KR100245390B1 - Low irritating cosmetic compositions containing alphahydroxy acids - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a hypoallergenic anti-aging cosmetic containing alpha hydroxy acid, and alpha hydroxy acid is mixed with a water-in-oil type emulsion in which cyclomethicone, a volatile silicone, constitutes 50.0 parts by weight or more in an oil phase, and cetostearyl alcohol-ceramide. -When adding liquid crystalline gel composed of nonionic surfactant-cholesterol, it can significantly reduce skin side effects, and can produce cosmetic emulsion with excellent feeling of use and lasting effect.

Description

[Name of invention]

Hypoallergenic cosmetic composition containing alpha hydroxy acid

Detailed description of the invention

[Purpose of invention]

The present invention relates to a hypoallergenic cosmetic composition containing alpha hydroxy acid, and more particularly, to the alpha hydroxy acid or salt thereof widely used as a moisturizing and anti-aging ingredient in cosmetics, oil in which silicone oil is the main ingredient in the oil phase. A cosmetic composition blended with an aqueous emulsion and added with a liquid crystal gel, which is a cetostearyl alcohol-ceramide-nonionic surfactant-cholesterol mixture system, reduces the irritation of alpha hydroxy acids and has a good feeling of use and excellent durability of effects. It is about.

Brief description of the technical field to which the invention pertains and its prior art

Cosmetics were originally defined by painting, spraying, or other similar methods to clean or protect, beautify the human body, and keep skin or hair healthy, but are defined as mild to the human body. Due to this, anti-aging and whitening effect of the skin is expected to be a pharmaceutical effect. Therefore, most cosmetic manufacturers are making great efforts to develop products with excellent skin aging prevention and whitening effects.

Until now, vitamin A and its derivatives and alpha hydroxy acids may be the representative ingredients to have the most excellent efficacy in preventing and removing skin wrinkles. By the way, vitamin A and its derivatives are recognized to have an excellent effect on improving acne and wrinkles, but the stability in the formulation is poor, in many cases cause a skin side effect is limited in its use. Alpha hydroxy acids are also considered to be effective, but skin side effects are known to be the biggest problem.

[Technical problem to be achieved]

The present inventors have studied to develop a cosmetic having excellent skin anti-aging effect and low skin side effects, and as a result, alpha hydroxy acid or its salt is blended into a water-in-oil emulsion whose silicone oil is a main component in the oil phase, and cetostearyl When the liquid crystal gel, which is a mixture of alcohol-ceramide-nonionic surfactant-cholesterol, was added, it was found that the side effects of the alpha hydroxy acid were significantly reduced while the side effects of the skin were significantly reduced.

[Configuration and Function of Invention]

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type cosmetic composition comprising 0.5 to 20.0 parts by weight of alpha hydroxy acid or one or more of its salts and 0.5 to 10.0 parts by weight of a liquid crystal gel base.

The alpha hydroxy acid used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is a generic term for an organic acid having a hydroxyl group (hydroxy group, -OH) at the first carbon, that is, the carbon at the alpha position, such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, and the like. And sodium glycolate, potassium glycolate, sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium malate, potassium malate, sodium hydroxybutyrate, potassium hydroxybutyrate, and the like, which are neutralized with alkali for the purpose of pH adjustment. They are easily known to help remove old dead skin cells and create new cells, thus making skin healthy and preventing aging and wrinkles, as well as enhancing the skin's moisturizing and whitening effect. (Japanese Patent Publication No. 94-279258, World Patent No. 9447579, Japanese Patent Publication No. 96-133946, Japanese Patent Publication No. 94-234260).

However, as described above, the alpha hydroxy acid may have an excellent effect on the skin but may cause serious side effects such as edema, erythema, tingling, itching, burning, and the like. Therefore, attempts to reduce skin side effects have been made by various inventors so far. In US Pat. No. 55,16793, it has been tried to reduce skin irritation by the addition of vitamin C, that is, ascorbic acid. It was intended to improve this by containing powder. However, if side effects of skin are reduced to some extent when alpha hydroxy acid is combined with fatty alcohol to make ester compound, it is less effective than alpha hydroxy acid itself, and alpha hydride is added by simple addition of vitamin C or inorganic substance. It is difficult to fundamentally solve the skin side effects of oxyacids.

The skin side effects of alpha hydroxy acids are believed to be due to the temporary contact and penetration of high concentrations of alpha hydroxy acids into the skin. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to reduce skin side effects by controlling the amount of direct contact with the skin, alpha hydroxy acid was formulated into a water-in-oil emulsion, and a liquid crystal gel base composed of cetostearyl alcohol-ceramide-nonionic surfactant-cholesterol. Water-in-oil type emulsion and liquid crystal gel structure were added to form a protective film to control the transdermal absorption rate of alpha hydroxy acid.

In the present invention, the water-in-oil type emulsion has an advantage of excellent skin protection and treatment by forming a strong oil film on the skin compared to the oil-in-water type emulsion product and delivering moisture and skin active substances continuously for a long time. In particular, the water-in-oil type emulsion composed of the volatile silicone oil of the external wound removes the disadvantages of poor application, heavy and sticky feeling while maintaining the advantages of the general water-in-oil type. The silicone oil used in the present invention is cyclomethicone containing 3-6 cyclic dimethyl polysiloxane groups. That is, the water-in-oil type used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention contains 50.0 parts by weight or more of cyclomethicone in the oil phase, which is a trauma, and cyclomethicone has the following basic structural formula.

Liquid Cyrstal is an intermediate state between a solid and a liquid. It is usually an organic molecule having both a hydrophilic part and a lipophilic part, and the hydrophilic part is hydrophilic part and the hydrophobic part is uniformly arranged. It refers to a system that is created when it forms several layers (lamellar structure). Liquid crystals are produced at the interface to stabilize emulsions, stabilize the emulsions, and form a lamellar liquid crystal structure similar to the constituents of biological intercellular lipids to form a skin protective film and are being applied as an effective delivery medium for various water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients.

Liquid crystal gel base used in the cosmetic composition of the present invention is 9.0 to 12.0 parts by weight of ceramide, 2.0 to 4.0 parts by weight of cholesterol, 1.0 to 3.0 parts by weight of cetostearyl alcohol, 3.0 to 7.0 parts by weight of Fiji-15 oleate, propylene glycol It is comprised of 74.0-85.0 parts by weight.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises 0.5 to 20.0 parts by weight of alpha hydroxy acid or a salt thereof, 1.0 to 3.0 parts by weight of cetostearyl alcohol, 9 to 12.0 parts by weight of ceramide, and Fiji-15 oleate 3.0 as a nonionic surfactant. 0.5 to 10.0 parts by weight of a lipid liquid gel consisting of ˜7.0 parts by weight, 2.0 to 4.0 parts by weight of cholesterol and 74.0 to 85.0 parts by weight of propylene glycol, are incorporated in a water-in-oil type emulsion consisting of cyclomethicone which is 50 parts by weight or more in a traumatic oil phase. To prepare. The cosmetic composition thus prepared has less skin side effects due to alpha hydroxy acid.

If the amount of alpha hydroxy acid is less than 0.5, the effect is insignificant, and if it is used more than 20.0 parts by weight, it is difficult to reduce the side effects of the skin, and the stability of the formulation is also bad, making it difficult to commercialize. Lipid liquid gel is also less effective at 0.5 parts by weight or less, and more than 10.0 parts by weight of the formulation is poor in stability is difficult to use. In addition, when the lipid liquid gel is out of the above-mentioned range, the melting point is low or high, so it is difficult to stabilize in the formulation. Therefore, in order to apply the lipid liquid gel to the cosmetic composition, it is preferable to prepare within the above ratio.

On the other hand, in the production of water-in-oil emulsions, cyclomethicone is less than 50.0 parts by weight of the oil-in-water phase of the trauma, there is a bad feeling of stickiness and stiffness, which is a disadvantage of the water-in-oil type emulsions.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail through examples and comparative examples.

Example 1 Preparation of Liquid Crystal Gel Base

According to the raw materials and compositions shown in Table 1 below, these were mixed, heated and dissolved at 85 to 90 ° C, cooled, and stirred at a homomixer at 500 to 2000 rpm at 65 to 70 ° C, and then cooled to room temperature to naturally cool the liquid crystal gel base. Was prepared.

TABLE 1

Note 1) Product Name: Ceramide LS 3773 (Lab. Sero. France)

2) Product Name: LanetteO (Henkel, Germany)

3) Product Name: Emalex 515H (Nihon Emulsion, Japan)

Example 2

According to the raw materials and the composition shown in Table 2 below, the oil phase and the water phase were heated and dissolved at 65 to 70 ° C., respectively, and the oil phase was gradually added and mixed while stirring at a homomixer at 4,000 to 7,000 rpm to form a water-in-oil emulsion. At this time, the liquid crystal gel base and the cyclomethicone are added just before mixing the oil phase and the water phase, and the flavoring agent as an additive is added after mixing the water phase and the oil phase completely.

TABLE 2

Note 1) Product Name: KF-6017 (Shin Etsu, Japan)

2) Product Name: Silicone 344 (Dow Corning, USA)

Comparative Example 1

According to the raw materials and compositions shown in Table 3 below, alpha hydroxy acids were prepared by blending an oil-in-water emulsion, which is a conventional cosmetic base. In the preparation method thereof, the aqueous phase and the oil phase are each dissolved by heating at 75 to 80 ° C., mixed at 4,000 to 6,000 rpm using a homomixer, and cooled to room temperature. At this time, the flavor is mixed in the cooling process after mixing the water and oil phase.

TABLE 3

Note 1) Trade name: Amphisol K (Givaudan, Switzerland)

Comparative Example 2

According to the raw materials and compositions shown in Table 4 below, alpha hydroxy acid was added to a general water-in-oil emulsion for cosmetics.

As a manufacturing method thereof, it is the same as in the case of Example 2.

TABLE 4

Note 1) Product Name: Drakeol-7 (Penreco, USA)

2) Product Name: Arlacel 989 (ICI, USA)

Skin primary irritation test (patch test)

In order to examine the skin irritation of the products prepared according to the Examples and Comparative Examples, a certain amount (approximately 0.2 g) of each sample was applied to the back area of 50 healthy men and women and the pin chamber was removed for 4 hours. After the change of skin condition was visually read, the results are shown in Table 5.

TABLE 5

* Criteria-: No erythema or unusual phenomenon

+-: Slightly reddish

+: Significantly redder than the surroundings

++: Severe reddening and swelling around

** Stimulus

As can be seen from the skin primary irritation test results of Table 5, Example 2 containing alpha hydroxy acid in the liquid crystal gel base exhibited a lower irritation degree than Comparative Example 2 without using the liquid crystal gel base.

[Percutaneous absorption measurement test]

In vitro skin permeation tests were performed using the skin of hairless mice to determine the effect of promoting transdermal absorption on alpha hydroxy acids or salts thereof. 48 μl of the sample was injected into the skin surface having a diameter of 7.5 mm, and the amount permeated during each elapsed time using a transdermal absorber (Micron, Hanson) was quantified by high performance liquid chromatography, and the transmittance (%) is shown in Table 6.

TABLE 6

As shown in Table 6, it can be seen that Example 2 to which the liquid crystal gel base is added is continuously penetrated compared to Comparative Example 1 and Comparative Example 2, which means that the alpha hydroxy acid does not temporarily penetrate a large amount of skin side effects. The effect is meant to be lasting without causing it.

[Evaluation Test]

To evaluate the feeling of use of the examples and comparative examples, a quality evaluation questionnaire was conducted for women aged 20 to 50 years. The results of the questionnaire survey using the five-point scale method for the quality evaluation items for feeling are shown in Table 7 below. Example 2 contained more than 50.0 parts by weight of cyclomethicone in the oil phase, improving the feeling of use of the general water-in-oil emulsion like Comparative Example 2, that is, sticky, slow absorption, heavy coating, and general oil-in-water emulsion The feeling was almost similar to that of Comparative Example 1.

TABLE 7

Claims (4)

A water-in-oil type cosmetic composition comprising 0.5 to 20.0 parts by weight of an alpha hydroxy acid or salts thereof or 0.5 to 10.0 parts by weight of a liquid crystal gel base. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the water-in-oil type contains 50.0 parts by weight or more of cyclomethicone in the oil phase, which is an external wound, and the cyclomethicone has a basic structural formula as follows.

According to claim 1, wherein the liquid crystal gel base is Ceramide 9.0-12.0 parts by weight, Cholesterol 2.0-4.0 parts by weight, 1.0 to 3.0 parts by weight of cetostearyl alcohol, 3.0 to 7.0 parts by weight of sebum -15 oleate, propylene glycol 74.0 Cosmetic composition, characterized in that consisting of ~ 85.0 parts by weight. The method according to claim 1, wherein alpha hydroxy acid or a salt thereof is an organic acid having a hydroxyl group at an alpha carbon position, that is, glycolic acid, lactic acid, hydroxybutyric acid, malic acid, and sodium glycolate and glycolic acid which are neutralized with alkali. A cosmetic composition comprising one of potassium, sodium lactate, potassium lactate, sodium hydroxybutyrate, potassium hydroxybutyrate, sodium malate and potassium malate.