US392635A - powers - Google Patents

Description

(N-oModel.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. F. H. POWERS.

' METHOD OF MAKING SHIRTS.

No. 892,635. Patented Nov. 18, 1888.

WITNESSES: INVENTOR 7% 0% WW/W/ (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

P. H. POWERS. METHOD OF MAKING SHIRTS.

N0. 392,635; Patented NOV. 13, 1888.

WITNESSES INV'ENTOH (No Model.) 3 Sheets-Sheef 3. F. H. POWERS.

METHOD OF MAKING SHIRTS. No. 392,635. Patented Nov. 13, 1888.

INVENTOR WITNESSES Warren Frans Arnnr FFlCEt FRANK H. POWERS, OF PETERSBURG, NEW YORK, ASSIGNOR TO CHARLES \V. REYNOLDS AND DAVID H. KELLYER, BOTH OF SAME PLACE.

METHOD OF MAKENG SHIRTS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 392,635, dated November 13, 1888.

Application filed December 22, 1886. Renewed October 16, 1888. Serial No. 288,283. (No model.)

1'0 all whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, FRANK H. PownRs, of Pctersbu rg, county of Rensselaer, State of New York, have invented new and useful Improvements in Shirts, of which the following is a specification.

My invention relates to improvements in shirts, and has for its object an improved method to simplify the cutting and making of shirts and to increase their wearing qualities and durability.

Myinventionis an improved method of uniting integral yoke and slit pieces to the body of a shirt; and it consists in cutting from the fabric a yoke and placket facing; then arranging this form on the back of the shirt with the outer edge of the slit-piece projecting beyond the edge of the slit in the shirt; then arranging a yoke piece or lining coincident with the edge of the integral yoke and slit-piece and sewing them to the back and neck of the shirt; then cutting from the fabric a second yoke and placket form and arranging it with a yoke-lining on the back of the shirt and securing them to the back and neck; then turning the upper and free parts of the yoke and placket pieces over to the front of the shirt to form the shoulder-pieces or yoke, and then securing them to the shirt-front, as will be hereinafter more fully described, and specifically pointed out in the claim.

Accompanying this specification to form a part of it there are three plates of drawings containing six figures illustrating my invention, with the same designation of parts by letter-reference used in all of them.

Of the illustrations, Figure 1 shows a shirtback containing my improvement. Fig. 2 shows the completed shirt; Fig. 3, a section taken on the line m w of Fig. 1; Fig. 4, a section taken on the line :0 m" of Figs. 1 and 2. Fig. 5 shows a placket or piece cut to form one half of the yoke and the outer facing of the slit-overlap; and Fig. 6 shows a placketpiece cut to form another half of the yoke, the outer facing of the underlap, and the inner facing of the slit-overlap.

The several parts of the shirt thus illustrated are designated by letter-reference, with their form and method of connection described as follows:

The letter S designates the shirt, 1) its front, and If its back; V, the back slit; N, the neckopening; D, the sleeves, and B the bosom.

The letter P indicates a placket cut from the fabric to have the. form Y of half of the yoke, and also the strip form 19 to form the outer facing of the slitoverlap, and the tabend stay T below the slit-bottom.

The letter designates another placket or piece that is cut from the fabric to have the form Y of half of the yoke and the strip form with the latter having sufficient length to form, when attached, the outer facing of the underlap U and the inner facing of the overlap O of the slit V when said strip-form part of the placket l is folded transversely at m. These several parts are connected as follows: The placket-piece P is on its exterior curved line, C, sewed to the shirt-back at a, and at a" on its vertical edge is also sewed to the shirt body so as to project beyond the edge of the slit V and form the overlap O, and is also sewed to the shirt at the tab end T, as indicated at a The yoke-form part Y of the placket P is attached to the neckband N at its inner side edge, and at its outer side edge is secured in the sleeve-seam d. This yoke-form part Y is folded longitudinally at f and turned over and down and joined to the shirt-front by the seam a and to the bosom outer edge at a The placket-piece P is on its outer curved edge, 0 sewed to the shirt-back at 6 to the shirt-front at a in the sleeve-seam at (P, and on its inner and outer vertical edges to the ad jacent side of the slit V to the extent of the length of the latter, thus forming an outer facing for the underlap U, and then from where transversely folded at m it is turned up and upon its edges sewed to the overlap O to form an inner facing therefor.

The letter F designates an interior yokefacing that is attached to the shirt-front by the same seam which connects the yoke parts thereto.

As thus made, the yoke and back stay at each side of the neckband back slit are made in one piece, and the seams which usually 00 our in the top of the shirt are omitted. This gives a better finish to the shirt thereat and does away with a top yoke-seam, and by reducing the number of pieces the shirt is more easily made.

I am aware that a yoke and stay for the back slit are old and well-known parts of shirts, and I make no claim to them apart from my improved method of cutting the fabric in a form to make them in continuity at each side of the hand back slit and their attachment as thus cut.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, 1s

The method herein described of uniting integral yoke and slit pieces to the body and neck of a shirt, which consists in cutting from the fabric the yoke and placket facing P of the form shown; then arranging it on the back of the shirt with the outer edge of the slit-piece projecting beyond the edge of the slit; then arranging the yoke-piece F with its back edge to coincide with the lower edge-piece, P; then 25 securing the yoke F and the form P to the back and neckband of the shirt by a line of stitches along their meeting edges, the inner edge of the slit-piece, and the slit-edge; then cutting from the fabric the yoke and placket form I; then arranging the yoke F and form 30 P 011 the back of the shirt, as shown; then securing them to the back and neckband of the shirt by a line of stitches along the meeting edges and through the vertical edges of the form Piwith the lower portion of the slit-piece 3 5 turned up and secured to the overlap of the form P; then turning the upper and free parts of the forms 1? P and yoke F over to meet the edges of the front of the body of the shirt to form the shoulder-pieces or yoke, and then se- 0 curing them to the body in front by lines of stitches through the meeting edges of the several parts, substantially as described.

Signed at Troy, New York, this 29th day of April, 1886, and in the presence of the two 5

Images