US1542678A - Sewed article and method of making same - Google Patents

Description

W. DREIGINAS Filed Jan,

SEWED ARTICLE AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME Ir l June 16,` 1925.

Patented June 16, 1925.

l UNITED `sTATEs 1,542,678 PATENT-OFFICE.

i Y, WALTER DREIGINAS, or BALTIMORE, MARYLAND.

SEWED ARTICLE AND METHOD F MAKING SAME.

VApplication filed January 31, 1924. Serial No. 689,655;

To all/whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, WALTER DREIGINAS, a citizen of the United States, residing at Baltimore, State of Maryland, haveinvented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewed Articles and Methods of Making Same; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description vet() of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

This invention relates to sewed articles and methods of making same. For convenience,=the invention will be illustrated and described as used in connection with coats or similar articles of apparel, but it is to be understood that the invention may be used with other articles ofapparel and when reference is' made to coats throughout the specification and claims it is to be understood that this term broadly 'includes other' articles of apparel of a similarnature.

To satisfy the demand of the trade or for otherreasons, articles of apparel, such as coats, for example, are often made vwith only a partial lining, leaving part of the insideof the coat bare or uncovered with lining material. When such unlined coats are provided with pockets ofthe type having a pocket bag attached tothe inside, a covering piece'or patchis secured to the inside ofthe coat in such a position as to cover or conceal this pocket bag which, if exposed, would not presenta neat or linished appearance.

Abulging on the outside of the ygarment when `some article is being carried Vin the pocket is in itself objectionable, `but the repeated stretching of the coat material around the pocket, especially the material below the pocket slot or opening, quickly resultsin a permanent outward bulging of the material atthis point and this is especially objectionable. Furthermore, in sewing the patch to the coat material, it is desirable to use machine sewing instead of hand sewing vfor several reasons. In the first place, machine sewing is `much cheaper than hand sewing,

`but another and equally important Lreason n V'tor preferring machine sewing resides in the fact that machine stitches are neater and holdbetter than hand stitches. This last mentionedadvantage ofv the machine sewing becomes all the more material when it is realized that in stitching the patch to :the coat material, the stitches must not gok entirely through thecoat material and show on the outside of the coat because this would, of course, spoil the appearance of the garment. In other words, felling or blindstitching is used to secure the patch to the coat material, therefore, in sewing the Y.patch to thecoat material, it is desirable to use machine felling or blindstitching instead ofvhand felling because machine ,fell-L ing is much cheaper, holds better and looks neater than hand felling. y n y A principalV object of this invention is to form and attach or secure a pocket patch to an article of apparel entirely by automatic machine stitching, the patch being connected to ythe material carrying the ,pocket in such a way that the patchy can move a predetermined distance away from .the material carrying the pocket andthus prevent yto a large extent, if not entirely, the outward bulging of that part of the garment around the pocket when some article is placed in the pocket.

In order to afford a full understanding of the principles underlying the invention without intending thereby to limit the invention to the particular details disclosed, reference will be made to the accompanying drawings which illustrate certain practical einbodiments of the invention.

vIn the drawings. y

F ig.' l is a planview of one form ofr sewed article Vembodying the invention, Y

Fig. 2 is a sectional view taken on the ,line 2 2 of Fig. 2

Fig. 3 is a plan view of another form ,of

`sewed article embodying `the invention,

' Fig. 4i is a sectional view taken on the line 4 4 of'Fig. 3,

Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of either Fig. l or Fig. 3.

Referring to the drawings, 10 indicates a section or piece of cloth or other material forming a part of some article of apparel as, for instance, an overcoat.V 11 indicates a pocket slit or opening provided in the material 10, slit or opening 11 affording' access to the pocket or bag 12 attached to the side of the cloth forming the inside of the coat or other article 0f apparel. Pocket bag 12 is attached to material 10 so that the mouth of the pocket bag is adjacent slit or entrance 11. A pocket flap 13 attached to material 10 may cover the pocket opening 11. This general form of pocket construction is well known and is here illustrated to show one type of pocket with which the invention may be used; but it is `to be understood that the invention can be used with pockets differing specifically in construction from that illustrated. Furthermore, although the invention is particularly adapted for use with overcoat pockets and is shown as used with the pocket of an overccat, it is to be understood'that the invention is not limited to this particular use.

In the manufacture of articles of apparel, such as coats, for instance, the piece of cloth which is to form a part of the finished coat is first provided with the pocket and then the pocket patch is placed over the pocket bag on the inner face of the cloth and is fastened thereto. In the present instance the pocket patch or covering` piece 14 is a quadrangular piece of cloth trapezoidal in shape and of sufficient size to amply cover the pocket bag. Two of the corners of the patch are rounded and the other two corners are left angular. The first step in prepa-ring the pocket patch for attachment to cloth 10 is to provide an extension or fold along one edge of the patch. The specific method of forming or providing this extension may differ within the broad scope of the invention, but in the embodiment illustrated, a separate piece or strip 15 of flexible cloth is sewed along one edge to edge 16 of the patch 14, using a single stitch sewing ma.- chine for this purpose. In the form of the invention shown in Figs. 1 and 2, strip 15 is about 1% inches wide while `in the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4 strip 15 is about 2 inches wide, although it is to be understood that the invention is not limited to these particular dimensions. It might well be stated at this point that in the form shown in Figs. 3 and 4 a wider strip is used because in this form strip 15 is folded or creased to form several folds allowing more expansion or movement of the patch relative to the material carrying the pocket. In this form, the strip 15 is first creased before attaching it to the patch and it is also desirable to sew together the materialof the strip adjacent one of the folds or creases, as at 17 to provide a permanent fold or crease. This sewing to ensure a permanent fold is done before the strip 15 is sewed to the patch.

Y After the strip 15 has been secured to one edge, three edges of the patch, including the edge of the patch to which strip 15 is attached, areV finished with a binding 18. rl`his is preferably done on a piping machine, a machine which automatically folds the binding material and scws it to the material being operated upon. One edge of the patch, in this case edge 19, is left unfinished or unpiped because when thc garment is completed this edge of the patch will be toward the front of the garment and will be covered by the facing strip of the garment. All the edges of patch 14 can be piped when this is desirable. VJ hen piping the edges of patch 14, it is desirable to catch the end or ends of strip 15 under the piping or binding 18.

After the edges of the pocket patch 14 have been finished, the patch is then ready to be attached to the goods carrying the pocket. The patch is first placed over the pocket with edge 16, the `edge carrying the extension strip 15, adjacent the bottom of the pocketand with the strip 15 between the patch and the piece of cloth 10. After the position which the patch is to occupy on the piece of goods 10 has been determined, the exact place is marked, as by chalk, one convenient form of marking comprising a line for the bottom edge 16 of the patch and two marks near the top, one for each side of the patch. IIhe patch is then turned over (approximately with bottom edge 16 of the patch as the axis of turning) to expose eX- tension or bellows strip 15. Strip 15 is then secured or sewed at 20 to cloth 10, preferably by a blind stitch or felling machine, the line of sewing being adjacent the free longitudinal edge of strip 15. Patch 14 is thus connected along one edge by strip 15 to the piece of cloth 10. After the last mentioned sewing operation, the patch is turned back to the position in which it covers pocket 12 and after the final position of the patch has been determined, with the aid of the chalk guide marks, the patch is ready for the final sewing or attaching operation. To prevent displacement of the patch during the sewing operation, I find it convenient to pin or 'otherwise temporarily attach patch 14 to cloth 10 at two or more points before beginning to sew the patch to cloth 10. This final sewing is preferably done on the blind stitch or felling machine. In sewing the three unattached edges or sides (21, 22 and 19) of the patch to the material 10 it is desirable to-start at one corner of the patch, preferably the lower right hand corner as shown in Figs. 1 and 3, and sew all around the edges or sides 21, 22 and 19 of the patch, 23 representing the stitching, thus firmly and tightly securing these edges or sides of the patch to yso the Ymaterial carrying the pocket. -`Before the coat or other article of apparel, of which the `piece of cloth 1() carrying the pocket is a part, is finished, edge or side 19 of the patch is covered by a facing strip and the patch and goods 10 are firmly pressed together.` f

From the foregoing it will be seen that the improved method of forming and attachinga pocket patch embodying this invention obtains the advantages ofthe extensible or bellows-fold connection for the pocket patch and pocket-carrying material and at the same time the patch embodying this invention can be easily and quickly attached by automatic machine stitching ensuring a durable connection and a neat appearance at small expense.

1tk is to be understood that the invention is not limited to the details of construction andy 4procedure hereinbefore disclosed and that a variety of changes can be made without departing from the spirit or scope of the invention. f

lVhat is claimed is:

1. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided with a pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth with the mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece of cloth, and a patch secured to said piece'of cloth and covering said pocket bag, three edges of said patch being'secured directly to said piece of cloth and the other edge of said patch being connected to said piece of cloth so that said edge can move away from the piece of cloth a predetermined distance.

2. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth vprovided with a pocket opening, a pocketbag attached to said piece of cloth with the mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece of cloth, and a patch secured to saidpiece.

of cloth Vand covering said pocket bag, all but one of `the edges of said patchbeing secured directly to said piece ofcloth and the other edge lbeing connected by a. fold or plait to said piece of cloth. f 3. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided with a' pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth ywith themouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said piece of cloth, a patch or covering piece secured to said piece of cloth and covering said pocket bag, all but one of the edges of said patch or covering piece being secured directly to said piece of cloth, the other edge being free, and a cloth strip connecting said piece of cloth and the free edge of said patcher covering piece.

il. A sewed article of apparel comprising a piece of cloth provided with a ocket opening, a pocket bag attached to sai piece of cloth with the mouth of the pocket bag cloth and covering said pocket bag, all of Ythe edgesof said patch excepting the edge adjacent the bottom of said pocket bag being stitched directly to said piece of cloth, the edge adjacent the bottom of the pocket bag being free, and a strip of cloth attached along one longitudinal edge to the free edge of said patch, said strip of cloth being attached to said piece of cloth soy that the strip extends for a short distance substantially parallel to, and between, the patch and the piece of material.

5. A, sewed article of apparel comprising y a piece of cloth provided with a pocket opening, a pocket bag attachedv to said piece ofcloth with the mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pockety opening in 'said piece of cloth, a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering said pocket bag, all of the edges of said patch excepting the edge Fadj acentthe bottom of the pocket bag being stitched Vdirectly to saidvpiece of cloth, the edge of said patch adjacent the bottom of 'the pocket bag being free, and a flexible strip of dili'erent material attached along one edge to said` free edge odi' said patch, said strip of material being attached to said piece of cloth on a line substantially parallel to the line of attachment of the patch edge and strip of material and forming with the patch at least one fold lying between the patch yand the piece of cloth.

6. A sewed article of apparel comprising a. piece of cloth yprovided with a pocket opening, a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth with the mouth of the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening in said ypiece o cloth, a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering said pocket bag, all of the 'edges of said patch excepting the edge adjacent the bottom of the pocket bag being stitched directly to said piece of cloth, the edge of said patch adjacent the bottom of the pocket bag being free, and a comparatively light-weight flexible strip of cloth attached adjacent one longitudinal edge to wsaid free edge of said patch, said strip of cloth secured to said piece of cloth on a line substantially parallel to the line of attachment of said patch and strip of cloth,

said strip of cloth having a plurality of longitudinal folds forming a bellows-fold connection between said patch and piece of cloth, the cloth adjacent at least one fold being sewed together to form Va permanent :told or crease.

7 In an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in said article of apparel, said pocket patch stitched along all but one of its edges directly to a .cloth base, the other edge being connected by a fold or plait to saidy cloth base.

8. In an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in said article of apparel, said poclet patch secured along all but one of its edges directly t0 the cloth forming the article,ithe other edge provided4 with a fold or extension-which is turned `under to lie hidden between the patch and the cloth forming the article of apparel, the end of said fold or extension being secured to said cloth.

9. A sewed article of apparel comprising the combination, with a piece of cloth provided with a pocket opening and a pocket bag attached to said piece of cloth withthe mouth ci the pocket bag adjacent the pocket opening, of a patch secured to said piece of cloth and covering said pocket bag, all but one of theedges of said patch being directly stitched to said piece of cloth, and the other edge being connected by a` folder plait to said piece of cloth, one edge of said'fold 0r plait being stitched to saidpiece of cloth.

l0. in an article of apparel, a pocket patch covering a pocket in said article of apparel, said pocket patch provided with a folded extension at one edge only.

l1. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material con taining the pocket comprising forming an extension or fold along. one edge of the patch, securing the extension orold to the piece of material containing the pocket, and then securing the other edges of thepatch directly to the piece of material containing the pocket.

l2. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material containing the pocket comprising attaching one edge of a strip of cloth along one edge of the patch, securing said strip or" cloth adjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocket, and then sewing the other edges of the patch directly to the piece of material containing the pocket.

13. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material containing the pocket comprising sewing one edge of a strip of cloth to one edge of the patch, sewing said strip ot' cloth adjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocket, folding said strip of cloth so that it is between the patch and the material containing the pocket, and then sewingthe other edges of the patch'directly to the piece of material containing the pocket.

llt. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material containing the pocket comprising attaching one edge of a strip of cloth tov one edge of the patch, attaching said strip of cloth adjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocket on a line adjacent to and substantially parallel to the'bottom of the pocket bag, and then sewing the other edges oil the patch directly to the piece oi material containing the pocket.

l5. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material containing the pocket comprising sewing one edge of a strip of flexible cloth along one edge of the patch, placing the patch on the material containing the pocket so that the patch covers the pocket with the edge of the patch to which the cloth strip is attached adjacent to and substantially parallel to the bottom of the pocket, said strip of cloth being between the patch and the piece of material carrying the pocket, turning the patch over to expose the cloth strip and then sewing said strip adjacent its other edge to the piece of material carrying the pocket, turning the pocket patch over so that it covers the cloth strip and the pocket, and sewing the unattached edges of the patch directly to the material carryingthe pocket. c

16. The method of forming and attaching a pocket patch to the piece of material containing the pocket comprising machine sewing one edge of a strip otcloth along one edge of the patch, machine piping or binding the edges of said patch, attaching by machine felling or blindstitching said strip of cloth adjacent its other edge to the piece of material containing the pocket on a line adjacent to and substantially parallel to the bottomk ofl the pocket bag, and then placing the patch over the pocket and sewing the unattached edges of the patch by machine telling or blindstitching directly to the ma terial containing the pocket.

In testimony whereof I hereunto my signature.

WALTER DREIGINAS.

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