US1488591A - Eky cokposatiow - Google Patents

Description

A ril 1 1924.

' J. FOSSA BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE F led May 27 1920 9 Sheets-Sheet 1 April 1,1924. I 1,488,591

J. FossA BUTTONHOL-E SEWING MACHINE Fil 27 1920, 9 Sheets-Sheet 2 We 2.65 I

72 Wm #M J. FOSSA BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE A ril 1 1924. 1,488,591

1 File dMay 27. 1920 9 Sheets-Sheet 5 April 1, 1924. 1,488,591

- J. FOSSA BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed May 27. 1920 9 e ts-Sh t 4 @6 298 April 1, 1924. 1,488,591

J. FOSSA BUTTONHOL-E SEWING MACH INE Filed May 27, 1920 9 SheetsSheet 5 April 1, 1924. 1,488,591

J. FOSSA BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

Filed May 27. 1920 9 Sheets-Sheet 6 April 1 1924.-

J. FQSSA BUTTONHOL-E SEWING MACHINE 1920 9 Sheets-Sheet Filed May 27,

April 3 1924. 1,488,591

J. FO$SA BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE Filed Mgy 2'7. 1920 9 SheetsSheei; 9

6 EV M 5 I ffiggniar' Patented Apr. 1, 1924.

JUQEPH FOSSA, O1 DANVEBS, ."LVEASSAU UZ' GURIPORATEUN, E Pl iTEfiSON, Iii E f] J'ARSE l UNITED SI-IUE MACHIN- i, CGEJPGlcMiTIOII 01 NEW JERSEY.

JBUTTONEIoLTt-SEVJING- ll/IAGHIENE.

Application filed may To all whom it may concern:

lie it known that l, dosnri-i Fossil, a citi- Zen of the United States, residing at Dan vers, in the county of i lssex and Eitate of Massa husetts, have invented certain new and usei' l improvements in Buttonhole bewing l acliines; and l do l'iereb' declare the following he a lull, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to louttonhole sewrnachines for making straight buttonhaving barred ends.

The object of the invention is to provide novel and improved means tor siinnltane ously stitching both sides oi the lonttonhole,

and for sewing barring stitches across its ends, and to otherwise improve the con struction and mode of operation of this type of machine whereby the speed of operation and consequently the production of the machine is increased.

The machine in which the preferred form of the invention has been embodied coniprises in general a stitch-forming mecha nism including two vertically reciprocating needles so spaced that one makes its depth stroke on one side of the buttonhole while the other ma es its edge stroke on the op posits side or the buttonhole, a work clamp which is tied in one direction during" the sewing ol one huttonhole and in the opposite direction curing the sewing oi the succeeding huttonhole, mechanism for relative 1y jog ing the work and needles altcrnately form depth and edge stitches on the opposite sides of the huttonhole, a baring mechanism which is inactive during the side sniching, but is actuated at the beginning an at the end of each stitching operation to position and relatively move the work and needles that one of the needles forms compare.tively long barring stitches across the end oi the hi onhole while the other iolv pierces the v ii on its depth strokes and preferably on its edge strokes also, a cutting mechanism for c tting the inattenhole slit, a thread cutter and holder for cutting and holding the needle threads and mechanism for stopping the reciprocation of the needles at the end oi each buttonhole stitching operation.

This machine is illustratco in the accompanyingdrawings in which Fig l is side 27, 1920. Serial lilo. 384,624.

elevat -l of the machine, Fig. 2 an end vs .on looking to the right in Fig. 1, 1g. 1-5 a sectional side elevation, Figs. 1, 5 and detailed sectional views on lines a, and res ectively of Fig. 3, Fig. 7 a

par

ial elevation showing the parts at the sewing point, llig. 8 a sectional end ie v on line 8, Fig. '2', Figs. 9 and'lO sectional plan views on lines 9, T. Fig. 'l is a sectional end View looking toward the left in l and showing the mechanism within tie machine casing. 12 is a sectional side elevation showing the mechanism within the machine casing. Fig. is a sectional plan view of the mecha nisms within the casing. igs. A, l5, l6 and 17 are deta led views of parts of the barring mechanism. Fig. 18 is a sectional plan view showing; the feeding and barring mechanisms. 19 is a horizontal sectional view showing parts of the same mechanisms. Fig. 2a is a detailed section on line 20, Fig. l5). Fig. is a plan view of the work clamp and Fig. 22 is a sectional elevation on line 22, Fig. 21.

in the machine shown, the stitch-forming mechanism comprises two vertically reciproosting needles Q and two cooperating hooks or shuttles a, which take loops from the needles below the work and carry them about the unde --thread bobbins in the usual manner. The needles are secured in a needle bar 6 and are so spaced crosswise of the huttonhole that when one pierces the work at the proper distance f om the huttonholc for a depth stitcn the other will pierce the work at the proper pointior an edge stitch on the opposite side of the buttonhole.

The needle is mounted in a. hearing sleeve 8, secures in the overhanging arm f the machine, and its upper end is connected by a link with a crank 12 carried by the forward end of the shaft (Fig. 8). The ineclai for driving the sewing 14-, and t reciprocating the needle bar, comprises a crank so connected with the shalt, and with driving shalt, that it may l e shifted into the axis of the driving shaft to stop the sewing shalt and loc it in position and may be shifted into position at one side eccentric to the axis of the driving shaft when the sewing shaft is to he again started and driven. As shown the crank 16 is carried on the rear end of a short shaft 18, the forward end of which bearing sleeve 30 mounted for vertical Inovement to shift the crank 16 into and out of the axis of the driving shaft 28. The bearing sleeve is guided in its movements and held rigidly against lateral movements by check pieces 32 rising on opposite sides of the sleeve and fitting between the opposed parallel surfaces of the bearing lugs 34. When the crank 16 is in the axis of the driving shaft, as indicated in Fig. 12, the block 22 rotates idly about the crank and the sewing shaft remains locked in its stopped position. l Jhen the sewing shaft is to he started the bearing 30 is shifted as the slot 24 is approximately in its vertical position and the shaft section l8 brought into alineinent with the driving shaft 28 and the shaft 14. The block 22 and crank iii are thus brought into position eccentric or to one side of the axis of the driving shaft and form a crank connection between the driving and sewing shafts through which the sewing shaft is driven in unison with the driving shaft. The mechanism for thus shifting the hearing sleeve and crank comprises an arm 36 having its lower end pinned to a rock shaft 38, and its upper end connected by a link 40 with the bearing sleeve. The shaft and arm are rocked to start and stop the sewing shaft by cams 42 and formed on a disk 46 and arranged to act alternately upon two arms 48 and 50, the hubs of which surround the shaft 38 on opposite sides of the arm 36 and are connected by a bar 52 which passed through the slotted lower end of the arm. The arms are thus connected to rock the shaft and arm 86 while being to slide on the shaft to bring the cam rolls on the ends of the arms alternately into and out of the paths of the cams 42 and 44. The cam disk 46 is secured to a vertical shaft 54 which is continuously driven from the driving shaft 28 through gearing 5s. The ari'ns 48 and are shifted into and out of the paths of the cams 42 and 44 by an arm 55% secured to a rock shaft and provided at its upper end with shoes 62, engaging an annular groove 64 in the hub of the arm 50. The shaft 60 is rocked tarough a lever 68 secured to the shaft and provided with an arc-shaped surface extending above and below the shaft, which is engaged by the end of a spring-pressed plunger 68 carried in an arm 70, which is secured to a shaft 72. The arm 70 is connected by a link 74 with an operating treadle and is normally held ment with the lever b Y a sorin 80.

i is to be started 25 l l hen the sewing shaft th arm "[0 is swing dew ivxard by depre sion of i" die so that the plunger he lever ((3 below the shaft nii't the arms and tot in l1. the arn'i 70 E downward movement a lug n Sill res lug 84 on the latch it; and discngages the late in the lever es so that the arms as and 50 are shifted toward the right by the spring plunger 68. This il'iOVQll'ltllll of the moves the roll on the end of the lever at out of the path the cam 42, and brings the roll on the 1 the are it inio the path o the cam that the cam rocl' l sh and W3 Q 3 w Oi) ii) EL arm and Z- l m 1m l7 i tillm inlbe the crank 16 int o driving position. vi hen the shaft (it) are thus rocked to start "lit? sewing shaft they are locked in shifted the pos ion by a latch which engage lug fou he hatch is mounted to and is held in engagea spiconnected j (lOilllndlCl fioi'n the 11m itch. Tile latch holt the parts in shifted position against the pressure of the spring pli (38 after the arm it) and the plunger return to normal position upon release of the treadlc, and in ii the St 'wn x ts v \llLvlA time match 1- n v 7) v s n -oni the lug es thus per- J rt v. 4.. a. 1 slliltt is again to be stopped co is disengaged the patl on the i i f s provided with to release tnc a can: pr 226 and rot: feed cln'ch dish which controls the '15; of the sewing shaft and jogging h a spring linger of an arm 244; which 242:6. The rock 5248, which is coni O with an arm 2'52 pronh oi? the latch 86. The h a cam projection t and rocks the soatt Fl -l6 disei a the latch 86 and thus acti e the mocha .ism which stops the 1 no mechanism.

'- 021317 shaft 206 of the hat-ring mechaintcrmittently advanced during the by a spring pressed pawl 256, "i d in a pawl carrying lever 258, and en the teeth of a ratchet m the face of the cam disk pressed stop pawl 262 is also to engo are the teeth of the ratchet prevent reverse movement of the V t so long as the pawls are in active tion to the ratchet wheel. The pawl carrying; lever is oscillated from an eccentric 264-, on shaft 4452,, through an eccentric i the lower end of which is connected to the lever 12). The actuating pawl and ratchet in active relation during the herring nd are in. inactive relation so that 4 r ng mechanism remains at rest dnrside stitching either direction out As shown the are moved into and active relation by movement of the ct wheel E260 lengthwise of the cam 2 I the disk 20% being keyed to the 't. pern'iit snch movemen This mover is etie ed through connection with the couch shining lever 1'72 the movement of the ratchet wheel into active position being Wed by the movement of the lever which stops the feed and the movement out of arcive position being effected lay the move ment of the lever which starts the feed in direction. For this purpose a sleeve 2 PVHlDiT-(l on the end oi the cam shaft (30 ad is c nected with the disk 204- as in,.. i 19. The sleeve connected hv a link 2'70 with one arm oi a lever 272, the other rm 0:? which is connected by the h the clutch shifting lever 172.

$5 and link 270 term a toggle ll 0 neutral position, and which is i on i ithdraw the ratchet wheel from lgeinent with the pawls when the clutch IIQ 162 is moved into engagement with either of the beveled gears 158. When the ratchet wh el is thus disenoa from the pawls the (f it! 1 shaft 206, an the cams carried thereby, me returned to initial position hv a coiled spring; 2743, one end of which is connected to the machine casing and the other end of which is connected to a disk 278, which isconn cted to rotate with the shaft. The disk 39 S278 is provided with a stop lug 280 arranged to engage a stop lug 282 on the machine casinc: and to determine the initial position of the cam sha" The barring mechanism is started "ti-o1 its initial position by the shift- 34? ing of the work feed clutch into neutral position as the work clamp reaches the end of its travel in either direction. At this time the stitch 'o minrg and jogging mechanisms are in action and the end of the lever 208 99 is in the recess 224 of the cam disk 200 so i he mechanism is adjusted for J The first advance movement the h: rins; mechanism lifts the end of i e lever out of the recess 224 so that tile mechanism is immediately positioned for sewing the barring stitches, and thereafter during the continued advance movement of the barring; mechanism the end of the lever rides on the periphery of the mo ca '1 di l; a (l re Infs the jogging mechanism in this The advance movement of ring; mechanism continues and har- ,tches are so 'KIl across the final end of i 254;. on the .isl: 204 engages the finger 24-2 and stops he sewing shatt and jo ing mechanism. i his o curs after the harrin mechanism has cmpleted one halt oi'i'its ad axce moven'ient.

e -hanisin remains in this posiiton. until i s ch forming and jogging mechanisms are started at the beginning of the neat ittonhole making cvcle, when the advance ement ot the harring mechanism is res. 'cd and continues until the cam projecion on the disk F202, swings the lever and thee permits the work feed clutch he shifted into engagement with one of gears 158 to start the feed of the work 7 This movement of the clutch withws the ratchet wheel 260 from the actuatand stop pawls so that the barring l iechanisni is immediately return ed to initial position by the spring 276. As the cam proiecticn 238 operates the lever 198 the cam projection 240 moves the lever 208 laterally so that its end moved the cam disk 13o 200, permitting the lever to swing downward until the linger 212 rests on the periphery of the disk. This immediately shifts the ogging mechanism into position for side stitching during th feed of the work clamp. As the barring cam shait reaches its initial position the recess 22 i registers with the end or the lever 208 so that the lever moves laterally into the recess preparatory to the next forward movement of the barring mechanism.

Since the stitch forming and j ogging mechanisms are stopped after the barring mechanism has completed one half its advance movement the are through which the cam projection 25%- is moved, be" no it strikes the linger 242, should be one half the are through which the cam projection 238 must he moved before it acts upon the roll it, therefore, the barring niechai'iisrn is to he adjusted to Vary the member of barring; sti ches at the ends of the huttonholes relation between the cam projections and 238 must be maintained. Such adjti .ent, therefore, involves a shifting of the cam projection 238 through twice the are that the can. projection is shifted in iuljusting tor dittownumbers of barring stitches. 'lo conveni 1tly secure this adjustn'ient the construction shown has been provided. ln this construc tion the stop disk .278, and the cam disk 200, are secured upon a sleeve 28%: and are connected with the cam shatt by means oi an arm 286 secured to the end ot' the shall: and carrying a spring pin adapted to engage one oi a series of holes E288 in the disk The cam disk 202. loosely mounted on the cam shaft and is connected therewith through a beveled gear 290, engaging a gear mounted on a block 294, so :ured to the shaft, and also engaging a beveled gear sec, secured to the disk 200. l /hen the arm 281; is adjusted and connected to the stop disk the gearing connecting the disks 5200 and 202 looks the disk 202 in 'iosition on the shaft so that all parts rotate together. Assun'iing that the disk 278 a d the parts secured thereto, are held by the spring 276 in lined position with the stop l p 280 in engagement with the stop he; and that the relative positions of the cam disks are to be adjusted to vary the number oi barring; stitches, then the pin is disen aiged from the holes 288 and the arm 2% is turned to adjust the cam disk 204: through the required angle. In making this adjustment the cam shaft- 206 is turned within the sleeve 284i and the beveled r 29.2, riding on the then station ary gear 296, will turn the cam disk 202 and will give the disk an angular movement which is twice that of the shatt and disk 204:, thus maintaining; the proper relation between the cam projections and 2T4. When. the jogging mechanism is shifted tor the sewing of the barring stitches one only of the needles cooperates with its loop-taker to term stitches, while the other needle pierces the work idl durine' its death stroke at J l least. lo secure this result means is pro- '1 .Q i. la .n. 4.1.. j j 1 \ioet- LOl ncventing loo t new cairieo .oy one ol? the needles tron! being taken by its loco-takerv and this means is rendered ac- I i 7 I v I 1 1 two and inactive oy toe ham-mg; lllOUilfllllSlIl in shitting the mechanism.

In the constiaction shown the needle threads are led xm the thread supplies 4 through a thread guide 298, through the tension E300, and throu h thread eyes oi a takeup 302 to thread guide 304, from which they lea l down through holes in th 1 i v? 8 to the needles 1, 2 and 3). mg the barring the thread for the left hand needle is acted upon by a device which takes up the slack in the thread and holds the thread taut as the needle starts its return stroke after carrying;- its loop through the worn so that no loop of needle thread is thrown out by the liplftllt'l movon'ient of the needle to he entered and taken by the loo 'i-taker at. The device thus acts as a loop-robbing device for withholding the needle thread from the loop taker. the contraction shown the thread eontrollii'ig or loop-rohhing device consists of a take-up lever 306 the forward end of which is provided with a thread eye through. which the thread for the left hand needle passes on its way from the thread guide 304 to the upper end of the sleeve 8, and the rear end oil which is connected by a link 5308 with the lower end of the lever 310. The lever is mounted on a shaft 312, and is held normally in engagement with astop 3.14 by a spring 31.6. The hub of the lever is proviiled with a slot engaged by the upper end of an arm secured to a rock shat 820. which is also provided with an arm 322 connected by a link 324: with the arm 220. which raises and lowers the bar 34ioi the jogging mechanism. -ii hen the jog 'ing mechanism is in position for side stitching;- the lever 3th is held idly against the stop 314i and the. loop-rohhing lever 806 has no e lect on the needle thread. v i hen the jogging mechanism is shifted for the barring: the lever e10 moved laterally and its upper end is brought into the path of a cam which is so timed with relation to the reciprocation of the needle bars that it will operate the lever 306 to prevent the thread oi the left hand needle from being taken by the loop-taker 4; dunng that stroke of the needle which corresponds to its depth stroke when side stitching. In the construction shown the cam is mounted on the sewing shaft 14F. so that it acts on the lever 310 during each reciprocation of the needle bar. and prevents the thread from being taken by the loop-taker during; each stroke of the needles. Then the ogging mechanism is re-positioned for side stitching at the end of the barring the lever 310 is moved later- 1n either direcfeed.

anism. as the mech feed

in? m V3 1 d stoppmg mechanism The start tion is completed for again starting the barring mechanism, and means for stopping the barring mechanism while the parts are still in barring relation.

4:. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-fori'ning mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles spaced to simultaneously form a depth stitch on one side and an edge stitch on the opposite side of the buttonhole, jogging mechanism, a rotary feed mechanism for relatively feeding the work alternately in opposite directions, and a barring mechanism for controlling the jogging mechanism, the starting the rotation of the feed mechanism in either direction, and the stopping oi the stitch-forming, jogging and barring mechanisms.

A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, barring mechanism adapted to establish and maintain barring conditions for a pre-determined number of stitch-forming cycles at each end of the feed in either direction, and means for adjusting the barring mechanism to vary said number of cycles.

6. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, barring mechanism, mechanism for actuating the barring mechanism to establish barring relations for a predetermined num ber oi"- stitch-forming cycles at each end of each buttonhole, and means for adjusting the barring mechanism to vary said number ott cycles.

7. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, barring mechanism, mechanism for actuating the barring mechanism in two stages, one the finish of a stitching operation, the other at the beginning of the succeeding stitching operation, and mechanism for re turning the barring mechanism to its initial position after the completion of the second stage.

8. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism, a barring mechanism, means for actuating the barring mechanism in two stages, one at the finish of a stitching operation, and the other at the beginning oi the succeeding stitching ope ation, and mechanism for returnii'ig the barring mechanism to its initial position after the completion of the second stage,

9. it buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching looth sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, mechanism comprising a controlling cam for changing the relation of the parts to sew side or barring stitches. means for stopping the feed in either direction and starting said changing mechanism, and means for stopping said changing mechanism and starting the feed in the opposite direction.

10. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides or" a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, barring mechanism, means controlled by the feed mechanism for starting the earring mechanism, mechanism controlled by the barring mechanism for stopping the sewing, and means for controlling the feed mechanism by the barring mechanism.

11. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles spaced to simultaneously stitch both sides of a buttonhole, work clamp, mechanism for feeding the clamp in opposite directions during the sewing of successive huttonholes, ogging mechanism, barrin mechanism actuated at the beginning and at the end of each stitching operation, means for causing one 01 the needles to idly pierce the work during the barring, and means for cutting the buttonhole slit.

12. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitclrtorming mechanism including two needles and complementary under-thread mechanisms, mechanism acting to reciprocate both needles throughout the sewing ot a barred buttonhole, mechanism for relatively actuating and feeding the stitclntorming mechanism and the work to simultaneously stitch both sides of a buttonhole, and mechanism for relatively actuating them to sew barring stitches across the end of a buttonhole with one needle and its complementary mechanism while withholding from the under-thread mechanism the thread carried through the work by the other needle.

13. A huttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles and cooperating loop-taking d vices below the work, mechanism for relatively feeding and jogging the work and stitchforming mechanism to form depth and edge stitches simultammusly along both sides of the buttonhole and barring stitches across the end of the buttonhole, and means for causing one of the needles to idly pierce the work on its depth stroke during the barrin let. A. buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles and cooperating loop-taking devices below the work, mechanism acting to reciprocate both needles throughout the sewing of a barred buttonhole, mechanism for rela tively feeding and jogging the work and stitch-forming mechanism to form depth and edge stitches simultaneously along both sides of the buttonhole and barring stitches across the end of the buttonhole, and means for preventing the thread of one of the needles from being taken by the loop-taking devices on the'depth stroke of that needle during the barring.

15. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles and cooperating looptaking devices below the work, mechanism acting to reciprocate both needles throughout the sewing of a barred buttonhole, mechanism for relatively feeding and jogging the work and stitch-forming mechanism to form depth and edge stitches simultaneously along both sides of the buttonhole and barring stitches across the end of the buttonhole, and means for preventing the thread of one of the needles from being taken by the loop-taking devices on each stroke of the needle during the barring. Y

16. A buttonhole sewing machine having,

in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reclprocatmg needles and cooperating loop-taking devices below the work, mechanism acting to reciprocate both needles throughout the sewing of a barred buttonhole, mechanism for relatively feeding and jogging the work and stitch-forming mechanism to form depth and edge stitches simultaneously along both sides of the buttonhole and barring stitches across the end of the buttonhole, and a loo robbing device rendered active on the thread of one of the needles during the barring.

17. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles and cooperating loop-taking devices below the work, mechanism acting to reciprocate both needles throughout the sewing of a barred buttonhole, mechanism for relatively feeding and jogging the work and stitch-forming mechanism to form depth and edge stitches simultaneously along both sides of the buttonhole and barring stitches across the end; of the h'utt'onhole,

and a loop-robbing device for one of the needle threads inactive during the side stitching, and means for rendering it active during the barring.

18. A huttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work clamp, a feed screw for feeding the work clamp, .i'nechanism for reversing the screw at the end of the travel of the clamp in either direction, barring mechanism, means for retaining the reversing mechanism in neutral position during the barring, and means for stopping and starting the sewing while the parts are in barring relation.

.19. A buttonholc sewing machine having, in con'ibination, stitchforming meclninism, a work clamp, a feed screw for feeding the work clamp, mechanism for rotating the screw in opposite directions, herring mecha nism, means for stopping the screw and star ng the banking mechanism, means for stopping the sen ng while the parts are still in barring relation, and means controlled by the baring mecl'niinism when restarted for stopping the harr' and starting the screw in the opposite direction.

20. A huttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, st' ich-forming meclmnism, work clamp, a feed screw for feeding the work clamp, and mechanism for reversing the screw operated by the travel of the clamp and controlled by ti 1e barring mccha nism.

21. A huttonholc sewing machine having, in con'ibination, stitclrforming mechanism, a work clamp, feeding mechanism for the clamp, including a reversing clutch, barring mechanism including controlling cams, actuating mechanism therefor, and connections for throwing the actuating mechanism into action in shifting the clutch to neutral position and out of action in shifting the chiitch to start the feed in the opposite direction.

A huttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for siimiltaneonsly stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming HIGClltUTlSHl in opposite directions in sewing successive lasttonholes, a cutter, and mechanism for shifting the cutter from one side of the sewing point to the other at the end of the feed in either direction.

23. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism in opposite directions in sewing successive buttonholes, a cutter, means for i supporting the cutter in fixed relation to the sewing point during the feed, and for shift ing it from one side of the sewing point to the other at the end of the feed in either direction.

24. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, mechanism for relatively feeding the stitchforming mechanism and work in opposite directions during successive buttonhole making cycles, mechanism for relatively actuating them to simultaneously stitch both sides of a buttonhole and to form barring stitches across its end, a cutter, and means for shifting the cutter from one side to the other of the sewing point between successive side stitching operations.

25. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism,

mechanism for relatively feeding the stitchforming mechanism and work in opposite directions during successive buttonhole making cycles, mechanism for relatively actuating them to simultaneously stitch both sides of a buttonhole and to form barring stitches across its end, a cutter, and a support for the cutter mounted to swing about the sewing point to shift the cutter from one side to the other of said point.

26. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch-forming mechanism in opposite directions in sewing successive buttonholes, a cutter, and a sup port for the cutter mounted to swing about the sewing point to shift the cutter from one side to the other of said point.

27. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles, mechanism for relatively feeding the stitch-forming mechanism and work in opposite directions during successive button hole making cycles, and for relatively jogging them to form depth and edge stitches simultaneously along both sides of the buttonhole, a cutter, a support for the cutter, and means for swinging the support from one side to the other of the needles.

28. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, mechanism for relatively feeding the work and stitch-forming mechanism in opposite directions during successive buttonhole making cycles, and means for cutting and holding the needle threads at the end of each stitching opera tion.

29. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including two vertically reciprocating needles for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, mechanism for relatively feeding the Work and stitch-forming mechanism. in opposite directions during successive buttonhole making cycles, and means for cutting the needle threads at the end of each stitching operation and alternately holding them on opposite sidesof the needle path.

30. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a barring mechanism provided with a cam for controlling the stopping of the stitchforming and barring mechanisms, a cam which controls the return of the barring mechanism to initial position, a stop for determining the initial position, and means for simultaneously adjusting the cams in relation to the stop to proportionately vary the barring stitches in each stage of the advance movement of the barring mechanism.

31. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitclrforming mechanism, a barring mechanism provided with a cam for controlling the stopping of the stitch-forming and barring mechanisms, a cam which controls the return of the barring mechanism to initial position, a stop for determining the initial position, and adjusting means for giving the second cam double the adjustment with relation to the stop given to the other cam.

32. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination, stitch forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, cams for changing the relation of the parts to sew side or barring stitches, actuating mechanism therefor, means for rendering said actuating mechanism active upon starting the stitch forming mechanism, inactive after the change from barring to side stitching and again active at the end of the side stitching, and means for stopping the sewing. while the parts are in barring relation.

33. A buttonhole sewing machine having, in combination stitch forming mechanism for simultaneously stitching both sides of a buttonhole, feeding mechanism for relatively moving the work and stitch forming mechanism alternately in opposite directions, barring mechanism comprising a cam for changing the relation of the parts to sew side or barring stitches, actuating mechanism for the cam, means for rendering said actuating mechanism active upon starting the stitch forming mechanism, inactive at the beginning of the side stitching and again active at the end of the side stitching in either direction, and means for

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