US20150107616A1

US20150107616A1 - Methods for processing keratinous fibers, and uses thereof

Info

Publication number: US20150107616A1
Application number: US14/385,753
Authority: US
Inventors: Edward Bormashenko; Roman Grynyov; Yelena Bormashenko
Original assignee: Ariel University Research and Development Co Ltd
Current assignee: Ariel University Research and Development Co Ltd
Priority date: 2012-03-22
Filing date: 2013-03-22
Publication date: 2015-04-23
Also published as: WO2013140371A1

Abstract

Disclosed are methods for processing keratinous fibers such as hair that helps bleach the fibers with less damage to the structural integrity thereof. Disclosed is also keratinous fibers such as hair processed therewith and items of manufacture such as wigs manufactured therefrom.

Description

RELATED APPLICATION

The present application gains priority from U.S. Provisional Patent Application No. 61/613,992 filed 22 Mar. 2012, which is included by reference as if fully set-forth herein.

FIELD AND BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The invention, in some embodiments, relates to the field of material science, and more particularly to methods for processing keratinous fibers such as hair that in some embodiments are suitable for the manufacture of wigs.
A wig is a manufactured covering for a part of the body, bearing natural or synthetic hair. Although wigs are usually configured to be worn on a human head, wigs also exist to be worn on other parts of the body or by other organisms (e.g., dogs).
Any suitable hair may be used in manufacturing a wig, but human hair is preferred. In this context it is important to note that the term “hair” includes “fur”.
The preponderance of human hair available for wig manufacture originates from countries such as India, China, Bangladesh, Indonesia and Mongolia so is straight, relatively thick, rough and very dark to black in color. However, for commercial reasons wigs are preferably available in any desired color.
It is therefore necessary to dye natural hair for wig manufacture, typically by oxidation dyeing using an oxidation dye composition.
In a basic environment, 1,4-diaminobenzene from the dye composition is oxidized to yield a quinone. The quinone reacts with a coupler (typically a meta-substituted aniline derivative) from the composition, to give a primary intermediate product. The primary intermediate product is oxidized by an oxidizing agent to yield a dye.
Typically, ammonia from the dye composition provides the basic environment and also “opens” the cuticle of the hair fibers, exposing the melanin-containing cortex to the oxidizing agent.
Typically, hydrogen peroxide in the dye composition is the oxidizing agent that oxidizes the 1,4-diaminobenzene and the primary intermediate product. Additionally, the hydrogen peroxide passes between the cuticle scales opened by the ammonia and oxidizes the melanin in the exposed cortex, thereby bleaching the hair.
As is clear to a person having ordinary skill in the art, the final color of the dyed hair is determined inter alia by the color of the hair after bleaching and the color of the dye. In practical terms, to attain light-colored hair such as blond it is necessary to have only a small amount of unoxidized melanin in the hair.
Accordingly, to attain light-colored hair for use in wig manufacture, it is often necessary to intensively bleach the original hair. Since the original hair is typically very dark, it is often required to use relatively high concentrations of hydrogen peroxide in the oxidation dye composition or to expose the hair to the oxidation dye composition for a relatively long period of time. Alternatively, the original hair is pre-bleached, for example by contact with a hydrogen peroxide solution, and only subsequently dyed as discussed above.
However, both ammonia and hydrogen peroxide, such as in an oxidation dye composition, damage the physical structure of hair. As a result, intensive bleaching damages the structural integrity of the hair, rendering the dyed hair fragile, and in some instances dull and lifeless, reducing the value of a wig manufactured therefrom. It is therefore challenging to manufacture high-quality wigs having light colors such as blond using commonly available very dark hair. More generally, it would be advantageous to bleach hair of its original color under relatively mild conditions (lower concentrations of oxidizing agents and/or shorter exposure time) to achieve a desired color so that the resulting hair has greater structural integrity.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The invention, in some embodiments, relates to methods for processing keratinous fibers (including wool and hair, but especially hair) that help bleach the keratinous fibers with less damage to the structural integrity thereof The invention, in some embodiments, also relates to processed keratinous fibers and items of manufacture such as wigs manufactured therefrom.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the invention, there is provided a method of treating keratinous fibers comprising: exposing keratinous fibers to a plasma.
In some embodiments the method further comprises, prior to the exposing of the keratinous fibers to the plasma, providing the keratinous fibers unattached to an organism.
In some preferred embodiments, the keratinous fibers are hair, especially human hair.
In some embodiments, the method further comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, bleaching the keratinous fibers. In some embodiments, the bleaching comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, contacting the keratinous fibers with an oxidizing agent to oxidize the melanin in the fibers.
In some embodiments, the method further comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, dyeing the keratinous fibers. In some such embodiments, the dyeing includes contacting the keratinous fibers with an oxidation dye composition.
In some embodiments, the method further comprises: manufacturing a wig from the keratinous fibers.
In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma for not less than about 1 second.
In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma for not more than about 60 minutes.
In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma in a chamber including an atmosphere from which the plasma is generated.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises a gas selected from the group of gases consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and neon and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the pressure of the atmosphere in the chamber is not more than 100 Pa.
In some embodiments, the plasma is generated by a radiofrequency field having a frequency of not less than 1 MHz.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the invention, there are also provided keratinous fibers, treated according to the method as described herein including exposure of the keratinous fibers to plasma. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers constitute a lock of hair.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the invention, there is also provided an item of manufacture, comprising the keratinous fibers treated according to the method as described herein including exposure of the keratinous fibers to plasma.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the invention, there is also provided a wig, comprising hair treated according to the method as described herein including exposure of the hair to plasma.
Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the invention pertains. In case of conflict, the specification, including definitions, will take precedence.
As used herein, the term “color of hair” and equivalents also includes also the tone and shade of the hair, for example, as described using the Fischer-Saller scale.
As used herein, the terms “comprising”, “including”, “having” and grammatical variants thereof are to be taken as specifying the stated features, integers, steps or components but do not preclude the addition of one or more additional features, integers, steps, components or groups thereof.
As used herein, the indefinite articles “a” and “an” mean “at least one” or “one or more” unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.
As used herein, when a numerical value is preceded by the term “about”, the term “about” is intended to indicate +/−10%.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES

Some embodiments of the invention are described herein with reference to the accompanying figure. The description, together with the figure, makes apparent to a person having ordinary skill in the art how some embodiments of the invention may be practiced. The figure is for the purpose of illustrative discussion and no attempt is made to show structural details of an embodiment in more detail than is necessary for a fundamental understanding of the invention. For the sake of clarity, some objects depicted in the figure are not to scale.

FIG. 1 is a schematic depiction of the inductively-coupled plasma device used to treat hair with plasma as described herein.

DESCRIPTION OF SOME EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

The invention, in some embodiments, relates to methods for processing keratinous fibers such as hair that help bleach the keratinous fibers with less damage to the structural integrity thereof. The invention, in some embodiments, also relates to processed keratinous fibers and items of manufacture such as wigs manufactured therefrom.
As discussed in the introduction, in the field of wig manufactures there is a need to bleach hair (including fur) that is unattached to an organism to, including bleaching very dark (including black) hair to very light, to allow dyeing the hair to very light colors such as light blond. It is preferred that such bleaching has as minimal effect as possible on the structural integrity of the bleached hair. It has been found that exposing keratinous fibers, such as hair, to plasma increases the susceptibility of the keratinous fibers to bleaching, for example bleaching by contacting the keratinous fibers with an oxidizing agent such as found in an oxidation dye composition.
Thus, according to an aspect of some embodiments of the teachings herein, there is provided a method of treating a keratinous fiber (that is unattached to an organism) such as hair, comprising: exposing keratinous fibers to a plasma, thereby rendering the keratinous fibers susceptible to bleaching and subsequent dyeing. As used herein, by plasma is meant cold plasma, for example inductively coupled plasma, for example generated using a radiofrequency current. As disclosed herein, such exposure to cold plasma does not substantially damage the structural integrity of the keratinous fibers but renders the fibers more susceptible to bleaching and subsequent dyeing than without such exposure to plasma.
Typically, the keratinous fibers are provided unattached to an organism, and then exposed to the plasma as described above. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are human hair and the organism is a human. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are from a non-human mammal, for example, a mammal selected from the group of mammals consisting of equids (e.g., horses and ponies), camelids (camels, llamas, alpacas, vicuna), bovidae (sheep, goat, muskox, cows, yaks, buffalo, bison, muskox), rabbits (e.g., angora rabbits), mink, foxes, bears, dogs, cats, raccoons, opossums, and chinchillas. In this context it is important to note that human hair and fur of animals (such as of rabbits and horses) are considered structurally the same while wool is a keratinous fiber that is more crimped than hair and fur, rendering the wool more elastic, voluminous and susceptible to spinning. In preferred embodiments, the teachings herein are applied to keratinous fibers that are hair (including fur).
In some embodiments, the method further comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, bleaching the keratinous fibers. Any suitable method of bleaching may be used, especially methods known in the art. In some embodiments, the bleaching comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, contacting the keratinous fibers with an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide to oxidize the melanin in the fibers. Suitable methods of bleaching hair using an oxidizing agent are well known in the art of wig manufacture.
In some embodiments, the method further comprises, subsequent to the exposure to plasma, dyeing the keratinous fibers. Any suitable method of dyeing may be employed, especially methods known in the art. Typically, dyeing includes contacting the keratinous fibers exposed to plasma with a dye composition. Any suitable dye composition may be used.
In some embodiments, the dyeing of the keratinous fibers includes contacting the keratinous fibers with an oxidation dye composition. Any suitable oxidation dye composition may be used with any suitable protocol. Suitable methods of dyeing hair, especially using an oxidation dye composition, are well known in the art of wig manufacture.
In some embodiments, the method further comprises, fashioning an item of manufacture from the keratinous fibers, typically subsequent to the bleaching and/or dyeing Any suitable item and any suitable method of manufacture may be used. In some embodiments, the method further comprises, fashioning a wig from the keratinous fibers, typically subsequent to the bleaching and/or dyeing. Any suitable method of fashioning a wig may be used.
In some embodiments, exposure of the keratinous fibers (especially hair) to the plasma in accordance with the teachings herein allows achieving a desired color subsequent to the bleaching and/or the dyeing using a shorter than standard duration bleaching and/or dyeing protocol. In some such embodiments, the keratinous fibers (especially hair) resulting from such a shorter than standard duration protocols are less damaged and/or have greater structural integrity than if bleached and/or dyed using a comparable standard-duration protocols.
Additionally or alternately, in some embodiments, exposure of the keratinous fibers (especially hair) to the plasma in accordance with the teachings herein allows achieving a desired color subsequent to the bleaching and/or dyeing using a bleaching composition or an oxidation dye composition having a less than standard concentration of oxidizer (e.g., hydrogen peroxide). In some such embodiments, the keratinous fibers (especially hair) resulting from the bleaching and/or dyeing with a composition having such a less than standard concentration of oxidizer are less damaged and/or have greater structural integrity than if bleached and/or dyed using a comparable standard composition.
As noted in the introduction, in the art it is known to pre-bleach keratinous fibers such as hair, bleaching in a separate step, and only subsequently dyeing using an oxidation dye or other composition. In some embodiments, exposure of the keratinous fibers (especially hair) to the plasma in accordance with the teachings herein allows achieving a desired color subsequent to the dyeing, where the keratinous fibers (especially hair) are first bleached under more moderate conditions (e.g., lower concentration of oxidizing agent, shorter exposure to oxidizing agent) than otherwise. In some embodiments, exposure of the keratinous fibers (especially hair) to the plasma in accordance with the teachings herein allows achieving a desired color subsequent to the dyeing, without requiring such a pre-bleaching step. In some such embodiments, the keratinous fibers (especially hair) resulting from dyeing without a pre-bleaching step, or where pre-bleaching is performed under more moderate conditions are less damaged and/or have greater structural integrity than if dyed using a comparable standard oxidation dye composition.
Importantly, in the art it is known that some hair (exceptionally dark and/or thick hair) is unsuitable as a raw material to achieve certain colors of wigs, especially lighter-color wigs. As a result of the intensity of bleaching required, the resulting dyed hair is too fragile, dull and/or lifeless to allow manufacture of a high-value or even practical wig. In some embodiments, hair otherwise considered unsuitable for use in the manufacture of light-colored wigs is exposed to plasma in accordance with the teachings herein allows achieving a desired color subsequent to the dyeing where the resulting dyed hair has sufficient structural integrity to be useful.

Frequency

As used noted above, the plasma used in implementing the teachings herein is cold plasma, such as inductively coupled plasma, for example generated using a radiofrequency current, that is to say cold radiofrequency plasma. Any suitable frequency may be used in implementing the teachings herein. In some embodiments, the plasma is generated by a radiofrequency field having a frequency of not less than about 1 MHz, not less than about 2 MHz and even not less than about 4 MHz. In some embodiments, the plasma is generated by a radiofrequency field having a frequency of not more than about 13 MHz.

Duration

The keratinous fibers are exposed to a plasma for any suitable duration. All things being equal, it is currently believed that shorter exposure allows saving in energy used to generate the plasma and allows greater throughput in the manufacturing process. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma for not less than about 1 second. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma for not more than about 60 minutes, not more than about 15 minutes, not more than about 5 minutes, and even not more than about 1 minute.

Atmosphere

In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are exposed to the plasma in a chamber including an atmosphere of gas from which the plasma is generated.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises a gas selected from the group of gases consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and neon and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the atmosphere consists essentially of a gas selected from the group of gases consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and neon and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the atmosphere consists of a gas selected from the group of gases consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and neon and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises oxygen (O₂). In some embodiments, the molar percent of oxygen in the atmosphere is not less than about 0.1%, not less than about 1%, not less than about 5%, not less than about 10% and even not less than about 20% oxygen.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises nitrogen (N₂). In some embodiments, the molar percent of nitrogen in the atmosphere is not less than about 0.1%, not less than about 1%, not less than about 5%, not less than about 10% and even not less than about 20% nitrogen.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises oxygen together with an inert gas (e.g., N₂, Ne, Ar, He or mixtures thereof). In some embodiments, the molar percent of the oxygen and the inert gas together comprises not less than about 5%, not less than about 10%, not less than about 20%, not less than about 40%, not less than about 60%, not less than about 80%, and even not less than about 95% of the atmosphere.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere is dry, and includes less than about 0.1%, less than about 0.05%, less than about 0.02%, less than about 0.01% and even less than about 0.005% molar percent of water.
In some embodiments, the atmosphere comprises an inert gas (e.g., N₂, Ne, Ar, He and mixtures thereof) and includes less than about 0.1% molar percent) of oxygen.
The pressure of the atmosphere in such a chamber is any suitable pressure. In some embodiments, the pressure in such a chamber is not more than about 100 Pa, not more than about 50 Pa, not more than about 20 Pa, not more than about 10Pa and even not more about than 5 Pa.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the teachings herein, there are also provided keratinous fibers, especially hair, treated as described above, that is to say, exposed to plasma as described above, and optionally bleached and/or dyed and/or used in the manufacture of an item of manufacture such as a wig. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers constitute a lock of hair. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are human hair. In some embodiments, the keratinous fibers are from a non-human mammal, for example, a mammal selected from the group of mammals consisting of equids (e.g., horses and ponies), camelids (camels, llamas, alpacas, vicuna), bovidae (sheep, goat, muskox, cows, yaks, buffalo, bison, muskox), rabbits (e.g., angora rabbits), mink, foxes, bears, dogs, cats, raccoons, opossums, and chinchillas.
According to an aspect of some embodiments of the teachings herein, there is also provided an item of manufacture, comprising the keratinous fibers treated according to the method as described herein including exposure of the keratinous fibers to plasma. The item of manufacture may be any item of manufacture, for example an item of manufacture selected from the group consisting of wigs, coats, jackets, and cloth items. In a preferred embodiment, the item of manufacture is a wig (including toupees and merkins).

EXPERIMENTAL

Plasma treatment
A cylindrical inductively-coupled plasma device (PDC-32G by Harrick Plasma, Ithaca, N.Y., USA) schematically depicted in FIG. 1 as device 10.
Device 10 has a 7.62 cm (3″) diameter by 16.51 cm (6.5″) long cylindrical Pyrex chamber 12, a gas inlet port 14 (⅛″ NPT needle valve to qualitatively control gas flow and chamber pressure), a three-way port 16 (⅛″ NPT 3-way valve to quickly switch from bleeding in gas, isolating the chamber, and pumping) and a helical electrode 18 functionally associated with a radiofrequency power source (not depicted). A vacuum pump (PDC-OPD-2 by Harrick Plasma, Ithaca, N.Y., USA, not depicted) was functionally associated with device 10 through port 16 to allow evacuation of the gaseous content of chamber 10.
A lock of 10 cm-long human hair 20 was placed in chamber 12.
Chamber 12 was evacuated using the vacuum pump and then and filled with an atmosphere of ambient air to a final pressure of 1 Pa (10⁵bar).
The radiofrequency power source of the device was activated to generate a 18 W 10 MHz radiofrequency current for 15 seconds, ionizing components of the air in chamber 12 to generate plasma therein.
Subsequently, the treated lock of hair was removed from chamber 12 and visually examined. The appearance of the lock of hair, including the color, was unchanged.
A single strand of hair from the treated lock of hair and an untreated strand of hair were both examined at ×5500 and at ×4000 magnification using a scanning electron microscope (JSM-6510LV by JEOL Ltd., Tokyo, Japan). No difference was seen and both strands looked identical.

Comparative Dyeing

A commercial oxidation dye composition was made by combining equal parts of Professional Majirel 10 Lightest Blond coloring composition with Platinum Nutri-Developpeur peroxide composition (both by L'Oreal SA, Clichy, Hauts-de-Seine, France).
A first, control, lock of black hair of Indian origin provided by a wig manufacturer was dyed in the oxidation dye composition in the usual way, contacting the oxidation dye composition for 40 minutes, found to be the maximal time before the dyed hair became damaged to the point of uselessness.
A second, experimental, lock of identical hair was first exposed to plasma, in accordance with an embodiment of the teachings herein, for 15 seconds as described above using plasma generated from an air atmosphere. Subsequent to the exposure to plasma, the second lock of hair was dyed in the oxidation dye composition as above, contacting the composition for 20 minutes.
The first and second locks of hair were compared and it was seen that the second lock, treated in accordance with an embodiment of the teachings herein, was 4 levels lighter than the first lock despite being in contact with the dye composition for a significantly shorter time. Qualitatively, the second lock of hair was found to be softer and more pleasant to the touch than the first lock of hair.

Pressure of Plasma Treatment

The above experiment is repeated where the pressure in the chamber during plasma treatment is 0.8 Pa, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 40 Pa. The locks of hair treated at the various pressures are found to have substantially the same post-dyeing properties as described above.

Duration of Plasma Treatment

The above experiments are repeated where the power source generating the electric field is activated for 30 seconds, 1 minute, 2 minutes and 5 minutes. The hair treated for 30 seconds and longer are found to have substantially the same post-dyeing properties as the hair treated for 15 seconds as described above.

Rest-Time Between Treatments

The above experiment are repeated where the rest-time between the end of the plasma treatment and contacting the dyeing composition is varied from less than 1 minute to about 1 hour. No difference in results is observed.

Different Plasmas

The above experiments are repeated where the gas in the plasma chamber during treatment is nitrogen, oxygen, neon or argon. The locks of hair treated with such gases are found to have substantially the same post-dyeing properties as the locks hair treated with air plasma described above.
It is appreciated that certain features of the invention, which are, for clarity, described in the context of separate embodiments, may also be provided in combination in a single embodiment. Conversely, various feature is of the invention, which are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or in any suitable subcombination or as suitable in any other described embodiment of the invention. Certain features described in the context of various embodiments are not to be considered essential features of those embodiments, unless the embodiment is inoperative without those elements.
Although the invention has been described in conjunction with specific embodiments thereof, it is evident that many alternatives, modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, it is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variations that fall within the scope of the appended claims.
Citation or identification of any reference in this application shall not be construed as an admission that such reference is available as prior art to the invention.

Claims

1. A method of treating hair comprising: exposing keratinous fibers to a plasma.

2. The method of claim 1, further comprising: prior to said exposing, providing said hair unattached to an organism.

3. The method of claim 1, wherein said hair is human hair.

4. The method of claim 1, further comprising: subsequent to said exposure to plasma, bleaching the hair.

5. The method of claim 1, further comprising: subsequent to said exposure to plasma, dyeing the hair.

6. The method of claim 5, wherein said dyeing includes contacting the hair with an oxidation dye composition.

7. The method of claim 1, further comprising: manufacturing a wig from said hair.

8. The method of claim 1, wherein said hair is exposed to said plasma for not less than about 1 second.

9. The method of claim 1, wherein said hair is exposed to said plasma for not more than about 60 minutes.

10. The method of claim 1, wherein said hair is exposed to said plasma in a chamber including an atmosphere from which said plasma is generated.

11. The method of claim 10, wherein said atmosphere comprises a gas selected from the group of gases consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, argon and neon and mixtures thereof.

12. The method of claim 10, wherein a pressure of said atmosphere in said chamber is not more than 100 Pa.

13. The method of claim 10, wherein said plasma is generated by a radiofrequency field having a frequency of not less than 1 MHz.

14. Hair, treated according to a method of claim 1.

15. (canceled)

16. An item of manufacture, comprising hair of claim 14.

17. (canceled)