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WO2018096262A1 - Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips - Google Patents

Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018096262A1
WO2018096262A1 PCT/FR2017/053205 FR2017053205W WO2018096262A1 WO 2018096262 A1 WO2018096262 A1 WO 2018096262A1 FR 2017053205 W FR2017053205 W FR 2017053205W WO 2018096262 A1 WO2018096262 A1 WO 2018096262A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
vinyl
composition according
wax
composition
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2017/053205
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Anne-Sophie RATTINA
Valérie Alard
Laurent Neau
Original Assignee
Lvmh Recherche
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Lvmh Recherche filed Critical Lvmh Recherche
Publication of WO2018096262A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018096262A1/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a novel film-forming composition, and to its use in the field of cosmetics. More particularly, the present invention relates to a novel composition comprising a novel blend of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, and polysilsesquioxane resin ingredients.
  • the invention also relates to compositions and methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, skin and lips, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention.
  • Mascaras, foundations and lipsticks comprising a composition according to the invention are also objects of the invention.
  • a makeup kit comprising such a composition is also part of the invention.
  • the cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care must meet a complex set of specifications comprising a multitude of criteria. For example, the stability and stability of the product over time, the comfort during its application and over time once applied. However, these criteria are difficult to meet simultaneously: for example, increasing the strength of a makeup product very frequently leads to a decrease in comfort felt by the user, related to drying out, feeling of stickiness, or heaviness of the deposit on keratin materials, skin or lips.
  • the pullulan is known from the application US 2003/0082221 for its use as a non-sticking film-forming agent in the cometic field.
  • Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide (oste polymer) consisting of maltotriose units (a glucose triholoside), also known as alpha-1,4-; alpha-l, 6-glucan.
  • maltotriose units a glucose triholoside
  • alpha-1,4-; alpha-l, 6-glucan The three units of glucose that make up maltotriose are linked by an alpha-1,4-type osidic linkage, while maltotrioses are connected to each other by links.
  • ⁇ -1,6-type osidics Pullulan is produced from starch by the mushroom Aureobasidium pullulans.
  • Pullulan derivatives of the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan type are also commonly used in make-up products.
  • Application KR2015100201 describes, for example, very soft water-in-oil cosmetic compositions based on urethane polymer, one or more species selected from a silicone resin, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan and an acrylic silicone copolymer, and a silicone gum or a polymer silicone.
  • the application WO2014181747 also describes cosmetic compositions, including mascara, based on trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, easy to apply and having good adhesion, no sticky effect, and a good retention effect.
  • One of the objectives of the present invention is therefore to provide a film-forming composition combining long-lasting (greater than 24 hours) and comfort of application.
  • This composition makes it possible to formulate products for the make-up of the skin and / or keratin materials such as mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, which leave a feeling of softness and suppleness on the keratin materials, the skin and the skin. lips, without cardboard effect.
  • the subject of the present invention is a film-forming composition
  • a film-forming composition comprising:
  • the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is advantageously a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 1 -C 5. Even more advantageously, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
  • the film-forming composition comprises:
  • the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and still more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) preferably represents from 0.5 to 30%, more preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the copolymer (ii) is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
  • the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is advantageously a resin of formula (R-SiO 3/2 ) x , in which:
  • R represents a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, a C 4 -C 12 aryl radical, or a C 1 -C 20 aralkyl radical, and
  • x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
  • Alkyl a saturated, linear or branched, C 1 -C 20 , preferably C 1 -C 12, more preferably C 1 -C 6 , saturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group, and even more preferentially in QQ.
  • branched means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkyl chain.
  • alkyl group there may be mentioned, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl and n-pentyl.
  • Alkenyl an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising a covalent double bond between two carbon atoms, linear or branched, C 2 -C 2 O, preferably C 2 -C 12 , more preferably C 2 -C 6 , and even more preferably in C 2 -.
  • branched means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkenyl chain. Examples of alkenyl groups that may be mentioned are ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, t-butylene and n-pentylene.
  • Cycloalkyl any functional group or substituent derived from a non-aromatic ring having at least 3 carbon atoms, and preferably C3-Q2, optionally optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from P, S, O and N Among such groups, there may be mentioned cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; the cyclohexyl group being preferred.
  • Aryl any functional group or substituent derived from at least one aromatic ring; an aromatic ring corresponds to any planar mono- or polycyclic group comprising a delocalized ⁇ system in which each atom of the cycle comprises an orbital p, said orbital p overlapping each other; among such aryl groups there may be mentioned phenyl, biphenyl, naphthalene and anthracene groups.
  • the aryl groups of the invention preferably comprise from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 5 to 6 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the aryl group of the invention is a phenyl group.
  • Aralkyl any group derived from an alkyl group as defined above in which a hydrogen atom is replaced by an aryl group.
  • the polysilsesquioxane resin (in) is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane and polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • Said polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 25%, and even more preferably from 5 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 10 to 35% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
  • the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 40% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
  • the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 30 to 70% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
  • the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
  • the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
  • the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 50 to 70% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
  • the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) can represent from 10 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
  • the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
  • the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) can represent from 50 to 65% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
  • the film-forming composition of the invention comprises:
  • the ratio by weight of components (i), (ii) and (iii) is in the range 1/1/1 to 1/5/10, and even more preferably in the range 1/1/3 to 1/2/4. According to an even more advantageous embodiment, it is 1 / 1.5 / 3.5.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention also comprises at least one volatile solvent (or volatile oil) (iv).
  • volatile solvent means a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg, 105 Pa).
  • the volatile solvent is liquid at ambient temperature, and has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa.
  • the volatile solvent (iv) of the invention may be a hydrocarbon solvent, silicone, or mixtures thereof.
  • solvents can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the solvents of vegetable origin are preferred.
  • silicon solvent means a solvent comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.
  • hydrocarbon solvent means a solvent containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The solvents may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is more preferably isododecane.
  • Linear alkanes may also include C8-C16, in particular Cio-C 15, more particularly C n -C 3, and mixtures thereof, such as undecane-tridecane mixture.
  • Silicone volatile solvents that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile solvents such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Cyclic silicone volatile solvents that may be mentioned include cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • the volatile solvent (iv) is advantageously chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof. Particularly advantageously, the volatile solvent (iv) is isododecane.
  • the volatile solvent (iv) may represent from 10 to 70%, preferably from 15 to 65%, and even more preferably from 20 to 60%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may also contain cosmetic ingredients leading to complementary effects such as moisturizing, structuring or staining agents.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may in particular comprise at least one silicone elastomer, different from the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii), having viscoelastic properties.
  • the silicone elastomer used in the present invention improves the feel of the film-forming composition; it also has a fuzzy and matifying function.
  • Said silicone elastomer is advantageously chosen from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) (or dimethicone), methyl-polysiloxane (Q), vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (VMQ), phenyl-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (PVMQ), fluoro -vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (FVMQ), and mixtures thereof.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
  • Q methyl-polysiloxane
  • VMQ vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane
  • PVMQ phenyl-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane
  • FVMQ fluoro -vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane
  • the silicone elastomer of the invention is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder.
  • the silicone elastomer of the invention may represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • a film-forming polymer may also be present in the film-forming composition of the invention.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, said support possibly consisting of fibers whose shape and dimensions are those of keratinous fibers.
  • the word polymer may designate a homopolymer or a copolymer.
  • copolymer is meant a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure.
  • the film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from:
  • copolymers of a vinyl ester and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethylenate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate vinyl stearate,
  • polyolefins or polyalphaolefins hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
  • alkylcelluloses and preferably alkylcelluloses bearing a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
  • the film-forming polymer preferably represents from 0.5 to 10%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the film-forming composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff advantageously chosen from pigments and nacres.
  • the particles constituting these dyestuffs preferably have a diameter not exceeding 200 ⁇ , and even more preferably not exceeding 150 ⁇ .
  • pigments white or colored particles, mineral or organic, coated or not, insoluble in an aqueous phase, intended to color and / or opacify the film-forming composition containing them.
  • pigments that may be used in the film-forming composition of the invention, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides, and manganese violet. , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof. It can also be a pigment having a structure that can be for example of the type sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. It may also be pigments having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres type containing iron oxide.
  • the pigments of the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
  • nacres it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.
  • white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.
  • the nacres of the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, as well as with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the coloring material may be treated with an organic agent which is deposited on the surface of the coloring material by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, or creation of covalent bonds between the organic agent and the coloring material.
  • the organic agent is a silicone or an amino acid.
  • the coloring material is preferably a pigment coated with a silicone layer, more preferably with a layer of methicone, dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), hydrogenated dimethicone, a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, a acrylate-dimethicone copolymer, and even more preferably by a dimethicone layer.
  • the dyestuff is a pigment selected from iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides coated in a dimethicone layer.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of dyestuff relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax intended to thicken the film and give a more viscous texture to the composition during its application.
  • wax is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (at 25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. of up to 200 ° C. ° C, and especially up to 120 ° C.
  • the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3: 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC).
  • the waxes that may be used in the context of the present invention are solid waxes at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, synthetic waxes, or mixtures thereof. They can therefore be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the waxes of the invention may be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbon-based and / or fluorinated, and optionally include ester or hydroxyl functions.
  • apolar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C is equal to 0 (J.cm 3 ) 1 2 .
  • the definition and calculation of the solubility parameter is described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
  • the apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom.
  • the apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • polar wax means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. is different from 0 (J.cm "3 ) 1 2,
  • polar wax means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
  • nonpolar waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, and
  • polar waxes such as, for example, beeswax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, the wax of Japan, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, wax laurels, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 fatty chains, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil , coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and
  • waxes mention may be made of paraffins, beeswax and Candellila waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the wax or waxes of the invention may be present in a proportion of 1 to 40%, and preferably 10 to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise at least one gelling compound advantageously chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as tri (hydroxystearate) of glyceryl (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).
  • natural or synthetic clays such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate
  • dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate
  • tri-esters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as tri (hydroxystearate) of glyceryl (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin).
  • the gelling compound of the invention is preferably a natural or synthetic clay chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
  • they are chosen from hectorites.
  • Hectorites modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride are even more preferably used, said ammonium being substituted with at least one, and preferably at least two, C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals, such as distéardimonium hectorite in which ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.
  • the gelling compound may represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as solid fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and cosmetic active agents, for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and filters. solar, and their mixtures.
  • cosmetics such as solid fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and cosmetic active agents, for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and filters. solar, and their mixtures.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may be a cosmetic composition, and in particular be in any of the cosmetic forms conventionally used. for applications on keratinous fibers, skin, or lips, such as solid, liquid or even liquid forms under pressure. It may especially be formulated in the form of a solution, a cream, a gel, a foam, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular stick or powder.
  • the film-forming composition of the invention may be prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:
  • step (d) mixing the preparation obtained at the end of step (b) with the preparation obtained at the end of step (c), with stirring.
  • the step (a) of hot mixing can be carried out at a temperature ranging from
  • the dyestuff added during step (b) is preferably previously dry milled, for example using a WARING ® type mill.
  • the step (c) of mixing can be carried out in an agitator such as a TURBOTEST (V I) stirrer.
  • an agitator such as a TURBOTEST (V I) stirrer.
  • the process for preparing said film-forming composition may optionally comprise an additional step (e) of grinding the preparation obtained at the end of step (d). to obtain a powder formed of fine solid particles.
  • This grinding step (e) can be carried out in a three-roll mill such as an EXAKT 50i mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
  • the invention also relates to a process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising a step of application to keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, the skin and / or the lips of a film-forming composition according to the invention.
  • Another object of the invention is a film consisting of a film-forming composition according to the invention preferably having a thickness ranging from 150 to 800 ⁇ m.
  • a further object of the invention relates to the use of a film-forming composition according to the invention for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, skin and lips.
  • keratin materials is intended for human keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and artificial keratinous fibers such as false eyelashes.
  • a make-up composition intended to be applied to keratinous fibers is also called "mascara”.
  • the present invention also covers semi-permanent mascaras, long-lasting foundations, and long-wearing lipsticks, comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention.
  • These make-up products combine staying, comfort and flexibility for at least 24 hours.
  • a mascara has a hold of at least 24 hours, or 48 hours, and is resistant to a day, a night and a shower.
  • a final subject of the invention relates to a make-up kit comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention, packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for taking and applying said composition to the keratinous fibers, the skin and / or the lips.
  • the reservoir may advantageously be a bottle, a bucket or a pot.
  • sampling and application means may advantageously be a brush, a brush, a sponge or a cellular foam.
  • the invention also comprises other arrangements which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of film-forming compositions according to the invention, and to FIGS. 1 and 2 which highlight the properties chemical resistance and adhesion of the film-forming compositions of the invention.
  • composition 1 A film-forming composition according to the invention (composition 1) and two compositions representative of the state of the art (compositions 2 and 3) were prepared as described below.
  • composition 3 is a composition according to the application WO2014181747.
  • the three formulations prepared have the following compositions (the amounts are expressed in% by weight):
  • the raw materials used are as follows:
  • Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan TSPL-30-ID F (Shin-Etsu Silicone),
  • the polymethylsilsesquioxane or trimethylsiloxysilicate resin is first dispersed in isododecane by means of a RAYNERI VMI stirrer at room temperature.
  • the trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan is then added, followed by the acrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer or the acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer.
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 ⁇ m gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity. The visual aspect of the dry films is then observed.
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 ⁇ m gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
  • the dried samples are then placed in three separate test media:
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on Leneta contrast cards (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a bar 150 m gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity.
  • the adhesion of the samples is then evaluated using a grid method, using an ELCOMETER ® 1542 Cross Hatch Tester Adhesion Tester 6 X 2 mm. Incisions are made on the samples, maintaining a uniform pressure on the ELCOMETER ® instrument while moving it, to form a grid. An adhesive tape (Tesa ® 64620) is then placed in the center of the grid and smoothed with your finger. The tape is then torn off quickly at an angle of 60 °.
  • Composition 1 (Invention) Homogeneous Film 3
  • composition 2 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5
  • composition 3 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5
  • the representative composition 1 of the invention has a higher adhesion than that of compositions 2 and 3.
  • the composition 1 also withstands water at room temperature, at 40 ° C., as well as sebum. ⁇ Wettability test:
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on Leneta contrast maps (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 ⁇ m gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
  • the test is performed by measuring at a room temperature (25 ° C) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on the samples, using a Drop Shape Analyzer instrument - DSA100B (Kriiss ).
  • the angle is measured just after the drop is deposited, then 5 minutes after the deposit. If the angle of the drop of water is greater than 90 °, the film from the composition is considered hydrophobic, insofar as it has no affinity for water. If the angle of the sebum drop is greater than 90 °, the film from the composition is considered lipophobic, since it has no affinity for artificial sebum. Measuring the angle after 5 minutes makes it possible to evaluate the evolution of the affinity between water / sebum and the film formed from the film-forming composition of the invention.
  • the compositions thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
  • compositions form highly hydrophobic films, and that the film obtained from the composition 1 of the invention is distinguished by a better resistance to sebum (and therefore to perspiration) than those formed from the compositions 2 and 3.
  • sebum and therefore to perspiration
  • the film formed from the composition of the invention is distinguished by a lower affinity with sebum, so it resists it much better than the films formed from compositions 2 and 3 of the prior art.
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm ⁇ 50 mm) to obtain 3 g of dry film.
  • the samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity.
  • compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm X 50 mm) to have 3 g of film.
  • the samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity to form a film.
  • Their flexibility is then evaluated using a TA.XTPIus texturometer with a support for five-hole film HDP / FSR 5 and a sphere 5 mm P / 5S.
  • Composition 2 (comparative)
  • composition 3 (comparative)
  • the film obtained from the representative composition 1 of the invention is the only one for which it is possible to obtain a test value. It is therefore significantly more flexible than those obtained from compositions 2 and 3, which form films that are too brittle and whose flexibility can not be evaluated.
  • compositions Two mascara compositions, a MASCARA 1 (invention) and a MASCARA 2 (comparative), having the following compositions were prepared according to the protocol described below:
  • TR SA MIYOSHI
  • DOW CORNING ® FA 4004 SILICONE ID consisting of:
  • TSPL-30-ID-F SHIN-ETSU
  • the mascaras are prepared by mixing the ingredients of the Al phase and then heating them in a water bath at 85 ° C for 30 minutes. When the mixture is melted, the ingredients of phase A2 are added and mixed vigorously with a spatula. The ingredients of phase A3 are mixed in a TURBOTEST shaker (VMI) at room temperature (25 ° C) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Phase A3 is then poured into the mixture of Al + A2 phases, and mixed with a spatula. The resulting mixture is then rolled in an EXAKT 50i three-cylinder mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
  • VMI TURBOTEST shaker
  • MASCARAS 1 and 2 are applied homogeneously on false eyelashes
  • artificial sweat consisting of 99.0% purified water, 0.5% RonaCare ® Urea (Merck) and 0.5% chloride of sodium (Merck)
  • MASCARAS 1 and 2 The visual appearance of MASCARAS 1 and 2 in each of these media is observed and presented in Figure 1. Both MASCARAS 1 and 2 have good resistance to transpiration and sebum (absence of mascara dissolution and particle formation solids).
  • the adhesion test is performed as in Example 1 with the aid of an automatic spreader and a bar of 100 ⁇ m gap. The samples are then dried for 3 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity.
  • the MASCARA 1 has a very good adhesion, the mascara film remaining almost entirely on the contrast card, while the MASCARA 2 is completely off the contrast card.
  • the wettability test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1, by measuring at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on the films from the compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2.
  • the compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2 thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
  • the flexibility test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1.
  • the mascaras having a dry extract of 49.25%, 6.10 g of mascara are placed in the molds to obtain 3 g of dry film.
  • Resilience is the ability of the film to restore energy caused by deformation (0%: no shape recovery - 100%: perfectly elastic).
  • the relaxation corresponds to the time necessary for the film to return to its original shape after two successive stretches (0%: no relaxation - 100%: immediate relaxation).
  • the representative MASCARA 1 of the invention has better mechanical performance in terms of flexibility and flexibility than the MASCARA 2 representative of the prior art.
  • the MASCARA 1 is more natural to the touch, and has a less cardboard effect than the MASCARA 2.
  • a foundation according to the invention having the following composition was prepared according to the method below:
  • the foundation is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase Al with a RAYNERI VMI stirrer at room temperature.
  • the Al and A2 phases are then mixed in a RAYNERI VMI stirrer and then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX ® (IKA) at 5000 rpm until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
  • IKA ULTRA TURRAX ®
  • Ingredient A3 is then added to phases A1 and A2 and then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX ® (IKA) at 8000 rpm until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
  • IKA ULTRA TURRAX ®
  • the foundation of the invention has particularly remarkable flexibility and holding properties, consistent with those sought for the invention.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a film-forming composition comprising: (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy methacrylate and/or acrylate/polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and (iv) a volatile solvent. The invention also targets the use of such a composition for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips, and more particularly in foundations, lipsticks and semi-permanent mascaras.

Description

COMPOSITION FILMOGÈNE À BASE DE PULLULAN, ET SES UTILISATIONS DANS DES COMPOSITIONS COSMÉTIQUES POUR LE MAQUILLAGE ET/OU LE SOIN DES MATIÈRES KÉRATI NIQUES, DE LA PEAU ET DES LÈVRES  PULLULAN-BASED FILMOGENIC COMPOSITION AND USES THEREOF IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATIAL MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIPS
La présente invention a trait à une nouvelle composition filmogène, et à son utilisation dans le domaine de la cosmétique. Plus particulièrement, la présente invention concerne une nouvelle composition comprenant un nouveau mélange d'ingrédients à base de trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane, et de résine polysilsesquioxane.  The present invention relates to a novel film-forming composition, and to its use in the field of cosmetics. More particularly, the present invention relates to a novel composition comprising a novel blend of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer, and polysilsesquioxane resin ingredients.
L'invention vise aussi des compositions et procédés de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques, de la peau et des lèvres, comprenant une étape d'application d'une composition selon l'invention. Des mascaras, fonds de teint et rouges à lèvres comprenant une composition selon l'invention sont également des objets de l'invention. Enfin, un kit de maquillage comprenant une telle composition fait également partie de l'invention.  The invention also relates to compositions and methods for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, skin and lips, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention. Mascaras, foundations and lipsticks comprising a composition according to the invention are also objects of the invention. Finally, a makeup kit comprising such a composition is also part of the invention.
ETAT DE L'ART ANTÉRIEUR ET BUT DE L'INVENTION  STATE OF THE PRIOR ART AND PURPOSE OF THE INVENTION
Les compositions cosmétiques pour le maquillage et/ou le soin doivent répondre à un cahier des charges complexe comprenant une multitude de critères. On peut citer par exemple la stabilité et la tenue du produit au cours du temps, le confort lors de son application et au cours du temps une fois appliqué. Toutefois, ces critères sont difficiles à satisfaire simultanément : par exemple, augmenter la tenue d'un produit de maquillage conduit très fréquemment à une diminution du confort ressenti par l'utilisatrice, liée à un dessèchement, des sensations de collant, ou une lourdeur du dépôt sur les matières kératiniques, la peau ou les lèvres.  The cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care must meet a complex set of specifications comprising a multitude of criteria. For example, the stability and stability of the product over time, the comfort during its application and over time once applied. However, these criteria are difficult to meet simultaneously: for example, increasing the strength of a makeup product very frequently leads to a decrease in comfort felt by the user, related to drying out, feeling of stickiness, or heaviness of the deposit on keratin materials, skin or lips.
II existe donc un besoin de maintenir la tenue (adhésion) des produits de maquillage et/ou de soin sur une longue durée, c'est-à-dire pendant au moins 24 heures, tout en conservant leur souplesse et leur confort d'application.  There is therefore a need to maintain the hold (adhesion) of makeup and / or care products over a long period of time, that is to say for at least 24 hours, while maintaining their flexibility and ease of application. .
Le pullulan est connu de la demande US 2003/0082221 pour son utilisation comme agent filmogène non collant dans le domaine cométique. Le pullulan est un polysaccharide naturel (polymère d'osé) constitué d'unités de maltotriose (un triholoside de glucose), aussi connu comme l'alpha-1,4- ; alpha-l,6-glucane. Les trois unités de glucose qui composent le maltotriose sont reliées par une liaison osidique du type alpha-1,4, tandis que les maltotrioses sont connectés entre eux par des liaisons osidiques du type alpha-1,6. Le pullulan est produit à partir de l'amidon par le champignon Aureobasidium pullulans. The pullulan is known from the application US 2003/0082221 for its use as a non-sticking film-forming agent in the cometic field. Pullulan is a natural polysaccharide (oste polymer) consisting of maltotriose units (a glucose triholoside), also known as alpha-1,4-; alpha-l, 6-glucan. The three units of glucose that make up maltotriose are linked by an alpha-1,4-type osidic linkage, while maltotrioses are connected to each other by links. α-1,6-type osidics. Pullulan is produced from starch by the mushroom Aureobasidium pullulans.
Des dérivés du pullulan du type trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan sont également couramment utilisés dans les produits de maquillage. La demande KR2015100201 décrit par exemple des compositions cosmétiques eau-dans-huile très douces à base de polymère uréthane, d'une ou plusieurs espèces choisies parmi une résine silicone, le triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan et un copolymère silicone acrylique, et une gomme silicone ou un polymère silicone. La demande WO2014181747 décrit également des compositions cosmétiques, et notamment de mascara, à base de triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, faciles à appliquer et présentant une bonne adhérence, sans effet collant, ainsi qu'un bon effet de rétention.  Pullulan derivatives of the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan type are also commonly used in make-up products. Application KR2015100201 describes, for example, very soft water-in-oil cosmetic compositions based on urethane polymer, one or more species selected from a silicone resin, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan and an acrylic silicone copolymer, and a silicone gum or a polymer silicone. The application WO2014181747 also describes cosmetic compositions, including mascara, based on trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, easy to apply and having good adhesion, no sticky effect, and a good retention effect.
Toutefois, l'association de pullulan à un copolymère acrylate et une résine polysilsesquioxane spécifiques pour obtenir des compositions présentant une tenue (adhésion) dans le temps nettement améliorée n'a jamais été décrite, ni suggérée, dans l'état de l'art.  However, the combination of pullulan with an acrylate copolymer and a specific polysilsesquioxane resin to obtain compositions with significantly improved adhesion over time has never been described or suggested in the state of the art.
Un des objectifs de la présente invention consiste donc à proposer une composition filmogène alliant longue tenue (supérieure à 24 heures) et confort d'application. Cette composition permet de formuler des produits pour le maquillage de la peau et/ou des matières kératiniques tels que des mascaras, fonds de teint et rouges à lèvres, qui laissent une sensation de douceur et de souplesse sur les matières kératiniques, la peau et les lèvres, sans effet cartonné. C'est de façon inattendue que les Inventeurs ont découvert que la combinaison d'un composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan avec un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane et une résine polysilsesquioxane, conduit à un effet de synergie, permettant la formulation de compositions filmogènes qui laissent une sensation souple, légère, douce, non grasse et non collante, tout en présentant une adhésion significativement améliorée, et donc une résistance à l'eau, au sébum et à la transpiration, ainsi qu'aux frottements, supérieure à celle des compositions de l'art antérieur.  One of the objectives of the present invention is therefore to provide a film-forming composition combining long-lasting (greater than 24 hours) and comfort of application. This composition makes it possible to formulate products for the make-up of the skin and / or keratin materials such as mascaras, foundations and lipsticks, which leave a feeling of softness and suppleness on the keratin materials, the skin and the skin. lips, without cardboard effect. Unexpectedly, the inventors have discovered that the combination of a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound with an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer and a polysilsesquioxane resin leads to a synergistic effect, allowing the formulation of film-forming compositions. which leave a soft, light, soft, non-greasy and non-sticky feeling, while having a significantly improved adhesion, and therefore higher resistance to water, sebum and perspiration, as well as to friction, than compositions of the prior art.
DESCRIPTION DE L'INVENTION  DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Selon un premier aspect, la présente invention a pour objet une composition filmogène comprenant :  According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a film-forming composition comprising:
(i) un composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, (ii) un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou un copolymère acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane, (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound, (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or an acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer,
(iii) une résine polysilsesquioxane, et  (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and
(iv) un solvant volatil.  (iv) a volatile solvent.
Le trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan de l'invention est avantageusement un trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan dans lequel les groupes alkyles sont de préférence en Ci-Q. De manière encore plus avantageuse, le trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan de l'invention est le triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.  The trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is advantageously a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan in which the alkyl groups are preferably C 1 -C 5. Even more advantageously, the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan of the invention is trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
Ainsi, selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, la composition filmogène comprend :  Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the film-forming composition comprises:
(i) du triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan,  (i) trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan,
(ii) un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou un copolymère acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane,  (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or an acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer,
(iii) une résine polysilsesquioxane, et  (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and
(iv) un solvant volatil.  (iv) a volatile solvent.
Dans la composition filmogène de l'invention, le composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) peut représenter de 0,5 à 30%, de préférence de 1 à 15%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  In the film-forming composition of the invention, the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and still more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
Le copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) représente de préférence de 0,5 à 30%, plus préférentiellement de 1 à 15%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) preferably represents from 0.5 to 30%, more preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulièrement avantageux de l'invention, le copolymère (ii) est un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate.  According to another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the copolymer (ii) is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
Dans la composition filmogène de l'invention, la résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) est avantageusement une résine de formule (R-Si03/2)x, dans laquelle : In the film-forming composition of the invention, the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is advantageously a resin of formula (R-SiO 3/2 ) x , in which:
R représente un radical alkyle en Ci-C20, un radical alcényle en C1-C20, un radical cycloalkyle en C3-Ci2, un radical aryle en C4-C12, ou un radical aralkyle en Ci-C20, et R represents a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, a C 4 -C 12 aryl radical, or a C 1 -C 20 aralkyl radical, and
x est un entier allant de 1 à 500.  x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par :  For the purposes of the present invention, the following terms mean:
Alkyle : un groupe aliphatique hydrocarboné saturé, linéaire ou ramifié, en C1-C20, de préférence en C1-C12, plus préférentiellement en Ci-C6, et encore plus préférentiellement en Q-Q. Le terme « ramifié » signifie qu'au moins un groupe alkyle inférieur tel qu'un méthyle ou un éthyle est porté par une chaîne alkyle linéaire. A titre de groupe alkyle, on peut mentionner par exemple les groupes méthyle, éthyle, n- propyle, i-propyle, n-butyle, t-butyle et n-pentyle. Alkyl: a saturated, linear or branched, C 1 -C 20 , preferably C 1 -C 12, more preferably C 1 -C 6 , saturated hydrocarbon aliphatic group, and even more preferentially in QQ. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkyl chain. As the alkyl group, there may be mentioned, for example, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, i-propyl, n-butyl, t-butyl and n-pentyl.
- Alcényle : un groupe aliphatique hydrocarboné insaturé comprenant une double liaison covalente entre deux atomes de carbone, linéaire ou ramifié, en C2-C2o, de préférence en C2-Ci2, plus préférentiellement en C2-C6, et encore plus préférentiellement en C2- . Le terme « ramifié » signifie qu'au moins un groupe alkyle inférieur tel qu'un méthyle ou un éthyle est porté par une chaîne alcényle linéaire. A titre de groupe alcényle, on peut mentionner par exemple les groupes éthylène, propylène, n-butylène, t-butylène et n-pentylène. Alkenyl: an unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbon group comprising a covalent double bond between two carbon atoms, linear or branched, C 2 -C 2 O, preferably C 2 -C 12 , more preferably C 2 -C 6 , and even more preferably in C 2 -. The term "branched" means that at least one lower alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl is carried by a linear alkenyl chain. Examples of alkenyl groups that may be mentioned are ethylene, propylene, n-butylene, t-butylene and n-pentylene.
Cycloalkyle : tout groupe fonctionnel ou substituant dérivé d'un cycle non aromatique comportant au moins 3 atomes de carbone, et de préférence en C3-Q2, comportant éventuellement, de façon optionnelle, un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes choisis parmi P, S, 0 et N. Parmi de tels groupes, on peut notamment citer le cyclopropyle, le cyclobutyle, le cyclopentyle, le cyclohexyle ; le groupe cyclohexyle étant préféré.  Cycloalkyl: any functional group or substituent derived from a non-aromatic ring having at least 3 carbon atoms, and preferably C3-Q2, optionally optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from P, S, O and N Among such groups, there may be mentioned cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl; the cyclohexyl group being preferred.
Aryle : tout groupe fonctionnel ou substituant dérivé d'au moins un cycle aromatique ; un cycle aromatique correspond à tout groupe mono- ou polycyclique plan comportant un système π délocalisé dans lequel chaque atome du cycle comporte une orbitale p, lesdites orbitales p se recouvrant les unes les autres ; parmi de tels groupes aryle, on peut mentionner les groupes phényle, biphényle, naphthalène et anthracène. Les groupes aryles de l'invention comprennent de préférence de 4 à 12 atomes de carbone, et de manière encore plus préférée de 5 ou 6 atomes de carbone. De manière encore plus préférée, le groupe aryle de l'invention est un groupe phényle.  Aryl: any functional group or substituent derived from at least one aromatic ring; an aromatic ring corresponds to any planar mono- or polycyclic group comprising a delocalized π system in which each atom of the cycle comprises an orbital p, said orbital p overlapping each other; among such aryl groups there may be mentioned phenyl, biphenyl, naphthalene and anthracene groups. The aryl groups of the invention preferably comprise from 4 to 12 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 5 to 6 carbon atoms. Even more preferably, the aryl group of the invention is a phenyl group.
- Aralkyle : tout groupe dérivé d'un groupe alkyle tel que défini ci-dessus dans lequel un atome d'hydrogène est remplacé par un groupe aryle.  Aralkyl: any group derived from an alkyl group as defined above in which a hydrogen atom is replaced by an aryl group.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, la résine polysilsesquioxane (in) est une résine polyalkylsilsesquioxane ou polyarylsilsesquioxane choisie parmi les résines polyméthylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphénylsilsesquioxane, et leurs mélanges.  According to a preferred embodiment, the polysilsesquioxane resin (in) is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane and polyphenylsilsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.
Ladite résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) peut représenter de 1 à 40%, de préférence de 1 à 25%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5 à 15%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  Said polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 25%, and even more preferably from 5 to 15%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
Dans la composition filmogène de l'invention : le taux en poids du composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) peut représenter de 10 à 35% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), In the film-forming composition of the invention: the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 10 to 35% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
le taux en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) peut représenter de 15 à 40% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et  the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 40% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
le taux en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) peut représenter de 30 à 70% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii).  the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 30 to 70% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
Avantageusement, dans la composition filmogène de l'invention :  Advantageously, in the film-forming composition of the invention:
le taux en poids du composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) peut représenter de 10 à 25% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii),  the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) may represent from 10 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
le taux en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) peut représenter de 15 à 30% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et  the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
le taux en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) peut représenter de 50 à 70% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii).  the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) may represent from 50 to 70% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
De manière encore plus avantageuse, dans la composition filmogène de l'invention :  Even more advantageously, in the film-forming composition of the invention:
le taux en poids du composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) peut représenter de 10 à 20% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii),  the proportion by weight of the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) can represent from 10 to 20% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
le taux en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) peut représenter de 15 à 25% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et  the proportion by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) can represent from 15 to 25% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
le taux en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) peut représenter de 50 à 65% en poids du poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii).  the weight ratio of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) can represent from 50 to 65% by weight of the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
De préférence, la composition filmogène de l'invention comprend :  Preferably, the film-forming composition of the invention comprises:
de 10 à 25% en poids de triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii),  from 10 to 25% by weight of trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
de 15 à 30% en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et  from 15 to 30% by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
de 50 à 70% en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii).  from 50 to 70% by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
Dans un autre de réalisation particulièrement avantageux de l'invention, le ratio en poids des composants (i), (ii) et (iii) est compris dans la gamme 1/1/1 à 1/5/10, et encore plus avantageusement dans la gamme 1/1/3 à 1/2/4. Selon un mode de réalisation encore plus avantageux, il est de 1/1,5/3,5. In another particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the ratio by weight of components (i), (ii) and (iii) is in the range 1/1/1 to 1/5/10, and even more preferably in the range 1/1/3 to 1/2/4. According to an even more advantageous embodiment, it is 1 / 1.5 / 3.5.
Ces modes de réalisation préférés de l'invention présentent des propriétés de tenue et de confort tout à fait remarquables.  These preferred embodiments of the invention have quite remarkable holding and comfort properties.
La composition filmogène de l'invention comprend également au moins un solvant volatil (ou huile volatile) (iv). Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « solvant volatil », un solvant susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante (25°C) et pression atmosphérique (750 mm Hg, soit 105 Pa). Le solvant volatil est liquide à température ambiante, et présente une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, et notamment une pression de vapeur allant de 0,13 Pa à 40 000 Pa, en particulier allant de 1,3 Pa à 13 000 Pa, et plus particulièrement allant de 1,3 Pa à 1 300 Pa. Le solvant volatil (iv) de l'invention peut être un solvant hydrocarboné, siliconé, ou leurs mélanges. Ces solvants peuvent être d'origine animale, végétale, minérale ou synthétique. Selon une variante de réalisation, les solvants d'origine végétale sont préférés. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « solvant siliconé », un solvant comprenant au moins un atome de silicium, et notamment au moins un groupe Si-O. On entend par « solvant hydrocarboné », un solvant contenant principalement des atomes d'hydrogène et de carbone. Les solvants peuvent éventuellement comprendre des atomes d'oxygène, d'azote, de soufre et/ou de phosphore, par exemple, sous la forme de radicaux hydroxyles ou acides. On peut notamment citer parmi les solvants volatils hydrocarbonés ayant de 8 à 16 atomes de carbone les alcanes ramifiés en C8-C16 comme les iso-alcanes (appelées aussi isoparaffines) en C8- Ci6 comme l'isododécane, l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, les esters ramifiés en C8-Ci6 comme le néopentanoate d'iso-hexyle, et leurs mélanges. De préférence, le solvant volatil hydrocarboné est choisi parmi l'isododécane, l'isodécane, l'isohexadécane, et est plus préférentiel lement l'isododécane. On peut également citer les alcanes linéaires en C8-C16, en particulier en Cio-C15, et plus particulièrement en Cn-Ci3, ainsi que leurs mélanges, comme le mélange undécane-tridécane. Comme solvants volatils siliconés, on peut citer les solvants volatils siliconés linéaires tels que l'hexaméthyldisiloxane, l'octaméthyltrisiloxane, le décaméthyltétrasiloxane, le tétradécaméthylhexasiloxane, l'hexadécaméthylheptasiloxane et le dodécaméthylpentasiloxane. Comme solvants volatils siliconés cycliques, on peut citer la cyclopentasiloxane, l'hexaméthylcyclotrisiloxane, l'octaméthylcylotétrasiloxane, le décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane et le dodécaméthylcyclohexasiloxane. The film-forming composition of the invention also comprises at least one volatile solvent (or volatile oil) (iv). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile solvent" means a solvent capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg, 105 Pa). The volatile solvent is liquid at ambient temperature, and has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa, in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 13 000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa. The volatile solvent (iv) of the invention may be a hydrocarbon solvent, silicone, or mixtures thereof. These solvents can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the solvents of vegetable origin are preferred. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone solvent" means a solvent comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "hydrocarbon solvent" means a solvent containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The solvents may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals. Mention may be made from hydrocarbon volatile solvents having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, branched alkanes, C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also called isoparaffins), C 8 - Ci 6 as isododecane, isodecane , isohexadecane, branched C 8 -C esters 6 as neopentanoate isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon solvent is chosen from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is more preferably isododecane. Linear alkanes may also include C8-C16, in particular Cio-C 15, more particularly C n -C 3, and mixtures thereof, such as undecane-tridecane mixture. Silicone volatile solvents that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile solvents such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Cyclic silicone volatile solvents that may be mentioned include cyclopentasiloxane, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
Le solvant volatil (iv) est avantageusement choisi parmi l'isododécane, l'isohexadecane, la cyclopentasiloxane, ou leurs mélanges. De manière particulièrement avantageuse, le solvant volatil (iv) est l'isododécane.  The volatile solvent (iv) is advantageously chosen from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof. Particularly advantageously, the volatile solvent (iv) is isododecane.
Le solvant volatil (iv) peut représenter de 10 à 70%, de préférence de 15 à 65%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 20 à 60%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The volatile solvent (iv) may represent from 10 to 70%, preferably from 15 to 65%, and even more preferably from 20 to 60%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut également contenir des ingrédients cosmétiques conduisant à des effets complémentaires tels que des agents hydratants, structurants ou de coloration.  The film-forming composition of the invention may also contain cosmetic ingredients leading to complementary effects such as moisturizing, structuring or staining agents.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut notamment comprendre au moins un élastomère de silicone, différent de la résine polysilsesquioxane (iii), présentant des propriétés viscoélastiques. L'élastomère de silicone utilisé dans la présente invention améliore le toucher de la composition filmogène ; elle présente également une fonction floutante et matifiante. Ledit élastomère de silicone est avantageusement choisi parmi le polydiméthylsiloxane (PDMS) (ou diméthicone), le méthyl-polysiloxane ( Q), le vinyl-méthyl-polysiloxane (VMQ), le phényl-vinyl-méthyl-polysiloxane (PVMQ), le fluoro-vinyl-méthyl-polysiloxane (FVMQ), et leurs mélanges. L'élastomère de silicone de l'invention se présente généralement sous la forme d'un gel, d'une pâte ou d'une poudre.  The film-forming composition of the invention may in particular comprise at least one silicone elastomer, different from the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii), having viscoelastic properties. The silicone elastomer used in the present invention improves the feel of the film-forming composition; it also has a fuzzy and matifying function. Said silicone elastomer is advantageously chosen from polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) (or dimethicone), methyl-polysiloxane (Q), vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (VMQ), phenyl-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (PVMQ), fluoro -vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane (FVMQ), and mixtures thereof. The silicone elastomer of the invention is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder.
L'élastomère de silicone de l'invention peut représenter de 0,05 à 10%, et de préférence de 0,1 à 10%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The silicone elastomer of the invention may represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 10%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
Un polymère filmogène peut aussi être présent dans la composition filmogène de l'invention. On entend par « polymère filmogène », un polymère apte à former un film continu sur un support, ledit support pouvant être constitué de fibres dont la forme et les dimensions sont celles de fibres kératiniques. Dans le texte, le mot polymère peut désigner un homopolymère ou un copolymère. Par « copolymère », on entend un polymère comprenant au moins deux monomères ou deux blocs différents, pouvant être de la même famille chimique mais de structure différente. Le polymère filmogène peut être d'origine naturelle ou synthétique, et est avantageusement choisi parmi :  A film-forming polymer may also be present in the film-forming composition of the invention. The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support, said support possibly consisting of fibers whose shape and dimensions are those of keratinous fibers. In the text, the word polymer may designate a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant a polymer comprising at least two different monomers or two blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure. The film-forming polymer may be of natural or synthetic origin, and is advantageously chosen from:
- les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP), et de préférence les copolymères de VP et d'alcène en C2-C2o, tels que les copolymères de VP/eicosène, VP/acétate de vinyle, VP/méthacrylate d'éthyle, VP/méthacrylate d'éthyle/acide méthacrylique, VP/hexadécène, VP/triacontène, VP/styrène, VP/acide acrylique/méthacrylate de lauryle, la polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP) butylée, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), and preferably copolymers of VP and C 2 -C 2 alkene, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / acetate of vinyl, VP / ethyl methacrylate, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated,
- les copolymères d'un ester vinylique, et de préférence les copolymères acétate de vinyle/stéarate d'allyle, acétate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, acétate de vinyle/stéarate de vinyle, acétate de vinyle/octadécène, acétate de vinyle/octadécylvinyléther, propionate de vinyle/laurate d'allyle, propionate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, stéarate de vinyle/octadécène- 1, acétate de vinyle/dodécène- 1, stéarate de vinyle/éthylvinyléther, propionate de vinyle/cétyl vinyl éther, stéarate de vinyle/acétate d'allyle, diméthyl-2,2-octanoate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, diméthyl- 2,2-pentanoate d'allyle/laurate de vinyle, diméthyl propionate de vinyle/stéarate de vinyle, diméthyl propionate d'allyle/stéarate de vinyle,  copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethylenate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate vinyl stearate,
- les polyoléfines ou polyalphaoléfines, hydrogénées ou non hydrogénées, et de préférence les polymères ou copolymères d'alcènes en C2-C20, tels que les polybutènes, les polyisobutènes, les polydécènes, polyolefins or polyalphaolefins, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, and preferably polymers or copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes, polydecenes,
- les alkylcelluloses, et de préférence les alkylcelluloses porteurs d'un groupe alkyle en C2-C6, tels que l'éthylcellulose et la propylcellulose, alkylcelluloses, and preferably alkylcelluloses bearing a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
- les alcools polyvinyliques, et  polyvinyl alcohols, and
- leurs mélanges.  - their mixtures.
Le polymère filmogène représente de préférence de 0,5 à 10%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The film-forming polymer preferably represents from 0.5 to 10%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
La composition filmogène selon l'invention peut également comprendre au moins une matière colorante avantageusement choisie parmi les pigments et les nacres. Les particules constituant ces matières colorantes ont de préférence un diamètre ne dépassant pas 200 μιη, et encore plus préférentiellement ne dépassant pas 150 pm.  The film-forming composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff advantageously chosen from pigments and nacres. The particles constituting these dyestuffs preferably have a diameter not exceeding 200 μιη, and even more preferably not exceeding 150 μιτι.
Par « pigments », il faut comprendre des particules blanches ou colorées, minérales ou organiques, enrobés ou non, insolubles dans une phase aqueuse, destinées à colorer et/ou opacifier la composition filmogène les contenant. Parmi les pigments utilisables dans la composition filmogène de l'invention, on cite le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium, de zinc ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome, le bleu ferrique, le noir de carbone, et leurs mélanges. Il peut également s'agir d'un pigment ayant une structure qui peut être par exemple de type séricite/oxyde de fer brun/dioxyde de titane/silice. Il peut encore s'agir de pigments ayant une structure qui peut être, par exemple, de type microsphères de silice contenant de l'oxyde de fer. De manière avantageuse, les pigments de l'invention sont des oxydes de fer et/ou des dioxydes de titane. By "pigments" is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, coated or not, insoluble in an aqueous phase, intended to color and / or opacify the film-forming composition containing them. Among the pigments that may be used in the film-forming composition of the invention, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide, zinc oxide or cerium oxide, as well as iron or chromium oxides, and manganese violet. , ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, carbon black, and mixtures thereof. It can also be a pigment having a structure that can be for example of the type sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. It may also be pigments having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres type containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments of the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.
Par « nacres », il faut comprendre des particules colorées de toute forme, irisées ou non, notamment produites par certains mollusques dans leur coquille ou bien synthétisées, et qui présentent un effet de couleur par interférence optique. Parmi les nacres utilisables dans la composition filmogène de l'invention, on cite les pigments nacrés blancs tels que le mica recouvert de titane ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth. Il peut également s'agir de particules de mica à la surface desquelles sont superposées au moins deux couches successives d'oxydes métalliques et/ou de matières colorantes organiques. On peut également citer, à titre d'exemple de nacres, le mica naturel recouvert d'oxyde de titane, d'oxyde de fer, de pigment naturel ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth. Les nacres peuvent plus particulièrement posséder une couleur ou un reflet jaune, rose, rouge, bronze, orangé, brun, or et/ou cuivré. De manière avantageuse, les nacres de l'invention sont des micas recouverts de dioxyde de titane ou d'oxyde de fer, ainsi que d'oxychlorure de bismuth.  By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Among the nacres usable in the film-forming composition of the invention, mention is made of white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. Advantageously, the nacres of the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide, as well as with bismuth oxychloride.
La matière colorante peut être traitée par un agent organique qui est déposé à la surface de la matière colorante par évaporation de solvant, réaction chimique, ou création de liaisons covalentes entre l'agent organique et la matière colorante. De manière avantageuse, l'agent organique est une silicone ou un acide aminé. La matière colorante est de préférence un pigment enrobé par une couche de silicone, plus préférentiel lement par une couche de méthicone, de diméthicone (aussi appelée polydiméthylsiloxane (PDMS)), de diméthicone hydrogéné, d'un copolymère diméthicone-méthicone, d'un copolymère acrylate-diméthicone, et encore plus préférentiellement par une couche de diméthicone. De manière particulièrement avantageuse, la matière colorante est un pigment choisi parmi les oxydes de fer et/ou les dioxydes de titane, enrobés dans une couche de diméthicone.  The coloring material may be treated with an organic agent which is deposited on the surface of the coloring material by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction, or creation of covalent bonds between the organic agent and the coloring material. Advantageously, the organic agent is a silicone or an amino acid. The coloring material is preferably a pigment coated with a silicone layer, more preferably with a layer of methicone, dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)), hydrogenated dimethicone, a dimethicone-methicone copolymer, a acrylate-dimethicone copolymer, and even more preferably by a dimethicone layer. Particularly advantageously, the dyestuff is a pigment selected from iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides coated in a dimethicone layer.
La composition filmogène de l'invention comprend avantageusement de 5% à 20% en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 15% en poids de matière colorante par rapport au poids total de la composition filmogène. La composition filmogène de l'invention peut également comprendre au moins une cire destinée à épaissir le film et donner une texture plus visqueuse à la composition lors de son application. Par « cire », on entend un composé lipophile, solide à température ambiante (à 25°C), à changement d'état solide/liquide réversible, ayant un point de fusion supérieur ou égal à 30°C pouvant aller jusqu'à 200°C, et notamment jusqu'à 120°C. Au sens de la présente invention, la température de fusion correspond à la température du pic le plus endothermique observé en analyse thermique (DSC) telle que décrite dans la norme ISO 11357-3 : 1999. Le point de fusion de la cire peut être mesuré à l'aide d'un calorimètre à balayage différentiel (DSC). Les cires susceptibles d'être utilisées dans le cadre de la présente invention sont des cires solides à température ambiante d'origine animale, végétale, minérale, les cires de synthèse, ou leurs mélanges. Elles peuvent donc être d'origine naturelle ou synthétique. Les cires de l'invention peuvent être polaires ou apolaires, hydrocarbonées siliconées et/ou fluorées, et comporter éventuellement des fonctions ester ou hydroxyle. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « cire apolaire » une cire dont le paramètre de solubilité à 25°C est égal à 0 (J.cm 3)1 2. La définition et le calcul du paramètre de solubilité est décrit dans l'article de C. M. Hansen : « The three dimensionnal solubility parameters », J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). Les cires apolaires sont en particulier les cires hydrocarbonées constituées uniquement d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène et exempte d'hétéroatomes tel qu'un atome d'oxygène, d'azote, de silicium ou de phosphore. Les cires apolaires sont choisies parmi les cires microcristallines, les cires de paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, et leurs mélanges. Au sens de la présente invention, on entend par « cire polaire » une cire dont le paramètre de solubilité à 25°C est différent de 0 (J.cm"3)1 2. En particulier, par « cire polaire », on entend une cire dont la structure chimique est formée essentiellement, voire constituée, d'atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et comprenant au moins un hétéroatome fortement électronégatif tel qu'un atome d'oxygène, d'azote, de silicium ou de phosphore. The film-forming composition of the invention advantageously comprises from 5% to 20% by weight and preferably from 5% to 15% by weight of dyestuff relative to the total weight of the film-forming composition. The film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise at least one wax intended to thicken the film and give a more viscous texture to the composition during its application. By "wax" is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (at 25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. of up to 200 ° C. ° C, and especially up to 120 ° C. For the purposes of the present invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3: 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC). The waxes that may be used in the context of the present invention are solid waxes at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, synthetic waxes, or mixtures thereof. They can therefore be of natural or synthetic origin. The waxes of the invention may be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbon-based and / or fluorinated, and optionally include ester or hydroxyl functions. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C is equal to 0 (J.cm 3 ) 1 2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameter is described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters", J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free from heteroatoms such as an oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus atom. The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar wax" means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. is different from 0 (J.cm "3 ) 1 2, In particular," polar wax "means a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as oxygen, nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
La cire de l'invention est avantageusement choisie parmi :  The wax of the invention is advantageously chosen from:
- les cires dites « apolaires » telles que les cires microcristallines, les paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de silicone et les cires fluorées, et  so-called "nonpolar" waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, and
les cires dites « polaires », telles que par exemple la cire d'abeille, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire d'Ouricurry, la cire du Japon, la cire de Berry, la cire de Sumac, la cire de Montan, la cire d'Alfa, la cire de fibres de liège, la cire de canne à sucre, la cire d'orange, la cire de citron, la cire de laurier, les cires obtenues par hydrogénation d'huiles animales ou végétales ayant des chaînes grasses, linéaires ou ramifiées, en C8-C32, telles que l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de tournesol, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de lanoline, l'huile d'olive estérifiée avec l'alcool stéarylique, l'huile de ricin estérifiée avec l'alcool cétylique, et so-called "polar" waxes, such as, for example, beeswax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, the wax of Japan, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, wax laurels, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched, C 8 -C 3 fatty chains, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil , coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, and
leurs mélanges.  their mixtures.
A titre de cires particulièrement avantageuses, on peut citer les paraffines, les cires d'abeille et de Candellila, et leurs mélanges.  As particularly advantageous waxes, mention may be made of paraffins, beeswax and Candellila waxes, and mixtures thereof.
La ou les cires de l'invention peuvent être présentes à raison de 1 à 40%, et de préférence de 10 à 30%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The wax or waxes of the invention may be present in a proportion of 1 to 40%, and preferably 10 to 30%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut également comprendre au moins un composé gélifiant avantageusement choisi parmi les argiles naturelles ou synthétiques ; les micas naturels modifiés tel que le fluorosilicate d'aluminium, de magnésium et de potassium ; les esters de dextrine et d'acide gras tels que le palmitate de dextrine ou le myristate de dextrine ; les tri-esters d'acide gras en C8-C30 et de mono- ou poly-glycéryle tel que le tri (hydroxystéa rate) de glycéryle (nom INCI : Trihydroxystearin). Le composé gélifiant de l'invention est de préférence une argile naturelle ou synthétique choisies parmi les bentonites, en particulier les hectorites et les montmorillonites, les beidellites, les saponites, les nontronites, les sépiolites, les biotites, les attapulgites, les vermiculites et les zéolites. De préférence, elles sont choisies parmi les hectorites. On utilise encore plus préférentiellement des hectorites modifiées avec un chlorure d'alkylammonium quaternaire, ledit ammonium étant substitué par au moins un, et de préférence au moins deux radicaux alkyles en Ci4-C20, tel que le distéardimonium hectorite dans lequel l'ammonium comprend deux méthyles et deux stéaryles. The film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise at least one gelling compound advantageously chosen from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as tri (hydroxystearate) of glyceryl (INCI name: Trihydroxystearin). The gelling compound of the invention is preferably a natural or synthetic clay chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Hectorites modified with a quaternary alkylammonium chloride are even more preferably used, said ammonium being substituted with at least one, and preferably at least two, C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals, such as distéardimonium hectorite in which ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.
Le composé gélifiant peut représenter de 0,05 à 10%, et de préférence de 0, 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de la composition filmogène.  The gelling compound may represent from 0.05 to 10%, and preferably from 0.1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of the film-forming composition.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut également comprendre tout additif usuellement utilisé en cosmétique tels que des charges solides, des antioxydants, des conservateurs, des parfums, des agents actifs cosmétiques, comme par exemple des émollients, des hydratants, des vitamines, des filtres solaires, et leurs mélanges.  The film-forming composition of the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as solid fillers, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, and cosmetic active agents, for example emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and filters. solar, and their mixtures.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut être une composition cosmétique, et notamment se présenter sous toutes les formes cosmétiques classiquement utilisées pour des applications sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau, ou les lèvres, telles que les formes solides, liquides, ou même liquides sous pression. Elle peut notamment être formulée sous la forme d'une solution, d'une crème, d'un gel, d'une mousse, d'un produit anhydre, de préférence liquide, pâteux ou solide, par exemple sous forme de bâtonnet, notamment en stick ou en poudre. The film-forming composition of the invention may be a cosmetic composition, and in particular be in any of the cosmetic forms conventionally used. for applications on keratinous fibers, skin, or lips, such as solid, liquid or even liquid forms under pressure. It may especially be formulated in the form of a solution, a cream, a gel, a foam, an anhydrous product, preferably liquid, pasty or solid, for example in the form of a stick, in particular stick or powder.
La composition filmogène de l'invention peut être préparée selon un procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes :  The film-forming composition of the invention may be prepared according to a process comprising the following steps:
(a) mélange à chaud des éventuels cires et polymères filmogènes,  (a) hot mixing of any waxes and film-forming polymers,
(b) ajout de l'éventuelle matière colorante à la préparation obtenue à l'issue de l'étape (a), sous agitation,  (b) adding the optional coloring matter to the preparation obtained after step (a), with stirring,
(c) mélange à température ambiante (25°C) des composants (i), (ii), (iii), et (iv), et d'éventuelles argiles, et  (c) mixing at room temperature (25 ° C) components (i), (ii), (iii), and (iv), and any clays, and
(d) mélange de la préparation obtenue à l'issue de l'étape (b) avec la préparation obtenue à l'issue de l'étape (c), sous agitation.  (d) mixing the preparation obtained at the end of step (b) with the preparation obtained at the end of step (c), with stirring.
L'étape (a) de mélange à chaud peut être réalisée à une température allant de The step (a) of hot mixing can be carried out at a temperature ranging from
50 à 120°C, et de préférence de 70 à 100°C. 50 to 120 ° C, and preferably 70 to 100 ° C.
La matière colorante ajoutée lors de l'étape (b) est de préférence préalablement broyée à sec, par exemple à l'aide d'un broyeur type WARING®. The dyestuff added during step (b) is preferably previously dry milled, for example using a WARING ® type mill.
L'étape (c) de mélange peut être réalisée dans un agitateur tel qu'un agitateur TURBOTEST (V I).  The step (c) of mixing can be carried out in an agitator such as a TURBOTEST (V I) stirrer.
Lorsque la composition filmogène de l'invention est destinée à la formulation de mascaras, le procédé de préparation de ladite composition filmogène peut éventuellement comprendre une étape supplémentaire (e) de broyage de la préparation obtenue à l'issue de l'étape (d) afin d'obtenir une poudre formée de fines particules solides. Cette étape (e) de broyage peut être réalisée dans un broyeur tricylindrique tel qu'un broyeur EXAKT 50i (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).  When the film-forming composition of the invention is intended for the formulation of mascaras, the process for preparing said film-forming composition may optionally comprise an additional step (e) of grinding the preparation obtained at the end of step (d). to obtain a powder formed of fine solid particles. This grinding step (e) can be carried out in a three-roll mill such as an EXAKT 50i mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
L'invention vise également un procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques comprenant une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques, notamment des cils, la peau et/ou les lèvres d'une composition filmogène selon l'invention.  The invention also relates to a process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising a step of application to keratin materials, in particular eyelashes, the skin and / or the lips of a film-forming composition according to the invention.
Un autre objet de l'invention vise un film constitué d'une composition filmogène selon l'invention ayant de préférence une épaisseur allant de 150 à 800 pm. Un objet supplémentaire de l'invention concerne l'utilisation d'une composition filmogène selon l'invention pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques, de la peau et des lèvres. Another object of the invention is a film consisting of a film-forming composition according to the invention preferably having a thickness ranging from 150 to 800 μm. A further object of the invention relates to the use of a film-forming composition according to the invention for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, skin and lips.
Au sens de l'invention, le terme « matières kératiniques » visent les fibres kératiniques humaines tels que les cils, les sourcils et les cheveux, et les fibres kératiniques artificielles tels que les faux-cils. Une composition de maquillage destinée à être appliquée sur des fibres kératiniques est aussi appelée « mascara ».  For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended for human keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows and hair, and artificial keratinous fibers such as false eyelashes. A make-up composition intended to be applied to keratinous fibers is also called "mascara".
Ainsi, la présente invention couvre également des mascaras semi-permanents, des fonds de teint longue tenue, et des rouges à lèvres longue tenue, comprenant une composition filmogène selon l'invention. Ces produits de maquillage allient tenue, confort et souplesse, pendant au moins 24 heures. En particulier, un mascara présente une tenue d'au moins 24 heures, voir 48 heures, et résiste à une journée, une nuit et une douche.  Thus, the present invention also covers semi-permanent mascaras, long-lasting foundations, and long-wearing lipsticks, comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention. These make-up products combine staying, comfort and flexibility for at least 24 hours. In particular, a mascara has a hold of at least 24 hours, or 48 hours, and is resistant to a day, a night and a shower.
Un dernier objet de l'invention concerne un kit de maquillage comprenant une composition filmogène selon l'invention, conditionnée dans un réservoir, ainsi que des moyens de prélèvement et d'application de ladite composition sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau et/ou les lèvres.  A final subject of the invention relates to a make-up kit comprising a film-forming composition according to the invention, packaged in a reservoir, as well as means for taking and applying said composition to the keratinous fibers, the skin and / or the lips.
Le réservoir peut avantageusement être un flacon, un godet ou un pot.  The reservoir may advantageously be a bottle, a bucket or a pot.
Les moyens de prélèvement et d'application peuvent avantageusement être une brosse, un pinceau, une éponge ou une mousse alvéolée.  The sampling and application means may advantageously be a brush, a brush, a sponge or a cellular foam.
Outre les dispositions qui précèdent, l'invention comprend encore d'autres dispositions qui ressortiront du complément de description qui suit, qui se rapporte à la préparation de compositions filmogènes selon l'invention, et aux figures 1 et 2 qui mettent en évidence les propriétés de résistances chimiques et d'adhésion des compositions filmogènes de l'invention.  In addition to the foregoing, the invention also comprises other arrangements which will emerge from the additional description which follows, which relates to the preparation of film-forming compositions according to the invention, and to FIGS. 1 and 2 which highlight the properties chemical resistance and adhesion of the film-forming compositions of the invention.
EXEMPLES EXEMPLE 1 : EXAMPLES EXAMPLE 1
Une composition filmogène selon l'invention (composition 1) et deux compositions représentatives de l'état de l'art (compositions 2 et 3) ont été préparées comme décrit ci-après. La composition 3 est une composition selon la demande WO2014181747. Les trois formulations préparées ont les compositions suivantes (les quantités sont exprimées en % en poids) : A film-forming composition according to the invention (composition 1) and two compositions representative of the state of the art (compositions 2 and 3) were prepared as described below. The composition 3 is a composition according to the application WO2014181747. The three formulations prepared have the following compositions (the amounts are expressed in% by weight):
Figure imgf000015_0001
Figure imgf000015_0001
Les matières premières utilisées sont les suivantes : The raw materials used are as follows:
- Triméthylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan : TSPL-30-ID F (Shin-Etsu Silicone), Trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan: TSPL-30-ID F (Shin-Etsu Silicone),
- Copolymère acrylate/triméthylsiloxyméthacrylate : Dow Corning® FA 4004- Acrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer: Dow Corning® FA 4004
ID, ID,
- Copolymère acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane : KP-550 (Shin-Etsu Silicone), Acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer: KP-550 (Shin-Etsu Silicone),
- Polyméthyisilsesquioxane : SilForm Flexible Resin (Momentive), - Polymethylsilsesquioxane: SilForm Flexible Resin (Momentive),
- Triméthylsiloxysilicate : BELSIL® TMS 805 (Wacker Chemie AG), - Trimethylsiloxysilicate: BELSIL ® TMS 805 (Wacker Chemie AG)
- Isododécane (IIMEOS Oligomers).  - Isododecane (IIMEOS Oligomers).
La résine de polyméthyisilsesquioxane ou de triméthylsiloxysilicate est tout d'abord dispersée dans l'isododécane grâce à un agitateur VMI RAYNERI, à température ambiante. Le triméthylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan est ensuite ajouté, puis le copolymère acrylate/triméthylsiloxyméthacrylate ou le copolymère acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane. The polymethylsilsesquioxane or trimethylsiloxysilicate resin is first dispersed in isododecane by means of a RAYNERI VMI stirrer at room temperature. The trimethylsiloxysilylcarbomoyl pullulan is then added, followed by the acrylate / trimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer or the acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer.
Les tests suivants ont ensuite été réalisés : • Aspect visuel : The following tests were then performed: • Visual aspect :
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées sur des plaques de verre à l'aide d'un étaleur automatique et d'un barreau de 150 pm d'entrefer. Les échantillons sont ensuite séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative. L'aspect visuel des films secs est ensuite observé.  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 μm gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity. The visual aspect of the dry films is then observed.
• Résistance chimique : • Chemical resistance:
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées sur des plaques de verre à l'aide d'un étaleur automatique et d'un barreau de 150 pm d'entrefer. Les échantillons sont ensuite séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative, pour former un film visuellement homogène.  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on glass plates using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 μm gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
Les échantillons séchés sont ensuite placés dans trois milieux de tests distincts : The dried samples are then placed in three separate test media:
- dans une eau à température ambiante (22°C), in a water at room temperature (22 ° C),
- dans une eau à 40°C, et  - in water at 40 ° C, and
- dans un sébum artificiel constitué de 25% en poids d'huile de jojoba dorée - in an artificial sebum consisting of 25% by weight of golden jojoba oil
(Désert Essence), 60% en poids de MIGLYOL® 829 (IOI Oleo GmbH), et 15% en poids de phytosqualan (Sophim), (Desert Essence), 60% by weight of Miglyol 829 ® (IOI Oleo GmbH), and 15% by weight of PHYTOSQUALAN (Sophim)
puis agités à l'aide d'un agitateur magnétique triangulaire (L = 50 mm) IKAMAG® RCT, à une vitesse de 400 tours/minute, pendant une durée de 30 minutes. then stirred with triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) IKAMAG RCT ® at a speed of 400 revolutions / minute, for a period of 30 minutes.
• Test d'adhésion : • Membership test:
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées sur des cartes de contraste Leneta (Form 3B Opacity Chart) à l'aide d'un étaleur automatique et d'un barreau de 150 m d'entrefer. Les échantillons sont ensuite séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative.  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on Leneta contrast cards (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a bar 150 m gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity.
L'adhésion des échantillons est ensuite évaluée grâce à une méthode par quadrillage, en utilisant un instrument ELCOMETER® 1542 Cross Hatch Adhésion Tester 6 X 2 mm. Des incisions sont effectuées sur les échantillons, en maintenant une pression uniforme sur l'instrument ELCOMETER® tout en le déplaçant, pour former un quadrillage. Une bande adhésive (Tesa® 64620) est ensuite placée au centre du quadrillage, puis lissé avec le doigt. Le ruban est ensuite arraché rapidement sous un angle de 60°. The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated using a grid method, using an ELCOMETER ® 1542 Cross Hatch Tester Adhesion Tester 6 X 2 mm. Incisions are made on the samples, maintaining a uniform pressure on the ELCOMETER ® instrument while moving it, to form a grid. An adhesive tape (Tesa ® 64620) is then placed in the center of the grid and smoothed with your finger. The tape is then torn off quickly at an angle of 60 °.
L'adhésion des échantillons est ensuite évaluée selon la norme ISO 2409 : Tableau 1 The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated according to ISO 2409: Table 1
Figure imgf000017_0001
Figure imgf000017_0001
Les résultats des tests visuels, de résistance chimique et d'adhésion sont présentés ci-dessous : The results of visual tests, chemical resistance and adhesion are presented below:
Tableau 2 Table 2
Aspect visuel Adhésion Visual appearance Membership
Composition 1 (invention) Film homogène 3Composition 1 (Invention) Homogeneous Film 3
Composition 2 (comparative) Film homogène 5Composition 2 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5
Composition 3 (comparative) Film homogène 5 La composition 1 représentative de l'invention présente une adhésion supérieure à celle des compositions 2 et 3. La composition 1 résiste également à l'eau à température ambiante, à 40°C, ainsi qu'au sébum. · Test de mouillabilité : Composition 3 (comparative) Homogeneous film 5 The representative composition 1 of the invention has a higher adhesion than that of compositions 2 and 3. The composition 1 also withstands water at room temperature, at 40 ° C., as well as sebum. · Wettability test:
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées sur des cartes de contraste Leneta (Form 3B Opacity Chart) à l'aide d'un étaleur automatique et d'un barreau de 150 pm d'entrefer. Les échantillons sont ensuite séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative, pour former un film visuellement homogène.  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited on Leneta contrast maps (Form 3B Opacity Chart) using an automatic spreader and a bar of 150 μm gap. The samples are then dried for 24 hours, at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity, to form a visually homogeneous film.
Le test est réalisé en mesurant à température ambiante (25°C) l'angle de contact d'une goutte d'eau et d'une goutte de sébum artificiel déposées sur les échantillons, grâce à un instrument Drop Shape Analyzer - DSA100B (Kriiss).  The test is performed by measuring at a room temperature (25 ° C) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on the samples, using a Drop Shape Analyzer instrument - DSA100B (Kriiss ).
L'angle est mesuré juste après le dépôt de la goutte, puis 5 minutes après le dépôt. Si l'angle de la goutte d'eau est supérieur à 90°, le film issu de la composition est considéré comme hydrophobe, dans la mesure où il n'a aucune affinité pour l'eau. Si l'angle de la goutte de sébum est supérieur à 90°, le film issu de la composition est considéré comme lipophobe, dans la mesure où il n'a aucune affinité pour le sébum artificiel. La mesure de l'angle après 5 minutes permet d'évaluer l'évolution de l'affinité entre l'eau/le sébum et le film formé à partir de la composition filmogène de l'invention.  The angle is measured just after the drop is deposited, then 5 minutes after the deposit. If the angle of the drop of water is greater than 90 °, the film from the composition is considered hydrophobic, insofar as it has no affinity for water. If the angle of the sebum drop is greater than 90 °, the film from the composition is considered lipophobic, since it has no affinity for artificial sebum. Measuring the angle after 5 minutes makes it possible to evaluate the evolution of the affinity between water / sebum and the film formed from the film-forming composition of the invention.
L'angle de contact de la goutte d'eau mesuré est supérieur à 100° pour les compositions 1, 2 et 3 (à T = 0 et après 5 min). Les compositions forment ainsi des films particulièrement hydrophobes.  The contact angle of the measured drop of water is greater than 100 ° for compositions 1, 2 and 3 (at T = 0 and after 5 min). The compositions thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
L'angle de contact de la goutte de sébum mesuré pour les compositions 1, 2 et 3 (à T = 0 et après 5 min) est présenté dans le tableau 3 ci-après : The contact angle of the drop of sebum measured for compositions 1, 2 and 3 (at T = 0 and after 5 min) is presented in Table 3 below:
Tableau 3 Table 3
Figure imgf000019_0001
Figure imgf000019_0001
Ces résultats montrent que toutes les compositions forment des films fortement hydrophobes, et que le film obtenu à partir de la composition 1 de l'invention se distingue par une meilleure résistance au sébum (et donc à la transpiration) que ceux formés à partir des compositions 2 et 3. En outre, il n'y a pas d'étalement de la goutte de sébum dans le temps sur l'échantillon revêtu de la composition 1. Le film formé à partir de la composition de l'invention se distingue par une plus faible affinité avec le sébum, il lui résiste donc bien mieux que les films formés à partir des compositions 2 et 3 de l'art antérieur. These results show that all the compositions form highly hydrophobic films, and that the film obtained from the composition 1 of the invention is distinguished by a better resistance to sebum (and therefore to perspiration) than those formed from the compositions 2 and 3. In addition, there is no spread of the drop of sebum over time on the sample coated with the composition 1. The film formed from the composition of the invention is distinguished by a lower affinity with sebum, so it resists it much better than the films formed from compositions 2 and 3 of the prior art.
• Test de flexibilité : • Flexibility test:
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées dans des moules en silicone (105 mm X 50 mm) pour avoir 3 g de film sec. Les échantillons sont séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative. Les films formés après séchage sont ensuite décollés délicatement des moules, puis enroulés sur des cylindres de différents diamètres, en commençant par le cylindre ayant le diamètre (0) le plus large (0 = 5 mm, 0 = 10 mm, ø = 20 mm, 0 = 30 mm, ø = 40 mm et ø = 50 mm).  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm × 50 mm) to obtain 3 g of dry film. The samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity. The films formed after drying are then gently peeled off the molds and then wound on rolls of different diameters, starting with the cylinder having the widest diameter (0) (0 = 5 mm, 0 = 10 mm, ø = 20 mm , 0 = 30 mm, ø = 40 mm and ø = 50 mm).
Si le film casse lors du test, la valeur de la flexibilité est celle du dernier diamètre sur lequel le film. Si le film reste intact jusqu'à la fin du test, la valeur de la flexibilité correspond au diamètre la plus petit existant sur l'arbre flexible, Le. 0 = 5 mm.  If the film breaks during the test, the value of the flexibility is that of the last diameter on which the film. If the film remains intact until the end of the test, the value of the flexibility corresponds to the smallest diameter existing on the flexible shaft, Le. 0 = 5 mm.
Les résultats du test de flexibilité sont présentés dans le tableau 4 ci-après : Tableau 4 The results of the flexibility test are presented in Table 4 below: Table 4
Figure imgf000020_0001
Figure imgf000020_0001
• Test de souplesse : • Flexibility test:
Les compositions 1 à 3 sont déposées dans des moules en silicone (105 mm X 50 mm) pour avoir 3 g de film. Les échantillons sont séchés pendant 24 heures, à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative, pour former un film. Leur souplesse est ensuite évaluée au moyen d'un texturometre TA.XTPIus avec un support pour film cinq trous HDP/FSR 5 et une sphère 5 mm P/5S.  The compositions 1 to 3 are deposited in silicone molds (105 mm X 50 mm) to have 3 g of film. The samples are dried for 24 hours at 25 ° C and 50% relative humidity to form a film. Their flexibility is then evaluated using a TA.XTPIus texturometer with a support for five-hole film HDP / FSR 5 and a sphere 5 mm P / 5S.
Conditions de mesure :  Measurement conditions:
- Force de détection : 0,1 g,  - Detection force: 0.1 g,
- Vitesse de chute : 0,5 mm/s,  - Falling speed: 0.5 mm / s,
- Distance de chute : 2 mm,  - Distance of fall: 2 mm,
- Vitesse d'écoulement : 0,5 mm/s, et  - Flow rate: 0.5 mm / s, and
- Trois mesures/trou sur cinq trous.  - Three measurements / hole on five holes.
Les résultats du test de souplesse sont présentés dans le tableau 5 ci-après : The results of the flexibility test are shown in Table 5 below:
Tableau 5 Table 5
Souplesse Souplesse  Flexibility Flexibility
Résilience (%) Relaxation (%)  Resilience (%) Relaxation (%)
Composition 1  Composition 1
21 60  21 60
(invention)  (invention)
Film cassant  Breaking film
Composition 2 (comparative)  Composition 2 (comparative)
Non mesurable  Unmeasurable
Film cassant  Breaking film
Composition 3 (comparative)  Composition 3 (comparative)
Non mesurable Le film obtenu à partir de la composition 1 représentative de l'invention est le seul pour lequel il est possible d'obtenir une valeur de test. Il est donc significativement plus flexible que ceux obtenus à partir des compositions 2 et 3, qui forment des films trop cassants dont la souplesse ne peut être évaluée. Unmeasurable The film obtained from the representative composition 1 of the invention is the only one for which it is possible to obtain a test value. It is therefore significantly more flexible than those obtained from compositions 2 and 3, which form films that are too brittle and whose flexibility can not be evaluated.
EXEMPLE 2 : EXAMPLE 2
Deux compositions de mascara, un MASCARA 1 (invention) et un MASCARA 2 (comparatif), ayant les compositions suivantes ont été préparées selon le protocole décrit ci-après : Two mascara compositions, a MASCARA 1 (invention) and a MASCARA 2 (comparative), having the following compositions were prepared according to the protocol described below:
Tableau 6 : Composition du MASCARA 1 (invention)Table 6: Composition of MASCARA 1 (invention)
Phases Ingrédients %Phases Ingredients%
Al Paraffine SASOLWAX 6203 (SALSOL) 8Al Paraffin SASOLWAX 6203 (SALSOL) 8
Al Cire d'abeille CERABEIL BLANCHIE DAB (BAERLOCHER) 5Al Beeswax CERABEIL BLANCHIE DAB (BAERLOCHER) 5
Cire de arnauba CERAUBA JAUNE H_Ok PAILLE 1 1 ES Wax of arnauba CERAUBA YELLOW H_Ok STRAW 1 1 ES
Al 5 (BAERLOCHER)  Al 5 (BAERLOCHER)
Al Copolymère VP/eicosène UNIMER U-15 (GIVAUDAN ACTIF) 3 Al VP / eicosene Copolymer UNIMER U-15 (GIVAUDAN ACTIVE) 3
C 337001 SUN PURO BL LO. TR SA (MIYOSHI) constitué de : C 337001 SUN PURO BL LO. TR SA (MIYOSHI) consisting of:
A2 - 7,84% d'oxyde de fer noir 8 A2 - 7.84% black iron oxide 8
- 0,16% de polydiméthylsiloxane 0.16% of polydimethylsiloxane
A3 Isododécane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 16 A3 Isododecane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 16
BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) constitué de : BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) consisting of:
A3 - 21,75% dlsododécane 25A3 - 21.75% dlsododecane 25
- 2,50% de distéardimonium hectorite - 2.50% of distéardimonium hectorite
- 0,75% de carbonate de propylène  - 0.75% propylene carbonate
DOW CORNING® FA 4004 ID SILICONE (DOW CORNING) constitué de : DOW CORNING ® FA 4004 SILICONE ID (DOW CORNING) consisting of:
A3 10 A3 10
- 6,00% d'isododécane, 6.00% of isododecane,
- 4,00% de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate  4.00% of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer
TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) constitué de :  TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:
A3 - 7,00% d'isododécane, 10 A3 - 7.00% isododecane, 10
- 3,00% de triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan 3.00% trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan
A3 Polyméthylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10 A3 Polymethylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10
Total 100 Tableau 7 : Composition du MASCARA 2 (comparatif) Total 100 Table 7: Composition of MASCARA 2 (comparative)
Figure imgf000023_0001
Figure imgf000023_0001
Les mascaras sont préparés en mélangeant les ingrédients de la phase Al, puis en les chauffant au bain-marie à 85°C pendant 30 minutes. Quand le mélange est fondu, les ingrédients de la phase A2 sont ajoutés et mélangés vigoureusement avec une spatule. Les ingrédients de la phase A3 sont mélangés dans un agitateur TURBOTEST (VMI) à température ambiante (25°C), jusqu'à obtenir un mélange homogène. La phase A3 est ensuite versée dans le mélange des phases Al + A2, et mélangée à l'aide d'une spatule. Le mélange obtenu est ensuite laminé dans un broyeur tricylindrique EXAKT 50i (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES). The mascaras are prepared by mixing the ingredients of the Al phase and then heating them in a water bath at 85 ° C for 30 minutes. When the mixture is melted, the ingredients of phase A2 are added and mixed vigorously with a spatula. The ingredients of phase A3 are mixed in a TURBOTEST shaker (VMI) at room temperature (25 ° C) until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. Phase A3 is then poured into the mixture of Al + A2 phases, and mixed with a spatula. The resulting mixture is then rolled in an EXAKT 50i three-cylinder mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
• Résistance chimique : • Chemical resistance:
Les MASCARAS 1 et 2 sont appliqués de façon homogène sur des faux-cils MASCARAS 1 and 2 are applied homogeneously on false eyelashes
(Référence H1601 de la Société Seaforesthair) en réalisant 3X10 passages sur toute la frange du faux-cils, en les laissant sécher à 20°C pendant 2 minutes entre chacun des trois passages, puis 1 heure avant de commencer le test. (Reference H1601 Seaforesthair Company) by performing 3X10 passages on the entire false eyelash fringe, allowing them to dry at 20 ° C for 2 minutes between each of the three passes, then 1 hour before starting the test.
Les faux-cils séchés sont ensuite placés dans un premier pot comprenant 15 mL de sueur artificielle (constitué de 99,0% d'eau purifiée, de 0,5% de RonaCare® Urea (Merck) et de 0,5% de chlorure de sodium (Merck)), puis agités à l'aide d'un agitateur magnétique triangulaire (L = 50 mm) à une vitesse de 400 tours/minute, pendant une durée de 2 minutes. The dried false eyelashes are then placed in a first pot comprising 15 mL of artificial sweat (consisting of 99.0% purified water, 0.5% RonaCare ® Urea (Merck) and 0.5% chloride of sodium (Merck)), then stirred with a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) at a speed of 400 rpm for a period of 2 minutes.
Les faux-cils sont ensuite placés dans un deuxième pot comprenant 15 mL de sébum artificiel, puis agités à l'aide d'un agitateur magnétique triangulaire (L = 50 mm) à une vitesse de 400 tours/minute, pendant une durée de 2 minutes.  The false eyelashes are then placed in a second pot comprising 15 mL of artificial sebum, then stirred with a triangular magnetic stirrer (L = 50 mm) at a speed of 400 revolutions / minute, for a duration of 2 minutes.
L'aspect visuel des MASCARAS 1 et 2 dans chacun de ces milieux est observé et présenté à la Figure 1. Les deux MASCARAS 1 et 2 présentent une bonne résistance à la transpiration et au sébum (absence de dissolution du mascara et de formation de particules solides).  The visual appearance of MASCARAS 1 and 2 in each of these media is observed and presented in Figure 1. Both MASCARAS 1 and 2 have good resistance to transpiration and sebum (absence of mascara dissolution and particle formation solids).
• Test d'adhésion : • Membership test:
Le test d'adhésion est réalisé comme à l'Exemple 1 à l'aide d'un étaleur automatique et d'un barreau de 100 pm d'entrefer. Les échantillons sont ensuite séchés pendant 3 heures à 25°C et 50% d'humidité relative.  The adhesion test is performed as in Example 1 with the aid of an automatic spreader and a bar of 100 μm gap. The samples are then dried for 3 hours at 25 ° C. and 50% relative humidity.
L'adhésion des échantillons est ensuite évaluée selon la même échelle que celle présentée à l'Exemple 1. Les résultats sont présentés à la Figure 2.  The adhesion of the samples is then evaluated on the same scale as that presented in Example 1. The results are shown in FIG.
Le MASCARA 1 présente une très bonne adhésion, le film de mascara restant presque entièrement sur la carte de contraste, tandis que le MASCARA 2 se décolle complètement de la carte de contraste.  The MASCARA 1 has a very good adhesion, the mascara film remaining almost entirely on the contrast card, while the MASCARA 2 is completely off the contrast card.
• Test de mouillabilité : • Wettability test:
Le test de mouillabilité est réalisé de la même façon qu'à l'Exemple 1, en mesurant à température ambiante (25°C) l'angle de contact d'une goutte d'eau et d'une goutte de sébum artificiel déposées sur les films issus des compositions de MASCARAS 1 et 2. The wettability test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1, by measuring at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) the contact angle of a drop of water and a drop of artificial sebum deposited on the films from the compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2.
L'angle de contact de la goutte d'eau mesuré est supérieur à 100° pour les MASCARAS 1 et 2 (à T = 0 et après 5 min). Les compositions de MASCARAS 1 et 2 forment ainsi des films particulièrement hydrophobes.  The contact angle of the measured water drop is greater than 100 ° for MASCARAS 1 and 2 (at T = 0 and after 5 min). The compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2 thus form particularly hydrophobic films.
L'angle de contact de la goutte de sébum mesuré sur les films issus des compositions de MASCARAS 1 et 2 sont présentés dans le tableau 8 ci-après :  The contact angle of the drop of sebum measured on the films resulting from the compositions of MASCARAS 1 and 2 are presented in Table 8 below:
Tableau 8 Table 8
Figure imgf000025_0001
Figure imgf000025_0001
Test de flexibilité : Flexibility test:
Le test de flexibilité est réalisé de la même façon qu'à l'Exemple 1. Les mascaras ayant un extrait sec de 49,25%, 6,10 g de mascara sont placés dans les moules pour obtenir 3 g de film sec.  The flexibility test is carried out in the same way as in Example 1. The mascaras having a dry extract of 49.25%, 6.10 g of mascara are placed in the molds to obtain 3 g of dry film.
Les résultats du test de flexibilité sont présentés dans le tableau 9 ci-après :  The results of the flexibility test are shown in Table 9 below:
Tableau 9 Table 9
Figure imgf000025_0002
Figure imgf000025_0002
Test de souplesse : Flexibility test:
Le test de souplesse est réalisé de la même façon qu'à l'Exemple 1, temps de séchage de 3 heures, au lieu de 24 heures. Les résultats du test de souplesse sur les MASCARAS 1 et 2 sont présentés dans le tableau 10 ci-après : The flexibility test is performed in the same way as in Example 1, drying time of 3 hours, instead of 24 hours. The results of the flexibility test on MASCARAS 1 and 2 are presented in Table 10 below:
Tableau 10 Table 10
Figure imgf000026_0001
Figure imgf000026_0001
La résilience correspond à la capacité du film à restaurer l'énergie provoquée par la déformation (0% : pas de reprise de forme - 100% : parfaitement élastique). Resilience is the ability of the film to restore energy caused by deformation (0%: no shape recovery - 100%: perfectly elastic).
La relaxation correspond au temps nécessaire pour que le film retrouve sa forme initiale après deux étirements successifs (0% : pas de relaxation - 100% : relaxation immédiate).  The relaxation corresponds to the time necessary for the film to return to its original shape after two successive stretches (0%: no relaxation - 100%: immediate relaxation).
Le MASCARA 1 représentatif de l'invention présente de meilleures performances mécaniques en termes de flexibilité et de souplesse que le MASCARA 2 représentatif de l'art antérieur. Le MASCARA 1 est plus naturel au touché, et présente un effet moins cartonné que le MASCARA 2. The representative MASCARA 1 of the invention has better mechanical performance in terms of flexibility and flexibility than the MASCARA 2 representative of the prior art. The MASCARA 1 is more natural to the touch, and has a less cardboard effect than the MASCARA 2.
EXEMPLE 3 : EXAMPLE 3
Un fond de teint selon l'invention ayant la composition suivante a été préparé selon le procédé ci-après : A foundation according to the invention having the following composition was prepared according to the method below:
Tableau 11 Table 11
Phases Ingrédients % Phases Ingredients%
Al Cyclopentasiloxane (MOMENTTVE) 15,0Al Cyclopentasiloxane (MOMENTTVE) 15.0
A2 Dioxyde de titane SunCHROMA™ C47-051 (SUNCHEMICAL) 12,5A2 SunCHROMA ™ C47-051 (SUNCHEMICAL) 12.5 Titanium Dioxide
Al Isododécane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 17,7Al Isododecane (INEOS OLIGOMERS) 17.7
Al BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) constitué de : Al BENTONE GEL ISD V (ELEMENTIS) consisting of:
- 87,0% d 'isododécane 10,0 87.0% of isododecane 10.0
- 10,0% de distéardimonium hectorite - 10.0% of distearonium hectorite
- 3,0% de carbonate de propylène  - 3.0% propylene carbonate
Al DOW CORNING® FA 4004 ID SIUCONE (DOW CORNING) constitué Al Dow Corning ® FA 4004 ID SIUCONE (Dow Corning) constituted
de :  from:
10,0 10.0
- 6,00% d'isododécane, 6.00% of isododecane,
- 4,00% de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate  4.00% of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer
Al TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) constitué de :  Al TSPL-30-ID-F (SHIN-ETSU) consisting of:
- 7,00% d'isododécane, 10,0 - 7.00% isododecane, 10.0
- 3,00% de triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan 3.00% trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan
Al Polyméthylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10,0 Al Polymethylsilsesquioxane SilForm Flexible Resin (MOMENTIVE) 10.0
A2 Phényl triméthicone FLUID DC® 556 (DOW CORNING) 9,0A2 Phenyl trimethicone FLUID DC 556 ® (Dow Corning) 9.0
A3 Copolymère vinyl diméthicone/méthicone silsesquioxane KSP-100 A3 Vinyl Dimethicone / Methicone Copolymer silsesquioxane KSP-100
3,0 (SHIN-ETSU)  3.0 (SHIN-ETSU)
A2 Oxyde de fer jaune non traité C 339001 SUN PURO YELLOW  A2 Untreated yellow iron oxide C 339001 SUN PURO YELLOW
1,8 (SUNCHEMICAL)  1.8 (SUNCHEMICAL)
A2 Oxyde de fer rouge non traité C 338021 SUN PURO RED  A2 Red iron oxide, untreated C 338021 SUN PURO RED
0,5 (SUNCHEMICAL)  0.5 (SUNCHEMICAL)
Al Phénoxyéthanol (IMCD) 0,3 Al Phenoxyethanol (IMCD) 0.3
A2 Oxyde de fer noir non traité C 337001 SUN PURO BLACK A2 Black Iron Oxide Untreated C 337001 SUN PURO BLACK
0,2 (SUNCHEMICAL)  0.2 (SUNCHEMICAL)
100,100
Total 00 Le fond de teint est préparé en mélangeant les ingrédients de la phase Al avec un agitateur VMI RAYNERI, à température ambiante. Total 00 The foundation is prepared by mixing the ingredients of phase Al with a RAYNERI VMI stirrer at room temperature.
Les ingrédients de la phase A2 sont mélangés à l'aide d'une spatule, puis laminé trois fois de suite dans un broyeur tricylindrique EXAKT 50i (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).  Ingredients from phase A2 are mixed with a spatula and then rolled three times in a 3-cylinder EXAKT 50i mill (EXAKT TECHNOLOGIES).
Les phases Al et A2 sont ensuite mélangées dans un agitateur VMI RAYNERI, puis dispersées à l'aide d'un ULTRA TURRAX® (IKA) à 5000 tours/minute, jusqu'à obtenir un mélange homogène. The Al and A2 phases are then mixed in a RAYNERI VMI stirrer and then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX ® (IKA) at 5000 rpm until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
L'ingrédient A3 est ensuite ajouté aux phases Al et A2, puis dispersé à l'aide d'un ULTRA TURRAX® (IKA) à 8000 tours/minute, jusqu'à obtenir une composition homogène. Ingredient A3 is then added to phases A1 and A2 and then dispersed using an ULTRA TURRAX ® (IKA) at 8000 rpm until a homogeneous composition is obtained.
Le fond de teint de l'invention présente des propriétés de souplesse et de tenue particulièrement remarquables, conformes à celles recherchées pour l'invention. The foundation of the invention has particularly remarkable flexibility and holding properties, consistent with those sought for the invention.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1. Composition filmogène caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend : 1. film-forming composition characterized in that it comprises:
(i) un composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan,  (i) a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound,
(ii) un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane,  (ii) an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer,
(iii) une résine polysilsesquioxane, et  (iii) a polysilsesquioxane resin, and
(iv) un solvant volatil.  (iv) a volatile solvent.
2. Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan est un trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan dans lequel les groupes alkyles sont en Ci-C6. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound is a trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan wherein the alkyl groups are C 1 -C 6 .
3. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou la revendication 2, caractérisée en ce que le composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan est le triméthylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized in that the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan is trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan.
4. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisée en ce que le copolymère (ii) est un copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the copolymer (ii) is an acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer.
5. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisée en ce la résine polysilsesquioxane est une résine de formule (R-Si03/2)x, dans laquelle : 5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polysilsesquioxane resin is a resin of formula (R-SiO 3/2 ) x , in which:
R représente un radical alkyle en Ci-C2o, un radical alcényle en Ci-C20, un radical cycloalkyle en C3-Ci2, un radical aryle en Q-C^, ou un radical aralkyle en Ci-C20, et R represents a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical, a C 1 -C 20 alkenyl radical, a C 3 -C 12 cycloalkyl radical, a C 1 -C 4 aryl radical, or a C 1 -C 20 aralkyl radical, and
x est un entier allant de 1 à 500.  x is an integer ranging from 1 to 500.
6. Composition selon la revendication 5, caractérisée en ce que la résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) est une résine polyalkylsilsesquioxane ou polyarylsilsesquioxane, de préférence choisie parmi les résines polyméthylsilsesquioxane, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphénylsilsesquioxane, et leurs mélanges. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) is a polyalkylsilsesquioxane or polyarylsilsesquioxane resin, preferably selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polyphenylsilsesquioxane, and mixtures thereof.
7. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que le composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) représente de 0,5 à 30%, de préférence de 1 à 15%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de ladite composition. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the compound trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and even more preferably from 1 to 5% by weight of the total weight of said composition.
8. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 7, caractérisée en ce que ledit copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) représente de 0,5 à 30%, de préférence de 1 à 15%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 1 à 5%, en poids du poids total de ladite composition. 8. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that said acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane (ii) represents from 0.5 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 15%, and more preferably from 1 to 5%, by weight of the total weight of said composition.
9. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce que ladite résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) représente de 1 à 40%, de préférence de 1 à 25%, et encore plus préférentiellement de 5 à 15%, en poids du poids total de ladite composition. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that said polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) represents from 1 to 40%, preferably from 1 to 25%, and even more preferably from 5 to 15%, by weight. the total weight of said composition.
10. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 9, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend : 10. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it comprises:
de 10 à 35% en poids de composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii),  from 10 to 35% by weight of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) relative to the total weight of components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
de 15 à 40% en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et  from 15 to 40% by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and
de 30 à 70% en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii).  from 30 to 70% by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
11. Composition selon la revendication 10, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend : 11. Composition according to claim 10, characterized in that it comprises:
de 10 à 25% en poids de composé trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan (i) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii),  from 10 to 25% by weight of trialkylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan compound (i) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii),
de 15 à 30% en poids de copolymère acrylate/polytriméthylsiloxyméthacrylate et/ou acrylate/polydiméthylsiloxane (ii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii), et de 50 à 70% en poids de résine polysilsesquioxane (iii) par rapport au poids total des composants (i) + (ii) + (iii). from 15 to 30% by weight of acrylate / polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate and / or acrylate / polydimethylsiloxane copolymer (ii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii), and from 50 to 70% by weight of polysilsesquioxane resin (iii) relative to the total weight of the components (i) + (ii) + (iii).
12. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 11, caractérisée en ce que ledit solvant volatil (iv) représente de 10% à 70%, de préférence de 15 à 65%, et encore plus préférentiel lement de 20 à 60%, en poids du poids total de ladite composition. 12. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that said volatile solvent (iv) represents from 10% to 70%, preferably from 15 to 65%, and still more preferably from 20 to 60%, by weight of the total weight of said composition.
13. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 12, caractérisée en ce que ledit solvant volatil (iv) est choisi parmi l'isododécane, l'isohexadecane, la cyclopentasiloxane, et leurs mélanges. 13. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that said volatile solvent (iv) is selected from isododecane, isohexadecane, cyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
14. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 13, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également un élastomère de silicone, différent de la résine polysilsesquioxane (iii), avantageusement choisi parmi le polydiméthylsiloxane, le méthyl-polysiloxane, le vinyl-méthyl-polysiloxane, le phényl-vinyl-méthyl- polysiloxane, le fluoro-vinyl-méthyl-polysiloxane, et leurs mélanges. 14. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that said composition also comprises a silicone elastomer, different from the polysilsesquioxane resin (iii), advantageously selected from polydimethylsiloxane, methyl-polysiloxane, vinyl-methyl polysiloxane, phenyl-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane, fluoro-vinyl-methyl-polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
15. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 14, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également un polymère filmogène choisi parmi : 15. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that said composition also comprises a film-forming polymer chosen from:
- les copolymères de la vinylpyrrolidone (VP), et de préférence les copolymères de VP et d'alcène en C2-C20, tels que les copolymères de VP/eicosène, VP/acétate de vinyle, VP/méthacrylate d'éthyle, VP/méthacrylate d'éthyle/acide méthacrylique, VP/hexadécène, VP/triacontène, VP/styrène, VP/acide acrylique/méthacrylate de lauryle, la polyvinylpyrolidone butylée, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP), and preferably copolymers of VP and of C 2 -C 20 alkene, such as copolymers of VP / eicosene, VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone,
- les copolymères d'un ester vinylique, et de préférence les copolymères acétate de vinyle/stéarate d'allyle, acétate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, acétate de vinyle/stéarate de vinyle, acétate de vinyle/octadécène, acétate de vinyle/octadécylvinyléther, propionate de vinyle/laurate d'allyle, propionate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, stéarate de vinyle/octadécène- 1, acétate de vinyle/dodécène- 1, stéarate de vinyle/éthylvinyléther, propionate de vinyle/cétyl vinyl éther, stéarate de vinyle/acétate d'allyle, diméthyl-2,2-octanoate de vinyle/laurate de vinyle, diméthyl- 2,2-pentanoate d'allyle/laurate de vinyle, diméthyl propionate de vinyle/stéarate de vinyle, diméthyl propionate d'allyle/stéarate de vinyle, - les polyoléfines ou polyalphaoléfines, hydrogénées ou non hydrogénées, et de préférence les polymères ou copolymères d'alcènes en C2-C2o, tels que les polybutènes, les polyisobutènes, les polydécènes, copolymers of a vinyl ester, and preferably copolymers of vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether , vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, vinyl 2,2-dimethylenate / vinyl laurate, allyl dimethyl-2,2-pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate vinyl stearate, the hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated polyolefins or polyalphaolefins, and preferably the polymers or copolymers of C 2 -C 2 2 alkenes, such as polybutenes, polyisobutenes or polydecenes,
- les alkylcelluloses, et de préférence les alkylcelluloses porteurs d'un groupe alkyle en C2-C6, tels que l'éthylcellulose et la propylcellulose, alkylcelluloses, and preferably alkylcelluloses bearing a C 2 -C 6 alkyl group, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose,
- les alcools polyvinyliques, et  polyvinyl alcohols, and
- leurs mélanges.  - their mixtures.
16. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 15, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également une matière colorante avantageusement choisie parmi les pigments et les nacres. 16. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 15, characterized in that said composition also comprises a coloring material advantageously chosen from pigments and nacres.
17. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 16, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également une cire avantageusement choisie parmi : 17. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 16, characterized in that said composition also comprises a wax advantageously chosen from:
- les cires dites « polaires », telles que la cire d'abeille, la cire de son de riz, la cire de Carnauba, la cire de Candellila, la cire d'Ouricurry, la cire du Japon, la cire de Berry, la cire de Sumac, la cire de Montan, la cire d'Alfa, la cire de fibres de liège, la cire de canne à sucre, la cire d'orange, la cire de citron, la cire de laurier, les cires obtenues par hydrogénation d'huiles animales ou végétales ayant des chaînes grasses, linéaires ou ramifiées, en C8-C32, telles que l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de tournesol, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de lanoline, l'huile d'olive estérifiée avec l'alcool stéarylique, l'huile de ricin estérifiée avec l'alcool cétylique, - so-called "polar" waxes, such as beeswax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, Sumac wax, Montan wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, orange wax, lemon wax, laurel wax, waxes obtained by hydrogenation animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C 8 -C 32 fatty chains, such as jojoba oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, lanolin oil, olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol,
les cires dites « apolaires » telles que les cires microcristallines, les paraffines, l'ozokérite, les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de silicone et les cires fluorées, et  so-called "nonpolar" waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes, and
leurs mélanges.  their mixtures.
18. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 17, caractérisée en ce que ladite composition comprend également un composé gélifiant, avantageusement choisi parmi les argiles naturelles ou synthétiques ; les micas naturels modifiés tel que le fluorosilicate d'aluminium, de magnésium et de potassium ; les esters de dextrine et d'acide gras tels que le palmitate de dextrine ou le myristate de dextrine ; les tri-esters d'acide gras en C8-C30 et de mono- ou poly-glycéryle tel que le tri(hydroxystéarate) de glycéryle ; ledit composé gélifiant étant de préférence une argile naturelle ou synthétique choisies parmi les bentonites, en particulier les hectorites et les montmorillonites, les beidellites, les saponites, les nontronites, les sépiolites, les biotites, les attapulgites, les vermiculites et les zéolites, telle qu'une hectorite modifiée avec un chlorure d'alkylammonium quaternaire, ledit ammonium étant substitué par au moins un, et de préférence au moins deux radicaux alkyles en C14-C20, tel que le distéardimonium hectorite dans lequel l'ammonium comprend deux méthyles et deux stéaryles. 18. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that said composition also comprises a gelling compound, preferably selected from natural or synthetic clays; modified natural micas such as aluminum, magnesium and potassium fluorosilicate; dextrin and fatty acid esters such as dextrin palmitate or dextrin myristate; tri-esters of C 8 -C 30 fatty acids and mono- or poly-glyceryl such as glyceryl tri (hydroxystearate); said gelling compound preferably being a natural clay or synthetic compounds selected from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites, such as a hectorite modified with an alkylammonium chloride quaternary, said ammonium being substituted with at least one, and preferably at least two C 14 -C 20 alkyl radicals, such as distéardimonium hectorite wherein the ammonium comprises two methyls and two stearyls.
19. Film caractérisé en ce qu'il est constitué d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18. 19. Film characterized in that it consists of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.
20. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18 pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques, de la peau et des lèvres. 20. Use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18 for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, skin and lips.
21. Mascara caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18. 21. Mascara characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.
22. Fond de teint caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18. 22. Foundation foundation characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.
23. Rouge à lèvres caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18. 23. Lipstick characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.
24. Procédé de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une étape d'application sur les matières kératiniques, la peau et/ou les lèvres d'une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18. 24. A process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, characterized in that it comprises a step of application to the keratin materials, the skin and / or the lips of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18.
25. Kit de maquillage, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une composition selon l'une des revendications 1 à 18 conditionnée dans un réservoir, ainsi que des moyens de prélèvement et d'application de ladite composition sur les fibres kératiniques, la peau et/ou les lèvres. 25. makeup kit, characterized in that it comprises a composition according to one of claims 1 to 18 packaged in a reservoir, and means for sampling and application of said composition on the keratin fibers, the skin and / or the lips.
PCT/FR2017/053205 2016-11-23 2017-11-22 Film-forming composition based on pullulan, and uses thereof in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, the skin and the lips WO2018096262A1 (en)

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FR1661398 2016-11-23
FR1661398A FR3059002A1 (en) 2016-11-23 2016-11-23 FILMOGENIC COMPOSITION BASED ON PULLULAN AND ITS USES IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIP
FR1662634A FR3058888B1 (en) 2016-11-23 2016-12-16 FILM-FORMING COMPOSITION BASED ON PULLULAN, AND ITS USES IN COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR MAKE-UP AND / OR CARE OF KERATINIC MATERIALS, SKIN AND LIPS
FR1662634 2016-12-16

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KR20200001029A (en) * 2018-06-26 2020-01-06 코스맥스 주식회사 Wax-free typed cosmetic composition for eye makeup
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FR3090331A1 (en) 2018-12-20 2020-06-26 Lvmh Recherche Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising a film-forming polysilsesquioxane resin
CN117050536A (en) * 2023-10-13 2023-11-14 广州市瑞合新材料科技有限公司 Liquid silicone rubber for infants and preparation method thereof
CN117050536B (en) * 2023-10-13 2024-02-09 广州市瑞合新材料科技有限公司 Liquid silicone rubber for infants and preparation method thereof

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