WO2006008427A2 - Make-up set which is intended for semi-permanent tattooing - Google Patents
Make-up set which is intended for semi-permanent tattooing Download PDFInfo
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- WO2006008427A2 WO2006008427A2 PCT/FR2005/050586 FR2005050586W WO2006008427A2 WO 2006008427 A2 WO2006008427 A2 WO 2006008427A2 FR 2005050586 W FR2005050586 W FR 2005050586W WO 2006008427 A2 WO2006008427 A2 WO 2006008427A2
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- NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium polyacrylate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C=C NNMHYFLPFNGQFZ-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- AXMCIYLNKNGNOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N sodium;3-[[4-[(4-dimethylazaniumylidenecyclohexa-2,5-dien-1-ylidene)-[4-[ethyl-[(3-sulfophenyl)methyl]amino]phenyl]methyl]-n-ethylanilino]methyl]benzenesulfonate Chemical compound [Na+].C=1C=C(C(=C2C=CC(C=C2)=[N+](C)C)C=2C=CC(=CC=2)N(CC)CC=2C=C(C=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C=CC=1N(CC)CC1=CC=CC(S(O)(=O)=O)=C1 AXMCIYLNKNGNOT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N trans-isorenieratene Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/c1c(C)ccc(C)c1C)C=CC=C(/C)C=Cc2c(C)ccc(C)c2C ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D34/00—Containers or accessories specially adapted for handling liquid toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. perfumes
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D44/00—Other cosmetic or toiletry articles, e.g. for hairdressers' rooms
- A45D44/002—Masks for cosmetic treatment of the face
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A45—HAND OR TRAVELLING ARTICLES
- A45D—HAIRDRESSING OR SHAVING EQUIPMENT; EQUIPMENT FOR COSMETICS OR COSMETIC TREATMENTS, e.g. FOR MANICURING OR PEDICURING
- A45D40/00—Casings or accessories specially adapted for storing or handling solid or pasty toiletry or cosmetic substances, e.g. shaving soaps or lipsticks
- A45D40/30—Masks for marking lips or eyelashes
Definitions
- the present invention relates to the field of makeup with a long-lasting effect and aims in particular to provide a make-up set for semi-permanent tattoos.
- this makeup technique has the disadvantage of not being totally devoid of any risk of toxicity and / or allergy, risk accentuated by its invasiveness.
- An alternative to this permanent tattoo makeup technique makes use of the ability of certain natural substances, such as for example henna or walnut that when applied to the surface of the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, provide an extended dyeing effect on a scale of several weeks.
- the present invention specifically aims to provide a make-up effect with long-term effect but advantageously free of the aforementioned drawbacks.
- the subject of the invention is a make-up set intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound at a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the invention also relates to a make-up set for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- composition disposed within said container having a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 Pa. s and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
- the subject of the present invention is a makeup assembly intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: a container,
- the present invention relates to a set of makeup for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- composition disposed within said container, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound and at least one compound capable of modulating the self-tanning reaction.
- the subject of the invention is a make-up set intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound, and
- the container may be compartmentalized.
- certain components of the makeup composition such as the self-tanning compound, can be isolated in separate compartments so as to guarantee them better stability over time and better self-tanning or coloring reactivity at the time of application.
- the compartments can advantageously be placed in communication with each other just before use to allow the extemporaneous mixing of all the compounds of said makeup composition.
- Such a packaging makes it possible, for example, to keep the so-called self-tanning compound at a given pH, for example dihydroxyacetone at a pH of the order of 5, and then to bring it to a basic pH, that is to say greater than 7, when mixing with a base at the time of application.
- the container and the application means may be integral or independent of one another.
- the container and the application means are part of a device of the sprayer type.
- the assembly according to the invention may further comprise means delimiting at least one determined pattern appropriate to the application of the composition.
- these means may be in the form of part (s), such as cuts, patterns, or friezes, and in particular be of the stencil type.
- These means may, in another variant, be an integral part of the application means. It can thus be a set of makeup comprising at least one self-tanning type compound packaged in a device suitable for the application of said compound in the form of prefixed patterns.
- this assembly can be in the form of a sprayer, especially of the spray type, provided with a stencil-type nozzle making it possible, for example, to obtain patterns of the grid-like type, peas, flowers, lettering characters. writing, lace.
- a protective band may be applied, after spraying or spreading the composition comprising the so-called self-tanning compound at the level of the skin to be made up, so as to maintain a partial occlusion during the rise of the coloration and allow the user to cover the skin of his clothes or underwear without altering the patterns.
- This protective band may for example be made of a slightly absorbent paper, for example Kleenex ® type.
- the subject of the invention is a makeup kit comprising a first and at least a second cosmetic composition, different from each other, the first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a so-called self-tanning compound, and the second composition being able to modify, in particular to increase or decrease, the persistence of the coloration, the intensity of the color or the hue, at the level of the colored effect provided on the surface masked by the first composition.
- the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup patch for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
- the presentation in the form of a patch can make it possible to deposit compositions of homogeneous concentration of self-tanning compound (s) or heterogeneous concentrations according to predetermined patterns, such as, for example, gradients, or random patterns, such as mottling.
- the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup stick for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
- the stick or solid bread of the make-up composition is generally packaged in a dispensing container.
- This dispensing container may be provided with means for removing the stick from the container, for use, and retract it after use.
- the subject of the invention is a semi-permanent makeup process for a support chosen from the skin, in particular the scalp, the lips and the integuments, comprising the application, on the surface to be made up of of a composition packaged in a set, kit, patch, stick or makeup device according to the invention.
- the subject of the invention is the use of at least one so-called self-tanning compound to make it possible to obtain a makeup composition of the semi-permanent tattoo type.
- a "make-up set for semi-permanent tattooing” designates an assembly capable of providing a make-up with a significantly prolonged hold over time compared with conventional make-up compositions, but which nevertheless remains temporary as opposed to permanent makeup compositions that have a quasi-irreversible effect.
- the set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention are advantageous for several reasons.
- the makeup effect they provide can be interrupted at any time by the user.
- the self-tanning compounds they contain have a satisfactory safety for users.
- stencils or patches also offers the user a wide range of tattoo patterns. These stencils or patches may be adhesive or not.
- the term "so-called self-tanning compound” is intended to mean any compound having a particular affinity for the skin and capable of conferring on the skin a durable, non-covering coloration, that is to say not having tendency to opacify the skin, which can not be removed with water or with a conventional solvent such as alcohol, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, ether, glycols, and resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants or soaps, or with fatty substances.
- Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided by a conventional makeup composition.
- self-tanning compounds such as mono- or poly-carbonyl compounds.
- DHA dihydroxyacetone
- the self-tanning compound is dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or a derivative thereof.
- the concentration of self-tanning compound is adjusted to provide the expected color makeup effect. It is understood that this concentration is likely to vary significantly depending on the nature of the self-tanning compound considered and the clarity of the skin, mucosa or superficial body growths. For skin, color or complexion can be expressed by the Fitzpatrick classification.
- the self-tanning compound may be present in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 15% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 20% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 25% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 30% by weight, or greater than or equal to 40% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 50% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 60% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 70% by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 80% by weight, weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions such as powders, comprising at least 95% by weight, especially at least 98% by weight, or even at least 99% by weight of self-tanning compound (s) relative to the total weight of the composition , are also likely to be suitable for the invention.
- the self-tanning compound is used at a content of less than or equal to 60% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 50% by weight, or even less than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 30% by weight, and most preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- compositions of the kit, set, stick and makeup patch according to the invention also have a viscosity adjusted to allow easy deposition, rapid drying and obtaining a makeup having good holding properties, especially in terms of non-migration or fixation on an area of skin or non-horizontal dander and likely to undergo movement during the drying period.
- the compositions advantageously have a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 Pa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 10 Pa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 15 Pa.s, or even greater than or equal to 20 Pa.s.
- the viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure using a Rheomat RM 180 type viscometer equipped with a rotating rotor such that the measurement is carried out at the speed gradient 200 s "1.
- Those skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the mobile MS-3 and MS-4 on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to perform the measurement of the viscosity of the composition tested .
- This viscosity is generally adjusted by the presence of one or more gelling agents in the makeup composition according to the invention.
- This gelling agent which is generally water-soluble, may especially be chosen from: proteins, such as proteins of plant origin,
- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers
- modified celluloses such as the modified hydroxyethylcellulose cetyl chain, such as Natrosol plus ® sold by the company Hercules;
- polymers of natural origin possibly modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, and
- ⁇ their mixtures may also be synthetic homo- or co-polymers, in particular deriving from acrylic and methacrylic acids, for example homopolymers of cross-linked ethyl-trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, and in particular that marketed by the company CIBA in emulsion.
- acrylic and methacrylic acids for example homopolymers of cross-linked ethyl-trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, and in particular that marketed by the company CIBA in emulsion.
- AMPS sodium salt
- the gelling agent may also be hydrophobic, such as, for example, polyoxyethylenes, crosslinked silicones and grafted amines. Hydrophobic gelling agents may very well be found, where appropriate, in a hydrophobic fraction of the composition.
- a composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one gelling agent as defined above, or a mixture thereof.
- the gelling agent content is generally adjusted to provide the compositions of makeup sets according to the invention the qualities required in terms of application. It can of course vary significantly depending on the chemical nature of the gelling agent.
- the gelling agent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially at a content ranging from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and in particular at a content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the gelling agent may be present in a composition according to the invention or a content ranging from 3 to 10% by weight, especially in a content ranging from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.
- the gelling agent may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- a gelling agent that is suitable for the implementation of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the homopolymer of a crosslinked ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, such as for example that marketed by CIBA. in inverse emulsion in mineral oil under the name SALCARE SC 95, and polyacrylic acid.
- the homopolymeric gelling agent of ethyl methacrylate trimethyltinammonium chloride crosslinked such as for example that marketed by CIBA in inverse emulsion in mineral oil under the name SALCARE SC 95 may be particularly suitable.
- SALCARE SC 95 ethyl methacrylate trimethyltinammonium chloride crosslinked
- the weight ratio between the self-tanning agent and the gelling agent may, in particular, vary from 5: 1 to 1: 5, in particular from 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular from 2: 1 to 1: 2, and more particularly from 1: 1.
- compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more dyestuffs and / or additional compounds.
- the makeup assembly according to the invention may further comprise a compound capable of modulating the self-tanning reaction and thus of conditioning a particular aesthetic effect.
- a self-tanning compound such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) may be affected by the simultaneous presence of certain nitrogen compounds and / or ionized metals.
- the compositions according to the invention using as a self-tanning compound dihydroxyacetone or derivative will advantageously be free of amounts of nitrogen compounds, especially amino acids, and / or ionized metals, their derivatives and / or or their salts, likely to lead to degradation of DHA, especially during the preservation of the product.
- compounds capable of interfering with DHA so as to modify the Maillard reaction leading to the self-tanning effect and in particular to accentuate it, can be associated.
- This complementary or synergistic effect of the staining with DHA can be expressed in terms of modulation, preferentially of accentuation of the intensity of the color or of the modulation of the kinetics of the coloring reaction, preferably the acceleration of the " the increase in color and the slowing of its elimination, that is, the prolongation of the persistence of the coloring.
- amino acids such as glycine, in particular basic amino acids, such as lysine or histidine, oligopeptides, peptides, glycopeptides, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lauroyl lysine, their derivatives, and their associations with metals.
- at least one dyestuff it may be advantageous for several reasons.
- the self-tanning compound considered is not itself colored, it may be advantageous for the user to be able to control visually the deposition of the makeup composition through the presence of this coloring matter.
- a relay system by conferring a first immediate color effect, which, progressively (generally 2 to 8 hours), will be replaced by a second persistent color effect, due to the self-tanner.
- These two colored effects may be of identical hue or not.
- a coloring material may impart to the skin or integuments a different color during the first hours of what it will become during the rise of the self-tanner, thus giving the makeup pattern a "living", evolutionary appearance, metamorphosing over time.
- This dyestuff may in particular be chosen from organic or mineral pigments, nacres and dyes, water-soluble or fat-soluble, natural or artificial, usually used in cosmetics.
- pigments it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition, the skin, the mucous membranes or integuments.
- nacres it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell from fish scales, iridescent natural minerals (mica, metal particles) or synthesized, such as composite particles. These fillers and nacres serve in particular to modify the color of the composition.
- the pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like.
- chromium hydrate subject to their compatibility with the self-tanning compound under consideration.
- DPP diketo pyrrolopyrrole
- the nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
- the pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
- the composition may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01 to 6% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the natural or synthetic liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, carotenoids, lycopene, palm oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, orange DC 5, yellow quinoline, annatto.
- the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.
- the dyes can still be chosen from anthocyanins of flowers or fruits or their derivatives, flavonoids and tannins extracted from native or fermented plants, juglone, lawsone, caramel, extracts of fermented soy, seaweed, mushrooms , microorganisms.
- the makeup compositions according to the invention may contain one or more additional compounds which do not in themselves satisfy the dyestuff qualification but which nevertheless are capable of providing a complementary effect. at the level of the make-up effect obtained using the self-tanning compound. In the event that these compounds could affect the stability of the DHA, they are then kept in a separate compartment and mixed extemporaneously.
- Such an effect can for example consist in the creation: a hue effect at the level of the homogeneous color due to the self-tanning compound.
- compounds of this type mention may in particular be made of the amino acids, in particular basic amino acids, the peptides, and ionized metals already mentioned above for their reactivity, in particular with respect to DHA, or of an effect of gloss with the aid of compounds of the hydrocarbon type, silicone gels, varnishes, waxes and / or flakes, or of a dullness effect, for example with the aid of a compound such as, for example, starch, talc , silica, laponites, clays or their derivatives, or of a "soft focus" type optical effect, for example in order to camouflage the defects of the wrinkles, spots, scars, pimples, blackheads, rosacea, stretch marks, Orange peel.
- Such an effect can in particular be obtained with exemplary microspheres of nylon (Orgasol ® ) or silica, and / or an effect of change of the texture or of the surface state, of the relief, of the grain or of the touch of the skin (tensors, smooth, granular or fibrous films, waxes / adhesive pastes, flocking).
- exemplary microspheres of nylon Orgasol ®
- silica an effect of change of the texture or of the surface state, of the relief, of the grain or of the touch of the skin (tensors, smooth, granular or fibrous films, waxes / adhesive pastes, flocking).
- the so-called self-tanning compound may also be combined with at least one active care, protection and / or prevention, such as for example, agents capable of conferring protection against UV, antioxidants, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory, cicatrizing, depigmenting, vasculoprotective, anti-rosacea, anti-stretch marks, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, firming, moisturizing, nourishing, sebo-regulating, stimulants capillaries, antifungals.
- active care, protection and / or prevention such as for example, agents capable of conferring protection against UV, antioxidants, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory, cicatrizing, depigmenting, vasculoprotective, anti-rosacea, anti-stretch marks, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, firming, moisturizing,
- compositions according to the invention may especially be suitable for masking permanent or transient imperfections, such as pimples, acne, scars, telangiectasia, rosacea, varicose veins, spots, wrinkles, stretch marks, rosacea, hematomas, vitiligo, pregnancy masks, lupus erythematosus, Pityriasis versicolor, ruby spots, naevi, lentigo angiomas, freckles, eczematiform or psoriatic plaques. They may also be suitable for treating these imperfections.
- permanent or transient imperfections such as pimples, acne, scars, telangiectasia, rosacea, varicose veins, spots, wrinkles, stretch marks, rosacea, hematomas, vitiligo, pregnancy masks, lupus erythematosus, Pityriasis versicolor, ruby spots, naevi, lentigo an
- compositions according to the invention may further contain a vector-type agent promoting the penetration, targeting and / or fixation of the self-tanning compound to certain cell or tissue structures.
- a vector-type agent promoting the penetration, targeting and / or fixation of the self-tanning compound to certain cell or tissue structures.
- it may be a self-heating compound, or vasodilator, such as nicotinates, spirulina extract, a modifying compound, in particular increasing or stimulating skin gas exchange, or a compound acting on the skin.
- a buffer medium or an agent stimulating the proteolysis reactions such as for example calcium, stimulators of hydrolysis of filagrin, MMPl (methyl metalloproteinases), sulfonic compounds, for example hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, terephthalene dicamphor sulfonic acid, acids and ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxy acids, such as for example salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid.
- chemical or enzymatic such as for example calcium
- stimulators of hydrolysis of filagrin MMPl (methyl metalloproteinases)
- sulfonic compounds for example hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, terephthalene dicamphor sulfonic acid, acids and ⁇ - and ⁇ -hydroxy acids, such as for example salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid.
- DHA it may more particularly be a compound capable of directing the molecule towards amino peptide or protein targets capable of strongly combining with a Maillard reaction.
- compositions according to the invention generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
- physiologically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, lips and / or integuments of human beings.
- the physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged.
- this physiologically acceptable medium is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the self-tanner considered. Thus, it may be of an aqueous, oily, emulsified or non-emulsified nature, of the gel, solid, compact or powdery type.
- compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of a powder, to be diluted extemporaneously in a liquid vehicle at the time of application.
- This liquid vehicle may for example be an exogenous liquid such as water or a secretory fluid such as saliva or sweat secretions.
- it may be advantageous to favor the choice of a solvent or mixture of solvents capable of evaporating rapidly, so as to allow rapid fixation of the makeup and to limit even more effectively any phenomenon of migration to the application of said composition.
- the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
- This may consist essentially of water or comprise a mixture of water and at least one water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, glycerin, their polymers, condensation products and derivatives.
- This aqueous phase may also comprise one or more sugars.
- This aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging for example from 5 to 99% by weight, and especially from 75 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). It may in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil or a mixture thereof.
- volatile oil means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
- the volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 mmHg to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa). at 40,000 Pa) and in particular ranging from 0.001 mm Hg (1.3 Pa) to 100 mm Hg (13000 Pa), and more particularly ranging from 0.01 to 10 mm Hg (1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa).
- the volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4). , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyls® ®, branched esters, C 8 -C 16 such as iso- neopentanoate hexyl, and mixtures thereof.
- Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Soit® by Shell, may also be used.
- volatile oils for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 mVs), and having in particular from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
- volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
- composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer.
- film-forming polymer it is more particularly possible to mention the water-soluble and water-dispersible film-forming polymers.
- composition according to the invention may also contain one or more surfactants present, in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 20% by weight, or even from 5 to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.
- This surfactant may be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants, as well as cationic surfactants.
- the self-tanning compounds may be packaged according to the invention in the form of a makeup set, and in particular a make-up kit, a makeup stick or a make-up patch.
- the self-tanning compound is formulated in a makeup composition as defined above and is associated with application means.
- application means are chosen so that they are suitable for depositing the makeup composition on the surface to be made up, and adapted to the container containing it and to the type of makeup desired.
- the application means may comprise an applicator element, which may be porous, for example fibrous, hairy, tabular, or in the form of a stick (as for applying traditional kohl).
- the application element may be chosen in particular from cotton tips, foam tips, felt tips, flocked tips, ceramic tips or a sintered material and pads.
- the application element may also be a brush, a comb or a brush, a sponge or a mousse, a fountain pen or a tubular point, a tampon, a hollow stem, in particular for application on the eyelashes, the eyebrows , hair or nails.
- the application element may, if necessary, have abrasive properties.
- composition it can be formulated in any form of container, generally selected to be compatible with the preparation and with the type of application means selected. It may especially be a container capable of constituting a reservoir for said composition, for example a tube.
- the swab may also be a swab type of packaging, or cotton hollow shaft rod, as described in the application FR 02 12155 and in particular two-component swab.
- some of the components of the makeup composition are packaged in separate compartments, for example arranged in the form of a tube, so as to guarantee them a prolonged stability.
- the swab may contain the self-tanner in the form of a powder dispersed in the cotton or foam head and its eluent (optionally comprising a color modulator), in the hollow stem, or, conversely, the self-tanner in the stem. and his eluent in the cotton or foam head.
- the compartments of such a packaging are put into communication with each other only at the moment of use of the make-up composition for allow the extemporaneous mixing of its ingredients before application.
- Such an assembly is generally suitable for single use.
- the makeup set may also be in the form of a spraying device.
- the composition according to the invention said first composition can be associated with one or more other compositions called second (s) composition (s).
- this kit may also be provided with one or more application means, dedicated or not, to the application of each of the compositions.
- a kit is particularly advantageous for associating a composition according to the invention, that is to say containing a self-tanning compound, with at least one second composition containing at least one active ingredient capable of acting at the level of the effect of makeup provided by the self-tanning compound applied to the makeup surface.
- this complementary effect can be very diverse in nature. It can result in amplification, inhibition, neutralization, modulation or reduction of the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound or by a relay effect with an immediate color effect or by a kinetic modulation of appearance or attenuation of the color on the skin or mucous membrane.
- this second composition can confer, to the colored appearance provided by the first composition, a complementary color effect.
- a complementary color effect can for example be obtained via at least one additional compound as defined above and / or at least one dyestuff.
- this second composition may comprise at least one active material, in particular capable of neutralizing the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound. According to this variant, it acts as a cleansing composition.
- the self-tanning compound present in the first composition is DHA
- the self-tanning compound may be packaged in the form of a patch.
- "Patch” is understood to mean a structure in the form of a sheet or sheet having one or more layers, comprising a matrix in which at least one self-tanning compound is incorporated, suitable, when the matrix is brought into contact with the skin, to have a action on the skin. At the end of a certain exposure time, the patch is removed. All or part of the compounds contained in the matrix has been transferred to the skin to the mucous membranes or integuments, in particular by evaporation or transfer.
- the matrix may comprise at least one gelling polymer selected from: celluloses, including modified celluloses, such as the modified hydroxyethylcellulose cetyl chain, such as Natrosol plus ® sold by the company Hercules, homopolymers chloride ethyl methacrylate trimethyl ammonium crosslinked, in particular by inverse emulsion in mineral oil such as that sold by Ciba under the trade name Salcare ® SC 95, - homopolymers polyacrylamidotauramide, particularly in the form of their sodium salt (AMPS), in particular in inverse emulsion, such as for example the Simulgel 800 ® marketed by the company SEPPIC and their mixtures.
- modified celluloses such as the modified hydroxyethylcellulose cetyl chain, such as Natrosol plus ® sold by the company Hercules
- homopolymers chloride ethyl methacrylate trimethyl ammonium crosslinked in particular by inverse emulsion in mineral oil such as that sold by
- the application time may vary to a large extent, and may range from a few seconds to several hours or a night.
- the matrix may be deposited on a support capable of promoting the manipulation thereof and / or possibly producing an occlusive or semi-occlusive barrier. This support can be fixed by an adhesive or a holding device to stay in place and allow the drawing of a pattern.
- the patch can protect the skin, the pattern and the product as they come into contact. It can also control the level of hydration during the self-tanning staining reaction (see article by B. Nguyen and I. Kochevar, British Journal of Dermatology, 2003, 149, 332-340), or change the temperature local, especially if it is associated with "self-heating", or compounds producing an exothermic reaction, or vasodilators.
- It may be an electrical or photoelectric patch for applying to the skin a potential difference capable of displacing amino acids, peptides or proteins according to an electrophoretic or iontophoretic effect. It may also be a patch provided with a solar collector may in particular allow to increase the temperature.
- the patch may also be a patch to be applied over a stencil, more or less impervious depending on the desired effect, itself maintained against the skin or the mucosa.
- the patch may be of the coated paper type, in particular as described in the French patent application FR 03 09301.
- This patch can be dry, hydrated or wet with a self-tanner thinner at the time of application.
- the diluent can either be supplied with the patch or provided directly by the user. It may for example be water, or a biological secretion of the user, such as saliva and sweat secretions.
- the patches according to the invention may also advantageously be in the form of stencils, buffers, which have the advantage of being preconditioned in terms of shapes to create original patterns on the surface to make up.
- it may be a double-sheet patch, between which is contained a separable liquid capsule, which is broken only at the time of application.
- the released liquid then impregnates the face of the patch located against the skin or mucosa.
- the self-tanning agent may be present either in the capsule or on the face of the patch located against the skin or the mucosa.
- the stencils may be in strips, friezes, for example in the form of a roll whose length is desired and that the user can position the areas to make up by selecting the length to be applied to obtain the custom decorative effect.
- the set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention can be used to make up the eyebrows, the eyelids, the contours of eyes, the lips, and in particular their contours. They also make it possible to obtain semi-permanent tattoos, for example on the body or on the face.
- the invention also relates to a makeup process comprising applying to the surface to be made up of a composition or self-tanning agent packaged in a set, kit, stick, spray or makeup patch according to the invention.
- the makeup process can also make it possible to obtain a pattern tattooed semi-permanently on the body or the face, the scalp, the integuments, the mucous membranes.
- the makeup process may furthermore comprise a preliminary exfoliation step, in particular a biological, chemical or mechanical step, aimed in particular at preparing the surface to be made up, in particular with a view to promoting the subsequent adhesion of the make-up composition.
- a preliminary exfoliation step in particular a biological, chemical or mechanical step, aimed in particular at preparing the surface to be made up, in particular with a view to promoting the subsequent adhesion of the make-up composition.
- the makeup process may also include a heating step, endogenous or exogenous. It may comprise a subsequent step of conventional (non-permanent) makeup, especially without transfer, or shading, especially with nacres or flakes.
- Example 1 Device compositions of the sprayer type
- a container comprising DHA, water and glycerin are added, the mixture is then stirred with a Bioblock type stirrer at 300 rpm for 10 minutes.
- the alcohol is then incorporated, homogenized, then the preservative and polymer mixture is added, stirring is continued at 1800 rpm and then stopped, and finally the mixture is homogenized using a spatula.
- the measurement of the torque necessary to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined is carried out with the aid of a submerged element rotating at a chosen and constant speed of 200 revolutions per minute.
- the apparatus used is marketed by the company METTLER under the name Rheomat RMl 80.
- the measurement is carried out with a product product to be analyzed-bucket-measuring body maintained at the set temperature of 25 ° C., and it is carried out after 10 minutes. minutes of rotation of the measuring body.
- the composition has a measured viscosity of 7.5 Pa.s.
- This composition has a viscosity of 7.9 Pa. S.
- Example 2 Composition intended to be applied to a nonwoven support to prepare a patch
- This composition is directly deposited on a non-woven support made of cellulose fibers, and packaged in a waterproof bag of varnished aluminum in unitary form.
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- Acyclic And Carbocyclic Compounds In Medicinal Compositions (AREA)
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Abstract
Description
Ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent La présente invention concerne le domaine du maquillage à effet prolongé dans le temps et vise notamment à proposer un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent. Aujourd'hui, il existe des techniques de maquillage, notamment de type tatouage, permettant d'obtenir des maquillages dits permanents, c'est à dire dont la tenue dans le temps est illimitée. Toutefois, cette irréversibilité peut précisément être dissuasive à l'égard des utilisateurs potentiels. En effet, la suppression de ce type de maquillage relève généralement d'une opération chirurgicale ou d'une intervention au laser laissant fréquemment des tissus cicatriciels. The present invention relates to the field of makeup with a long-lasting effect and aims in particular to provide a make-up set for semi-permanent tattoos. Today, there are makeup techniques, including tattoo type, to obtain so-called permanent makeup, that is to say, the behavior in time is unlimited. However, this irreversibility can be a deterrent to potential users. Indeed, the removal of this type of makeup is usually a surgical operation or a laser intervention frequently leaving scar tissue.
Par ailleurs, cette technique de maquillage a l'inconvénient de ne pas être totalement dénuée de tout risque de toxicité et/ou d'allergie, risque accentué par son caractère invasif.Moreover, this makeup technique has the disadvantage of not being totally devoid of any risk of toxicity and / or allergy, risk accentuated by its invasiveness.
En outre, l'application de ce type de maquillage ne peut généralement pas être effectuée directement par la personne désireuse de se maquiller. Elle requiert les services d'un spécialiste et nécessite plusieurs séances d'intervention souvent longues, coûteuses, voire douloureuses.In addition, the application of this type of makeup can not usually be done directly by the person wanting to wear makeup. It requires the services of a specialist and requires several sessions of intervention often long, expensive, even painful.
Enfin, en terme d'aspect, il est à noter que les tatouages permanents classiques ou traditionnels de longue durée sont toujours de couleur intense, très contrastés et ne se prêtent pas, la plupart du temps, aux motifs discrets et nuancés. Quant aux couleurs, elles peuvent, dans certains cas, évoluer de façon indésirable au cours du temps et ceci de manière irréversible.Finally, in terms of appearance, it should be noted that traditional permanent tattoos or traditional long-lasting are always intense color, very contrasted and do not lend themselves, mostly, to discrete patterns and nuanced. As for the colors, they can, in certain cases, evolve undesirably over time and this irreversibly.
Une alternative à cette technique de maquillage par tatouage permanent met à profit l'aptitude de certaines substances naturelles, comme par exemple le henné ou le brou de noix qui lorsqu'elles sont appliquées à la surface de la peau, des muqueuses ou des phanères, procurent un effet de teinture prolongé à l'échelle de plusieurs semaines.An alternative to this permanent tattoo makeup technique makes use of the ability of certain natural substances, such as for example henna or walnut that when applied to the surface of the skin, mucous membranes or integuments, provide an extended dyeing effect on a scale of several weeks.
Malheureusement, ce type de composés est également susceptible de provoquer des réactions allergiques et l'effet coloré qu'il procure ne peut pas non plus être interrompu prématurément. De plus, l'effacement lent et progressif de l'effet tatouage, qui se traduit par une altération progressive de la couleur d'origine, est souvent inesthétique. La présente invention a précisément pour objectif de proposer un ensemble de maquillage à effet prolongé dans le temps mais avantageusement exempt des inconvénients précités.Unfortunately, this type of compound is also likely to cause allergic reactions and the color effect it provides can not be interrupted prematurely either. In addition, the slow and gradual erasure of the tattoo effect, which results in a gradual deterioration of the original color, is often unsightly. The present invention specifically aims to provide a make-up effect with long-term effect but advantageously free of the aforementioned drawbacks.
Plus précisément, selon un de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent comprenant au moins :More precisely, according to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a make-up set intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- un récipient,- a container,
- des moyens d'application,means of application,
- une composition disposée au sein dudit récipient comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé dit autobronzant à une teneur supérieure ou égale à 15 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.- A composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound at a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a également pour objet un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent comprenant au moins :According to another of its aspects, the invention also relates to a make-up set for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- un récipient,- a container,
- des moyens d'application, et une composition disposée au sein dudit récipient, présentant une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 3 Pa. s et comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé dit autobronzant.- Application means, and a composition disposed within said container, having a viscosity greater than or equal to 3 Pa. s and comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
Selon un autre de ses aspects, la présente invention a pour objet un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent comprenant au moins : - un récipient,According to another of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a makeup assembly intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least: a container,
- des moyens d'application, etmeans of application, and
- une composition, disposée au sein dudit récipient, comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé autobronzant et au moins un agent gélifiant. Selon encore un autre des ses aspects, la présente invention se rapport à un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent comprenant au moins :a composition, disposed within said container, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound and at least one gelling agent. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a set of makeup for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- un récipient,- a container,
- des moyens d'application, etmeans of application, and
- une composition, disposée au sein dudit récipient, comprenant dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé autobronzant et au moins un composé capable de moduler la réaction autobronzante. Selon encore un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet un ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi-permanent comprenant au moins :- A composition, disposed within said container, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one self-tanning compound and at least one compound capable of modulating the self-tanning reaction. According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a make-up set intended for semi-permanent tattooing comprising at least:
- un récipient,- a container,
- des moyens d'application, - une composition disposée au sein dudit récipient comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé dit autobronzant, etmeans of application, a composition disposed within said container comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one so-called self-tanning compound, and
- des moyens délimitant au moins un motif déterminé, appropriés à l'application de ladite composition.means defining at least one determined pattern, suitable for applying said composition.
Dans une variante de réalisation, le récipient peut être compartimenté. Dans ce cas, certains composants de la composition de maquillage, comme par exemple le composé autobronzant, peuvent être isolés dans des compartiments séparés de manière à leur garantir une meilleure stabilité dans le temps et une meilleure réactivité autobronzante ou colorante au moment de l'application. Selon cette option, les compartiments peuvent avantageusement être mis en communication l'un avec l'autre juste avant utilisation pour permettre le mélange extemporané de l'ensemble des composés de ladite composition de maquillage. Un tel conditionnement permet par exemple de conserver le composé dit autobronzant à un pH donné, par exemple de la dihydroxyacétone à un pH de l'ordre de 5, puis de la porter à un pH basique, c'est-à-dire supérieur à 7, lors de son mélange avec une base au moment de l'application. Le récipient et les moyens d'application peuvent être solidaires ou indépendants l'un de l'autre.In an alternative embodiment, the container may be compartmentalized. In this case, certain components of the makeup composition, such as the self-tanning compound, can be isolated in separate compartments so as to guarantee them better stability over time and better self-tanning or coloring reactivity at the time of application. . According to this option, the compartments can advantageously be placed in communication with each other just before use to allow the extemporaneous mixing of all the compounds of said makeup composition. Such a packaging makes it possible, for example, to keep the so-called self-tanning compound at a given pH, for example dihydroxyacetone at a pH of the order of 5, and then to bring it to a basic pH, that is to say greater than 7, when mixing with a base at the time of application. The container and the application means may be integral or independent of one another.
Dans une variante, le récipient et les moyens d'application font partie d'un dispositif de type pulvérisateur.In a variant, the container and the application means are part of a device of the sprayer type.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l'ensemble selon l'invention peut comprendre en outre des moyens délimitant au moins un motif déterminé appropriés à l'application de la composition. Par exemple, ces moyens peuvent se présenter sous l'aspect de pièce(s), telles que découpes, motifs, ou frises, et notamment être de type pochoir.According to a particular embodiment, the assembly according to the invention may further comprise means delimiting at least one determined pattern appropriate to the application of the composition. For example, these means may be in the form of part (s), such as cuts, patterns, or friezes, and in particular be of the stencil type.
Ces moyens peuvent, selon une autre variante, faire partie intégrante des moyens d'application. II peut ainsi s'agir d'un ensemble de maquillage comprenant au moins un composé de type autobronzant conditionné dans un dispositif approprié à l'application dudit composé sous forme de motifs préfixés.These means may, in another variant, be an integral part of the application means. It can thus be a set of makeup comprising at least one self-tanning type compound packaged in a device suitable for the application of said compound in the form of prefixed patterns.
Selon ce mode de réalisation, cet ensemble peut se présenter sous la forme d'un pulvérisateur notamment de type spray muni d'une buse de type pochoir permettant, par exemple, d'obtenir des motifs du type quadrillage, pois, fleurs, caractères d'écriture, dentelles.According to this embodiment, this assembly can be in the form of a sprayer, especially of the spray type, provided with a stencil-type nozzle making it possible, for example, to obtain patterns of the grid-like type, peas, flowers, lettering characters. writing, lace.
On peut également envisager après application du composé dit autobronzant, par exemple dans une zone délimitée par le pochoir, d'appliquer sur cette zone une feuille occlusive pour protéger, voire accélérer la réaction autobronzante. Ainsi, une bande de protection peut être appliquée, après pulvérisation ou étalement de la composition comprenant le composé dit autobronzant au niveau de la peau à maquiller, de façon à maintenir une occlusion partielle pendant la montée de la coloration et permettre à l'utilisateur de couvrir la peau de ses vêtements ou sous-vêtements sans altérer les motifs dessinés. Cette bande de protection peut par exemple être constituée d'un papier légèrement absorbant, par exemple de type Kleenex®.It is also conceivable after application of said self-tanning compound, for example in an area defined by the stencil, to apply on this area an occlusive sheet to protect or even accelerate the self-tanning reaction. Thus, a protective band may be applied, after spraying or spreading the composition comprising the so-called self-tanning compound at the level of the skin to be made up, so as to maintain a partial occlusion during the rise of the coloration and allow the user to cover the skin of his clothes or underwear without altering the patterns. This protective band may for example be made of a slightly absorbent paper, for example Kleenex ® type.
Selon un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet un kit de maquillage comportant une première et au moins une seconde compositions cosmétiques, différentes l'une de l'autre, la première composition comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins un composé dit autobronzant, et la seconde composition étant apte à modifier, notamment à augmenter ou à diminuer, la rémanence de la coloration, l'intensité de la couleur ou la teinte, au niveau de l'effet coloré procuré sur la surface maquillée par la première composition.According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a makeup kit comprising a first and at least a second cosmetic composition, different from each other, the first composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least a so-called self-tanning compound, and the second composition being able to modify, in particular to increase or decrease, the persistence of the coloration, the intensity of the color or the hue, at the level of the colored effect provided on the surface masked by the first composition.
Selon encore un autre de ses aspects, l'invention concerne un patch de maquillage de type tatouage semi-permanent pour un support choisi parmi la peau, les lèvres et les phanères comprenant au moins un composé dit autobronzant.According to yet another of its aspects, the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup patch for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
La présentation sous forme de patch peut permettre de déposer des compositions de concentration homogène en composé(s) autobronzant(s) ou des concentrations hétérogènes selon des motifs prédéterminés, comme par exemple des dégradés, ou des motifs aléatoires, comme des marbrures. Selon encore un autre de ses aspects, l'invention concerne un stick de maquillage de type tatouage semi-permanent pour un support choisi parmi la peau, les lèvres et les phanères comprenant au moins un composé dit autobronzant.The presentation in the form of a patch can make it possible to deposit compositions of homogeneous concentration of self-tanning compound (s) or heterogeneous concentrations according to predetermined patterns, such as, for example, gradients, or random patterns, such as mottling. According to yet another of its aspects, the invention relates to a semi-permanent tattoo makeup stick for a support chosen from the skin, the lips and the integuments comprising at least one so-called self-tanning compound.
Selon cette variante, le stick ou encore pain solide de la composition de maquillage est généralement conditionné dans un récipient distributeur. Ce récipient distributeur peut être muni de moyens permettant de faire sortir le stick du récipient, en vue de son utilisation, et de l'y rétracter après usage.According to this variant, the stick or solid bread of the make-up composition is generally packaged in a dispensing container. This dispensing container may be provided with means for removing the stick from the container, for use, and retract it after use.
Selon un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet un procédé de maquillage semi-permanent d'un support choisi parmi la peau, notamment le cuir chevelu, les lèvres et les phanères, comprenant l'application, sur la surface à maquiller d'une composition conditionnée dans un ensemble, kit, patch, stick ou dispositif de maquillage selon l'invention.According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a semi-permanent makeup process for a support chosen from the skin, in particular the scalp, the lips and the integuments, comprising the application, on the surface to be made up of of a composition packaged in a set, kit, patch, stick or makeup device according to the invention.
Selon encore un autre de ses aspects, l'invention a pour objet l'utilisation d'au moins un composé dit autobronzant pour permettre l'obtention d'une composition de maquillage de type tatouage semi-permanent.According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is the use of at least one so-called self-tanning compound to make it possible to obtain a makeup composition of the semi-permanent tattoo type.
Au sens de l'invention, un « ensemble de maquillage destiné au tatouage semi- permanent » désigne un ensemble apte à procurer un maquillage doté d'une tenue dans le temps significativement prolongée comparativement aux compositions de maquillage classiques, mais demeurant néanmoins temporaire par opposition aux compositions de maquillage permanent qui ont un effet quasi-irréversible.For the purposes of the invention, a "make-up set for semi-permanent tattooing" designates an assembly capable of providing a make-up with a significantly prolonged hold over time compared with conventional make-up compositions, but which nevertheless remains temporary as opposed to permanent makeup compositions that have a quasi-irreversible effect.
Les ensemble, kit, stick et patch de maquillage selon l'invention, sont avantageux à plusieurs titres.The set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention are advantageous for several reasons.
Ils permettent d'obtenir un maquillage satisfaisant significativement prolongé dans le temps, c'est-à-dire ayant une tenue dans le temps de l'ordre de quelques jours, voire à l'échelle d'une ou deux semaines.They make it possible to obtain satisfactory makeup that is significantly prolonged in time, that is to say having a behavior in time of the order of a few days, or even at the scale of one or two weeks.
L'effet maquillé qu'ils procurent peut être interrompu à tout moment par l'utilisateur.The makeup effect they provide can be interrupted at any time by the user.
Ils permettent de contrôler avec précision l'application du maquillage sur la surface à maquiller et d'éviter ainsi tout phénomène de migration qui pourrait être préjudiciable sur le plan esthétique ainsi que les phénomènes de surcharges de matière risquant de devenir comédogène.They make it possible to precisely control the application of the makeup on the surface to be made up and thus avoid any phenomenon of migration which could be detrimental from the aesthetic point of view as well as the phenomena of overloading of material likely to become comedogenic.
Ils sont compatibles avec une auto-application. Les composés autobronzants qu'ils contiennent sont dotés d'une innocuité satisfaisante pour les utilisateurs.They are compatible with a self-application. The self-tanning compounds they contain have a satisfactory safety for users.
Ils permettent de dessiner des motifs précis, y compris des motifs de petites tailles, par exemple des lignes fines de largeur allant de 0,2 à 1 mm. Concernant ce dernier aspect, l'utilisation de pochoirs ou de patches offre en outre à l'utilisateur une large palette de motifs de tatouage. Ces pochoirs ou ces patches peuvent être adhésifs ou non.They make it possible to draw precise patterns, including patterns of small sizes, for example thin lines of width ranging from 0.2 to 1 mm. Regarding the latter aspect, the use of stencils or patches also offers the user a wide range of tattoo patterns. These stencils or patches may be adhesive or not.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « composé dit autobronzant », tout composé ayant une affinité particulière pour la peau et capable de conférer à cette dernière une coloration durable, non-couvrante c'est-à-dire n'ayant pas tendance à opacifier la peau, qui ne s'élimine ni à l'eau ni à l'aide d'un solvant classique tel que l'alcool, l'acétone, l'alcool isopropylique, l'éther, les glycols, et qui résiste à la fois au frottement et au lavage par une solution contenant des tensioactifs ou des savons, ou par des corps gras.For the purposes of the present invention, the term "so-called self-tanning compound" is intended to mean any compound having a particular affinity for the skin and capable of conferring on the skin a durable, non-covering coloration, that is to say not having tendency to opacify the skin, which can not be removed with water or with a conventional solvent such as alcohol, acetone, isopropyl alcohol, ether, glycols, and resists both rubbing and washing with a solution containing surfactants or soaps, or with fatty substances.
Une telle coloration durable se distingue donc de la coloration superficielle et momentanée apportée par une composition de maquillage conventionnelle.Such durable coloration is therefore distinguished from the superficial and momentary coloration provided by a conventional makeup composition.
Conviennent notamment à l'invention, les composés autobronzants comme les composés mono- ou poly-carbonylés.Particularly suitable for the invention, self-tanning compounds such as mono- or poly-carbonyl compounds.
A titre illustratif de ceux-ci, on peut plus particulièrement citer l'isatine, l'alloxane, la ninhydrine, le glycéraldéhyde, l'aldéhyde mésotartrique, le glutaraldéhyde, l'érythrulose, les dérivés de pyrazolin-4,5-diones, par exemple tels que décrits dans la demande de brevet FR 2 466 492 et WO 97/35842, les dérivés de 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin- 5-ones, notamment tels que décrits dans la demande de brevet EP 903 342, et la dihydroxyacétone (DHA) et ses dérivés.As an illustration of these, mention may be made more particularly of isatin, alloxane, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose, pyrazolin-4,5-dion derivatives, for example as described in the patent application FR 2,466,492 and WO 97/35842, the 4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-ones derivatives, in particular as described in the patent application EP 903 342, and dihydroxyacetone ( DHA) and its derivatives.
Selon une variante particulière, le composé autobronzant est de la dihydroxyacétone (DHA) ou un dérivé de celle-ci.According to a particular variant, the self-tanning compound is dihydroxyacetone (DHA) or a derivative thereof.
D'une manière générale, la concentration en composé autobronzant est ajustée pour procurer l'effet de maquillage coloré attendu. Il est entendu que cette concentration est susceptible de varier significativement selon la nature du composé autobronzant considéré et selon la clarté de la peau, de la muqueuse ou des phanères. Pour la peau, la couleur ou la carnation peut être exprimée par la classification de Fitzpatrick.In general, the concentration of self-tanning compound is adjusted to provide the expected color makeup effect. It is understood that this concentration is likely to vary significantly depending on the nature of the self-tanning compound considered and the clarity of the skin, mucosa or superficial body growths. For skin, color or complexion can be expressed by the Fitzpatrick classification.
Par exemple, le composé autobronzant peut être présent en une teneur supérieure ou égale à 2 % en poids, notamment supérieure ou égale à 5 % en poids, voire supérieure ou égale à 10 % en poids, voire supérieure ou égale à 15 % en poids, notamment supérieure ou égale à 20 % en poids, voire supérieure ou égale à 25 % en poids, notamment supérieure ou égale à 30 % en poids, voire supérieure ou égale à 40 % en poids, voire supérieure ou égale à 50 % en poids, notamment supérieure ou égale à 60 % en poids, en particulier supérieure ou égale à 70 % en poids, et plus particulièrement supérieure ou égale à 80 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.For example, the self-tanning compound may be present in a content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 5% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 10% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 15% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 20% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 25% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 30% by weight, or greater than or equal to 40% by weight, or even greater than or equal to 50% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 60% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 70% by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 80% by weight, weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Toutefois, on peut également envisager des formulations concentrées en composé dit autobronzant, par exemple susceptibles d'être diluées avant utilisation. Ainsi, des compositions, telles que des poudres, comprenant au moins 95 % en poids, notamment au moins 98 % en poids, voire au moins 99 % en poids de composé(s) autobronzant(s) par rapport au poids total de la composition, sont également susceptibles de convenir à l'invention.However, it is also possible to envisage concentrated formulations of said self-tanning compound, for example capable of being diluted before use. Thus, compositions, such as powders, comprising at least 95% by weight, especially at least 98% by weight, or even at least 99% by weight of self-tanning compound (s) relative to the total weight of the composition , are also likely to be suitable for the invention.
Généralement, le composé autobronzant est utilisé à une teneur inférieure ou égale à 60 % en poids, notamment inférieure ou égale à 50 % en poids, voire inférieure ou égale à 40 % en poids, en particulier inférieure ou égale à 30 % en poids, et tout particulièrement inférieure ou égale à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.Generally, the self-tanning compound is used at a content of less than or equal to 60% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 50% by weight, or even less than or equal to 40% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 30% by weight, and most preferably less than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Les compositions des ensemble, kit, stick et patch de maquillage selon l'invention, présentent en outre une viscosité ajustée pour permettre un dépôt aisé, un séchage rapide et l'obtention d'un maquillage présentant de bonnes propriétés de tenue, notamment en terme de non-migration ou de fixation sur une zone de peau ou de phanère non horizontale et susceptible de subir des mouvements lors de la période de séchage.The compositions of the kit, set, stick and makeup patch according to the invention also have a viscosity adjusted to allow easy deposition, rapid drying and obtaining a makeup having good holding properties, especially in terms of non-migration or fixation on an area of skin or non-horizontal dander and likely to undergo movement during the drying period.
Pour ce faire, les compositions présentent avantageusement une viscosité supérieure ou égale à 5 Pa.s, notamment supérieure ou égale à 10 Pa.s, en particulier supérieure ou égale à 15 Pa.s, voire supérieure ou égale à 20 Pa.s. Dans le cadre de la présente invention, la viscosité peut être mesurée à 25 °C et pression atmosphérique à l'aide d'un viscosimètre de type Rhéomat RM 180 équipé d'un mobile tournant tel que la mesure est effectuée au gradient de vitesse 200 s"1. L'homme du métier peut choisir le mobile permettant de mesurer la viscosité parmi les mobiles MS-3 et MS-4 sur la base de ses connaissances générales, de manière à pouvoir réaliser la mesure de la viscosité de la composition testée. Cette viscosité est généralement ajustée par la présence d'un ou plusieurs agents gélifiants dans la composition de maquillage selon l'invention.For this purpose, the compositions advantageously have a viscosity greater than or equal to 5 Pa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 10 Pa.s, in particular greater than or equal to 15 Pa.s, or even greater than or equal to 20 Pa.s. In the context of the present invention, the viscosity can be measured at 25 ° C. and atmospheric pressure using a Rheomat RM 180 type viscometer equipped with a rotating rotor such that the measurement is carried out at the speed gradient 200 s "1. Those skilled in the art can select the spindle for measuring the viscosity from the mobile MS-3 and MS-4 on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to perform the measurement of the viscosity of the composition tested . This viscosity is generally adjusted by the presence of one or more gelling agents in the makeup composition according to the invention.
Cet agent gélifiant, généralement hydrosoluble, peut notamment être choisi parmi : - les protéines comme les protéines d'origine végétale,This gelling agent, which is generally water-soluble, may especially be chosen from: proteins, such as proteins of plant origin,
- les polymères de chitine ou de chitosane anioniques, cationiques, amphotères ou non-ioniques,anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers,
- les polymères de cellulose, et notamment les celluloses modifiées, comme par exemple l'hydroxyéthylcellulose modifiée par une chaîne cétyle, telle que le Natrosol plus® commercialisé par la société HERCULES,- cellulose polymers, including modified celluloses, such as the modified hydroxyethylcellulose cetyl chain, such as Natrosol plus ® sold by the company Hercules;
- les polymères vinyliques,vinyl polymers,
- les polymères d'origine naturelle, éventuellement modifiés, tels que les gommes arabiques, la gomme de guar, les dérivés du xanthane, la gomme de karaya, etpolymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, and
- leurs mélanges. II peut également s'agir d'homo- ou co-polymères synthétiques notamment dérivant des acides acryliques et méthacryliques, comme par exemple les homopolymères de chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyle triméthyl ammonium réticulé, et en particulier celui commercialisé par la société CIBA en émulsion inverse dans une huile minérale, sous le nom commercial de Salcare SC 95®, les homopolymères de polyacrylamidotauramide, notamment sous forme de leur sel de sodium (AMPS), en particulier en émulsion inverse, comme par exemple le Simulgel 800® commercialisé par la société SEPPIC et leurs mélanges.- their mixtures. It may also be synthetic homo- or co-polymers, in particular deriving from acrylic and methacrylic acids, for example homopolymers of cross-linked ethyl-trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, and in particular that marketed by the company CIBA in emulsion. inverse in a mineral oil, under the trade name of Salcare SC 95 ® , homopolymers of polyacrylamidotauramide, especially in the form of their sodium salt (AMPS), in particular in inverse emulsion, such as for example Simulgel 800 ® marketed by the company SEPPIC and their mixtures.
L'agent gélifiant peut également être hydrophobe, comme par exemple les polyoxyéthylènes, les silicones réticulées et les aminés greffées. Les gélifiants hydrophobes pourront tout particulièrement se trouver, le cas échéant, dans une fraction hydrophobe de la composition.The gelling agent may also be hydrophobic, such as, for example, polyoxyethylenes, crosslinked silicones and grafted amines. Hydrophobic gelling agents may very well be found, where appropriate, in a hydrophobic fraction of the composition.
Une composition conforme à la présente invention peut comprendre au moins un agent gélifiant tel que définit précédemment, ou un mélange de ceux-ci.A composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one gelling agent as defined above, or a mixture thereof.
La teneur en agent gélifiant est généralement ajustée pour procurer aux compositions des ensembles de maquillage selon l'invention les qualités requises en terme d'application. Elle peut bien entendu varier significativement selon la nature chimique de l'agent gélifiant. Par exemple, l'agent gélifiant peut être présent dans la composition en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 10 % en poids, notamment en une teneur allant de 0,02 à 5 % en poids, et en particulier en une teneur allant de 0,05 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Selon un autre mode de réalisation, l'agent gélifiant peut être présent dans une composition conforme à l'invention ou une teneur allant de 3 à 10 % en poids, notamment en une teneur allant de 5 à 8 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The gelling agent content is generally adjusted to provide the compositions of makeup sets according to the invention the qualities required in terms of application. It can of course vary significantly depending on the chemical nature of the gelling agent. For example, the gelling agent may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, especially at a content ranging from 0.02 to 5% by weight, and in particular at a content ranging from 0.05 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, the gelling agent may be present in a composition according to the invention or a content ranging from 3 to 10% by weight, especially in a content ranging from 5 to 8% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.
Avantageusement, l'agent gélifiant peut être présent en une teneur allant à 5 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. A titre d'exemple d'agent gélifiant convenant à la mise en œuvre de la présente invention, on peut, en particulier, faire mention de Fhomopolymère de chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyle triméthyl ammonium réticulé tel que par exemple celui commercialisé par la société CIBA en émulsion inverse dans l'huile minérale sous la dénomination SALCARE SC 95, et l'acide polyacrylique. Notamment, pour la mise en œuvre d'une composition conforme à l'invention pour dispositif de type pulvérisateur, l'agent gélifiant de type homopolymère de chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyle trimthétyl ammonium réticulé tel que par exemple celui commercialisée par la société CIBA en émulsion inverse dans l'huile minérale sous la dénomination SALCARE SC 95 peut particulièrement convenir. Pour la mise en œuvre d'une composition conforme à l'invention sous la forme d'un patch, tel que décrit par la suite, on peut avantageusement utiliser un acide polyacrylique à titre d'agent gélifiant.Advantageously, the gelling agent may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As an example of a gelling agent that is suitable for the implementation of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the homopolymer of a crosslinked ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate chloride, such as for example that marketed by CIBA. in inverse emulsion in mineral oil under the name SALCARE SC 95, and polyacrylic acid. In particular, for the implementation of a composition according to the invention for device of the sprayer type, the homopolymeric gelling agent of ethyl methacrylate trimethyltinammonium chloride crosslinked such as for example that marketed by CIBA in inverse emulsion in mineral oil under the name SALCARE SC 95 may be particularly suitable. For the implementation of a composition according to the invention in the form of a patch, as described below, it is advantageous to use a polyacrylic acid as a gelling agent.
Lorsqu'une composition conforme à la présente invention comprend un agent gélifiant, le rapport pondéral entre l'agent autobronzant et l'agent gélifiant peut, notamment, varier de 5:1 à 1:5, notamment 4:1 à 1:4, en particulier de 2:1 à 1:2, et plus particulièrement être de 1 : 1.When a composition according to the present invention comprises a gelling agent, the weight ratio between the self-tanning agent and the gelling agent may, in particular, vary from 5: 1 to 1: 5, in particular from 4: 1 to 1: 4, in particular from 2: 1 to 1: 2, and more particularly from 1: 1.
Outre un tel agent gélifiant, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent comprendre une ou plusieurs matières colorantes et/ou composés annexes.In addition to such a gelling agent, the compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more dyestuffs and / or additional compounds.
Il est entendu que le choix de l'ensemble de ces composés à savoir agent gélifiant, matière colorante ou composé annexe, doit être effectué en s'assurant de leur compatibilité avec le composé dit autobronzant. En effet, ces composés doivent être présentés de façon à ne pas perturber la capacité du composé dit autobronzant à procurer l'effet de maquillage escompté.It is understood that the choice of all these compounds namely gelling agent, dyestuff or additional compound must be made by ensuring their compatibility with the so-called self-tanning compound. Indeed, these compounds must be presented so as not to disturb the ability of the so-called self-tanning compound to provide the desired makeup effect.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l'ensemble de maquillage selon l'invention peut en outre comprendre un composé capable de moduler la réaction autobronzante et donc de conditionner un effet esthétique particulier.According to a particular embodiment, the makeup assembly according to the invention may further comprise a compound capable of modulating the self-tanning reaction and thus of conditioning a particular aesthetic effect.
Ainsi, on sait qu'un composé autobronzant comme la dihydroxyacétone (DHA) peut être affecté par la présence simultanée de certains composés azotés et/ou métaux ionisés. Dans ce cas particulier, les compositions selon l'invention utilisant à titre de composé autobronzant de la dihydroxyacétone ou dérivé, seront avantageusement exemptes de quantités de composés azotés, notamment d'acides aminés, et/ou de métaux ionisés, de leurs dérivés et/ou de leurs sels, susceptibles de conduire à une dégradation de la DHA, notamment lors de la conservation du produit. En revanche, des composés capables d'interférer avec la DHA de manière à modifier la réaction de Maillard conduisant à l'effet autobronzant et notamment à l'accentuer, peuvent être associés. Cet effet complémentaire ou synergique de la coloration par la DHA peut s'exprimer en terme de modulation, préférentiellement d'accentuation de l'intensité de la couleur ou de modulation de la cinétique de la réaction de coloration, préférentiellement l'accélération de la « montée » de la couleur et du ralentissement de son élimination, c'est-à-dire de la prolongation de la persistance de la coloration. Parmi les composés susceptibles d'interférer avec les composés dit autobronzants, et notamment la DHA, on peut citer les acides aminés, comme la glycine, notamment les acides aminés basiques, comme la lysine ou l'histidine, les oligopeptides, les peptides, les glycopeptides, l'acide pyrrolidone carboxylique, la lauroyl lysine, leurs dérivés, et leurs associations avec des métaux. En ce qui concerne la présence d'au moins une matière colorante, celle-ci peut être avantageuse à plusieurs titres.Thus, it is known that a self-tanning compound such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA) may be affected by the simultaneous presence of certain nitrogen compounds and / or ionized metals. In this particular case, the compositions according to the invention using as a self-tanning compound dihydroxyacetone or derivative, will advantageously be free of amounts of nitrogen compounds, especially amino acids, and / or ionized metals, their derivatives and / or or their salts, likely to lead to degradation of DHA, especially during the preservation of the product. On the other hand, compounds capable of interfering with DHA so as to modify the Maillard reaction leading to the self-tanning effect and in particular to accentuate it, can be associated. This complementary or synergistic effect of the staining with DHA can be expressed in terms of modulation, preferentially of accentuation of the intensity of the color or of the modulation of the kinetics of the coloring reaction, preferably the acceleration of the " the increase in color and the slowing of its elimination, that is, the prolongation of the persistence of the coloring. Among the compounds capable of interfering with the so-called self-tanning compounds, and especially DHA, mention may be made of amino acids, such as glycine, in particular basic amino acids, such as lysine or histidine, oligopeptides, peptides, glycopeptides, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lauroyl lysine, their derivatives, and their associations with metals. As regards the presence of at least one dyestuff, it may be advantageous for several reasons.
Tout d'abord, elle peut procurer un effet coloré additionnel et donner ainsi la possibilité d'accéder à une plus grande palette de nuances au niveau du maquillage semi- permanent. Par ailleurs, elle peut assurer une fonction d'indicateur d'application pour ladite composition. En effet, dans le cas particulier où le composé autobronzant considéré n'est pas lui-même coloré, il peut être avantageux pour l'utilisateur de pouvoir contrôler visuellement le dépôt de la composition de maquillage grâce à la présence de cette matière colorante.First, it can provide an additional color effect and thus give the opportunity to access a wider range of shades in semi-permanent makeup. Moreover, it can provide an application indicator function for said composition. Indeed, in the particular case where the self-tanning compound considered is not itself colored, it may be advantageous for the user to be able to control visually the deposition of the makeup composition through the presence of this coloring matter.
Elle peut ainsi permettre de créer un système de relais en conférant un premier effet coloré immédiat, qui, progressivement (généralement 2 à 8 heures), sera remplacé par un second effet coloré persistant, dû à l'autobronzant. Ces deux effets colorés peuvent être de teinte identique ou non. Par exemple, une telle matière colorante peut conférer à la peau ou aux phanères une couleur différente pendant les premières heures de ce qu'elle deviendra pendant la montée de l'autobronzant, donnant ainsi au motif de maquillage une apparence « vivante », évolutive, se métamorphosant au cours du temps. Cette matière colorante peut notamment être choisie parmi les pigments, nacres et colorants organiques ou minéraux, hydrosolubles ou liposolubles, naturels ou artificiels, habituellement utilisés en cosmétique.It can thus make it possible to create a relay system by conferring a first immediate color effect, which, progressively (generally 2 to 8 hours), will be replaced by a second persistent color effect, due to the self-tanner. These two colored effects may be of identical hue or not. For example, such a coloring material may impart to the skin or integuments a different color during the first hours of what it will become during the rise of the self-tanner, thus giving the makeup pattern a "living", evolutionary appearance, metamorphosing over time. This dyestuff may in particular be chosen from organic or mineral pigments, nacres and dyes, water-soluble or fat-soluble, natural or artificial, usually used in cosmetics.
Par pigments, il faut comprendre des particules blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, insolubles dans la phase hydrophile liquide, destinées à colorer et/ou opacifier la composition, la peau, les muqueuses ou les phanères. Par nacres, il faut comprendre des particules irisées, notamment produites par certains mollusques dans leur coquille provenant des écailles de poisson, de minéraux naturels iridescents (mica, particules métalliques) ou bien synthétisées, comme par exemple des particules composites. Ces charges et nacres servent notamment à modifier la couleur de la composition.By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition, the skin, the mucous membranes or integuments. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell from fish scales, iridescent natural minerals (mica, metal particles) or synthesized, such as composite particles. These fillers and nacres serve in particular to modify the color of the composition.
Les pigments peuvent être présents dans la composition à raison de 0,01 à 25 % en poids, notamment de 0,01 à 15 % en poids, et mieux de 0,02 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids de la composition.The pigments may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Comme pigments minéraux utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les oxydes de titane, de zirconium ou de cérium ainsi que les oxydes de zinc, de fer ou de chrome, le bleu ferrique, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer et l'hydrate de chrome sous réserve de leur compatibilité avec le composé autobronzant considéré.As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate subject to their compatibility with the self-tanning compound under consideration.
Parmi les pigments organiques utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer le noir de carbone, les pigments de type D & C, et les laques de carmin de cochenille, de baryum, strontium, calcium, aluminium ou encore les dicéto pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) décrits dans les documents EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 et WO-A- 96/08537. On peut également citer, les plaquettes de verre recouvertes de films ou poudres métalliques, notamment de composés de titane, de silice recouvertes de colorants, de sphères organiques (polyéthylène ou nylon) recouvertes de colorants éventuellement fluorescent ou azurants optiques, peuvent également être utilisées dans le cadre de la présente invention.Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lacquers of carmine of cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP). described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. It may also be mentioned that glass wafers coated with metal films or powders, especially titanium compounds, silica coated with dyes, organic spheres (polyethylene or nylon) coated with optionally fluorescent dyes or optical brighteners, may also be used in the scope of the present invention.
Les nacres peuvent être présentes dans la composition à raison de 0,01 à 25 % en poids, notamment de 0,01 à 15 % en poids, et mieux de 0,02 à 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The nacres may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0.01 to 25% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and better still from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .
Les pigments nacrés peuvent être choisis parmi les pigments nacrés blancs tels que le mica recouvert de titane, ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth.The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
La composition peut comprendre également des colorants hydrosolubles ou liposolubles en une teneur allant de 0,01 à 6 % en poids, notamment de 0,01 à 3 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les colorants liposolubles naturels ou synthétiques sont par exemple le rouge Soudan, le DC Red 17, le DC Green 6, le β- carotène, les caroténoïdes, le lycopène, l'huile de palme, le brun Soudan, le DC Yellow 11, le DC Violet 2, le DC orange 5, le jaune quinoléine, le rocou. Les colorants hydrosolubles sont par exemple le jus de betterave, le bleu de méthylène. Les colorants peuvent encore être choisis parmi les anthocyanes de fleurs ou de fruits ou leurs dérivés, les flavonoïdes et tanins extraits de végétaux natifs ou fermentes, la juglone, la lawsone, le caramel, les extraits de soja fermenté, d'algues, de champignons, de micro-organismes.The composition may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes in a content ranging from 0.01 to 6% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The natural or synthetic liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, carotenoids, lycopene, palm oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, orange DC 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue. The dyes can still be chosen from anthocyanins of flowers or fruits or their derivatives, flavonoids and tannins extracted from native or fermented plants, juglone, lawsone, caramel, extracts of fermented soy, seaweed, mushrooms , microorganisms.
Outre une telle matière colorante que l'on peut qualifier de conventionnelle, les compositions de maquillage selon l'invention peuvent contenir un ou plusieurs composés annexes ne répondant pas en soi à la qualification de matière colorante mais qui sont néanmoins capables de procurer un effet complémentaire au niveau de l'effet maquillé obtenu à l'aide du composé autobronzant. Dans l'éventualité où ces composés pourraient affecter la stabilité de la DHA, ils sont alors conservés dans un compartiment séparé et mélangés extemporanément.In addition to such a coloring material that may be described as conventional, the makeup compositions according to the invention may contain one or more additional compounds which do not in themselves satisfy the dyestuff qualification but which nevertheless are capable of providing a complementary effect. at the level of the make-up effect obtained using the self-tanning compound. In the event that these compounds could affect the stability of the DHA, they are then kept in a separate compartment and mixed extemporaneously.
Un tel effet peut par exemple consister en la création : d'un effet de nuance au niveau de la couleur homogène due au composé autobronzant. A titre illustratif de composés de ce type, on peut notamment citer les acides aminés, notamment basiques, les peptides, et métaux ionisés déjà évoqués précédemment pour leur réactivité, notamment vis-à-vis de la DHA, ou - d'un effet de brillance à l'aide de composés de type hydrocarbures, gels de silicone, vernis, cires et/ou paillettes, ou d'un effet de matité, par exemple à l'aide d'un composé comme par exemple l'amidon, le talc, la silice, les laponites, les argiles ou leurs dérivés, ou d'un effet optique de type « soft focus », par exemple de manière à camoufler les défauts de type rides, taches, cicatrices, boutons, comédons, couperose, vergetures, peau d'orange. Un tel effet peut notamment être obtenu avec des exemple microsphères de nylon (Orgasol®) ou de silice, et/ou d'un effet de changement de la texture ou de l'état de surface, du relief, du grain ou toucher de la peau (tenseurs, films lisses, granuleux ou fibreux, cires/pâtes adhésives, flocages).Such an effect can for example consist in the creation: a hue effect at the level of the homogeneous color due to the self-tanning compound. By way of illustration of compounds of this type, mention may in particular be made of the amino acids, in particular basic amino acids, the peptides, and ionized metals already mentioned above for their reactivity, in particular with respect to DHA, or of an effect of gloss with the aid of compounds of the hydrocarbon type, silicone gels, varnishes, waxes and / or flakes, or of a dullness effect, for example with the aid of a compound such as, for example, starch, talc , silica, laponites, clays or their derivatives, or of a "soft focus" type optical effect, for example in order to camouflage the defects of the wrinkles, spots, scars, pimples, blackheads, rosacea, stretch marks, Orange peel. Such an effect can in particular be obtained with exemplary microspheres of nylon (Orgasol ® ) or silica, and / or an effect of change of the texture or of the surface state, of the relief, of the grain or of the touch of the skin (tensors, smooth, granular or fibrous films, waxes / adhesive pastes, flocking).
On peut également envisager d'associer à un composé autobronzant, une ou plusieurs substances parfumantes, telles quelles ou conditionnées sous une forme activable, par exemple de type microcapsules, destinées à libérer seulement au moment de leur rupture, la substance parfumante. On peut encore envisager d'adjoindre des substances produisant des sensations de chaud ou de froid, comme les nicotinates, la capsaïcine, le menthol ou les « cooling agents ».It is also conceivable to associate with a self-tanning compound, one or more perfuming substances, as such or packaged in an activatable form, for example of the microcapsule type, intended to release only at the time of their rupture, the perfuming substance. One can also consider adding substances producing sensations of hot or cold, such as nicotinates, capsaicin, menthol or "cooling agents".
Le composé dit autobronzant peut en outre être associé avec au moins un actif de soin, de protection et/ou de prévention, tel que par exemple des actifs capables de conférer une protection aux UV, des anti-oxydants, des vitamines hydrosolubles ou liposolubles, des antiseptiques, des agents anti-acnéiques, anti-inflammatoires, cicatrisants, dépigmentants, vasculo-protecteurs, anti-couperoses, anti-vergetures, anti-cellulite, anti¬ rides, anti-âge, raffermissants, hydratants, nourrissants, séborégulateurs, stimulants capillaires, antifongiques. Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent tout particulièrement convenir pour masquer les imperfections permanentes ou transitoires, comme par exemple boutons, acné, cicatrices, télangiectasie, couperose, varices, taches, rides, vergetures, acné rosacée, hématomes, vitiligo, masques de grossesse, lupus erythémateux, Pityriasis versicolor, taches rubis, naevi, angiomes lentigo, taches de rousseur, plaques eczematiformes ou psoriasiques. Elles peuvent également convenir au traitement de ces imperfections.The so-called self-tanning compound may also be combined with at least one active care, protection and / or prevention, such as for example, agents capable of conferring protection against UV, antioxidants, water-soluble or fat-soluble vitamins, antiseptics, anti-acne agents, anti-inflammatory, cicatrizing, depigmenting, vasculoprotective, anti-rosacea, anti-stretch marks, anti-cellulite, anti-wrinkle, anti-aging, firming, moisturizing, nourishing, sebo-regulating, stimulants capillaries, antifungals. The compositions according to the invention may especially be suitable for masking permanent or transient imperfections, such as pimples, acne, scars, telangiectasia, rosacea, varicose veins, spots, wrinkles, stretch marks, rosacea, hematomas, vitiligo, pregnancy masks, lupus erythematosus, Pityriasis versicolor, ruby spots, naevi, lentigo angiomas, freckles, eczematiform or psoriatic plaques. They may also be suitable for treating these imperfections.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent en outre contenir un agent de type vecteur favorisant la pénétration, le ciblage et/ou la fixation du composé autobronzant vers certaines structure cellulaires ou tissulaires. Par exemple, il peut s'agir d'un composé autochauffant, ou vasodilatateur, comme les nicotinates, l'extrait de spiruline, d'un composé modifiant, notamment augmentant ou stimulant les échanges gazeux cutanés, ou d'un composé agissant sur le produit tel qu'un milieu tampon ou d'un agent stimulant les réactions de protéolyse, chimique ou enzymatique, comme par exemple le calcium, les stimulateurs d'hydrolyse de la filagrine, des MMPl (méthyl métalloprotéinases), des composés sulfoniques, par exemple l'hydroxyéthyl pipérazine éthane sulfonique, de l'acide térephtalydène dicamphor sulfonique, des acides et des α- et β- hydroxyacides, comme par exemple l'acide salicylique, l'acide capryloyl salicylique, l'acide lactique et l'acide glycolique.The compositions according to the invention may further contain a vector-type agent promoting the penetration, targeting and / or fixation of the self-tanning compound to certain cell or tissue structures. For example, it may be a self-heating compound, or vasodilator, such as nicotinates, spirulina extract, a modifying compound, in particular increasing or stimulating skin gas exchange, or a compound acting on the skin. product such as a buffer medium or an agent stimulating the proteolysis reactions, chemical or enzymatic, such as for example calcium, stimulators of hydrolysis of filagrin, MMPl (methyl metalloproteinases), sulfonic compounds, for example hydroxyethyl piperazine ethane sulfonic acid, terephthalene dicamphor sulfonic acid, acids and α- and β-hydroxy acids, such as for example salicylic acid, capryloyl salicylic acid, lactic acid and glycolic acid.
Par exemple pour la DHA, il peut plus particulièrement s'agir d'un composé apte à diriger la molécule vers des cibles aminées peptidiques ou protéiniques capables de se combiner de façon forte par une réaction de Maillard.For example, for DHA, it may more particularly be a compound capable of directing the molecule towards amino peptide or protein targets capable of strongly combining with a Maillard reaction.
Les compositions selon l'invention comprennent généralement un milieu physiologiquement acceptable.The compositions according to the invention generally comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.
Par « milieu physiologiquement acceptable », on désigne un milieu non toxique et susceptible d'être appliqué sur la peau, les lèvres et/ou les phanères d'êtres humains. Le milieu physiologiquement acceptable sera adapté à la nature du support sur lequel doit être appliquée la composition, ainsi qu'à la forme sous laquelle la composition est destinée à être conditionnée.By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, lips and / or integuments of human beings. The physiologically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the form in which the composition is intended to be packaged.
La nature de ce milieu physiologiquement acceptable est susceptible de varier selon la nature chimique de l'autobronzant considéré. Ainsi il peut être de nature aqueuse, huileuse, émulsionnée ou non, de type gel, solide, compact ou poudreux.The nature of this physiologically acceptable medium is likely to vary according to the chemical nature of the self-tanner considered. Thus, it may be of an aqueous, oily, emulsified or non-emulsified nature, of the gel, solid, compact or powdery type.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent également se présenter sous la forme d'une poudre, à diluer extemporanément dans un véhicule liquide au moment d'une application. Ce véhicule liquide peut être par exemple un liquide exogène à l'image de l'eau ou un liquide de sécrétion comme la salive ou encore les sécrétions sudorales. Dans ce mode de réalisation, il peut être avantageux de privilégier le choix d'un solvant ou mélange de solvants capable de s'évaporer rapidement, de manière à permettre ainsi une fixation rapide du maquillage et de limiter encore plus efficacement tout phénomène de migration à l'application de ladite composition. D'une manière générale, la composition selon l'invention comprend au moins une phase aqueuse. Celle-ci peut soit être constituée essentiellement d'eau soit comprendre un mélange d'eau et d'au moins un solvant organique miscible à l'eau (miscibilité dans l'eau supérieure à 50 % en poids à 25 °C) comme les monoalcools inférieurs ayant de 1 à 5 atomes de carbone tels que l'éthanol, l'isopropanol, les glycols ayant de 2 à 8 atomes de carbone tels que le propylène glycol, l'éthylène glycol, le 1,3 -butylène glycol et le dipropylène glycol, la glycérine, leurs polymères, produits de condensation et dérivés. Cette phase aqueuse peut également comprendre un ou plusieurs sucres.The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of a powder, to be diluted extemporaneously in a liquid vehicle at the time of application. This liquid vehicle may for example be an exogenous liquid such as water or a secretory fluid such as saliva or sweat secretions. In this embodiment, it may be advantageous to favor the choice of a solvent or mixture of solvents capable of evaporating rapidly, so as to allow rapid fixation of the makeup and to limit even more effectively any phenomenon of migration to the application of said composition. In general, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase. This may consist essentially of water or comprise a mixture of water and at least one water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, glycerin, their polymers, condensation products and derivatives. This aqueous phase may also comprise one or more sugars.
Cette phase aqueuse peut être présente dans la composition en une teneur allant par exemple de 5 à 99 % en poids, et notamment de 75 à 90 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.This aqueous phase may be present in the composition in a content ranging for example from 5 to 99% by weight, and especially from 75 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre comporter au moins un corps gras liquide à température ambiante (25 °C). Elle peut notamment comprendre, à titre de corps gras liquide, au moins une huile volatile ou non volatile ou un de leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). It may in particular comprise, as liquid fatty substance, at least one volatile or non-volatile oil or a mixture thereof.
Par « huile volatile », on entend au sens de l'invention toute huile susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. Les huiles volatiles de l'invention sont des huiles cosmétiques volatiles, liquides à température ambiante, ayant une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, allant de 0,01 mm Hg à 300 mm de Hg (1,33 Pa à 40.000 Pa) et en particulier allant de 0,001 mm Hg (1,3 Pa) à 100 mm Hg (13000 Pa), et plus particulièrement allant de 0,01 à 10 mm Hg (1,3 Pa à 1300 Pa).For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 0.01 mmHg to 300 mmHg (1.33 Pa). at 40,000 Pa) and in particular ranging from 0.001 mm Hg (1.3 Pa) to 100 mm Hg (13000 Pa), and more particularly ranging from 0.01 to 10 mm Hg (1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa).
Les huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles peuvent être choisies parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone, et notamment les alcanes ramifiés en C8-C16 (appelées aussi isoparaffines) comme l'isododécane (encore appelé 2,2,4,4,6- pentaméthylheptane), l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, et par exemple les huiles vendues sous les noms commerciaux d'Isopars® ou de Permethyls®, les esters ramifiés en C8-C16 tels que le néopentanoate d'iso-hexyle, et leurs mélanges. D'autres huiles hydrocarbonées volatiles comme les distillats de pétrole, notamment ceux vendus sous la dénomination Shell Soit® par la société SHELL, peuvent aussi être utilisées.The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4). , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyls® ®, branched esters, C 8 -C 16 such as iso- neopentanoate hexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Soit® by Shell, may also be used.
Comme huiles volatiles, on peut aussi utiliser les silicones volatiles, comme par exemple les huiles de silicones linéaires ou cycliques volatiles, notamment celles ayant une viscosité < 8 centistokes (8 x 10~6 mVs), et ayant notamment de 2 à 7 atomes de silicium, ces silicones comportant éventuellement des groupes alkyle ou alkoxy ayant de 1 à 10 atomes de carbone. Comme huile de silicone volatile utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer notamment l'octaméthyl cyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthyl cyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl cyclohexasiloxane, l'heptaméthyl hexyltrisiloxane, l'heptaméthyloctyl trisiloxane, l'hexaméthyl disiloxane, l'octaméthyl trisiloxane, le décaméthyl tétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl pentasiloxane, et leurs mélanges.As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 mVs), and having in particular from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
On peut également utiliser des solvants volatils fluorés tels que le nonafluorométhoxybutane ou le perfluorométhylcyclopentane, et leurs mélanges.It is also possible to use volatile fluorinated solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
La composition selon l'invention peut également comprendre au moins un polymère filmogène. Parmi ceux-ci on peut plus particulièrement citer les polymères filmogènes hydosolubles et hydrodispersibles.The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer. Among these, it is more particularly possible to mention the water-soluble and water-dispersible film-forming polymers.
La composition selon l'invention peut en outre contenir un ou plusieurs agents tensioactifs présents, notamment en une proportion allant de 0,1 à 30 % en poids, en particulier de 2 à 20 % en poids, voire de 5 à 15 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition. Cet agent tensioactif peut être choisi parmi les agents tensioactifs anioniques ou non ioniques, ainsi que les cationiques. On peut se reporter au documentThe composition according to the invention may also contain one or more surfactants present, in particular in a proportion ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 20% by weight, or even from 5 to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition. This surfactant may be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants, as well as cationic surfactants. We can refer to the document
« Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER », volume 22, p.333-432,"Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Volume 22, p.333-432,
3ème édition, 1979, WILEY, pour la définition des propriétés et des fonctions3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of properties and functions
(émulsionnant) des tensioactifs, en particulier p. 347-377 de cette référence pour les tensioactifs anioniques et non-ioniques.(emulsifying) surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference for anionic and nonionic surfactants.
Les composés autobronzant peuvent être conditionnés selon l'invention sous forme d'un ensemble de maquillage, et en particulier d'un kit de maquillage, d'un stick de maquillage ou encore d'un patch de maquillage.The self-tanning compounds may be packaged according to the invention in the form of a makeup set, and in particular a make-up kit, a makeup stick or a make-up patch.
Dans le cas particulier d'un ensemble de maquillage, le composé autobronzant est formulé dans une composition de maquillage telle que définie ci-dessus et y est associé à des moyens d'application. Ces moyens d'application sont choisis de telle sorte qu'ils soient adéquats pour le dépôt de la composition de maquillage sur la surface à maquiller, et adapté au récipient la contenant ainsi qu'au type de maquillage souhaité.In the particular case of a set of makeup, the self-tanning compound is formulated in a makeup composition as defined above and is associated with application means. These means of application are chosen so that they are suitable for depositing the makeup composition on the surface to be made up, and adapted to the container containing it and to the type of makeup desired.
D'une manière générale, l'ensemble des moyens d'application conventionnellement utilisés en cosmétique sont susceptibles de convenir dans la mesure où ils se prêtent à l'application d'une composition ayant une viscosité conforme à l'invention.In general, all the means of application conventionally used in cosmetics are likely to be suitable insofar as they lend themselves to the application of a composition having a viscosity in accordance with the invention.
Les moyens d'application peuvent comporter un élément d'application, lequel peut être poreux, par exemple fibreux, poilu, tabulaire, ou sous forme d'un bâtonnet (comme pour appliquer le khôl traditionnel). L'élément d'application peut être notamment choisi parmi les embouts en coton, embouts en mousse, pointes feutre, embouts floqués, embouts en céramique ou en un matériau fritte et tampons. L'élément d'application peut encore être une brosse, un peigne ou un pinceau, une éponge ou une mousse, un stylo plume ou à pointe tubulaire, un tampon, une tige creuse afin de permettre notamment une application sur les cils, les sourcils, les cheveux ou les ongles. L'élément d'application peut, le cas échéant, présenter des propriétés abrasives.The application means may comprise an applicator element, which may be porous, for example fibrous, hairy, tabular, or in the form of a stick (as for applying traditional kohl). The application element may be chosen in particular from cotton tips, foam tips, felt tips, flocked tips, ceramic tips or a sintered material and pads. The application element may also be a brush, a comb or a brush, a sponge or a mousse, a fountain pen or a tubular point, a tampon, a hollow stem, in particular for application on the eyelashes, the eyebrows , hair or nails. The application element may, if necessary, have abrasive properties.
En ce qui concerne la composition, elle peut être formulée dans n'importe quelle forme de récipient, généralement sélectionnée pour être compatible avec la préparation et avec le type de moyens d'application retenus. Il peut notamment s'agir d'un récipient susceptible de constituer un réservoir pour ladite composition, par exemple un tube.As regards the composition, it can be formulated in any form of container, generally selected to be compatible with the preparation and with the type of application means selected. It may especially be a container capable of constituting a reservoir for said composition, for example a tube.
Il peut également s'agir d'un conditionnement de type swab, ou coton tige à tige creuse, tel que décrit dans la demande FR 02 12155 et notamment de swab bi- composants. Dans ce cas particulier, certains des composants de la composition de maquillage sont conditionnés dans des compartiments séparés, par exemple disposés sous forme d'un tube, de manière à leur garantir une stabilité prolongée. Par exemple le swab peut contenir l'autobronzant sous forme de poudre dispersée dans la tête en coton ou en mousse et son éluant (comportant éventuellement un modulateur de coloration), dans la tige creuse, ou à l'inverse l'autobronzant dans la tige et son éluant dans la tête en coton ou en mousse. Les compartiments d'un tel conditionnement ne sont mis en communication l'un avec l'autre qu'au moment de l'utilisation de la composition de maquillage pour permettre le mélange extemporané de ses ingrédients avant application. Un tel ensemble convient généralement à un usage unique.It may also be a swab type of packaging, or cotton hollow shaft rod, as described in the application FR 02 12155 and in particular two-component swab. In this particular case, some of the components of the makeup composition are packaged in separate compartments, for example arranged in the form of a tube, so as to guarantee them a prolonged stability. For example, the swab may contain the self-tanner in the form of a powder dispersed in the cotton or foam head and its eluent (optionally comprising a color modulator), in the hollow stem, or, conversely, the self-tanner in the stem. and his eluent in the cotton or foam head. The compartments of such a packaging are put into communication with each other only at the moment of use of the make-up composition for allow the extemporaneous mixing of its ingredients before application. Such an assembly is generally suitable for single use.
Comme précisé précédemment, l'ensemble de maquillage peut également se présenter sous la forme d'un dispositif de pulvérisation. Dans le cas particulier du kit de maquillage, la composition selon l'invention dite première composition peut y être associée à une ou plusieurs autres compositions dites seconde(s) composition(s).As stated above, the makeup set may also be in the form of a spraying device. In the particular case of the makeup kit, the composition according to the invention said first composition can be associated with one or more other compositions called second (s) composition (s).
Bien entendu, ce kit peut également être pourvu d'un ou plusieurs de moyens d'applications, dédié(s) ou non, à l'application de chacune des compositions. Un tel kit est notamment avantageux pour associer une composition selon l'invention, c'est-à-dire contenant un composé autobronzant, à au moins une seconde composition contenant au moins une matière active susceptible d'agir au niveau de l'effet de maquillage procuré par le composé autobronzant appliqué sur la surface maquillée. Comme précisé précédemment, cet effet complémentaire peut être de nature très diverse. Il peut se traduire par une amplification, inhibition, neutralisation, modulation ou diminution de l'effet coloré procuré par le composé autobronzant ou par un effet relais avec un effet coloré immédiat ou par une modulation cinétique d'apparition ou d'atténuation de la couleur sur la peau ou la muqueuse.Of course, this kit may also be provided with one or more application means, dedicated or not, to the application of each of the compositions. Such a kit is particularly advantageous for associating a composition according to the invention, that is to say containing a self-tanning compound, with at least one second composition containing at least one active ingredient capable of acting at the level of the effect of makeup provided by the self-tanning compound applied to the makeup surface. As previously stated, this complementary effect can be very diverse in nature. It can result in amplification, inhibition, neutralization, modulation or reduction of the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound or by a relay effect with an immediate color effect or by a kinetic modulation of appearance or attenuation of the color on the skin or mucous membrane.
Selon une première variante, cette seconde composition peut conférer, à l'aspect coloré procuré par la première composition, un effet de couleur complémentaire. Un tel effet peut par exemple être obtenu par l'intermédiaire d'au moins un composé annexe tel que défini ci-dessus et/ou d'au moins une matière colorante.According to a first variant, this second composition can confer, to the colored appearance provided by the first composition, a complementary color effect. Such an effect can for example be obtained via at least one additional compound as defined above and / or at least one dyestuff.
Selon une autre variante, cette seconde composition peut comprendre au moins une matière active, notamment capable de neutraliser l'effet coloré procuré par le composé autobronzant. Selon cette variante, elle agit comme une composition démaquillante.According to another variant, this second composition may comprise at least one active material, in particular capable of neutralizing the colored effect provided by the self-tanning compound. According to this variant, it acts as a cleansing composition.
Il est clair que dans cette seconde option, le choix de cette matière active à effet neutralisant est directement lié à la nature chimique du composé autobronzant retenu.It is clear that in this second option, the choice of this active ingredient neutralizing effect is directly related to the chemical nature of the self-tanning compound retained.
Dans le cas particulier où le composé autobronzant présent dans la première composition est la DHA, il peut être avantageux de lui associer une seconde composition comprenant au moins une matière active à effet neutralisant.In the particular case where the self-tanning compound present in the first composition is DHA, it may be advantageous to associate a second composition comprising at least one active ingredient with a neutralizing effect.
Selon un autre aspect de l'invention, le composé autobronzant peut être conditionné sous la forme d'un patch. On entend par "patch" une structure sous forme d'une feuille ou nappe à une ou plusieurs couches, comprenant une matrice dans laquelle est incorporé au moins un composé autobronzant, apte, lorsque la matrice est mise au contact de la peau à avoir une action sur la peau. Au terme d'un certain temps de pose, le patch est retiré. Tout ou partie des composés contenus dans la matrice a été transféré à la peau à la muqueuses ou aux phanères, notamment par évaporation ou transfert.According to another aspect of the invention, the self-tanning compound may be packaged in the form of a patch. "Patch" is understood to mean a structure in the form of a sheet or sheet having one or more layers, comprising a matrix in which at least one self-tanning compound is incorporated, suitable, when the matrix is brought into contact with the skin, to have a action on the skin. At the end of a certain exposure time, the patch is removed. All or part of the compounds contained in the matrix has been transferred to the skin to the mucous membranes or integuments, in particular by evaporation or transfer.
Plus précisément, la matrice peut comprendre au moins un polymère gélifiant choisi parmi : les celluloses, et notamment les celluloses modifiées, comme par exemple l'hydroxyéthylcellulose modifiée par une chaîne cétyle, telle que le Natrosol plus® commercialisé par la société HERCULES, les homopolymères de chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyle triméthyl ammonium réticulé, notamment en émulsion inverse dans une huile minérale, comme par exemple celui commercialisé par la société CIBA sous le nom commercial de Salcare SC 95®, - les homopolymères de polyacrylamidotauramide, notamment sous forme de leur sel de sodium (AMPS), en particulier en émulsion inverse, comme par exemple le Simulgel 800® commercialisé par la société SEPPIC et leurs mélanges.Specifically, the matrix may comprise at least one gelling polymer selected from: celluloses, including modified celluloses, such as the modified hydroxyethylcellulose cetyl chain, such as Natrosol plus ® sold by the company Hercules, homopolymers chloride ethyl methacrylate trimethyl ammonium crosslinked, in particular by inverse emulsion in mineral oil such as that sold by Ciba under the trade name Salcare ® SC 95, - homopolymers polyacrylamidotauramide, particularly in the form of their sodium salt (AMPS), in particular in inverse emulsion, such as for example the Simulgel 800 ® marketed by the company SEPPIC and their mixtures.
Le temps d'application peut varier dans une large mesure, et peut aller de quelques secondes à plusieurs heures ou une nuit. La matrice peut être déposée sur un support apte à en favoriser la manipulation et/ou réaliser éventuellement une barrière occlusive ou semi-occlusive. Ce support peut être fixé par un adhésif ou un dispositif de maintien pour rester en place et permettre le dessin d'un motif.The application time may vary to a large extent, and may range from a few seconds to several hours or a night. The matrix may be deposited on a support capable of promoting the manipulation thereof and / or possibly producing an occlusive or semi-occlusive barrier. This support can be fixed by an adhesive or a holding device to stay in place and allow the drawing of a pattern.
Le patch peut protéger la peau, le motif et le produit pendant leur mise en contact. Il peut également permettre de contrôler le taux d'hydratation pendant la réaction de coloration autobronzante (voir l'article de B. Nguyen et I. Kochevar, British Journal of Dermatology, 2003, 149, 332-340), ou de modifier la température locale, notamment si il est associé avec des « autochauffants », ou des composés produisants une réaction exothermique, ou des vasodilatateurs.The patch can protect the skin, the pattern and the product as they come into contact. It can also control the level of hydration during the self-tanning staining reaction (see article by B. Nguyen and I. Kochevar, British Journal of Dermatology, 2003, 149, 332-340), or change the temperature local, especially if it is associated with "self-heating", or compounds producing an exothermic reaction, or vasodilators.
Il peut s'agir d'un patch électrique ou photoélectrique permettant d'appliquer à la peau une différence de potentiel capable de déplacer des acides aminés, peptides ou protéines selon un effet électrophorétique ou iontophorétique. II peut encore s'agir d'un patch muni d'un capteur solaire pouvant notamment permettre d'augmenter la température.It may be an electrical or photoelectric patch for applying to the skin a potential difference capable of displacing amino acids, peptides or proteins according to an electrophoretic or iontophoretic effect. It may also be a patch provided with a solar collector may in particular allow to increase the temperature.
Il peut également s'agir d'un patch à appliquer par-dessus un pochoir, plus ou moins imperméable selon l'effet désiré, lui-même maintenu contre la peau ou la muqueuse. Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le patch peut être du type papier enduit, notamment tel que décrit dans la demande de brevet français FR 03 09301.It may also be a patch to be applied over a stencil, more or less impervious depending on the desired effect, itself maintained against the skin or the mucosa. According to one particular embodiment, the patch may be of the coated paper type, in particular as described in the French patent application FR 03 09301.
Ce patch peut être sec, hydraté ou mouillé par un diluant de l'autobronzant au moment de l'application. Lorsqu'il est à l'état sec, le diluant peut être soit fourni avec le patch, soit procuré directement par l'utilisateur. Il peut par exemple s'agir d'eau, ou d'une sécrétion biologique de l'utilisateur, comme la salive et les sécrétions sudorales.This patch can be dry, hydrated or wet with a self-tanner thinner at the time of application. When in the dry state, the diluent can either be supplied with the patch or provided directly by the user. It may for example be water, or a biological secretion of the user, such as saliva and sweat secretions.
Les patchs selon l'invention peuvent en outre avantageusement se présenter sous la forme de pochoirs, tampons, qui ont pour avantage de pouvoir être préconditionnés en terme de formes pour créer des motifs originaux sur la surface à maquiller.The patches according to the invention may also advantageously be in the form of stencils, buffers, which have the advantage of being preconditioned in terms of shapes to create original patterns on the surface to make up.
Selon ce mode de réalisation, il peut s'agir d'un patch à double feuillet, entre lesquels est contenue une capsule de liquide sécable, qui n'est rompue qu'au moment de l'application. Le liquide libéré vient alors imprégner la face du patch située contre la peau ou la muqueuse. L'autobronzant peut être présent soit dans la capsule soit sur la face du patch située contre la peau ou la muqueuse.According to this embodiment, it may be a double-sheet patch, between which is contained a separable liquid capsule, which is broken only at the time of application. The released liquid then impregnates the face of the patch located against the skin or mucosa. The self-tanning agent may be present either in the capsule or on the face of the patch located against the skin or the mucosa.
Les pochoirs peuvent se présenter en bandes, frises, par exemple sous forme d'un rouleau dont on évide la longueur souhaitée et que l'utilisateur peut positionner sur les zones à maquiller en sélectionnant la longueur à appliquer pour obtenir l'effet décoratif personnalisé.The stencils may be in strips, friezes, for example in the form of a roll whose length is desired and that the user can position the areas to make up by selecting the length to be applied to obtain the custom decorative effect.
Les ensemble, kit, stick et patch de maquillage selon l'invention, peuvent être utilisés pour maquiller les sourcils, les paupières, les contours de yeux, les lèvres, et notamment leurs contours. Ils permettent également d'obtenir des tatouages semi- permanents, par exemple sur le corps ou sur le visage.The set, kit, stick and make-up patch according to the invention can be used to make up the eyebrows, the eyelids, the contours of eyes, the lips, and in particular their contours. They also make it possible to obtain semi-permanent tattoos, for example on the body or on the face.
L'invention concerne également un procédé de maquillage comprenant l'application sur la surface à maquiller d'une composition ou agent autobronzant conditionnée dans un ensemble, kit, stick, pulvérisateur ou patch de maquillage selon l'invention. Le procédé de maquillage peut également permettre d'obtenir un motif tatoué de façon semi-permanente sur le corps ou le visage, le cuir chevelu, les phanères, les muqueuses.The invention also relates to a makeup process comprising applying to the surface to be made up of a composition or self-tanning agent packaged in a set, kit, stick, spray or makeup patch according to the invention. The makeup process can also make it possible to obtain a pattern tattooed semi-permanently on the body or the face, the scalp, the integuments, the mucous membranes.
Le procédé de maquillage peut comprendre en outre une étape préliminaire d'exfoliation, notamment biologique, chimique ou mécanique, visant notamment à préparer la surface à maquiller notamment en vue de favoriser l'adhérence consécutive de la composition de maquillage.The makeup process may furthermore comprise a preliminary exfoliation step, in particular a biological, chemical or mechanical step, aimed in particular at preparing the surface to be made up, in particular with a view to promoting the subsequent adhesion of the make-up composition.
Le procédé de maquillage peut également comprendre une étape de chauffage, endogène ou exogène. II peut comprendre une étape ultérieure de maquillage classique (non- permanent), notamment sans transfert, ou d'ombrage, notamment par des nacres ou des paillettes.The makeup process may also include a heating step, endogenous or exogenous. It may comprise a subsequent step of conventional (non-permanent) makeup, especially without transfer, or shading, especially with nacres or flakes.
Les exemples suivants sont donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif de l'invention.The following examples are given by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention.
Exemple 1 : compositions pour dispositif de type pulvérisateurExample 1: Device compositions of the sprayer type
a)at)
ConcentrationConcentration
(% en poids)(% in weight)
Conservateur 0,70Conservative 0.70
Dihydroxyacétone en poudre 15,00Dihydroxyacetone powder 15.00
Sel di-sodique de bleu brillant FCF (CI : 42090) 0,006Sodium salt of bright blue FCF (CI: 42090) 0.006
Sel di-sodique du jaune brillant FCF (CI : 15985) 0,09 Glycérol 5,00Sodium salt of bright yellow FCF (CI: 15985) 0.09 Glycerol 5.00
Homopolymère chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyl triméthyl ammonium réticulé en émulsion inverse dans huile minérale commercialisé par la 4,00 société CIBA sous la dénomination Salcare SC 95® Homopolymer chloride of ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate crosslinked in inverse emulsion in mineral oil marketed by the 4.00 company CIBA under the name Salcare SC 95 ®
Sel di-sodique de Fuchsine acide D (CI : 17200) 0,015 Alcool éthylique absolu dénaturé 5,00Di-sodium salt of Fuchsin acid D (CI: 17200) 0.015 Absolute denatured ethyl alcohol 5.00
Eau désionisée microbio logiquement propre qsp 100,00 A température ambiante, dans un récipient comprenant la DHA, l'eau et la glycérine sont ajoutées, le mélange est ensuite agité par un agitateur de type Bioblock à 300 tr/mn pendant 10 minutes.Deionized water microbio logically clean qs 100.00 At room temperature, in a container comprising DHA, water and glycerin are added, the mixture is then stirred with a Bioblock type stirrer at 300 rpm for 10 minutes.
Les colorants sont ensuite additionnés et le mélange est agité jusqu'à solubilisation complète (environ 10 minutes).The dyes are then added and the mixture is stirred until complete solubilization (about 10 minutes).
L'alcool est alors incorporé, homogénéisé, puis le mélange conservateur et polymères est ajouté, l'agitation se poursuit à 1800 tr/mn puis est arrêtée, et enfin le mélange est homogénéisé à l'aide d'une spatule.The alcohol is then incorporated, homogenized, then the preservative and polymer mixture is added, stirring is continued at 1800 rpm and then stopped, and finally the mixture is homogenized using a spatula.
La mesure du couple nécessaire pour vaincre la résistance du fluide dont on veut déterminer la viscosité est effectuée à l'aide d'un élément immergé tournant à une vitesse choisie et constante de 200 tours par minute.The measurement of the torque necessary to overcome the resistance of the fluid whose viscosity is to be determined is carried out with the aid of a submerged element rotating at a chosen and constant speed of 200 revolutions per minute.
L'appareillage utilisé est commercialisé par la société METTLER sous la dénomination Rheomat RMl 80. La mesure est effectuée avec un ensemble produit à analyser-godet-corps de mesure maintenu à la température de consigne de 25°C, et elle est effectuée après 10 minutes de rotation du corps de mesure.The apparatus used is marketed by the company METTLER under the name Rheomat RMl 80. The measurement is carried out with a product product to be analyzed-bucket-measuring body maintained at the set temperature of 25 ° C., and it is carried out after 10 minutes. minutes of rotation of the measuring body.
La composition présente une viscosité mesurée de 7,5 Pa.s.The composition has a measured viscosity of 7.5 Pa.s.
m Concentration (% en poids)m Concentration (% by weight)
Conservateur 0,70Conservative 0.70
Dihydroxyacétone en poudre 15,00Dihydroxyacetone powder 15.00
Alcool éthylique absolu dénaturé 5,00Denatured absolute ethyl alcohol 5.00
Homopolymère chlorure de méthacrylate d'éthyl triméthyl ammonium réticulé en émulsion inverse dans huile minérale commercialisé par la société 4,00Homopolymer chloride of ethyl trimethylammonium methacrylate crosslinked in inverse emulsion in mineral oil marketed by the company 4.00
CIBA sous la dénomination Salcare SC 95® CIBA under the name Salcare SC 95 ®
Glycérol 5,00Glycerol 5.00
Eau désionisée microbio logiquement propre qsp 100,00Deionized water microbio logically clean qs 100.00
Le même protocole que décrit ci-dessus est utilisé. Cette composition présente une viscosité de 7,9 Pa. s.The same protocol as described above is used. This composition has a viscosity of 7.9 Pa. S.
Ces deux compositions peuvent être conditionnées dans des dispositifs de type pulvérisateurs. Exemple 2 : composition destinée à être appliquée sur un support non-tissé pour préparer un patchThese two compositions can be packaged in spray-type devices. Example 2: Composition intended to be applied to a nonwoven support to prepare a patch
% en poids DHA 20,00% by weight DHA 20.00
Sodium polyacrylate 10,00Sodium polyacrylate 10.00
Acide polyacrylique 10,00Polyacrylic acid 10.00
Acide tartarique 4,00Tartaric acid 4.00
Tween 80® 3,00 Methyl paraben® 0,5Tween 80 ® 3.00 Methyl paraben ® 0.5
Propyl paraben® 0,5Propyl paraben ® 0.5
Eau qsp 100,00Water qs 100,00
Cette composition est directement déposée sur un support non tissé en fibres de cellulose, et conditionnée en sachet étanche d'aluminium vernis sous forme unitaire. This composition is directly deposited on a non-woven support made of cellulose fibers, and packaged in a waterproof bag of varnished aluminum in unitary form.
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (4)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0451535A FR2873000B1 (en) | 2004-07-15 | 2004-07-15 | MAKEUP ASSEMBLY FOR SEMI-PERMANENT TATTOO |
FR0451535 | 2004-07-15 | ||
US59988104P | 2004-08-10 | 2004-08-10 | |
US60/599,881 | 2004-08-10 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2006008427A2 true WO2006008427A2 (en) | 2006-01-26 |
WO2006008427A3 WO2006008427A3 (en) | 2006-03-23 |
Family
ID=35453664
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/FR2005/050586 WO2006008427A2 (en) | 2004-07-15 | 2005-07-13 | Make-up set which is intended for semi-permanent tattooing |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
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WO (1) | WO2006008427A2 (en) |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2018153770A1 (en) | 2017-02-27 | 2018-08-30 | L'oreal | Cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material |
US20240261202A1 (en) * | 2015-06-19 | 2024-08-08 | inkbox ink Inc. | Body ink compositions and applicators |
Family Cites Families (7)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
DE29512627U1 (en) * | 1995-08-05 | 1995-12-14 | Linea Conception Software GmbH, 90491 Nürnberg | Container for mixing and dispensing a mixed substance |
FR2755366B1 (en) * | 1996-11-04 | 1998-12-04 | Oreal | RINSABLE COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE |
AU736098B2 (en) * | 1997-04-10 | 2001-07-26 | Valerie Frederique Bochenek | Device for delivering one or more doses of a fluid product and device for the application of an adhesive temporary tattoo using this device |
US5928797A (en) * | 1997-09-08 | 1999-07-27 | Deliquescence Holdings, Inc. | Temporary tattoo device and method |
FR2772268B1 (en) * | 1997-12-15 | 2000-03-03 | Clarins | NEW COSMETIC SELF-TANNING AND ANTIDEHYDRATING COMPOSITION |
WO2002102348A1 (en) * | 2002-05-02 | 2002-12-27 | Priscilla S.R.L. Unipersonale | Anti-stretch mark product and corresponding method |
FR2845069B1 (en) * | 2002-10-01 | 2005-05-27 | Oreal | APPLICATOR COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO PRODUCTS STORED SEPARATELY |
-
2005
- 2005-07-13 WO PCT/FR2005/050586 patent/WO2006008427A2/en active Application Filing
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US20240261202A1 (en) * | 2015-06-19 | 2024-08-08 | inkbox ink Inc. | Body ink compositions and applicators |
WO2018153770A1 (en) | 2017-02-27 | 2018-08-30 | L'oreal | Cosmetic treatment process for a keratin material |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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WO2006008427A3 (en) | 2006-03-23 |
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