US252277A - turnee - Google Patents

Description

(Nd Model.) u

No. 252,277. M

ffy-1 1. -P. TURNER.

CUFP.

Patented Jan. 10,1882.

narran @rares ller-nur arios,

sans e. runnen, 'or freer, new renie, Assieuon To A.. CLARK FELLoWs e lor SAME runen. i

srncrnrcnrron forming pari of Leiters .Patent No. 252,277, dated January 1o, ieee.

Application tiled August 1.2, 1881. r(No model.)

To all whom it may concern: l whereby the crease will be turned in, leaving Be it known Vthat I, ISAAC YP. TURNER, a the line of seam alone visible, thus givinga citizenof the United States, residing at Troy, plane facing to `the cuff. f *in the county of Rensselaer land State ofNew With a view' of obviating such defect (le- 5 York, have invented new and useful Improvetachable cuffs have been made Iwith afront or 55 ments in Cuffs, of which the following is a faceormed ofone piece of fabric and a back specification. i ol' two separate pieces, each folded in the mid- This invention relates to that class of ladie, and with this double back stitched to the dies or gentlemens wear known as false front along all the outer edges with or withxo or detachable cuffs. f

ln4 the ordinary Way of making these cuil's then turned right side out through the long` the fabric is out in the desired shape, and of open space between the two lapped folded as many thicknesses as required, one of such edges of the two pieces of theback, and the. thicknesses or pieces forming the face, one the turuedcuif afterward closed by stitching the 15 facing, and the remaining piece or pieces the 'lapped parts of the two pieces of the double 65 interliningz These pieces are placed together back to the other thickness or thicknesses of with the face and the facing pieces wrongside the cuff; but in a cuff of such construction theA fout, aniLruiLorcoarsely -stitchedftogether --stitehes"-pass through the front or face of the around three of the edges, and then turned cuff, as well as through its hack along the lapout a thicknessof intcrlining, and the cuff 6oy 2o right side out through the open oriunstitched ping edges of the two parts of thelatter, so 7o edge`,which is usually designa-ted as the .clos that there willbe one or more rows of stitches ing edge.2 This closing edge is -then folded along the face of thec'uif; also, a cui' so coninward and stitched, which.. operation closes structed cannot be iliade with only 'two thickthe culi', but in'cut's thus made great care nesses of fabric, and'must'necessaiily be made `25 must be-exercised in turning in the closing ot'at least three thicknesses, and the inner 75'` edge of the' cuff and skilled workmen emthicknesses of the double back,which serves ployed yto perform the operation, otherwise as an interlining, is necessarily of the same there will be a slack or fullness in the facing fine, thin, and expensivffabric that constiafter the eu has been turned and finished, tutes the outer surface of the back, whereas 3o whereby the fahricwill' invariably wrinkle in a much thicker, stiffer, a'ud cheaper fabric is i8o laundrying.' Again, a cuff has been made of 'generally desirable for the intexlining of cuffs.

seven al thicknesses of woven fabric, of which ln another instance the thicknesses ofthe c ui" the back or front ofthe cud is formed of one have been cut of di'erent sizes and run, and l piece and thickness, having therein a plait in then held up while stitching, which operation 35 which is formed Aa slit. The cuff after heini: involves skill and care, and, moreover, a` thick- 8,5

v'run all round isturned right side out through4 ness is sometimes left nnstitched.

this slit, and the plait afterward stitched to a Itis the object of the present inven'tiomto' the other thickness or thicknesses ofthe-cuff. take up such slack or fullness of the cuiifinan .i This cuil', however, presents sonic disadvan. entirely novel manner, and to such end I form 4o' tages 1in its manufacture, since in turning the a crease or creases and as eam orseams along 9o plait will usually loose its line of fold, and Vthe facing before the cui is turned, whereby i 4hence refolding is required." There will also be sulicient material will be taken up to takeup a line of fold outside ofthe culi', which, when all fullness after the c uif has been turned, as stitching the plait after turning, will not be hereiiiafterdescribed and illustrated in ,stl'ie ae- 4 5 stitched down, it not being .practicable to run companying drawings, in which?- 1 the line of stitching too near .the edge of the 'Figure 1 represents the facing side of altiufold. Y ished culi' niade'in accordance ivithmyinvenf Y It will he seen hereinafter that inthel manntiou. A Fig. 2 is an enlargedtrans'erse section f facture of cuffs according to ,any invention the taken through vthe sameheforeitis 'laundried.` 5o' 'crease and seam are compiedhefore turning, Fig, 3 illustrates `the it has been run and before it has been turned, the face and facing in this instance being spread apart so as to form the-seam along the center of the facing.

Fig. et represents a finished culi with rounded facing, which is usually of muslin or other suitable light fabric; and C C, the intermediate pieces, which constitute the intel-linings of the cuff. Tliese pieces' are all cut of equal width,`

and, being superposed with the faceand the facing-pieces wrongside out, are run orcoarsely stitched along their longer or side edges, so as to leave an opening atca'ch end ofthe culi', in order that it may be turned right side out through either one of these openings. Preparatory to thus turning the cuff, however, I form a crease and seam in the facing-piece B of thecuff along a line which is at or about midway ofits longer or side edges, the said creases-nd seam being ma'deby spreading'apart the face and facing-pieces of the cuii, as shown in Fig. 3, and forming a crease, D, along or abontalong the center. of the facing-piece, and then running aline ofstitchin g, d, alittle hack ofthe crease, so as to form the seam cl. After, this crease and seam have been thus formed and stitched and the cu' turned. right side' out through either one of vits end openingsit will be found'that the crease and seam have taken' up suflicient'ofthel material of the facing of the cnf4 to take up all of the slack or fullness whiehwould otherwise occur.

After the cul 'has'been turned right side out itis turned in at its ends and stitched, as usual,

so' as to form'cordcd edges'along its sides and gutter-seams alongits ends. If; however, it is desired "to avoid' these gutter-seams atthe l `endsof the cuii,'and especiallyin cuffs having roundedends, where itis more desirable to have the end edges presentvthe appearance of the side edges, so that a uniform inish will be .obtained along the entire edge of'the cuff, the openings at the ends .of the culi' can be some- 'what enlarged by notching in the facing B, as shown at E, Figs. 4 and 5, pointed pieces F,. cut.l out somewhat'larger than these openings,

beingrun along their outer edge with the cuit', so lthat after turning the latter-right side out these pieces can be brought overto cover the openings, and their diverging-edges bein'g in- Y serted under the ends .of the facing, and the whole then stitched through, as shown in Fig. 4, whereby the 'end edges of the euhc will present the same finish as its side. edges, and the line o f stitching uecessar)Y to secure the pieces VF will simply give an ornamental appearance at the ends ofthe cuff without detractin g from its value.

The depth of the crease or the distance of the seam from the line of the crease will, of course, be determined by the amount of slack or fullnessito be talee-n up, and', if desired,(in-` steadof a central crease, as just described, two

or more of these creases and seams can be formed nearer thcedges of the culi, as showny in Fig. 6.

Cuffs thus made-can be laundried smooth and even without difficulty, and will have none offthe slack or. fullness pertain-ing lto many of the cuffs now made.

The defect-s'incident to the manufacture of cuffs, as heretofore made, with a view toobviating vthe slack orfullness, as stated .in the preamble, are also completely avoided, andthe seam d' shown in Figs. l. ande will onlygap-f pear on the facing B, whichwhen the culi' is worn, constitutes the inner side of the same, since the crease and seam are formed before, the cuff is turned, and hence after it is turned the crease will be on the inner side ofthe facing and the seam on the outer side thereof.

Having thus `described my invention, what I claim isl. The method herein described of-"taking up the slack or. fullness in af-alse or detachable cui?, the same consisting in forming a crease and a seam in the facing between its sid-e edges: afterthe thicknesses composingthe cutflhavc been run togetherand before turning thesame, substantially as. described.v

2." The methodot' taking up the slack or fullness in the back facing of a detachable. cuil', the. same consisting in cuttingl the partsot equal widths, running orv stitching themtogether at'th'e edges of the`said parts after they.

IOO

are laid together wrong side out, then forming Y a crease along the facing-piece betweenits edges and muni-nga seam alongthe said crease, vand finally turning'- the cuff' right side lout stantiallyvas described. l

3. As a new article of mann.r aoture, adetaclif thronghvan opening at either of its ends, sub- 'able cuit: formed-.with a crease ory creases and 3a seam or seams along its facing between -the :side edges ofthe latter, whereby-thelfullness.- or slack of'thefacing is taken up,{and'wlrenl vturned the seam alone will be visible, substantially as described.

In testimony whercoflhave hereuntoset.

my handin the presence of two. subseribingf .-witneSSeS.. l ,t ISAAC P. TURNER Witnesses:

JAMES L. Nonms, J AMES -A'. RU'rHERFoRD.

yws i IIO

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