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WO2016101135A1 - An oil-in-water emulsified composition - Google Patents

An oil-in-water emulsified composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016101135A1
WO2016101135A1 PCT/CN2014/094630 CN2014094630W WO2016101135A1 WO 2016101135 A1 WO2016101135 A1 WO 2016101135A1 CN 2014094630 W CN2014094630 W CN 2014094630W WO 2016101135 A1 WO2016101135 A1 WO 2016101135A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
branched
linear
oil
emulsified composition
water emulsified
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2014/094630
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Yangdong CHEN
Xinrong LIN
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN201480084372.5A priority Critical patent/CN107207823B/en
Priority to PCT/CN2014/094630 priority patent/WO2016101135A1/en
Publication of WO2016101135A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016101135A1/en

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    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L33/00Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and only one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L33/24Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of an oil-in-water emulsified composition for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone.
  • Skin pigmentation control has been always one of the key factors to achieve ideal skin, especially for consumers from Asian countries.
  • Various types of active agents and plant extracts are developed to meet the consumers growing interests in ′′ingredients from natural origin′′ .
  • Paeonia lactiflora was mentioned to have effect on central-nervous-system-inhibiting and blood-vessel-expanding, it is used for treating thoracic, abdominal and costal pains, abdominal pain due to dysentery, spontaneous perspiration and night sweat, fever with yin asthenia, irregular menstrual periods, metrorrhagia and metrostaxis, leucorrhea, which is used via oral administration, see in Medicinal Plant Images Database, School of Chinese Medicine.
  • Paeonia lactiflora in compositions for various types of skin benefits, such as anti-ageing, whitening, which are disclosed in the patent applications such as JP2002128657, JP2002265348, KR20090130584, and CN102247446.
  • JP2002265348 disclosed a combination of L-ascorbic acid and two or more ingredients chosen from a group of plant extracts, wherein peony extract is disclosed.
  • the peony extracts have some disadvantage when they′re used in the conventional cosmetic products, such as unpleasant smell, unstable and significant color evolution in the cosmetic composition, especially due to the exposure to the sun and/or elevated temperatures.
  • an oil-in-water emulsified composition having a pH value of 5 or less and comprising (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent chosen from i) a compound of formula (I) , ii) a compound of formula (II) , or iii) a combination thereof,
  • R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl, more preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl, most preferably hydrogen;
  • R 2 is selected from a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl, more preferably a linear or
  • R 4 is selected from hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl) , more preferably hydrogen;
  • R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl, preferably a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl; preferably one of R 5 and R 6 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • the oil-in-water emulsified composition according to the present invention exhibits high whitening efficacy without the unpleasant smell and significant color evolution issues when exposure to the sun or elevated temperatures.
  • the invention provides an oil-in-water emulsified composition
  • AMPS polymer 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid
  • B at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae
  • C at least one whitening agent chosen from i) a compound of formula (I) , ii) a compound of formula (II) , or iii) a combination thereof.
  • the oil-in-water emulsified composition of the invention has a pH value of 5 or less, preferably a pH value ranging from 4 to 5, more preferably ranging from 4 to 4.5.
  • the AMPS polymers used in accordance with the invention which are different from polyacrylamides, are crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
  • They are preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%neutralized.
  • AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.
  • crosslinking agents examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) .
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and more particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the polymer.
  • the AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case they are:
  • copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above.
  • these copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • fatty chain′′ means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution that has a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the ′′homopolymers′′ according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
  • the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
  • the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3 , in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90%to 100%;
  • a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.
  • the AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .
  • CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and the salts thereof:
  • -R 1 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • -X 1 is chosen from:
  • R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO 3 -) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 -) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 H 2 -) group.
  • nonionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • -R 15 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • -X 2 is chosen from:
  • R 16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) ; a hydroxyl group (-OH) ; ether.
  • fatty-chain-free hydrophobic comonomers examples that may be mentioned include:
  • styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
  • -vinyl ethers of formula CH 2 CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons;
  • silicone polymers which lead to silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides,
  • -R 23 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7
  • -X 3 is chosen from:
  • R 24 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) .
  • CTFA name Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers examples include:
  • AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) ;
  • AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60) .
  • the preferred polymers are more particularly optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance that sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .
  • CTFA name ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide
  • the AMPS polymer or copolymer will be used in powder form.
  • acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers such as the copolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C 13 -C 14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the trade name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC, are excluded from the definition of the present water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers, thus from the definition of the present AMPS polymers.
  • the AMPS polymer accounts for from 0.1 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 wt %to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises an extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceas.
  • the extract is obtained from a naturally grown part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit and rhizome, more preferably root) and a cultivated part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cells, tissues, organs and whole plant) of the plant.
  • a naturally grown part preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit and rhizome, more preferably root
  • a cultivated part preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cells, tissues, organs and whole plant
  • the plant in the family Paeoniaceae is a plant of the Paeonia L. genus, preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of Paeonia lactiflora Pall., Paeonia anomala ssp. Veitchii (Lynch) D. Y. Hong, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews, Paeonia ostii T. Hong & J. X. Zhang, Paeonia rockii, Paeonia decomposita and Paeonia delavayi, and more preferably Paeonia lactiflora Pall.
  • the extract of the present invention can be obtained following the conventional methods.
  • the root of plant was crushed and washed, then submit to an alcoholic extraction, the liquor parts were filter out and concentrated to centrifuge in order to removal impurity.
  • the extracts were applied to a resin column, and eluting gradually by water and alcohol in order to get final extracts. This final extracts were concentrated and spray dried to obtain products.
  • the extract may be treated in line with any conventional process.
  • the extract is paeonia lactiflora root extract.
  • the paeonia lactiflora root extract contains no less than 40%Paeoniflorin.
  • the extract accounts for from 0.001 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • the present invention comprises at least a compound of formula (I) .
  • R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl;
  • R 2 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl.
  • R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl;
  • R 2 is selected from a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
  • R 1 and R 3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or a branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
  • R 2 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
  • R 1 and R 3 are hydrogen.
  • R 2 is or ethyl.
  • R 1 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, linear or branched C 3 -C 6 alkynyl group;
  • R 2 is selected from linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, linear or branched C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group.
  • R 1 and R 3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C 1 -C 4 , linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl group, linear or branched C 3 -C 4 alkynyl group;
  • R 2 is selected from linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkenyl group.
  • R 1 and R 3 is hydrogen, R 2 is ethyl.
  • the compound of formula (I) is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
  • Compound of formula (I) is commercial available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
  • the compound of the formula (I) accounts for from 0.001 wt % to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt % to 3 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 wt % to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • the present invention comprises at least a compound of formula (II).
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl;
  • R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl, a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C 2 -C 20 alkynyl.
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
  • R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
  • R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
  • R 4 is hydrogen
  • R 5 and R 6 are methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl; R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl.
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl; R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl.
  • R 4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl; R 5 and R 6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl.
  • R 4 is hydrogen
  • R 5 is methyl
  • R 6 is hydrogen
  • compound of formula (II) is selected from linear or branched C 1 -C 10 alkyl ester of ferulic acid.
  • R 4 is selected from ethyl and isooctyl, R 5 and R 6 are hydrogen.
  • the compound of formula (II) is ferulic acid.
  • Compound of formula (II) is commercial available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
  • the compound of the formula (II) accounts for from 0.001 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.05 wt %to 0.5 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • the compound of formula (I) and the compound of formula (II) may be used in combination at any ratio therebetween.
  • the compound of formula (I) and the compound of formula (II) in total may account for from 0.002 wt %to 10 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 5 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 1%to 90%by weight, especially from 5%to 85%and more particularly from 10%to 80%, with respect to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the formulation form of the composition desired.
  • the amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50%by weight and better still at least 60%by weight.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • hydrophilic solvent such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • the emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) .
  • the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material ranging from 0.1 wt %to 20 wt %, preferably from 0.5 wt %to 15 wt %, more preferably 1 wt %to 10 wt %, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • W/O emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning or the oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of
  • coemulsifiers can also be added thereto.
  • the coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI
  • sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by
  • O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C 8 -C 24 fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.
  • emulsifiers of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and
  • glyceryl ester of fatty acid of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di-and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di-and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di-and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
  • these surfactants such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
  • fatty alcohol ethers for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) .
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and their mixtures.
  • sugar mono-or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by Degussa Goldschmidt, or else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by Croda, and sucrose stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
  • lipoamino acids and their salts such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, such as, for example, monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-11PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21P, by Ajinomoto.
  • Co-emulsifiers for instance fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol, may be added to these emulsifiers.
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
  • the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
  • composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
  • oil means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1%to 90%, in particular from 5%to 80%, in particular from 10%to 70%and more particularly from 20%to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm 2 /min.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm 2 /min, limits included.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • composition according to the invention may further comprise adjuvants commonly used in the envisaged application field.
  • Mentions may be made of waxes, pigments, fillers, colorants, additional surfactants, additional emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers; additional cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV-screening agents, additional polymers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, additional thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, bactericides, ceramides, odour absorbers, antioxidants.
  • these additional adjuvants may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.001%to 80%by weight and especially from 0.1%to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the composition, or into lipid vesicles.
  • these adjuvants, and the proportions thereof, will be chosen by a person skilled in the art such that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
  • This composition may be in any galenic form normally used in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, and especially in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a dispersion, optionally a two-phase dispersion, of the lotion type, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion (for example W/O/W or O/W/O) , an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase with the aid of spherules, these spherules possibly being polymer nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type; aqueous or oily gels.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • composition in the form of an emulsion is preferably used.
  • the composition may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a gel or a mousse. It may optionally be applied in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick.
  • composition of the present invention can be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Specifically, the composition of the present invention can be prepared by a method comprising mixing (A) the at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) the at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) the at least one whitening agent, and adjusting the resultant till a pH value of 5 or less is reached.
  • the composition used according to the invention may constitute a skincare composition, and especially a cleansing, protecting, medicated or care cream for the face, the hands, the feet, the major anatomical folds or the body (for example day creams, night creams, makeup-removing creams, foundation creams or antisun creams) ; a fluid foundation, a makeup-removing milk, a protective or care body milk or an antisun milk; a skincare lotion, gel or mousse, such as a cleansing lotion.
  • a cleansing, protecting, medicated or care cream for the face, the hands, the feet, the major anatomical folds or the body for example day creams, night creams, makeup-removing creams, foundation creams or antisun creams
  • a fluid foundation for example day creams, night creams, makeup-removing creams, foundation creams or antisun creams
  • a skincare lotion, gel or mousse such as a cleansing lotion.
  • a (non-therapeutic) cosmetic process for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone comprising application of the oil-in-water emulsified composition according to the present invention to the skin.
  • the stability tests at 4°C stability for two months were conducted using Zhongke Meiling refrigerator (YC-260L, China) , by leaving the invention and comparative formulas in the refrigerator for 2 months.
  • the invention formula 1 and 2 have very good whitening effect, when applied on the face.

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Abstract

This invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsified composition, having a pH value of 5 or less and comprising (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent. The present oil-in-water emulsified composition exhibits high whitening efficacy without the unpleasant smell and significant color evolution issues when exposure to the sun or elevated temperatures.

Description

AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSIFIED COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of an oil-in-water emulsified composition for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone.
BACKGROUND ART
Skin pigmentation control has been always one of the key factors to achieve ideal skin, especially for consumers from Asian countries. Various types of active agents and plant extracts are developed to meet the consumers growing interests in ″ingredients from natural origin″ .
In traditional Chinese medicine, based on the ancient use of natural products, it is mentioned for a long history of medical and cosmetic use of herbs, As an example, Paeonia lactiflora was mentioned to have effect on central-nervous-system-inhibiting and blood-vessel-expanding, it is used for treating thoracic, abdominal and costal pains, abdominal pain due to dysentery, spontaneous perspiration and night sweat, fever with yin asthenia, irregular menstrual periods, metrorrhagia and metrostaxis, leucorrhea, which is used via oral administration, see in Medicinal Plant Images Database, School of Chinese Medicine. It is also known to use Paeonia lactiflora in compositions for various types of skin benefits, such as anti-ageing, whitening, which are disclosed in the patent applications such as JP2002128657, JP2002265348, KR20090130584, and CN102247446.
Among all the prior arts mentioned above, JP2002265348 disclosed a combination of L-ascorbic acid and two or more ingredients chosen from a group of plant extracts, wherein peony extract is disclosed.
However, these prior arts are not totally satisfying. The peony extracts have some disadvantage when they′re used in the conventional cosmetic products, such as unpleasant smell, unstable and significant color evolution in the cosmetic composition, especially due to the exposure to  the sun and/or elevated temperatures.
Therefore there remains a need for products for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone without above drawbacks/disadvantages.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided an oil-in-water emulsified composition, having a pH value of 5 or less and comprising (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent chosen from i) a compound of formula (I) , ii) a compound of formula (II) , or iii) a combination thereof,
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000001
wherein, R1 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, more preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, most preferably hydrogen; R2 is selected from a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, more preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl or ethyl,
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000002
wherein, R4 is selected from hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl) , more preferably hydrogen; R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl; preferably one of R5 and R6 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to the present invention exhibits high whitening efficacy without the unpleasant smell and significant color evolution issues when exposure to the sun or elevated temperatures.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The invention provides an oil-in-water emulsified composition comprising (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid (hereinafter sometimes referred to as AMPS polymer) , (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent chosen from i) a compound of formula (I) , ii) a compound of formula (II) , or iii) a combination thereof.
The oil-in-water emulsified composition of the invention has a pH value of 5 or less, preferably a pH value ranging from 4 to 5, more preferably ranging from 4 to 4.5.
AMPS polvmers
The AMPS polymers used in accordance with the invention, which are different from polyacrylamides, are crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers comprising at least the acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer, in a form partially or  totally neutralized with a mineral base other than ammonia, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide.
They are preferably totally neutralized or virtually totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90%neutralized.
These AMPS polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by free-radical polymerization.
Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di (meth) acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth) acrylate, allylic ethers of alcohols of the sugar series, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) . The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol%to 10 mol%and more particularly from 0.2 mol%to 2 mol%relative to the polymer.
The AMPS polymers in accordance with the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case they are:
-either ″homopolymers″ comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;
-or copolymers obtained from AMPS and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if  they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When the said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term ″fatty chain″ means any hydrocarbon-based chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.
The term ″water-soluble or water-dispersible″ means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25℃, to a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution that has a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60%and preferably of at least 70%.
The ″homopolymers″ according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they may be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:
(a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and tert-butanol;
(b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90%to 100%;
(c) the crosslinking monomer (s) is (are) added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b) ;
(d) a standard free-radical polymerization is performed in the presence of free-radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150℃; the polymer precipitates in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.
The AMPS homopolymers according to the invention are preferably optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance the poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) sold by the company  Clariant under the name Hostacerin
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000003
(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .
The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
The water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or nonionic.
Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds and the salts thereof:
- (meth) acrylic acid,
-styrenesulfonic acid,
-vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,
-vinylphosphonic acid,
-maleic acid,
-itaconic acid,
-crotonic acid,
-the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000004
in which:
-R1 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
-X1 is chosen from:
-alkyl ethers of-OR2 type in which R2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonic (-SO3-) and/or sulfate (-SO4-) and/or phosphate (-PO4H2-) group.
Among the nonionic water-soluble comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:
- (meth) acrylamide,
-N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,
-N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,
-maleic anhydride,
-vinylamine,
N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
-vinyl alcohol of formula CH2=CHOH,
-the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000005
in which:
-R15 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
-X2 is chosen from:
-alkyl ethers of-OR16 type in which R16 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine) ; a hydroxyl group (-OH) ; ether.
Mention is made, for example, of glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, of diethylene glycol or of polyalkylene glycol.
Among the fatty-chain-free hydrophobic comonomers, examples that may be mentioned include:
styrene and its derivatives, such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,
-vinyl acetate of formula CH2=CH-OCOCH3
-vinyl ethers of formula CH2=CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons;
-acrylonitrile,
-caprolactone,
-vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,
-silicone derivatives, which lead to silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and  silicone methacrylamides,
-the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000006
in which:
-R23 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 and -C3H7
-X3 is chosen from:
-alkyl ethers of-OR24 type in which R24 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
Mention is made, for example, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.
The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 10 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 8 000 000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 7 000 000 g/mol.
Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned include crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyltaurate) .
Examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the invention that may be mentioned include:
-copolymers of AMPS and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant (CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;
-copolymers of AMPS and of sodium acrylate, for instance  AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) ;
-copolymers of AMPS and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60) .
The preferred polymers are more particularly optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for instance that sold by the company Clariant under the name Hostacerin
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000007
(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) .
According to one particularly preferred form of the invention, the AMPS polymer or copolymer will be used in powder form.
According to one particular embodiment of the invention, acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer used in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffin/Laureth-7) or the copolymer used in the commercial product sold under the trade name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC, are excluded from the definition of the present water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers, thus from the definition of the present AMPS polymers.
The AMPS polymer accounts for from 0.1 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.5 wt %to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
Extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae
The composition of the present invention comprises an extract of a  plant in the family Paeoniaceas.
According to the present invention, the extract is obtained from a naturally grown part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit and rhizome, more preferably root) and a cultivated part (preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of cells, tissues, organs and whole plant) of the plant.
The plant in the family Paeoniaceae is a plant of the Paeonia L. genus, preferably one or more selected from the group consisting of Paeonia lactiflora Pall., Paeonia anomala ssp. Veitchii (Lynch) D. Y. Hong, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews, Paeonia ostii T. Hong & J. X. Zhang, Paeonia rockii, Paeonia decomposita and Paeonia delavayi, and more preferably Paeonia lactiflora Pall.
The extract of the present invention can be obtained following the conventional methods. The root of plant was crushed and washed, then submit to an alcoholic extraction, the liquor parts were filter out and concentrated to centrifuge in order to removal impurity. The extracts were applied to a resin column, and eluting gradually by water and alcohol in order to get final extracts. This final extracts were concentrated and spray dried to obtain products. The extract may be treated in line with any conventional process.
It is preferred that the extract is paeonia lactiflora root extract.
In a preferred embodiment, the paeonia lactiflora root extract contains no less than 40%Paeoniflorin.
It is found that although the improved whitenning effect according to the present application is not determined by paeoniflorin, higher amount of paeoniflorin is preferred as far as the improved whitenning effect is considered.
The extract accounts for from 0.001 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
Compound of formula (I)
The present invention comprises at least a compound of formula (I) .
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000008
wherein:
R1 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl; R2 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl.
Preferably, R1 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl;
Preferably, R2 is selected from a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl.
More preferably, R1 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or a branched C1-C4 alkyl.
More preferably, R2 is selected from the group consisting of a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
Most preferably, R1 and R3 are hydrogen.
Most preferably, R2 is or ethyl.
According to a preferred embodiment, R1 and R3 are independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl group, linear or branched C3-C6 alkynyl group; R2 is selected from linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C6 alkenyl group.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R1 and R3 are  independently selected from hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl carbonyl, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl carbonyl, linear or branched C1-C4, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl group, linear or branched C3-C4 alkynyl group; R2 is selected from linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group, linear or branched C2-C4 alkenyl group.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R1 and R3 is hydrogen, R2 is ethyl.
Most preferably, the compound of formula (I) is 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid.
Compound of formula (I) is commercial available or can be synthesized by known method in the art.
The compound of the formula (I) accounts for from 0.001 wt % to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt % to 3 wt %, more preferably from 0.1 wt % to 3 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
Compound of formula (II)
The present invention comprises at least a compound of formula (II).
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000009
wherein:
R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl;
R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl.
Preferably, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a  linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl.
Preferably, R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl.
More preferably, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
More preferably, R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
Most preferably, R4 is hydrogen.
Most preferably, one of R5 and R6 is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
According to a preferred embodiment, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl; R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl; R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R4 is selected from the group consisting of hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl; R5 and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl.
According to a further preferred embodiment, R4 is hydrogen, R5 is methyl and R6 is hydrogen.
According to an embodiment, compound of formula (II) is selected from linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl ester of ferulic acid.
According to an embodiment, R4 is selected from ethyl and isooctyl, R5 and R6 are hydrogen.
Most preferably, the compound of formula (II) is ferulic acid.
Compound of formula (II) is commercial available or can be  synthesized by known method in the art.
According to an embodiment, the compound of the formula (II) accounts for from 0.001 wt %to 5 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 1 wt %, more preferably from 0.05 wt %to 0.5 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
According to an embodiment of the invention, the compound of formula (I) and the compound of formula (II) may be used in combination at any ratio therebetween. In this case, the compound of formula (I) and the compound of formula (II) in total may account for from 0.002 wt %to 10 wt %, preferably from 0.01 wt %to 5 wt %, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
Aqueous phase
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises at least water.
According to the invention, the amount of aqueous phase can range from 1%to 90%by weight, especially from 5%to 85%and more particularly from 10%to 80%, with respect to the total weight of the composition. This amount depends on the formulation form of the composition desired. The amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50%by weight and better still at least 60%by weight.
The aqueous phase can comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
When the composition in accordance with the invention is provided in the form of an emulsion, the emulsions generally comprise at least one  emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W) .
The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material ranging from 0.1 wt %to 20 wt %, preferably from 0.5 wt %to 15 wt %, more preferably 1 wt %to 10 wt %, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
Mention may be made, for the W/O emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning or the oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt. One or more coemulsifiers can also be added thereto. The coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, for the O/W emulsions, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene  glycol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made, as glyceryl ester of fatty acid, of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di-and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and their mixtures.
Mention may in particular be made, as polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid, of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di-and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate) , polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE) .
Mention may be made, as fatty alcohol ethers, for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol) . Mention may be made, for example, of ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and their mixtures.
Mention may be made, as examples of sugar mono-or polyalkyl esters or ethers, of methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by Degussa Goldschmidt, or else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by Croda, and sucrose stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
Mention may also be made of lipoamino acids and their salts, such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, such as, for example,  monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-11PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21P, by Ajinomoto.
Co-emulsifiers, for instance fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetearyl alcohol) , octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol, may be added to these emulsifiers. 
Fatty phase
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and/or solid fatty phase.
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an emulsion.
In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below.
The term “oil” means any fatty substance that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and at atmospheric pressure.
A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 1%to 90%, in particular from 5%to 80%, in particular from 10%to 70%and more particularly from 20%to 50%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term ″non-volatile oil″ means an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg/cm2/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or of oil mixture to be tested are placed in a crystallizing dish 7 cm in diameter, which is placed  on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 that is temperature-regulated, at a temperature of 25℃, and hygrometry-regulated, at a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring it, while providing ventilation by means of a fan (Papst-Motoren, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, 20 cm away from the bottom of the crystallizing dish. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per unit of area (cm2) and per unit of time (minutes) .
The term ″volatile oil″ means any non-aqueous medium that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a cosmetic volatile oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-O group.
The term “fluoro oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term “hydrocarbon-based oil” means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
Adjuvants
The composition according to the invention may further comprise adjuvants commonly used in the envisaged application field.
Mentions may be made of waxes, pigments, fillers, colorants, additional surfactants, additional emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers; additional  cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV-screening agents, additional polymers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, additional thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, bactericides, ceramides, odour absorbers, antioxidants.
These additional adjuvants may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.001%to 80%by weight and especially from 0.1%to 40%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Depending on their nature, these adjuvants may be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase of the composition, or into lipid vesicles.
In any case, these adjuvants, and the proportions thereof, will be chosen by a person skilled in the art such that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
Galenic form
This composition may be in any galenic form normally used in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical field, and especially in the form of an optionally gelled aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, a dispersion, optionally a two-phase dispersion, of the lotion type, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion (for example W/O/W or O/W/O) , an aqueous gel, a dispersion of oil in an aqueous phase with the aid of spherules, these spherules possibly being polymer nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better still, lipid vesicles of ionic and/or nonionic type; aqueous or oily gels. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
According to this invention, a composition in the form of an emulsion, especially an oil-in-water emulsion, is preferably used.
The composition may be more or less fluid and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a gel or a mousse. It may optionally be applied in aerosol form. It may also be in solid form, in particular in the form of a stick.
Method and use
The composition of the present invention can be prepared according to the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art. Specifically, the composition of the present invention can be prepared by a method comprising mixing (A) the at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) the at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) the at least one whitening agent, and adjusting the resultant till a pH value of 5 or less is reached.
The composition used according to the invention may constitute a skincare composition, and especially a cleansing, protecting, medicated or care cream for the face, the hands, the feet, the major anatomical folds or the body (for example day creams, night creams, makeup-removing creams, foundation creams or antisun creams) ; a fluid foundation, a makeup-removing milk, a protective or care body milk or an antisun milk; a skincare lotion, gel or mousse, such as a cleansing lotion.
According to one aspect of the present invention, there is provided a (non-therapeutic) cosmetic process for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone comprising application of the oil-in-water emulsified composition according to the present invention to the skin.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term ″about″ .
Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible.
Throughout the description, including the claims, the term ″comprising a″ should be understood as being synonymous with ″comprising at least one″ , unless otherwise mentioned.
The terms ″between... and... ″ and ″ranging from... to... ″ should be understood as being inclusive of the limits, unless otherwise specified.
The examples that follow will enable the invention to be understood more clearly, without, however, being limiting in nature. The amounts indicated are weight percentages, unless otherwise mentioned.
Examples
Example 1: formulation examples
The following formulas were prepared (inv fla stands for invention formula, and compa fla stands for comparative formula) .
Table 1
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000011
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000012
The above mentioned examples were prepared following the steps of:
1) using the homogenizer VMI sold by the company i-Tech, mixing and heating the ingredients of Phase A at 75℃ for 10 min, stirring until totally solubilized;
2) using the homogenizer VMI sold by the company i-Tech, mixing and heating the ingredients of Phase B at 75℃ for 20 min until totally homogeneous, then introducing Phase B to Phase A, stirring for 10 min;
3) cooling the resultant mixture of 2) down to 55 ℃, then introducing thereto the ingredient of Phase C, stirring for 10 min, then cooling down to the room temperature;
4) using the homogenizer VMI sold by the company i-Tech, introducing the ingredients of Phase D into the resultant mixture of 3) at the room temperature and stirring for 20min; and
5) adjusting the resultant mixture of 4) to the predetermined pH value of Table 1.
Example 2: Evaluation examples
The stability of the invention and comparative formulas prepared in the Example 1 were evaluated. The results were listed in Table 2.
The stabilities of the invention formulas and the comparative formulas after 24 hours were observed by leaving the examples at room temperature for 24 hours.
The stability tests of the invention formulas and the comparative  formulas at 40℃, 45℃, and the room temperature (RT) for two months were conducted using Binder oven (USA) , by leaving the invention and comparative formulas in the oven for 2 months. The color and smell of each example were observed.
The stability tests at 4℃ stability for two months were conducted using Zhongke Meiling refrigerator (YC-260L, China) , by leaving the invention and comparative formulas in the refrigerator for 2 months.
The sun stability tests for 24 hours were conducted using ATLAC (AMETEK Measurement and Calibration Technologies) .
It is considered that the example is stable if the color or smell has no change, or slight change.
Table 2
Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-000013
It is observed from the result above, that the invention formulas 1 to 2  possess much better stabilities, i.e., less unpleasant smell, and less color evolution when exposure to the sun and/or elevated temperatures, comparing to the comparative formulas 1 and 2.
Besides, the invention formula 1 and 2 have very good whitening effect, when applied on the face.

Claims (15)

  1. An oil-in-water emulsified composition, having a pH value of 5 or less and comprising (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent chosen from i) a compound of formula (I) , preferably 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) a compound of formula (II) , preferably ferulic acid, or iii) a combination thereof,
    Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-100001
    wherein, R1 and R3 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 acyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl carbonyl, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, more preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, most preferably hydrogen; R2 is selected from a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20alkynyl, preferably a linear or branched C1-C10alkyl, more preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl or ethyl,
    Figure PCTCN2014094630-appb-100002
    wherein, R4 is selected from hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl (preferably a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl) , more  preferably hydrogen; Rs and R6 are different from or identical to each other, independently selected from hydrogen, a linear or branched C1-C20 alkyl, a linear or branched C2-C20 alkenyl and a linear or branched C2-C20 alkynyl, preferably selected from hydrogen and a linear or branched C1-C10 alkyl, preferably a linear or branched C1-C4alkyl; preferably one of Rs and R6is methyl and the other is hydrogen.
  2. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is obtained from i) a naturally grown part of the plant, preferably leaf, stem, root, flower, fruit, rhizome or a combination thereof, more preferably root, ii) a cultivated part of the plant, preferably cells, tissues, organs, whole plant or a combination thereof, or iii) a combination thereof.
  3. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the plant in the family Paeoniaceae is a plant of the Paeonia L. genus, preferably at least one plant chosen from Paeonia lactiflora Pall. , Paeonia anomala ssp. Veitchii (Lynch) D. Y. Hong, Paeonia suffruticosa Andrews, Paeonia ostii T. Hong&J. X. Zhang, Paeonia rockii, Paeonia decomposita or Paeonia delavayi, more preferably Paeonia lactiflora Pall.
  4. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid is chosen from i) an optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer, ii) an optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid copolymer, or iii) a mixture thereof, preferably an optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid homopolymer.
  5. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it has a pH value ranging from 4 to 5, preferably ranging from 4 to 4.5.
  6. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract accounts for  from 0.001 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt%to 3wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  7. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) accounts for from 0.001 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt%to 3 wt%, more preferably from 0.1 wt%to 3 wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  8. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the compound of formula (II) accounts for from 0.001 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt%to 1 wt%, more preferably from 0.05 wt%to 0.5 wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  9. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) and the compound of formula (II) in total account for from 0.002 wt%to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.01 wt%to 5 wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  10. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid accounts for from 0.1 wt%to 5 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt%to 3 wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  11. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, further comprising at least one emulsifier, which accounts for from 0.1 wt%to 20 wt%, preferably from 0.5 wt%to 15 wt%, more preferably 1 wt%to 10 wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  12. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, further comprising an aqueous phase, which accounts for from 1wt%to 90wt%, preferably from 5wt%to 85wt%and more preferably from 10wt%to 80wt%, of the total weight of the oil-in-water emulsified composition.
  13. The oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 12, not comprising acrylamide/sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers and/or polyacrylamides.
  14. A cosmetic method for preventing or decreasing skin pigmentation and/or lightening skin tone comprising applying to the skin the oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1to 13.
  15. A method for preparing the oil-in-water emulsified composition according to any one of the preceding claims 1 to 13, comprising mixing (A) at least one polymer derived from 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid, (B) at least one extract of a plant in the family Paeoniaceae, and (C) at least one whitening agent chosen from i) acompound of formula (I) as defined in claim 1, preferably 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid, ii) acompound of formula (II) as defined in claim 1, preferably ferulic acid, or iii) a combination thereof, and adjusting the resultant till a pH value of 5 or less is reached.
PCT/CN2014/094630 2014-12-23 2014-12-23 An oil-in-water emulsified composition WO2016101135A1 (en)

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FR3113590A1 (en) 2020-08-31 2022-03-04 L'oreal COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

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CN113041189A (en) * 2021-03-19 2021-06-29 李雪云 Antioxidant moisturizing essence body lotion and preparation method thereof

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JP2013227264A (en) * 2012-04-27 2013-11-07 Mikimoto Pharmaceut Co Ltd External preparation for skin
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WO2014111571A1 (en) * 2013-01-21 2014-07-24 L'oreal Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion comprising a merocyanine and an emulsifying system containing an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit

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FR2795083A1 (en) * 1999-06-18 2000-12-22 Oreal COMPOSITION CONTAINING A HYDROPHILIC ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND ITS USE IN COSMETICS
JP2013227264A (en) * 2012-04-27 2013-11-07 Mikimoto Pharmaceut Co Ltd External preparation for skin
US20140155633A1 (en) * 2012-11-30 2014-06-05 Corum Inc. Composition for Stabilizing Ascorbic Acid Derivatives and the Application Thereof
WO2014111571A1 (en) * 2013-01-21 2014-07-24 L'oreal Cosmetic or dermatological emulsion comprising a merocyanine and an emulsifying system containing an amphiphilic polymer comprising at least one 2-acrylamidomethylpropanesulfonic acid unit

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FR3113590A1 (en) 2020-08-31 2022-03-04 L'oreal COMPOSITION FOR CARE OF KERATINOUS MATERIALS

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