WO2021018565A1

WO2021018565A1 - Skin care oil in water emulsion

Info

Publication number: WO2021018565A1
Application number: PCT/EP2020/069870
Authority: WO
Inventors: Amar WANKHADE; Gupta Saurabh
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2019-08-01
Filing date: 2020-07-14
Publication date: 2021-02-04
Also published as: BR112022001765A2

Abstract

A skin care oil in water emulsion for moisturization comprising 12% to 25% by weight of emulsifiers, 9% to 20% of oil and wax, 8% to 15% by weight of a polyol compound comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms, water and auxiliary agents. The skin care oil in water emulsion is less greasy, attracts less dirt and has good spreadability, consistency and is optically translucent.

Description

SKIN CARE OIL IN WATER EMULSION

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

[0001] The present invention relates to skin care oil in water emulsion comprising preferably Isoceteth-20 as emulsifier, oil, wax, polyols compounds and optionally auxiliary agents.

BACKGROUND AND PRIOR ART OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Petroleum jelly is one of the oldest skin treatment products still in commerce today. Often it is known under the trademark name Vaseline®. Generally, petroleum jelly is inexpensive, abundant, and can be smoothly applied to the skin.

[0003] Conventional petroleum jellies in the market are anhydrous wax and oil based formulations. Due to their ingredients conventional petroleum jellies suffer a number of drawbacks. For example, these petroleum jellies are sticky and do in fact have no moisturizing properties themselves. This is because the petroleum jelly forms upon application to the skin an occlusive layer, which prevents the oozing out of moisture from the skin. Accordingly, pure petroleum jellies do not offer any moisturizing benefits as such.

[0004] A further drawback of conventional petroleum jellies is that after application to the skin the formulations may rub off on clothes causing grease stains. Furthermore, due to the sticky nature of petroleum jellies dirt or dust particles are attracted to the skin after application of the jelly. As the petroleum jelly does not absorb, or absorbs very slowly consumers may feel covered in dirt only a few hours after application . [0005] In the past efforts has been made to address the drawbacks related to use of petroleum jelly based compositions. US 4832858A discloses a water dispersible oil-in-water emulsion of petroleum jelly consisting of an aqueous phase, petroleum jelly and emulsifier, wherein the emulsion is prepared by using ultrasonic emulsification.

[0006] US 5976560A disclose a vegetable oil based composition as a replacement for petroleum jelly. The vegetable oil includes hydrogenated vegetable oils.

[0007] US 2828248A disclose a petroleum jelly prepared from asphaltic crude oils comprising a mixture of equal proportions residual oil and slack wax.

[0008] Hence, there is a great variety in compositions intended for skin care, in particular for moisturization of skin. But there is still a need to develop skin care oil in water emulsion which moisturizes the skin and is less greasy, attracts less dirt and is convenient to use.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0009] The present invention aims to provide skin care oil in water emulsion with benefits of less greasiness, lesser tendency to attract dirt, and moisturization effect on skin. The skin care oil in water emulsion has good spreadability, consistency and is optically translucent.

[00010] In accordance with the invention, there is provided skin care oil in water emulsion for moisturization comprising 12% to 25% by weight of emulsifiers; 9% to 20% by weight of oil and wax; 8% to 15% by weight of a polyol compound comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms; optionally auxiliary agents and at least 50% by weight of water. [ 00011 ] In an embodiment the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises an emulsifier with an HLB value in a range from 12 to 18 present in a range from 8% to 22% by weight. The emulsifier with HLB in a range from 12 to 18 is preferably Isoceteth-20 present in a range from 12% to 16% (w/w) .

[ 00012 ] Further, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises another emulsifier with an HLB value in range from 3 to 6.5 present in a range from 2% to 7% by weight. The emulsifier with HLB value in range from 3 to 6.5 is Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE and mixture thereof. In the mixture form Glyceryl stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE is present in a ratio from 1:1.2 to 1:2.2.

[ 00013 ] Further, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises the oil and wax. The oil is paraffinum liquidum present in a range from 5% to 10% by wt . The wax is cera microcristallina present in a range from 0.2% to 3% by wt . The composition further comprises silicone oil dimethicones in a range from 0.5% to 1.5% by wt .

[ 00014 ] Further, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises C12-C15 alkyl benzoate as oil in a range from 2.5% to 4.5% by wt .

[ 00015 ] Further, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises the polyols compound glycerol, propylene glycol and mixture thereof. The glycerol is in a range from 8% to 13% by wt . The polyol propylene glycol is present in a range from 1.5% to 3% by wt . In the mixture the glycerol and the propylene glycol is present in a range from 4.3:1 to 5.7:1.

[ 00016 ] Furthermore, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises carbomer in a range from 0.1% to 0.5% by wt and phenoxyethanol in a range from 0.2% to 1.2% by wt . [00017] Moreover, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises auxiliary agents selected from the group comprising of sodium hyaluronate, aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, ubiquinone, ascorbylphosphate, creatin, kreatinin, theobroma cocoa seed butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and/or antioxidant in a range from 0.05 to 0.5% by wt .

[00018] The skin care oil in water emulsion has a pH in the range from 6.5 to 7.5.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[00019] Discussed below are some representative embodiments of the present invention. The invention in its broader aspects is not limited to the specific details and representative methods. The illustrative examples are described in this section in connection with the embodiments and methods provided. The invention according to its various aspects is particularly pointed out and distinctly claimed in the attached claims read in view of this specification, and appropriate equivalents.

[00020] It is to be noted, as used in the specification and the appended claims, the singular forms "a", "an", and "the" include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. Thus, for example, reference to a composition containing "a compound" includes a mixture of two or more compounds. It should also be noted that the term "or" is generally employed in its sense including "and/or" unless the content clearly dictates otherwise. The expression of various quantities in terms of "%w/w" means the percentage by weight, relative to the weight of the total composition unless otherwise specified .

[00021] The expression of quantity in terms of "% w/w" or "%" means the percentage by weight, relative to the weight of the total solution or composition, unless otherwise specified. The ratios of certain components disclosed in the description, refer, unless otherwise stated, to weight ratios of the components .

[00022] The present invention provides skin care oil in water emulsion comprising a mixture of emulsifier, oil and/or wax compound, polyols compound, optionally auxiliary agents and water .

[00023] Unless otherwise stated, all tests and measurements were performed under "normal conditions". The term "normal conditions" refer to temperature 20 °C, pressure 1013 hPa and a relative humidity of 50%.

[00024] As used herein, the term "skin" refers solely to human skin .

[00025] As used herein, the term "skin care oil in water emulsion" refers to any composition which comprises one or more agents which, when transferred from an article to a wearer's skin, provide a protective skin benefit. Representative materials are discussed in detail below.

[00026] As used herein, the term "wax" in cosmetics is a mix of esters, alcohols and fatty acids. The wax is commonly used in skin care oil in water emulsion as they are harder, less greasy than oils and fats, resilient against oxidation, moisture, and microbial breakdown.

[00027] As used herein, the term "HLB" refers to hydrophilic- lipophilic balance. Hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a surfactant or emulsifier is a measure of the degree to which it is hydrophilic or lipophilic, determined by calculating values for the different regions of the molecule. HLB numbers are calculated for nonionic surfactants, and these surfactants have numbers ranging from 0-20. HLB numbers >10 have an affinity for water (hydrophilic) and number <10 have an affinity of oil (lipophilic) . High HLB i.e. water soluble, hydrophilic surfactants are used to stabilize o/w systems.

[00028] According to the present invention, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises emulsifier in a range from 12% to

25% by weight of at least one emulsifier, to the total weight of the emulsion. Preferably, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises 14% to 23% by weight, more preferably 17% to 22% by weight of at least one emulsifier, calculated to the total weight of the skin care oil in water emulsion. Emulsifiers in the present invention include all substances which are listed under the definition "emulsifying agent" in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Thirteenth Edition 2010, (ISBN 1-882621-47-6) .

[00029] It is preferred if the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises at least one emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, more preferably from 14 to 16. For an emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 12 to 18, it is preferred that it is present in a range from 8% to 22% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and most preferably from 12% to 16% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. For an emulsifier having an HLB value in the range from 14 to 16, it is preferred, that it is present in a range from 8% to 22% by weight, more preferably from 10% to

20% by weight and most preferably from 12% to 16% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[00030] According to the present invention, the emulsifier used in the skin care oil in water emulsion is preferably I soceteth-20. The Isoceteth-20 has an HLB value of 15.7. The Isoceteth-20 is used in the range from 8% to 22% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight and most preferably from 12% to 16% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. It was surprisingly found that Isoceteth-20 in a quantity from 12% to 16% by weight forms a translucent gel wherein the particle size of the oil phase is in the range from 2.7 to 3.5 pm. Furthermore, at these quantities the emulsion has a dull, thread-pulling appearance when being taken out of the packaging with a finger.

[ 00031 ] In an embodiment of the invention, it is preferred that the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises at least one emulsifier having a HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.5. The emulsifiers particularly preferred are glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE .

[ 00032 ] In accordance with an embodiment of the invention, the emulsifier having a HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.5 i.e. glyceryl stearate and/or glyceryl stearate SE is present in a total quantity from 2% to 7% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. The skin care oil in water emulsion preferably comprises both glyceryl stearate and glyceryl stearate SE, the ratio by weight between glyceryl stearate and glyceryl stearate SE is preferably in the range from 1:1.2 to 1:2.2.

[ 00033 ] In accordance with an another embodiment of the invention, the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises 9% to 20%, preferably 10% to 15% by weight and most preferably 11 to 14% by weight of at least one oil and/or wax compound, calculated to the total weight of the composition. [00034] The oil and/or wax compounds contained in the emulsion can preferably be selected from natural as well as synthetic oils and waxes. It is preferred according to the invention if the emulsion contains paraffinum liquidum, which is hydrocarbon oil. In the case paraffinum liquidum is contained, it is preferred if the total quantity of paraffinum liquidum is in the range from 5% to 10% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[00035] Further, it is preferred that the emulsion comprises C12-15 alkyl benzoate as further oil compound. C12-15 alkyl benzoate is present in the range from 2% to 6% by weight, more preferably from 2.5% to 4.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[00036] The skin care oil in water emulsion preferably comprises small amounts of dimethicone. Dimethicone is silicone oil that is also known as polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) . Dimethicone is present in a range from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight calculated to the total weight of the emulsion.

[00037] The wax that is preferably used in the invention is cera microcristallina present in a range from 0.2% to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 1.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Cera Microcristallina is a microcrystalline hydrocarbon highly refined wax derived from petroleum and purified for use in cosmetics.

[00038] According to the present invention, the skin care oil in water emulsion further comprises at least one polyol compound comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms in a range from 8 to 15% by weight to the total weight of the composition. Polyols are compounds which contain two or more hydroxyl groups per molecule. The skin care oil in water emulsion preferably comprises glycerol and/or propylene glycol; preferably both glycerol and propylene glycol are present in the skin care oil in water emulsion. Glycerol is present in the range from 8% to 13% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the emulsion. Propylene glycol is contained in the range from 1.5% to 3% by weight. When both glycerol and propylene glycol are contained in the skin care oil in water emulsion, the ratio by weight between glycerol and propylene glycol is preferably in the range from 4.3:1 to 5.7:1.

[00039] Furthermore, it is advantageous if the skin care oil in water emulsion further comprises at least one carbomer. The total quantity of the carbomer is preferably in the range from 0.1% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 0.4% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[00040] According to another aspect of the invention, it is further preferred that the skin care oil in water emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol . The total quantity of phenoxyethanol when present is preferably in the range from 0.2 to 1.2 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[00041] The skin care oil in water emulsion preferably comprises at least 50% water. Preferably, water is in the range from 50% to 65% by weight, more preferably 52% to 55% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[00042] According to the invention the skin care oil in water emulsion may contain auxiliary agents usually one or more of sodium hyaluronate, aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, ubiquinone, ascorbylphosphate, creatin, kreatinin, theobroma cocoa seed butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and/or antioxidant, and others more with the proviso that these auxiliary agents do not counteract the present invention. The auxiliary agents are present in the range from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, calculated to the total weight of the composition.

[00043] According to an aspect of the invention, the skin care oil in water emulsion has pH in the range from 6.5 to 7.5. The pH of the composition is similar to that of human skin, in order to avoid any irritation or skin reaction on using the skin care oil in water emulsion of the present invention. Usually sodium hydroxide and/or citric acid are added to the composition to adjust the pH of the composition in range of 6.5 to 7.5.

[00044] The skin care oil in water emulsion of the present invention can be applied to different skin areas, on which the composition provides the benefit of moisturizing the skin, formation of a film or facial mask to prevent loss of water thereform, is fast absorbing, less sticky and reduces attraction of dirt to the skin. The skin care oil in water emulsion of the present invention has a good spreadbility, consistency and is optically translucent.

[00045] The following examples are provided for illustrative purposes, and they are not intended to limit the scope of the invention as claimed herein. Any variations in the exemplified compositions and methods which occur to the skilled artisan are intended to fall within the scope of the present invention.

Example 1 Formulation of skin care oil in water emulsion

[00046] The compositions for skin care oil in water emulsion according the present invention is prepared as in Table 1

Table 1 Compositions of the skin care oil in water emulsion

[00047] The formulations of Table 1 are prepared by melting the stated ingredients, mixing them at elevated temperature with the aqueous cream base and then homogenizing the formulations. The formulations of Table 1 are compared to a conventional petroleum jelly having composition according to Table 2.

Table 2 Composition of conventional Petroleum Jelly

[00048] The experimental tests carried out on compositions according to the present invention have the purpose of evaluating the performance of skin care oil in water emulsions with respect to the conventional petroleum jelly.

[00049] An expert panel was formed to evaluate the performance of the Formula 1 to 4 of Table 1 and conventional petroleum jelly for their spreadability, consistency and the optical translucent appearance. The expert panel confirmed that the formulations of the invention were similar in aforesaid properties to the comparative example of conventional petroleum jelly.

Example 2 Viscosity

[00050] The viscosity of skin care oil in water emulsion of Formula 1 was compared to a conventional petroleum jelly product (Nivea Petroleum Jelly Pure) . The viscosity was measured using a Brookfield Viscometer at Rpm - 0.5, Spindle RV T-F at 25°C. Formula 1 had a viscosity of 7360000 cps which is comparable to that of the conventional petroleum jelly having a viscosity of 7320000 cps.

Example 3 Refractive Index

[00051] The refractive index of skin care oil in water emulsion of Formula 1 was compared to conventional petroleum jellies (Valon Petroleum Jelly and Dettol Petroleum Jelly) . The result for the refractive indices is summarized below:

Table 3 Refractive indices

As can be seen from refractive indices values in Table 3, the skin care oil in water emulsion of the present invention is of refractive index near to the conventional petroleum jelly.

Example 4

[00052] Formula 1 of the present invention was compared with comparative petroleum jelly of Table 2 for greasiness. Both the formulations were applied to two separate circular sections marked on a tissue paper. The circular sections had a diameter of 3.2 cm. In total 0.5 g were applied to each circular section. 3 hours after the application the sections were analyzed. A greasy film was found surrounding the circular section for the section with the comparative example. The total diameter of the greasy ring formed was about 6.5 cm. In contrast to that, it was observed that there was no greasy film outside the marked area for the Formula 1 as shown in Figure 1. Accordingly, the Formula 1 of the present invention is less greasy and the greasy film is not picked up by the clothing.

Example 5

[00053] In another experiment two circular sections were marked on the forearm of a volunteer. The circles had a diameter of 2.5 cm. 0.5 g of Formula 1 was applied to the first circular section, while 0.5 g of a commercial petroleum jelly (Vaseline Petroleum Jelly) was applied to the second circular section. 1 minute after application talcum powder was sprinkled onto each circular section. Afterwards the arms were turned such that the sections marked were facing downwards so that most of the talcum falls off. It was noted that the amount of talcum which remained sticking on the marked section was significant larger for the section in which the comparative example was applied. Accordingly, the Formulas of the invention are less sticky and less dust or dirt is attracted to the skin compared to the conventional petroleum jelly.

Example 6

[00054] Moisturizing effect of the compositions of the invention is analyzed using water swellable beads. The water swellable beads are suspended in the Formula 1 of the invention and in the comparative example of conventional petroleum jelly of Table 2. The beads are suspended for 3 hours in Formula 1 and comparative example. After 3 hours the beads are removed. It was observed that the beads suspended in the Formula 1 expanded significantly their size indicating that water was absorbed from the Formula 1. In contrast to that the beads suspended in the comparative example did not expand at all. This indicates that the Formula of the invention is capable of delivering water to the skin, and has a moisturizing effect on skin.

[00055] While particular embodiments of the present invention are illustrated and described, it would be obvious to those skilled in the art that various other changes and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. It is thereof intended to cover in the appended claims such changes and modifications that are within the scope of the invention.

Claims

We claim :

1. A skin care oil in water emulsion for oisturization comprising

12% to 25% by weight of emulsifiers;

9% to 20% of oil and wax;

8% to 15% by weight of a polyol compound comprising 2 to

4 carbon atoms;

at least 50% of water; and

optionally auxiliary agents.

2. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsifier has an HLB value in a range from 12 to 18.

3. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 2, wherein the emulsifier with HLB in the range from 12 to 18 is present in a range from 8% to 22% by weight.

4. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 2, wherein the emulsifier with HLB in the range from 12 to 18 is Isoceteth-20.

5. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 4, wherein the Isoceteth-20 is in a range from 12% to 16% (w/w) .

6. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsifier has a HLB value in a range from 3 to

6.5.

7. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 6, wherein the emulsifier with a HLB value in a range from 3 to 6.5 is present in a range from 2% to 7% by weight.

8. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 6, wherein the emulsifier with HLB value in the range from 3 to 6.5 is Glyceryl stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE and mixture thereof .

9. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 6, wherein in the mixture Glyceryl stearate and Glyceryl Stearate SE is in a range from 1:1.2 to 1:2.2.

10. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the oil is paraffinum liquidum in a range from 5% to 10% by wt .

11. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the wax is cera microcristallina in a range from 0.2% to 3 % by wt .

12. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsion comprises a C12-C15 alkyl benzoate as oil in a range from 2% to 6% by wt .

13. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 12, wherein the emulsion comprises the C12-C15 alkyl benzoate in a range from 2.5% to 4.5% by wt .

14. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1 wherein, the emulsion comprises silicone oil dimethicones in a range from 0.5% to 1.5% by wt .

15. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the polyols compound is glycerol, propylene glycol and mixture thereof.

16. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 15, wherein the polyol glycerol is in a range from 8% to 13% by wt .

17. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 15, wherein the polyol propylene glycol is present in a range from 1.5% to 3% by wt .

18. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 15, wherein in the mixture the glycerol and the propylene glycol is present in a range from 4.3:1 to 5.7:1.

19. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsion comprises carbomer in a range from 0.1% to 0.55 by wt .

20. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsion comprises phenoxyethanol in a range from 0.2% to 1.2% by wt .

21. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the emulsion comprises auxiliary agents selected from the group comprising of sodium hyaluronate, aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder, ubiquinone, ascorbylphosphate , creatin, kreatinin, theobroma cocoa seed butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter and/or antioxidant .

22. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition comprises auxiliary agents in a range from 0.05 to 0.5% by wt .

23. The skin care oil in water emulsion as claimed in claim 1, wherein the composition has a pH in a range from 6.5 to 7.5.

Dated this 1^st day of August 2019