WO2024239133A1 - Mask for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents
Mask for caring for keratin materials Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2024239133A1 WO2024239133A1 PCT/CN2023/095217 CN2023095217W WO2024239133A1 WO 2024239133 A1 WO2024239133 A1 WO 2024239133A1 CN 2023095217 W CN2023095217 W CN 2023095217W WO 2024239133 A1 WO2024239133 A1 WO 2024239133A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- hydroxypropane
- polyglyceryl
- propan
- composition
- mask according
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 33
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 30
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 62
- -1 fatty acid esters Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 38
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 239000000758 substrate Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 229930182476 C-glycoside Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 24
- 150000000700 C-glycosides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 230000005540 biological transmission Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000002560 therapeutic procedure Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetone Chemical compound CC(C)=O CSCPPACGZOOCGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 32
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N glycerol group Chemical group OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 13
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
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- KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N (2s,3r,4s,5r)-2-(2-hydroxypropyl)oxane-3,4,5-triol Chemical compound CC(O)C[C@@H]1OC[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O KOGFZZYPPGQZFZ-QVAPDBTGSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 8
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- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000233866 Fungi Species 0.000 description 1
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-HWQSCIPKSA-N L-arabinopyranose Chemical compound O[C@H]1COC(O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-HWQSCIPKSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Lysine Natural products NCCCCC(N)C(O)=O KDXKERNSBIXSRK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000004472 Lysine Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015334 Phyllostachys viridis Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000004743 Polypropylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001219 Polysorbate 40 Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002651 Polysorbate 85 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004147 Sorbitan trioleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N Sorbitan trioleate Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC PRXRUNOAOLTIEF-ADSICKODSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical compound OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000700605 Viruses Species 0.000 description 1
- FTTUBRHJNAGMKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylohexaose Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)COC1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(O)C(OC3C(C(O)C(OC4C(C(O)C(OC5C(C(O)C(O)OC5)O)OC4)O)OC3)O)OC2)O)OC1 FTTUBRHJNAGMKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LFFQNKFIEIYIKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylopentaose Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)COC1OC1C(O)C(O)C(OC2C(C(O)C(OC3C(C(O)C(OC4C(C(O)C(O)OC4)O)OC3)O)OC2)O)OC1 LFFQNKFIEIYIKL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- JVZHSOSUTPAVII-UHFFFAOYSA-N Xylotetraose Natural products OCC(OC1OCC(OC2OCC(OC3OCC(O)C(O)C3O)C(O)C2O)C(O)C1O)C(O)C(O)C=O JVZHSOSUTPAVII-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- FGUZFFWTBWJBIL-XWVZOOPGSA-N [(1r)-1-[(2s,3r,4s)-3,4-dihydroxyoxolan-2-yl]-2-hydroxyethyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)O[C@H](CO)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O FGUZFFWTBWJBIL-XWVZOOPGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- AQKOHYMKBUOXEB-RYNSOKOISA-N [(2R)-2-[(2R,3R,4S)-4-hydroxy-3-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)oxolan-2-yl]-2-(16-methylheptadecanoyloxy)ethyl] 16-methylheptadecanoate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@@H](OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C AQKOHYMKBUOXEB-RYNSOKOISA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000003158 alcohol group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-BXKVDMCESA-N aldehydo-L-rhamnose Chemical compound C[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)C=O PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-BXKVDMCESA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- IXWNIYCPCRHGAE-DFZOHVKFSA-N alpha-D-GalNAc-(1->3)-D-Gal Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](CO)OC(O)[C@@H]1O IXWNIYCPCRHGAE-DFZOHVKFSA-N 0.000 description 1
- SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-STGXQOJASA-N alpha-D-lyxopyranose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1CO[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H]1O SRBFZHDQGSBBOR-STGXQOJASA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000005030 aluminium foil Substances 0.000 description 1
- CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminomethyl propanol Chemical compound CC(C)(N)CO CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940114079 arachidonic acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000021342 arachidonic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001580 bacterial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003899 bactericide agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011425 bamboo Substances 0.000 description 1
- JCSJTDYCNQHPRJ-FDVJSPBESA-N beta-D-Xylp-(1->4)-beta-D-Xylp-(1->4)-D-Xylp Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)C(O)OC2)O)OC1 JCSJTDYCNQHPRJ-FDVJSPBESA-N 0.000 description 1
- AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N beta-D-galactopyranuronic acid Natural products OC1OC(C(O)=O)C(O)C(O)C1O AEMOLEFTQBMNLQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- MSWZFWKMSRAUBD-QZABAPFNSA-N beta-D-glucosamine Chemical compound N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O MSWZFWKMSRAUBD-QZABAPFNSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000002843 carboxylic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 238000001816 cooling Methods 0.000 description 1
- 125000000113 cyclohexyl group Chemical group [H]C1([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C1([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001511 cyclopentyl group Chemical group [H]C1([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C1([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 125000001559 cyclopropyl group Chemical group [H]C1([H])C([H])([H])C1([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- IUNMPGNGSSIWFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N dimethylaminopropylamine Chemical compound CN(C)CCCN IUNMPGNGSSIWFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910001651 emery Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000001495 ethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 150000002334 glycols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- 150000007529 inorganic bases Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000000959 isobutyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 125000001449 isopropyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000010030 laminating Methods 0.000 description 1
- RXVWSYJTUUKTEA-CGQAXDJHSA-N maltotriose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O[C@H]([C@H](O)CO)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C=O)O[C@H](CO)[C@H]1O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 RXVWSYJTUUKTEA-CGQAXDJHSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001280 n-hexyl group Chemical group C(CCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000004123 n-propyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 231100000252 nontoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003000 nontoxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N octane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(O)CO AEIJTFQOBWATKX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 235000021313 oleic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229920001542 oligosaccharide Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 238000012014 optical coherence tomography Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 description 1
- 229940102545 peg-20 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000001147 pentyl group Chemical group C(CCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- ABLZXFCXXLZCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N phosphonic acid group Chemical group P(O)(O)=O ABLZXFCXXLZCGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001223 polyethylene glycol Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920000223 polyglycerol Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 229920001155 polypropylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229940101027 polysorbate 40 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940099511 polysorbate 65 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940113171 polysorbate 85 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019260 propionic acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000001681 protective effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011241 protective layer Substances 0.000 description 1
- IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N quinbolone Chemical compound O([C@H]1CC[C@H]2[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@]4(C=CC(=O)C=C4CC3)C)CC[C@@]21C)C1=CCCC1 IUVKMZGDUIUOCP-BTNSXGMBSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002964 rayon Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000002914 sec-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057429 sorbitan isostearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019337 sorbitan trioleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960000391 sorbitan trioleate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 210000000434 stratum corneum Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000542 sulfonic acid group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 230000002195 synergetic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000010189 synthetic method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 238000013271 transdermal drug delivery Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000008733 trauma Effects 0.000 description 1
- LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris Chemical compound OCC(N)(CO)CO LENZDBCJOHFCAS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- KPTPSLHFVHXOBZ-BIKCPUHGSA-N xylotetraose Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)C(O)OC3)O)OC2)O)OC1 KPTPSLHFVHXOBZ-BIKCPUHGSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ABKNGTPZXRUSOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N xylotriose Natural products OCC(OC1OCC(OC2OCC(O)C(O)C2O)C(O)C1O)C(O)C(O)C=O ABKNGTPZXRUSOI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc stearate Chemical class [Zn+2].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O.CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O XOOUIPVCVHRTMJ-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0212—Face masks
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application.
- the present invention relates to a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials.
- the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
- Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
- Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue.
- the keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.
- Occlusive patches are used to boost the penetration of active ingredients for transdermal drug delivery, but they need long time application, for example, more than 8 hours, it is not applicable to the cosmetic field.
- Another aim of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials using the masks mentioned above.
- the present invention provides a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- At least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10;
- the inventors have found that the occlusive substrate with moisture vapor transmission rate in a specific range and the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 results in good efficacy on penetration of the active ingredient contained in the mask, i.e. C-glycoside, to keratin materials.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the mask according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
- keratin material is intended to cover human skin. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
- the mask according to the present invention comprises:
- composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate wherein the composition comprises:
- At least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10;
- the term “occlusive substrate” means that the substrate can work by forming a protective layer on the surface of the skin and create a barrier to prevent moisture loss.
- the occlusive substrate has a moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR) from 0.01 to10 g/m 2 /24h, preferably from 0.1 to 5 g/m 2 /24h, more preferably 0.1 to 3 g/m 2 /24h, even more preferably 0.2 to1 g/m 2 /24h.
- MVTR moisture vapor transmission rate
- the occlusive substrate has a moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR) from 0.25 to 0.48 g/m 2 /24h.
- MVTR moisture vapor transmission rate
- the moisture vapor transmission rate can be tested according to ASTM F1249-20.
- the occlusive substrate comprises:
- a non-water transmission film layer means a film layer which is impervious to water at the pressure of 1 Mpa.
- the non-water transmission film layer is made from a material selected from polyethylene (PE) , polyethylene terephthalate (PET) , polyamide (PA) , aluminium foil, aluminium oxide, silicone and mixtures thereof.
- PE polyethylene
- PET polyethylene terephthalate
- PA polyamide
- aluminium foil aluminium oxide
- silicone silicone and mixtures thereof.
- the non-woven fabric layer consists of fibers selected from synthetic polymer fibers, semi-nature fibers, nature fibers and mixtures thereof.
- polyester fibers As examples of synthetic polymer fibers, mention can be made of polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers.
- viscose rayon fibers As an example of semi-natural fibers, mention can be made of viscose rayon fibers.
- natural fibers such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers.
- the occlusive substrate can be prepared by laminating the non-water transmission film layer and the non-woven fabric layer.
- the skilled person in the art can determine the thicknesses of the non-water transmission film layer and the non-woven fabric layer based on the intended purpose.
- the occlusive substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
- the occlusive substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired.
- the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
- the occlusive substrate suitable for the mask according to the present invention is commercially available.
- commercial products suitable for use as the occlusive substrate mention can be made of those sold under the trade names NR92050-(Rayon 55%/Pulp 41%/PE 4%) 5 ⁇ m and NR92040 AL by the company Sanwa.
- composition used in the mask according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10.
- HLB hydrophilic-lipophilic balance
- the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 3 to 6 glycerols, and further more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.
- the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the mono-, di-and tri-esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.
- the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of:
- PG5 caprylate PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate.
- polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from:
- the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units and mixtures thereof.
- the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.
- the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
- the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I) :
- R represents a saturated C 1 to C 10 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR” 2 , with R” 2 being a saturated C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical,
- - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
- - X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH 2 ) -, -CH (NHCH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH 3 ) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH 2 ) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
- the S-CH 2 -X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be ⁇ or ⁇ ,
- the C-glycoside of use for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear C 1 to C 6 , in particular C 1 to C 4 , preferentially C 1 to C 2 , alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.
- a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
- apolysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, adisaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl- ⁇ -xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
- Scan represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
- - R denotes an unsubstituted linear C 1 -C 4 , in particular C 1 -C 2 , alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;
- - S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- - X represents a group selected from-CO-, -CH (OH) -or-CH (NH 2 ) -and preferably a-CH (OH) -group.
- the acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphonic acid groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
- neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2 , or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
- an inorganic base such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2 , NH 4 OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2
- organic base such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine.
- This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
- aC-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside and in any proportion.
- a C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828.
- C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
- the C-glycoside can be C- ⁇ -D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) provided in the form of a solution containing 70%by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.
- the C-glycoside is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 25 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
- the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible organic solvents selected from monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethoxydiglycol, and polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
- polyol should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
- examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerine and polyethylene glycols.
- the aqueous phase may represent from 40 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and more preferably from 80 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredient for caring for keratin materials in addition to C-glycoside.
- the co-surfactant can increase the solubility of cosmetic active ingredients in the composition by reducing the interfacial tension to a limit below that of the surfactants.
- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan have a fatty acid containing 10-30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10-20 carbon atoms, and further more preferably from 12-18 carbon atoms.
- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate; preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan are polysorbate 20, sold under the name Tween by Croda, or polysorbate 60, sold under the name Tween by Croda, polysorbate 80, sold under the name TWEEN TM 80-LQ- (CQ) by Croda.
- polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween by Croda
- polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween by Croda
- the composition comprises from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 9 wt. %, more preferably 3 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan mention can be made of polysorbate 80, and polysorbate 60.
- the present invention provides a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
- composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
- the mask according to the present invention is intended for topical application.
- the mask according to the present invention can be used to effectively deliver the active ingredients contained therein to keratin materials.
- the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the mask according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
- the keratin materials are the facial skin.
- compositions according to invention examples (IE) 1-4 and comparative examples (CE) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 3 (the contents were expressed as weight percentages of ingredients with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) .
- compositions were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example:
- compositions obtained were impregnated into an occlusive substrate as indicated in Table 3 by 70-80 mg/cm 2 .
- Fluorescein dye (chemical name: 3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [2-benzofuran-3, 9'-xanthene] -1-one) was mixed into the composition of the mask to be tested at a concentration of 50 ppm in advance to obtain the sample to be tested, which was stored at room temperature in a dark room.
- Porcine ear was taken out of-20°C, and cleaned with water.
- a porcine skin was cut from an ear with surgical blade. The porcine skin was put on a wet tissue to keep humidified. Hairs on porcine skin surface were snipped.
- the porcine skin on a wet tissue was stored at 4°C overnight.
- the masks to be tested were covered onto the porcine skin for 20 to 60 minutes according to test requirements indicated in Table 3.
- Formula residue was wiped off by dry tissues, then dishes with the porcine skin was transferred into an oven at 32°C for 2 hours.
- a 10mm x 10mm part was cut from that porcine skin, then freezed with optical coherence tomography (medium) at-80°C.
- cryosection skin samples were cut in 14 ⁇ m by Cryostat CM3050 S machine. Then images were taken by confocal microscope.
- a Nikon A1R MP microscope was used in this test. Confocal microscope was used to observe fluorescein dye signal. At 500nm to 550nm of emission wave, fluorescein dye signal was captured.
- the masks will be considered effectively deliver the active ingredient contained therein to keratin materials when the fluorescence intensity is more than 4000 pixl.
- the higher pixl data the stronger penetration of water soluble active hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.
- the mask according to the present invention can effectively deliver the active ingredient contained therein to keratin materials within 30 minutes.
- the occlusive substrate with a specific range of moisture vapor transmission rate and the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 result in synergetic efficacy on penetration of the active ingredient contained in the mask to keratin materials.
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Abstract
A mask for caring for keratin materials is provided, which comprises: i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01-10 g/m 2/24h; and ii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises: a) at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10; and b) at least one C-glycoside. A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials is also provided.
Description
The present invention relates to a cosmetic mask for topical application. In particular, the present invention relates to a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
Skin is the protective barrier for the human body. It protects the interior of the body from physical injury (such as trauma) and biological injury (such as bacterial, viruses or fungi) .
Skin is made up of several layers of cells which coat and protect the underlying tissue. The keratin and collagen fibrous proteins form the skeleton of its structure. The outermost of these layers, referred to as the stratum corneum.
The development of formulations dedicated to caring for the skin is permanent.
Occlusive patches are used to boost the penetration of active ingredients for transdermal drug delivery, but they need long time application, for example, more than 8 hours, it is not applicable to the cosmetic field.
Thus, it is desired to develop similar products like masks for delivering cosmetic active ingredients such as C-glycoside to keratin materials in a short time, for example, within no more than 30 minutes.
One aim of the present invention is to provide masks, preferably for caring for keratin materials, which can deliver cosmetic active ingredients to keratin materials within no more than 30 minutes.
Another aim of the present invention is to provide a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials using the masks mentioned above.
Thus, in a first aspect, the present invention provides a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01 to10 g/m2/24h; and
ii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises:
a) at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10; and
b) at least one C-glycoside.
The mask according to the present invention can effectively deliver C-glycoside to the keratin materials within 30 minutes.
The inventors have found that the occlusive substrate with moisture vapor transmission rate in a specific range and the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 results in good efficacy on penetration of the active ingredient contained in the mask, i.e. C-glycoside, to keratin materials.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the mask according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the detailed description and the examples that follow.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well
as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
The mask according to the present invention comprises:
i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01 to10 g/m2/24h; and
ii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises:
a) at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10; and
b) at least one C-glycoside.
Occlusive substrate
For the purpose of the invention, the term “occlusive substrate” means that the substrate can work by forming a protective layer on the surface of the skin and create a barrier to prevent moisture loss.
The occlusive substrate has a moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR) from 0.01 to10 g/m2/24h, preferably from 0.1 to 5 g/m2/24h, more preferably 0.1 to 3 g/m2/24h, even more preferably 0.2 to1 g/m2/24h.
In some embodiments, the occlusive substrate has a moisture vapor transmission rate (MVTR) from 0.25 to 0.48 g/m2/24h.
The moisture vapor transmission rate can be tested according to
ASTM F1249-20.
In particular, the moisture vapor transmission rate can be tested as follows: a dry chamber is separated from a wet chamber of known temperature 38±0.5℃and humidity 100%by the material layer to be tested. The dry chamber and the wet chamber make up a diffusion cell in which the material layer is sealed. Water vapor diffusing through the material layer mixes with the gas in the dry Chamber and is carried to a pressure-modulate infrared sensor. The sensor can transfer the electronic signal into the water vapor concentration. The diffusion will last for 24hours. Then the water vapor concentration is divided by the area of the diffusion chamber to get the MVTR (g/cm2/24h) .
Preferably, the occlusive substrate comprises:
a) a non-water transmission film layer; and
b) a non-woven fabric layer.
As used herein, a non-water transmission film layer means a film layer which is impervious to water at the pressure of 1 Mpa.
Preferably, the non-water transmission film layer is made from a material selected from polyethylene (PE) , polyethylene terephthalate (PET) , polyamide (PA) , aluminium foil, aluminium oxide, silicone and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the non-woven fabric layer consists of fibers selected from synthetic polymer fibers, semi-nature fibers, nature fibers and mixtures thereof.
As examples of synthetic polymer fibers, mention can be made of polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers, and polypropylene fibers.
As an example of semi-natural fibers, mention can be made of viscose rayon fibers.
As examples of natural fibers, mention can be made of such as cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers.
The occlusive substrate can be prepared by laminating the non-water transmission film layer and the non-woven fabric layer.
The skilled person in the art can determine the thicknesses of the non-water transmission film layer and the non-woven fabric layer based on the intended purpose.
The occlusive substrate can have a wide variety of shapes, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the mask.
The occlusive substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin to which topical application is desired. For example, when the mask is applied to the face, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
The occlusive substrate suitable for the mask according to the present invention is commercially available. As examples of commercial products suitable for use as the occlusive substrate, mention can be made of those sold under the trade names NR92050-(Rayon 55%/Pulp 41%/PE 4%) 5μm and NR92040 AL by the company Sanwa.
The skilled person in the art can choose a suitable substrate and the weight ratio of the substrate used and the composition according to the present invention based on the nature of the composition.
Polyglyceryl fatty acid esters
The composition used in the mask according to the present invention comprises at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10.
The term HLB ( "hydrophilic-lipophilic balance" ) is well known to those skilled in the art, and reflects the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule.
For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester have a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably from 3 to 6 glycerols, and further more preferably 5 or 6 glycerols.
The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the mono-, di-and tri-esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including 2 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as capric acid, caprylic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.
The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of:
PG5 caprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate.
PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate,
PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate
It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from:
- polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl monooleates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,
- polyglyceryl dioleates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and
- polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, And mixtures thereof.
More preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units and mixtures thereof.
Most preferably, the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.
Advantageously, the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
C-glycosides
According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one C-glycoside.
Preferably, the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I) :
in which:
- R represents a saturated C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR”2, with R”2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and
- X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, -CH (NHCH2CH2CH2OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH3) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH2) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,
the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can be α or β,
and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers.
The C-glycoside of use for the implementation of the invention are in particular those for which R denotes a saturated linear C1 to C6, in particular C1 to C4, preferentially C1 to C2, alkyl radical and more preferably a methyl radical.
Mention may in particular be made, among the alkyl groups suitable for the implementation of the invention, of the methyl, ethyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl, isobutyl, sec-butyl, pentyl, n-hexyl, cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl groups.
According to one embodiment of the invention, use may be made of a C-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) for which S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of L and/or D series, the said mono-or polysaccharide exhibiting at least one
necessarily free hydroxyl functional group and/or optionally one or more necessarily protected amine functional groups, X and R otherwise retaining all of the definitions given above.
Advantageously, a monosaccharide of the invention can be selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose or L-fucose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or N-acetyl-D-galactosamine and advantageously denotes D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose and in particular D-xylose.
More particularly, apolysaccharide of the invention comprising up to 6 sugar units can be selected from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose, D-maltotriose, adisaccharide combining a uronic acid selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide comprising at least one xylose which can advantageously be selected from xylobiose, methyl-β-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose and in particular xylobiose, which is composed of two xylose molecules linked via a 1-4 bond.
More particularly, Scan represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-xylose, L-fucose, D-galactose or D-maltose and in particular D-xylose.
Preferably, use is made of a C-glycoside of formula (I) for which:
- R denotes an unsubstituted linear C1-C4, in particular C1-C2, alkyl radical, especially a methyl radical;
- S represents a monosaccharide as described above and selected in particular from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
- X represents a group selected from-CO-, -CH (OH) -or-CH (NH2) -and preferably a-CH (OH) -group.
The acceptable salts of the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional non-toxic salts of the said compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the salts of inorganic acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which can comprise one or more carboxylic, sulfonic
or phosphonic acid groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid.
When the compound of formula (I) comprises an acid group, neutralization of the acid group (s) can be carried out with an inorganic base, such as LiOH, NaOH, KOH, Ca (OH) 2, NH4OH, Mg (OH) 2 or Zn (OH) 2, or with an organic base, such as a primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine, for example triethylamine or butylamine. This primary, secondary or tertiary alkylamine can comprise one or more nitrogen and/or oxygen atoms and can thus comprise, for example, one or more alcohol functional groups; mention may in particular be made of 2-amino-2-methylpropanol, triethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) propanol or 2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1, 3-propanediol. Mention may also be made of lysine or 3- (dimethylamino) propylamine.
The solvates which are acceptable for the compounds described in the present invention comprise conventional solvates, such as those formed during the final stage of preparation of the said compounds due to the presence of solvents. Mention may be made, by way of example, of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol.
Of course, according to the invention, aC-glycoside corresponding to the formula (I) can be used alone or as a mixture with other C-glycoside and in any proportion.
A C-glycoside which is suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthetic method described in the document WO 02/051828.
Mention may in particular be made, by way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside compounds which are particularly suitable for the invention, of the following compounds:
- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,
- 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,
- 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,
- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,
- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,
- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,
- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, their isomers and their mixtures.
According to one embodiment, C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane or C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane and better still C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.
According to a specific embodiment, the C-glycoside can be C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane (or hydroxypropyltetrahydropyrantriol) provided in the form of a solution containing 70%by weight of active material in water and propylene glycol.
Advantageously, the C-glycoside is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 25 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present invention may comprise an
aqueous phase.
If presents, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible organic solvents selected from monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethoxydiglycol, and polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.
The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance propanediol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, isoprene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerine and polyethylene glycols.
Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent, preferably selected from ethoxydiglycol, propanediol, glycerine, and combinations thereof.
If presents, the aqueous phase may represent from 40 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and more preferably from 80 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
The composition of the present invention may comprise one or more additional cosmetic active ingredient for caring for keratin materials in addition to C-glycoside.
It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient based on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more additional adjuvants or additives commonly used in compositions for caring for keratin materials, e.g., fragrances, additional surfactants, preserving agents and bactericides, pH regulators, and combinations thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
The composition may comprise additional surfactants, for example, at least one co-surfactant selected from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acids with melting point<=30℃, and combinations thereof. The co-surfactant can increase the solubility of cosmetic active ingredients in the composition by reducing the interfacial tension to a limit below that of the surfactants.
For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan have a fatty acid containing 10-30 carbon atoms, more preferably from 10-20 carbon atoms, and further more preferably from 12-18 carbon atoms.
The oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan may be selected from the mono-, di-and tri-esters of saturated or unsaturated fatty acid, including 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, and oleic acid.
As examples of oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 65, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85, PEG-5 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-20 sorbitan isostearate, PEG-40 sorbitan septaoleate, PEG-20 sorbitan tetraoleate and PEG-20 sorbitan trioleate; preferably oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan are polysorbate 20, sold under the name Tween by Croda, or polysorbate 60, sold under the name Tween by Croda, polysorbate 80, sold under the name TWEENTM 80-LQ- (CQ) by Croda.
For the purpose of the present invention, it is preferable that fatty acid with melting point<=30℃may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of oleic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, and the mixtures thereof; more preferably, fatty acid with melting point<=30℃ is oleic acid, sold under the name EDENOR OL 75 MY (RSPO MB) by EMERY OLEOCHEMICALS.
If presents, advantageously, the at least one co-surfactant selected from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acids
with melting point<=30℃, and combinations thereof is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 9 wt. %, more preferably 3 wt. %to 5 wt. %of at least one oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As examples of oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, mention can be made of polysorbate 80, and polysorbate 60.
In some embodiments, the composition comprises from 1 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 1 wt. %to 9 wt. %, more preferably 3 wt. %to 5 wt. %of fatty acid with melting point<=30℃, relative to the total weight of the composition.
As examples of fatty acid with melting point<=30℃, mention can be made of oleic acid.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01-10 g/m2/24h; and
ii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units; and
b) from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and combinations thereof.
Method and use
The mask according to the present invention is intended for topical application.
The mask according to the present invention can be used to effectively deliver the active ingredients contained therein to keratin materials.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the mask according to the present invention to the keratin materials.
In particular, the keratin materials are the facial skin.
EXAMPLES
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof were listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Substrates used, trade names and supplier thereof were listed in Table 2.
Table 2
Invention Examples 1-4 and Comparative Examples 1-4
Compositions according to invention examples (IE) 1-4 and comparative examples (CE) 1-4 were prepared with the ingredients
listed in Table 3 (the contents were expressed as weight percentages of ingredients with regard to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated) .
The compositions were prepared as follows, taking composition of invention example 1 as an example:
1. adding the hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol into water, mildly mixing until dissolving to obtain a water phase.
2. heating the water phase to 65℃, adding the other ingredients into the hot water phase.
3. homoginizing under a sharing rate>1000rpm for 5 minutes.
4. stirring at 150 rpm until cooling down the temperature to room temperature to obtain the composition.
Then the compositions obtained were impregnated into an occlusive substrate as indicated in Table 3 by 70-80 mg/cm2.
Evaluation of delivery effect of different masks
The delivery effect of different masks was evaluated by a fluorescence intensity test as follows.
Formula preparation:
Fluorescein dye (chemical name: 3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [2-benzofuran-3, 9'-xanthene] -1-one) was mixed into the composition of the mask to be tested at a concentration of 50 ppm in advance to obtain the sample to be tested, which was stored at room temperature in a dark room.
Ex vivo skin preparation:
Porcine ear was taken out of-20℃, and cleaned with water. A porcine skin was cut from an ear with surgical blade. The porcine skin was put on a wet tissue to keep humidified. Hairs on porcine skin surface were snipped.
The porcine skin on a wet tissue was stored at 4℃ overnight.
The masks to be tested were covered onto the porcine skin for 20 to 60 minutes according to test requirements indicated in Table 3.
Formula residue was wiped off by dry tissues, then dishes with the porcine skin was transferred into an oven at 32℃ for 2 hours.
A 10mm x 10mm part was cut from that porcine skin, then freezed with optical coherence tomography (medium) at-80℃.
The cryosection skin samples were cut in 14μm by Cryostat CM3050 S machine. Then images were taken by confocal microscope.
A Nikon A1R MP microscope was used in this test. Confocal microscope was used to observe fluorescein dye signal. At 500nm to 550nm of emission wave, fluorescein dye signal was captured.
Result of the fluorescein intensity is presented by pixl.
The masks will be considered effectively deliver the active ingredient contained therein to keratin materials when the fluorescence intensity is more than 4000 pixl. The higher pixl data, the stronger penetration of water soluble active hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol.
The fluorescence intensity delivered by masks of invention examples (IE) 1-4 and comparative examples (CE) 1-4 were summarized in Table 4 below.
Table 4
It can be seen from Table 4 that the mask according to the present invention can effectively deliver the active ingredient contained therein to keratin materials within 30 minutes.
It can be also seen that the occlusive substrate with a specific range of moisture vapor transmission rate and the surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10 result in synergetic efficacy on penetration of the active ingredient contained in the mask to keratin materials.
Claims (13)
- A mask, preferably for caring for keratin materials, comprising:i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01-10 g/m2/24h; andii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises:a) at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl fatty acid esters with HLB>10; andb) at least one C-glycoside.
- The mask of claim 1, wherein the surfactant is selected from:- polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,- polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,- polyglyceryl mono (iso) stearate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,- polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units,- polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and- polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units; and- mixtures thereof,preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is selected from polyglyceryl monocaprylates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monolaurates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof,most preferably, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.
- The mask according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 15 wt. %, preferably from 2 wt. %to 12 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from compounds of formula (I) :
in which:- R represents a saturated C1 to C10, in particular C1 to C4, alkyl radical which can optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OH, COOH or COOR”2, with R”2 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical,- S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide comprising up to 20 sugar units, in particular up to 6 sugar units, in pyranose and/or furanose form and of the L and/or D series, it being possible for the said monosaccharide or polysaccharide to be substituted by a hydroxyl group which is necessarily free and optionally one or more optionally protected amine functional group (s) , and- X represents a radical selected from the–CO-, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NH2) -, -CH (NHCH2CH2CH2OH) -, -CH (NHPh) -and–CH (CH3) -groups and in particular a–CO-, -CH (OH) -or–CH (NH2) -radical and more particularly a–CH (OH) -radical,the S-CH2-X bond represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, which can beαorβ,and also their physiologically acceptable salts, their solvates, such as the hydrates, and their optical and geometrical isomers. - The mask according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the C-glycoside is selected from- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,- C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,- C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-β-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-α-D-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-β-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-α-L-fucopyranoside) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-α-D-glucopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-β-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-α-D-galactopyranosyl) -2-hydroxypropane,- 1- (C-β-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-α-D-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-β-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,- 1- (C-α-L-fucofuranosyl) propan-2-one,- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-n-propane-2-one,- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-n-propan-2-one,- C-β-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,- C-α-D-maltopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane,their isomers and their mixtures.
- The mask according to any of claims 1 to 5, wherein the C-glycoside is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 40 wt. %, preferably from 0.05 wt. %to 25 wt. %, and more preferably from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1 to 6, further comprises an aqueous phase.
- The mask according to claim 7, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water and water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible organic solvents selected from monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; preferably, the organic solvent is selected from ethoxydiglycol, propanediol, glycerine, and combinations thereof.
- The mask according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 40 wt. %to 95 wt. %, preferably from 70 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and more preferably from 80 wt. %to 90 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to any of claims 1 to 9, further comprises at least one co-surfactant selected from oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan, fatty acids with melting point<=30℃, and combinations thereof.
- The mask according to claim 10, wherein the co-surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 20 wt. %, preferably from 3 wt. %to 15 wt. %, more preferably from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- The mask according to claim 1, comprising:i) an occlusive substrate with a moisture vapor transmission rate from 0.01 to10 g/m2/24h; andii) a composition impregnated into the occlusive substrate, wherein the composition comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition:a) from 3 wt. %to 10 wt. %of at least one surfactant selected from polyglyceryl monocaprates comprising 3 to 6 glycerol units; andb) from 0.1 wt. %to 15 wt. %of at least one C-glycoside selected from C-β-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, C-α-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, and combinations thereof.
- A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials, comprising applying the mask according to any of claims 1 to 12 to the keratin materials.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2023/095217 WO2024239133A1 (en) | 2023-05-19 | 2023-05-19 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
| FR2306640A FR3148714B1 (en) | 2023-05-19 | 2023-06-26 | CARE MASK FOR KERATIN MATERIALS |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2023/095217 WO2024239133A1 (en) | 2023-05-19 | 2023-05-19 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2024239133A1 true WO2024239133A1 (en) | 2024-11-28 |
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ID=93521057
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| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2023/095217 WO2024239133A1 (en) | 2023-05-19 | 2023-05-19 | Mask for caring for keratin materials |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR3148714B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2024239133A1 (en) |
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| FR2973237A1 (en) * | 2011-03-31 | 2012-10-05 | Oreal | FRACTIONAL COSMETIC TREATMENT PROCESS USING LASER OR MICRO-NEEDLES |
| WO2012153336A2 (en) * | 2011-05-12 | 2012-11-15 | Rakuto Bio Technologies Ltd. | Methods and device for lightening skin complexion |
| CN103251524B (en) * | 2013-05-06 | 2015-02-11 | 广州立白企业集团有限公司 | Foam facial mask composition and preparation method thereof |
| KR101858451B1 (en) * | 2016-08-08 | 2018-05-16 | 주식회사 제닉 | Cosmetic composition for a dry sheet type mask pack and method for preparing the dry sheet type mask pack |
| KR20200060024A (en) * | 2018-11-22 | 2020-05-29 | (주)엘큐어 | Composition containing seaweed extracts for maskpack |
| CN109820801A (en) * | 2019-03-23 | 2019-05-31 | 上海优康化妆品有限公司 | A kind of mild repairing type whitening mask and its preparation process |
| CN112438904A (en) * | 2020-12-18 | 2021-03-05 | 现代百朗德生物科技(江苏)有限公司 | Moisturizing mask liquid containing glycerol glucoside and preparation method thereof |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2002051828A2 (en) * | 2000-12-22 | 2002-07-04 | L'oreal | Novel c-glycoside derivatives and use thereof |
| JP2005211425A (en) * | 2004-01-30 | 2005-08-11 | Sansho Shigyo Kk | Sheet-type cosmetics |
| CN202086810U (en) * | 2011-04-01 | 2011-12-28 | 黄芳 | Facial mask capable of preventing water from evaporating |
| WO2018129493A1 (en) * | 2017-01-09 | 2018-07-12 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Barrier patch with soluble film |
| US20220023183A1 (en) * | 2018-12-20 | 2022-01-27 | L'oreal | Composition comprising a polysaccharide, a polyol and a specific ester |
| WO2022239257A1 (en) * | 2021-05-14 | 2022-11-17 | L'oreal | Composition comprising skin care active ingredient and two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters |
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| FR3148714A1 (en) | 2024-11-22 |
| FR3148714B1 (en) | 2025-05-23 |
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