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WO2020030784A1 - Composition à deux phases comprenant un agent anti-transpirant ou déodorant - Google Patents

Composition à deux phases comprenant un agent anti-transpirant ou déodorant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020030784A1
WO2020030784A1 PCT/EP2019/071427 EP2019071427W WO2020030784A1 WO 2020030784 A1 WO2020030784 A1 WO 2020030784A1 EP 2019071427 W EP2019071427 W EP 2019071427W WO 2020030784 A1 WO2020030784 A1 WO 2020030784A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
aluminum
phase
oily phase
composition
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2019/071427
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Laura CLEMENT
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to EP19749742.3A priority Critical patent/EP3833319A1/fr
Publication of WO2020030784A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020030784A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/28Zirconium; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q13/00Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q15/00Anti-perspirants or body deodorants

Definitions

  • Bi-phase composition comprising an anti-transpirant or deodorant agent
  • This invention relates to a bi-phase composition
  • a bi-phase composition comprising an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, and at least one perfume. It also relates to a kit comprising each separate phase (aqueous and oily).
  • anti-transpirant and/or deodorant compositions are more pleasant and easier to apply (usually in aerosol or spray form) particularly when they avoid the formation of residues on the skin.
  • Liquid formulations comprising a deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent, for example an aluminum salt, usually comprise a perfume.
  • a deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent for example an aluminum salt
  • this perfume degrades over time, particularly due to adsorption by the aluminum salt, which deteriorates its organoleptic properties.
  • anti-transpirant formulas comprising a perfume, that protect the perfume from degradation.
  • anti-transpirant formulas comprising a non-negligible quantity of a perfume.
  • deodorant and/or anti-transpirant compositions that can be created by consumers themselves. Users could adjust the deodorant and/or anti- transpirant efficiency, and the olfactory intensity, to suit their needs.
  • bi-phase compositions comprising an aqueous phase comprising a deodorant and/or anti- transpirant agent, and an oily phase comprising a perfume.
  • These bi-phase compositions protect the perfume from degradation, and have good cosmetic properties. They can also be modulated and formulated according to consumers’ needs.
  • the present invention relates to a bi-phase composition
  • a bi-phase composition comprising: a) an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent; and
  • an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the bi-phase composition according to the invention comprises the aqueous phase and the oily phase in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit comprising:
  • composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent;
  • composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, of at least one perfume.
  • compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention are preferably identical to the aqueous phase a) and the oily phase b) of the composition, respectively.
  • bi-phase composition designates a composition that is made of up two distinct phases, one aqueous phase and one oily phase, which requires prior stirring to form an emulsion before application.
  • compositions according to this invention are cosmetic compositions.“Cosmetic” means a composition compatible with the skin, mucous membranes and skin appendages.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising stirring of a bi-phase composition according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of mixing a bi-phase composition according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the preparation of a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.
  • the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of preparing a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of a composition i) with a composition ii) of the kit according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material.
  • the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.
  • Human keratin materials refers to the skin (body, face, eye contour), hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, body hair, nails, lips and mucous membranes.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • Composition i) of the kit according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of, an aqueous phase.
  • An aqueous phase means a phase containing water and generally any molecule dissolved in water in the composition.
  • the aqueous phase is an aqueous solution.
  • the aqueous phase according to the invention contains water.
  • the water-soluble or miscible solvents comprise short-chain monoalcohols for example in C1 - C4 such as ethanol, isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1 ,2-propylene glycol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol (or 1 ,2- octanediol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethylether, triethylene glycol monomethylether and sorbitol.
  • ethanol hexylene glycol and/or caprylyl glycol will be used.
  • water and possibly the water-soluble or miscible solvent(s) have a content of at least 55% by weight of the relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and preferably at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 75% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight.
  • the concentration of the aqueous phase preferably varies from 50 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition and more preferably 60 to 90% and more preferably 65 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition.
  • the aqueous phase according to the invention comprises at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent.
  • the term "deodorant agent” denotes any agent that, alone, has the effect of masking, absorbing, enhancing and/or reducing the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat.
  • antiperspirant agent denotes any substance that, alone, has the effect of reducing sweat flow, reducing the damp sensation on the skin associated with human sweat, masking human sweat.
  • Anti-transpirant agents according to this invention are advantageously chosen from among anti-transpirant salts or complexes.
  • anti-transpirants it is advantageous to mention anti-transparent salts or complexes of aluminum and/or zirconium.
  • aluminum and zirconium salts mention can be made in particular of aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentach loro hydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.
  • Zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride complexes with an amino acid are generally known under the name ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine).
  • Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate is in particular sold under the trade name REACH 301® by SUMMITREHEIS.
  • complexes of aluminum and zirconium mention can be made of complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid such as glycine having INCI name: ALUMINUM ZIRCONIUM TETRACHLOROHYDREX GLY for example that sold under the trade name REACH AZP-908-SUF® by SUMMITREHEIS.
  • the anti-transpirant agent is chosen from among an aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine complex, aluminum chlorohydrate and mixes thereof.
  • Anti-transpirant salts or complexes that may be in the form of mixes of salts and/or complexes described above, can be present in the aqueous phase with a content of 1 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, for example from 10 to 28% by weight, for example from 12 to 25% by weight.
  • the aqueous phase may also contain at least one deodorant agent.
  • deodorant agents mention may be made of:
  • Quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts;
  • diglycerol monocaprate diglycerol monolaurate, glycerol monolaurate
  • zinc salts such as zinc salicylate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (more commonly referred to as zinc pidolate), zinc sulfate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc ricinoleate, zinc glycinate, zinc carbonate, zinc citrate, zinc chloride, zinc laurate, zinc oleate, zinc orthophosphate, zinc stearate, zinc tartrate, zinc lactate, zinc acetate or mixtures thereof;
  • - odor absorbers such as zeolites, cyclodextrins, metal oxide silicates such as those described in application US2005/063928; metal oxide particles modified by a transition metal such as those described in applications US2005084464 and US2005084474, aluminosilicates such as those described in application EP1658863, chitosan derivative particles such as those described in patent US6916465;
  • odorous compounds such as triethyl citrate, arylsulfatase, 5-Lipoxygenase, aminocyclase, b-glucoronidase inhibitors;
  • Deodorant agents may be present in the aqueous phase with a content of 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, and preferably with a content of 1 to 10% by weight.
  • the aqueous phase may also include electrolytes. These electrolytes may be chosen from among monopotassium or dipotassium phosphate, sodium chloride, magnesium sulfate and disodium EDTA.
  • the electrolytes may be present in a quantity between 0.1% and 5% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one oily phase.
  • Composition ii) of the kit according to the invention comprises, and preferably consists of, an oily phase.
  • the oily phase generally includes one or a plurality of hydrophobic compounds rendering said phase non-miscible in water.
  • Said phase is liquid (in the absence of a structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C).
  • the oily phase generally comprises at least an oil, preferably at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, and possibly at least one volatile or non-volatile silicone oil.
  • “ON” means a fatty body that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg namely 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil denotes any oil capable of evaporating in contact with skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils according to the invention are volatile cosmetic oils that are liquid at ambient temperature, having a vapor pressure different to zero, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, particularly ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more specifically ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).
  • non-volatile oil denotes an oil remaining on skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and particularly having a vapor pressure less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
  • Oils complying with the invention are preferably chosen from among all cosmetically acceptable oils, particularly mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils, particularly hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils and mixes thereof.
  • Hydrocarbon oil means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly one or several functions chosen from among hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably from 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably from 100 to 30,000 mPa.s.
  • Silicon oil means an oil comprising carbon atoms and at least one silicon atom in its structure.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and particularly petroleum- based C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes (also referred to as isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permetyls, C 8 -Ci 6 branched esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, particularly those sold under the name Shell Solt by SHELL, may also be used;
  • volatile linear alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane.
  • the volatile linear alkanes comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, particularly from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 1 1 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention can be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C1 1 ), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14) and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane is chosen from among n-nonane, n- undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane and mixes thereof. According to one preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixes of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and n- tridecane (C13).
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oils suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of:
  • plant-based hydrocarbon oils such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides having 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or wheat germ oil, olive oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, coconut, cotton, alfalfa, poppy seed, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant seed, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passiflora, musk rose, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado oils, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the trade names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dimethyl ether;
  • R 1 COOR 2 wherein R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly branched containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R 1 + R 2 > 10 such as for example Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate)), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, Ci 2 to C 15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates
  • octyl dodecanol isostearyl alcohol, 2- butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
  • - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid
  • volatile silicones mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, particularly those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 6 m 2 /s, and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • R represents an alkyl group comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms and in which one or several hydrogen atoms can be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • non-volatile silicone oils mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are non-volatile and linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups which are pendant or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethyl- siloxysilicates; and mixtures thereof. More particularly, a linear non-volatile polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) may be used.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
  • the oily phase comprises at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from among isoalkanes in C 8 -Ci 6 from mineral origin such as isododecane and volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such undecane, tridecane and mixtures thereof; and at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil chosen from among esters of fatty acids with formula R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a ramified chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R 2 > 10.
  • R1COOR2 wherein R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, particularly a ramified chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R 2 > 10.
  • the oil(s) is (are) present with a content of at least 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight.
  • the concentration of the oily phase preferably varies from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the bi-phase composition, and more preferably 20 to 40% and more preferably 25% to 35%.
  • the oily phase comprises at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the perfume present in the oily phase can be any perfume known in prior art.
  • perfumes can be one of the perfumes described in S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Chemicals (2003 edition), and in “Flavor and Fragrance Materials - 1991 ", Allured Publishing Co. Wheaton, III. It can also be a natural product (essential, absolute oils, resinoids, resins, concretes) and/or synthetic products (terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic), provided that they are fragrant.
  • natural product essential, absolute oils, resinoids, resins, concretes
  • synthetic products terpenic or sesquiterpenic hydrocarbons, alcohols, phenols, aldehydes, ketones, ethers, acids, esters, nitriles, peroxides, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or cyclic
  • the oily phase comprises at least 3% by weight and preferably at least 3.5% by weight, of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase comprises from 2.5% to 10% by weight and preferably 3 to 7% by weight, of perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase according to the invention may include an oily phase colorant (or liposoluble colorant).
  • liposoluble colorants particular mention can be made of Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6 (Cl 61565), b-carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC orange 4 (Cl: 15510, Na salt ), DC Orange 5, Quinoline Yellow, Red 21 , Red 27 and beta- carotene.
  • the oily phase comprises from 0.0005% to 0.1% by weight and preferably 0.001 to 0.01 % by weight, of liposoluble colorant, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the oily phase according to the invention can comprise at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactants can be of any sort usually used in cosmetics, such as anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or non-ionic surfactants.
  • the oily phase comprises a non-ionic surfactant.
  • This non-ionic surfactant may have an HLB of between 2 and 1 1 .
  • HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
  • the HLB or hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of the surfactants used according to the invention can be determined using the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method.
  • the scale varies from 0 to 20 (including bounds otherwise the molecules are no longer surfactants). The solubility in water increases as this value increases, and conversely, the surfactant will have an increasing affinity for oil as this value decreases.
  • HLB The HLB according to GRIFFIN is defined in the publication J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (Volume 5), pages 249-256 or the HLB determined experimentally and as described in the book by the authors F. PUISIEUX and M. SEILLER, entitled "GALENICA 5: Dispersed systems - Volume I - Surface agents and emulsions - Chapter IV - HLB and critical HLB concepts, pages 153-194 - paragraph 1.1.2. Experimental determination of HLB, pages 164-180.
  • non-ionic surfactants are used such as:
  • - C8-C30 polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols, having in particular from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, such as oxyethylene ether of lauric alcohol with 4 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Laureth-4"), oxyethylenated ether of decylic alcohol with 3 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Deceth-3"), oxyethylenated ether of oleic alcohol with 5 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Oleth-5"), oxyethylenated ether of cetearylic alcohol with 30 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30”), oxyethylenated ether of stearylic alcohol with 20 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20”) such as BRIJ 78 marketed by UNIQEMA, or oxyethylenated ether of cetearylic alcohol
  • C8-C30 fatty alcohol and sugar particularly alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or in mixtures with alcohols;
  • - ethers of polyethylene glycol having in particular from 20 to 120 ethylene oxide motifs, and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of glucose or of methylglucose,
  • esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan particularly having from 2 to 50 moles (particularly from 10 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide (such as the ester of oleic acid and sorbitan with 40 oxyethylenated groups (PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate), or sorbitan monostearate with oxyethylenated groups (polysorbate-61 ),
  • esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of glucose or of alkyl(C1 -C2)glucose or sucrose and
  • the non-ionic surfactant is chosen from among C8-C30 (preferably C10-C18) polyoxyethylene fatty alcohols, particularly with from 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide; alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides, alone or mixed with alcohols and esters of C8-C30 fatty acids and polyoxyethylenated sorbitan, particularly having 2 to 50 moles (particularly from 10 to 50 moles) of ethylene oxide.
  • alkyl polyglucosides used in the framework of the invention may or may not by polyalkoxylated.
  • alkyl (C8-C30) (poly)glucosides are chosen from among compounds with the following general formula:
  • R denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, having from 12 to 44 carbon atoms
  • the group G denotes a saccharide residue comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms and a is number varying from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5 and even more preferably a is equal to 1.
  • R denotes a branched alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 44 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 36 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 18 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the saccharide residue is chosen from among glucose, dextrose, saccharose, fructose, galactose, maltose, maltotriose, lactose, cellobiose, mannose, ribose, dextran, talose, allose, xylose, levoglucan, cellulose, starch and methyl glucose. More preferably, the saccharide residue denotes xylose.
  • the alkyl polyglucosides may be chosen particularly from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols comprising from 12 to 44 atoms of carbon and glucose, maltose, sucrose, xylose or fructose and ethers or mixtures of ethers of fatty alcohols comprising 12 to 44 atoms of carbon and methyl glucose.
  • the fatty motif of ether can be chosen particularly among cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, hexadecanoyl, octyldodecyl motifs and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl. Preferably, these are octyldodecyl motifs.
  • alkyl polyglucoside(s) are chosen from among compounds with the following formula:
  • R' designates a saturated branched alkyl radical comprising 12 to 44 carbon atoms, preferably from 16 to 36 and even more preferably 18 to 22 carbon atoms
  • the group G designates a saccharide residue comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a xylose residue.
  • the alkyl polyglucoside is an octyldodecyl xyloside like that marketed under the tradename FLUIDANOV 20 X by SEPPIC in the form of a mixture composed of 75% of octyldodecanol and 25% of octyldodecyl xyloside.
  • the HLB of this surfactant calculated using the Davies method, is 3.425.
  • the surfactant can be present in a quantity ranging from 0.001 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, preferably ranging from 0.005 to 0.1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.01% to 0.09% by weight.
  • the surfactant is of the alkyl polyglucoside type, and is preferably octyldodecyl xyloside.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one C10-C26 alcohol, such as octyldodecanol, in a mass ratio of Cio-C 26 alcohol / surfactant of the alkyl polyglucoside type, in particular octyldodecanol/octyldodecyl xyloside, varying from 3 to 5, and preferably 4.0.
  • the oily phase and/or the bi-phase composition according to the invention does (do) not comprise any other surfactants different from the surfactants mentioned above.
  • compositions according to the invention may also comprise additional cosmetic and dermatological agents.
  • the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can furthermore comprise cosmetic additives chosen from among opacifiers, preservatives, solar filters, dermatological or cosmetic agents, fillers, suspension agents, sequestrants or any other ingredient routinely used in cosmetics for this type of application.
  • the bi-phase composition according to the invention is liquid.
  • Liquid means that the composition is sufficiently fluid so that it can be stirred and/or so that it can be sprayed.
  • the bi-phase composition according to the invention is thus not solid, and in particular is neither a stick nor a roll-on.
  • the bi-phase composition according to the invention can be contained in a device such that it can be applied on the skin, particularly by spraying.
  • this device is a pump bottle.
  • another purpose of this invention is a device comprising the bi-phase composition according to the invention, said device preferably being a pump bottle, particular made of plastic (PET type) or glass.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising stirring of a bi-phase composition according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials. Stirring is typically done manually.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of mixing a bi-phase composition according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material.
  • the invention also relates to a kit comprising:
  • composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an aqueous phase comprising at least one deodorant and/or anti-transpirant agent;
  • composition comprising, and preferably consisting of, an oily phase comprising at least 2.5% by weight of at least one perfume, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention are preferably identical to the aqueous phase a) and the oily phase b) as described, respectively.
  • each composition i) and ii) is liquid.
  • Each composition i) and ii) is thus not solid, and in particular is neither a stick nor a roll-on.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product for the treatment and/or care of human keratin materials, preferably of the skin, comprising the preparation of a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of two compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention, then its application on the surface of said keratin materials.
  • the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.
  • This invention also relates to a cosmetic product to treat human transpiration and/or body odors related to transpiration consisting of preparing a bi-phase composition by mixing and stirring of two compositions i) and ii) of the kit according to the invention, and then applying it on the surface of a human keratin material.
  • the mixture of compositions i) and ii) is made in a weight ratio of between 60:40 and 80:20 respectively, and preferably between 65:35 and 75:25, and preferably about 70:30.
  • Example 1 Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention
  • Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention are prepared according to the method described hereinbelow and containing the ingredients mentioned in the following table. Each formula is composed of 70% by weight of a composition C1 (i.e. aqueous phase), and 30% by weight of composition C2 (i.e. oily phase):
  • phase A ingredients are mixed, then all phase B materials. Phases A and B are then mixed to obtain composition C1 .
  • phase C ingredients are mixed, and then all phase D ingredients.
  • Phases C and D are then mixed to obtain composition C2.
  • each glass pot 100g of formula F3 is weighed in each glass pot: therefore each of the two pots P1 and P2 contains 100g of formula F3.
  • pot P1 is stirred by means of the magnetized bar on the magnetic stirring plate for 5 minutes (stirring such that there is a vortex forcing the two phases, oily and aqueous, to disperse homogeneously).
  • Pot P1 is then stirred on the magnetic stirring plate (stirring such that there is a vortex forcing the two phases, oily and aqueous, to disperse homogeneously); pot P2 is left in the static state.
  • the formulas are prepared, each is placed in a PET drum and phase separation is measured.
  • phase separation remains significant at concentrations of less than 0.1%.
  • Fluidanov 20X 0% of Fluidanov 20X, formula F6
  • the two phases remain perfectly transparent and the interface well defined, but there a few drops of oil in the aqueous phase stuck to the walls of the PET drum.
  • Fluidanov 20X helps good separation in the case of a PET type plastic packaging.
  • Example 4 Tests with different surfactants in a formula according to the invention
  • compositions C1 are identical to composition C1 -2 with formula F2 described in example 1.
  • compositions C2 are identical to composition C2-2 with formula 2 in example 1 , except that they contain 0.1% of the surfactant defined above instead of 0.1% of Fluidanov 20X.
  • the appearances of the interfaces are evaluated at TO, T 1 min, T5min, T 15min and T2h.
  • Fluidanov 20X enables the fastest separation.
  • deceth-3 has the behavior closest to that of Fluidanov 20X, followed by PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate.
  • the polysorbate-61 , laureth-4 and oleth-5 surfactants appear to slow down separation.
  • deceth-3 enables phase separation with a clearly defined interface and two transparent phases, like Fluidanov 20X.
  • PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate does give two transparent phases, but the interface is still not clearly defined (a whitish separation phase is observed at the top of the aqueous phase).
  • the other surfactants give non-transparent oily phases that are not well-defined.
  • PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate and deceth-3 are conforming with Fluidanov 20X.
  • PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate takes longer to return to bi-phases (with a clearly defined interface) than deceth-3, but deceth-3 leaves oil droplets in contact with the wall in the aqueous phase, which is not the case with PEG-40 sorbitan peroleate.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition à deux phases comprenant : a) une phase aqueuse comprenant au moins un agent déodorant et/ou anti-transpirant ; et b) une phase huileuse comprenant au moins 2,5 % en poids d'au moins un parfum, par rapport au poids total de la phase huileuse. L'invention concerne également un kit et des procédés cosmétiques utilisant ladite composition ou ledit kit.
PCT/EP2019/071427 2018-08-09 2019-08-09 Composition à deux phases comprenant un agent anti-transpirant ou déodorant WO2020030784A1 (fr)

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EP19749742.3A EP3833319A1 (fr) 2018-08-09 2019-08-09 Composition à deux phases comprenant un agent anti-transpirant ou déodorant

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FR1857420 2018-08-09
FR1857420A FR3084835B1 (fr) 2018-08-09 2018-08-09 Composition bi-phase comprenant un actif anti-transpirant ou deodorant

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FR3117802B1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2024-01-12 Oreal Eau micellaire transparente anti-transpirante et/ou déodorante

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US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
US20040141934A1 (en) * 2003-01-17 2004-07-22 Colgate-Palmolive Company Two-phase roll-on cosmetic product
EP1475077A2 (fr) * 2003-05-09 2004-11-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Compositions antiperspirant liquides à deux phases
US20050063928A1 (en) 2003-09-18 2005-03-24 Withiam Michael C. Compositions comprising odor neutralizing metal oxide silicates
US20050084464A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method for reducing odor using metal-modified particles
US20050084474A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Method for reducing odor using coordinated polydentate compounds
US6916465B2 (en) 2000-03-23 2005-07-12 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Deodorizing preparations containing nanosacle chitosans and/or chitosan derivatives
EP1658863A1 (fr) 2003-08-08 2006-05-24 Kao Corporation Deodorant
US20130160788A1 (en) * 2011-12-22 2013-06-27 The Dial Corporation Multi-phase liquid antiperspirant compositions and antiperspirant products including the same

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US3792068A (en) 1971-04-02 1974-02-12 Procter & Gamble Dry powder aerosol antiperspirant composition incorporating dry powder antiperspirant active complex and process for its preparation
US6916465B2 (en) 2000-03-23 2005-07-12 Cognis Deutschland Gmbh & Co. Kg Deodorizing preparations containing nanosacle chitosans and/or chitosan derivatives
US20040141934A1 (en) * 2003-01-17 2004-07-22 Colgate-Palmolive Company Two-phase roll-on cosmetic product
EP1475077A2 (fr) * 2003-05-09 2004-11-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Compositions antiperspirant liquides à deux phases
EP1658863A1 (fr) 2003-08-08 2006-05-24 Kao Corporation Deodorant
US20050063928A1 (en) 2003-09-18 2005-03-24 Withiam Michael C. Compositions comprising odor neutralizing metal oxide silicates
US20050084464A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Worldwide, Inc. Method for reducing odor using metal-modified particles
US20050084474A1 (en) 2003-10-16 2005-04-21 Kimberly-Clark Corporation Method for reducing odor using coordinated polydentate compounds
US20130160788A1 (en) * 2011-12-22 2013-06-27 The Dial Corporation Multi-phase liquid antiperspirant compositions and antiperspirant products including the same

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S. ARCTANDER: "Perfume and Flavor Chemicals", 2003

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FR3084835B1 (fr) 2021-09-24
EP3833319A1 (fr) 2021-06-16
FR3084835A1 (fr) 2020-02-14

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