US1069086A - Tailor's measure. - Google Patents

Description

P. JOHNSON. TAILOR'S MEASURE. APPLICATION FILED IEB.1Z, 1913.

Patented July 29, 1913.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

COLUMBIA PLANOGRAPH C0-,WASHINGTON, D c.

am of the United PETER JOHNSON, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

TAILOR S MEASURE.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, PETER JOHNSON, a citi- States of America, and residing in the borough of Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State have invented a certain new Tailors Measure, of which a specification.

My invention relates to tailors measures and particularly to measures for coat patterns, the object of my invention being to provide a handy apparatus of this character designed to give a greater degree of accuracy of measurement and to facilitate the location and determination of important points in the construction of a coat pattern.

In the accompanying drawing, Figure l is an elevation of an apparatus embodying my invention in one form; Fig. 2 is a side view of the upper portion thereof; Fig. 3 is a perspective of a detail; Figs. 4 and 5 are edge views of markers; Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic representation of my apparatus applied to a back and in position for use; Fig. 7 shows the same looking from the front of the individual on whom it is applied; Fig. 8 is a similar view looking from the side of the individual; and Fig. 9 is a plan of a pattern showing the manner in which my apparatus is used to determine the cut of the pattern.

The present apparatus in the form shown comprises a flexible main standard 10, preferably made of thin strips of steel united at the upper end by a clip 11, carrying a gripping claw 12 and a swivel pin and strap 13 to which a measuring tape 14 may be sewed. The strips forming the standard 10 are spaced apart by adjustable clips 15 which may be made, as shown in Fig. 3, by folding around a strap of sheet metal in such manner that the ends meet at the center part to form a web 16, thus leaving slicleways 17 through which the steel strips forming the standard pass. A pair of slides 18 and 19 are adjusted at the upper portion of the standard, and a second pair 20 and 21 below the same, the second pair being of somewhat greater length. All the slides are likewise of flexible steel so that they may be bent to conform to the body curves. An elastic strap 22, carried by clip 23, is adjustable upon the standard and is used to strap the standard securely to the back at the waist so that the standard conforms substantially to the contour of the back. Linear measureand Improved the following is Specification of Letters Patent. Application filed February 12, 1913.

neck of New York,

Patented July 29, 1913. Serial No. 748,000.

ment indications are shown upon the standard by which the vertical distances from the to points of adjustment of the slides 18 to 21 may be determined.

The upper slides 1819 are desired to measure not only the vertical distance between the base of the neck and the level of the shoulders, but the height and width of the shoulders as well, and for this purpose they also show lineal measurements and are provided with markers 25, 26, which are horizontally slidable thereon. By reason of the fact that these arms are independently adjustable vertically, measurement may be accurately taken on an unsymmetrical form, (as shown in Fig. 6). The first measurement to be taken with these slides would naturally be the width of the neck, the slides being moved up to the position shown in dotted lines (Fig. 6) so that the markers 25 and 26 may be brought to the opposite sides of the neck. They are then lowered to the position shown in full lines and the markers moved out to indicate the shoulder height, the measurements being independently noted for each side of the body. These may vary not only in height, but also width in an unsymmetrical person, and my apparatus readily adapts itself to such a measurement. The lower slides 20 and 21 are then bent beneath the arms as shown in Fig. 8, where they are held in substantially adjusted position by the lowered arms as shown. Two pairs of markers 27, 28, and 29, 30 are preferably mounted on these slides. The inner pair 27 28 are moved outward to measure the back of the arm-hole. The outer pair of markers 29, 30 are adjusted in front of the arm and measure the distance from the standard 10 to the front of the arm-hole. These markers 29 and 30 which are relatively long, are then moved still farther out on the slides 20, 21 until they reach the point corresponding to the width of the collar as measured from the back b the markers 25, 26, on the slides 18 and 19. This is the neck point of the pattern and its measurement is of extreme importance inasmuch as it enables the pattern cutter to determine with precision Where to place the neck point 00, which, in the finished coat, meets the point 2 at the top of the shoulder seam. This is the point which universally gives the most trouble to pattern cutters, and so far as I am aware no simple apparatus has yet been. devised which enables the pattern maker to determine this point with j accuracy.

The half pattern, Fig. 9, shows the mani nor in which my apparatus is used to guide the pattern cutter in the determination of the outline of the pattern. The standard 10 is first drawn in outline to the curvature which it is desired to give the coat-back. j

The measurement of the width of the neck 1 determines the position of the point 1 measured from the center of the coat-pattern. The measurement for the height and width of the shoulder determines not only the distance of the point a, 7), from the center but also their vertical height. These three measurements are determined for opposite sides of the body by the upper slides and markers. The markers 27, 28 on the lower slides 20, 21 determine the position of the point 0 viz. the back of the arm-hole (Z, while the vertical height of the lower edge e of the latter is determined by the vertical reading of the slide 21 upon the standard 10. The point f at the front of the arm-hole is determined by the markers 29, 30 in their first position, while the distance of the point 00 from the mid-back line is determined by the second position of the markers 29, 30.

It will be obvious from the fact that I provide the tape 14 swiveled atthe central point in the back of the collar that I do not intend to dispense with the usual tape measurements used by a tailor. The present measuring frame is designed to supplement these measurements by determining with accuracy points otherwise diflicult to locate.

Various modifications of the apparatus will readily suggest themselves. Thus it would be possible to obtain all the measurements with a single pair of slides and markers, by manipulating the spacing slips 15 up and down the standard to permit the slides 20, 21 for instance to take up a position corresponding to that occupied in the illustration by the slides 18*19. The particular construction of the standard, slides and markers may be varied in many ways, that shown being merely a simple one which serves to exemplify the invention.

In addition to the value of the apparatus from the standpoint of providing means for attaining accurate pattern measurements, it will commend itself by reason of its ready portability. The clips 15 and slides are all removable from. the standard by simply sliding them oif the lower end. They are reassembled with equal ease. The various markers on the slides are likewise freely rej movable from the slides and the whole apparatus thus disassembled, may be gathered into a compact bundle or box conveniently carried in the hand or satchel. The tape-is sewed to the pivot piece 13, and thus may be readily renewed when worn out. The appa ratus as a whole is thus simply assembled and operated, while at the same time accurate and reliable.

I claim as my invention 1. A tailors measuring frame comprising a flexible standard having means at the upper end for securing the same at the rear of the collar and at the waist to conform the same to the curvature of the back, a pair of independent slides symmetrically arranged on opposite sides of said standard and independently vertically adjustable thereon and markers on said sl des horizontally adjustable for the purpose described.

2. A. tailors measuring frame comprising a flexible standard having means at the up per end for securing the same at the rear of the collar and at the waist to conform the same to the curvature of the back, two pairs of vertically adjustable slides symmetrically arranged on opposite sides of said standard, one of said pairs being normally adjusted at the neck and shoulders when in use, and the other pair being normally adjusted below the arms of the person being fitted, together with markers horizontally adjustable on said slides, substantially as and for the purpose described.

3. A tailors measuring frame comprising a flexible standard having means at the upper end for securing the same at the rear of the collar and at the waist to conform. the same to the curvature of the back, a pair of slides vertically adjustable independently on said standard and adapted to be flexed around the body beneath the arms of the person being fitted, together with markers thereon horizontally adjustable thereon to indicate the distance from. the standard to the neck point at the front of the collar, substantially as described.

4. A tailors measuring frame having a flexible standard and means for securin g the same at the neck and waist to conform to the back contour, said standard comprising flexible steel bands spaced apart to form slideways together with horizontal slides independently vertically adjustable on said standard in said slideways and extending on opposite sides of the standard, substantially as described.

5. A tailors measuring frame having a flexible standard and means for securing the same at the neck and waist to conform to the back contour, said standard comprising flexible steel bands spaced apart to form slideways, horizontal slides independently vertically adjustable on said standard in said slideways and extending on opposite sides of the standard, together with readily removable spacing clips for holding said flexible bands spaced apart, substantially as de scribed.

6. A tailors measuring frame having a flexible standard and means for securing the same at the neck and waist to conform to the back contour, said standard comprising flexi- In testimony whereof I have signed my ble steel bands spaced apart, independent name to this specification, in the presence of 10 slide arms symmetrically arranged on 0 ppotwo subscribing Witnesses.

site sides of said standard and freely adjustable over the end of the latter, together PETER JOHNSON with spacing clips for holding the sides of Vitnesses:

said standard spaced apart, substantially as VALTER ABBE,

described. L. H. GROTE.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents. Washington, D. C.

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