US1830147A - Armhole for coats - Google Patents

Description

R. J; WALSHE Ammoma FOR cows iiledAug- 50, 1928 NJ; r

Patented Nov. 3, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE ROBERT JAMES WALSHE,

0F BALTIMORE, MARYLAND, ASSIGNOB TO I... GBJLII INC., 01 BALTIMORE, MARYLAND & BBO.

ABMHOLE FOR COATS Application filed August 80,1928. Serial No. 803,084.

the preferred form which I shall illustrate and describe this lining material contributes formed any function such as I shall herein-.

after describe. The piping of the seams necessitates cording of the armhole, that is, special seaming to hold the piped edges in position so that they will not become displaced and present unsightly ridges on the outside of the garment. This special seaming or cording of the armhole seams has heretofore distinguished a tropical weight coat from the usual tailored garment with lined sleeves. :0 An object of my invention is to produce a summer coat with unlined sleeves but having a plain front armhole, i. e. having the portion of the armhole seam which is visible when the coat is worn, a plain uncorded scam, the

inside of the coat neatly finished without sleeve lining, and each sleeve head supported to avoid the usual unsightly fall of the sleeve from the shoulder seam.

I attain my object by making the usual armhole seam, then pressing this seam open, particularly asto the front and top portion, so that the respective edges are both turned back. The edge of the material forming the sleeve being returned back on itself into the sleeve serves as a support for the sleeve head, and the necessity for cording the top and front of the seam which is the part most conspicuous when the garment is worm, is thus avoided, this method producing a well rounded plain seam shoulder resembling externally the shoulder port-ion of a garment having a lined sleeve, tailored in the usual manner. For a finish both edges of the fabric forming the shoulder and the sleeve respectively are covered with suitable lining material and in as to both surfaces.

to the support of the sleeve head.

My invention is illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which Fig. 1 is a section through the top center of the shoulder in a vertical plane at right angles to the fore and aft plane of the garment. 7

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary front view of the shoulder, the front of the sleeve being drawn aside to expose a normally hidden portion of the armhole seam.

3 is an inside view of the coat showing the armhole and the entire seam connecting the sleeve to the garment.

Fig. 4 is a fragmentary section on the line 4-4 of Fig. 3.

Referring to the drawings, the fabric 1 com osing the sleeve, is connected 'to the fabric 2 composing the shoulder, by means of the seam 3, known as the armhole seam.

As to the portion of the seam at the top and front, the edges 4 of the fabric forming the sleeve and 5 of the fabric forming the armhole are opened, the edge 4 of the sleeve fabric being returned outwardly into the sleeve and the edge 5 of the body fabric being returned inwardly into the body, the two being approximately of the same width. This portion of the seam, i. e. the portion having the edges opened, is then covered with a narrow strip 6 of thin fabric of suitable character. In accordance with the preferred method, one edge 7 of this covering 6 is first laid flat against the top side of the edge portion 4 and sewed to the edge portion 4. of the sleeve fabric 1 by means of a seam 8. The main portion of the strip 6 is then folded over justinside the seam 8 and passed out- .1.

wardly about the edge portion 4 covering it It 15 then extended inwardly toward the inside of the body of the garment and laid flat against the inside surface 13 of edge 5 of the shoulder cloth fornr of sore ing the seam, after which the inturned edge is of the shoulder lining 9, theedgc 15 of canvas 16, the edge 5 of the garment ful.-ric, and the edge 1? of the covering strip 6 for the seam ere sewed together by means of a seam 10 and the said. edges ll, 15, 5 and 17 are then piped or covered by means of piping 11 and the piping is sewed in place, as by means of seam 18.

The remainder of the armhole seam of which the shoulder portion thus described, forms a part, is then piped in the usual munner, the edges 4 and 5 of the hidden portion of the seam being brought together and covered by the same piece of piping 11, forming a continuous piped edge which extends around the entire armhole, and the portion of the seam which is closed and piped, e. at the lower part of the armho turned inwardly and sewed by means of :1 special seam 12, (see Fig. 4), which is pert of the continuous armhole seam 3. This seam gives a corded effect, as at 19, Figs. 2 and 4-.

As a result of following: this method, :1 sleeve having the appearance of the "usual tailored and lined sleeve is produced, all posed portions of the armho e seen" l plain and the garment, though unlined, b.0131 finished in s pleasing manner to the ermhc-le and purticuluriy the armhole seem, all the edges of the armhole seam being in cred and one of the edges 4 thus covered serving as a. suitable support for the sleeve head.

I hereby acknowledge pert of the prior art Letters Patent No. 1,674.572, granted June 19, 1928, to ll'srry J. Rosche, ir. and Who. Schwartz. 'llhe support for the head of the sleeve in the Roselle patent is u. flange for the edge of the body fa. rcerried across the scam and EXCQIUlZlCl into the sleeve. lily claims are not to be construed as reading on this structure, as my invention con ts essentially in turning buck the body fabric on the inside of the seam, and turning out the sleeve fabric inside of the head of the sleeve as the so e and sufficient support therefor. 'ihc covering: material 8 shown in Fi 1 herewith as already stuted is too thin to uhord nnv support, and fulfills the sole function rim}: strip or lining.

R- bile I h vs thus specifically described rlir embodiment of my invention in the best form lcnov." to me at present. nevertheless this sorcilic dcsv iption is for purposes of Eli and not of liinitutiir'in.

i am swore 2: num er of chenuos and morlincstions nor be made in unit-tors f detail without departing from the scope and purview of the in... ion. and it to be understood that l conic While all such changes and lnmlificutit-us as ful fairly withu'i the scope of the back on th sleeve to said body, the edge of the sleeve fabric being cut with a wide turn 0 er or edge. over the top of the armhole, tapering oil to a. narrow turn over or edge to the butt seem at the lower part of the armhole, said wide edge being covered with a fold of lining material and returned upon itself with said covering on the sleeve side of the seam in contact with the inside of the head of the sleeve so as to support the head of the sleeve, and the edge of the body fabric being turned inwardly from the seam forming a continuous inwardly turned fiat flange around the entire armhole.

- The combination described in claim 1, with the additional element of a cover strip of thin material secured on one side within the armhole and, on the other extending over and secured to the returned edge of the sleeve fabric.

3. The combination described in claim 1, with the additional elements of a linin strip of thin material covering the edge on inner face or the returned portion of the sleeve fabric, and. secured across the armhole seam to the body fabric of the coat.

The combination described in claim. 1, having the body fabric of the coat returned iody side of the armhole seam, and on, material Within the armhole covering the cal of both the sleeve fabric and yliic body is ac respectively.

The combination described in claim 1, having it {in shed and covered seam extendconlinur ly around the armhole, with l r l s of the body fabric and the brought together, and piped or 1 in me ordinary manner, but with the upper edges over the top of the shoulder opened out and covered by a separate lining strip of thin material extending around the inside ofthe head of the sleeve.

6. The combination described in claim 1, with the lower or hidden portion of the continuous armhole seam corded under the armhole, and the upper portion provided with an extension lining strip of thin material coveriug and secured to the returned edge of the sleeve fabric over the shoulder.

7. The combination described in claim 1, having shoulder fabric, shoulder stiffening and lining turned inwardly from the armhole seam, lining strip of thin material extending over the shoulder, covering the returned edge of the sleeve fabric, and carried over to the returned edge of the shoulder fabric, and s piping stitched through and forming a cover and finish for the edge of the extenion liner, and the edges of the body fabric, stiffener and lining, completely around the armhole.

In testimony whereof I hereunto affix my sigi'inture.

ROBERT JAMES WALSIIE.

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