US946651A - Buttonhole-sewing machine. - Google Patents

Description

E. B. ALLEN'J: J. 0. Emma.

nlv

BU'I'TOIHOLE SEWING MAOIIIB. Anuonxol nun no.1. ml. Patented Jan. 18, W10

8 III! IBIS? l mmm's E. B. ALLEN (a I. 0. RIIGB. BUTTOIIOLI IB'IIO 111ml. APPXJOAHOI nun AUG-1. ml.

Patented Jan. 18,1910. I lIllll-lllll I.

MAID IIIGIII ALLII Ill-Y.

F 'tgENT OFFICE. Y

AID it!!! 0. MIDI, "'0" 70 I'll "loll IAIUIAOIUIIIO OI annomar.

OOIIIOI'IM. AI- OOIIAI'I.

A COMM?!" 0' I" IUII'OIHOLl-IIWIIG IAUHIII To on whom it an: concern:

'Jie it known tiat we, Eowaao'liaacnaa Mum and Jomt C. Rnma, citizens of the United States, midia at Bridgeport. m e the county of l 'airtiel and State of Conneeteut,

fol lm 'mwcnnmta in Bnttonlmle-Sewin Machines. of which the followiti'g a a specttlcation, reference being hml therem to the to acunmamying drawlngn.

'I'hin invention has or its object to provide a purl-thread guide which shall accomnnn'lute itself to uvcrsemning stitch-forming mechanism for changes in the direction of It feed. as in lmttonhole stitching machines and r emhroidcring machines wherein the stitching ptcehanism is mounted independently of the ecdin mechanism and titW'l not follow changes o direction of the latter.

The present invention is tlt'st nod espeeiallv for emlnalintent in straight mttonhole elite ting machines of the class cxem iliticd in that forming the sub cct ot the vattcd State patent of Edward] Allen No. 800.231, 1 i dated llecemhcl' ii, i005. althon h adapted for me in other typea'ot mac tines. the lmttonhole machine referred to. the verlically rccipt'm'uting tlp'eml-carrying needle receives lateral or uverscaming movements throughout the cycle of operation of the machine. the work being hchl in a travclintg clamp to which are imparted alternate tit \ttttt't! and wtmgrade. step-[matey fcodin movements to space the stitches. Intermedi- :ns ate dwells for the prmluction of harrin atiinites at oliposite ends of the'lnttttmhole, and-lateral nl'tin movements for properly [msitioning the N gV-tttn'ttill" aml barring stitches in a manner well-known. According to the present imprm'ement. in titl n'et'crrcd form. a purl-thread or cordgun e ts ntountcd upon an oscillatin carrier ournaled enhatantmlly concentrica l v.with tltc needle-liar and is no controlled that to its delivery eye is maintained in advance of the stitching mechanism during the stitching of the first side of the lmttonhole. and is hen thrown to the aide tlf tilt.t't liicllillg mcchpnintn for the first hart-mg operation,.

to after which it is shifted to a position diam rn'allv op iosite its initial pnaitiun in relation tot 1e stitch-forming mechanism which It maintains during the stitching of the secoml side of thc huttonltole aml the barrln it of the second end, after which both the acelpeatl eattea at httera latent. lnllaattea am August 1. 1000. Intel Ia. 661,811.

have invented certain new and nae-- Patented Jan. 18, 1910.

die-thread and the purl-thread are car by a common cuttin implement in the p'rescot instance carri by the clamping foot of the work-holder. By maiatatnin the purhthrcad tale to advance of the a itchornnng mec anlsm throughout both the advance and retrograde feedlot; movements, the purl-thread is adapted to ie laid upon the work where it is stitched in place and emhraced by the side overseam stitches. while the lateral deflection of the nrl-thread at the end of the first sitlt' stit ing operation permits the laying of a succession of bar stitches and the secure anchorage of the last side-ovcrseam-etitch in line with the center of the buttonholc slit so that in the subsequent reversal of the poeition of the threadgnlde the last ovcrseatn atitch of the first side, aflorda a-tlrm turning point for the part-thread or card so that t 0 lead of the atter will be mthm the field of operation of the stitch-fanning mechanism in beginnin the overscammg of the second aide of the mttoaholc. A similar deflection of the pnt'l-tlnrud is not required at the initial end of tho hattonholc. tor the reason that means in re provided for severing such thread at the com iletion of the stitching operation.

'1 to present invention will he understood by reference to tin-accompanying drawings, as in whjch-- Figure l is a rear side elevation. partly in section. of a bnttonhole stitchi machine of the well-known Singer No. 7 class. emlnalying the present improvements, and Fig. 2 is a bottom lan view of the some. Fig :l is a sectiona plan of the machine with the bracket-arm removed to expose the mechanism heneuth. Fig. 4 is a perspective view of the pnrling mechanism, and Fig. ii a similar view of a irtion thereof taken from a different position. Fig. 6 is a rear end view of the forward portion of the operating mechanism of the purl-thread g'nide. Fig. 7 is a bottom plan of the elampin foot. .of the work-holder with'the removal a section omitted to ex me, the cutting and nipping devices, and ig. 8 a sectional elevation o e same.

machine is constructed with the usual 10a hcd- )late I and overhanging bracket-arm 2 in w tieh is jonrnaled tla main-shatt 8 rativc connected at its forward end with t e needle-hat- 4 havin the thread-carr in needle 5. .-\s in the said Potent- No. 800 3 1 the swinging lu-cdlc-fremo tl derives it: leterel movemente, which ere eommunice to the needle-her and needle, through e pitmen connection 1, rocker 8 end link-her 9 to it which letter ere mnmnnniceted endwiee recipruceting movements for imperti to the needle lte eide-ettteh end ber-etiteh in; movemeute, end eidewiee niovemente ect the eou of eeid her elternetely to dito! ite-ewln tn eetuetor. The

I to terent "I d nen mig.mrwerdly extending teil 10 of th lint: r to edepted in ite leterel move- The lower end of the eeesih'io-rod eeotton votelly eonneoted with e leterel erln ring e depending em 17 by one end of e pitmhn-rod 18 end to eonneoted w:

1 end 0! e leterelly 'oe u' loam """"oe 'iinii min a: time which the he ere the wo'rh-olen'tp; end the one Q hee e eeeond' eem'groeve 88 entered by e dud t'erried rook-lever I0 hilerelnedeteo'end he ngiteofpoeite endeonmetedgxmeeneoteeerew 1 with the elide-plnte of the work-holder, whereby the le erel ehit'ti movement: ere eomw -holder. Then r w t ""ll of t work-holder ie row mu] m a u wht'eh jimm in the deeonneeted byp PM of the u perehnn derer so t elelnpl oot 87 w th lower beet-tug port enterin end normelly IQth man the bo tom 0 the room so formed to t m pt the nlidu-plete 32.

A- hereto men within the e uttle reee 89 eotlperetee with u needle in the production if overeeeln Geeurod to the lower end of the heed of the hreeketem 8 to e hearing plete 4o purellol with the bed plete end formed with on o )ttltin 41 out-rounding the needle-her to w ich en oeoillettng shuttle eee,eei

is fitted the hub -12 of u hcgmcutul pinion tit hnruuz un nnuuier notch near its upper end entered by the inner edge of the sectiolntl thruutdate it secured upon the bearing plate 4 by lllt'ttlltt of screws 4b.

The purl-thread ide is formed with n lnterelly otl'set shnn 40 secured at its upper end by means of fastening screws 41 to the pinion 43 and hes near its lower end e threed e ierturc 'ttt forming the mouth ot e threed 1 c lttltlltl -l0 extending downwardly throu the contracted lower portion tit) of t \e thread-guide end tormineting in a delivery opening at the lower end o the some. Ao will be observed, the oscilletion of the pinion 43 by means ehout to lie-described causes the purl-threed guide to eseuine positions et diterent siden ofthe etitch-torming lnecheniem end the path of movement of the needle Ii.

Fulcrumed upon the bottom of the hearng plete 40 b meene of the screw-stud :ll is e rocking p ete 5Q heving e no mental seriee of fieer teeth 58 meehin wit l the tecth of the p nion' 48, end edep to oeeillote the eeme. At one etde ot\the fulcrum-screw m the rocking into 62 ie rovided with e pertoreted eer emb by the forked hcud 55 of e eectionel connecting rod pirotelly ntteched thereto by meene of e screw-pin 56. The rod 57 to which the heed 55 1e oonneeted, in formed et in reertverd end with o fixed ooller 58 titted withm the tubuler section 69 end heving tnterpoeed between the eeme end the torwerd end of the cevity in the eeetion 59 the epring 69, whereby the eeetionel rod ie normelly meintetned in contrected condition, with the coller 5B tirmly eeeted upon the threeded buehi 01 enterin; the reerwerd end of the eeet on no and heving e reerwerdly extendin log 62 secured by meene of eercwe M to the eee of e ttlutted e ide-plete 04 whoee rectenmer control oponin on embreree e guide- .l: 00 titted u n t e upright eheft 7 of the tout-wheel The eide-plete 64 reete upon end is supported by the ttern-oem 08 fixed upon the feed cent-she 6 end hee e depem "If in 00 normelly renting upon the lure etepped 0 've edge of he cent and eonetitnting e follower therefor being memteined in yielding contect therewith by meene of e opt-inst 10 into between e etud ll upon the u 0) en e etutl 72 upon the lower end of tie hood of the brute etertn: The alidolate 04 is confined upon the it per fece o the com 08 by nu-nnh of e disk 3 whose hub is fixed upon the feed eem-eheft 07. As indiented more particulerlv in l i 3 and 5, the cum 08 is of noncrnl Hllttii-H iepc with thrcehtcps at one iude forlucd by two udjncont notches H and 15, which n ord on inner, an outer and en tuit'rmndiute step which the big tit) in unused vto nuccee iroly tllflllflfi lllltitl' the action of t the spring 70 in the rotation of the cam 68. no

IOU

ltlli t-tlpon opposite margins of tho 'buttonholr l i.

t naeting rod immediately begins ita retraetile as connecting rod in gradually retratted and 6 with an overhanging log 8! carrying an ad- OQOJBI (B The poaitiona of the parts mpreseutcd in ml to 4 inclusive, are those manned on tel alter the tint barring operation and whi e the around side of the hnttonholo to being ltitched, whereby the delivery end of the purl-thread guide is shifted into a poaition III front oft e needle hv-the aetion of the apring 70 upon the slide-plate 64, the lug 09 having rented upon the outer periphery to or portion a of larger curvature o the ram 68 aa re relented in Fig. during the stitehillg of flrd aide of the bnttonhole and entered the notch 74 so as to rest upon the intermediate atep b for the first barrio v oporation and entered the second non-h in an as to meet u n the step c at the eompletiou of the bat-ri operation for the stitching of the aeeond at e of the hnttonhole. A: the purl thread-guide has an oecillatory 2o movement around the needle-path, it will be lean that when the log 09 of the slide-plate M w a l the atep b of the pattern-rant 68, t read-guide delivery opening aeaumea I polition at one side of tho stitrh' ea forming mechaniam and intermediate its estretne positions upon opposite sides of the needle which it occupies in the respertire aide atitching operations of the machine:

' this intermediate position is assumed while the loo itudinal feeding merhanism ie inactive an the barring is being done iniate the lateral movements of the Wot k for spacing the lines of sido stitrhes As the eection 59 of the extensible roumovement under the artion of the eet-entritportion 0, of the pattern-cant during the atitching of the second side of the button-- 40 hole, it is necessary to forcibly detain the purl-thread guide in ita third or extreme poattion to prevent its premature return to initial poaitton. To thts end.-the rm-king-plate 69 in formed in its upper side with a tmtrh 46 70 entered b the ratchet shaped tooth 77 of a detent b oclr 78 fixed upon the free end of the flat ring 79 which is secured at ita- 3pc. e by means of fastening arrows upon the top of the bearing late 40. .\a

re the plate 52 carrying the toot ed motor 53 la rocked to bring the thread-guide into extrelne poaition. the tooth 77 of the detent anapa into the notch 76 of said plate and detaina the some while the section at) at tho the apring 00 in correaptmdingly compressed by the dtdenaton of the component members of the connecting rod between which it in interpoaed. The detent block 78 is provided notable atud-aerew 82 with lock-nut 88. the ower and of the atnd-nerew being engaged v at the oompletidh of each stitching operation by the operating crank-arm 84 fixed OLupon one end of the tension releaao rock- Shaft 85 having :tt its oppo-itv end an arm 86 with Wrdge-rdm Ntl otttt't' end HT adapted to enter the spare a-twoen and reparatithe tension-disks tin a'tuanuer welldmownn 'l'bo means tor at-tuating the tendon relea 70 ing device will br latvr desrrila-d in tt llllt tion with the thread severing dovit-e.

As in the l'nitt-d States patent to Edward li. Allen .\'o. ammo. the t-laln ing loot. t-onstituting the upper nn'mla-r o the 75 work-holder. is formed at one side of its forward end with a slot parallel with its oppdr face. the lower side of 'lllt'h is closed by means of a detat'habhsertion 3:5". and journaled in an upright bearing boas it" so upon the body of the clamping foot it; a rntter roe -shaft 90 having fixed upon its lower end by means of a arrow 00" the thread-rotting blade til adapted to t-oiipt-rate with n rutting edge 92 formed a mu tin 86 'ehupping foot .w-tiou it! tn rotting tho threads, and a .iilllilptlfil'tl nipping blade Us. eoiiperating with relatively .-tutionur jaws: rarried by the body of the foot in nipping the threads. The opt-rative edge of tho 90 nipping blade is provided in its outer portion with two thread-rewiring non-hes t t and 95 with an intermediate spur or threaddiriding linger in. for separating the needlethread and purl-thread at the t-ompletion of 95 a stitrhing operation. The bottom of the foot-portion 122 is fornn-d ilnnn'diatelyabove the path of movement of the thrend-notrh 94 with nri id ilat e-a'nt operating in mm- Jltltt'llttlt wit I ilw adjat-ent upper fare of the 10:)

thread nipping bladr to nip thr needlethread. and ndjnt'ont said seat the foot-purtion 32 in I'm-014ml to tau-rive yielding t ttli or jaw 97 in the form of a blm-k Whoso thin annnh 2 is set into the top of the foot 3:! l0.- nnd .w-rnred lllt'lt'lll ht moans of n fa-tr||- ing Ht'ltW till, the t-llttltlt 98 being snllit-irutly thin and elastic to permit the-blank i to .Yll'ltl upwardlyslightly to m-t-onnnodattthe nip ting devire to the larger purl-thread H0 pre erably employed in the working of buttonhoh's; remraented in Fig. 3. the operative corner of the blot-lg 97 is nott-hed or t't'tt'hnttl to in-nrr the proper lot'atioti'of the purl-thread under the notion of the niptit; ping blade 93. .\a will be observed. the cutting blade is separate from the nipping blade for t-om'enietn-e in sharpening or for renewal. and its operative edge is tlisptlflt'tl alightly bark of that of the nipping blade to I20 than! the nipping of the threads prior to their being severed. A atop-arrow It") is provided in the mth of nnwt-nn-nt oi the nipping blade to limit it! tot-ward or operntlvu movement.

.- The rnttrr rorh-ahai't has H-t'nrod to its p|\'ota|| v rontn-t-trti the t'orwardend of a !lltlt'-l'tnl 102 whose rearward end is sup ported Wllltlll a l)tttl'l|l,' it! mounted upon iii) 'ttt'inotl whilo it out-vying t'lntnp tnoinhor'itti -tion with said moppingoum at the oomotthe tag 119 when tho l'ihl' of the dangerotmatzotitottt of the log lit) with the stud 118.

Ill :ii' hon tho atttppltttl loror P12 s again thrown I tho nppor u'or u latnp' lo\or Ii i u-nti pro'l \ltlt'tl ttpolt uppmito i I'H tltt-t'out' with lltt' .-|mt't'tl tixotl oollnr- Hit and W3. -pring: i W" ilttot'tnotlinto a iorl'orntoil log: l"? of tho hoatting ttlit amt a littoral pin I tt|mlt tho t'ollat' I09 lixod-npon tho forward portion of tlto t'ml I02 e-ort'oa to \lt'ltlltlllly maintain tho ltNl in t'ott'artotl hosition with its lixoil l t'tllltlt ltt-t rooting against tho t'ortt'ard fuoo of tho houritng ltltl. amt tho nipping amt ontting llllltll'tl in mlt'mtoo or upot'at'it'o po-ition. .\.t1tol\-shaft lttt montttod iii a houringg hrm-ltot llt. tixod to tho hraoltot-urtn. rnrrioo at its forward otul' a rigid littoral arm lttt'apon whi -h in pirota'llr mom'ttod in tttottttrt ol'tho M'l't'W ttil tho tln'ttr-t-plato llt y'iohlinaLr maintainod in nortnal alinotoon-t witlt said arm hy tnoanof a spring l't-i aml a ntop-st-row tlti. 'lho position of tho urtn llz'npon its l'nt'lt-sltnft is htttlt that. ill tho initial position of tho work-holdor, tho odgo oflthe thrnst-plato tit root upon tho ttltlt of the rod I02. hut an tho rlatnp tttotoa forward in tho ain-him of tho tin-it ttiqlo of the lntttottholo. tlto ond of= tho rod 102 pan-on tho tht'ttst-plnto ll-t \llit'll son to in hohitul it. so that upon thoroturn of tlio rlatnp with tho rod I02. tho luttor i dorontinmu its roturn. thorohy slowly turning: tho tttttt'l' rm-k-shalt tttl nml oponing tho nipping tlot'ioo to roloaoo tho thromlo uippod at tho and of tho |)t't'\'iotts silt-hing opt-ration to onalilo thont to ho sti'tHn-d into tho goods in tho tinal barring opt-ration.

'l'ho t-m'k-slmt't is provide-d upon its roarward otul with u lutoral at'tn ll? having an axially yiolding stud HS ada )lt'tl to ongugo tho to i of tho log it" oat-riot by tho oollar 120 o) tho plnngor-rod tJl moontod' in tho utop-lorot' I22 and nornmlly t'orood npwordly hy meutm of tho Ptlfl'lllfl I23 in mmtaot with tho stamping otnn lift \vlion tlto otop-loror-ttrl in tin-own into oporntivo rotapletion of a stilt-hing oporation. When the tttop-loror t2. in thrown huokwa'nlly into olpot'tttit'o lt'rtllltm. tho Int! lttl first forces t to ntml -l H tmokwat-dly. hot tho d reunion of tho plonaor-rml [2t hy tho cam '24 ourriott the oollar t downwardly aufllciently to permit the aim] tltt to unap oi/or the top rod it!" on its upper and enters t te utatttt non-h in tho Htttpptt"! mun 194 eaueee the thorohy tilting tho arm It! and corrot indin zly hlti'tltt tho arm H2 with its t n'ttutpinto it t. wliioh pot'mitu tho rotraotion of tho rod that midor tho notion of itii spring too. thtm'throwing tho outtin g and nipping hniros. t t and 9-! forwardlv to snooos troly lltlttl sou.- tlto ttootllo and litll'llllFllll't'tttlH.

forwardly in starting tho machine, the lug;

lit) itllr t'tt'gittzt'tl' from tho stud l-ltl, atttl'th't arm lti'i oansod to do-ooml nndor tho ection of tho -pritng I257 ootmooting its-outer otnl with a pin t-Jtt upon tho stopping lever, tltltn doprowin z tho arm H2 and causing the odgo of tho thrust-plate [It to rest upon the rod I"! of th throad-ontting tit-rice, Ill bel'oro dokoritml. .u-t ltofot'o indicated, the out ondof tho llIt'ttltltare held within the nipping ilorioo until the atitohing of the 'stt'ttlltl altlt' of tho vmoooodim: buttonhole lute hoon .ootmm-nood. whon tho cutting and iii ping hlados aro" rudtntlly retracted to tiie sitlo of tho -titohmg apo'rtnre in tho clampin toot until tho tutttonhoto in finlnited, whon tho omitting and iii iping opt-ration is I'opoutotl naln'l'ol'o tloflt't'i K'tl.

lho t'm-lt-ohut't it" has llxod to its forward oml port ion h moons of tho htutl-ttcrcw I27 tho huh 128 of a hoot arm 120 having a forkod torwurd ond I30 adaptod to ombrnce tho spin-rival orank-pin 131 ourriod by the oporaliu ornnkotrnt 84 of the tension rell'llttltiflt t'Vl t'n it will thin-t he mu that the rooking of tho shaft lttt an dostrihttl not only onus-oi tho uotuatiou of the throttd-cutting amt nipping dot'ioos, hut sopnrtttca the tt'ltsitilt-tlisks 8H and'disongu the detent ntomhor 7N from tho manor-plat: 52 to parmit tho )ttt'i'lltlltltl guiding linger toretttrn to ltllllllt position proparatory to the stitchinjz of tho first sltlt of a uoooooding buttonholo. in prat-tit'o. tho ])t\l'l-& are tuned that. tho throml-onttor in artnatod slightly in ad- \anoo of tho rotnrn of tho part-thread guide to initial iositiomwhirh insnros the seizure of tho utr -'throad mljnoont tho yieldiugjnw. "7 of t to nipping dorioo. 'lho blades 91 end hti nro in irm-tn-o nntde snltioiontly thin to Intro a slit: it npring. m as not to ornnh either tho noodlo-thrtaut or tho purl-thread against.

thoir roapootiro tixod nipping ptwl tn the nipping operation.

li'lttttl the -fttt't'i50llt)! donoription it willhe noon that not on in tho ttiiltitillt meohttniam adapted to impart to the oontrolhng thread-guide plural-tango movements from ono-to the other extrt-nw potation. but means an provided for returning the t ttlltt' to inttini ponition. It in ohvioon that the cheraotor of tho work will dotonmnt tho number of intortnodiato stages of the guide in it oomplete excurtaon rotn initial pottitinn, and it is equally evident that the direction of retnrn from extreme poet on to initial position in not materleh'nl in the prrttt-nt imttttnre the, npring ttt) seem to retract the guide in the oppeeite-dtrection from that tn whioh tt m moved from initial moition in ntitolnng'tiio first tilde of the l tnttonhole.

'Ihe nniohine repreoented in thentceommnying drawings is provided with the owot' thread-rotting and pail-0t! device mrl-threed man No 886,810, but the name ia not herein deacrl and form no part of the present invention.

Having thna lat lorth the nature of the invention, what we claim herlln ia:--

I. In a aawing machine, the combination with ovaraeamin stitch-fanning mechanism Iii v relative feeding movements in di erent (llrcct . one between the Mitch-forming mechania'm and the work, of a circularly moving Furl-thread guide, aml automatically actng Ineana for moving the same to-and-fro in relation to an illillll iaition in eespcct of the stitch-forming mec amam.

I. In a aewing machine, the combination with overaeaming etitch-formin mechaniar'n including a needle and feet ing mechaniam for sroducing relative feeding movementa in llerent directions between the stitch-forming mechaniem and the work. of a url'thraad guide, means for imparting to aa d lde step-b -step movementa from an lnitia pmition a one side to the other side of aaid needle, and means for returning aaid guide to initial poaition.

4. In a aewtng machine. the combination with overleaming stitch-forming mechan-' ban and work-feeding mechanism for iroduring between the stitch-forming mec mnlam age: the Wtil'lt alternate Iadvance and retatep iy ate (0t ing "movements ans an internaaliatcihlwcll, of a movabhi purl-thread guide. and shifting means whe the name in rauaed to aaanme and rem a partition in advanco ot' the matchforming ochaniam in each direction of teed. and at tho aida thereof intermediate cxtregne itiona relative to tho direction of feed iiii i'ing thodwell in the feeding movement.

It. In a acwiug machine. thc combination with ovoracauiing *atitch-t'orming mechanhint. and feeding mechanism for-moving tho work in different dircctiona n-lalivcly' then, to, of a normally stationary par -thread guide, and means including a plural-stopped cam connected with thc t'ccding mnchnmam for causing the aauato asmunc and maintain positions in advance of tho Mitch-forming mcchaniam mh'itivcto 'tho dircction of ti.- In'a aewing machine 'thc cmuhiaution with overaeaming atitch-i'ormlng moi-haniam, feeding mcchaniam for moving tho work in diflercnt directions relatively thereto, and a stop-motion device for controlhug the oporatiou ot' the Mitch-forming mechanism, of a purl-thrcad guide, meana connected with the feeding mechaniam for causing the aame to assume and maintain poaitrona Ill advance of tho stitch-formic iucchanma relative to tho tiit'ttttittlt of to nndmcana connected with and controlled by the sin -motion device for eti'eetingthe re-- turn 0 said purl-thread guide to initial position at the completion of a stitching operation. Y

7. In a aewgng machine, the combination with overeeemmg stitch-forming mechanism, feeding mechanism including a cam for moving the work in ditl'erent directions relatively thereto, and a atop-motion device controlled bi a connection with said cam in orreating t 0 operation of the stitch-forming Inechaniam, of a purl-thread ide, meano connected with the cam of said E cding mechaniam'ior causing said purl-thread guide toassume and maintain posit-ions in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism relative to the direction of feed, and mains connected with and controlled by thc atop-motion device for etlcctin'g the return of said purl-thread guide to initial position at the cmuplction of n stitching operation.

8.-Ina sewing machine, the combination with ovaracatnint stitch-forming mechanism, and feeding moc anism including a' cam for moving tho work in diflcrent directions relatively thereto. of a purl-thread guide, yieldingly acting mcnna controlled by a pattern cam moving in unison with the cam of said feeding mcdmuimu for cunning and purlthread guide toasaume and maintain positions in advance of tho stitch-forming mochtlllittlll irlativc to the direction of food, and yioldingly uctiu means for returning the purl-thrcad guii e to initial position.

ii. In a sewing machine, the combination with ovoraoamin at itch-forming mechanisnu, and focdiog mechanism for movin the work in dithercut dircctiona mlativoly ticreto. of

vn purl-thread guide, means including a plural-atop ed pattern cnm for causing said parlythrcac guide to assume and maintain positions in advance of tho atltrh-t'ortmn lm'chauimi rclatiw to the, dit'rt'litm of freq ,1

and yiridingly acting nu'amt for returning tho mrl-thrcadguidn to initial |ioaitiou.

it). In a sowing uuichinc, lllt' combination with ovcrm-nlning stitch-forming uuichan'imn alul work fm'ding nu-chnninn conatructcd to iroducc he! wrcn tho stitch-forming tncchunlslu and the work altorualc advnncn and retrograde stcp-lw-ntcp funding movumcnh, and an intrrlucdintc dwell. of a movable thl'cud-guidc. moans including a throestoma-d pattern cam for causing said purlthrea'd guidc to assulno and maintain a pm ltlii ing H \t I I nition in advance of thestitcinformin m chunism relative to and during the ceding tnoventeute and at the side of the atttehforming mechaniam during the dwelltherem. a ll. in a sewing machine, therombinatmn with overseamin stitch-forming mechanism, and feeding mec taniatn for movm the work in ditierent directions relatively t tereto. of n purl-thread ante, a plural-stemmed p atttl tern eatu, a to ower theref r. a ltllr twtl intermediate said follower aml the purlthread guide including an t'lit lhttlllo eonneetiug rod emnprtstng aprtn -preoted tiona. a detent whereby one o the sect ons is of acid cmnteetingrod is detained while the other section is moved to initial ioaition by mid pattern rain. and meana for t iaengaging said detent to permit the thread-guide to return to initial poeition.

it. In a sewing machine. the continuation with ovena'aming stitch-forming mechanism, and feeding nn-ehanimn for moving the work in ditlerent direetiona relativelytlten'to. of a marl-thread guide. a floral-stepped pattern 8| cam. a follower there or. a mntnertion intermediate aaid follower and the purl-thread guide including an extemahle ttlltltt't'llll rod comprising sprtnf-prem-d ttt't'tions. a t eteut whercb one of t to sections of said connectin detained while the other section at moved to initial position by said pattern cam. and automatically-acttng meana for dlaenglging aaid detent to permit thetln-emlgnide to return to initial position. ll 18. In a aewing machine the romhinatmn with overaeaming stitehorming lllt't'llttllittllt. feediw; nteehaniatn for moving the work in di erent directions relatfvely thereto, and a atop-motion device for controlling to the operation of the atitch-f ortning tneehaniatn, of a purl-thread "tie. a plural atepped pattern eam. a fol ower therefor. a tamneetitm intmnediate' uld follower and tlte part-thread guale including an t'Xletttdhlo connecting rod eomprtsm apt-ingpmaaal aectiona, a deteut whe y one of he aertions of aaid mnnecting rod is detained agamat'the aetion of its spring while the other aection is moved to initial poattlon In by said pattern rant, and nteana actuated by said atop-motion device for diaen ging mid dotent to permit the thread-gal e to return to initial poaititm.

14. In a sewing machine the manhination iam and feeding meehaniatn for moving the worit in thflerent directions relatively thereto, of a purl-thread guide, a pluralstepped pattern cam. a ollower therefor.

00 an oscillating carrier for mid threadaide. a connection inttaamaliate t, he ram-lo lower and aanl thread-guide carrier including an extensible connecting rod com prising apl'lltgpreaaad aactiona, a detont w tereby one of mat ,iam and mechaniam for prodncil the aectiona of aaid connecting rod ia dc- O8 tained while the other section is moved to initial ition by acid pattern ram. and means or diaenga ing said detent to'per- It the thread-gui to return to initial poat too.

i5. 1:: a eewing machine. the combination with overaeaming atitchforming niam, and feeding: niam for movin the wort: in dilerent directions relatively t reto, of a purl-thread ide, a pluralatepped pattern cam, a ollower therefor a carrter for said threadtide provided with a toothed ptmon. an oactllatory toothed segment-anemia; witlreaid inion, a connectton mterm late said fol over and the oacillatory toothed segment including an extensible connecting rod comprising springpreaaed sections, a detent ap ii to and cement for maintaining it a one of its extreme poattione. and meana'for diae gin; aaid detent to permit the to return to initial poaition under t e action of the apring of said connecting rod.

ltl ln a bnttonhole sewing machine the etanlnnatimt with stitch-forming mechanbetween the stitch-forming mechanism an the work alternate advance nndret de atop-byetep feeding; movements am intermediate lateral shifting movementa for sparing, the aide ntitchin of a purl-thread fltlldO, and meane inelaung' a pattern-cam or maintaining the aame'tmitioned in advance of the stitch-forming mechanism during the advance and retrograde feeding movements and positioned laterally of anti intermediate ita extnetne positions in relation to the atitchforming meehanimn intermediate the lateral ahifting tnnvetnenln and during the change front advance to retrograde feeding movements.

ii. In a sewing machine. the combination with atiteh-fornnug mechanism including a thread-carryntg needle. mechanism for prodnrtng relative feeding movetncnta between the attteh-fm'ming mechanism and the work in different directions. and, meana for producing relative ogging lnoveenenta between the needle .and the work. of a purl-thread gttide. poaitively arting meane for imparting no thereto plnral-atage movements around the needle, and means inrladtnga apring for returuinr the threadide to ini ia'l politicoln. n a aewlng.machine. the com ilnatlon with atiteh-fornnng mechanism including a tlnead-earry ng needle. merhannan for prodarnai: relative feedmg movetnenta between the at teh-fomning merhantaut andthe. work in ditlerent din-etiona, atnl meana for prodneing relative jogging movements between the needle and the work, of a art-thread tide, positively acting means or impart.- mg thereto plural-stage movententa around tan ill

the needle. an in clu lin a for toturning flu a n mcl-ignic le l: in ifi g rpmithn,

'dehinm means for mounting the movement 0 the thread-guide and "a action 5 0! add spring, and means for dillnp ing laid detaining means.

In testimony whereof, '01:. nipod our mum to thhg npociflcnlinn, in the pmenco of two mlmnbing Wilma.

EI)WJ \RI) BEECIII'IR ALLEN. J01 C. RINGE.

Willis-a r ouu. H. J. Mlnum

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