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WO2023184315A1 - Kit for caring for keratin materials - Google Patents

Kit for caring for keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023184315A1
WO2023184315A1 PCT/CN2022/084340 CN2022084340W WO2023184315A1 WO 2023184315 A1 WO2023184315 A1 WO 2023184315A1 CN 2022084340 W CN2022084340 W CN 2022084340W WO 2023184315 A1 WO2023184315 A1 WO 2023184315A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
water soluble
oil
metal salt
kit according
granules
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2022/084340
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Changjian HOU
Zhenxi LEE
Liang Zhang
Xing GU
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to EP22934163.1A priority Critical patent/EP4507663A1/en
Priority to CN202280093028.7A priority patent/CN118785885A/en
Priority to PCT/CN2022/084340 priority patent/WO2023184315A1/en
Priority to FR2203951A priority patent/FR3134009B1/en
Publication of WO2023184315A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023184315A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0208Tissues; Wipes; Patches
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212Face masks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A61K8/0225Granulated powders
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic product for topical application.
  • the present invention relates to a kit for caring for keratin materials.
  • the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
  • compositions for caring for keratin materials in particular keratin materials, masks are known to have high penetration efficacy on the keratin materials.
  • Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
  • paste type peel-off type
  • gel type and wet tissue type masks are more often used for caring for the skin.
  • tissue type category there exists a new dry type of “fresh mix” mask, which, upon application, the tissue is mixed with the cosmetic composition. This type of mask is favored by the consumers for many aspects, such as a better stability of skin active compounds, aunique usage experience, and so on.
  • a mask for caring the skin comprising water soluble metal salts in dry form, which has a good stability so that the water soluble metal salts contained can dissolve quickly in water and a jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition can be finished very soon when the mask is intended to be applied on the skin.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring keratin materials comprising water soluble metal salts in dry form, which has a good stability so that the water soluble metal salts contained can dissolve quickly in water and the jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition can be finished very soon when the mask is intended to be applied on keratin materials
  • the present invention provides a kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers;
  • the kit according to the present invention is stable, indicating that the water soluble metal salt does not absorb a great amount of water so that it can dissolve in water quickly, for example, in no more than 15 seconds.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit according to the present invention, comprising:
  • keratin materials is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
  • a composition in dry form means no water is added into the composition deliberately, preferably, the water content of the composition is less than 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.
  • akit for caring for keratin materials comprises:
  • metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers;
  • the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate.
  • water insoluble means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’ t break apart upon immersion in water.
  • the substrate may be a woven or nonwoven fabric made of a fiber chosen from natural fibers such as alginate, cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers, or a combination thereof. Two or more selected from the other fibers may be used in combination.
  • the substrate can be made into a wide variety of shapes and forms such as flat pads, thick pads, thin sheets of irregular thickness, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the kit.
  • the substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin in the case of mask to which topical application is desired.
  • the substrate when the mask is applied to the face, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary.
  • Non-limiting examples of the substrates useful in the present invention are described, for example, in the patent application WO 02/062132, or EP 2489286A.
  • the water insoluble substrate may comprise the water insoluble alginate fiber, especially calcium alginate fiber, in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 100 wt. %, especially from 15 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the water insoluble substrate.
  • the water insoluble substrate may comprise other fiber in an amount ranging from 0 wt. %to 90 wt. %, especially from 50 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the water insoluble substrate.
  • the water insoluble substrate is a suitable nonwoven fabric made of 20 wt.%of calcium alginate fiber and 80 wt. %of Lyocell fiber, relative to the total weight of the substrate, which is commercially available from the Sanjiang company under the name M762R-40CN.
  • the kit according to the present invention comprises a cosmetic composition in dry form.
  • composition comprises:
  • metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates, and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers;
  • the mean particle size will correspond to the number-average diameter distribution.
  • a composition in dry form means no water is added into the composition deliberately, preferably, the water content of the composition is less than 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.
  • the metal salt granules have a mean particle size of 40-80 mesh.
  • the mean particle size may be determined by any standard method such as optical methods (quasielastic scattering or laser scattering) , centrifugation methods or methods of microscopic visualization and image analysis.
  • the metal salt granules are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 45 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the water soluble metal salt is selected from tartrates and citrates.
  • the water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium tartrates, sodium citrates, potassium tartrates, potassium citrates, calcium tartrates, calcium citrates, and combinations thereof.
  • sodium citrates are used to indicate monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and trisodium citrate, and other water soluble metal salt may be understood in a similar way.
  • the at least one water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium citrates.
  • the at least one water soluble metal salt comprises trisodium citrate.
  • Binding agents selected from water soluble polymers selected from water soluble polymers
  • the at least one binding agent in the metal salt granules is selected from water soluble polymers.
  • binding agent a polymer which has adhesive properties in liquid stage and which hardens upon the drying.
  • water soluble polymer is meant a polymer which upon immersion in water at 25°C. disintegrates and/or dissolves slowly e.g. over period of several minutes to several days without stirring.
  • the binding agent is selected among natural and synthetic adhesive polymers.
  • the binding agent is selected from starches, gelatin, polyacrylamides, polyvinylalcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum and its derivatives such as methylcellulose derivatives, quaternary ammonium cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum and their derivatives, carboxypolymethylene, and their combinations.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • polyacrylamides it can be cited as non-limiting examples sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, crosslinked polyacrylamides, and commercially available grades of such polymers e.g. Hydrosorb) , .
  • Non-limiting examples of polyvinylalcohols are PVA 4-88, PVA 5-88, PVA 8-88, PVA 18-88, PVA 26-88, PVA 40-88, BE-26, BE-24E and BE-28 (classified on the basis of viscosity and level of hydrolysis or Molecular weight) .
  • polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers it can be cited as non-limiting examples PVP K-15, PVP K-30, PVP K-60, PVP K-90 and PVP K-120 (classified on the basis of viscosity and level of hydrolysis or Molecular weight) .
  • Non limiting examples of polyethylene glycols are PEG-200, PEG-300, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-1500, PEG-2000, PEG-4000 and PEG-6000.
  • the binding agent is selected from xanthan gum, starch, cellulose gum, and a combination thereof.
  • the binding agent is cellulose gum.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one water soluble metal salt in the metal salt granules is from 1: 49 to 1: 9, preferably from 1: 49 to 1: 5.
  • the cosmetic composition in dry form further comprises oil granules comprising at least one oil and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers.
  • the mask according to the present invention can deliver a good sensory.
  • the oil granules have a mean particle size of 20-80 mesh.
  • the oil granules are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oils refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2 /min, inclusive.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • the oils used in the present invention are selected from hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • oils used in the present invention are selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the oil is selected from octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene, polybutene, or a combination thereof.
  • the oil is present in the oil granules in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the oil granules.
  • Binding agents selected from water soluble polymers selected from water soluble polymers
  • the at least one binding agent in the oil granules is selected from water soluble polymers.
  • the binding agent is selected among natural and synthetic adhesive polymers.
  • the binding agent is selected from starches, modified starch, gelatin, detrin, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum, carboxypolymethylene, and a combination thereof.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers
  • the binding agent is selected from cellulose gum, xanthan gum, dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof.
  • the binding agent is selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one oil in the oil granules is from 3: 7 to 9: 1, preferably from 3: 2 to 4: 1, more preferably from 3: 1 to 4: 1.
  • the oil granules may also comprise at least one polyol.
  • the polyol can be selected from glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1, 2, 4-butanetriol, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, and a combination thereof.
  • the polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the oil granules.
  • Oil granules that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the product sold under the name MILKY POWDER C002, available from CHONGQING PELLETS TECHNIQUES TRADE.
  • a cosmetic active agent is capable of bringing cosmetic effect to a user, especially to keratin materials, e.g., to the face.
  • Such cosmetic effect can be, for example, whitening, anti-aging, hydrating, and/or moisturizing.
  • the active agents conventionally useful for a cosmetic product can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as long as it is water soluble.
  • composition of the present invention is particularly advantageous to comprise water soluble active agents which are unstable in solvated state.
  • unstable we intend to mean an ingredient or composition undergoes significant change in its structure or properties within 2 months, or preferably 1 month, in a solvent or in solvated state.
  • Such change may be any one undesirable for the cosmetic use, including, but not limited to, color change, degradation, decomposition, reaction with others, significant evaporation, deposition, crystallization, and the like.
  • water soluble active agents mentions can be made of water soluble vitamins.
  • vitamin C ascorbic acid
  • vitamin B group e.g., vitamin B5 (panthenol)
  • vitamin B3 niacinamide
  • vitamin B1 and vitamin B2 nicotinic acid
  • folic acid pantothenic acid
  • derivatives of these vitamins in particular esters
  • Vitamin C and vitamin B groups are preferably used. Vitamin C is particularly used.
  • the vitamins that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the product sold under the name COLORLETS VC ORANGE, available from CHONGQING PELLETS TECHNIQUES TRADE, which comprises ascorbic acid.
  • the water soluble cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.
  • the "additional" active ingredient is different from those useful for the water soluble cosmetic active agent mentioned above.
  • the cosmetic composition When the cosmetic composition includes the additional cosmetic active ingredients, it may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in particular in powder state.
  • ⁇ -or ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, 5-octanoylsalicyclic acid, ⁇ -hydroxydecanoic acid, ⁇ -hydroxylauric, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, acrylic acid, ⁇ -hydroxybutyric acid, ⁇ -hydroxyisobutyric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, phosphoric acid, pyruvic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, or hyaluronic acid, or salts thereof.
  • ⁇ -or ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, 5-octanoylsalicyclic acid, ⁇ -hydroxydecanoic acid, ⁇ -hydroxylauric, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, acrylic acid, ⁇ -hydroxybutyric acid, ⁇ -hydroxyisobutyric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, phosphoric acid, pyruvic acid
  • anti-acne agents such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, dextrorotary and levorotary sulfur-containing amino acids, their salts, and their N-acetyl derivatives such as N-acetyl cysteine, or agents seeking to prevent aging of the skin and/or to improve its state, for example the above-mentioned ⁇ -and ⁇ -hydroxy acids, retinoids such as retinoic acid, retinol, and its esters, such as, for example, retinyl propionate, and retinyl acetate, or retinyl palmitate, niacinamide, allantoin, extracts of aloe, azelaic acid, bisabolol, phytic acid, collagen, or agents stimulating the formation of collagen, dextrorotary and levorotary sulfur-containing amino acids and derivatives thereof as mentioned above, elastin, N-acetyl D-glucosamine, lute
  • the skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient depending on the intended purpose.
  • composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and combinations thereof.
  • fragrances for instance, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol
  • bactericides for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol
  • pH regulators for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide
  • fillers for example, zea mays (corn) starch
  • the present invention provides a kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
  • metal salt granules comprising sodium citrate and cellulose gum
  • oil granules comprising at least one oil selected from squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof, and a binding agent selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof;
  • the kit according to the present invention can be used as a skin mask and is intended for topical administration for skin care.
  • the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit according to the present invention, comprising:
  • the mask as defined above are applied on at least one zone of the skin.
  • extra-introduced solvent means that the solvent may be unnecessary to be provided as a part of the kit of the present invention, but can be incorporated with the cosmetic composition, just before use.
  • the useful solvent for the cosmetic composition comprises water.
  • the water used may be distillated water, deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizines water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water.
  • the water may also be reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
  • Tap water can be used as a part or whole of the water needed.
  • the solvent may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25°C) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
  • monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol
  • the solvent is present in a content ranging from 60%to 98%by weight, preferably from 70%to 95%by weight, or from 80 to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and the solvent.
  • the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
  • 50%alginate tissue made of 50%alginate fibre and 50%Lyocell fiber, with a basis weight of 40 gsm, available from the company Sanjiang.
  • Treatment tissue made of viscose fibre, with a basis weight of 53 gsm, available from the company N-bond.
  • Kits of examples 1-9 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2-5, wherein examples 1 and 6 are comparative examples (CE) out of the present invention, examples 2-5, 7-9 are invention examples (IE) according to the present invention.
  • ASCORBIC ACID (and) YELLOW 6 comprises 90 wt. %of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of ASCORBIC ACID (and) YELLOW 6.
  • SQUALANE and CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES (and) FRAGRANCE/PARFUM (and) TOCOPHERYL ACETATE comprises 47.42 wt. %of squalane, 24.69 wt. %of caprylic/capric glycerides, 19.75 wt. %of dextrin, 4.94 wt. %of silica, 2.2 wt. %of fragrance/parfum, 1 wt.
  • %of tocopheryl acetate relative to the total weight of SQUALANE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES (and) FRAGRANCE/PARFUM (and) TOCOPHERYL ACETATE and the particle size of the granules is 20-80 mesh.
  • compositions listed above were prepared by mixing the components.
  • compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
  • composition to be evaluated was put in a room at 45°C and 80%humidity for 2 months.
  • stability is rated according to the following standard.
  • Dissolution speed was evaluated by measuring the time for granules dissolution in water with shaking. If it is over 30s, then the dissolution speed is considered to be slow; and if it is shorter than 15s, then the dissolution speed is considered to be fast.
  • the sensory was evaluated by ten volunteers by (i) distributing the cosmetic composition to be tested along with water in the water insoluble substrate to form a mask; (ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials; (iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for 15 minutes; and (iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials, and providing their feedback on overall preference of sensory, especially on moisturizing sensation, slippery, softness of skin, and non-stickiness.
  • the sensory was rated according to the following standard.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Biomedical Technology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

It relates to a kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising: A) a water insoluble substrate; and B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising: ⅰ) metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers; and ⅱ) at least one water soluble cosmetic active ingredient. It also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit.

Description

KIT FOR CARING FOR KERATIN MATERIALS TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic product for topical application. In particular, the present invention relates to a kit for caring for keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials.
BACKGROUND ART
It has always been an ultimate goal in the cosmetic filed to deliver products with skin benefits such as hydration, moisturizing, whitening, cleansing, and so on.
Among all the compositions for caring for keratin materials, in particular keratin materials, masks are known to have high penetration efficacy on the keratin materials.
Masks are popular with many consumers since they can put the masks on the face for a period of time and then take away the masks, without massaging on the face during the application.
Conventional mask products are paste type, peel-off type, gel type, and tissue type. Among them, paste type and peel-off type masks are mainly used for cleansing of the keratin materials, whereas gel type and wet tissue type masks are more often used for caring for the skin. In tissue type category, there exists a new dry type of “fresh mix” mask, which, upon application, the tissue is mixed with the cosmetic composition. This type of mask is favored by the consumers for many aspects, such as a better stability of skin active compounds, aunique usage experience, and so on.
For some dry masks comprising water soluble metal salts such as sodium citrate in dry powder, the powder dissolves in water very slowly and there might be stability issue after being remained at 45℃ and 80 RH%for 2 months, thereby the dissolving speed of sodium citrate will be slow and the jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition is also slow, which gives the consumer a very unpleasant feeling.
Thus, there is a need for a mask for caring the skin comprising water soluble metal salts in dry form, which has a good stability so that the water soluble metal salts contained can dissolve quickly in water and a jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition can be finished very soon when the mask is intended to be applied on the skin.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
Thus, an object of the present invention is to provide a mask for caring keratin materials comprising water soluble metal salts in dry form, which has a good stability so that the water soluble metal salts contained can dissolve quickly in water and the jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition can be finished very soon when the mask is intended to be applied on keratin materials
Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention provides a kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate; and
B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising:
i) metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers; and 
ii) at least one water soluble cosmetic active ingredient.
The kit according to the present invention is stable, indicating that the water soluble metal salt does not absorb a great amount of water so that it can dissolve in water quickly, for example, in no more than 15 seconds.
It was found that, when the cosmetic composition is distributed in the water insoluble substrate along with water, the water soluble metal salt quickly dissolves in water and a jellification reaction between the tissue and the cosmetic composition happens quickly.
According to a second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit according to the present invention, comprising:
(i) distributing the cosmetic composition along with an extra-introduced solvent in the water insoluble substrate to form a mask;
(ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;
(iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as  commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.
In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between... and…" and "from... to... " .
Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .
Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values, which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” is intended to cover human skin, mucous membranes such as the lips. Facial skin is most particularly considered according to the present invention.
All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.
Within the context of the present invention, the term "a composition in dry form" means no water is added into the composition deliberately, preferably, the water content of the composition is less than 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.
According to the first aspect, akit for caring for keratin materials comprises:
A) a water insoluble substrate;
B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising:
i) metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers; and
ii) at least one water soluble cosmetic active ingredient.
Water insoluble substrate
According to the first aspect, the mask according to the present invention comprises a water insoluble substrate.
For the purpose of the invention, the term “water insoluble” means that the substrate is not dissolvable in water and it doesn’ t break apart upon immersion in water.
Typically, the substrate may be a woven or nonwoven fabric made of a fiber chosen from natural fibers such as alginate, cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers, or a combination thereof. Two or more selected from the other fibers may be used in combination.
The substrate can be made into a wide variety of shapes and forms such as flat pads, thick pads, thin sheets of irregular thickness, depending on the desired use and characteristic of the kit.
Just for example, the substrate is typically designed to fit the area of the skin in the case of mask to which topical application is desired. To this end, when the mask is applied to the face, the substrate is designed to correspond to the shape of the face avoiding the eye, nostril, and mouth areas, as necessary. Non-limiting examples of the substrates useful in the present invention are described, for example, in the patent application WO 02/062132, or EP 2489286A.
In particular, the water insoluble substrate may comprise the water insoluble alginate fiber, especially calcium alginate fiber, in an amount ranging from 10 wt. %to 100 wt. %, especially from 15 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the water insoluble substrate.
In particular, the water insoluble substrate may comprise other fiber in an amount ranging from 0 wt. %to 90 wt. %, especially from 50 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the water insoluble substrate.
More particularly, the water insoluble substrate is a suitable nonwoven fabric made of 20 wt.%of calcium alginate fiber and 80 wt. %of Lyocell fiber, relative to the total weight of the substrate, which is commercially available from the Sanjiang company under the name M762R-40CN.
Cosmetic composition
According to the first aspect, the kit according to the present invention comprises a cosmetic composition in dry form.
The composition comprises:
i) metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates, and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers; and
ii) at least one water soluble cosmetic active ingredient.
The mean particle size will correspond to the number-average diameter distribution.
As mentioned previously, the term "a composition in dry form" means no water is added into the composition deliberately, preferably, the water content of the composition is less than 0.2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably, the composition does not comprise water.
Metal salt granules
Preferably, the metal salt granules have a mean particle size of 40-80 mesh.
The mean particle size may be determined by any standard method such as optical methods (quasielastic scattering or laser scattering) , centrifugation methods or methods of microscopic visualization and image analysis.
Advantageously, the metal salt granules are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 45 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Water soluble metal salts
The water soluble metal salt is selected from tartrates and citrates.
In particular, the water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium tartrates, sodium citrates, potassium tartrates, potassium citrates, calcium tartrates, calcium citrates, and combinations thereof.
Herein, sodium citrates are used to indicate monosodium citrate, disodium citrate and trisodium citrate, and other water soluble metal salt may be understood in a similar way.
Preferably, the at least one water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium citrates.
In particular, the at least one water soluble metal salt comprises trisodium citrate.
Binding agents selected from water soluble polymers
The at least one binding agent in the metal salt granules is selected from water soluble polymers.
By “binding agent” , it may be understood a polymer which has adhesive properties in liquid stage and which hardens upon the drying.
By “water soluble polymer” is meant a polymer which upon immersion in water at 25℃. disintegrates and/or dissolves slowly e.g. over period of several minutes to several days without stirring.
Preferably, the binding agent is selected among natural and synthetic adhesive polymers.
More preferably, the binding agent is selected from starches, gelatin, polyacrylamides, polyvinylalcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum and its derivatives such as methylcellulose derivatives, quaternary ammonium cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum and their derivatives, carboxypolymethylene, and their combinations.
Among the polyacrylamides, it can be cited as non-limiting examples sodium polyacrylates, potassium polyacrylates, crosslinked polyacrylamides, and commercially available grades of such polymers e.g. Hydrosorb) , 
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000001
.
Non-limiting examples of polyvinylalcohols are PVA 4-88, PVA 5-88, PVA 8-88, PVA 18-88, PVA 26-88, PVA 40-88, BE-26, BE-24E and BE-28 (classified on the basis of viscosity and level of hydrolysis or Molecular weight) .
Among the polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers, it can be cited as non-limiting examples PVP K-15, PVP K-30, PVP K-60, PVP K-90 and PVP K-120 (classified on the basis of viscosity and level of hydrolysis or Molecular weight) .
Non limiting examples of polyethylene glycols are PEG-200, PEG-300, PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-1500, PEG-2000, PEG-4000 and PEG-6000.
More preferably, the binding agent is selected from xanthan gum, starch, cellulose gum, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the binding agent is cellulose gum.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one water soluble metal salt in the metal salt granules is from 1: 49 to 1: 9, preferably from 1: 49 to 1: 5.
Metal salt granules comprising the at least one water soluble metal salt and the at least one binding agent that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the product sold under the name COLORLETS SODIUM C WHITE, available from CHONGQING PELLETS TECHNIQUES TRADE, which comprises sodium citrate and cellulose gum.
It was found that, as compared with water soluble metal salts in powder form, the water soluble metal salt in granule form can dissolve more quickly.
Oil granules
Preferably, the cosmetic composition in dry form further comprises oil granules comprising at least one oil and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers.
With the presence of said oil granules, the mask according to the present invention can deliver a good sensory.
Preferably, the oil granules have a mean particle size of 20-80 mesh.
Advantageously, if presents, the oil granules are present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oils
The term “oil” refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm 2/min, inclusive.
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or lips at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm 2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m 3 chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm 2) and pertime unit (minute) .
Preferably, the oils used in the present invention are selected from hydrocarbon-based oils.
The term "hydrocarbon oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
More preferably, the oils used in the present invention are selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
Most preferably, the oil is selected from octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene, polybutene, or a combination thereof.
Preferably, the oil is present in the oil granules in an amount ranging from 60 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 65 wt. %to 85 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the oil granules.
Binding agents selected from water soluble polymers
The at least one binding agent in the oil granules is selected from water soluble polymers.
Preferably, the binding agent is selected among natural and synthetic adhesive polymers.
More preferably, the binding agent is selected from starches, modified starch, gelatin, detrin, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum, carboxypolymethylene, and a combination thereof.
More preferably, the binding agent is selected from cellulose gum, xanthan gum, dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof.
Most preferably, the binding agent is selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof.
Advantageously, the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one oil in the oil granules is from 3: 7 to 9: 1, preferably from 3: 2 to 4: 1, more preferably from 3: 1 to 4: 1.
Polyols
The oil granules may also comprise at least one polyol.
Preferably, the polyol can be selected from glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1, 3-butanediol, 2, 3-butanediol, 1, 4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1, 3-butanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1, 6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1, 2, 4-butanetriol, 1, 2, 6-hexanetriol, and a combination thereof.
If presents, preferably, the polyol is present in an amount ranging from 0.01 wt. %to 5 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the oil granules.
Oil granules that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the product sold under the name MILKY POWDER C002, available from CHONGQING PELLETS TECHNIQUES TRADE.
It was found that, with the use of oil granules, nourishing sensory and hydration is improved.
Water soluble cosmetic active ingredient
A cosmetic active agent is capable of bringing cosmetic effect to a user, especially to keratin materials, e.g., to the face. Such cosmetic effect can be, for example, whitening, anti-aging, hydrating, and/or moisturizing. The active agents conventionally useful for a cosmetic product can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, as long as it is water soluble.
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition of the present invention is particularly advantageous to comprise water soluble active agents which are unstable in solvated state.
For the purpose of the present invention, by “unstable” we intend to mean an ingredient or composition undergoes significant change in its structure or properties within 2 months, or preferably 1 month, in a solvent or in solvated state. Such change may be any one undesirable for the cosmetic use, including, but not limited to, color change, degradation, decomposition, reaction with others, significant evaporation, deposition, crystallization, and the like.
Among unlimited examples of water soluble active agents, mentions can be made of water soluble vitamins.
The useful examples of vitamin comprise vitamin C (ascorbic acid) , vitamin B group (e.g., vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3 (niacinamide) , vitamin B1 and vitamin B2) , nicotinic acid, folic acid, pantothenic acid, the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their combinations.
Vitamin C and vitamin B groups are preferably used. Vitamin C is particularly used.
The vitamins that are suitable for use in the present invention may be represented, for example, by the product sold under the name COLORLETS VC ORANGE, available from CHONGQING PELLETS TECHNIQUES TRADE, which comprises ascorbic acid.
Advantageously, the water soluble cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional cosmetic active ingredients
Preferably, the cosmetic composition may comprise an additional cosmetic active ingredient.
For the purpose of the invention, the "additional" active ingredient is different from those useful for the water soluble cosmetic active agent mentioned above.
When the cosmetic composition includes the additional cosmetic active ingredients, it may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition in particular in powder state.
As additional cosmetic active ingredients that can be used in the present invention, particular mention can be made of: α-orβ-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid, 5-octanoylsalicyclic acid, α-hydroxydecanoic acid, α-hydroxylauric, tartaric acid, glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, acrylic acid, α-hydroxybutyric acid, α-hydroxyisobutyric acid, malic acid, mandelic acid, phosphoric acid, pyruvic acid, lactobionic acid, salicylic acid, or hyaluronic acid, or salts thereof.
It is also possible to use anti-acne agents, such as benzoyl peroxide, octopirox, dextrorotary and levorotary sulfur-containing amino acids, their salts, and their N-acetyl derivatives such as N-acetyl cysteine, or agents seeking to prevent aging of the skin and/or to improve its state, for example the above-mentionedα-andβ-hydroxy acids, retinoids such as retinoic acid, retinol, and its esters, such as, for example, retinyl propionate, and retinyl acetate, or retinyl palmitate, niacinamide, allantoin, extracts of aloe, azelaic acid, bisabolol, phytic acid, collagen, or agents stimulating the formation of collagen, dextrorotary and levorotary sulfur-containing amino acids and derivatives thereof as mentioned above, elastin, N-acetyl D-glucosamine, luteolin, or antioxidants such as green tea or active fractions thereof, glycerin, laponite, caffeine, essential aromatic oils, coloring agents, free-radical scavengers, moisturizers, depigmenting agents, agents for improving the color of the skin such as artificial-tanning agents of the dihydroxyacetone or tyrosin ester type, liporegulators, softeners, anti-wrinkle agents, keratolytic agents, fresheners, deodorants, anesthetics, nourishing agents, and combinations thereof.
The skilled in the art can adjust the amount of the cosmetic active ingredient depending on the intended purpose.
Additional adjuvants or additives
The composition may comprise may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives depending on their nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents (for example, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, pH regulators (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide) , fillers (for example, zea mays (corn) starch) and combinations thereof.
The skilled in the art can select the amount of the additional adjuvants or additive so as not to adversely impact the final use of the composition according to the present invention.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
A) a water insoluble substrate comprising alginate fiber and/or cellulose fiber; and
B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising:
i) metal salt granules comprising sodium citrate and cellulose gum;
ii) oil granules comprising at least one oil selected from squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof, and a binding agent selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof; and
iii) at least one vitamin.
Galenic form and use
The kit according to the present invention can be used as a skin mask and is intended for topical administration for skin care.
According to the second aspect, the present invention provides a non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit according to the present invention, comprising:
(i) distributing the cosmetic composition along with an extra-introduced solvent in the water insoluble substrate to form a mask;
(ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;
(iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
(iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
By “used as a skin mask” it may be understood that the mask as defined above are applied on at least one zone of the skin.
The phrase "extra-introduced" solvent means that the solvent may be unnecessary to be provided as a part of the kit of the present invention, but can be incorporated with the cosmetic composition, just before use.
The useful solvent for the cosmetic composition comprises water.
The water used may be distillated water, deionized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The water may also be reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.
Tap water can be used as a part or whole of the water needed.
The solvent may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1-C 4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C 1-C 4) alkyl ethers, and combinations thereof.
Advantageously, the solvent is present in a content ranging from 60%to 98%by weight, preferably from 70%to 95%by weight, or from 80 to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition and the solvent.
Preferably, the application time is from 5 minutes to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 minutes to 30 minutes.
The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
EXAMPLES
Main raw materials used for preparing compositions for kits, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000002
Substrates used:
50%alginate tissue: made of 50%alginate fibre and 50%Lyocell fiber, with a basis weight of 40 gsm, available from the company Sanjiang.
Treatment tissue: made of viscose fibre, with a basis weight of 53 gsm, available from the company N-bond.
Examples 1-9
Kits of examples 1-9 were prepared according to the amounts given in Tables 2-5, wherein examples 1 and 6 are comparative examples (CE) out of the present invention, examples 2-5, 7-9 are invention examples (IE) according to the present invention.
Table 2
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000003
1) : the weight ratio of cellulose gum to sodium citrate is 1: 49 and the particle size of the granules is 40-80 mesh.
2) : ASCORBIC ACID (and) YELLOW 6 comprises 90 wt. %of ascorbic acid, relative to the total weight of ASCORBIC ACID (and) YELLOW 6.
3) : SQUALANE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES (and) FRAGRANCE/PARFUM (and) TOCOPHERYL ACETATE comprises 47.42 wt. %of squalane, 24.69 wt. %of caprylic/capric glycerides, 19.75 wt. %of dextrin, 4.94 wt. %of silica, 2.2 wt. %of fragrance/parfum, 1 wt. %of tocopheryl acetate, relative to the total weight of SQUALANE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC GLYCERIDES (and) FRAGRANCE/PARFUM (and) TOCOPHERYL ACETATE and the particle size of the granules is 20-80 mesh.
Table 3
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000004
1) , 2) and 3) : the same as above.
Table 4
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000005
1) , 2) and 3) : the same as above.
Table 5
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000007
1) , 2) and 3) : the same as above.
Preparation process:
The compositions listed above were prepared by mixing the components.
Evaluation:
The compositions obtained above were evaluated as follows.
Stability
The stability was evaluated as follows:
The composition to be evaluated was put in a room at 45℃ and 80%humidity for 2 months. The stability is rated according to the following standard.
● If caking or melting happened in the first week, the stability is considered as unacceptable;
● If caking or melting happened in the second or third week, the stability is considered as acceptable;
● If caking or melting happened in the fourth week, the stability is considered as good;
● If caking or melting happened in the fifth week, the stability is considered as very good;
● If caking or melting have not happened after the fifth week, the stability is considered as superb.
Dissolution speed
Dissolution speed was evaluated by measuring the time for granules dissolution in water with shaking. If it is over 30s, then the dissolution speed is considered to be slow; and if it is shorter than 15s, then the dissolution speed is considered to be fast.
Sensory
The sensory was evaluated by ten volunteers by (i) distributing the cosmetic composition to be tested along with water in the water insoluble substrate to form a mask; (ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials; (iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for 15 minutes; and (iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials, and providing their feedback on overall preference of sensory, especially on moisturizing sensation, slippery, softness of skin, and non-stickiness.
The sensory was rated according to the following standard.
● If 1-3 of 10 volunteers feel like the sensory delivered by the mask, the sensory is considered as unacceptable;
● If 4-5 of 10 volunteers feel like the sensory delivered by the mask, the sensory is considered as acceptable;
● If 6-7 of 10 volunteers feel like the sensory delivered by the mask, the sensory is considered as good;
● If 8-9 of 10 volunteers feel like the sensory delivered by the mask, the sensory is considered as very good;
● If 10 of 10 volunteers feel like the sensory delivered by the mask, the sensory is considered as superb.
The results on stability, dissolution speed, and the sensory evaluation of the kits of examples 1-9 were listed in Table 6.
Table 6
Figure PCTCN2022084340-appb-000008
Note: X means unacceptable, △ means acceptable, ○↓ means good, ○ means very good, ○↑ means superb.

Claims (15)

  1. A kit for caring for keratin materials, comprising:
    A) a water insoluble substrate; and
    B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising:
    i) metal salt granules comprising at least one water soluble metal salt selected from tartrates and citrates and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers; and
    ii) at least one water soluble cosmetic active ingredient.
  2. The kit according to claim 1, wherein the metal salt granules have a mean particle size of 40-80 mesh.
  3. The kit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the water insoluble substrate is a woven or non-woven fabric made of a fiber chosen from natural fibers such as alginate, cotton, pulp, bamboo and cellulose fibers, semi-natural fibers such as viscose rayon fibers, and synthetic fibers such as polyester fibers, polyethylene terephthalate fibers, polyethylene fibers and polypropylene fibers, or a combination thereof.
  4. The kit according to any of claims 1-3, wherein the water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium tartrates, sodium citrates, potassium tartrates, potassium citrates, calcium tartrates, calcium citrates, and combinations thereof; preferably, the water soluble metal salt is selected from sodium citrates; more preferably, the at least one water soluble metal salt comprises trisodium citrate
  5. The kit according to any of claims 1-4, wherein the binding agent in the metal salt granules is selected from vegetable starches, gelatin, polyacrylamides, polyvinylalcohol, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum and its derivatives such as methylcellulose derivatives, quaternary ammonium cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum and their derivatives, carboxypolymethylene, and their combinations; preferably, the binding agent is selected from xanthan gum, starch, cellulose gum, and a combination thereof; more preferably the binding agent is cellulose gum.
  6. The kit according to any of claims 1-5, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one water soluble metal salt in the metal salt granules is from 1: 49 to 1: 9, preferably from 1: 49 to 1: 5.
  7. The kit according to any of claims 1-6, wherein the metal salt granules are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 5 wt. %to 45 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  8. The kit according to any of claims 1-7, further comprising oil granules comprising at least one oil and at least one binding agent selected from water soluble polymers, preferably, the oil granules have a mean particle size of 20-80 mesh, .
  9. The kit according to claim 8, wherein the at least one oil is selected from hydrocarbon-based oils; preferably, the at least one oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils; more preferably, the at least one oil is selected from octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalene, polybutene, or a combination thereof.
  10. The kit according to claim 8 or 9, wherein the binding agent in the oil granules is selected from vegetable starches, modified starch, gelatin, detrin, polyacrylic acid, polyamines, polyethyleneimines, polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers (PVP) , polyethylene glycols, cellulose gum, xanthan gum, agar, pectin gum, guar gum, carboxypolymethylene, and a combination thereof; preferably, the binding agent is selected from cellulose gum, xanthan gum, dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof; more preferably, the binding agent is selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof.
  11. The kit according to any of claims 8-10, wherein the weight ratio of the at least one binding agent to the at least one oil in the oil granules is from 3: 7 to 9: 1, preferably from 3: 2 to 4: 1, more preferably from 3: 1 to 4: 1.
  12. The kit according to any of claims 8-11, wherein the oil granules are present in an amount ranging from 1 wt. %to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  13. The kit according to any of claims 1-12, wherein the water soluble cosmetic active ingredient is selected from water soluble vitamins, such as vitamin C, vitamin B, nicotinic acid, folic acid, pantothenic acid, the derivatives of these vitamins, and their combinations, preferably, the water soluble cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 1 wt.%to 60 wt. %, preferably from 10 wt. %to 50 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  14. The kit according to claim 1, comprising:
    A) a water insoluble substrate comprising alginate fiber and/or cellulose fiber; and
    B) a cosmetic composition in dry form comprising:
    i) metal salt granules comprising sodium citrate and cellulose gum;
    ii) oil granules comprising at least one oil selected from squalane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and a combination thereof, and a binding agent selected from dextrin, modified starch, and a combination thereof; and
    iii) at least one vitamin.
  15. A non-therapeutic process for caring for keratin materials with the kit according to any of claims 1-14, comprising:
    (i) distributing the cosmetic composition along with an extra-introduced solvent such as water in the water insoluble substrate to form a mask;
    (ii) applying the mask on the keratin materials;
    (iii) allowing the mask to remain on the keratin materials for a period of time; and
    (iv) removing the mask from the keratin materials.
PCT/CN2022/084340 2022-03-31 2022-03-31 Kit for caring for keratin materials WO2023184315A1 (en)

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EP22934163.1A EP4507663A1 (en) 2022-03-31 2022-03-31 Kit for caring for keratin materials
CN202280093028.7A CN118785885A (en) 2022-03-31 2022-03-31 Set for caring for keratin materials
PCT/CN2022/084340 WO2023184315A1 (en) 2022-03-31 2022-03-31 Kit for caring for keratin materials
FR2203951A FR3134009B1 (en) 2022-03-31 2022-04-27 Necessary for the care of keratinous materials

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