WO2004108063A2 - Cosmetic use of sophorolipids as subcutaneous adipose cushion regulating agents and slimming application - Google Patents
Cosmetic use of sophorolipids as subcutaneous adipose cushion regulating agents and slimming application Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2004108063A2 WO2004108063A2 PCT/FR2004/001359 FR2004001359W WO2004108063A2 WO 2004108063 A2 WO2004108063 A2 WO 2004108063A2 FR 2004001359 W FR2004001359 W FR 2004001359W WO 2004108063 A2 WO2004108063 A2 WO 2004108063A2
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- sophorolipids
- cosmetic composition
- sophorolipid
- cosmetic
- agent
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/06—Preparations for care of the skin for countering cellulitis
Definitions
- sophorolipids as regulating agents for subcutaneous adipose mass and application with thinning
- the present invention relates to a new cosmetic use of sophorolipids as regulating agents for adipose mass.
- Sophorolipids constitute a family of products generally obtained in processes for the fermentation of different substrates by yeasts, in particular by Candida bombicola or by Candida apicola. Sophorolipids have in common to be made up of a carbohydrate fraction of a common disaccharide, sophorose (2-O- ⁇ -D- glucopyranosyl-D-glucopyranose), acetylated or not, and of a lipid fraction which makes intervene different fatty hydroxy acids.
- sophorolipids There are two categories of sophorolipids which correspond to formulas I and II given below, corresponding respectively to a lactone form and to an acid form.
- the disaccharide is linked by an ether function to a fatty acid while in the lactone form, the fatty acid forms a lactone with the disaccharide.
- sophorolipids correspond to at least one of the formulas I (lactone form) and II (acid form) below:
- Ri is hydrogen or an acetyl group
- R 2 is hydrogen or alkyl to C 9, and
- R3 is a C 7 to C 17 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.
- composition of mixtures of sophorolipid type products in fact depends both on the conditions of their manufacturing process, in particular on the nature of the yeast used, and on the nature of the substrate treated.
- sophorolipid type compounds are particularly interesting compounds in many fields of industry because of their surface-active properties. They are, in particular, usable as cleaning agents and as emulsifying agents, above all, because of their amphiphilic properties linked to the presence of hydrophilic sophorose and of the rest of lipophilic fatty acid. Sophorolipids also have the advantage of being well tolerated by the skin and have recently been developed in various cosmetic applications, in particular in the fight against skin aging.
- Patent FR 2 757 766 describes the use of sophorolipids as agents stimulating the metabolism of dermal fibroblasts and highlights the restructuring, repairing and firming effect of the sophorolipids in their raw form or in their acid form.
- European patent EP 0 209 783 describes the use of lactone-type sophorolipids to combat dandruff and as bacteriostatic agents in deodorants. Therefore, a number of potential uses of sophorolipids in the field of cosmetics or dermatology are known to date.
- sophorolipids as slimming agents or in the treatment of adipose overloads. They also highlighted that this new use was linked to the perfectly unexpected property of sophorolipids to promote the synthesis of leptin by adipocytes.
- human leptin or human protein OB
- OB human protein OB
- It is a protein secreted by the adipocyte which informs the brain of the state of fat stores. It acts through membrane receptors located in particular at the level of the hypothalamus.
- leptin In humans, the first work on leptin was directed towards obese and / or diabetic patients. In fact, the more a fat cell has a high triglyceride content, the more leptin it produces, and vice versa (Medicine / Sciences, 1998, n ° 8-9, 14, 858-864, G. Ailhaud: The adipocyte, secretory and endocrine cell).
- leptin gene Either there is a mutation in the leptin gene, it is then non-functional, in particular on receptors in the brain. Either there is a defect in the transfer of leptin at the level of the barrier between blood circulation and the brain.
- the leptin produced by the adipose tissue will inhibit food intake and stimulate energy expenditure. She will therefore oppose excessive weight gain.
- this protein is a regulator of the adipose mass whose primary role is to inhibit the deposition of excess adiposity.
- Leptin on the one hand suppresses the expression of certain genes leading to the accumulation of lipids (differentiation genes), and this without the participation of the brain.
- leptin induces lipolysis directly on the adipocytes. This has been observed on mouse adipocytes in vitro (see In vitro Lipolytic Effect of Leptin on Mouse Adipocytes: Evidence for a possible Autocrine / Paracrine Rbal of Leptin, G. Fr ⁇ hbeck, M. Aguado, JA Martinez, Biochemical and Biophysical Research communications 1997: 240, p. 590-594).
- the effect of leptin on lipolysis of adipocytes is specific and operates via receptors present in white adipose tissue.
- Leptin transforms estrone from the bloodstream (a hormone that increases lipid deposition) into oleyl-estrone which is considered to be a "slimming" factor.
- the appearance of this factor causes generalized lipolysis and thermogenesis (see Leptin enhances the synthesis of oleyl-estrone from estrone in white adipose tissue, M. Esteve, J. Virgili, H. Aguilar, F. Balada, JA Fernandez-Lopez , W. Remesar, M. Alemany, Eur 3. Nutr. 1999, 38, p. 99-104).
- Administered to obese or normal rats oleyl-estrone causes a loss of fat mass.
- sophorolipids promotes the secretion of leptin by adipocytes and makes it possible to treat fatty overloads under the skin.
- the invention relates, according to a first aspect, the cosmetic use of at least one sophorolipid, as a slimming agent for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to reduce fatty overloads under the skin, said sophorolipids responding to the '' at least one of formulas I or II below:
- R 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group
- R 2 is hydrogen or a C 1 to C 9 alkyl group
- R 3 is a C 7 to C 17 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.
- the present invention also relates to the use of at least one sophorolipid as defined above, as an agent stimulating the synthesis of leptin by adipocytes, for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to reduce subcutaneous fatty overloads.
- the invention relates to a method of cosmetic slimming treatment of the human body intended to reduce the subcutaneous fatty overloads, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the part of the body concerned a cosmetic composition containing at least one compound of the family of the same sophorolipids.
- the invention relates to new cosmetic compositions, in particular intended to reduce fatty subcutaneous overloads containing, as active agent, at least one sophorolipid as defined above, in combination with at least one lipolytic agent.
- compositions used according to the first three aspects of the invention as well as the novel compositions which are the subject of the fourth aspect of the invention contain, as active principle, at least one product from the family of sophorolipids corresponding to the 'one of the formulas I and II given above.
- these sophorolipids are obtained by fermentation of plant substrates, the fermentation processes implemented generally leading to mixtures of products corresponding to formulas I and II.
- Sophorolipids produced by fermentation preferably by fermentation of plant substrates, more specifically by bioconversion of a carbohydrate substrate in the presence of a lipid substrate, will advantageously be used according to the invention.
- sophorolipids can be produced by fermentation with yeast, from glucose and vegetable oil or their esters.
- yeast from glucose and vegetable oil or their esters.
- a strain of Candida bombicola or Candida apicola can be used as yeast on a carbohydrate substrate, followed by a production phase by bioconversion of two substrates, one carbohydrate and the other lipid.
- sophorolipids or mixtures of sophorolipids corresponding to at least one of the formulas II or II 'below will be used:
- R 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group.
- R 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group and 4 is a linear hydrocarbon chain optionally having an unsaturation and comprising 11, 13 or 15 carbon atoms.
- a mixture of sophorolipids is used containing, as the majority sophorolipid, the diacetate- 6 ', 6 "- L - (2'-O- ⁇ -D-glucopyranosyl- ⁇ -D-glucopyranosyl) -oxy ) -17- octadecenoic lactone- 1 ', 4 ".
- Such a mixture, obtained by fermentation, is currently on the market.
- the products marketed by Rhodia in particular the product Miractive Ipoleose 30 ®, as well as the product marketed under the Sopholiance ® brand by the
- the structure of the lipid fraction reflects that of the hydroxy fatty acids present in the starting lipid substrate.
- the relative length of the R 2 and R 3 groups depends on the position of the hydroxyl group in the starting hydroxy fatty acid.
- sophorolipids can be either in acid form, or in lactone form or as a mixture of these two forms.
- the concentrations of sophorolipids in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention are advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, and preferably between 0.1% and 1%, by weight of said composition.
- compositions used according to the invention can be formulated in any form intended for topical use.
- the compositions used according to the invention may also comprise a lipolytic agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme.
- a lipolytic agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme.
- Such compositions constitute in themselves new products which are the subject of the fourth aspect of the invention.
- Such compositions containing these specific associations prove to be particularly advantageous for improving the slimming effect.
- At least one cosmetically acceptable lipolytic agent will be chosen from the group consisting of adenosine-3 ', 5'-cyclic monophosphate (A Pc) and its derivatives, agents activating the enzyme adenylate cyclase and phosphodiesterase inhibiting agents.
- a Pc adenosine-3 ', 5'-cyclic monophosphate
- an activating agent for adenylate cyclase forskolin or a plant extract containing it, such as an extract of Coleus forskohlii or Plectranthus barbatus, or an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea, will advantageously be chosen.
- a xanthine such as 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine or IBMX, caffeine or theophilline.
- Cosmetic compositions containing such associations which are new in themselves, constitute the fourth aspect of the present invention.
- the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular intended to reduce fatty overloads under the skin, characterized in that it contains, as active agent,
- At least one cosmetically acceptable lipolytic agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its cosmetically acceptable derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
- the sophorolipids are contained in a concentration of between 0.01% and 5% and, preferably, between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
- novel cosmetic compositions also contain at least one lipolytic active agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its lipolytic derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme.
- the cAMP or its derivative will advantageously be used at a concentration of between 0.001% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- a cAMP derivative one can choose any cosmetically acceptable cAMP derivative and in particular a salt or an acylated derivative, in particular a mono- or dibutyryl derivative.
- forskolin or a plant extract containing it is advantageously chosen, preferably at a concentration of between 0.001% and 1% and preferably between 0.05 % and 0.25%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- an extract containing forskolin it is preferable to choose an extract of Coleus forskohlii or Plectranthus barbatus.
- Such an extract can be obtained by an extraction process such as that described in international application WO 91/02516.
- an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea at a concentration of between 0.001% and 5%, preferably between 0.01% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Such an extract can be obtained by an extraction process such as that described in international application WO 95/03780.
- the new compositions according to the invention contain a phosphodiesterase inhibiting agent, in particular a xanthine and, very particularly, 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine (IBMX), caffeine or theophillin, preferably at a concentration of between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 1%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
- a phosphodiesterase inhibiting agent in particular a xanthine and, very particularly, 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine (IBMX), caffeine or theophillin
- compositions used according to the present invention which contain a combination of sophorolipids with a lipolytic agent such as cAMP and its lipolytic derivatives, agents activating adenylate cyclase and agents inhibiting phosphodiesterase, prove to be particularly advantageous. due to the synergistic action of the two types of constituents. Without the inventors of the present invention feeling totally bound by this explanation, a plausible interpretation of the observed synergistic effect is given below.
- agents promoting lipolysis in adipocytes exhibit remarkable biological efficacy which generally associates an important lipolytic power with an inhibitory activity of adipocyte maturation.
- the significant reduction in volume and quantity of lipid vacuoles after treatment with the lipolytic agent leads to a reduction in the production of leptin. It is therefore probable that this local loss of leptin in the environment close to the adipocytes resulting from the treatment with the lipolytic agent can be compensated by the effect of a product stimulating the synthesis of leptin.
- body fat can be regulated via secreting circulating factors is very interesting.
- the principle of the test is to measure the secretion of leptin by adipocytes.
- the test uses an immunoenzymatic "sandwich” technique.
- the microplate wells are coated with a polyclonal antibody to mouse leptin.
- the standards, controls and samples are deposited in the wells and at this time, all the leptin present binds to the immobilized antibody.
- the bound leptin is then detected by an anti-mouse leptin antibody coupled to an enzyme, peroxidase.
- Substrate solution is then added to the wells. The enzymatic reaction leads to a blue solution which turns yellow after addition of a stop solution.
- the intensity of the color measured is proportional to the amount of leptin present.
- the optical density is read at 450 nm with a spectrophotometer.
- a clone which has the capacity to accumulate large amounts of triglycerides has been isolated from an established line of 3T3 mouse preadipocytes. Lipolytic agents reduce this build-up. It therefore appeared appropriate to test potential lipolytic agents on this line of murine preadipocytes 3T3-F442A.
- These preadipocytes (GREEN H. and KEHINDE O. - Spontaneous Heritable Changes Leading to Increased Adipose Conversion in 3T3 Cells, Cell Vol. 7, 105-113, 1976) can multiply and differentiate by presenting the morphological and biochemical phenotype characteristic of differentiated function of the mature adipocyte. When they are in exponential growth phase, they are fibroblastic in appearance, have an elongated shape and are very adherent to the support. At confluence when conditions allow, a very early morphological transition gives them a rounded shape.
- the cells then undergo a process of clonal amplification. To these morphological changes are added increases in the activity of lipogenetic enzymes as well as increases in the responses of these cells to hormonal factors affecting lipogenesis and lipolysis.
- the 3T3-F442A preadipocytes therefore constitute an excellent model for studying lipolysis due to the morphological and metabolic transformations acquired by the cells during their development program.
- Pairault J and Lasnier F Control of adipogenetic differentiation of 3T3-F442A cells by retinoic acid, dexamethasone and insulin: a topographie analysis, J. cell Physiol. (1987), 132, 279-86).
- leptin is secreted by adipocytes in the culture medium.
- Insulin and cortisol promote leptin production in cultured human fat cells Wabitsch M. and al, Diabetes, (1996), 45 (10), 1435-8; "Immunohistochemichal and ultrastructural localization of leptin and leptin receptor in human white adipose tissue and differentiating human adipose cells in primary culture ", Bornstein SR et al, Diabetes, (2000), 49 (4), 532-8;” leptin, leptin receptors, and the control of body weight ", Friedman JM, Nutrition Reviews , 1998, 56 (2), Part 2).
- the 3T3-F442A preadipocytes are seeded on D0 in 35 mm petri dishes (Corning) and placed in the oven at 37 ° C. under an air-CO 2 atmosphere (95: 5).
- the cells are cultured in a minimum essential medium of modified Eagle (DMEM) according to Dulbecco (glucose 4.50 g / 1) (GIBCO BRL) supplemented with 5% calf serum (SV) (BIOMEDIA ® ) and 5% serum of fetal calf (GIBCO) during the growth phase.
- DMEM modified Eagle
- SV calf serum
- BIOMEDIA ® 5% serum of fetal calf
- the medium is changed: The basic medium remains the same (DMEM) but is supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum (SVF) and 5 ⁇ g / ml of insulin (SIGMA). The medium is then changed at D9 and Dll. On D14, D16 and D18, treatment is carried out with sophorolipids.
- DMEM fetal calf serum
- SIGMA 5 ⁇ g / ml of insulin
- Sophorolipids marketed by Soliance (France) under the name Sopholiance ® we use Sophorolipids marketed by Soliance (France) under the name Sopholiance ®. To this end, the medium is replaced by the medium of the above composition to which the sophorolipids have been added at the concentrations indicated below. Due to the insolubility of the sophorolipids in water or in the culture medium, a stock solution of sophorolipids prepared in DMSO is used, which is diluted in DMEM culture medium. Four different concentrations of sophorolipids are thus tested: 10 ⁇ g / ml, 5 ⁇ g / ml, 2.5 ⁇ g / ml and 1 ⁇ g / ml, in comparison with a control culture. For the purposes of the test, the control culture medium is also changed on D14, 16 and 18. The supernatant part is collected before said treatment on D16, D17, D18 and D21,
- the secreted leptin is determined by means of an immuno-enzymatic technique of the ELISA type called "sandwich", using the Quantikine M mouse assay kit (R&D System, UK).
- This ELISA assay uses the recombinant mouse leptin, expressed in E. Coli and antibodies directed against the recombinant mouse leptin.
- the wells of the microplates are coated in a first step with the polyclonal antibody of mouse leptin.
- the standards allowing the calibration of the results, and the samples of control supernatant and of treated cultures, are then deposited in the wells. All of the leptin present then binds to the antibody thus immobilized.
- the bound leptin is then detected by an anti-mouse leptin antibody coupled to a peroxidase.
- a substrate solution is then added.
- the enzymatic reaction leads to a blue solution which turns yellow after addition of a stop solution.
- optical density of this solution is measured with a spectrophotometer at 450 nm. It is proportional to the amount of antibody attached, itself proportional to the amount of leptin initially present. The results are expressed in pg / ml of leptin present in the cell supernatants.
- test The purpose of the test is to measure the effect of sophorolipids on leptin secretion by human subcutaneous adipocytes. The tests were carried out with three concentrations of the test compound at 5 hours.
- the quantities of leptin secreted were determined using the kit for determining the quantity of leptin Quantikine Human Leptin Immunoassay kit (R&D System, UK). 2 - Protocol
- Subcutaneous human preadipocytes are cultured in 24-well microplates.
- the concentrations of products tested are 1, 2.5 and 5 ng / ml respectively.
- the negative control used in the test is the DMSO solution corresponding to the maximum concentration.
- the positive control is 100 nM insulin.
- the treatments were carried out for 5 hours and 24 hours.
- the preadipocytes are seeded and maintained until differentiation in the absence of the test compounds for approximately 3 weeks. Then, they are introduced into the basic medium, in the absence of any hormone for 3 days.
- 100 ⁇ l of a buffered protein base is added to each well of a microplate coated with a human monoclonal antibody against leptin. Then, 100 ⁇ l of each sample and of the control are added. It is then left to incubate for 2 hours at 25 ° C. After washing the control sample, 200 ⁇ l of a human monoclonal antibody against leptin conjugated to black radish peroxidase are added to each well and the mixture is left to incubate for 1 hour at 25 ° C. After this step, 200 ⁇ l of a substrate are added to each well and incubated for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. The reaction is finally stopped by adding 50 ⁇ l of stop solution and the absorbance at 450 nm is noted.
- sophorolipids 5 ng / ml of sophorolipids, in comparison with the control and the positive control (insulin 100 nM), are given in table III below:
- compositions are expressed as a percentage by weight.
- the sophorolipids used are a commercial mixture resulting from the bioconversion by Candida bombicola of a carbohydrate substrate containing sugars extracted from wheat and of a lipid substrate derived from the extraction of methyl esters of fatty acid from l 'Colza oil.
- Sophorolipids (Sopholiance ® ) 0.20%
- PPG 2 isoceteth-20 acetate 2.00%
- Poloxamer 407 0.50%
- Sophorolipids (Ipoleose ® ) 0.20% 3 - Slimming cream
- Poloxamer 407 0.50%
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Abstract
Description
Utilisation cosmétique des sophorolipides comme agents régulateurs de la masse adipeuse sous-cutanée et application à ramincissementCosmetic use of sophorolipids as regulating agents for subcutaneous adipose mass and application with thinning
La présente invention concerne une nouvelle utilisation cosmétique des sophorolipides comme agents régulateurs de la masse adipeuse.The present invention relates to a new cosmetic use of sophorolipids as regulating agents for adipose mass.
Les sophorolipides constituent une famille de produits généralement obtenus dans des procédés de fermentation de différents substrats par des levures, en particulier par Candida bombicola ou par Candida apicola. Les sophorolipides ont en commun d'être constitués d'une fraction glucidique d'un disaccharide commun, le sophorose (2-O-β-D- glucopyranosyl-D-glucopyranose), acétylé ou non, et d'une fraction lipidique qui fait intervenir des hydroxyacides gras différents.Sophorolipids constitute a family of products generally obtained in processes for the fermentation of different substrates by yeasts, in particular by Candida bombicola or by Candida apicola. Sophorolipids have in common to be made up of a carbohydrate fraction of a common disaccharide, sophorose (2-O-β-D- glucopyranosyl-D-glucopyranose), acetylated or not, and of a lipid fraction which makes intervene different fatty hydroxy acids.
Il existe deux catégories de sophorolipides qui correspondent aux formules I et II données ci-dessous, correspondant respectivement à une forme lactone et à une forme acide.There are two categories of sophorolipids which correspond to formulas I and II given below, corresponding respectively to a lactone form and to an acid form.
Dans la forme acide, le disaccharide est lié par une fonction éther à un acide gras alors que dans la forme lactone, l'acide gras forme une lactone avec le disaccharide.In the acid form, the disaccharide is linked by an ether function to a fatty acid while in the lactone form, the fatty acid forms a lactone with the disaccharide.
Ainsi, les sophorolipides répondent à l'une au moins des formules I (forme lactone) et II (forme acide) ci-dessous :Thus, the sophorolipids correspond to at least one of the formulas I (lactone form) and II (acid form) below:
Ri est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement acétyle,Ri is hydrogen or an acetyl group,
R2 est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement alkyle en Ci à C9, etR 2 is hydrogen or alkyl to C 9, and
R3 est un groupement hydrocarboné saturé ou non en C7 à C17.R3 is a C 7 to C 17 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.
La composition exacte des mélanges de produits de type sophorolipide dépend en fait à la fois des conditions de leur procédé de fabrication, en particulier de la nature de la levure mise en œuvre, et de la nature du substrat traité.The exact composition of mixtures of sophorolipid type products in fact depends both on the conditions of their manufacturing process, in particular on the nature of the yeast used, and on the nature of the substrate treated.
Il est maintenant bien connu que les composés de type sophorolipide sont des composés particulièrement intéressants dans de nombreux domaines de l'industrie du fait de leurs propriétés tensio- actives. Ils sont, en particulier, utilisables comme agents de nettoyage et comme agents émulsifiants, surtout, du fait de leurs propriétés amphiphiles liées à la présence du sophorose hydrophile et du reste d'acide gras lipophile. Les sophorolipides présentent, en outre, l'avantage d'être bien tolérés par la peau et ont pu être récemment développés dans différentes applications cosmétiques, en particulier dans la lutte contre le vieillissement cutané.It is now well known that sophorolipid type compounds are particularly interesting compounds in many fields of industry because of their surface-active properties. They are, in particular, usable as cleaning agents and as emulsifying agents, above all, because of their amphiphilic properties linked to the presence of hydrophilic sophorose and of the rest of lipophilic fatty acid. Sophorolipids also have the advantage of being well tolerated by the skin and have recently been developed in various cosmetic applications, in particular in the fight against skin aging.
Ainsi, la publication « les sophorolipides : actif contre le vieillissement cutané », Parfums et Cosmétiques Actualité, N°129, juin- juillet 1996, décrit l'action stimulante des sophorolipides sur les cellules du derme et leur action réparatrice et préventive vis-à-vis du vieillissement cutané.Thus, the publication “sophorolipids: active against skin aging”, Perfumes and Cosmetics News, No. 129, June- July 1996, describes the stimulating action of sophorolipids on the cells of dermis and their restorative and preventive action vis-à-vis skin aging.
Le brevet FR 2 757 766 décrit l'utilisation des sophorolipides en tant qu'agents stimulateurs du métabolisme des fibroblastes dermiques et met en évidence l'effet restructurant, réparateur et raffermissant de la peau des sophorolipides sous leur forme brute ou sous leur forme acide.Patent FR 2 757 766 describes the use of sophorolipids as agents stimulating the metabolism of dermal fibroblasts and highlights the restructuring, repairing and firming effect of the sophorolipids in their raw form or in their acid form.
Le brevet européen EP 0 209 783 décrit l'utilisation de sophorolipides de type lactone pour combattre les pellicules et comme agents bactériostatiques dans des déodorants. Ainsi donc, un certain nombre d'utilisations potentielles des sophorolipides dans le domaine de la cosmétique ou de la dermatologie sont connues à ce jour.European patent EP 0 209 783 describes the use of lactone-type sophorolipids to combat dandruff and as bacteriostatic agents in deodorants. Therefore, a number of potential uses of sophorolipids in the field of cosmetics or dermatology are known to date.
Les inventeurs de la présente invention ont maintenant découvert de façon tout à fait surprenante une nouvelle utilisation des sophorolipides comme agents amincissants ou dans le traitement des surcharges adipeuses. Ils ont, par ailleurs, mis en évidence que cette nouvelle utilisation était liée à la propriété parfaitement inattendue des sophorolipides de favoriser la synthèse de la leptine par les adipocytes.The inventors of the present invention have now discovered, quite surprisingly, a new use of sophorolipids as slimming agents or in the treatment of adipose overloads. They also highlighted that this new use was linked to the perfectly unexpected property of sophorolipids to promote the synthesis of leptin by adipocytes.
La leptine de la souris a été récemment identifiée en 1994 comme étant le produit du "gène ob" (Zhang, y et al., Nature, 1994, 372:425 et Tartaglia LA., 1997, J. Biol. Chem. 272:6093).Mouse leptin was recently identified in 1994 as the product of the "ob gene" (Zhang, y et al., Nature, 1994, 372: 425 and Tartaglia LA., 1997, J. Biol. Chem. 272: 6093).
La structure de la leptine humaine (ou protéine humaine OB) et son utilisation dans la modulation du poids chez les animaux ont été décrites dans la demande de brevet britannique GB 2292382. Il s'agit d'une protéine sécrétée par l'adipocyte qui informe le cerveau de l'état des réserves adipeuses. Elle agit par l'intermédiaire de récepteurs membranaires situés en particulier au niveau de l'hypothalamus.The structure of human leptin (or human protein OB) and its use in the modulation of weight in animals have been described in British patent application GB 2292382. It is a protein secreted by the adipocyte which informs the brain of the state of fat stores. It acts through membrane receptors located in particular at the level of the hypothalamus.
D'abord étudiée chez le rongeur puis chez l'homme, elle joue un rôle clef dans la régulation du poids corporel. Chez les souris ob/ob, l'absence de leptine dans le sérum due à des mutations du gène ob (celui qui code pour la leptine) entraîne une obésité massive.First studied in rodents and then in humans, it plays a key role in regulating body weight. In ob / ob mice, the absence of leptin in serum due to mutations in the ob gene (the one that codes for leptin) leads to massive obesity.
Chez l'homme, les premiers travaux concernant la leptine ont été dirigés vers les patients obèses et/ou diabétiques. En effet, plus un adipocyte possède une teneur élevée en triglycérides, plus il produit de leptine, et inversement (Médecine/Sciences, 1998, n°8-9, 14, 858-864, G. Ailhaud : L'adipocyte, cellule sécrétrice et endocrine).In humans, the first work on leptin was directed towards obese and / or diabetic patients. In fact, the more a fat cell has a high triglyceride content, the more leptin it produces, and vice versa (Medicine / Sciences, 1998, n ° 8-9, 14, 858-864, G. Ailhaud: The adipocyte, secretory and endocrine cell).
Ainsi chez les obèses, deux situations peuvent se présenter.So in obese people, two situations can arise.
Soit il existe une mutation du gène de la leptine, celle-ci est alors non fonctionnelle, en particulier sur les récepteurs du cerveau. Soit il existe un défaut du transfert de la leptine au niveau de la barrière entre circulation sanguine et cerveau.Either there is a mutation in the leptin gene, it is then non-functional, in particular on receptors in the brain. Either there is a defect in the transfer of leptin at the level of the barrier between blood circulation and the brain.
Une étude, au cours de laquelle une injection quotidienne de leptine synthétique a été réalisée sur des patients qui souffraient d'obésité ou de surcharges pondérales a montré des résultats probants : une perte de poids significative chez les patients atteints d'une certaine forme d'obésité est apparue (travaux menés à la Tufts University aux Etats-Unis, présentés à l'occasion du congrès American Diabètes Association : Jean Mayer, USA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging). En fait, la leptine déclenche un phénomène de satiété provoquant une diminution de la prise alimentaire et diminuant la fréquence des prises alimentaires.A study, in which a daily injection of synthetic leptin was carried out on patients who were suffering from obesity or overweight showed convincing results: significant weight loss in patients with some form of obesity appeared (work carried out at Tufts University in the United States, presented at the American Diabetes Association congress: Jean Mayer, USA Human Nutrition Research Center on Aging). In fact, leptin triggers a satiety phenomenon causing a decrease in food intake and decreasing the frequency of food intake.
Lorsque la masse adipeuse augmente, la leptine produite par le tissu adipeux va inhiber la prise alimentaire et stimuler la dépense énergétique. Elle va donc s'opposer ainsi à une prise de poids excessive.When the adipose mass increases, the leptin produced by the adipose tissue will inhibit food intake and stimulate energy expenditure. She will therefore oppose excessive weight gain.
Ainsi donc, on peut considérer que cette protéine est un régulateur de la masse adipeuse dont le rôle primordial est d'inhiber le dépôt d'adiposité en excès.Thus, we can consider that this protein is a regulator of the adipose mass whose primary role is to inhibit the deposition of excess adiposity.
Le rôle de régulation locale joué par la leptine est bien connu (voir Systemically and Topically Administered Leptin Both AccelerateThe role of local regulation played by leptin is well known (see Systemically and Topically Administered Leptin Both Accelerate
Wound Healing in Diabetic ob/ob Mice. B.D. Ring, S. Scully, C.R. Davis,Wound Healing in Diabetic ob / ob Mice. B.D. Ring, S. Scully, C.R. Davis,
M.B Baker, M.J. Cullen, M.A. Pelleymounter, D. Danilenko. Endocrinology,M.B Baker, M.J. Cullen, M.A. Pelleymounter, D. Danilenko. Endocrinology,
2000 vol. 141, n°l, p. 446-449).2000 vol. 141, n ° l, p. 446-449).
Par ailleurs, le rôle de la leptine dans l'expression de certains gènes conduisant à l'accumulation de lipides (gènes de différenciation) est également bien connu dans le sens de la régulation de la lipolyse.Furthermore, the role of leptin in the expression of certain genes leading to the accumulation of lipids (differentiation genes) is also well known in the sense of regulating lipolysis.
La leptine, d'une part réprime l'expression de certains gènes conduisant à l'accumulation de lipides (gènes de différenciation), et cela sans la participation du cerveau. D'autre part, la leptine induit une lipolyse directement sur les adipocytes. Ceci a été observé sur des adipocytes de souris in vitro (voir In vitro Lipolytic Effect of Leptin on Mouse Adipocytes : Evidence for a possible Autocrine/Paracrine Rôle of Leptin, G. Frϋhbeck, M. Aguado, J.A. Martinez, Biochemical and Biophysical Research communications 1997 : 240, p. 590-594). L'effet de la leptine sur la lipolyse des adipocytes est spécifique et opère via des récepteurs présents dans le tissu adipeux blanc.Leptin, on the one hand suppresses the expression of certain genes leading to the accumulation of lipids (differentiation genes), and this without the participation of the brain. On the other hand, leptin induces lipolysis directly on the adipocytes. This has been observed on mouse adipocytes in vitro (see In vitro Lipolytic Effect of Leptin on Mouse Adipocytes: Evidence for a possible Autocrine / Paracrine Rôle of Leptin, G. Frϋhbeck, M. Aguado, JA Martinez, Biochemical and Biophysical Research communications 1997: 240, p. 590-594). The effect of leptin on lipolysis of adipocytes is specific and operates via receptors present in white adipose tissue.
La leptine transforme l'oestrone de la circulation sanguine (hormone qui augmente le dépôt de lipides) en oléyl-oestrone qui est considéré comme un facteur "amincissant". L'apparition de ce facteur provoque une lipolyse généralisée et une thermogenese (voir Leptin enhances the synthesis of oleyl-estrone from estrone in white adipose tissue, M. Esteve, J. Virgili, H. Aguilar, F. Balada, J.A. Fernandez-Lopez, W. Remesar, M. Alemany, Eur 3. Nutr. 1999, 38, p. 99-104). Administrée à des rats obèses ou normaux, l'oléyl-oestrone provoque une perte de masse grasse.Leptin transforms estrone from the bloodstream (a hormone that increases lipid deposition) into oleyl-estrone which is considered to be a "slimming" factor. The appearance of this factor causes generalized lipolysis and thermogenesis (see Leptin enhances the synthesis of oleyl-estrone from estrone in white adipose tissue, M. Esteve, J. Virgili, H. Aguilar, F. Balada, JA Fernandez-Lopez , W. Remesar, M. Alemany, Eur 3. Nutr. 1999, 38, p. 99-104). Administered to obese or normal rats, oleyl-estrone causes a loss of fat mass.
On voit donc tout l'intérêt qu'il y a à disposer d'un moyen pour agir sur la synthèse de la leptine qui agira notamment:We therefore see all the interest in having a means to act on the synthesis of leptin which will act in particular:
- directement au niveau cutané par l'intermédiaire des récepteurs présents à ce niveau, - sur le tissu adipeux en provoquant la lipolyse,- directly at the skin level via the receptors present at this level, - on the adipose tissue by causing lipolysis,
- sur un facteur agissant comme régulateur du poids, à savoir l'oléyl-oestrone.- on a factor acting as a weight regulator, namely oleyl-oestrone.
Les essais réalisés dans le cadre de la présente invention ont permis de démontrer que les sophorolipides permettaient d'augmenter considérablement la sécrétion de la leptine par les adipocytes.The tests carried out within the framework of the present invention made it possible to demonstrate that the sophorolipids made it possible to considerably increase the secretion of leptin by adipocytes.
Ainsi, l'utilisation en application topique des sophorolipides favorise la sécrétion de la leptine par les adipocytes et permet de traiter les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées.Thus, the use in topical application of sophorolipids promotes the secretion of leptin by adipocytes and makes it possible to treat fatty overloads under the skin.
L'invention concerne, selon un premier aspect, l'utilisation cosmétique d'au moins un sophorolipide, en tant qu'agent amincissant pour la fabrication d'une composition cosmétique destinée à réduire les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées, lesdits sophorolipides répondant à l'une au moins des formules I ou II ci-dessous : The invention relates, according to a first aspect, the cosmetic use of at least one sophorolipid, as a slimming agent for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to reduce fatty overloads under the skin, said sophorolipids responding to the '' at least one of formulas I or II below:
IIII
Ri est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement acétyle, R2 est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement alkyle en Ci à C9, et R3 est un groupement hydrocarboné saturé ou non en C7 à C17.R 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group, R 2 is hydrogen or a C 1 to C 9 alkyl group, and R 3 is a C 7 to C 17 saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group.
Selon un deuxième aspect, la présente invention concerne également l'utilisation d'au moins un sophorolipide tel que défini ci-dessus, en tant qu'agent stimulant la synthèse de la leptine par les adipocytes, pour la fabrication d'une composition cosmétique destinée à réduire les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées.According to a second aspect, the present invention also relates to the use of at least one sophorolipid as defined above, as an agent stimulating the synthesis of leptin by adipocytes, for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition intended to reduce subcutaneous fatty overloads.
Selon un troisième aspect, l'invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique amincissant du corps humain destiné à diminuer les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer à la surface de la partie du corps concerné une composition cosmétique contenant au moins un composé de la famille des mêmes sophorolipides. Enfin, selon un quatrième aspect, l'invention concerne de nouvelles compositions cosmétiques, notamment destinées à réduire les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées contenant, à titre d'agent actif, au moins un sophorolipide tel que défini précédemment, en combinaison avec au moins un agent lipolytique. Les compositions cosmétiques utilisées selon les trois premiers aspects de l'invention ainsi que les compositions nouvelles qui font l'objet du quatrième aspect de l'invention contiennent, à titre de principe actif, au moins un produit de la famille des sophorolipides répondant à l'une des formules I et II données précédemment. Selon une variante avantageuse de l'invention, ces sophorolipides sont obtenus par fermentation de substrats végétaux, les procédés de fermentation mis en œuvre conduisant en général à des mélanges de produits répondant aux formules I et II.According to a third aspect, the invention relates to a method of cosmetic slimming treatment of the human body intended to reduce the subcutaneous fatty overloads, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the part of the body concerned a cosmetic composition containing at least one compound of the family of the same sophorolipids. Finally, according to a fourth aspect, the invention relates to new cosmetic compositions, in particular intended to reduce fatty subcutaneous overloads containing, as active agent, at least one sophorolipid as defined above, in combination with at least one lipolytic agent. The cosmetic compositions used according to the first three aspects of the invention as well as the novel compositions which are the subject of the fourth aspect of the invention contain, as active principle, at least one product from the family of sophorolipids corresponding to the 'one of the formulas I and II given above. According to an advantageous variant of the invention, these sophorolipids are obtained by fermentation of plant substrates, the fermentation processes implemented generally leading to mixtures of products corresponding to formulas I and II.
On utilisera avantageusement selon l'invention des sophorolipides produits par fermentation, de préférence par fermentation de substrats végétaux, plus précisément par bioconversion d'un substrat glucidique en présence d'un substrat lipidique.Sophorolipids produced by fermentation, preferably by fermentation of plant substrates, more specifically by bioconversion of a carbohydrate substrate in the presence of a lipid substrate, will advantageously be used according to the invention.
Ainsi, les sophorolipides peuvent être produits par fermentation avec une levure, à partir de glucose et d'huile végétale ou de leurs esters. En particulier, on peut utiliser comme levure une souche de Candida bombicola ou de Candida apicola sur un substrat de nature glucidique, suivi d'une phase de production par bioconversion de deux substrats, l'un glucidique et l'autre lipidique.Thus, sophorolipids can be produced by fermentation with yeast, from glucose and vegetable oil or their esters. In particular, a strain of Candida bombicola or Candida apicola can be used as yeast on a carbohydrate substrate, followed by a production phase by bioconversion of two substrates, one carbohydrate and the other lipid.
Selon une variante avantageuse de l'invention, on utilisera des sophorolipides ou des mélanges de sophorolipides répondant à l'une au moins des formules II ou II' ci-dessous : IIAccording to an advantageous variant of the invention, sophorolipids or mixtures of sophorolipids corresponding to at least one of the formulas II or II 'below will be used: II
IΓIΓ
Ri est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement acétyle. Selon une autre variante avantageuse de l'invention, on recourt à des sophorolipides ou des mélanges de sophorolipides répondant à l'une des formules III ou III' ci-dessous : IIIR 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group. According to another advantageous variant of the invention, recourse is had to sophorolipids or mixtures of sophorolipids corresponding to one of the formulas III or III 'below: III
III'III '
dans lesquelles Ri est de l'hydrogène ou un groupement acétyle et 4 est une chaîne hydrocarbonée linéaire présentant éventuellement une insaturatiqn et comprenant 11, 13 ou 15 atomes de carbone.in which R 1 is hydrogen or an acetyl group and 4 is a linear hydrocarbon chain optionally having an unsaturation and comprising 11, 13 or 15 carbon atoms.
Selon une variante avantageuse, on utilise un mélange de sophorolipides contenant, à titre de sophorolipide majoritaire, le diacétate- 6',6" - L - (2'-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-β-D-glucopyranosyl)-oxy)-17- octadécénoïque lactone- 1 ',4".According to an advantageous variant, a mixture of sophorolipids is used containing, as the majority sophorolipid, the diacetate- 6 ', 6 "- L - (2'-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-β-D-glucopyranosyl) -oxy ) -17- octadecenoic lactone- 1 ', 4 ".
Un tel mélange, obtenu par fermentation, se trouve actuellement dans le commerce. On citera, par exemple, les produits commercialisés par la Société Rhodia, en particulier le produit Miractive Ipoleose 30®, ainsi que le produit commercialisé sous la marque Sopholiance® par laSuch a mixture, obtained by fermentation, is currently on the market. Include, for example, the products marketed by Rhodia, in particular the product Miractive Ipoleose 30 ®, as well as the product marketed under the Sopholiance ® brand by the
Société Soliance.Soliance Company.
Dans ces différents produits, lorsqu'ils sont obtenus par un procédé de fermentation mettant en œuvre un substrat lipidique, par exemple une huile végétale, la structure de la fraction lipidique reflète celle des hydroxy-acides gras présents dans le substrat lipidique de départ.In these various products, when they are obtained by a fermentation process using a lipid substrate, for example a vegetable oil, the structure of the lipid fraction reflects that of the hydroxy fatty acids present in the starting lipid substrate.
Par ailleurs, la longueur relative des groupements R2 et R3 dépend de la position du groupement hydroxyle dans l'hydroxy-acide gras de départ. Ainsi, on recourt avantageusement à des hydroxy-acides gras dans lesquels le groupement hydroxyle se trouve en position ω ou ω-1 et, dans ces cas, les fractions glucidique et lipidique des sophorolipides sont reliées entre elles par une liaison acétal entre le carbone noté l' de la molécule de glucose non impliquée dans la liaison sophorosidique et le carbone ω ou o l de l'acide gras qui porte la fonction hydroxyle.Furthermore, the relative length of the R 2 and R 3 groups depends on the position of the hydroxyl group in the starting hydroxy fatty acid. Thus, it is advantageous to use hydroxy fatty acids in which the hydroxyl group is in the ω or ω-1 position and, in these cases, the carbohydrate and lipid fractions of the sophorolipids are linked together by an acetal bond between the noted carbon. l 'of the glucose molecule not involved in the sophoroside bond and the carbon ω or ol of the fatty acid which carries the hydroxyl function.
Par ailleurs, les sophorolipides peuvent se présenter soit sous forme acide, soit sous forme lactone ou en mélange de ces deux formes.Furthermore, the sophorolipids can be either in acid form, or in lactone form or as a mixture of these two forms.
Par ailleurs, les essais réalisés par les inventeurs de la présente invention ont montré que les concentrations en sophorolipides des compositions cosmétiques utilisées selon l'invention sont avantageusement comprises entre.0,01% et 5%, et de préférence entre 0,1% et 1%, en poids de ladite composition.Furthermore, the tests carried out by the inventors of the present invention have shown that the concentrations of sophorolipids in the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention are advantageously between 0.01% and 5%, and preferably between 0.1% and 1%, by weight of said composition.
Par ailleurs, les compositions cosmétiques utilisées selon l'invention peuvent être formulées sous toute forme destinée à un usage topique. Comme exposé précédemment, les compositions utilisées selon l'invention peuvent également comprendre un agent lipolytique choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'AMPc et ses dérivés, les agents activateurs de l'enzyme adenylate cyclase et les agents inhibiteurs de l'enzyme phosphodiesterase. De telles compositions constituent en elles-mêmes des produits nouveaux qui font l'objet du quatrième aspect de l'invention. De telles compositions contenant ces associations spécifiques s'avèrent particulièrement intéressantes, pour améliorer l'effet amincissant.Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions used according to the invention can be formulated in any form intended for topical use. As explained above, the compositions used according to the invention may also comprise a lipolytic agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme. Such compositions constitute in themselves new products which are the subject of the fourth aspect of the invention. Such compositions containing these specific associations prove to be particularly advantageous for improving the slimming effect.
Plus précisément, il est apparu que l'association d'au moins un sophorolipide tel que défini précédemment avec un ou plusieurs agents, ci-après désignés par agents lipolytiques, induisant une lipolyse, dans les adipocytes s'avère particulièrement intéressante dans le cadre de la présente invention, comme cela sera expliqué plus loin.More specifically, it appeared that the combination of at least one sophorolipid as defined above with one or more agents, hereinafter referred to as lipolytic agents, inducing lipolysis, in the adipocytes is particularly advantageous in the context of the present invention, as will be explained below.
En particulier, on choisira pour réaliser cette association au moins un agent lipolytique cosmétiquement acceptable dans le groupe constitué par l'adénosine-3',5'-cyclique monophosphate (A Pc) et ses dérivés, les agents activateurs de l'enzyme adenylate cyclase et les agents inhibiteurs de l'enzyme phosphodiesterase.In particular, to choose this association, at least one cosmetically acceptable lipolytic agent will be chosen from the group consisting of adenosine-3 ', 5'-cyclic monophosphate (A Pc) and its derivatives, agents activating the enzyme adenylate cyclase and phosphodiesterase inhibiting agents.
Comme agent activateur de l'adénylate cyclase, on choisira avantageusement la forskoline ou un extrait de plante en contenant, tel qu'un extrait de Coleus forskohlii ou Plectranthus barbatus, ou encore un extrait de la plante Tephrosia purpurea.As an activating agent for adenylate cyclase, forskolin or a plant extract containing it, such as an extract of Coleus forskohlii or Plectranthus barbatus, or an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea, will advantageously be chosen.
Comme agent inhibiteur de phosphodiesterase, on pourra utiliser une xanthine telle que la 3-isobutyl-l-méthyl-xanthine ou IBMX, la caféine ou la théophilline. Les compositions cosmétiques renfermant de telles associations, qui sont nouvelles en elles-mêmes, constituent le quatrième aspect de la présente invention.As an inhibitor of phosphodiesterase, it is possible to use a xanthine such as 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine or IBMX, caffeine or theophilline. Cosmetic compositions containing such associations, which are new in themselves, constitute the fourth aspect of the present invention.
Ainsi donc selon ce quatrième aspect, la présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, notamment destinée à réduire les surcharges graisseuses sous-cutanées, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient, à titre d'agent actif,Thus, according to this fourth aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular intended to reduce fatty overloads under the skin, characterized in that it contains, as active agent,
- au moins un sophorolipide tel que défini précédemment,- at least one sophorolipid as defined above,
- au moins un agent lipolytique cosmétiquement acceptable choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'AMPc et ses dérivés cosmétiquement acceptables, les agents activateurs de l'enzyme adenylate cyclase et les agents inhibiteurs de l'enzyme phosphodiesterase, dans un véhicule cosmétiquement acceptable.at least one cosmetically acceptable lipolytic agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its cosmetically acceptable derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle.
Dans les compositions nouvelles de l'invention, les sophorolipides sont contenus à une concentration comprise entre 0,01 % et 5 % et, de préférence, entre 0,1 % et 1 % en poids par rapport au poids total de ladite composition.In the novel compositions of the invention, the sophorolipids are contained in a concentration of between 0.01% and 5% and, preferably, between 0.1% and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
Les compositions cosmétiques nouvelles contiennent en outre au moins un agent actif lipolytique choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'AMPc et ses dérivés lipolytiques, les agents activateurs de l'enzyme adenylate cyclase et les agents inhibiteurs de l'enzyme phosphodiesterase. Dans ces compositions cosmétiques, l'AMPc ou son dérivé sera avantageusement utilisé à une concentration comprise entre à 0,001 % et 5 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.The novel cosmetic compositions also contain at least one lipolytic active agent chosen from the group consisting of cAMP and its lipolytic derivatives, agents activating the adenylate cyclase enzyme and agents inhibiting the phosphodiesterase enzyme. In these cosmetic compositions, the cAMP or its derivative will advantageously be used at a concentration of between 0.001% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
A titre de dérivé de l'AMPc, on pourra choisir tout dérivé de l'AMPc cosmétiquement acceptable et en particulier un sel ou un dérivé acylé, notamment un dérivé mono- ou dibutyryle.As a cAMP derivative, one can choose any cosmetically acceptable cAMP derivative and in particular a salt or an acylated derivative, in particular a mono- or dibutyryl derivative.
A titre d'agent activateur de l'enzyme adenylate cyclase, on choisit, de façon avantageuse, la forskoline ou un extrait de plante en contenant, de préférence à une concentration comprise entre 0,001 % et 1 % et, de préférence entre 0,05 % et 0,25 %, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.As an activating agent for the adenylate cyclase enzyme, forskolin or a plant extract containing it is advantageously chosen, preferably at a concentration of between 0.001% and 1% and preferably between 0.05 % and 0.25%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Comme extrait contenant de la forskoline, on choisira de préférence un extrait de Coleus forskohlii ou Plectranthus barbatus. Un tel extrait peut être obtenu par un procédé d'extraction tel que celui décrit dans la demande internationale WO 91/02516.As an extract containing forskolin, it is preferable to choose an extract of Coleus forskohlii or Plectranthus barbatus. Such an extract can be obtained by an extraction process such as that described in international application WO 91/02516.
On pourra également utiliser comme agent activateur de l'adénylate cyclase un extrait de la plante Tephrosia purpurea, à une concentration comprise entre 0,001 % et 5 %, de préférence entre 0,01 % et 5 %, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Un tel extrait peut être obtenu par un procédé d'extraction tel que celui décrit dans la demande internationale WO 95/03780.It is also possible to use as activating agent for adenylate cyclase an extract of the plant Tephrosia purpurea, at a concentration of between 0.001% and 5%, preferably between 0.01% and 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such an extract can be obtained by an extraction process such as that described in international application WO 95/03780.
Enfin, comme exposé précédemment, selon une autre variante, les compositions nouvelles selon l'invention contiennent un agent inhibiteur de la phosphodiesterase, en particulier une xanthine et, tout particulièrement, la 3-isobutyl-l-méthyl-xanthine (IBMX), la caféine ou la théophilline, de préférence à une concentration comprise entre 0,001 % et 10 %, de préférence entre 0,01 et 1 %, en poids par rapport au poids de la composition.Finally, as explained above, according to another variant, the new compositions according to the invention contain a phosphodiesterase inhibiting agent, in particular a xanthine and, very particularly, 3-isobutyl-1-methyl-xanthine (IBMX), caffeine or theophillin, preferably at a concentration of between 0.001% and 10%, preferably between 0.01 and 1%, by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Les compositions nouvelles utilisées selon la présente invention et qui contiennent une association de sophorolipides avec un agent lipolytique tel que l'AMPc et ses dérivés lipolytiques, les agents activateurs de l'adénylate cyclase et les agents inhibiteurs de la phosphodiesterase, s'avèrent particulièrement intéressantes du fait de l'action synergique des deux types de constituants. Sans que les inventeurs de la présente invention s'estiment totalement liés par cette explication, une interprétation plausible de l'effet de synergie observé est donnée ci-après.The novel compositions used according to the present invention and which contain a combination of sophorolipids with a lipolytic agent such as cAMP and its lipolytic derivatives, agents activating adenylate cyclase and agents inhibiting phosphodiesterase, prove to be particularly advantageous. due to the synergistic action of the two types of constituents. Without the inventors of the present invention feeling totally bound by this explanation, a plausible interpretation of the observed synergistic effect is given below.
Il a en effet été déjà observé que les agents favorisant une lipolyse dans les adipocytes, tels que les extraits de Coleus par exemple, présentent une efficacité biologique remarquable qui associe en général un important pouvoir lipolytique à une activité inhibitrice de la maturation adipocytaire. La réduction importante en volume et en quantité des vacuoles lipidiques après un traitement par l'agent lipolytique conduit à une réduction de la production de leptine. Il est donc probable que cette perte locale de leptine dans l'environnement proche des adipocytes résultant du traitement par l'agent lipolytique puisse être compensée par l'effet d'un produit stimulant la synthèse de la leptine. Le maintien d'une concentration suffisante en leptine dans l'environnement proche des adipocytes exerce ainsi un rôle qui s'oppose à l'augmentation de la masse adipeuse. Tout semble donc se passer comme si le message était émis par des cellules grasses qui informent par une opération de rétro-contrôle de la nécessité de réduire le stockage sous forme de triglycérides. Ainsi, grâce à l'action combinée des sophorolipides, et d'au moins un autre agent lipolytique, on obtient un effet amincissant renforcé et plus prolongé.It has in fact already been observed that agents promoting lipolysis in adipocytes, such as Coleus extracts for example, exhibit remarkable biological efficacy which generally associates an important lipolytic power with an inhibitory activity of adipocyte maturation. The significant reduction in volume and quantity of lipid vacuoles after treatment with the lipolytic agent leads to a reduction in the production of leptin. It is therefore probable that this local loss of leptin in the environment close to the adipocytes resulting from the treatment with the lipolytic agent can be compensated by the effect of a product stimulating the synthesis of leptin. Maintaining a sufficient concentration of leptin in the environment close to the adipocytes thus exerts a role which is opposed to the increase in the adipose mass. Everything therefore seems to happen as if the message was sent by fatty cells which inform by a back-control operation of the need to reduce storage in the form of triglycerides. Thus, thanks to the combined action of sophorolipids, and at least one other lipolytic agent, a reinforced and more prolonged slimming effect is obtained.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
Exemple 1 : Mise en évidence de l'effet des sophorolipides sur la synthèse de la leptine par les adipocytes de sourisEXAMPLE 1 Demonstration of the Effect of Sophorolipids on the Synthesis of Leptin by Mouse Adipocytes
1. Principe du test1. Principle of the test
Le concept selon lequel la masse adipeuse peut être régulée via des facteurs circulants sécrétés est très intéressant.The concept that body fat can be regulated via secreting circulating factors is very interesting.
Le principe du test est de mesurer la sécrétion de la leptine par les adipocytes.The principle of the test is to measure the secretion of leptin by adipocytes.
Le test utilise une technique immunoenzymatique "en sandwich". On tapisse les puits des microplaques avec un anticorps polyclonal de la leptine de souris. Les standards, contrôles et échantillons sont déposés dans les puits et à ce moment là, toute la leptine présente se lie à l'anticorps immobilisé.The test uses an immunoenzymatic "sandwich" technique. The microplate wells are coated with a polyclonal antibody to mouse leptin. The standards, controls and samples are deposited in the wells and at this time, all the leptin present binds to the immobilized antibody.
La leptine liée est ensuite détectée par un anticorps anti-leptine de souris couplé à une enzyme, la peroxydase. Une solution substrat est ensuite ajoutée dans les puits. La réaction enzymatique conduit à une solution bleue qui vire au jaune après ajout d'une solution d'arrêt.The bound leptin is then detected by an anti-mouse leptin antibody coupled to an enzyme, peroxidase. Substrate solution is then added to the wells. The enzymatic reaction leads to a blue solution which turns yellow after addition of a stop solution.
L'intensité de la couleur mesurée est proportionnelle à la quantité de leptine présente. La lecture de la densité optique est faite à 450 nm au spectrophotomètre.The intensity of the color measured is proportional to the amount of leptin present. The optical density is read at 450 nm with a spectrophotometer.
2. Matériel et méthodes2. Materials and methods
Culture de cellules 3T3-F442A :Culture of 3T3-F442A cells:
A partir d'une lignée établie de préadipocytes de souris 3T3, a été isolé un clone qui a la capacité d'accumuler de grandes quantités de triglycérides. Les agents lipolytiques réduisent cette accumulation. Il est donc apparu pertinent de tester des agents lipolytiques potentiels sur cette lignée de préadipocytes murins 3T3-F442A. Ces préadipocytes (GREEN H. and KEHINDE O. - Spontaneous Heritable Changes Leading to Increased Adipose Conversion in 3T3 Cells, Cell Vol. 7, 105-113, 1976) peuvent se multiplier et se différencier en présentant le phénotype morphologique et biochimique caractéristique de la fonction différenciée de l'adipocyte mature. Lorsqu'ils sont en phase exponentielle de croissance, ils sont d'apparence fibroblastique, présentent une forme allongée et sont très adhérents au support. A confluence lorsque les conditions le permettent, une transition morphologique très précoce leur confère une forme arrondie.A clone which has the capacity to accumulate large amounts of triglycerides has been isolated from an established line of 3T3 mouse preadipocytes. Lipolytic agents reduce this build-up. It therefore appeared appropriate to test potential lipolytic agents on this line of murine preadipocytes 3T3-F442A. These preadipocytes (GREEN H. and KEHINDE O. - Spontaneous Heritable Changes Leading to Increased Adipose Conversion in 3T3 Cells, Cell Vol. 7, 105-113, 1976) can multiply and differentiate by presenting the morphological and biochemical phenotype characteristic of differentiated function of the mature adipocyte. When they are in exponential growth phase, they are fibroblastic in appearance, have an elongated shape and are very adherent to the support. At confluence when conditions allow, a very early morphological transition gives them a rounded shape.
Les cellules connaissent alors un processus d'amplification clonale. A ces changements morphologiques s'ajoutent des accroissements de l'activité d'enzymes lipogenetiques ainsi que des augmentations de réponses de ces cellules à des facteurs hormonaux affectant la lipogénèse et la lipolyse.The cells then undergo a process of clonal amplification. To these morphological changes are added increases in the activity of lipogenetic enzymes as well as increases in the responses of these cells to hormonal factors affecting lipogenesis and lipolysis.
Les préadipocytes 3T3-F442A constituent donc un excellent modèle d'étude de la lipolyse du fait des transformations morphologiques et métaboliques acquises par les cellules pendant leur programme de développement. (Pairault J and Lasnier F : Control of adipogenetic différenciation of 3T3-F442A cells by retinoic acid, dexamethasone and insulin : a topographie analysis, J. cell Physiol. (1987), 132. 279-86).The 3T3-F442A preadipocytes therefore constitute an excellent model for studying lipolysis due to the morphological and metabolic transformations acquired by the cells during their development program. (Pairault J and Lasnier F: Control of adipogenetic differentiation of 3T3-F442A cells by retinoic acid, dexamethasone and insulin: a topographie analysis, J. cell Physiol. (1987), 132, 279-86).
D'après la littérature, la leptine est sécrétée par les adipocytes dans le milieu de culture. ("Insulin and cortisol promote leptin production in cultured human fat cells", Wabitsch M. and al, Diabètes, (1996), 45 (10), 1435-8 ; "Immunohistochemichal and ultrastructural localization of leptin and leptin receptor in human white adipose tissue and differentiating human adipose cells in primary culture", Bornstein S.R. et al, Diabètes, (2000), 49 (4), 532-8 ; "leptin, leptin receptors, and the control of body weight", Friedman J.M., Nutrition Reviews, 1998, 56 (2), Part 2).According to the literature, leptin is secreted by adipocytes in the culture medium. ("Insulin and cortisol promote leptin production in cultured human fat cells", Wabitsch M. and al, Diabetes, (1996), 45 (10), 1435-8; "Immunohistochemichal and ultrastructural localization of leptin and leptin receptor in human white adipose tissue and differentiating human adipose cells in primary culture ", Bornstein SR et al, Diabetes, (2000), 49 (4), 532-8;" leptin, leptin receptors, and the control of body weight ", Friedman JM, Nutrition Reviews , 1998, 56 (2), Part 2).
Dans les cellules 3T3-F442A, l'expression du gène ob a été particulièrement étudiée (Leroy P. et al, J. of Biol. Chem, 1996, 27_1 (5), 2365-2368 ; Considine R.V. and al., Horm. Res. 1996, 46, 249-256).In 3T3-F442A cells, the expression of the ob gene has been particularly studied (Leroy P. et al, J. of Biol. Chem, 1996, 27_1 (5), 2365-2368; Considine RV and al., Horm. Res. 1996, 46, 249-256).
Les préadipocytes 3T3-F442A sont ensemencés à J0 dans les boîtes de Pétri 35 mm (Corning) et mis à l'étuve à 37°C sous une atmosphère air-CO2 (95:5). Les cellules sont cultivées dans un milieu essentiel minimum de Eagle modifié (DMEM) selon Dulbecco (glucose 4,50 g/1) (GIBCO BRL) complémenté avec 5 % de sérum de veau (SV) (BIOMEDIA®) et 5 % de sérum de veau fœtal (GIBCO) pendant la phase de croissance. Le milieu est changé à J2 et J4.The 3T3-F442A preadipocytes are seeded on D0 in 35 mm petri dishes (Corning) and placed in the oven at 37 ° C. under an air-CO 2 atmosphere (95: 5). The cells are cultured in a minimum essential medium of modified Eagle (DMEM) according to Dulbecco (glucose 4.50 g / 1) (GIBCO BRL) supplemented with 5% calf serum (SV) (BIOMEDIA ® ) and 5% serum of fetal calf (GIBCO) during the growth phase. The medium is changed on D2 and D4.
A la confluence cellulaire (à J7), le milieu est changé : Le milieu de base reste le même (DMEM) mais est supplémenté avec 10 % de sérum de veau fœtal (SVF) et 5 μg/ml d'insuline (SIGMA). Le milieu est ensuite changé à J9 et Jll. A J14, J16 et J18, on effectue un traitement par les sophorolipides.At the cell confluence (on D7), the medium is changed: The basic medium remains the same (DMEM) but is supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum (SVF) and 5 μg / ml of insulin (SIGMA). The medium is then changed at D9 and Dll. On D14, D16 and D18, treatment is carried out with sophorolipids.
Pour le présent test, on utilise des sophorolipides commercialisés par la société Soliance (France) sous la dénomination Sopholiance®. A cet effet, on remplace le milieu par le milieu de composition ci-dessus auquel ont été ajoutés les sophorolipides aux concentrations indiquées ci-dessous. En raison de l'insolubilité des sophorolipides dans l'eau ou dans le milieu de culture, on utilise une solution-mère de sophorolipides préparée dans du DMSO, que l'on dilue dans du milieu de culture DMEM. Quatre concentrations différentes de sophorolipides sont ainsi testées : 10 μg/ml, 5 μg/ml, 2,5 μg/ml et 1 μg/ml, en comparaison avec une culture témoin. Pour les besoins du test, on change le milieu de culture témoin également à J14, 16 et 18. La partie surnageante est collectée avant ledit traitement à J16, J17, J18 et J21,For this test, we use Sophorolipids marketed by Soliance (France) under the name Sopholiance ®. To this end, the medium is replaced by the medium of the above composition to which the sophorolipids have been added at the concentrations indicated below. Due to the insolubility of the sophorolipids in water or in the culture medium, a stock solution of sophorolipids prepared in DMSO is used, which is diluted in DMEM culture medium. Four different concentrations of sophorolipids are thus tested: 10 μg / ml, 5 μg / ml, 2.5 μg / ml and 1 μg / ml, in comparison with a control culture. For the purposes of the test, the control culture medium is also changed on D14, 16 and 18. The supernatant part is collected before said treatment on D16, D17, D18 and D21,
Le protocole est résumé dans le Tableau I ci-dessousThe protocol is summarized in Table I below
Tableau ITable I
3. Dosage de la leptine La leptine sécrétée est déterminée au moyen d'une technique immuno-enzymatique de type ELISA dite "en sandwich", en recourant au kit de dosage Quantikine M mouse (R&D System, GB).3. Determination of leptin The secreted leptin is determined by means of an immuno-enzymatic technique of the ELISA type called "sandwich", using the Quantikine M mouse assay kit (R&D System, UK).
Ce dosage ELISA utilise la leptine de souris recombinée, exprimée dans E. Coli et des anticorps dirigés contre la leptine recombinante de souris.This ELISA assay uses the recombinant mouse leptin, expressed in E. Coli and antibodies directed against the recombinant mouse leptin.
Les différentes opérations du dosage sont effectuées suivant les directives accompagnant le kit de dosage précité.The different dosing operations are carried out according to the instructions accompanying the aforementioned dosing kit.
Schématiquement, on tapisse, dans une première étape, les puits des microplaques avec l'anticorps polyclonal de la leptine de souris. Les standards permettant l'étalonnage des résultats, et les échantillons de surnageant témoins et de cultures traitées, sont ensuite déposés dans les puits. Toute la leptine présente se lie alors à l'anticorps ainsi immobilisé.Schematically, the wells of the microplates are coated in a first step with the polyclonal antibody of mouse leptin. The standards allowing the calibration of the results, and the samples of control supernatant and of treated cultures, are then deposited in the wells. All of the leptin present then binds to the antibody thus immobilized.
La leptine liée est ensuite détectée par un anticorps anti-leptine de souris couplé à une peroxydase. Ainsi, après avoir introduit dans les puits la peroxydase, on ajoute ensuite une solution substrat. La réaction enzymatique conduit à une solution bleue qui vire au jaune après ajout d'une solution d'arrêt.The bound leptin is then detected by an anti-mouse leptin antibody coupled to a peroxidase. Thus, after having introduced the peroxidase into the wells, a substrate solution is then added. The enzymatic reaction leads to a blue solution which turns yellow after addition of a stop solution.
La densité optique de cette solution est mesurée au spectrophotomètre à 450 nm. Elle est proportionnelle à la quantité d'anticorps fixé, elle-même proportionnelle à la quantité de leptine initialement présente. Les résultats sont exprimés en pg/ml de leptine présents dans les surnageants cellulaires.The optical density of this solution is measured with a spectrophotometer at 450 nm. It is proportional to the amount of antibody attached, itself proportional to the amount of leptin initially present. The results are expressed in pg / ml of leptin present in the cell supernatants.
Chaque test est réalisé trois fois.Each test is performed three times.
Les résultats obtenus sont les suivants :The results obtained are as follows:
Tableau II Concentrations en leptine (pg/ml) dans les surnageantsTable II Leptin concentrations (pg / ml) in the supernatants
De l'examen des résultats contenus dans le tableau ci-dessus, on observe tout d'abord que, la comparaison des résultats obtenus à J 17 et J18 montre une accumulation de leptine plus marquée dans la culture traitée que dans les cultures-témoin. La comparaison des résultats obtenus à J16, J17 et J18 montre, d'autre part que l'effet du traitement sur la sécrétion de leptine ne se fait sentir que 48 heures après le traitement. De plus, on observe qu'avec le temps, la production de leptine augmente. Ceci démontre que plus les cellules se différencient en adipocytes (le milieu de culture étant un milieu de différenciation), plus se constitue un potentiel de production de leptine.From the examination of the results contained in the table above, it is observed first of all that, the comparison of the results obtained on D 17 and D 18 shows a more marked accumulation of leptin in the culture treated than in the control cultures. The comparison of the results obtained on D16, D17 and D18 shows, on the other hand, that the effect of the treatment on the secretion of leptin is felt only 48 hours after the treatment. In addition, it is observed that over time, the production of leptin increases. This shows that the more the cells differentiate in adipocytes (the culture medium being a differentiation medium), the greater the potential for leptin production.
Exemple 2 - Mise en évidence de l'effet des sophorolipides sur la synthèse de la leptine par les adipocytes humainsEXAMPLE 2 Demonstration of the Effect of Sophorolipids on the Synthesis of Leptin by Human Adipocytes
1 - Principe du test1 - Principle of the test
Le but du test est de mesurer l'effet des sophorolipides sur la sécrétion de leptine par des adipocytes humains sous-cutanés. Les tests ont été réalisés avec trois concentrations du composé testé à 5 heures.The purpose of the test is to measure the effect of sophorolipids on leptin secretion by human subcutaneous adipocytes. The tests were carried out with three concentrations of the test compound at 5 hours.
Les quantités de leptine sécrétées ont été déterminées en recourant au kit de détermination de la quantité de leptine Quantikine Human Leptin Immunoassay kit (R&D System, GB). 2 - ProtocoleThe quantities of leptin secreted were determined using the kit for determining the quantity of leptin Quantikine Human Leptin Immunoassay kit (R&D System, UK). 2 - Protocol
Des préadipocytes humains sous-cutanés sont cultivés dans des microplaques à 24 puits.Subcutaneous human preadipocytes are cultured in 24-well microplates.
Les concentrations de produits testés sont respectivement de 1, 2,5 et 5 ng/ml. Le témoin négatif utilisé dans le test est la solution de DMSO correspondant à la concentration maximum.The concentrations of products tested are 1, 2.5 and 5 ng / ml respectively. The negative control used in the test is the DMSO solution corresponding to the maximum concentration.
Le témoin positif est l'insuline à 100 nM.The positive control is 100 nM insulin.
Les traitements ont été effectués pendant 5 heures et 24 heures.The treatments were carried out for 5 hours and 24 hours.
Les préadipocytes sont ensemencés et maintenus jusqu'à différenciation en absence des composés à tester pendant environ 3 semaines. Puis, ils sont introduits dans le milieu de base, en absence de toute hormone pendant 3 jours.The preadipocytes are seeded and maintained until differentiation in the absence of the test compounds for approximately 3 weeks. Then, they are introduced into the basic medium, in the absence of any hormone for 3 days.
Les étapes du traitement sont les suivantes :The processing steps are as follows:
1. Traitement des cellules avec les sophorolipides (Sopholiance®) aux concentrations de lng/ml, 2,5ng/ml et 5 ng/ml. Des cultures non traitées par les sophorolipides sont également réalisées pour servir de témoins. De l'insuline (100 nM) est utilisée comme témoin positif. Chaque test est fait trois fois.1. Treatment of cells with sophorolipids (Sopholiance ® ) at concentrations of lng / ml, 2.5ng / ml and 5 ng / ml. Cultures not treated with sophorolipids are also produced to serve as controls. Insulin (100 nM) is used as a positive control. Each test is done three times.
2. Incubation des plaques à 37°C pendant 5 heures et 24 heures. 3. A la fin de chaque période d'incubation, prélèvement de 100 μl de chaque milieu dans chaque puits et congélation de l'échantillon. 4. La leptine sécrétée est déterminée au moyen d'une technique ELISA de type sandwich en recourant au kit de dosage Quantikine Human Leptin kit (R&D System, GB).2. Incubation of the plates at 37 ° C for 5 hours and 24 hours. 3. At the end of each incubation period, take 100 μl of each medium from each well and freeze the sample. 4. The secreted leptin is determined using an ELISA technique of the sandwich type using the Quantikine Human Leptin kit (R&D System, UK).
Pour réaliser ce dosage, on opère selon les instructions accompagnant le kit de dosage.To carry out this assay, the procedure is carried out according to the instructions accompanying the assay kit.
Ainsi, on ajoute 100 μl d'une base protéinique tamponnée dans chaque puits d'une microplaque tapissée d'un anticorps monoclonal humain contre la leptine. Puis, on ajoute 100 μl de chaque échantillon et du témoin. On laisse ensuite incuber pendant 2 heures à 25°C. Après lavage de l'échantillon témoin, on ajoute 200 μl d'un anticorps monoclonal humain contre la leptine conjugué à de la peroxydase de radis noir dans chaque puits et on laisse incuber pendant 1 heure à 25°C. Après cette étape, on ajoute dans chaque puits 200 μl d'un substrat et on laisse incuber pendant 30 minutes à 25°C. On arrête finalement la réaction par addition de 50 μl de solution d'arrêt et on note l'absorbance à 450 nm.Thus, 100 μl of a buffered protein base is added to each well of a microplate coated with a human monoclonal antibody against leptin. Then, 100 μl of each sample and of the control are added. It is then left to incubate for 2 hours at 25 ° C. After washing the control sample, 200 μl of a human monoclonal antibody against leptin conjugated to black radish peroxidase are added to each well and the mixture is left to incubate for 1 hour at 25 ° C. After this step, 200 μl of a substrate are added to each well and incubated for 30 minutes at 25 ° C. The reaction is finally stopped by adding 50 μl of stop solution and the absorbance at 450 nm is noted.
RésultatsResults
Les résultats moyens obtenus en ce qui concerne la concentration en leptine obtenue, après 5 heures de traitement, dans les différents échantillons testés contenant respectivement 1 ng/ml, 2,5 ng/ml etThe average results obtained with regard to the leptin concentration obtained, after 5 hours of treatment, in the various samples tested containing respectively 1 ng / ml, 2.5 ng / ml and
5 ng/ml de sophorolipides, en comparaison avec le témoin et le témoin positif (insuline 100 nM), sont donnés dans le tableau III ci-dessous :5 ng / ml of sophorolipids, in comparison with the control and the positive control (insulin 100 nM), are given in table III below:
Tableau III Concentrations en leptine (pg/ml) dans les surnageantsTable III Leptin concentrations (pg / ml) in the supernatants
On observe que la sécrétion de leptine augmente avec la concentration en sophorolipides. Exemple 3 - Compositions cosmétiques contenant des sophorolipidesIt is observed that the secretion of leptin increases with the concentration of sophorolipids. Example 3 Cosmetic Compositions Containing Sophorolipids
On donne ci-dessous des formules cosmétiques contenant des sophorolipides. Dans ces formules, les compositions sont exprimées en pourcentage en poids.Cosmetic formulas containing sophorolipids are given below. In these formulas, the compositions are expressed as a percentage by weight.
Dans toutes ces compositions, les sophorolipides utilisés sont un mélange commercial résultant de la bioconversion par Candida bombicola d'un substrat glucidique contenant des sucres extraits du blé et d'un substrat lipidique provenant de l'extraction des esters methyliques d'acide gras de l'huile de colza.In all of these compositions, the sophorolipids used are a commercial mixture resulting from the bioconversion by Candida bombicola of a carbohydrate substrate containing sugars extracted from wheat and of a lipid substrate derived from the extraction of methyl esters of fatty acid from l 'Colza oil.
1 - Formule hvdro/alcoolique amincissante1 - Slimming hvdro / alcoholic formula
Eau qsp 100,00 %Water qs 100.00%
Alcool éthylique 42,00 %Ethyl alcohol 42.00%
PEG 32 1,50 %PEG 32 1.50%
Menthoxypropanediol q.s.Menthoxypropanediol q.s.
Parfum 0,20 %Perfume 0.20%
Sophorolipides (Sopholiance®) 0,20 %Sophorolipids (Sopholiance ® ) 0.20%
2 - Emulsion fluide amincissante2 - Slimming fluid emulsion
PPG 2 isoceteth-20 acétate 2,00 %PPG 2 isoceteth-20 acetate 2.00%
Poloxamer 407 0,50 %Poloxamer 407 0.50%
Propylèneglycol isoceteth-3 acétate 15,00 %Propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate 15.00%
Pentacyclométhicone 15,00 %Pentacyclomethicone 15.00%
Eau qsp. 100,00 %Water qs. 100.00%
Butylèneglycol 3,00 %Butylene glycol 3.00%
Conservateurs q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Gomme xanthane 0,05 %0.05% xanthan gum
Acrylates/clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0,04 %Acrylates / clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.04%
Neutralisant q.s.Neutralizing q.s.
Polyacrylamide cl3-14 isoparaffin laureth-7 0,50 %Polyacrylamide cl3-14 isoparaffin laureth-7 0.50%
Parfum 0,20 %Perfume 0.20%
Sophorolipides (Ipoleose®) 0,20 % 3 - Crème amincissanteSophorolipids (Ipoleose ® ) 0.20% 3 - Slimming cream
Steareth-2 0,50%Steareth-2 0.50%
Steareth-21 1,75%Steareth-21 1.75%
Alcool cétylique 0,30%Cetyl alcohol 0.30%
Alcool stéarylique 0,30%0.30% stearyl alcohol
Acide stéarique 0,50%Stearic acid 0.50%
Stéarate éthyle-2-hexyle 4,00%Ethyl-2-hexyl stearate 4.00%
Cetearyl isononanoate 3,00%Cetearyl isononanoate 3.00%
Squalane 4,00%Squalane 4.00%
IBMX 1,00%IBMX 1.00%
Diméthicone 0,40%Dimethicone 0.40%
Eau qsp.100.00%Water qs. 100.00%
Glycérine 2,00%Glycerin 2.00%
Butylène glycol 3,00%Butylene glycol 3.00%
Conservateurs q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Acrylates/clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0,35%Acrylates / clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.35%
Gomme xanthane 0,10%0.10% xanthan gum
Sodium hyaluronate 0,02%Sodium hyaluronate 0.02%
Neutralisant q.s.Neutralizing q.s.
Polyacrylamide C13-14 isoparaffin laureth 7 0,50%Polyacrylamide C13-14 isoparaffin laureth 7 0.50%
Alcool dénaturé 5,00%Denatured alcohol 5.00%
Parfum 0,20% sophorolipides (Sopholiance®) 1,00%Perfume 0.20% sophorolipids (Sopholiance ® ) 1.00%
Exemple 4 - Emulsion fluide amincissanteEXAMPLE 4 Slimming Fluid Emulsion
PPG-2 isoœteth-20 acétate 2 %PPG-2 isoœteth-20 acetate 2%
Poloxamer 407 0,50 %Poloxamer 407 0.50%
Propylène glycol isoceteth-3 acétate 15 %Propylene glycol isoceteth-3 acetate 15%
Pentacyclométhicone 15 %Pentacyclomethicone 15%
Eau qsp.100 %Water qs. 100%
Butylène glycol 3 %Butylene glycol 3%
Conservateurs q.s.Preservatives q.s.
Extrait de Coleus forskohiii (à 80 % de forskoline) 0,1 % Gomme xanthane 0,05% Acrylates/clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0,04%Coleus forskohiii extract (80% forskolin) 0.1% Xanthan gum 0.05% Acrylates / clO-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer 0.04%
Neutralisant q.s.Neutralizing q.s.
Polyacrylamide C13-14 isoparaffin laureth-7 0,50%Polyacrylamide C13-14 isoparaffin laureth-7 0.50%
Parfum 0,20% sophorolipides (Sopholiance®) 0,50% Perfume 0.20% sophorolipids (Sopholiance ® ) 0.50%
Claims
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR03/06664 | 2003-06-03 | ||
| FR0306664A FR2855752B1 (en) | 2003-06-03 | 2003-06-03 | COSMETIC USE OF SOPHOROLIPIDS AS REGULATORY AGENTS OF SUB-CUTANEOUS ADIPOSE MASS AND APPLICATION TO SLURRY |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| WO2004108063A2 true WO2004108063A2 (en) | 2004-12-16 |
| WO2004108063A3 WO2004108063A3 (en) | 2005-01-27 |
Family
ID=33443106
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/FR2004/001359 WO2004108063A2 (en) | 2003-06-03 | 2004-06-02 | Cosmetic use of sophorolipids as subcutaneous adipose cushion regulating agents and slimming application |
Country Status (2)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| FR (1) | FR2855752B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2004108063A2 (en) |
Cited By (4)
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP2555620A4 (en) * | 2010-04-05 | 2013-10-23 | Politechnic Inst Univ New York | COMPOSITIONS OF SOPHOROLIPID ANALOGUES |
| WO2013182759A1 (en) | 2012-06-06 | 2013-12-12 | Soliance | Biosolubilizer |
| WO2013098066A3 (en) * | 2011-12-28 | 2014-08-28 | Evonik Industries Ag | Aqueous hair and skin cleaning compositions comprising biotensides |
| WO2020173638A1 (en) * | 2019-02-28 | 2020-09-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Glycolipid-containing cleansing preparation containing micelles |
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| US10190038B2 (en) | 2014-04-21 | 2019-01-29 | Baker Hughes, A Ge Company, Llc | Method of using sophorolipids in well treatment operations |
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| WO2018145966A1 (en) | 2017-02-10 | 2018-08-16 | Evonik Degussa Gmbh | Oral care composition containing at least one biosurfactant and fluoride |
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Family Cites Families (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2735979B1 (en) * | 1995-06-28 | 1997-08-14 | Inst Francais Du Petrole | USE AS THERAPEUTICALLY ACTIVE SUBSTANCES OR COSMETIC PRODUCTS OF SOPHOROLIPIDS, PARTICULARLY FOR THE TREATMENT OF THE SKIN |
| FR2757766B1 (en) * | 1996-12-27 | 1999-02-19 | Inst Francais Du Petrole | USE OF SOPHOROLIPIDS AS A STIMULATOR OF THE METABOLISM OF DERMAL FIBROBLASTS |
| FR2779057B1 (en) * | 1998-05-29 | 2001-06-15 | Inst Francais Du Petrole | USE OF SOPHOROLIPIDS COMPRISING DIACETYLATED LACTONS AS A STIMULATOR OF THE METABOLISM OF FIBROBLASTS OF THE SKIN |
| JP4182183B2 (en) * | 1999-08-24 | 2008-11-19 | ディーエスエム アイピー アセッツ ビー．ブイ． | Slimming skin cosmetics |
-
2003
- 2003-06-03 FR FR0306664A patent/FR2855752B1/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
2004
- 2004-06-02 WO PCT/FR2004/001359 patent/WO2004108063A2/en active Application Filing
Cited By (7)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP2555620A4 (en) * | 2010-04-05 | 2013-10-23 | Politechnic Inst Univ New York | COMPOSITIONS OF SOPHOROLIPID ANALOGUES |
| WO2013098066A3 (en) * | 2011-12-28 | 2014-08-28 | Evonik Industries Ag | Aqueous hair and skin cleaning compositions comprising biotensides |
| US9271908B2 (en) | 2011-12-28 | 2016-03-01 | Evonik Industries Ag | Aqueous hair and skin cleaning compositions comprising biotensides |
| WO2013182759A1 (en) | 2012-06-06 | 2013-12-12 | Soliance | Biosolubilizer |
| FR2991688A1 (en) * | 2012-06-06 | 2013-12-13 | Soliance | BIOSOLUBILISANT |
| WO2020173638A1 (en) * | 2019-02-28 | 2020-09-03 | Beiersdorf Ag | Glycolipid-containing cleansing preparation containing micelles |
| EP4140472A1 (en) * | 2019-02-28 | 2023-03-01 | Beiersdorf AG | Glycolipid-containing cleansing preparation containing micelles |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| WO2004108063A3 (en) | 2005-01-27 |
| FR2855752B1 (en) | 2005-08-26 |
| FR2855752A1 (en) | 2004-12-10 |
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