jewellery synergises itself seamlessly with the Middle
Eastern market. I have always been an ardent admirer
of the Arab womans fashion sense - their distinct sense
of style and their flamboyance. I am an avid traveller
and have always been exposed to the fine quality and
intricate designs by the worlds best jewellers and the
Middle East is no different.
How would you advise your clients to choose couture
jewellery pieces that will eventually be heirlooms for the
next generation?
My customers, no matter where they are geographically
located, are very similar. My jewellery pieces are not
subject to any particular country or region but rather
have a universal appeal. My pieces are created for the
trendsetter and they exude the essence of elegance
whilst retaining a timeless and classic feel. Therefore
my pieces transcend time and geographical locations to
become an heirloom in itself.
What is your personal style like?
Strong, uncluttered and flamboyant.
How would you style your jewellery pieces for day-to-day
wear basis or for a special occasion outfit?
All my pieces work well with formal as well as smart
casuals as the women who I design for wears jewellery
easily as their personality is intrinsically flamboyant.
How can interested clients in Qatar contact you?
Welcome parties can either visit my flagship store
in Mumbai at the Grand Hyatt Hotel personally or
alternatively get in touch through my website www.
binagoenka.com
My
Jewellery
pieces are not subject
to any particular
country or region
but rather have a
universal appeal.
fOr
the
lOVe
Of
BaGs
bAGsnOb:
by debrina aliyah
/ 41
fashion girl walks a fine line between functionality
and style when it comes to buying bags. While we
secretly covet the most practical jumbo carry-all that
is lightweight, the temptation of the butter soft calf
leather with crazy studs lures us over to the dark side.
And if that is not dilemma enough, these days, we seek
out pieces that might be a vintage treasure, investment
pieces that will last a lifetime, special
leathers that might be worthy of an
heirloom versus everything that is
fun and trendy. So who should we
seek advice from on matters such as
this?
Two bag-obsessed style
personalities, Tina Craig and Kelly
Cook, started BagSnob, a blog
focusing on bag editorials, a few
years back as a fun platform for
bag fans to discuss and share their
common love of bags. But what
makes them different from many
other bloggers is their genuine
passion and knowledge for all things
bag-related. The approach was
friendly and readers could relate
to their personalised voice on each
bag they wrote about. The blog
today has expanded to include other
accessories and comes under the
Snob Media Global umbrella. For
Glam's special accessories issue,
Tina and Kelly talk about their
obsession.
How is the chemistry between the two of you? How does
the friendship translate into the running of Snob Media
Global?
We complement each other perfectly, we have
different strengths and weaknesses and those
combined seems to make the ideal team. Having your
best friend as a partner has allowed us to do the kind
of give and take that is essential to any partnership, we
don't argue about the small things and always cover
each other's back. The support system has been the
only way we have been able to build this company
while raising our children.
The blog has become one of the biggest fashion
reference points today. What has been some memorable
achievements, milestones for you?
Our first milestone was being in British Vogue, that
was incredible especially because that was in our first
year. We always love it when notable fashion editors
(who shall remain nameless) come to us for advice on
what bags to buy. The interaction with our fans has
been our most valued achievement. Someone told
us she has saved money over the years by following
our advice of buying investment pieces, so instead of
buying five to six throw away bags a year, she buys one
or two bags that she will keep forever.
What was it like to collaborate with established names
such as DKNY and DL1961? Did you imagine that the
blog would have been such a success and gathered so much
clout?
That was the most fun we had! It allowed us to use
our expertise in a creative process. The best part was
working with industry leaders and experts who do all
the boring stuff like production tech packs, while we
focused on the fun part, design!
What should fashion blogs do to maintain credibility and
be taken seriously?
Passion! Passion! Passion! Without it you will not
be able to excite your readers. It is something that
cannot be faked. Also, fact checking. Like all credible
journalists, you have to make sure the information you
are giving is true.
Can you share with us how you two have turned the blog
eVery
Our first
milestone
was being
in British
Vogue,
that was
incredible
especially
because that
was in our
first year.
into Snob Media Global, consolidating and monetising
it, making it a true breakthrough in the world of fashion
blogging?
We were very lucky with our timing, we were one
of the first professional fashion blogs on the scene,
so we were able to capture a very loyal following.
Our readers are true shoppers because we aim to be
informative and helpful with our reviews, it isn't just
about what we are wearing ourselves; it is also about
the bags and products we feature. Our readers are
not only interested in what they should be wearing,
but what we are wearing as well which we share with
them through social media channels like Twitter and
Instagram. This has been a huge factor in why we
have been able to successfully monetise, we have the
biggest luxury shoppers in the world coming to us to
see what to buy next.
It also helps that we are both business-minded
people who also love fashion. We have always
conducted ourselves professionally and it has opened
a lot of doors for us. When people meet us, they expect
us to be vapid young girls and they are pleasantly
surprised to discover that we know how to run a
business.
What is your personal style like?
Kelly I am sporty and casual. I love to dress up but
even so, I am a mini skirt or leather pants kind of girl. I
do love a good maxi-dress here and there.
Tina Eclectic. I love mixing high- low, and am
addicted to vintage couture. Roland Mouret and
Victoria Beckham dresses are my go to basics as are
super skinny DL 1961 x Bag Snob jeans.
What are your all-time favourite Day and Night Bags?
Kelly Day: Hermes Evelyn; Night: a crocodile clutch
Tina Day: Hermes Kelly bag the optional
shoulder/crossbody straps make it easy to use no
matter what my day is like. Night: Alexander McQueen
skull clutches in different incarnations
we
were
very lucky
with our
timing, we
were one
of the first
profession-
al fashion
blogs on the
scene, so we
were able
to capture
a very loyal
following.
/ 43
44 \
STYLING
tiPs
01
WhAt Advise WOuLd yOu GirLs
Give tO sOMebOdy WhOs
stArtinG Out A bAG
cOLLectiOn? sOMe tips FOr An
investMent cOLLectiOn, And
sOMe tips FOr A FAshiOn
cOLLectiOn.
this is a very good question and is
the reason why we created the five
essentials strategy for collecting
bags: tote, treasure, trendy, travel
and clutch. you must have one of
each of these and from there you
can expand especially in the tote
and the clutch categories.
as far as specific bags for your
collection, it all depends on your
budget and preference. we prefer
brands that offer lifelong
classics; chanel (classic flap or
2.55), hermes (birkin or kelly),
bottega veneta (veneta or cabas),
valextra (namaste or babila). these
are true investments, in price and
longevity. in the long run, it will
pay off.
02
this phenOMenOn OF 'it' bAGs
WhAt dO yOu tWO reALLy
think AbOut this? dO yOu
think its WOrth it thAt We
rush Out every tiMe A neW
bAG cOMes ALOnG?
definitely, do not rush out and buy
every declared 'it' bag. there are
many reasons but the most
important ones to keep in mind are:
it is deemed by opinion not fact; it
will most likely be a flash in the
pan; and it will be on everyone's
arms so why would you spend a lot
money on something everyone
including counterfeiters will have?
but having said that, if it is a bag
that you love and obsess over, get
it. always have your own reasons
other than what the masses tell
you.
03
On A dAiLy bAsis, hOW dO yOu
decide Which bAGs tO use FOr
the dAy?
fashion and function. it obviously
needs to go with what i'm wearing
(which is dependent on mood) and
where i am going. if i am going to
disneyland with my kids and even
though my birkin is the perfect way
to dress up my tee shirt and jeans, i
will not be carrying that to an
amusement park. but mostly, it is
how i feel.
04
WhAt dO yOu hAve in yOur
bAGs At the MOMent? the
truth, WhAt dO yOu FAbuLOus
GirLs FiLL yOur bAGs With?
kELLY- wallet, iphone, cosmetic
pouch, baby wipes (you can never
get over the convenience of them
even after diapers), some game/toy/
activity for the kids, keys but never
a pen, which can explode and lead
to a very broken hearted bag snob!
TINA- a very handy bag organiser
from jane finds.com called the
baginizer. it holds my wallet,
iphone, cosmetic pouch, as well as
pens pouches so when it does
explode- only the bagnizer is
stained! it also makes it very easy
for me to change bags from day to
day or night.
GlaM
trend
rePOrt
compiled by debrina aliyah
GeOMetry
01
46 \
03
02
lOOk east
Mesh
PenCil
skirts
04
/ 47
THE
CONDUCTOR
OF HAUTE
COUTURE
bALenciAGA:
by debrina aliyah
to a seamstress mother who worked for Spanish high
society, Balenciaga quickly learned the intricacies of fine
European fashion through his mothers clients. Growing up
in such an environment cultivated his love for the art which
naturally steered him in the direction of haute couture.
After finishing his apprenticeship in San Sebastian, he
began working at Grandes Almacenes Au Louvre and
quickly rose through the ranks due to his talent. In 1914,
he moved to Bordeaux, France to work in a tailoring shop.
A few years later, Balenciaga opened his own house back
in San Sebastian and thus began his career in designing for
the high society of Spain. Working with the silhouettes of
the time which were still very much influenced by Victorian
elements, Balenciaga counted numerous diginitaries,
including Queen Maria Cristina and Infanta Isabel
Alfonsa, as his supporters. He ran a haute couture salon
alongside a dressmaking establishment which flourished
until the proclamation of the Second Spanish Republic.
The new state led to the exile of many of his customers
while social and political circumstances did not permit the
luxury of haute couture.
The study of Balenciagas work at this period of time
is one that is intertwined with Spains political journey.
Changing the strategy of his business, he focused on
simple dressmaking and subsequently opened stores
in Madrid and Barcelona. However, the outbreak of the
Spanish Civil War halted his progress and Balenciaga left
for Paris where he resumed couture work. On August 5,
1936, he presented his first haute couture collection at 10
Avenue George V in Paris to wide acclaim. This marked
the beginning of Balenciagas fame as possibly one of the
best couturiers who have ever lived. At this juncture of
son
/ 49
his career Balenciaga had worked towards deep historical
influence and understanding of his culture with collections
that referenced 17th-century fashion of the Second French
Empire as well as historical Spanish fashion. He focused
on spectacular evening wear adorned with magnificent
embroidery and passementerie which was a staple of
high society in Spain. However, as the years progressed,
Balenciaga became increasingly experimental and began
working on new silhouettes that were rather forward
thinking.
alenciagas most important
contribution to fashion
silhouettes included the
introduction of the barrel line
and the sack dress, which was
an antithesis to the New Look
popularised by Christian Dior
at that period of time. This
remains one of the most pivotal
creations in fashion history as
it was Balenciaga who gave rise
to this alternative silhouette that is now much adopted
by contemporary avant garde designers. While the New
Look celebrated femininity that very much referred to a
standard hourglass figure, the shapeless form created
by Balenciaga was a design that flattered all body types.
The shapeless form instead brought the focus back into
symmetrical tailoring and fabric manipulation.
Balenciaga continued his work in creating abstract and
clean forms and in 1958, textile house Abraham created
a high-twist double yarn plain weave fabric with a crisp
texture called Gazar to cater to the designers highly
sculptural work. He went on to present more interesting
new works including short jackets and increasingly more
abstract pieces throughout the rest of his career. Balenciaga
presented his last collection in spring 1968 and passed
away peacefully in 1972 right after working on a specially
commissioned wedding dress for the future Duchess of
Cadiz.
The House of Balenciaga Today
In 1986, Jacques Bogart acquired the rights to Balenciaga
and opened a new ready-to-wear line with the first
collection designed by Michael Goma. In 1992, Josephus
Thimister began work at the house shaping what the
brand would be today. Five years later, Nicolas Ghesquiere
took over the helm and the brand catapulted into the
limelight again retaining a signature look that is edgy and
sophisticated.
Balenciaga is now owned by the Gucci Group as part of
PPR and Alexander Wang has just been named the new
creative director for the brand.
all images
courtesy of museo
balenciaga, spain
B
dita VOn
teese:
a thinG Of Beauty
/ 51
translucent porcelain skin with just the right shade
of red on the lips is the one and only image of Dita
Von Teese that will ever imprint on your mind. The
glamorous multi-talented beauty carefully considers
her look and unlike most celebrities who change their
styles throughout their career, she sticks to the makeup
that works best. Her perfect appearance has won her
many beauty and fashion fans through the years, having
played the spokesperson role for major brands including
the prolific M.A.C Viva Glam campaign that focused
on helping people living with HIV & AIDS as well as for
PETA in speaking for ethical treatment of animals. She
has also appeared numerous times on best-dressed lists
and is frequently spotted on the front row of fashion
shows including Christian Dior and Marc Jacobs. And if
she is not on the front row, then she lends her star appeal
to the catwalk as a model. Dita strutted the runways of
major fashion weeks wearing the designs of Giambattista
Valli, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Jean Paul Gaultier, and
Vivienne Westwood.
Despite all the glitz and glamour, Dita admits that she
still dresses herself and does her own makeup instead of
using a fashion and beauty team. It is no wonder that she
has gone on to launch her own vintage-inspired fashion
line and a cosmetic collaboration with German brand Art
Deco. Her fashion collection, sold exclusively via vintage
retailer Decades, is a selection of gorgeous and elegant
understated pieces that is modest yet sexy at the same
time. And if you are looking to recreate her perfect make-
up routine, Classics, her makeup collaboration with Art
Deco will have all the right tools to pull off the look.
The poster girl for body confidence, says that the
secret behind her confidence, lies in loving yourself for
who you are and making the best of what youve got. The
Queen of Burlesque, known for her risque vintage style,
and the spectacular shows she puts on without so much
as flinching, lets us in on the secret ingredients required
to hone stellar confidence.
On Confidence
Ive never had any fear of performing or being on
stage. I always have a great time when I bring my own
that
personality to the show. Even letting people see my
vulnerability helps with making the performance more
real. Trying to be someone else comes across as being
forcefully sexy. I think confidence is sexy because you can
tell when someone sticks up for themselves, and thats
attractive. Its really important to accept yourself for the
way you are. You know, a friend of mine once told me that
no matter how bad youre feeling, dont let anyone see it.
This works really well, especially when Ive come off stage
and havent had such a good show. Ive learned to accept
compliments gracefully even if things havent gone the
way I wanted them to. Its important to do that because
no-one really wants to hear you complain and crib. Youll
come across as someone who needs others to make you
feel good about yourself. Not good. Its fresh when you see
someone graciously accepting feedback and growing from
it.
On Self-Doubt
Its important to remember that we all have moments of
self-doubt. I feel that my body on stage is different from my
body at home or in my bedroom. Its a different experience
being naked in front of someone versus standing up on
stage in front of a group of people.
Thankfully, I dont really need to prepare right before I go
on stage, and thats mostly because everything about the
show is very controlled-from the costume to the lighting
and sound set-up...even my body. Its all very calculated,
so I dont really have feelings of self-doubt about my body
on stage. I wouldnt say that Im always over confident
about my body but I never really have to talk myself into it.
If ever I have a day when I feel less than sexy, I do
everything to undo that feeling-from putting on my
favourite dress to taking the extra time and care to fix my
hair. What always helps is choosing clothes and lighting
that make you feel great about yourself and the way you
look.
On Lovin What You Got
I try to be grateful for everything I have. Sometimes I wish
I had a little bit more of this... or a little less of that, but
then I think about all the positives that I have and am very
thankful for them.
Its important to take care of what youve got. For
example, I get a lot of compliments on my skin. So I always
use sunscreen, Im careful not to get too much sun, and
I visit a dermatologist regularly because my skin is very
sensitive. Ive also been blessed with a good body (same
as my mother), so to maintain it, I start my day with a
workout. I think more than what it does physically, I feel
better about myself mentally.
Of course there are parts of my body Im not particularly
happy with, but I never point them out, especially not to
other women. It can start a very negative cycle. My biggest
issue right now is that Im getting
thinner. I wish I were a little curvier.
I exercise a lot and eat well, mostly
because I want to feel strong.
Even for walking in high heels, my
workouts help! I think high heels
are definitely a key to confidence.
They are the best thing you can
do for your shape. They change
the way you carry yourself, your
posture, and eventually, the way
you look. The one make-up trick
that always leaves me feeling more
confident is a swipe of red lipstick.
I feel dressed up and ready-to-go
when I dont have time for the rest
of it. Basically, find what suits you
and what you like, and stick to it.
On the Importance of Lingerie
I have all my costumes custom-
made. Theyre made to come off in
layers that are flattering. I dont feel
comfortable in itty-bitty lingerie. I
like stockings and garters because
of the way they look on my thighs.
Its sexy. So pick what you think will
flatter you and make you feel sexier.
I think every woman should have at least one really nice
set of lingerie. Try building a lingerie wardrobe. Black lace
is always sexy and chic. Remember, when you go lingerie
shopping, buy the bikini bottom matching the bra. The
complete look is guaranteed to make you feel sexier and
thus, more confident!
credits
meher bajwa/ the interview people
/ 53
Its important
to remember
that we all
have moments
of self-doubt.
I feel that my
body on stage is
different from
my body at
home or in my
bedroom.
DESIGNING
FOR
art
by debrina aliyah
we love most about emerging designers
from this part of the world is the limitless
imagination and ideas that go beyond the
norm of contemporary everyday wear.
Perhaps it is the need to break away from
the uniform traditional attire, or perhaps it
is the environment that conjures fantasy in
the form of escapism. Whatever it is, we are
embracing them with wide open arms and
our current favourite is Qatari designer, Salz
A Rahman.
what
the new
COlleCtiOn
"My new collection explores the happier side
as compared to the previous collection which
was very dark. I wanted to bring excitement
to the classic suit and give it a sportier edge.
The designs brings life to the classic suit so
that younger clients can look smart without
coming across as too serious or boring."
/ 55
the desiGn
JOurney
"I started designing because I wanted to
inspire my mother and sister to think out of
the box and to explore their creative side.
I wanted to show them that everything is
possible. My humble start and the positive
feedback from others have pushed them
now to start designing for Salzakih Couture.
I appointed my mother as the Managing
Director and got my sister involved in the
company too. I literally wanted to bring us
together in something we love to do. My
designs are always going to be a bit edgy
and would only appeal maybe to a more
daring customer. I always say that I design
for art rather than business but it has to be
wearable."
shOP nOw
"I am still on the hunt for the best place
that I might partner with to showcase my
designs. Designing and marketing menswear
is still a very tricky business in this city, but I
am accepting custom orders. You can get me
at info@salzakih.com and we can sit them
down and discuss how I can best tailor the
design to your taste. I understand each client
is an individual and wants to feel special."
/ 57
by sindhu nair
Challenge your
imagination
puMA GOes sustAinAbLe
esign has taken us by storm. We wear designer shoes, live in designed spaces and
in cities that are designed for optimum comfort. In an era where everything gets
design-conscious, sustainable design gets popular too. Puma, with its creative
streak, has come up with a brilliant concept that brings together community,
triggers ingenuity, while driving home the sustainable message in fashion and
design as well. In its latest initiative Puma has challenged some select designers
by giving them the opportunity to work with Lumi: the ink that has brought the
traditional photographic process into the real world, not the dark room.
/ 59
WhAt is LuMi?
the lumitype is simple and effective, take a picture and turn it into a
black and white negative by photocopying the image and printing it
on a transparent film, which creates a high density negative. take
the fabric you want to print on, working best on natural fibres like
cotton or silk and apply a thin layer of the dye onto the material,
take your negative and pin it right on top. move this outside and
watch the sun develop your print, as the colour appears in about 10
minutes and becomes permanent. simple.
TO SuPPORT AND SHARE THE CONCEPT OF PuMA CREATIVE FACTORY 3: love
thy planet - puma has selected an inspiring group of ambassadors
from across the globe to take part in the project, by using their
experiences, passions and skill to inspire others .
by partnering with key environmental artists and activists, puma
middle east brought sustainability to life with an environmental
and creative army.
glam finds out the fashion quotient of these designers.
Tell us more about the challenge?
Puma Creative Factory 3: Love thy Planet is an initiative
developed and created by Puma to help raise awareness
of sustainability through design. Puma partnered with
WildLife Works in Africa who provided 100% organic
cotton tees for the project and Lumi - who developed the ink
we used, which develops in natural sunlight. Puma selected
a group of advocates from the region, including myself to
get involved in the project, which involved designing our
own tee and tote bags.
What insights do you bring into it?
As a full time photographer making a living in the arts, I have
a great appreciation for exploring creative ways to express
ideas. Going back to thinking about printing negatives, and
the impact of high contrast images on printing, was a great
way of going back to basics considering the digital world we
live in today. Being involved in this project has allowed me
to work side-by-side with my peers to express ourselves in
our own way. A designer, an illustrator and a photographer
all have very different ways of viewing negatives and how
to use different shapes and patterns to produce an image.
Define creativity in the context of this project. Describe projects
that out did your expectations.
We each got the opportunity to express what Love thy
planet means to us by taking images or making designs
that were printed as negatives. After we decided on our
designs, we were able to use the Lumitype process to print
our images onto tees and totes. It was great to watch the
colours change and to see your image imprinted on the
materials, by reacting to natural sunlight.
01
SAY CHEESE
nAdine AL kOudsi
a half iraqi/half syrian talented female photographer.
check out her photography on www.shootnadine.com.
How are you contributing to the challenge?
I am a fashion and accessory designer in the region and
as the project involved creating bespoke designs on
sustainable tees and totes with the freedom to develop and
give your own interpretation of sustainability. Not only is
sustainability an issue that I believe should be at the top
of everyones agenda for 2013, but by taking part in this
project, I had the opportunity to join the creative movers
and shakers of the region in voicing the importance of
sustainability. With Pumas help, we succeeded in sending
an important message to the region.
Tell us about Shoreditch Muse? How popular is the online store?
Shoreditch Muse is a platform for new designers in the
Middle East. I select up-and-coming emerging labels from
around the globe and sell them exclusively in Dubai. At
the moment we sell at events and on February 13, we are
collaborating with Make Business Hub in Dubai to be one
of their first designer collectives at their Make store. We are
progressing at a good pace, building awareness about our
labels and showcasing around Dubai. So far the response
has been fantastic!
Tell us about the fashion scene in the region?
We are at the beginning of something special happening in
the region, and there are new opportunities for designers
coming up thick and fast. Theres an opportunity in the
region for a great fashion scene, which isnt being fully
utilised at the moment, but change is coming.
How would you describe your label, your collection?
For the new collection and re-branding of my label, the
collections will be much more conceptual - creating
separates for day to evening. I am going to re-launch with a
capsule collection which will be the epitome of the ultimate
wardrobe. The new collection is inspired by German/
American architect, Mies Van der Rohe. He strived to re-
create a classic look for his era using minimal, simplistic
and clever design with modern materials and re-defined
modernity in design. I have translated his concepts and am
very excited about the upcoming re-launch in Feb 2013.
Women will be able to get a beautiful balance of modern
and feminine pieces.
02
A BURGEONING
FASHION ENVIRONMENT
debOrAh henninG
deborah is a fashion designer and founder of shoreditch muse, which bring
niche labels to the middle east. deborah has designed for her own label as well
as for international brands.
check her out on www.shoreditchmuse.com
We love your brand identity and the concept. How was the idea
born?
My whole life Ive been creative and looked for ways to ex-
press myself. Im a collector of second hand clothing, but I
knew I had to redesign these pieces to suit todays busy and
practical lifestyle. When I followed my husband to the UAE, I
knew Dubai was the right place and time.
I couldnt find what I was looking for in the shops here,
so I started redesigning and took up sewing again and the
collection grew from there. I call it redesigning because so
much has already been done in history. I design for a range
of nationalities and different shapes of women, so I knew
I couldnt work with standard sizes. Only when a piece fits
you, youll love it and itll survive over time.
How well has the concept worked?
The concept is working perfectly! The collection is continu-
ously growing and changing, and thats how I want it. I sell
my collection directly, so an individual hosts a party, invites
her friends and I present the collection. Women are free to
order anything, in their size and in the fabric they prefer.
Aside from this I host monthly Quenb parties at my place. A
selection of the collection has been on sale in a few boutiques
and I hope to continue stocking my collection in different lo-
cations. If all goes well, there might even be a Little b col-
lection. I have already created a few items for boys and girls
and they were very popular.
Tell us about Puma Creative Factory and your inputs in it?
It was a creative challenge to picture this critical theme and
include it in my designs. The concept of the project was un-
usual and it grabbed peoples attention - and from a design
viewpoint it was the first time I had experienced working
with the innovative Lumi Ink.
Tell us about your style quotient? Whats your fashion statement?
I try to wear colour every day, it adds to life! So: colour, co-
lour, colour! My philosophy is that colour helps you look and
feel better. My style is smart-casual, retro, comfortable, fem-
inine and timeless all in one. I love a piece that can be worn
for many occasions, with a few small changes in accessories,
or through mixing and matching with other pieces.
03
CREATIVITY THROUGH
REDESIGNING
Griet vAn den AuWeLAnt
designer and co-founder of quenb, a womens fashion label made in the uae,
for the uae market, minimising its ecological footprint. check out her fashion
line at www.quenb.com
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We drAW sOMe OF the MOst distinctive beAuty
cOncepts OF diFFerent cuLtures, the JApAnese
GeishA And the indiAn Odissi And set theM AGAinst
the rAW stOneWAshed surrOundinGs OF the ArAbiAn
sOuq. tO Finish it OFF, the MOdeLs dOn GOrGeOus
seLect pieces OF verA WAnGs pre-FALL 2013
cOLLectiOn in An Ode tO the diversity And cOLLisiOn
OF inFLuences in tOdAys FAshiOn WOrLd.
Clash
/ 63
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/ 71
Music
I am listening to Alt-J, XX band, 90s jungle
music, reggae based music inspired by my
20-year-old son. It is very eclectic and not
quite reflective of my age.
destinAtiOn
I would love to go back to the Seychelles
Island. It is idyllic with white sand and gi-
ant tortoises - a real rarity these days. Also
looking forward to visiting South America,
definitely. I visit the Middle East and Asia
a lot for work and have not had the chance
to visit South America, so it is definitely on
my list.
hOMe
I have been spending a lot of time working
on my new home. It is an early Victorian vil-
la. I had it stripped out to refurnish and re-
design the interiors. Finally after two years,
the work is done!
There is a lot of mid-century furniture. I
went to a lot of Italian and French auctions
to get contemporary arts and paintings.
styLe
I love wearing Lanvin, it is quirky yet classic.
I have always loved fashion but after a cer-
tain age I have to tone it down. I was defi-
nitely a childhood punk. Grew up in late 70s
with new romanticism and all that jazz. Im
really not your average 50-year-old jeweller.
peOpLe
I love Alber Ebaz - he is creative and has
done a brilliant job for Lanvin. Also love all
the Japanese designers including Comme
De Garcons. Basically I love people who
stick to their guns and do not get dragged
off course for commercial reasons.
qAtAr
I love the Museum of Islamic Arts which I
have visited several times. The architecture
is amazing and inspiring.
Live Life
kinG-size
by debrina aliyah
.
. .
by debrina aliyah
fashiOn
Crusade
Heralding
a regional
/ 73
see how Muscat will eventually be the regional fashion hub
that it is vying for. Some of the best showings at the recent
Muscat Fashion Week 2013 came from its homegrown
designers who demonstrated a certain level of capacity
that gave a hint of something bigger, perhaps a strike at
international markets. The exceptional passion and support
of the Muscat Municipality, the organisers of the fashion
week, also proves the states intent in creating a platform for
fashion beyond just staging a glamourous affair.
This is the third year the event has been running and 2013
shines the spotlight on 12 region-based designers from the
UAE, Tunisia, Qatar, Saudi Arabia, Jordan, Morocco and
of course, Oman. The selection of designers was varied
and included labels of different influences and appealing
to different segments of the market. While the commercial
sectors were well-represented by familiar names like DAS
Collection and Mauzen, Tunisian designer Ahmed Talfit was
the vanguard of an exciting new design movement from the
region. The eclectic fashion perspective that was sent down
the runway is such a promising indication of the creative
campaign that is bubbling away in the region.
But what really struck a chord with me after reviewing
all the collections was the ability of these designers to
preserve the Arabian elements of their heritage and merge
with it international silhouettes. There is a tendency for
regional designers to make a distinction between designing
traditionally or exclusively in the contemporary genre.
Plainly speaking, the question always revolves around, Are
you an abaya designer or not? But what the collections at the
event had proved was that it is possible to now present the
Arab design in a modern light that would appeal to a wider
audience. Omani stalwarts Afaf and Aida Al Farsi of the label
Dibaj married the colourful and vivid fabrics of their heritage
with soft feminine cuts of the Victorian era.
Having said that, not all collections were deliberated for a
global audience. The sartorial framework of the Arab world
is such that the traditional influence will always remain
consistent and unique to the region.
Set against the gorgeous landscape of Al-Riyam Park, with
the catwalk sandwiched between rock formations and a
lake, Muscat Fashion Week 2013 is a new glimmering light
for designers bridging the future of fashion with their rich
complex heritage.
i can
using the gorgeous
natural landscape as
part of the event.
the set-up at
al riyam park
macs senior artist
vimi joshi at work
backstage
exhibition space for
designers to meet
buyers
rehearsals
underway
renowned fashion
journalist hillary
alexander and
fashion blogger tala
samman at the event
THE QATAR
REPRESENTATION:
tOuJOuri
the talented lama el-moatassem of
toujouri spearheaded the team to
represent qatar at the event
presenting a select edit of the
brands spring summer 2013
collections which had already
been snapped up by trade buyers in
paris. the collection, named
reflections, had strong accents
of shades of green with intricate
beading details on soft feminine
cuts. at the exhibition post-show,
lama says her metallic belts went
off the shelves like hot cakes.
FuN AND FLIRTY
rAZAn ALAZZOuni
this saudi-based designer has
already garnered fans among
celebrities including emma roberts,
kelly osbourne and ashley tinsdale.
the collection had a fun and flirty
attitude perusing floral appliques
and flouncy cuts. beyond the young
vibes underlies strong fabric
manipulation techniques from the
designer who had obviously
benefited much from her excellent
artistic formal training in fine arts.
01
02
STRONG
OMANI ROOTS
dibAJ
sisters afaf and aida al farsi form the
design powerhouse of oman, dibaj. the
luxurious collection of capes, flowing
dresses and drape cuts are consistent in
their all-yearlong fashion calendar. we
are working around the clock, not only
two seasons a year but also for
wedding seasons and eid! says afaf.
there were stunning pieces in velvet
which is a staple for omani women but
reinterpreted in modern jumpsuits and
dresses. dibaj couture also pays homage
to some serious jewellery pieces that
finds its roots in omani culture.
03
BEYOND ABAYAS
MAuZAn
the much established mauzan
spearheaded by sheikha rafia helal bin
drai and her daughter, mauzan who she
named the brand after, needs no
introduction. shortly after showing at
paris, mauzan made a beeline to her
workshop to create an entire new
collection for muscat. i gave it much
thought and decided i should come up
with new pieces for this show. this is
the first time i have shown an all new
fabric that i created with the ateliers in
europe. we are definitely moving beyond
abayas now. we now reach out to
women from all around the world who
would look at the abaya as a fashion
item rather than as a cultural
garment, sheikha rafia says.
04
FuTuRISTIC AND FuNkY
AhMed tALFit
without a doubt, ahmed talfits
collection was the most
anticipated show at the event by
fashion editors. the tunisian
designer had already made a mark
within industry circles as the
avant-garde boy wonder. he
presented a deeply mysterious and
meaningful collection focusing
on structural forms and bodycon
silhouettes. i was particularly
taken by the use of athletic
kneeguards as shoulder pads. and
though the futuristic theme may
not be the most commercially
viable in this region, the
collection was very wearable and
would definitely see success
among the more style-inclined
crowd.
LOCAL INFLuENCE
GOES GLOBAL
endeMAGe
a very young omani label designed
by two equally young sisters
shows much promise presenting a
collection of sweeping
floor-length dresses with an edgy
touch. laser cut capes, structured
shoulders, and mermaid tail gowns
gives the label an international
appeal. even with the traditional
influences, the designs would fit
perfectly into a global portfolio.
05
06
DRESSED TO kILL
cest MOi
dubai-based cest moi is curated
by the very spirited and zesty
rushme kumari and is a mainstay in
uaes fashion scene. the brand
presented a select edit of pieces
at the event which truly
represented the brands
commitment to producing classic
foolproof cocktail dresses.
07
A FASHION
POT POuRRI
ZhOr rAis
zhor rais premiered her first
collection in a private show in muscat
25 years ago and this year she
returned with a repertoire that fully
encompasses the moroccan woman. a
couture brand that focuses on strong
tailoring and technique work to
highlight the diversity of moroccan
fashion, zhor is now supported by her
daughter chadia rais. this repertoire
truly brings forward all the staples
and designs that are relevant to every
woman in morocco, from the special
algerian serlual (drop crotch pants)
to indian jodpurs and salwars, this is
the representation of the melting pot
that we are, chadia says.
08
ICE QuEEN
tAtyAnA AceevA
the jordan-based designer worked
on her ss13 collection with the
ice queen in mind. not the evil part,
just the sartorial inspiration. it
is very feminine and romantic. i use
a lot of georgette fabrics with
swarovski crystals. my work has
always been about bringing out
the femininity in women. and also
to show that even arab designers
can be contemporary, tatyana
says. her intricate work leans on
the side of couture.
OPEN FOR CHANGE
nAWAL AL hOOti
the traditional omani embroidery
on a super short denim mini skirt
was shocking but it was a move
forward for the designer in
embracing a more modern outlook.
nawal has just opened her new
store within opera galleria, the
new luxury mall in muscat, and is
looking to diversify her designs.
the runway collection was a mix of
sheer resort-inspired tops with
minis and traditional kaftans.
09
10
GROWING IN DESIGN
dAs cOLLectiOn
the beljafla sisters have grown
leaps and bounds in their design
process. the ss13 collection
showed much thought and
concept and was presented in a
very defining manner of the
brands identity. unique fabric
choices including metallic
printed jerseys on drape cut
silhouettes and also a
kimono-inspired jumpsuit in
embroidered silk are some of
the winning elements of the
collection.
FASHION IS
TRADTIONAL
kAnZi
a collaboration between
sheikha amal al maktoum and
raghda taryam, kanzi
presented a collection of
abayas, kaftans, and evening
wear. the label also takes
orders for couture wedding
dresses and has shown at
various fashion weeks in the
trade shows and bride shows.
enterprising Qatari designer, Waad Ali showcased her latest collection at Dohas Grand Hyatt
hotel recently. The spring summer 2013 abaya collection was the third fashion show of its kind
by the young Qatari designer. Not only was GLAM a prominent partner in the event, we were
also conducting an exciting competition to select the fashionista with the best accessories
that night. Some of the other partners were Alnazeeh, Al Jazeera perfumes, Mai collection,
Pace e luce salon, Grand Hyatt hotel, Zoom, Occasions, Impression boutique, Ghada events,
Impressions, Lucia lounge and Qanect communications.
As the models elegantly graced the runway, it was difficult to resist the thought that we were
not in some exotic locale in Milan or Paris. I am delighted to offer my designs to women not
only in Qatar but also the region, said a beaming Ali. It is easy to see why the designer is fast
becoming an icon for women in Qatar. From modest beginnings barely a year ago, her label
has gained much recognition not only in the country but the region at large. Her fresh designs
are a testament to the fact that Qatar is quickly making its mark on the fashion highway.
Elaborating on orchestrating the fashion event she said, It takes about two to three months
to put something this big together. She adds, This collection had a mix of tulle, organza and
a number of other elements that make it truly feminine and very youthful. The incorporation
of colour is not the usual trend with abayas and that is something that stands out with these
designs.
COlOur
infused
by abigail mathias
the
/ 81
designer waad ali is all
smiles at the end of her
recently concluded doha
fashion show.
MODELS
SHOW OFF THE NEW
desiGns By
waad ali
AT A FASHION SHOW
HELD IN DOHA ON
JANUARY 16, 2013.
WAAD DESIGNS PLAYS WITH
TExTURES AND FABRICS TO GIVE
THE ABAYA A NEW PERSPECTIVE.
THE NEW INTERPRETATION OF THE ABAYA
MAKES IT VERSATILE NOT ONLY AS A CULTURAL
GARMENT BUT ALSO AS AN OUTER WEAR.
winninG
MOMents
fashiOn COnsCiOus
street
style
designer carla mallari with gustauo pulgar and will cha
patricia luca, sales manager at the intercontinental hotel
emna hedi from darz designs
marketing executives adriana cachi and andrea charaolia
i
m
a
g
e
s
b
y
b
r
i
d
g
e
t
a
l
e
x
a
n
d
r
a
the clutch that stole the show for its originality
and funkiness is owned by mai al mannai.
designer waad ali (centre) with her sister,
abeer (left) and mother after the show.
designer waad ali (centre) poses with the winner mai al mannai
(right) and a member of our glam team
/ 85
STYLISHLY SPORTY
Aussie-born Brooke Reid has made Doha her
home for the past five years. An avid sports
enthusiast, she has worked on the AFC Asian
Cup 2011 in Qatar in the rehabilitation and
physiotherapy department. Her passion
for football has taken her around the world
to watch the Australian football team, the
Socceroos, in action.
Brooke has also worked at the Australian
Institute of Sport and for the Melbourne
Commonwealth Games. Besides an interest
in swimming, rugby, Ironman triathlon,
cycling and basketball, Brooke makes it a
point to always look glamourous.
by abigail mathias
5
3
what
does it take to dress like a lady? The answer may well evoke a pas-
sionate response, fueled by a deep-seated emotion. This reaction may
stem from our perception of bygone eras, or perhaps from a spirited
sense of rebelliousness. In short, its a fashion question without a one-
size-fits-all answer!
Memories of the elegant 1950s provide inspiration for many of us,
including the designers of the spring/summer 13 collections. This
era epitomised true feminine charisma, with radiant style icons such
as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis.
These perfectly poised ladies were always immaculately dressed ei-
ther in the modest shift dress, a flared A-line skirt, cinched-in waist, or
the quintessential white shirt dress. The look elegantly complement-
ed with a handbag draped over a gloved arm.
There is no question that history generously provides us with tried
and tested silhouettes on which to model our 21st century designs. Al-
though, I hasten to add, these refined, self-contained and old-world
elegances are mostly only distant references to todays liberal and di-
verse style choices.
Conversely, and admittedly still within the elite, Catherine, Duch-
ess of Cambridge and Michelle Obama display the same feminine and
demure sentiment today. We seem quick to appreciate their slightly
more wearable kind of ladylike flair, showing that poised femininity is
still alive and well.
Its Alexa Chung, voted at the 2012 British Fashion Awards as the
nations favourite style icon, who possesses a personal trend that
YOUR
feMinine
FACTOR
by lynette cowie
/ 87
pOiGnAnt pOise
clothing and bag by adolfo
dominguez
shoes by dune
accessories by la lune
photographer: rob
altamirano
stylist: lynette cowie, the
style revivalist
model: olga pallar of trinity
talents qatar
make-up artist: debi mendez
hair stylists: blanka
bumbakovic
location: renaissance doha
city center hotel, doha
88 \
truly encapsulates femininity with street-style practicali-
ty. Her distinctive boy-meets-girl style (like teaming bloke
loafers with pretty Peter Pan collars) combines feminine
charm with our love for androgyny. This is just one of the
winning recipes to dressing like a lady of the 21st century.
Todays fashion is about contrast and juxtaposition, and
by combining two otherwise distinct styles, were finding
endless options to modern ladylike dressing. This is easily
achieved with a few wardrobe adjustments, based on the
know-how of focusing on dress, colours and accessories.
3 Funky GirLie
a true maverick, whose outfits are put together
with diverse eclectic choices of mix this, dont
match that combinations, that actually work like
magic.
Vintage: This is the perfect look to encourage browsing
through treasures found in charity and vintage boutiques.
A timeless flared A-line skirt can be restyled with anything
from canvas lace-up shoes, to an unexpected newsboy cap,
for ultimate cheeky appeal.
Shoes: Elegance and platforms arent naturally synony-
mous. But its just this thinking that creates the yin and
yang for a funky girlie ensemble. (Erdem, the Canadi-
an-born British-Turkish designer chose a metallic finish
platform to funk up his ladylike spring 2013 collection)
Accessories: Brooches, hats, shawls and laddish satchel
bags are just some of the intriguing items that can be the
next funky find.
4 uLtrA FeMinine
This spring therell be no shortage of lace, sheer, ruffle,
cut-out applique, playful floral prints and pastel colours
(soft yellow, grey, lilac and pastel blue) designed into pret-
ty pieces.
Go full tilt by playing lavishly with textural contrasts,
delicate styles, muted tones and hourglass silhouettes.
Most of all, appreciate todays feminine fashions by lov-
ing yourself.
styList 's LittLe bLAck bOOk
service:
treatment:
ambience:
have this distinctive bias for the Ritz Carlton Hotel. It could be because
it is one of the oldest hotels in the country, one I have been frequenting
since I joined the media scenario here or it could be because the service
offered by the Ritz Ladies and Gentlemen is beyond fault. There is no
disputing the fact that the warmth of the people serving you at the Ritz
comes with genuineness that touches a chord. So I have this feeling that
I would inevitably be biased in my write-up about the services at the Ritz
Spa.
I make a definite effort as I walk up the stairs to the Spa to remain as
objective as I could manage to be. That is as unbiased as I could be with
a smiling, considerate Gregory Laguesse, the Public Relations Assistant
Manager of the Ritz-Carlton, Doha, walking beside me to the doors of the i
Spa, and who naturally tries to melt my iron resolve.
And there just beyond the doors, I meet another of my good friends, Dr Tina
Pavlova, the Director of Spa and Recreation at Ritz-Carlton, Doha, who en-
velopes me in a bear hug. Well, damn my resolve, I reflect as I am led to the
treatment room.
Before I start with the treatment, I have to tell you about the Ritz Spa and
Recreation Center, the huge facility that is almost hidden beyond the lounge
of the hotel. A door leads from the lounge to this part of the hotel which hous-
es two huge junior indoor Olympic swimming pools, two whirlpools, a state-
of-the-art training room, aqua facilities and, of course, the spa area properly
demarcated for males and females. The facility also has a gigantic changing
room and locker facilities beyond which lies the shower area, all of which
could be simply described in two words: luxuriously enormous.
Tina tells me that the Ritz recreation facilities include fitness classes with
step, stretch, low impact, strengthening and toning, power walking, spinning
and aqua-fit.
Another surprising addition is the two tennis courts neatly nestled in the
ground floor and which can be looked down on from the glass windows that
envelop the exterior of the spa area.
Well, back to the spa, where Tina drops me off in the capable hands of a ther-
apist a no-nonsense professional therapist who I felt didn't believe as much
in the power of speech as she did in the power of touch.
Until she started her massage, I had mentally crossed her off in my mind as
rude, but the moment she started her techniques, I changed the adjectives to
sensitive and caring.
Silently she transported me to a world where aches and pains were merely
means to get to this massage room, where her touch spoke volumes in comfort
and care, where the comfort derived was beyond words.
So as I silently thanked God for bringing me to Ritz Spa, for Greg and Dr
Tina, and also for these infinitively talented hands, I also asked about the
therapy I was subjected to.
The massage was one of the signature products and called the Ritz-Carlton
Massage which I certify as a very relaxing, balancing experience and which,
according to Tina, incorporates Swedish and pressure point massage tech-
niques to release tension and increase energy circulation. This creative mas-
sage targets stress, poor circulation and other related problems.
I was advised to go home and relax after this experience and that is exactly
what I did. This did not change my earlier perception of what Ritz and its team
was about, it just reinforced it.
/ 101
I silently thanked God for
bringing me to Ritz Spa,
for Greg and Dr Tina, and
also for these infinitively
talented hands, I also asked
about the therapy I was
subjected to.
MOre thAn A spA:
ritz also offers personal training, fitness assessments, counselling, yoga,
indoor squash and tennis lessons and programmes available with an
instructor by appointment. zumba, swimming classes (for all ages, including
infants, tennis clinic for children, spinning, circuit training, kick fit, body
conditioning, body pump, oriental dance, karate for kids, yoga (basic,
pranayama, flow of ashtanga and vinyasa) and pilates.
the ritZ-cArLtOn siGnAture pAckAGe
an active treatment carefully designed to fulfil the needs of all skin types: a
sophisticated blend of natural fortifiers, amino acids, pure vitamins c and e
and lavender, deliver deep hydration and cellular energy as they soften the
appearance of ageing. this luxurious combination of the diamond facial and
diamond body treatment yields noticeable results after only one session.
siGnAture ArAbic treAtMents
the perFect dAte
designed for any special occasion. a gentle natural moisturising rub. dates,
honey and oats exfoliate and remove dead skin cells, promoting a softer and
smoother enriched skin, smelling delicious. finally relax with a date and honey
release massage to reduce muscle tension, moisturise skin and increase blood
circulation. herbal tea is served to complete the experience.
photographs by rob
FASHION,
FUN
fOOd
by debrina aliyah
/ 103
with a larger-than-life personality and even better
tastebuds, Vineet Bhatia continues to charm the world
as the tireless champion of Indian cuisine. Bringing a
different perspective to the table, Chef Vineet is slowly
but surely changing the face of Indian food and making it
accessible to culinary fans everywhere. He wants everyone
to know that eating Indian food does not have to be a scary
spicy adventure but a warming comfort food experience
that will leave you with good memories.
Having been appointed as culinary ambassador to
Qatar Airways and heading the kitchen of Saffron Lounge
at Katara Cultural Village, Chef Vineet has cultivated a
close relationship with this country. He has whipped up
unique interpretations of Indian dishes at the restaurant
and watched endless amount of guests leave happy. The
connection, he feels, is the similarity between Arabic and
Indian cuisine in terms of flavours, spices and texture. And
now fans can get even more of his cooking expertise on
Twist of Taste, a Fox Traveller food series documenting his
travels around India to discover new dishes.
What exciting new things can we look forward to at Saffron
Lounge now?
We have a new menu incorporating dishes that have been
very popular or specially requested before. During the
Indian Street Food Festival a couple of months back, we
showcased these new dishes in a tapas style setting and
the guests loved them. The tapas style is great for groups
of 4 or 5 - they got to try out different dishes in a friendly
atmosphere. There are some dishes to look out for in the
new menu including the slow cooked lamb with lime and
prawns from Kerala. And of course, you can still find our
all-time bestsellers lamb chops, kulfis, chocolate samosas
and butter chicken, cheese samosas and lassi.
Saffron Lounge is different in promoting its cuisine and
attracts a diverse crowd. Why is that?
My philosophy has always been to present Indian cuisine
in a way that would be suited to international taste buds.
Having Indian food does not need to be a spicy traumatic
experience that will end in hours in the bathroom
afterwards. Unfortunately, this is the perception that
many people have! We tailor recipes to local tastes but
we maintain flavours and authenticity. Flavourful does
not only mean spiciness but a combination of all other
ingredients. This is the reason why a diverse group of
diners are attracted to the cuisine in Saffron Lounge,
we give them a good experience by just producing really
good comfort food. The restaurant setting is also very
comfortable and family-oriented which makes it popular
with locals. The ladies can come and enjoy the privacy and
comfort the restaurant offers.
Where do you find new inspirations?
I travel all around India looking for new inspirations. The
cuisine has so much depth.
It is like a treasure box! I am
learning new things every time
I set off on a trip. From one part
of India to another, the cooking
styles are all technically very
different and it changes across
the region. I pick up new
dishes and learn and adapt
them to my restaurants. I am
very open minded to learning
and exploring new styles and
techniques.
What is your personal style like
when you are out of your chef s
outfit?
My style is very casual, funky
and friendly. I love collared
t-shirts, slacks and sneakers.
I have sneakers of all colours
from yellow, pink, red to
maroon, I wear lots of colours
and my style is very much
part of my personality and my
cooking - colours and flavours.
I love good fabrics, and I love hats! I wear hats all the time.
My wife is my personal stylist as she is the one who does
the shopping for me mostly and curates my wardrobe.
Future plans
There will be another book, a fashion bar in Mumbai, a new
venture coming up in Saudi Arabia and when Im 70-years-
old, I would like to be lazing on a beach somewhere with
cigar in one hand and drink in the other. But I am truly
a workaholic and it is amazing that I have combined my
passion and work together.
My style is
very casual,
funky and
friendly.
I love
collared
t-shirts,
slacks and
sneakers.
a Chef