WO2022208027A1

WO2022208027A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate

Info

Publication number: WO2022208027A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/050603
Authority: WO
Inventors: Philippe GUARILOFF; Florence Quevauviller; Anthony Courtois; Bertrand Thollas
Original assignee: Chanel Parfums Beaute; Polymaris Biotechnology
Priority date: 2021-03-31
Filing date: 2022-03-30
Publication date: 2022-10-06
Also published as: EP4312969A1; FR3121353A1; FR3121353B1

Abstract

The present disclosure falls within the field of cosmetic formulations and more particularly cosmetic compositions comprising biopolymers belonging to the polyhydroxyalkanoate family, and having an increased persistence of at least one cosmetic and/or care effect provided after application of the composition, and also good adhesion of the composition after application to keratin materials. A subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer characterized in that said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of a repetition of polymer units of formula (A1) and of polymer units of formula (B1) such as: Formula (A1): -[-O-CH(R1)-(CH2)n-CO-]- Formula (B1): -[-O-CH(R2)-(CH2)m-CO-]- in which: R1 is an n-propyl group, R2 is an n-pentyl group; n and m are equal to 1, said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer comprising 2 to 10 mol% of polymer units of formula (A1) and 98 to 90 mol% of polymer units of formula (B1). According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of a polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consisting of a repetition of polymer units of formulae (A1) and (B1), as previously defined, as a film-forming agent in cosmetic compositions.

Description

Title: Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate

Technical field [0001] The present disclosure relates to the field of cosmetic formulation and more particularly cosmetic compositions comprising biopolymers belonging to the polyhydroxyalkanoate family, and conferring increased persistence of at least one cosmetic effect, in particular of makeup and/or of care provided after application of the composition, as well as good adhesion of the composition after application to the keratin materials.

[0002] Such biopolymers make it possible to give said cosmetic composition long-lasting properties as well as homogeneity on application, thanks to their film-forming property.

PRIOR ART [0003] Cosmetic makeup or care compositions are commonly used to provide an aesthetic appearance when applied to the skin and the lips, this effect having to last over time. In particular, they must resist the various external factors likely to modify their aesthetic effect, such as sweat, tears, sebum or saliva. In particular, in the case of lipsticks, it is sought to have good color and gloss retention over time, and good transfer resistance. For foundations, eyeshadows and powders, good hold over time of the make-up and its non-transfer are also sought, while preserving the dullness despite the formation of sebum or sweat during the day. Finally, for sun protection products, resistance to sebum and sweat are also essential, as well as the excellent homogeneity and resistance of the deposited film, which significantly influence the level of ultraviolet protection obtained.

[0004] It is known, in order to limit the color transfer of cosmetic compositions and to improve their color retention, to incorporate so-called film-forming polymers into the formulas. The film-forming polymers used in a cosmetic composition must be soluble in the phase of the formula which contains the ingredients which must be fixed to the surface of the skin. They must also have an affinity for the skin and promote the adhesion of the makeup during the application of the cosmetic composition to the skin. They must also be pleasant to apply and their deposit must provide a feeling of comfort to the user, while retaining satisfactory aesthetic properties. Finally, they should be easily removed when cleansing the skin.

[0005] There are many film-forming polymers commercially available, well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in the field of cosmetics. By way of illustrative example, mention may in particular be made of silicone derivatives such as, for example, MQ resins, for example trimethylsiloxysilicates (or T resins), polysilsesquioxanes such as polypropylsilsesquioxane, or even dendrimer polymers such as acrylate/polythmethylsiloxymethacrylate.

[0006] However, these film-forming polymers have a certain number of drawbacks. First, they are mostly synthetic in nature and are not or only slightly biodegradable. It would therefore be desirable to seek technical solutions that are more respectful of the environment. In addition, synthetic polymers are likely to contain impurities, such as unreacted monomeric units, or traces of nanoparticles, making them incompatible with cosmetic use. Finally, they are sometimes difficult to formulate and to stabilize in cosmetic compositions comprising natural ingredients such as plant extracts. However, natural ingredients are increasingly used in cosmetic formulations, and can for example be particularly interesting to provide hydration or anti-aging functions. The present invention therefore aims to propose a solution to its various problems, and to propose the implementation of new biocompatible and biodegradable film-forming polymers, in cosmetic compositions.

Detailed description of the invention

[0008] The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition for the skin and/or lips, providing a makeup or care deposit having improved persistence over time, thus allowing better hold in the skin. time of its color and/or its dullness. More specifically, the present disclosure relates to a cosmetic composition using, as film-forming ingredient, at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer. The present invention thus relates, according to a first aspect, to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer, characterized in that said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of a repetition of polymeric units of formula (A1) and polymeric units of formula (B1) such as: Formula (A1): -[-0-CH(R1)-(CH2) _n -C0-]- Formula (B1): -[-0-CH(R2)- (CH2) _m -C0-]- in which :

R1 represents an n-propyl group R2 represents an n-pentyl group; n and m are equal to 1 said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer comprising 2 to 10% by moles of polymeric units of formula (A1) and 98 to 90% by moles of polymeric units of formula (B1).

[0010] It is indeed to the credit of the applicant to have demonstrated that the choice of specific polymeric units (A1) and (B1), in well-defined proportions, made it possible to obtain particularly satisfactory film-forming properties, and improved compared to other known PHAs.

[0011] Document WO2020/128050 proposes, for example, film-forming PHAs consisting of a mixture of at least three distinct polymeric units. This document illustrates, by way of comparisons, PHAs consisting of a repetition of only two polymeric units, and these do not give satisfaction in terms of cosmetic properties (solubility in oils) and therefore cannot be used as film formers. . The comparative PHAs illustrated in document WO2020/128050 consist of polymeric units (A1) and (B1) in accordance with the present application, but in proportions very far from the proportions envisaged in the present invention. It is therefore indeed the choice of the polymeric units (A1) and (B1) claimed, in specific proportions, which made it possible to obtain satisfactory cosmetic properties allowing their use as a film-forming agent.

The applicant has in particular demonstrated that the polymers which are the subject of the present application, consisting of a repetition of specific polymeric units (A1) and (B1), in well-defined proportions, made it possible to obtain a compound easily soluble in various cosmetic solvents such as isododecane (unlike film-forming PHAs consisting of a mixture of at least three distinct polymeric units as described in document WO2020/128050). The films obtained are stable over time, and in particular are resistant to sebum.

[0013] Preferably, the polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of: - 3 to 5 mol% of polymeric units (A1) and

- 97 and 95% in moles of polymeric units (B1).

According to another embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consisting of:

- 4% by mole of polymeric units (A1), and - 96% by mole of polymeric units (B1). The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consisting of a repetition, successive or not, of polymeric units (A1) and polymeric units (B1) as described above, and having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) between 20,000 to 100,000 g/mol. The polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer is present in the cosmetic composition in a content of between 0.5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, and very preferably 2% to 8% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer as a film-forming agent in a cosmetic composition, said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consisting of a repetition of polymeric units of formula (A1) and polymeric units of formula (B1) such as: Formula (A1): -[-0-CH(R1)-(CH2) _n -C0-]- Formula (B1): -[-0- CH(R2)-(CH2) _m -C0-]- in which:

R1 represents an n-propyl group R2 represents an n-pentyl group; n and m are equal to 1 said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer comprising 2 to 10% by moles of polymeric units of formula (A1) and 98 to 90% by moles of polymeric units of formula (B1); said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer being obtained by a fermentation process from a bacterium registered under the Budapest Treaty at the National Collection of Cultures of Microorganisms on February 24, 2021 under the deposit number I-5658; and being present in a content of between 2 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

By "film-forming polymer" is meant, within the meaning of the present application, a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on the keratin materials, and in particular a cohesive film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that it can be isolated from said support.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a single or multiple emulsion of the water-in-oil or oil-in-water type, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a powder, an anhydrous composition, a suspension, a lotion, a cream, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, a foam, a serum, a solution or an aerosol dispersion, or a dispersion of lipid vesicles, or of droplets obtained by coacervation or by microfluidics.

[0020] Said cosmetic composition may also comprise, in addition to the polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer according to the invention, at least one additive customary in the cosmetics field, such as for example at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant agent, a gelling agent and / or thickener, a surfactant, an oil, a wax, a dye, a pigment, a nacre, a filler such as feel agents, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a volatile and/or non-volatile solvent, a solubilizer, a chelating agent, a sequestrant, an ionic salt capable in particular of adjusting the pH of the composition or its ionic strength, a sunscreen which may be organic and/or inorganic and a perfume. Depending on the desired galenic, the care and/or makeup benefit sought and expected, the cosmetic composition may also comprise another film-forming polymer in addition to the at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer according to the invention, said other film-forming agent preferably being environmentally friendly. , especially biodegradable.

In particular, said composition may contain one or more emollient(s) or humectant(s), which may be chosen, for example, from glycerin, polyols, glycols, water-soluble silicones such as that sold under the name KF6011 (Shin Etsu) and water-soluble jojoba, such as that sold under the name Resplanta jojoba (Res pharma).

Said emollient or humectant may be present in the composition at a content of the order of 0 to 30%, preferably 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

One or more gelling agent(s) and/or thickener(s) for the aqueous phase can also be incorporated into the composition according to the invention. They are chosen for example from cellulosic derivatives, polysaccharides including in particular gums of plant origin (guar, carob, alginates, carrageenans, pectin), of microbial origin (xanthan), clays (laponite), hydrophilic gelling agents, and lipophilic gelling agents. The hydrophilic gelling agents can in particular be chosen from:

- homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide and their sodium salt, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers , AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid) and its acrylamide or polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or not), and mixtures thereof. - associative polyurethanes or solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, in particular in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” denotes, in the context of the present application, a substance capable of solidifying or gelatinizing the oil present in the composition of the invention. The lipophilic gelling agent is chosen for example from sucrose polyesters. Mention may be made of the esters of sucrose and of fatty acids, and preferably the esters of sucrose, of stearic acid and of acetic acid, such as sucrose tetrastearate triacetate.

If they are present in the composition, the gelling agents can be introduced in a content ranging from 0.05 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 20% and better from 0.5 to 15% by weight.

One or more surfactant(s), preferably nonionic, may form part of the composition according to the invention and will be present in a content of the order of 0 to 8%, preferably 0, 5 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the present application may also contain at least one or more oils or organic solvent.

By oil or organic solvent is meant a non-aqueous body which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

[0030] The term “volatile organic oil or solvent” is understood to mean, in the sense of the invention, any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa ( 0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

[0031] The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). The oil may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.05 to 30%, preferably 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may comprise volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof. The volatile oils (or organic solvents) can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, linear(s), cyclic(s) or branched(s), or mixtures thereof.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈ -Ci ₆ alkanes of natural or petroleum origin, such as C ₈ -Ci ₆ isoalkanes such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, branched C ₈ -Ci ₆ esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 6 centistokes (6.10 -6 m 2 /s), and having in particular from 3 to 6 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising one or more alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 or 2 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Each of the compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one non-volatile organic oil or solvent, which may in particular be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may in particular be made of: - hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 at C24, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, camellia; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides;

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane, and mixtures thereof;

- natural esters such as triglycerides, or pelargonic acid derivatives; - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

The nonvolatile silicone oils which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The content of non-volatile oil or organic solvent in the composition in accordance with the invention ranges from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 20% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax. The term “wax” designates a fatty substance with reversible liquid/solid change, having a melting point above 55° C. and generally below 110° C., which is liquid under the conditions of preparation of the composition and which has an organization anisotropic crystalline in the solid state. Wax can be polar or apolar By polar wax is meant a wax comprising at least one heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

[0042] In particular, the polar wax can be chosen from the group comprising beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, cottonseed wax, rice bran wax, bay wax, Chinese insect wax, montan wax, lanolin and its alcoholic, acetylated, esterified, polyethoxylated derivatives, kapok wax, sugar cane wax, hexyl laurate, jojoba wax, wax shellac, polyethoxylated cholesterol ether, synthetic beeswax, or a mixture thereof. Mention may also be made of plant ester waxes such as, for example, by way of illustration, jojoba esters, alkyl esters or hydrogenated alkyl esters.

By apolar wax is meant a hydrocarbon wax and/or a silicone wax.

[0044] The term "non-polar hydrocarbon wax" means a wax comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms and not comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. “Apolar silicone wax” means a wax comprising a silicon heteroatom.

The wax, if it is present in the cosmetic composition of the invention, represents a content of between 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally at least one water-soluble solvent. The term “water-soluble solvent” denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure). Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, by way of indication and not of limitation, of mono-alcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, ketones C ₃ -C and C2-C4 aldehydes.

One or more active agent(s), of natural or synthetic origin, having a biological activity, for example chosen from vitamins, trace elements, allantoin, vegetable proteins, vegetable extracts , moisturizers, anti-aging agents, antioxidants, radiance-promoting agents and mixtures thereof. In particular, the active agent is chosen from vanilla planifolia fruit water, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, a yeast extract and mixtures thereof.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff such as pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes. The pulverulent dyestuffs can be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments can be white or colored, inorganic and/or organic, coated or not. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, bismuth oxychloride, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D&C Red 17,

D&C Green 6, 13-Carotene, Soybean Oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, Annatto.

These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler.

The fillers can be chosen from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as Nylon © marketed under the name Orgasol © by the company Atochem, poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon © , lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as those marketed under the name Expancel © by the company Nobel Industrie, acrylic powders such as those marketed under the name Polytrap © by Dow Corning, polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microbeads (Tospearls © from Toshiba, for example), precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads © from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, soaps metallic derivatives of organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

It is also possible to use a compound capable of swelling with heat and in particular heat-expandable particles such as unexpanded microspheres of vinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile/methyl methacrylate copolymer or of acrylonitrile homopolymer copolymer such as for example those marketed respectively under the references Expancel® 820 DU 40 and Expancel® 007WU by the company AKZO NOBEL. Mention may also be made of Advancell® marketed by Sekuisi Plastic or Thermoexpandable microspheres® from Matsumoto.

The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 25%, in particular from 0.2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one fiber. By "fiber", it is necessary to understand an object of length L and of diameter D such that L is much greater than D, D being the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber falls. In particular, the L/D ratio (or aspect ratio) is chosen in the range going from 3.5 to 2500, in particular from 5 to 500, and more particularly from 5 to 150.

The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention can be fibers of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. They can be short or long, unitary or organized, for example braided, hollow or solid. Their section can be arbitrary and in particular of circular or polygonal section (square, hexagonal or octagonal) depending on the specific application envisaged. Their shape can be linear, curved, sinusoidal or curly. In particular, their ends are blunted and or polished to avoid injury.

As fibers that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (Nylon®) or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers such as those sold under the names KERMEL®, KERMEL TECH® by the company RHODIA or poly-(p-phenyleneterephthalamide) (or aramid) in particular sold under the name Kevlar® by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS.

The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.3% to 3% by weight [0063] Other additives usually used in cosmetics may also be present in the composition according to the invention, in particular preservatives, antioxidants, organic and/or inorganic UV filters, or perfumes which are well known in the technical field. [0064] The person skilled in the art is able to choose, among all of these possible additives, both the nature and the quantity of those which will be added to the composition, so that the latter retains all of its properties. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

The cosmetic composition may be intended for a cosmetic product chosen in particular from lipsticks, glosses, fluid and compact foundations, nail varnishes, eye shadows, mascaras, pencils eyelashes or eyebrows, care creams, serums, products for sun protection, toiletries such as shower gels, etc.

The biopolymer can be obtained in a known manner by biosynthesis with the microorganism registered with the National Collection of Microorganism Culture under the Budapest Treaty under the number CNCM I-5658, deposit made in the name of the company Polymaris Biotechnology, located at Brest - France. The present invention therefore does not expressly cover these strains but only the use of the polyhydroxyalkanoates secreted by them for the production of cosmetic compositions.

The polyhydroxyalkanoate used in the context of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be obtained by fermentation of the bacterium registered under the Budapest Treaty at the National Collection of Microorganism Cultures on February 24, 2021 under the deposit number I-5658 in a suitable culture medium, conventionally agitated and aerated. The fermentation to produce the polyhydroxyalkanoate is carried out under conditions of agitation and aeration of the medium at a temperature of between 20° C. and 37° C., preferably at 30° C., the medium having a pH of between 6.5 and 9 preferably close to 7.5, and being adjusted if necessary during fermentation. The duration of the fermentation is between 24 and 120 hours, preferably between 36 and 72 hours. According to one embodiment of the invention, mineral salts are added during the fermentation of the bacteria. By way of non-limiting illustration, mention may be made, among the mineral salts, of those capable of supplying the culture medium with Na ⁺ , K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , P0 ₄ ³ , S0 ² , Cl , C0 ₃ or essential elements such as Cu, Mn, Fe and Zn. The polyhydroxyalkanoate isolation and purification methods are obtained by conventional means well known to those skilled in the art, such as centrifugation, filtration, ultrafiltration, extraction, evaporation and dialysis.

In a preferred mode of the invention, the polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer produced by the bacterium registered under the number CNCM I-5658 is characterized by the presence of two polymeric units consisting of 4% by mole of polymeric units (A1) , in which n is equal to 1 and R1 represents an n-propyl group, and in 96% by mole of polymeric unit (B1) in which m is equal to 1 and R2 represents an n-pentyl group.

The invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples.

Examples

Example 1: preparation and isolation of the polyhydroxyalkanoate produced by the bacterium registered under the deposit number CNCM I-5658

[0072] a) Method for culturing the bacteria registered under the deposit number CNCM I-5658

For the production of the biopolymer, all the operations are carried out according to good microbiology practices under sterile conditions. The various media are also sterilized either by heat treatment (121° C. for 20 minutes) or by 0.2 μm filtration.

A 2 mL cryotube of the CNCM i-5658 strain is inoculated into an Erlenmeyer flask containing 50 mL of medium allowing the culture of marine microorganisms (marine medium broth E2216, Difco, France). The culture is incubated at 30° C. with shaking for 12 to 18 hours.

The culture obtained is then inoculated into an Erlenmeyer flask containing 1.45 L of mineral medium suitable for its growth (medium M1 - Table 1) at 30° C. with stirring for 8 hours.

Finally, the culture is inoculated in a fermenter containing 13.5 L of mineral culture medium suitable for its growth and the biosynthesis of the biopolymer (medium M2 - Table 2). The culture is maintained at 30°C with stirring for at least 30 hours.

During the first 28 hours of culture, 15 mL of an octanoic acid solution buffered at pH 6 with 10N NaOH is added every two hours.

The pH is regulated at 7.2 by 10 N NaOH or 2N H2SO4.

The oxygenation and the agitation of the culture are also regulated to allow the growth of the cells and the accumulation of the biopolymer. At the end of the fermentation, the cellular biomass containing the biopolymers is concentrated by centrifugation.

This biomass is then dried in order to eliminate all the water and until a constant mass is obtained. [0082] [Table 1] - Composition of medium M1

[0083] [Table 2] - Composition of medium M2

b) Purification of the polyhydroxyalkanoate biopolymer The extraction of the polyhydroxyalkanoate biopolymer is carried out by adding dichloromethane at a rate of 10% of dry biomass per volume of solvent at room temperature and with stirring for 18 hours.

The biomass is eliminated by centrifugation (8000 rpm X 20 min) and the supernatant containing the biopolymer is recovered.

The latter can be filtered in order to improve the quality of the final biopolymer.

It is concentrated by elimination of the dichloromethane using a rotary evaporator.

The biopolymer concentrated in solution in dichloromethane is finally precipitated by adding a cold ethanol solution (10:1) then dried in a ventilated oven at 40 Ό until complete evaporation of the solvent.

Example 2: physico-chemical characterization of the polyhydroxyalkanoate biopolymer obtained in example 1

The molecular weight is determined by steric exclusion chromatography with a refractometer (RI) for detection.

The molecular weight is determined by comparing the retention time of the polymer with the retention time of polystyrene standards via a calibration line.

The analysis makes it possible to determine the average molecular weight (Mw in Dalton), the average molecular weight by number (Mn in Dalton) in PS (polystyrene) equivalent, as well as the polydispersity index.

The composition of the biopolymer is determined by gas phase chromatography fitted with a flame ionization detector (FID) and confirmed by 1 H, 13 C, HMBC and HMQC NMR analysis.

A copolymer was thus obtained consisting of 96% by weight of poly(hydroxy-3-octanoate) and 4% by weight of poly(hydroxy-3-hexanoate)

Example 3: Evaluation of the film-forming properties of the copolymer of Example 2

In a first step, a solution of the polymer whose film-forming properties are to be evaluated is prepared in a volatile solvent capable of dissolving it. The polymer represents 30 to 50% by mass of the solution. In a second step, a solution obtained in step 1 is deposited in the bottom of a Petri dish. The choice of the Petri dish makes it possible to come as close as possible to the actual conditions of use of a cosmetic composition, the constituent material of the Petri dish having a surface energy similar to that of human skin. Thus, untreated skin has approximately a surface energy of 38 mN/m and skin washed with soap has a surface energy of the order of 25 to 29 mN/m (H. Schott, Contact angles and wettability of human skin, J. Pharm Soi. 60 (1971) 1893-1895), a plastic Petri dish made of conventional polystryrene material is present it has a surface energy of the order of 39 mN/m. In a third step, the Petri dish is placed in a ventilated oven at 45°C in order to evaporate the volatile solvent, and obtain a dry film deposit of approximately 1 g, then the quality of the polymer film deposited is characterized. at the bottom of the Petri dish according to 3 assessment criteria:

- the transparency of the film: a score of 1 is assigned to a film qualified as transparent (no deformation of the image and its contrast by observing it through the film), 0 for an opaque film; - the regularity of the film: a score of 0, 1, or 2 is assigned, the score of 2 characterizing a regular deposit in thickness and covering the entire surface, and the score of 0 characterizing a film that is heavily cracked or has aggregates;

- adhesion of the film: a score from 4 to 0 is assigned on the basis of the following characteristics; 4 - very adhesive, does not peel off within 48 hours; 3 - adhesive, partially peels off under stress; 2 - adhesive initially, partially peels off in the

48 hours; 1 - weak adhesive, peels off completely within 48 hours; 0 - no initial membership.

The higher the grade of the polymer tested, the better these film-forming qualities:

The polymer obtained in example 2 is thus evaluated and its film-forming properties are compared with those obtained according to the same protocol for Belsil TMS 803 (INCI name: Trimethyl silicate) marketed by the company AES, a film former of state of the art commonly used in the cosmetic field. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0098] [Table 3] - Evaluation of the film-forming properties:

Ό099] It is noted that the copolymer of example 2 obtained by a biosynthetic process, clean and respectful of the environment, has evaluation criteria similar to the polymer of the prior art. It is therefore an excellent candidate for replacing the synthetic film-forming polymers of the prior art, and thus making it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions having the same level of quality and performance, while being more respectful of the environment with in particular excellent biodegradability.

The properties of the polymer of Example 2 were then compared to a copolymer according to document WO2020/128050 consisting of 60% by weight of poly(hydroxy-3- decanoate), 37% by weight of poly(hydroxy-3-octanoate) and 3% by weight of poly(hydroxy-3-hexanoate).

The comparative polymer according to document WO2020/128050 is not soluble in isododecane, unlike the copolymer according to the invention. In addition, the sebum resistance of the two polymers was compared according to the following protocol:

The two polymers were dissolved in cyclohexane at a concentration of 33%. To allow good solubility, the solutions were heated at 45°C in an oven for 2 hours. After 2 hours, the solutions are clear and allowed to cool to room temperature. [0103] 3.3 ml of solution of each copolymer at 33% were poured onto the boxes of

Petri. The boxes are slightly shaken to allow a good distribution of the film on the box and left for 30 minutes at room temperature to allow this good distribution. The boxes are placed in an oven at 45°C for 2 hours to allow the evaporation of the latter. In order to have a good homogeneity of the sebum on the film of PHA, 4 mL of biophytosebum are distributed on the latter at ambient temperature.

[0105] After 2 hours, the comparative film according to document W02020/128050 begins to “crease” while that of example 2 remains intact.

[0106] After 24 hours of contact, the comparative film according to document W02020/128050 is completely destructured, whereas the film obtained from the polymer according to Example 2 remains intact and smooth.

Example 4: Cosmetic foundation base composition

[0107] A foundation base was prepared in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion having the composition presented in the following table 4: [0108] [Table 4]

1 - weigh the aqueous phase comprising the water, glycerin, sorbitol, pentylene glycol and preservative and put it under Rayneri stirring,

2- add the copolymer of Example 2 with stirring for 10 min at 250 rpm until the gel forms,

3- mix CITHROL, KSG-210 and CETIOL ULTIMATE with stirring in a rotor stator at 245 rpm for 5 min,

4- add the pigments with stirring in a rotor stator at 350 rpm in the fatty phase - introduce the aqueous phase (1+2) into this mixture (3+4) in a rotor stator at 245 rpm for 5 min to form the emulsion .

The foundation base obtained is fluid and homogeneous, it is easy to apply without fluffing. The film formed on the skin is uniform.

Example 5: Cosmetic composition of fluid foundation:

The fluid foundation was prepared according to the following protocol: grind the pigments (iron oxides and titanium dioxide) in the fatty phase comprising methyl trimethicone, dimethicone, and isononyl isononanoate. The mixture obtained was heated to 40° O and the PEG-10 dimethicone, the copolymer of Example 2 and the talc were added. When this phase is homogeneous, the aqueous phase comprising phenoxyethanol, butylene glycol and demineralised water is added for 2 min with vigorous stirring (Raynerie with a flocculator at 3000 revolutions/min), then the mixture is maintained under moderate stirring. for 5 mins.

The foundation is fluid, the emulsion has good stability, it spreads easily and evenly, without leaving a sticky impression. Reference to deposited biological material

In the present application, reference is made to the following biological material(s) and to the derived variant or mutant strains:

- identification reference "939" and registration number "I-5658" deposited at the National Collection of Microorganism Cultures (CNCM), in France, on February 24, 2021, by Polymaris Biotechnology whose address is 160 rue Pierre Rivoalon, 29200 Brest,

France.

Claims

[Claim 1] Cosmetic composition comprising at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of a repetition of polymeric units of formula (A1) and polymeric units of formula (B1) such as:

Formula (A1): -[-0-CH(R1)-(CH2) _n -C0-]- Formula (B1): -[-0-CH(R2)-(CH2) _m -C0-]- in which :

[Claim 2] Cosmetic composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of:

- 3 to 5% in moles of polymeric units (A1) and

- 97 and 95% in moles of polymeric units (B1)

[Claim 3] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consists of: - 4% by mole of polymeric units (A1), and

- 96% by mole of polymeric units (B1).

[Claim 4] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer has an average molecular weight (Mw) of between 20,000 and 100,000 g/mol. [Claim 5] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer is present in a content of between 0,

5% to 30% by weight, preferably 1% to 20% by weight, and very preferably 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Claim 6] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer is obtained according to a fermentation process in the presence of a bacterium registered under the Budapest Treaty at the National Collection of Microorganism Cultures on February 24, 2021 under filing number I-5658.

[Claim 7] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion, a powder, an anhydrous , suspension, lotion, cream, aqueous or hydroalcoholic gel, foam, serum, aerosol solution or dispersion, or dispersion of lipid vesicles, or of droplets obtained by coacervation or by microfluidics.

[Claim 8] Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one compound chosen from an emollient or humectant, a gelling and/or thickening agent, a surfactant, an oil, a wax , a dye, a pigment, a nacre, a filler, a preservative, an antioxidant agent, an active agent, an organic or inorganic powder, a volatile and/or non-volatile solvent, a solubilizer, a chelating agent, a sequestrant, a salt ionic, a sunscreen and a perfume.

[Claim 9] Use of at least one polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer as a film-forming agent in a cosmetic composition, said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer consisting of a repetition of polymeric units of formula (A1) and polymeric units of formula (B1 ) as :

Formula (A1): -[-0-CH(R1)-(CH2) _n -C0-]- Formula (B1): -[-0-CH(R2)-(CH2) _m -C0-]- in which : R1 represents an n-propyl group R2 represents an n-pentyl group; n and m are equal to 1 said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer comprising 2 to 10% by moles of polymeric units of formula (A1) and 98 to 90% by moles of polymeric units of formula (B1); said polyhydroxyalkanoate copolymer being obtained by a fermentation process from a bacterium registered under the Budapest Treaty at the National Collection of Cultures of Microorganisms on February 24, 2021 under the deposit number I-5658; and being present in a content of between 2 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.