US606859A - Collar - Google Patents

Description

No. 606,859. Patented July 5, I898.

' A. D. FENWICK.

COLLAR.

(Application filed July 8, 1897.) (No Model.) 28heets-Sheet I.

flu ,{avlczd'or k v eri 'enww Maw 33 Q2 g g s Patented July 5, I898.

A. D. FENWICK. I

COLLAR.

(Application fileq July 8, 1897.)

2 She e tsS heet 2.

(No Model.)

1 Iiwenior:

,fllbertfl.lnwllck w: noams PETERS co. vHcToLn'HQ. wAsuxNGr UNITED STATEs PATENT OFFICE.

ALBERT D. FENWICK, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA, ASSIGNOR TO THE FENWICK COLLAR AND CUFF MACHINE COMPANY, OF PORTLAND,

MAINE.

COLLAR.

srncrrrcnrroivroimin m of Letters Patent No. 606,859, dated July 5, 1898.

- Application filed July 8, 1897. Serial No. 643,830. (No model.)

T0 at whom it mag concern:

Be-it known that 'I, ALBERT D. FENWIOK, of Philadelphia, county of Philadelphia, and State of Pennsylvania, have invented an Improvement in Collars, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like letters and figures on the drawings representing like parts.

Prior to my invention it has been customary in the manufacture of turn-over collars to first make the top, it presenting a concave or incurved lower edge, and then to unite the said. top to separate disconnected inner and outer plies-of the material to form the band, said band presenting convex or outcurved edges which are united to the concave edges of the top, and. these band-plies having been stitched to the top the band-plies are turned over away from and off from the top, such turning over of the band concealing under the band the stitches which are used to unite the band with the top, and. thereafter the two plies of the band are infolded each at such longer edges and ends and. are then stitched together to complete the band. Great diffu culty is, however, experienced in the manufacture of collars in this old way because of the fact that the concave edge of the top and the convex edge of the band must be sewed together smoothly, they presenting different curves, and. in this sewing one or the otherusually the band material-4s stretched, so

that after the band has been stitched to the top the ends of they band have to be cut 'off' to leave the buttonhole tabs of uniform length from the ends of the top of the collar.

This invention has for its object the production of a novel-turn-over collar and also resides in a novel manner of making a turnover collar.

In this invention the separate plies of material to-be-usedin the formation of the band have their edgesinturned and the band is made and. stitchedtog ether, leaving only a portion of what is to constitute the upper edge of theband open or"unstitched, said edges,

howeveifibeinginturned, and thereafter the completed top with its concave edge is inserted between the plies of the open upper ing.

edge of the band, said plies presenting con vex edges, and. the top and band are united by stitches made through and through both. In this way of making collars very much time is saved, and the junction of the band and top is made more uniform and smooth than heretofore. The top has and presentsacuteangled corners, to make which the infolds at the corners are provided with supplemental infolds.

The particular features in which this in-- vention consists will be hereinafter pointed out in the specification and set forth in the claims at the end thereof.

Figure 1 represents an inner side view of the outer and inner plies of the band. Fig. 2 shows the same turned over, with their inturned edges in contact and locked for stitch- Fig. 3 shows the inner sides of the plies used to form the top of the collar. Fig. 4

.shows the said plies of the top put together and put into the open top space of the band. Fig. 5 shows the inlocked ends of the band supposed to be stitched together. Fig. 6 shows the ends of the band put nearly together preparatory to interlocking them, as in Fig. 5. Fig. 6 is a section through the acute-angled corner of one part of the top of the collar on the line m, Fig. 3, to show the supplementali infold. Fig. 7 is a section through the collar on the dotted line at, Fig. 4. Fig. 8 shows the collar completed.

In the manufacture of my improved collar I take for the band usually three pieces of cloth a, b, and c, a constituting one side of the band and b and c the other side of the band, the part 0 being used chiefly for stiffening and of a coarser material than the parts Ct and b. The parts I] and care laid one 011 the other and thereafter said parts I) and c are treated together as is treated the part a, and. hence I need specifically to describe the treatment of but one of these parts tounderstand. both. For instance, in Fig. 1 the dotted lines show the part I) laid out flat, andthe full lines show the edges of thispart folded in upon itself. These folds are of the essence of my invention, andI willnow describe them.

I first fold inwardly one end of the part I), forming an inturned lip 19, and next I fold inwardly the lower edge of the part 11, leaving completed, and therein it will be seen that the a long lip 11 and next I fold over the upper edge of the band, leaving a lip b and thereafter I fold over the opposite end of the band, leaving a lip Z)". These overturned edges inclose the stiffening-strip c of the band. Taking the other part a of the band the lip a is first turned in and then the edge a and there after the edge a and, finally, the end a. New turning the part a, having its edges folded over, as described, upwardly from the position Fig. 1 onto the part b c, the lip a is put into the space between the corners 2 2 and the inturned lip Z), while the lip b is put into the space between the corners 3 3 and the inturned lip a. In folding this band one part of the band will have a mark, as a. This mark designates unerringly the point at which the stitching shall be commenced to unite the two or more plies of the band. Now let it be assumed that this band is put under the presser-foot and the machine is started. The stitching will start at the point a and will be carried on to the corner 4, thence to the corner 5, thence along the lower edge of the band to the corner (3, and thence to the corner 7, when the machine will be stopped, the band will be removed, and the stitched band will be turned ever end for end to bring the point a again under the needle in position to again start the stitching. The band is now in condition to receive within it the top; but I will first describe how the top is made.

Referring to Fig. 3, (1 represents one part of the top and f another part, they containing plies e, chiefly employed for holding the starch or stiffening substance and coming between the parts (Z and f. These pieces of cloth, (1, c, and f, are cut of the proper shape and are put into a machine, and the edges (1 and f are first turned inwardly to form lips and then the edges (Z (Z and f f and there after at the acute-angled corners I make in the edges (Z (Z and f f at said corners a supplemental fold, as (Z f", such supplemental folds turning in and plaiting, as it were, the ends of the overturned portions (Z (Z and f f so that they will not project beyond the edge of the collar. In this condition the top part (Z of the collar may be turned downwardly from Fig. 3 over upon the part c f, the overturned portions lying together, and such portions,laid one directly upon the other,will then be placed in between the open upper edge of the two or other plies of the band, one end of the top part being pushed against the stitches which were commenced at the point a of the band when the band was made. In this condition the machine will be again started and the stitching will be carried on from the point a to the corner 7, the stitches being made through and through the band, and thus uniting the top to the band and also uniting the upper part of the band from the end of the top part to the corner 7.

The sectional View, Fig. 7, shows the collar top part and the band are united by a line of through-and-through stitches, as 71 The top part may be made of two or any number of plies, and in Fig. 7 I have shown four plies, and these are stitched together on three edges, as indicated by dotted lines in Figs. i, '7, and 8.

Referring to Fig. (i, the ends of the two parts of the band are shown as put nearly together and the part a" will be put into the space between the corners 2, and thereafter the said edges will be stitched together closely, leaving them interlocked, as best shown in Fig. 5.

By marking the band at 0. and starting the stitching at that point the operator is provided with a gage, which may always accurately indicate and define the point at which the end 10 of the top part should fall, in order that said top part should be connected uniformly with the band and equidistant from both ends of the band, the use of said marking and stitching greatly facilitating the making of the collar. By interlocking the ends of the band a much more secure and better collar is made than were the inturned edges of the band laid one on the other, as has commonly been practiced prior to my invention.

Figs. 1 and 2 show clearly the convex upper edge of the band, while Fig. 3 shows clearly the concave lower edge of the top.

' Referring now to Fig. (3", the longer top edge f and the end f are shown inturned, said inturned lip being provided with a supplemental inturn f, such supplemental infold shortening, as it were, the inturned lip f and confining its end within the outer boundary-lines of the edge made by turning over the edge f" and f.

Having fully described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. A band composed of two or more plies, the outer plies constituting the sides of the band being turned inwardly at their longer edges, the said longer edges overlapping at one end of each ply of the band an inturned end, and being overlapped at the other end of each ply of the band by an inturned end, the said assembled plies having at each end an overlapping inturned end inserted into an inturned end of the opposed half of the band which is overlapped bysaid longer edges, both of said plies being stitched together, leaving the ends of the band interlocked one with the other, substantially as described.

2. A band composed of two or more plies, the outer plies constituting the sides of the band being turned inwardly at their longer edges, the said longer edges overlapping at one end of each ply of the band an inturned end, and being overlapped at the other end of each ply of the band by an inturned end, the said band having at each end an overlapping inturned end inserted into an inturned end of the opposed half of the band which is overlapped by the longeredgcs, both of said plies being stitched together,leaving the ends of the band interlocked one with the other, combined with a top inserted into the open upper edge of the band between its ends, and united thereto by stitches, substantially as described.

3. A collar-band comprising two or more plies, each outer ply having its sides and ends infolded and lying fiat, one end fold of each ply lying flat upon the fabric, the side folds lying upon said end folds and the fabric, and the opposite end fold of each ply lying upon the side folds, said respective plies being secured together, substantially as described.

4. A collar-band comprising two or more plies, each outer ply having its sides and ends

Images